OMG! Biking the Everglades was something else! The first night I slept behind a deserted building and across the street was a closed restaurant with an ICE MACHINE at my disposal. Does it get any better?
Monday morning I got an early start trying to beat the heat. On the road (with my water bottles all iced up!) at 6:45 a.m. Holy smokes! Headwinds!!!!! Pedaling at 5-8 miles an hour for hours and hours under blistering sun on a road that has all the Interstate 75's traffic rerouted onto it because 75 was closed due to smoke and fires. Think LA freeway in rush hour but there's only 2 lanes and impatient people. Finally I came upon the Loop Road, a gravel road "through" the Everglades. Highway 41 goes east and drops south before going east again. The Loop Road goes south, then east, and meets back up with Hwy 41. It was a treat to get out of the wind, the sun, the traffic, and the noise....back into the woods, so to speak. But the road was like a washboard in spots, had loose sand and holes, so I had to bike slowly and watch out, but....in life take the Loop Roads whenever you can. You'll not be disappointed. I saw large birds, white and black, otters playing in a mud hole, and tons and tons of alligators just off the side of the road. I also saw flowering air plants or orchids...not sure which. It was a beautiful ride. The map showed an Education Center about 2/3 down it and I was hoping to get more water there. (Have to always be aware of my water supply.) When I got there it was closed. I also found out that the mileage of the Loop Rd from where I started only counted to the Ed Center. I had another 8 miles to go before getting back to Hwy 41. So what do I do? Stop the next car I see and "yogi" for water. They didn't have water, but the mother offered her ice tea to me. (How sweet of her!) And the dad filled my water bottles with ice from their cooler! Better yet...colder! After sharing my story and the dad saying he hoped that his daughter and granddaughters were inspired by my tales, I biked on.
My plan for the day was to get all the way across the Everglades, but I hadn't counted on the wind. Pump, pump, pump, pump....and on and on into the wind, careful of the cars and trucks.
A stop at an Indian gift store led to my meeting 2 interesting people from Ohio who drove to FL, rented a Harley, and are on their way to Key West. Diana and Joe. We shared stories for a half hour or so, resting from the sun. I love the people!!!!!!!
From there I went down the road just a bit to the Indian tribe's restaurant where I got dinner, charged my batteries, shared stories with the waitress and talked with friends on the phone. At this point I still had about 20 miles to go and did not know where I would find to pitch my tent.
Let me describe the road at this point. On the north was a wide canal. To the south was a bit of mowed grass and dense (very dense) Florida brush. When there was a gap, they only went back in a short ways and the grass was always coarse, bushy, and not tent friendly. Harsh conditions!
So after filling up my bottles with ice and water, off I went about 6 p.m. From the night before, I knew I needed to be off the road by about 7:30 or I needed to put on my lights. (I have a blinking red light for the stern and my headlamp on my helmet for the bow.) Pump, pump, pump, down the road I go. Every pump painful for the crotch chafing that has made my life pretty miserable. I found this road the went south to the power lines and there was an old paved pathway with grass growing through it. Could I bike on this for a while and avoid the winds and traffic? Let's give it a try. So down it I go. There is FL weeds and brush on both sides as well as growing up through the pavement. I'm pedaling along with my iPod on when I see and alligator! OMG! I forgot to watch out for them! What was I thinking to even go down this road? Ahhh! It's dead...and there's another dead one on the other side. Oh boy, I'd better turn off the iPod and listen up! Pump, pump, pump, oh my god, a black snake in my path. I can't stop. I'm going to hit it. It's scrambling, I'm scrambling, chaos, my legs in the air, a sharp pain in my right thigh. I think it leaped up and bit me!
It doesn't seem to hurt enough to be a snake bit, but it sure look like it leaped at me. Did I scrape a bush? I don't know. If I die back here, no one will ever find me. Better make a video telling everyone what happened in case they do find me...dead. Bike on, for a mile and a half....and....dead end. Darn it. Gotta go back. Time wasted on this attempt. Back to the road. Pedal on.
It's getting dark. Put your lights on. There's a restaurant, closed, perhaps I can find a place to camp there. Nope. Fenced, gated, people across the road fishing in the canal. Just now as I write this, I guess I could have pedaled on for a ways, then when it was dark, come back and set up hoping no one would notice me. Not ideal, but an option.
But on I pedaled. Come up with a Plan B. What are you going to do, girl, if you don't find any place and it gets really dark? You can't bike out here. Too dangerous. I decided that when it got really dark, I would turn off my lights, get off my bike, and walk as far to the right as I could. I'd have been about 10' - 15' from the road. And I walk all night if I had to. What else could I do? This was my only fear coming true. Have faith. Something will show up. At least I had a plan.
Then about 8:15 I spotted an RV park. Yippee! I'm sure I can find a place in here to set up! And I did. I met George, a commercial airfreight loader, who was living out there now (since his company cut their budget and no longer put them up in hotels). He offered me his lawn to sleep on, his shower, food, plied me with liquor, offered me the couch to sleep on if I wanted it, and cooked me breakfast this morning. Just when you think things are at their worst, trail angels appear! He was a delight and cute besides. I love the people!!!!!
So this morning after eggs and pancakes, I started on down the road with only 5 miles left to get out of the Everglades. I stopped at a rustic rural store for ice water and info on a possible trail beside a canal that Google Maps was sending me down. I got both. I was also told the Krome Rd, my only other choice, had no shoulder. Ouch!
I got to the canal path and tried it, but the gravel was too rough and loose. Couldn't pedal on that for 20 miles. No way. So Krome Rd it is. God I hope it has a shoulder. Well, it did have a shoulder, but it also had narrow lanes and lots of traffic too. OMG! Tractor trailer trucks went by 3-4 feet off my elbow. Don't waiver. Your job is to keep straight and as far right as you can. Wished I paid more attention to the truck that said "Wide Load".... you know, the lead truck. The wide load almost took me out. I paid closer attention after that.
Bike for a few miles then find some shade. Cool down, get water, rest. Start again. I found that my large water bottle stored down in my black pannier actually stayed coldest the longest. Most of the day. Ice water never tasted so good. One stop was at a fruit and veggie stand. Madeleine picked me out a nice ripe mango and chatted me up. Then when 2 people ordered strawberry shakes, she gave me the leftovers that didn't fit in their glasses. Mmmmm good! Made with strawberries (fresh), milk, sugar, and ice. The real thing.
So on I trucked in to Homestead, FL. I never felt so relieved to be back in civilization in my life. The road got wider. The trucks disappeared. I could breathe easy again.
And then I got to my hostel for the night. Everglades International Hostel in Florida City is just the cutest, funkiest place on this earth! The internal court yard has outdoor rooms, an outdoor shower, outdoor kitchen, a gazebo, and a newly installed rock pool with a waterfall to stroll through. (I saved that for tomorrow. The shower came first.) This place is so cool, I'm afraid it may have Key West beat. I have decided to stay an extra night so that I can zero here tomorrow and enjoy the people and ambiance.
Life is good. I feel like I have new friends everywhere! This bike touring is more fun than I even imagined. And I don't think I'd want to do it any way but alone. I can do anything I want, when I want. And I meet more people alone.
I think I've found the life. Just no more Highway 41's, please.
Loving the life, Bag Lady/Kathryn
