Slow Going

September 8, 2014
Montjean, France

I'm struggling with the language. Didn't think knowing some of a language was such a hindrance, but when I try to talk to people, they think I understand more than I do. And I wish I did. It's a lot like being hard of hearing and it's quite frustrating.

A woman stopped me in a village today and she was so excited about my bike but that's about all I got. No, that's not true. She'd had knee replacement about 5 months ago and retired 3 months ago. And I met her daughter and boyfriend who passed. But I'm not used to being at a loss for words, and I was. I find myself avoiding people to avoid the struggle. I'm sure this will improve too.

I'm also frustrated with my mileage. It's just not accumulating. And I'm pedaling hard and long. Guess I'm getting old. I just don't seem to be able to break 30 most days. Why not? Perhaps it's the heat. Tis quite warm and muggy. That must be it.

But I did have a lovely reminder today that it doesn't matter how slowly you go, if you keep trying, you'll get there. I was hanging around the Super U (think mini Walmart) drying tent, charging phone and resting in the shade when I looked up and saw this old, disheveled, handicapped man shuffling mini steps...shuffle, shuffle, stomp the cane...shuffle, shuffle, stomp the cane, and rest... And he had a heavy coat on (in this heat) and where he came from I haven't a clue as this store was in an industrial, commercial area. But as I watched him creep ever so slowly to the store, it reminded me to keep going forward. I admired his determination under such challenging conditions. Who am I to complain?

Another people encounter the other day I want to share was with an elderly woman that I saw sliding down an extremely steep (think vertical) bank on the side of the road. The bank was about 8-10 ft high. I stopped and asked her if I could help. Misunderstanding I got up to give her a hand, envisioning both of us sliding down this bank. When I offered my hand she shook her head and said she's used to doing this. In a dress? Then she admired my bike and asked me if I was hungry as she handed me some nuts. Wish I knew my nuts. They cracked with my teeth and we're quite tasty. Love the rural women of any country. So tough!

Funny how when my day becomes so simple the little things mean a lot. Oh ya, the sun this morning was amazing! I've never seen a sun that orange when rising, only setting. It blew me away! Lately there's been no sun in the morning because the moisture in the air has caused dense cloud cover. It's humid here!

I love the houses here. This must be where the concept of McMansions came from...in days of yore. The old houses are massive and well maintained. The barns are huge too and go one forever. All stone.




In fact, I see little poverty here. The villages are neat and clean, buildings repaired, no litter, new construction both buildings and highways. And flowers everywhere. The gardens are beautiful!

Met the cutest kids last night that wanted to help me find my way. We conversed pretty well.



Love interacting with children wherever I am. So fresh and innocent and curious.

I ran out of food today and desperately needed a grocery store. I can never be sure where I'll find one. I have yet to see a little neighborhood one. I think they've been out out of business by Super U. Sadly so. So I came into my first village this morning and see a town map on a sign. Hmm. The patisserie et boulangerie (bakery and butcher) is around the corner. Go look. Closed...permanently. Cafe nearby. Closed too. Ah, there's a bar/restaurant. At least I can eat something. It's 10:30 am. Do you have anything to eat. Not until noon. I must have looked desperate because she asks me something, which of course I don't understand other than the word "sweet" and I said I don't know, and she leaves. She comes back saying something about potatoes and tomatoes. That's all I understood. I said Yes. It'll be something to eat:). And I got a plate of various cold salads all with mayo dressing, some slices of salami and a slice of melon. Great! When I finish she asks me if I want something sweet. Yes. 12 € ($16) later I have a belly and information of a town that had a grocery store (the Super U:))! That was my first meal in France. I'll have to try again when the kitchen is really open. I don't think restaurants will be cheap here.


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Je Continue

September 4, 2014
Coutances, France

I'd call this day a nero. Nearly a zero (for zero miles pedaled). But I got somethings understood. Got some map photos at the book store (the clerk even helped me), spoke more French (even helped a British woman communicate at the coffee counter), got blogs posted, mail read, and other internet chores done, and got to speak English with 2 British families:). A cute story about the one family on vacation (it was the mom I helped with my suave French) is about the 7 yr old's lost tooth. Catch this: he doesn't want to put the tooth under his pillow while on vacation in France because Euros are useless to him! Better to wait until he gets back home to England and gets pounds Sterling! I love it! How astute is he? Love the minds of kids!!!

Now I'm on a cycle path just outside of town that wound back away from the busy main road and I think this will be my home for the night. Stopping at 4 o'clock seemed a bit early but a rest day feels good. And I know a farmer won't be stopping by here tonight:)

September 6, 2014
South of Ducey, France

I did move on a bit that night to an even better meadow just around the bend so that I could enjoy the evening sun and I did!




And the next day I kept my needle pointed to Avranches but bless me, I turned towards the coast late in the day and decided to pay for a campground. Read: shower, laundry, wifi, and even maybe company. I got it all! Although the wifi was nothing to write home about...but they did have a nice pool, so add a swim to the list.

And then wasn't I blessed this morning with a slow, leisurely (aren't all my rides this way?) ride along the Bay of Mont St Michael with views of it all along the way.



It's that point in the middle. I believe it was an abbey a long time ago. I visited it when I was 18 but have little memory of it. I just know it's really built up now and too many people is not my thing. I did happen upon a delightful museum about life in the bay: geology, plants and fish, fishing on foot and harvesting sea salt. The English on the signs outside led me to believe there would be English subtitles inside. I was led astray:(. But I did find I understood enough.

I have a bit of good news about my phone. There's some sort of cell signal with this useless SIM card and it gives me my location on Google maps! Wahoo! I'm not lost!! Today I went to McDonalds to use wifi...yuck...but when I asked Google to give me a bicycle route through the city to help me get across, it came back with No Routes! Oh no! That's why I asked it, because I couldn't see one. But I figured out a way around it, never getting into traffic. And I was gifted at the end of the day by the guy at the patisserie where I stopped to buy bread with free bread and these couchettes (don't hold me to the name, but their mini popovers coated in sugar glaze...and yummy...to make me strong, he said:)). He kept asking me about my journey and I stumbled along trying to explain. I love it when they don't give up on me and keep talking! It makes for conversation. And I'm hungry to talk, as you can well imagine.

Then along the cycle path out of town, I met Regina on her recumbent. She and her husband have ICE trikes too. She's on her annual week long solo bike tour. She spoke English, but I found it hard to leave my French.




Tonight I'm in a No Camping woods, but on the edge with the "pique-nique" tables. I don't think anyone will bother me. Mosquitoes are back. Yuck! Started last night. Just enough to annoy me and drive me I to my tent early.

"Be careful what you wish for." Remember when I was cold, wet, and wind-blown? Not any more. Hot and dry and still. Hmmm.

I'm struggling with a direction to head. That's why I love following coast lines. So simple. Do I want to cross the Alps? Head to the coast? Go down the middle? Where to go? What to do? When to fly to Australia? From where? These are decisions I always struggle with. Too many options. Any input?

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman