May 24, 2014
Cee, Spain
Arrived into Santiago de Compostella last Monday (this is Saturday) in the first rain we've really had to deal with. There was a drizzle one day in 6 weeks, I think. First things first. The girls were focused on getting there Compostella: a certificate that says you've hiked the Camino, at least the last 100 kms. I could care less about certificates but it was important to them so I zipped my lip (I know, rare moment) and joined in their excitement. It was a significant accomplishment for Victoria and Marjukka and I'm so proud of them for them for making it!!! Our group had expanded for a few days to include Cara, a young girl from the USA that has been bopping around Europe for about 6 months. Having gotten certified, I was focused on finding a room. A cute one at that. Since the night before we had stayed in a 500 bed albergue, I wanted something a but more intimate:). It was part of a conference center that I calculated would sleep several thousand people: 30 buildings sleeping about 300 in each...you do the math! I had spotted solace on the way in, but the group needed the tourist info recommendation and to stop by another albergue that we didn't like before going to my preference: Azabache Albergue. Cute place with 2 bunks per room, large windows and balcony, kitchen, old and quaint. We all loved it! Around the corner from the Cathedral, near to everything! And we could stay as long as we wanted, something you can't do in a regular albergue.
Pilgrims mass is at noon every day in the cathedral and being with 4 Catholic girls...well, you get the picture. It's quite an occasion with an hour long mass of which I understood not a word but was still moving. And it ended with the swinging of the botafumeiro, a thurible filled with burning incense that weighs a ton and takes 6 men to get it swinging. I posted a great video on Facebook that came from YouTube. I was too far away to video it. Besides a woman in front held up her iPad to do a video and it might as well have been her wide screen TV! Blocked everything behind her! Rumor has it the incense was to temper the odors of the unwashed pilgrims:). The pilgrims today are the cleanest hikers I've ever met!
Santiago didn't feel like an accomplishment. The hiking was easy. Days were short. Food more than plentiful and frequent. Showers daily. Just felt like a journey...one of many for me. I fear that the more I do, the less significant they become. Just another day in the life... And is that good it bad? Living more in each moment, for sure. Some moments I enjoy more than others. Some moments I have to learn how to take care of myself without affecting others.
Some days, like today, are pure joy! April and I hiked past Santiago to the coast heading to Finisterre, where many say the true end of the Camino is. We stayed in Santiago until Marjukka left (Wed morning...Victoria left to hike to Finisterre the day before wanton alone time and having a schedule). And we decided since we had time and could find no other trails out here to hike, that we'd go slow and hike out and back to Santiago over 12 days. This has been the best part of the hike...even 3 days of rain! Through more woods and hillier terrain, with fewer pilgrims. Today was spectacular over the moors for 13 kms (longest distance without a cafe - 8 miles - does that tell you something?). And the sun came out to warm us up! (Yesterday I hiked in rain in sandals and shorts, temps in the low 50's! Brr!)
And we reached the ocean!!! What amazing views! And our room tonight with only 4, has a view!
Livin' the life,
BagLady
