Tuesday, May 7, 2013

A Whole Different Day

May 7,2013
Rawara Beach DoC Campsite, NZ

A beautiful sunny day. After the storms of yesterday, it feels amazing. Still glad I saw Cape Reinga at the peak of its passion. The energy if it, the amazing-ness of it, and the fact that not one photo captures that makes me hold it near and dear.

Somewhere yesterday in the multiple times Blaze was hoisted on and off Nick's truck, I lost my temperamental bike computer. Oh well. Gonna be a lot of guessing this next month as to distances gone and distances to go. I've cycled about 3000 miles in NZ. The computer was good at keeping track (when it wasn't sitting at 0). Guess we'll both be ready for a rest when we get home. But before then, I've got another month here:)))). And lots of slow days to pedal and beaches to sit on...between raindrops.

But no rain this afternoon. Blue skies! Not a cloud! And I'm at an isolated campground on a stream with a quick walk to the beach. Alone. So why am I spending it chatting with you folks?


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Te Rerenga Wairua...oh my! Oh my!

May 6, 2013
Te Rerenga Wairua, NZ

Three months to the day after leaving Wellington, I cycled up the hill to Cape Renga. The Maori name is Te Rerenga Wairua. And what a memorable, incredibly incredible, crazy, blustery day it was!!!

I met Nick, the Dept of Conservation Ranger, first thing this morning...and our paths crossed all day long. I hate to think where I'd be sleeping tonight if he hadn't saved my ass. How about the toilets at the lighthouse in all probability.

After he stopped and told me I was not allowed to camp where I spent the night, but no worries, he pulled up next to me while I was reading the info boards about the reserve up here on the tip. That was about 5 kms in of the 21 I needed to cycle to the lighthouse at the very top of the North Island. My plan was to cycle up there and stay the night legally camped at a DoC campsight on the beach. Many people have mentioned how beautiful it is. Where Nick pulled up was the car park for some large sand dunes. How's the road down to the dunes? I ask. Any steep gravel hills? Yup. Wanta a lift? I'm going down there now. Sweet as!



Quite spectacular...yes!

Then, after eating my breakfast in the DoC maintenance barn because it was windy and rainy outside, I pedaled on. Nick offered to drive me out but stopped himself saying "you probably want to bike it, huh?" Yes I do!

Thank goodness he didn't tell me about the hills, so I could be surprised. There were a lot of them. And they were fairly steep. Every time I saw the next one from the top of the one I just climbed, I laughed. Of course! But the weather was my biggest challenge. The wind gusts were so strong I had to just sit still and hold the brakes with both hands not to he blown away. At one point, they were so strong tge blew me 100 meters backwards up the hill when I let off the brakes. Most of the time I was able to use my umbrella shelter trick. Until the last hill. Then it was blowing too hard to hold up the umbrella so I just pedaled and hot soaked. Luckily I had just talked with Nick, and since the campsite was down too steep a gravel road and the weather was blustery I accepted his offer of a lift somewhere south. But first, the lighthouse.

When I finally got up to the car park I was soaked to the bone. It was gusting (over 100 mph, I heard in the news...weather so bad they closed the Auckland airport) and raining sideways. Needless to say, barely a view. The water was so choppy...woo, what a storm! When Nick arrived, he gave me a lift down to the lighthouse and the point which is a bit of a walk.
This point is very sacred in Maori culture. They believe the spirits of the recently deceased travel up the island and leave off the point to their permanent home. You can also throw off any unwanted "stuff" while you're there. Nick and I did a little ceremony. The wind was whipping! The waves were crashing! It was an amazing moment!!! So dramatic! So moving!








And tonight I'm back at the campground across from which I stayed last night. I'm the only one here. Not even the owners are here. But I got a shower and a place to get inside if I want. But of course, I'm in my tent.

The day was so unexpected yet just perfect! I'll have to come back here when the weather's better so I can do some of the walks along the coast. But for now just having biked here under my own power over hill after hill and through major winds and rain feels like quite an accomplishment. I'll sleep well.

Now I turn south and check out the east coast, the Bay of Plenty, and the other treasures of the Northland on my way back to Auckland.

Thank you New Zealand for showing me another side of your amazing land.

BagLady


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Weather!

May 5, 2013
20 kms south of Cape Reinga (the northern most point of NZ)



The word for the day is weather. Actually that's the topic for yesterday and today. We've all heard the saying "if you don't like the weather, wait a minute...it'll change". Today that was literal! It would be dry, sunny, breezy then...wham! Major gusts of wind and hail-like rain would be pelting me painfully. I learned at the first sign of a sprinkle to get the umbrella opened. When the winds picked up and the skies opened, it was my only shelter. I'd stop pedaling, face the umbrella into the wind, pull up my legs and actually tuck behind it sheltering myself and wait until it passed.


It was always less than 5 minutes. The North Face HyVent raincoat I bought in Ireland last summer has saved me again. It's the best! True rain protection with breathability. Love it! The umbrella protects my face and legs while the raincoat protects my head and back.

So for the 30+ miles I biked today over rolling hills, I had sun, rain, sleet/hail, and winds! Sometimes all if it at once! But I've figured out how to cope with it:). This was probably the worst biking weather I've had because the winds were so strong. One local I've met thinks I'm amazing for biking this hilly and windy island. I'm having fun and loving the challenge!!!

Very remote up here. I'd had my sights on a backpackers I'd read was in this last "town" (more like dot on a map), but when I got here no one was around. The gas pumps are operable. The johns are open. But everything else is locked up. Season's over. Because the wind was so bad, I found an sheltered information board across the street. Thought I might be able to put my tent up there but it's not free standing so that wouldn't work. My bike is under there though for the night.

It's 6:30. It's dark. And the wind is gusting. I will say this tent does very well in wind, thank goodness. I hope tomorrow night when I'm camped up on the tip, the weather is more inviting. Today the temps were in 50s and 60s. It's been up on the 70s mostly before that. Night temps vary. I can tell at bedtime if its a warm night or a cold night. Tonight's a cold one. Will be below 50, I'm pretty sure.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone