Another Day on the Via Francigena.

November 17, 2014
Radicofani, Italy

Last night was interesting. Got near this town (on a hill, they all are!) and called to see if anyone would be around at the "religious structure". Several numbers provided. Finally someone answers. Broken English. Closed for repairs. Will book me into B&B for 20 €. High, but what the heck...new experience. Then she texts me that the B&B is full. Try the Aubergue at the square or the parish, she says. This is a larger town. I have no clue where she's talking about. Get to the aubergue after asking many people. Closed with phone number. Voicemail in Italian. Call original woman back. She tells me where Parish is. Find that. A Father answers. Broken English. He takes me to a Pilligrini sign on a door and points to a phone number. Arrgghhh. I call. Think I've talked to this woman before. A guy comes on. He wants to give me another number. It's getting late. Rain is beginning. I'm feeling lost and frustrated. I gotta go out up my tent I tell him and hang up. My faithful tent:). I find a picnic spot just out of town and set up in the early sprinkles getting inside before the skies open...for the next 4 hours! Eat something cold: bread, cheese, salami. And to sleep at 6 pm. Slept 13 hours!

It rained so heavy last night off and on, but my tent held up well. I slung a line to dry my pants during the night without much luck. So this morning I put them on over my long johns and hopped back in my bag to dry them. 45 min later, voila! Now they were just damp to begin with, but I love these pants because they dry so fast. No rain pants for me...just these. The rain stops and my pants dry quickly. So fast it surprises me. And I appreciated that this morning when it rained early during my ride. Rain and cold. Not fun. But then the skies cleared and it was a gorgeous day for cycling.









I was going to go to another town tonight, but during the last 5 kms I changed my mind. I found a picnic spot on the side of the road and set up.

The road noise will quiet in a while and it's easier to tolerate than bells. The first cop of my whole journey stopped while I was cooking in the dark, just to see if I was all right. How sweet is that?

There's some great heat lightning going on out there tonight. Great clouds earlier today too.




I'm trying to eat up all the odds and ends in my food bag...kinda like cleaning the fridge before going away. Not buying much, so making do. Tonight was sautéed eggplant and mushroom soup. I got the soup in France:). I carry something's as emergency food for when I can't find a grocery store. But lately the meal emergencies have been being unable to cook because of the rain. Then it's a real scramble to see how I'll feed myself. Of course sitting in my tent from 4 pm onward means there's lots of time to be munching. Not so good if there's nothing to munch on! That's why I go to sleep early. To turn off the mouth:)

Just 5 or 6 more days until Roma!!!


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Under the Tuscan Sun...some days

November 14, 2014
Siena, Italy

I can't remember where I left off. Have I mentioned how terrible my memory is. I scare myself sometimes because 5 minutes after I've put my phone some place special (that I seriously contemplated) I'll panic because it's not in it's usual place nor the the first other place I thought of putting it. A terrible sinking feeling that I've lost one of the most valuable pieces of gear I'm carrying. Sick. And then I notice where it's stashed in the bike seat pocket (2nd most common place I put it) and then I remember the entire inner dialogue I had about putting in there and not in my pocket where it could fall out (which was exactly what I thought had happened). 5 minutes? Really? I can't connect 5 minutes? I'm dangerous!

So I'm cycling the Via Francigena, an Italian pilgrim route that actually starts in Canterbury, England, travels through France to Italy and Rome. I'm just doing the last 400 kms. And it's been delightful to have a trail to follow. Well, I'm actually doing the driving route, but it's pretty well signed. Nothing's perfect. And it's taking me through the center of Tuscany and all these medieval walled villages.


















The colors of autumn have really popped especially in the vineyards.

Have had quite a bit of rain in Italy this month...more than usual. I've spent some long hours in my tent. (See videos posted on Facebook.) And there's more coming tomorrow. I gotta keep moving south because my flight to New Zealand is out of Rome on the 30th.

When I'd had enough battling the rain, I checked into a convent that was on my list. This wing where the house and feed pilgrims was all new. I had a 5 bunk room all to myself and used very inch drying out my gear.

I also met a mom and son ( Carolyn and Ned) hiking from Lucca (the town where I started) who are from New Zealand. Ahh! English speaking!






Ya, Ned loved the trike!

The next day we decided to meet up again because my route was twice as long as theirs. And a monastery awaited us for cheap.

Met some Italian hikers doing a section that day.




The monastery was great. But we had a tiny room with 3 beds. Ahh, hiker life!













So today after touring San Gimignano this morning, I sadly said goodbye and cycled on. It was fun having a couple of days connection, hearing their story. They're moving to Italy, Tuscany, to an old house they've bought and are remodeling. Talk about an adventure!! Looking forward to staying in touch! An amazing woman and mother! And Ned, loved your attitude! You rock, Carolyn and Ned!!!

Tonight I'm camped at a little park I found off the beaten path. Who knows why I headed down here, but this is perfect for tonight.



Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman