North Shore of Cuba

There are so many scenes each day that are unusual and I forget to mention them. The guys on the veranda in Havana repairing mattress springs. The guy carrying his bird in a cage back from the beach with his daughter.

I'm feeling a deep loneliness here. Hard to connect without much language. A feeling of how much richer it would be to be sharing this experience with someone. Laughter. Planning. Maybe it will pass as time goes by.

I'm sitting in the courtyard having morning tea and Barbara just let the dog out onto the street to do his business. No poop scooping here:)

I finished my tea, packed up and moved on. I thought perhaps I was holding her up from leaving her house and I had to make some miles today.

At least that was the plan. I think I did 20 miles. The wind and sun are my excuse. Also I met some fellow travelers: Adrien from France and his girlfriend, Ana from Argentina.




They've also been on the road 3 years through South America. They were the most economical cyclists I've ever seen with plastic containers with the lids sliced away for panniers.


She had 4 containers and he 2. He had a great design of these wire folding baskets that folded flat when not in use. Some clever thinking. We just sat on the side of the road, Ana pulled out tiny folding stools and we had a cyclists meeting while trucks and horse drawn carts went by. Their English was quite good so we could converse and share the magic of this life we lead.
And of course they had to sit on Blaze.



But also we had to go our separate ways: me to the east and them towards La Habana and their flight to Mexico in a couple of days. Mexico is where they can sell their jewelry and sorta settle down. Adrien told me about Casa de Ciclista that are in different countries where touring cyclists can stop for months at a time if desired. There's a gathering coming up of touring cyclists at one somewhere but I'll have to Google that when I can.

Another hot, sunny, windy day. My skin is suffering. Today I actually put on a jacket and capris to get some shelter from the sun. But then I overheat without air on my skin. What a dilemma. But although slow, cycling into the wind sure helps to cool me down.

I passed a ton of horse-drawn carts today.









And tractors too!



I've been taking back country roads and there are no services on these. In the middle of the afternoon I saw a handmade signed for a restaurant around the corner so I went that way. I finally found a counter with drinks and pizza and hamburgers. I was really thirsty for cold water and when she just poured it out of a used bottle I didn't go running to.
my bike for my filter. I hope that wasn't a mistake. I didn't filter my first gulp last night either. I have to pay closer attention, although supposedly the water is okay. I guess I'm testing it. A friend said there was bottled water everywhere...she lied! Not in the rural areas I'm traveling. Glad I brought this new Grayle filter as its easy to use.
So I had pizza con jambon, no quesa...pizza with ham, no cheese. I think it was Spam!



Eating healthy here is as challenging as in our south. I'm working really hard at staying off dairy here. But eating some meat.

Some of the roads Maps.me is sending me down are a bit rough!






But some spectacular views.



And unusual houses.



And little friends.



So tonight is my first wild camping and I'm at the formal entryway to something but I don't know what.


Quite a few people have gone past and I wave and say "Hola" to be friendly. They smile and wave. So I guess I'm good. I feel totally safe here in the country but I did lock my bike to a fence post. And I'm so happy back in my tent listening to the birds and feeling the tropical breezes. And each day I figure out how to stumble around making my needs known. Everyone is so kind and helpful. It's getting easier! Whew! Off to rest and read and sleep.


Live YOUR dream,

BagLady

Day 6: Getting Out of Havana

OK. Can't stay on Habana forever. Got to hit the road. Have no idea how this is going to go. My plan is to cycle south of the Bay then up to the coastline. Cycling Cuba suggests using the Via Blanca. Maps.me routed me. off of the Via Blanca. Yea, I was super-excited yesterday when I found out the Maps.me actually will rate routes offline and navigate! Wahoo! Them today I found out it isn't always so knowledgeable about the roads in Cuba. The first time it routed me down stairs to get across a small stream. Then the people on the street pointed another way. There was a bridge. A guy sitting there shook his finger and gave me a blocked sign. I thought maybe bikes weren't allowed. But after crossing I found out he meant it sad blocked on the other side. As I pondered how I would get it through he showed up to help me lift Blaze over the barricade.

I haven't mentioned the crazy roads and terrible fumes and wild card and buses I encountered getting out of Habana. I wanted to video it but I had my hands full. Just picture buses, trucks, cars, all honking, and spewing black smoke...and me. You got it!! I was sure glad for the navigate feature giving me directions.
When I got to a quieter area I did capture this video. Just imagine more vehicles and people on the street!

Oh but first there were big goodbyes at SuCasa365.


This is Georgina and her ex who works there.



This is Andy and Damaris from London and Brazil, who were guests there for several nights while I was there. I hope to see them in London someday!

What a wonderful place to stay: lovely room, great hosts, beautiful house, delicious breakfasts, and any questions answered. There was nothing I'd change about my accommodations...not one thing!


OK. Back to today's ride. One thing on my agenda was hitting a supermarket and I used Maps.me to locate some ahead of time. I was headed there. We'll, following my map I ended up in the hi rise slum-ish area. Alcohol is sold everywhere. Absolutely everywhere. At the gas station. In little shops. Not much food, but alcohol!! I was trying to find some snacks: crackers or cookies. I stopped in little shops, shops for hotels, anywhere I could leave my bike for a minute. One place had canned fruit, little boxes of Fruit Loops and Frosted Flakes, juices, and alcohol. Imagine these shelves filled for 2-3 feet with all the same product.

I did find cookies at the hotel shop:). And lots of suntan lotion.

I came across a farmer with a herd of goats. He motioned for me to come over and showed me two baby goats, each in their own sack.







My route took me down to the beach. But it was so dirty didn't go any further.





I saw so much filth today. Piles of trash. So sad. Because they aren't dirty...just the trash seems to pile up.

I had headwinds which are a mixed blessing. They keep me cool but prevent me from using my umbrella. (which broke another stay today...it's going to be on pieces by the end of the month) and the sun did a job on me! That and the wind.

I kept pushing along hoping that later today I'd be out in farm land where I could camp. By 4 o'clock I was losing steam and wanting to figure out where I could stop. I'm in a Cuban beachy community called Playa Estes. Finding a Casa Particulares is not easy. Once you find a house with the emblem, there's no one around. I'm finding out that shyness is something I struggle with when learning new things. I almost cycled away tonight but finally saw someone outside and asked "Casa particulares?" He sent me to Johnny who spoke great English and helped me meet Barbara and her son, Alfredo. I think they've rented me their two room studio. There's a room with 2 beds and a kitchen and a bath. But there's more to the unit in front as we're in the back. For $20 (down from $25 they were asking...I'm getting better at negotiations), I have a bed, a cold shower, and some dinner of pasta and potato and chicken salad. Yum! And Blaze is locked inside a locked courtyard.



My room for the night.



Blaze locked up to a pillar in a locked courtyard.



Barbara and Alfredo, my hosts.

I can see finding accommodations each night is going to get to me! I also know this is probably not a legal Casa particulares because there was no sign and she didn't record anything. I'm sure she's just very glad to make the money.

I'm fried, exhausted, in questionable accommodations. What a first day on the road!!

There are lots of horses and wagons around here taking everyone for rides...Kids and families. The horse's are terribly skinny but the truth right out. I've seen a lot...a lot of horses and carts. In the city, in the country. I'll try to get more pics.

I did finally walk out to the beach today. It was disgustingly filthy. Have I mentioned how much I hate litter?!? Pick up your trash!!

It's been interesting in that there is little conversation. Barbara asks me short questions. She offered me more dinner, but I was quite happy. Later she showed me not to use the sink in my bathroom as there's no drain attached. Good to know. I wish I could talk with her more. But I really have everything I need for tonight.
Buenos noches!!


Live YOUR dream,

BagLady