March 31, 2015
Galentipy, Victoria, AU
Last night I had one of the most magical camp sites. I passed on staying in the small, but cute town of Buchan at a quaint park campground "like the 1950's" they said. And I missed seeing the caves by 10 minutes. Wasn't sure I wanted to. Claustrophobic big time. Why do you think I love the great outdoors???
So I cycled out about 4 pm. And up and up in the hottest part of the day. Thank you umbrella! Lots of big paddocks. No shoulder to the road. No side roads. Hmmm? Wonder what tonight's camping spot will look like. Found a pulloff, or layby as they're called here. Didn't look inviting. Keep moving. You're not desperate yet. In an hour you will be. See a dirt road pulling off to the right. Possibilities up here. Nothing great. Pretty close to the road. (I don't like the noise.). Where's this road go? So I walk up the hill to a fairly mowed flat spot, a gate, and a loading ramp. This is great! So up I pedal. And the views were amazing. I love the day's end. Quiet. Restful. All the creatures are tucking in for the night. You'll see the pics in another post.
Today was a lot of climbing. Looking at the profile map tonight I now understand why my legs don't want to move. But it was spectacular views and then forests. Few cars. Fewer houses.
I found an injured animal on the side of the road in a ditch. Panting. Unable to rise. First thought it was a young deer. But it might have been a kangaroo. Hard to tell because it was curled up and couldn't stand. So sad. What could I do? Namaste. Namaste. I tried calling Wildlife Rescue number but got a recording because their swamped. Mother Nature is not always gentle. Namaste. And I biked away. And my heart hurt. Still does. Death is part of the flow of life. Doesn't make it easy.
Then later in an area that had burned out recently I see quite a bit of smoke coming out of a pile. I called 000 the emergency number and reported it. A bit further down the road I passed the fire ute going to my smoke. I hope they found all 3 hot spots I noticed. Wished they could help my injured animal. They didn't stop and talk to me.
A day full of ups and downs. And now it's dusk. That favorite part if the day. And I'm camped at a picnic spot just down the hill from a farmhouse. Very nice. But not as nice as last night:)
April 1, 2015
Suggan Buggan, Victoria, AU
Don't ya just love the name of this "fork in the road"? It's actually just a bridge and 2 houses I think. One on each side of the creek. I had a lovely, though rough, 10 km downhill on a dirt road. Day after tomorrow I pay for it with a 20 km climb. On a dirt road. Not sure I can do it in one day. We'll see. But tomorrow is a 5 km climb first thing then after a downhill, pretty flat. On dirt. That's slow going.
Whenever I've asked people about water on this stretch of secluded road, they've said "you'll cross a lot of creeks"...and they're right. I have. A lot of DRY creeks:(. It's been a dry summer. There's no water in them. Today I crawled through a fence to get to a water tank to stock up. A girl's gotta do what a girl's gotta do! I'm carrying 6 liters...good for 3 days. Then didn't the creek here have water flowing through it! Since I'm going up tomorrow I'd better stay stocked up. No water up high, I don't think. And I'm carrying food for 6 days. This is day number 2. I've got a ways to go. About 100 kms or 60 miles of tough road. Hard tellin', not knowin'...as they say in Maine.
I had amazing views out over the Alpine National Park of beautiful mountains. Lots of eucalyptus trees as far as the eye can see. It's a sight I never tire of. Takes my breath away every time. I'm in awe!
I'm at a town camp spot tonight. Thank you, Suggan Buggan! Free. And a spotless outhouse...with toilet paper!
April 2, 2015
Running Waters campsite on the Snowy River,
New South Wales, AU
Another day on all gravel road. Took from 8:30 to 4 pm to go 30 kms and I'm pooped! But it was such a wonderful ride and worth all the effort.
In NZ it was the foliage that impressed me and I tried to learn the names of many different trees while I was there. In Australia, it's the birds! I didn't know they had so many exotic birds here. And I'm not a bird person. But here they're do distinctly different. From the white cockatoos to the lyrical mud larks. Parrots, willy wags, and kookaburras. And many songs I don't even know yet. They are so entertaining. And so plentiful. What a surprise.
So I've officially bathed in the infamous Snowy River. And did it ever feel good. Simple pleasures: a bath and hair wash. And a quiet campsite. For a holiday weekend, I've been pretty lucky. One place I passed they were packed in bumper to bumper. But they must have had more room because some people stopped on here on their way there...and didn't return. Yup. Lucky me.
By my estimations I have 3 more days on this incredible road through the wilderness. Must say this has been one of my most favorite rides ever. I chatted with a woman today who invited me to come visit whenever I get to Brisbane. Thanks Jackie. See ya in a few months. And she said I've got quite a climb ahead: the 20 kms...and steep. I hope I can break it into 2 days. Hope there's a place to camp halfway up. Some days I can grind away, no worries. Other times each pedal stroke is painful and I stop frequently. And I never know when to expect what. I just know I'll get to the top. Somehow. Because that's what I have to do.
April 3, 2013
Wallace Craigie Lookout
"Not an official camping spot", so said the ranger I'd been seeing on and off all day as I climbed that freakin' hill. But he said ok. Just one night.
I had to get 6 liters of water from the river at the bottom before this all day climb. Didn't know where I'd be camping the next 2 nights and what my water options were. That's 12 lbs of water I hauled up the dusty gravel road during "rush hour" Good Friday traffic. I should have counted the cars, trucks, 4 WD utes towing back country campers, trucks hauling trailers with horses that passed me today raising up dust so bad one guy said I needed a gas mask:). Most slowed as they passed to lower the dust. Only a few sped by thoughtlessly. Many took pictures, or waved, or gave thumbs up...and most smiled. To see me slowly grinding up this dusty gravel road with my umbrella up, grinning away, must have made their day...for a moment anyways. And I made it...most of the way...still have 5 kms tomorrow. The steepest part. But today these legs were done.
April 4th
Dam on Snowy River, Jindabyne
I think I wore out my legs on that gravel after so many days of pedaling on it. My knees are throbbing. But the beauty was so worth it.
I think of all this great stuff I want to write in my journal while I'm pedaling. Then my mind goes blank when I start. Often times I can't remember if I already said something or just thought about writing it.
Yesterday I was so slow I was passed by some joggers on the gravel. How insulting! Now will folks believe me when I say I'm slow? But I did see a brumby (wild mustang), I think. But it was near a farm so maybe it was just a loose horse. Someone did say they like to hang out near the ranches, going from place to place. I also saw kangaroos. He was right in the road looking at me as I fumbled to get my phone out. Before I could take the picture, he hopped away. I put the phone away. Then out hopped his mate across the road:/. It wouldn't have been a good shot too far away. I'm seriously thinking about a super zoom camera because of all the shots I can't get with what I have. Then there's the issue of how to post them off the camera. If I could pick and choose which ones to transfer with wifi I'd like that feature. But I don't want all of them to move that way. Too much power zapper. Power is a previous commodity. Never enough.
I got into Jindabyne and never felt so alone in a crowd. Think of a mountain resort town on a big holiday weekend. People everywhere. Buzzing around chaotically. Not locals. No connections. Rain. And I don't have a plan. And I'm tired. Culture shock, to say the least. Got my groceries and got out of town. Now where to go? Head out of town and see what I can find. Look at that wide "grassy" area overlooking the dam accessible only by bikes or walking. Yup. Camp there!
Sometimes I think: did I miss seeing important or interesting sights by passing through so quickly? Should I stay and play tourist? Not in those crowds. Not this weekend. I'm enjoying lying alone next to the lake. I'm a traveler, not a tourist.
But I did arrange a Warmshowers host for tomorrow night in Cooma. Shower will be nice:)
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman
