Italian Riviera

October 29, 2014
Riva Trigoso, Italy

It's been 3 days I've been pedaling down the Italian Riviera from Savona to Sestri Levante. I've seen beautiful architecture in the ornate pastel buildings.


I've seen art in the gardens and the tiles of the boardwalks.




I've met some wonderful people eager to try and connect with me across our languages.



I've cycled the most delightful pathways along the cliff edge through a town and sometimes all the way to the next one.






I've seen bumper to bumper traffic. I've pedaled up and whizzed down steep hills. I've panicked about where I'll sleep at night because there is not an inch of unoccupied space anywhere and most of the campgrounds have closed for the season. I've seen as many motorcycles and scooters here as in Malaysia.

And I'm glad to have the Italian Riviera behind me. Not a good place to cycle but pretty to see. And oh the views!










And I also got my first proposition:) This old guy on a scooter pulls up along side and with one hand suggests we shag. No I don't think so! I reply. And he says Ciao and scooters away. I must be in Italy!!!

Tonight up the mountainside on a switchback pulloff I found my first camping spot in days. It's far from idyllic but I cycled further up and nothing but steep rock walls on one side and drop off on the other. Came back. Even though I'm only 15 ft from the road, the view out the back is pretty.





Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Not So Pretty Italy

October 24, 2014
Millesimo, Italy

The area I've been biking through is very congested and very industrial. Not very pretty at all. And until I can get a new SIM card for Italy I have to follow main roads. Heavy traffic. Big trucks. No shoulder. Not fun. And it's hilly here. Steep climbs. I'm worn out. The map looks so crazy with lots of highways where I'm heading and that has me a bit concerned. I like back roads. There aren't any along the coast.

The other issue I'm running into is I'm having to break the law, sometimes several times a day.



Bikes and pedestrians aren't allowed in the tunnels but my route goes right through them. Sometimes 2 or 3 in a row. At first this morning I hesitated. But I have no option. I don't know any other route. So in I go. No one's honked at me. I really don't know what else to do. Oh well. If the cops catch me, I guess they'll give me a lift. Right!

And some trail magic today was finding these


I only have one pair that I've been wearing 24/7 now that it's cold. And nothing's getting washed these days so they're getting rank. Well these pairs of new sox...my size...will be handy.

I did have a fun stop this afternoon when I stopped at this bar for water. There were about 20 motorcycles out front. I wanted someone to look at my map and the guy who looked interested didn't speak English. He did confirm there were more mountains ahead. After I got the water, a guy who did speak some English came over to chat with his friend. And I got asked the usual questions. Where are you going? Where have you come from? How many kms a day do you ride? How far have you ridden? Where do you sleep? How old are you? I love telling my age because it always stuns them! They guess me to be 10 years younger. Sometimes I have to show my passport:). This is not new...it's happened most of my life. But it's such fun now. "You're never to old to be young!" I didn't get to do this in my 20's so I'm doing it now.

And I got a picture with the guys!


Tonight's campsite is functional.
Off the road in a farmer's field. There's lots of road noise because there are 3 roads around me. But I do what I gotta do sometimes. It's not always romantic. I sure hope Italy improves it's ambiance. We'll see what tomorrow brings.

And I'm in for another cold night. Last night was milder but there's a chill early so I know what's coming. Brrr! This is getting old. I'm spending 15 hours a night in bed just staying warm. Not so fun either. Gotta get further south!!!

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Day 9 - The Alps, Italy

October 22, 2014
Demonte, Italy




What a night last night was! The winds were blowing the tent flat. I kept worrying that Blaze would blow away. Finally around midnight, because I wasn't sleeping just worrying, I decided to tie the tent to Blaze and kill 2 birds with one stone, as they say. I didn't do it earlier because I kept convincing myself that's he couldn't blow away...and it was cold and windy out there. But to get some sleep, I finally did...and was surprised at how warm it was. Seemed warmer than earlier. But when the wind stopped the skies must have cleared because it was cold and dry this morning. I waited for the sun to break over the mountains...nearly 9:30 and it didn't warm things up much. Forecast was for mid 20's. Yikes! I'm borderline prepared for those temps. Got saddled up and on the road a bit after 10. With tons of layers on! But pedaling up hill does seem to have a warming factor. Yet the wind was quite chilly. Hit the top of the pass a bit after 11 and the store that someone mentioned wasn't open (if that's what that building was).






I was going to put something together for breakfast (yogurt, dry oatmeal, nuts, and raisins...no fruit:() but it was too cold and windy to stick around. A great windy road down. They actually number and countdown the curves.



The only other cyclist I saw on this pass was a girl coming up today with a small backpack on. What a climb she had! I think they always look like a worse climb when I'm going down them than when I'm climbing. Why is that?

So today was the search for food. I wouldn't die of starvation but I was feeling nervous. And then going through an ancient quiet village, I see a old man with a plastic bag that looks like groceries. Where's you get that! Pointing at his bag. Remembering that I'm now in Italy and don't speak a word of it other than Ciao. So I start throwing French words at him. My brain goes to the foreign language dept and pulls up whatever it finds there:). 3 kms he says in French. And as I pedal away I'm wondering Did he walk 3 kms for those few things? And that's out of this village. Oh well. Let's see what happens. About 2.5 kms down the road I see a Bar sign and lots of types of food words and lots of cars! Truck stop! And it's lunch time. Ok. Let's eat! I eat out so rarely but I'm hungry and this is Italy now.

And the waitress spoke English. But she was busy trying to get all the workers fed. I told her not to worry. I'm in no rush. They did only a menu of the day and you could take some or all the courses. All please! Entre (appetizer) was a choice of pasta with tomato sauce or rizotto with veggies. I took the latter. Main course was pork steak or rabbit something. Pork for me. The rizotto was yummy. The pork steak came with green beans and garbanzo beans - not mixed. Dessert was creme caramel. And an espresso that I didn't drink. 13€. Not cheap but really delicious.

And she told me where the mini market was, but it was closed for another hour. Why me? Let's keep coasting down out of these mtns and hope it's warmer.

I have trepidation when entering a new country, especially not speaking the language. I don't even know how to say Hi in Italian. Come to find out, they don't have one word. So I say Hi. The people I've had to approach asking directions have been so nice and helpful even if we don't have a common language. Why do I forget this? It was a good day. I even got thrown a kiss from an old man trying to help me find the grocery store. He was adorable!

So tonight I'm camped on the river again just out of town. I heard about a bike path over here so after I got some food I decided to cross over and try it. And right at the river bridge was a picnic site: my camp site!

I lose the sun so early in the mountains. By 4:30 I was in the shadow of the mountain. I can see it across the valley on the other mountains and that's a bit warming. Gonna be another cold night. I gotta get SOUTH!!!






Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Kind Italians

October 23, 2014
Roccaforte, Italy



It's crisp and cold this morning with a light frost on everything including Blaze. But the sun is bright and the skies are stunningly blue. And as I pedal along amongst the autumn leaves down this quiet winding lane I can feel the chill in my face as I pull into the shade of the trees and then the warmth as I pull out into the sun again. I can smell the fresh manure spread on the field. I can hear birds chirping and see them fluttering through the trees. Yesterday I stopped and watched three black birds dip and dive as they played with each other. How else can you have this experience except by walking or pedaling slowly through the world? And this morning as my toes warm up (finally), I'm pinching myself at how lucky I am to be able to do this and do it alone. To know I can. To realize I am brave and strong and capable. These aren't things I realize everyday. "But if people keep telling you often enough that you have a tail, maybe ya oughta look:)". So it's starting to sink in.



Today I cycled down a lovely back road that wandered through little hamlets of houses and past farms and through woods. Felt almost like hiking the AT (Appalachian Trail) at times. Flashbacks! Then it dumped me in a large town. Grocery store. ATM. Phone card. I need these. First woman I asked, in English, smiled and pointed down the street the way I was going. Ok. I continued. There's a bank. Done. Back to Blaze who I left across the street (yes, I leave him unlocked everywhere...it be a bit obvious for someone to ride him away). More people to ask and they mime " follow us". Ok. Sweet little grocery store. And the people were so excited for my trip. They were speaking Italian. And I was speaking English. Crazy how that works.

I asked in the grocery store about the phone card and they said Cuneo, the city nearby. I was hoping to skip that city but I guess not... Unless I just wait until Savona a couple of days away. I have no fine detailed maps without my phone which adds a challenge. So I head towards Cuneo. I spot what may be a mall. It's possible the phone store is there. A woman in the parking lot says No. It's at the piazza in town, but it's also closed until 4 pm. It's only 1 pm. Guess that's not going to happen.

So I head back to catch the back road I had hoped to take. I can't find a route number. After several kms and winding through several towns, I find out Italy is like France used to be: you go from town to town. The roads have no names or numbers.

(I'm sitting in the sun in the roadside park where I'm camping tonight and these tiny white bugs are annoying me. They are so small they literally climb up the hairs of my legs. It's the first bugs I've dealt with in awhile.)

The road I was taking was not quaint. Busy. Industrial. Not a pretty part of Italy. I had to get my afternoon dose of water. There have been many fountains on the side of the road or in the villages pouring out mountain water. Love it. But can't count on where they will be. So when I see people outside, I stop and ask for "agua", which turns out to be correct. It was a bar that was closed and the husband was doing some carpentry work with his saw outside. The daughter spoke English too so I was able to share my story. And momma brought me out a cup of Italian coffee (a small cup of espresso). I don't normally drink caffeine after noon but how can I refuse this kindness? I can't. I don't. It was good. Then I ask about a picnic spot for camping and the papa, talking with his hands, tells me 3 kms and there's this something overhead. I thought they said right in the village. So with a "Bon Voyage" I pedaled away. So kind.

Down the road a piece I see a sign for "alimentacion" or something like that which I know to be a small grocery. Yes. I know. I already went to the grocery store. But I got tortillas for bread (because you can't buy fresh bread in the grocery stores...you have to go to the bakers), and I had some for lunch and it was not edible. Yuck. Too thick. Too dry. Awful. And I pitched it. So I needed bread. So I stopped although I could see it was closed. It was almost 4 pm and I thought they might re-open then. And she did. For me:). And she spoke only Italian, but she communicated. I got some bread and juice boxes and crackers. Then she came outside to see the bike and asked me where I was from. Then she went back inside and returned with 2 tangerines for me. Crazy, huh? In less than 20 minutes all this generosity. That's what I love about traveling too. I see the best of people. And the world is chock full of kind, caring, sharing people! Too bad that doesn't make the nightly news.

This is the view I have tonight.



But it really is one of the poorer spots to spend the night. Too close to a busy road. Lots of cars and car lights. It will quiet down as the evening progresses but...


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Day 7 & 8 - The Alps

October 21, 2014
Col de Larche, France

Had company wild camping last night:). What a treat! I was camped just outside of Vars at the driving range when a fellow calls to me in my tent. It's Teddy, a young
French man who's backpacking and hitch hiking to this town from Chambery (where I spent that great weekend with Edelweiss) to get a winter job. We shared stories, my soup, his weed over my mini candle campfire. What an enlightened young man! An enjoyable evening. Thank you Teddy!

Not too bad a night but as always a chilly morning. Had breakfast at the top of the pass. Wish it had been warmer.




Then a delightful ride gown the other side. I've learned to slow down on these long downhills because it's such beautiful views that I don't want them to speed by. And I've gotten used to traveling at about 7 mph and like it.



Ok, food is getting to be a problem. The villages since I left Brisncon are basically napping, getting ready for a busy winter season and everything is closed. And then, what day do I arrive in Guillestre? Sunday afternoon...closed. I thought for sure I'd find something open these last few days, but naught. I'm scraping the bottom of the barrel. Today I rode into a closed up village and spotted a lady getting out of her car? She showed me where to find the small grocery down the street but if it's not open I have some bread you can have. Nope. Only open Sat, Sun, Mon. 9 - 12. So I took her up on her offer for the bread. And that has helped. She offered to feed me lunch but she lived 3 kms away, the wrong way. She also gave me an idea of what towns coming up may have a store. But I have to get there in the morning. Not an easy task.

So I arrived at the beginning of my last climb in the Alps and this is the sign I see.



What??? No bikes?!?!? That can't be! What am I gonna do? Why is that? Do I just go anyways? Take a look at the map. Going south there are many more passes and they could be monsters! My legs are spent. 4 consecutive days of climbing! Even the Tour de France riders get rest days! Ok. Maybe I should hitch up. So I stick out my thumb at the next vehicle coming my way...and they stop. Elderly man and some women in a small truck. He gets out. I explain my problem. He say "But that's not a bike. It's a trike!" And then he says "This is France. Bikes are on all the roads!" So you think it would be ok? "Sure...just be careful of the big trucks because there's no shoulder." No worries. I've biked roads like that before. So I went for it! And I saw that guy again as he passed me on his way back...and he gave me a thumbs up. Heck, even the truckers waved!

So here I am tonight camped 30 ft from the road behind this new church which is blocking the brisk winds. I'm at about 6,000 ft, just 4 kms from the pass. And when I checked the weather, it showed it getting down in the 20's tonight. Brrrr!!!! I've got summer gear. I'm sure with everything on, I'll be warm enough tonight. But oh, the mornings have been hard. It's the fingers and toes. Just so hard keeping them warm. It's just another challenge to deal with.



And tomorrow...ITALY!! I wish I could say and down to warmer climates but that's not the forecast. At least no rain!

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Day 6 - The Alps, Col de l'Izoard

October 19, 2014
Le Lais, France

I'm not really equipped for frigid temps. This is suppose to be a warm weather tour. This morning I awoke to a frosty tent. Hadn't doubled up the sleeping bags yet, but did have my fleece, cap, and sox on. Figure it had to be about 30*. Mornings are the toughest trying to keep my hands and feet warm while packing up. I have now only one pair of six. Lost another or stuck them someplace special...so special I can't find them:). And I have Seal Skinz to wear in my sandals biking. I only have sandals with me: biking, hiking, and flip flops. So with only one pair of sox and needing them dry tonight, I put just the Seal Skinz on. Not much warmth there. Keep jumping around. Oh my toes are frigid. And I have this thing called Reynaud's Syndrome which makes my fingers and toes shut down in the cold adding to the challenge. Gotta be tough, girl! No whining! And I knew it was not going to improve once I started biking. Toes in the air, out front, get cold! A ways along, when I knew I had to warm them and I found a patch of sun I stopped on the side of the road and pulled the sox off and warmed them with my hands. Then I put my fleece gloves on them while I had breakfast. Ahhh! Finally warm again!

Where I spent the night last night was like in a mountain bowl with mountains all around. It was a "one horse town" with old tattered buildings and one bar. Looked like it was trying to make a come back. Down this lane there was a picnic spot. They always cry out to me: Camp Here!




I had 7 kms (4 miles) to reach the top of the pass. It took me 5 hours! SLOW! I find a lot of reasons to stop when the pedaling is hard. I like to rest. Take pictures. Walk around. Eat. Eat some more. Pee. More pictures. I felt like I was out west somewhere, like California mtns.













(Photos tipped sideways won't upload otherwise...go figure!)

It was a fabulous climb. And I sure looked happier than all those folks grinding away on upright bikes.

Here's a scary way to go down:




But this sure looked fun:



Those are hang gliders. Doug, you'd have loved it!! There were so many. Got to see the landing spot way down in the valley, but of course couldn't get my camera out in time.

The ride down was fun, but had to bundle up. I kept it slow because it was too beautiful to miss anything. The mountains broke out into this expansive valley then steep rocks like the Wind River Range of Wyoming.




And then I was in a big town again and before I knew it, the sign for another Col or pass of over 7,000 ft. This one I didn't know about. So I have 2 more to cross. Ugh. I started to climb but my legs are beat. There's a mowed field. Just pass under this little rope. "They don't mean me!" Tuck in the corner. Good night!


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Day 6 - The Alps, Col de l'Izoard

October 19, 2014
Le Lais, France

I'm not really equipped for frigid temps. This is suppose to be a warm weather tour. This morning I awoke to a frosty tent. Hadn't doubled up the sleeping bags yet, but did have my fleece, cap, and sox on. Figure it had to be about 30*. Mornings are the toughest trying to keep my hands and feet warm while packing up. I have now only one pair of six. Lost another or stuck them someplace special...so special I can't find them:). And I have Seal Skinz to wear in my sandals biking. I only have sandals with me: biking, hiking, and flip flops. So with only one pair of sox and needing them dry tonight, I put just the Seal Skinz on. Not much warmth there. Keep jumping around. Oh my toes are frigid. And I have this thing called Reynaud's Syndrome which makes my fingers and toes shut down in the cold adding to the challenge. Gotta be tough, girl! No whining! And I knew it was not going to improve once I started biking. Toes in the air, out front, get cold! A ways along, when I knew I had to warm them and I found a patch of sun I stopped on the side of the road and pulled the sox off and warmed them with my hands. Then I put my fleece gloves on them while I had breakfast. Ahhh! Finally warm again!

Where I spent the night last night was like in a mountain bowl with mountains all around. It was a "one horse town" with old tattered buildings and one bar. Looked like it was trying to make a come back. Down this lane there was a picnic spot. They always cry out to me: Camp Here!




I had 7 kms (4 miles) to reach the top of the pass. It took me 5 hours! SLOW! I find a lot of reasons to stop when the pedaling is hard. I like to rest. Take pictures. Walk around. Eat. Eat some more. Pee. More pictures. I felt like I was out west somewhere, like California mtns.













(Photos tipped sideways won't upload otherwise...go figure!)

It was a fabulous climb. And I sure looked happier than all those folks grinding away on upright bikes.

Here's a scary way to go down:




But this sure looked fun:



Those are hang gliders. Doug, you'd have loved it!! There were so many. Got to see the landing spot way down in the valley, but of course couldn't get my camera out in time.

The ride down was fun, but had to bundle up. I kept it slow because it was too beautiful to miss anything. The mountains broke out into this expansive valley then steep rocks like the Wind River Range of Wyoming.




And then I was in a big town again and before I knew it, the sign for another Col or pass of over 7,000 ft. This one I didn't know about. So I have 2 more to cross. Ugh. I started to climb but my legs are beat. There's a mowed field. Just pass under this little rope. "They don't mean me!" Tuck in the corner. Good night!


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Day 5 - Another Pass

October 18, 2014
Near Col de l'Izoard



Day 4 I didn't write a blog. Day off. 7th anniversary of my Appalachian Trail thru-hike summit! Wahoo!!

And since I was in a big town I decided I'd splurge and get a room in the old section of town...my favorite. In Briancon, the old section is way up on the hill. The old guys really liked to put their villages and castles on the top of steep climbs. Just before the big climb I decided to get out of my warm pants. It was cold when the day started and I didn't do my usual shorts underneath my pants so all I have to do is pull them off. No. I've got to take off one and put on the other. In town. I'm getting good at this! Voila! Now I can handle the climb. Up and up I grind. I don't mind climbing too often. Well some days I'm not in the mood. But luckily in the Alps, I'm up for it. I go up and find the entrance to the old village.






No cars allowed...but bikes are okay! So I head in through the old gates and slowly cycle around taking in the view. Stop. Dismount. Go look over the edge. Amazing how these things are constructed. Go to take a photo...and...no fanny pack! NOOOOOO!!! I can't lose that. OMG!!! I think I'm gonna throw up! No time for that. You took it off when you changed into shorts. Ya, but I put it on the bike seat so I wouldn't lose it. I had to have put it on. Oh, this can't be happening!!!! This is worse than the frame breaking! I think I'm gonna be sick. Get yourself together. It's not here? No. Then you'll have to ride back down. It was a quiet spot where you changed. It's probably still there. Oh, I think I'm gonna be sick! This is the worst thing EVER! Ok. Back on Blaze. Calm down. You'll be ok. What's that up ahead? Could it be? Just 50 ft from where I stopped? YES! It fell off? How did that happen? Who cares! Everything's okay. Whew! Gotta double check the buckle I guess.

So I pedaled until I found a small hotel in the narrow streets of the old village. How sweet. Just what I want. 89€. Ouch! Come on. After 6 + months on the road you can afford this. It's just what you wanted. Ok. I'll take it. Got a place for my bike? Yup. In the cellar. Sorry Blaze. And a bathtub. And two windows opening into the street. Great.



When I pay that much for a room I feel like I should just hang out in it:). But I didn't. I went wandering. I love old buildings. Just wandering is my favorite thing. Up one street. Down another. And this is a steep walking town. Lots of steps.







But one night was all I could afford. So this morning I took off. With new plans to head south over two passes into Italy. I can thank Guilluame my Warmshowers host for the idea. He heard how much I loved Col de Lautaret! I said ok after I checked the grading of them.

So today after getting resupplied I headed out into the most glorious Indian summer day. Pedal. Pedal. Up and up.

What's that noise? No! The back wheel is grinding. Still? On what? My weight forces the suspension down and the tire is scraping the rack. Not again. I'm tired of problems!! The new red suspension elastomer that sits in a wedge is collapsing down to half it's size. The old one didn't do that. And it's worse when climbing because of how my weight presses against it. A quick email to ICE but they aren't going to know what to do. I've gotta figure this out. I need more stuff in that wedge to hold it open. What do I have that would be spongy? Hmm. Pedal. Scrape. Pedal. Scrape. This is bad. What if I put a folded inner tube in there? It's spongy. It would keep it more open and then off the wheel. When I stopped for the night I chatted a guy on the road up to see if he thought it would work. Maybe. So I put it in there.


What do ya think? Then out walking tonight I found an old sneaker. Hmm? Maybe the insole folded would be better.


That's better. I think my weight will keep it there. It's all pretty tight. Love it when I figure out a fix. This may be permanent!

Oh and here's tonight's campsite.


Looks more dramatic in person.


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman