Closing Out 2012

December 29th
Nelson, South Island NZ



I finally got to sleep after 10 pm. No more Energy drinks after 10 am. Around 5:30, I heard voices. I don't like to hear voices when I'm stealth camped. There's not suppose to be people around. These were young voices. Guys and a girl. Light. Laughing. I couldn't see out that side so I don't know where they were. They just quieted down and I went back to sleep. Awoke at a more reasonable hour...7 am...and while out taking care of business, I hear a gun shot. Holy shit! Is it hunting season here?

What a wet night! Nothing dried in the tent and there were puddles of water under my panniers. I used all my cloths: bandannas, towel, and sarong to mop things up. Much soggier than last summer. Not sure why. Smaller space is part of it. With my 2 person, double vestibule tent, my panniers stay outside giving me more room. I'm sure I'll get a rhythm going and figure out how to negotiate the challenges.

Packed up. Hauled the gear through the gate. Pushed the bike through. A flat! Back tire. I had just put a new tube in there because it was flat after the flight. I didn't check the tire though. And this morning there was a thorn on the inside...only...nothing outside...no hole or mark. So I used my tweezers and finally got it pulled out, patched the tube, and it's rolling so much faster. I probably was mostly flat most of the day. Oops.

I roughly knew this road had two hills on it and I only crossed one yesterday so...the big one must be ahead. The one that on a profile map was HUGE. Dread. Yesterday was hard enough. Oh well. It's morning. I'm refreshed. Lets go. Up. Down. Down. Down. No hill? I crossed it yesterday? Sweet!!!! So I rolled into Nelson along a delightful bicycle path along the water. And what's that green grassy park to my left? Hmmm. Tonight's campsite, perhaps. Don't want to pay for a hostel if I don't need to. Money is getting really tight. Having to watch every penny. NZ is not cheap.

Made a To Do List for today. First, get cash. Down to last $5. What? Unable to process? Again. Smaller amount. No go. Ok. This is not good. Can't view my account online and now can't access funds. Yikes! That makes the stomach roll a bit. Go to Internet cafe. Pay $4 for 30 minutes. Skype credit union. Funds too low. Make transfer. Cards ok. Go back to same ATM. No go. Arrghh! Try a different ATM. In luck! Flush for now.

Now what about a hotspot for my devices so I can have Internet anywhere. Tech shop. No can do with iPhone and iPad. Need laptop. Also found out that my 3G iPad doesn't seem to have a SIM card slot. Could someone let me know if a Wifi + 3G iPad (Verizon) has a SIM card slot? Or did I not get what I ordered? And I'm too far away to fix it. There are no Apple stores here. And things in the States aren't the same in the rest of the world. Not going to worry about that one.

If you aren't seeing updates it's because I can't find wifi. Maybe I'll have to go back to journaling on my old phone that has a NZ SIM card. It's got limited phone, text, and data allowance... But I could upload I think. If I have the app in there. Too much to think about.

Had a pleasant thing happen. I was sitting in Starbucks (you get 30 min with a purchase) checking mail, and my iPhone that's turned onto airplane mode rings! What's this! It's Avery Facetiming me. What a surprise. Turns out the credit union supervisor trying to resolve my login issue called her trying to get me. Since she's on the account, he was able to relay info about it to me. They had changed it to emailing a code. But when I tried to log in to see if it would work...it went right in! Yay!!! shhh. Don't tell them they turned off the new security. At least for now:))

Did all my errands and decided to camp tonight so I pedaled back to that park. Lovely spot. Gorgeous Japanese gardens where I'm hanging out now. So peaceful. Not cycling on today. Got a better offer. The guy I met a couple of days ago in Picton called and asked if I'd like a lift over some of these hills since he's having to drive this way to check out a boat motor. Of course i said "Sure:)". Maybe I'll get to hear the rest of the boat story. Needs a new motor? Hmmm.

It's getting chilly as the sun is clouded over. Guess I'll go scope out a spot for tonight's sleep.

Zzzzz:)



December 31st
Kumara, South Island NZ



(Yup thats a bridge that is shared by cars and...TRAINS!!!)

It's been a whirlwind couple of days. And such fun! Bruce picked me up in Nelson as I watched the rain pour heavily down, glad I wasn't going to be cycling in it. We took a quick tour up to Motueka where he has to measure something and then up to Kaiteriteri beach, voted the best beach of New Zealand. It was golden sand in a large cove with huge rock islands and turquoise water...but way to crowded for my tastes. Guess word got out! We spotted a smaller cove and looked for a road down to it. When we found it, there were signs everywhere about Private Road...Residents Only.. And Bruce proceeded to drive on down. My kind a guy:). I'm always accused of saying "But they don't mean me!" This was more my style: cozy and quiet. Got my feet wet on one coast, sorta.

(See photo at beginning of blog)

Then we drove on over to the West Coast and I got to see the area I wasn't biking. There's always a bitter sweetness for me when I'm driving over an area that I had expected to bike. I miss a lot of it, sadly so, because you just don't get the view. But I have lots of NZ to see and I got to bike an area I wouldn't have otherwise...you'll hear that story later.

First I have to tell you about Joe. This is his front gate.



Are ya getting an idea of this guy? He's a treasure! Bruce met him when he stopped in after seeing his gate. He's gotten to know him and stops by when he's in the area. Supposedly there's a boat motor he wants to buy but listening to the conversation between those two, they didn't really discuss that transaction. Joe collects antique Fords and I got to see his collection. I think there were 8 of them in mint condition, a couple that had never been refurbished. He even had a racer that he started up for me. After sharing a cup of tea we continued my guided tour of the area.



Besides being a competitive sailor on some 40ft something, he's an endurance athlete, I guess you'd call it. They have this annual event called the Coast to Coast. (You should google it.). I got to see the layout of this:

DAY 1
3 k run from beach
70 km bike uphill into the Southern Alps
26 km run up a rocky river bed

DAY 2
18 km cycle
70 km kayak
70 cycle to Christchurch

And there's also a One Day event also on the same course that you have to qualify for. Bruce has done them both. I was favorably impressed:)


(Feet in the ocean on the west coast...note the need for a jacket!)

After viewing all the different transition points for this crazy competition, we continued up into a wide open valley with the river flowing madly through it and mountains all around. Due to the continued drizzle of the day, we had dinner under the bridge. But the skies did clear and I got my first viewing of the stars in the Southern Hemisphere. I felt quite lost looking up. I think I need to get a star book and see if I can learn a few of their constellations.

Oh I forgot to mention that I was also watching the temperature drop on the dash as we drove higher into the mountains. It got down to the mid 40's...but I only have my summer bag with me. Good to 50*. Yikes! Had to break out the merino wool! But I was fine. Got just the right gear...makes all the difference

Cold, crisp evening air;snow-capped mountains; nearly full moon. Good job, Bruce! Couldn't have ordered up a more spectacular night camping in the mountains of New Zealand. It's one I won't forget!



Bruce, my tour guide and trail angel!

And then a rainbow the next morning!


So I said I was going to get to bike a different area. And this was it. I was going to get pushed off of Arthur's Pass today to cycle back down to the West. Coast and continue on my journey. A sunny morning didn't last and by the time we had breakfast and I charged up my devices, I'd delayed as much as possible, and it was "sprinkling" outside when we headed up to the pass. Dark, cold, and rainy. 42*. Brrr. And it's always colder blasting down a mountain. Oh well. Now or never. Got Blaze all loaded back up hoping I hadn't left anything in the van. Pack explosion is never easy and always makes me nervous that I've forgotten something. I also had to bundle up because it was going to be a cold run. Buff under helmet, gloves with rain mitts over, pants and socks, fleece and raincoat. I'm ready.



And off I went! I had to put my arm up to block the pain of the raindrops as they pelted my face. 16% grade it said. Wheeee!!!!! Quite a scenic and spectacular ride down for a ways. But it seemed to level out sooner than I expected, and wasn't as easy as I was led to believe. I had to pedal UP some dips and dives and didn't make it all the way back out to the coast before deciding to find a campsite around 6 pm. But the views were to die for and even though we'd driven up the road, it was all different views coming down.:) The forested areas along the road were far too dense to camp in. And there are some serious pricker bushes too. Down nearer civilization I found a back road that goes back to some kind of new large pipeline. Works for me. Hardest part is usually a challenge of getting the stakes in the ground. Rocks holding them are often required.

In for the night. Will be chilly again, I can tell. But I'm sure not in the 40's

Happy New Year! I'm sipping my wine and although alone this New Year's Eve, my heart is full of gratitude for an incredible 2012 and all the new friends I've made!!!!

Started in Hawaii.
Then California and Florida visiting my girls
Home to unpack and repack
Biking Ireland, Wales, England, Holland, Germany.
Home again
Maine and hiking 100 Mile Wilderness and touring the coast
Home to pack
Singapore, Malaysia, islands of Thailand, then.....

New Zealand!!!!!

What a year! Wonder what the Universe has in store for me next year....hmmm?

Can't wait to find out!

BagLady



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I'm a Pedaling New Zealand!

December 27th
Havelock, South Island NZ

Last night I took the ferry to the South Island. Some folks I met at the grocery store near Moa's suggested I could camp at the little town park just off the ferry in town. "By the time they go to kick you off, you'll be packed up to go." It took me a little while to find it because I came in at a terminal different from what the couple said. But my new Google map app has maps available even if it doesn't show me where I am...so I was able to find the right street, pulled into the park, find a spot behind the rose garden hidden from the bright light. Windy stormy night, but I was snug and happy to be camping:)

Breakfast in town brought engaging conversation with Bruce from Auckland who "accidentally bought a boat". Hope I get to hear the rest of that story when I get up that way next month:)

The road west is a rolling road with good grade that was totally doable. And the views were to die for...green mountains and waterways...beaches and turquoise water. And hydrangea grows wild here. Picked some and attached it to Blaze's nose. Saw some other loaded cyclists...some passed me quietly...others waved from the other side. Met a guy hiking and told him he needed to look into "ultralight". He had a huge backpack, a full front pack, a large tent dangling from one hand and a satchel in the other! And he'd come from Pitt Head which is probably about 100 kms from here. But he was happy and upbeat. I suggested when he got home that he should think about everything he took out of the pack...did he use it? how often? could something else have done double duty?

Got into Havelock, a coastal town, about 4:30 and the hostel said it had tent sites and free wifi. Well, I'm in the backyard next to the picnic table and the free wifi was 30 min free...then $4 an hour. oh well...I did get all my devices charged and that was needed.

I'm lovin' being back on the road and camping. Plus it's much cooler here...at least today. Christmas Day broke a 78 year record hitting 90*! Today was probably in the high 60's. And overcast. Great biking weather, for sure!

December 28th
Hwy 6 east of Nelson
In a gravelly clearing sleeping on rocks and stinging nettle:)

After a delightful first day, the 2nd day started off with issues first thing. (This is BagLady's Travels and Torments, so I get to bitch some time:)). My credit union has charged its security access and I'm locked out. It requires a texted code to your cell phone but the format doesn't allow for international numbers. Because it said I only had to do this once to recognize my device I thought I was all set when I skyped my daughter, Avery, and had the code sent to her phone and then she relayed it to me and I entered it. IN! Done! Not so! It doesn't recognize devices, it recognizes your device on the same location. But every day I'm on a different wifi network. Gotta redo every time. So I skyped the credit union trying to see if there was a work around and my Internet time ran out. Prepaid wifi. Not free in NZ. Another gripe of mine. No resolution. I guess if I want to review my account I have to schedule a call to Avery in her evening and at the same time have wifi access myself. Banks are my biggest issue traveling. Enough said. Shuck all that negative energy.

Tough ride today. Hills. And all of Malaysia was pretty flat so I feel very out of shape. The first long climb I was going only feet before stopping and resting. Slow and steady. Best part was I guessed wrong at how long the climb was and I was at the top before I expected. Pleasant surprise.

Rain is the other issue today. Out came the umbrella:). But it was quite heavy at times.

Around 5 o'clock I started looking for a spot to camp. I had seen great locations earlier in the day, but now nothing seemed to be showing. I'm in the mountains. No roads off to the side. Only deep ditches. No farms. And a major climb before Nelson is expected so when I started climbing and the rain got heavier, I was concerned about having to set up a strange tent in the rain. Trying to keep things dry us always a challenge when the outside of everything is already wet.

Do I see a mountain road winding up the hillside? It's got to have an entrance somewhere. That might work. What? It's gated? Arrghh! But there are large openings in the gate. Maybe I can unload Blaze and slip her through. Lets wander around and see if there's a place to camp. Not the smoothest ground. Lots of rocks and stinging nettle. Sorta flat. Will stakes go in? I'll make them! Rain's letting up. Let's try it. Pull the panniers. Carry them over. Pull all the flags and other paraphernalia had haul it to the "campsite". Lift Blaze's front wheels through. The seat's to high. Quick release and drop it back. There. She's through. That wasn't too bad. Now lets see about the tent. Rocks everywhere. Weeds. Thorns. Borrowed tent. Gotta take care. Tyvek dropcloth will protect. Stomp the weeds. Pound in the stakes with a rock. Barely go in. Get it up. Get inside with all wet panniers. Water everywhere. This tent is adorable and a backpacking model I love (Henry Shire's Rainbow Tarptent) but its smaller than the 2 person Big Sky tent I used in Europe last summer so there's less space for all the wet gear. And now that I'm inside, it's all cockeyed and not well set up. If it stops raining I'll try to fix it.

Dry off. Change clothes. Dry tent floor. Man, this has got to be the worst site I've ever had. Lumpy. Downhill. Wet clothes everywhere. And last night it looked so orderly. I'm out of control.

But dinner was good. Started with sips of wine. Yes! Moa's family gave me this great bottle of wine for Christmas that came in a plastic screw top bottle! Just made for hiker bikers! Definitely a treat after today. Then I had pâté on crackers. Yup! Can't come to NZ and not eat the meat! I've been enjoying it immensely!! And Nutella for dessert. Good thing I didn't plan on cooking tonight because the rain us not letting up.

As awkward as this spot is, I don't think anyone will see me and tell me to move. And I always manage to sleep somehow. The only thing I'm missing is a book. I left the heavy one I was carrying behind and the ones I thought I had downloaded to my iPhone don't seem to really reside on it. They seem to need Internet to come up. Guess ill have to listen to my audiobook tonight.

Oh, ya, the scenery...amazing! Steep, pointing mountains, lush hillsides, sheep, cows, and fast drivers coming awfully close. Can't say I wasn't warned. And I wear my helmet except when I'm climbing and just can't take the extra heat from it. We'll see if that argument holds with a cop:)

Tents leaking from one spot. Oh! Oh! Seems to be on a seam. I have sealer with me. Maybe I can seal it if I can mark it somehow. Hmmm.

Enough babbling. I've bored everyone I'm sure. Easy to tell when I'm alone, isn't it!

G'day...G'night...

BagLady




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Christmas Down Under

Christmas Eve, 2012
Wellington, New Zealand



Moa and me.


Kiwi and me.

I have been a bit amiss in writing my blog since I landed in New Zealand. Been busy! Been recuperating! Been socializing! Been relaxing. Been sightseeing. Been Xmas shopping, just a wee bit. Been reading books of local celebs. Been learning the mass transit system. Been doing laundry. Been collecting camping gear (since I arrived with little). Been learning the lay of the land. Been making reservations. Been meeting new people. Been hosted. Been roasted. Been hiking. Been biking (not much).

And I haven't left Wellington yet:)

After 4 fun filled days with Moa and Prue, eating wonderful food, running errands for equipment, joining holiday parties, and touring the local countryside...I moved over to Kiwi and Alison's house nearby. And again, great food, holiday parties, and tours of the countryside. It's been most fun catching up with Kiwi and Moa, reminiscing days on the PCT and hearing about the things they're doing now. And then to meet their wives was just wonderful. Two of the most delightful women you'd ever want to know. These guys done good:) I've never felt more at home and welcome...like part of the family. Thank you, Prue and Alison for all you two have done to make me feel comfortable and not a burden (even if I have been:))



Prue.



Kiwi and Alison.

They have this unbelievable native preserve that a friend of Alison's (that I met the other night) took me to. Zealandia. There was a natural area of regrowth with native plants around 2 dams and a decision was made to fence it in and remove all predators, like possums and mice and feral cats. And they've done it. And the bird population all over Wellington has dramatically increased. And we're not talking about a small area...over 500 acres!

Wellington is the cutest city. It's in a bowl that faces the sea, of course. And the roads are steep...so are people's driveways. It's not a town for cyclist unless you love hills. The houses are all different designs, built into the hillside, with lots of windows! Some are old and some are new and I love them all.

And, for all those friends who think I'm weird for leaving my front door open with no screen door...it's common practice here. I just live in the wrong place!

And the city is vibrant and clean and a joy to walk through. Mass transit by bus or train. Te Papa, the Museum of New Zealand is free! The modern buildings and walkways and gathering places near the water are all beautifully and interesting,y designed. A small city. Easy to get to and then get around with parks all around. I can see why people love this place.


Christmas Day



Christmas here is a day ahead of the US so that seemed a bit odd. After a quiet morning at "home" that always passes too quickly, Moa picked me up to join him and his family in their Christmas afternoon: picnic at the botanical gardens including improvised cricket, resting back at the house on the hottest Christmas since 1934...90*!, and then a scrumptious dinner of roast lamb and pork and ham. Yum! We had Christmas Crackers...and you don't eat them!...exchanged trinket gifts that were fun to play with...and had a cherry spitting contest! Quite the day of fun with a wonderfully loving family. Really a treat for me! Thanks to all for a merry Christmas!



Boxing Day. December 26th

Last day in Wellington for a month. Tidied up the Craig's house, packed up Blaze, called my daughters to wish them a Merry Christmas, and pedaled over to Moa and Prue's for a last afternoon and meal before launching off to the South Island. I felt so at home there, like part of the family. And I feel truly recuperated and prepared for this journey. Got my camping gear, guides, maps, food, and new hi viz pannier covers! Doing good!

I'm on the ferry right now and it's a foggy rainy night. Sure hope my return crossing is on a clear sunny day so I can enjoy the views. Not so tonight. Might as well catch a bit of shut eye. Tonight I land at and hope to camp right in town at a park.

I've had to prepare myself to be "self-contained" for freedom camping here, as they call it. No waste deposited. Scoop the poop. We do it for dogs, why not for humans. That's the plan, not to be disgusting. Hope I impress any officials who might stop me. Another rule is helmets required. Have to say I'm a bit frustrated by that one. And only for one reason: heat. Always an issue. And most heat is released through the top of the head. And I notice the challenge of staying cool wearing this darn thing. I don't think most people appreciate how awful it feels to be firing hot flashes. I feel sick. My cheeks burn. I want to rip my clothes off. It's awful. And doing anything to lower my body temperature feels like life or death. So that's why when I'm already warm and I'm exerting creating heat and the helmet is holding heat in my head and when I lift it I feel a touch of cool, then I want to rip it off. Can you understand just a bit better the dilemma I'm in? Just a bit. It's not a minor issue. It's major!

G'day


Kathryn

My Blog: www.thebaglady07.blogspot.com

My Photos: picasaweb.google.com/104890875270597877610

Sent from my iPhone


BagLady

More pictures are posted at:

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Missing Posts

I think an explanation is needed for some of you who are getting my posts by email. The post you just got via email, "Changing the Plans", was actually written and miled a week ago. As you know, I'm using Google Groups to distribute these emails. And it has the wonderful feature where it puts some emails into a "pending" status suspecting that the email may be spam. Of course I receive no notification of this, so unless I pay close attention to see if they email came into my mail account, I don't know that y'all didn't get it. So that's why some of you had no idea why I was in New Zealand.

Hope that helps you understand why things are out of order,


BagLady

More pictures are posted at:

https://picasaweb.google.com/104890875270597877610

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Get Me Outta Here!

Friday, Dec 14th
Leaving Phuket Thailand

I'm on my flight to NZ, but getting out of Thailand was the departure from hell...and it wasn't Blaze that was the issue. Really! It was immigration into NZ. Lots of confusion around the visa laws. Supervisor requested. Immigration official from Australia consulted. NZ immigration called. Unbelievable. I had researched this online at NZ Immigration website. US passports required no visa. And I was required, if I did not have an outbound ticket, to be able to show a credit card statement showing I had sufficient funds to buy said ticket. I was prepared to do that. No go. Because the airline flying me in can be liable for a penalty if I do not meet immigration requirements, they can make their own requirements and they were requiring I have an outbound ticket. I didn't have one. You can go upstairs to the Internet cafe and purchase one online. Really? Now? You will also need a visa for Australia because your layover is longer than 8 hours...8 hours and 10 minutes! Now I had spent most of my last Bhatt getting a taxi part way to the airport because the hills were so steep and it was so humid that my hot flashes were firing in overdrive and nothing would cool me down. So now I had to pay for the Internet 100 B leaving me just 20 B or 7 cents. Ok. Buy a refundable ticket as the Australian immigration agent suggested. Have no clue what I'll pay when I cancel that. Go back downstairs where they were watching my bike and gear. Got it. Showed them a photo I took of the confirmation. Tricky huh? Then gave them the same credit card I bought the ticket with to pay the visa fee to spend 8 hours in Australia. Declined. OMG! Can it get any worse? Gave them a 2nd card I had. It worked. Now they sent me to the back of the line to check in. Wait. Wait. Wait. The supervisor steps in to do my check in. Another phone call about the bicycle. I guess that went okay. They had my luggage tags printed, but then cancelled them and reprinted. Finally they said I was "Done"!!! 3.5 hours from arrival to check in completed. Is that a new record? Glad I showed up way early! Actually packing went great. I use one yellow pannier as carry-on and then bundled the pods around the other pannier with straps I had and bungie cords. I taped my flags and umbrella to the trike's boom as Dennis had suggested (thanks for that one!). Good to go! That all worked fabulously!

But the oddities didn't end there. Seems Australian airlines don't let you bring any water on board and they check your carry on for it at the gate. In fact security was another heavy thing. Everything was scanned as I entered the airport. Then I did my thing and built my bundle before finding out they do a physical search of your checked baggage. I handed them my bundle with a sad face. He decided to just ask me what was on there. Then some Aussies I met handed me zip ties to lock everything so that drugs weren't stuffed into my luggage. Then upstairs there was the usual gate screening. And then again at the gate a physical search of our carry ons. Something else! That's for sure. I managed to find a bottled water dispenser to get a drink at the gate. Good thing. It was an hour and a half after take off before they brought drinks around. Also, another Aussie mentioned that you had to bring or buy food. So I got a Subway tuna, no lettuce or tomato, sub. Something "safe":). When they finally did come round, they served food. My sub tasted better!

Ok. Time for sleep.

Well that didn't happen. It's 2am and I've been trying to sleep for a couple of hours. Nada. Maybe it's because I realized that I was very attentive in the craziness at check-in and didn't notice that she only booked me to Sydney. That's why I bought that refundable ticket out of NZ...so she would ticket me INTO NZ. So now I have to clear customs with all my stuff and go to the ticket counter and try again to get to NZ. The only thing I'm suspecting is that for some reason my refundable ticket didn't book, although it says it did. It was declined when I tried to pay for the Australian visa with it. It's the only cc I have with me besides my debit card.

So sleep evades me. I'll be one tired puppy when I finally get to Wellington. Luckily it'll be after midnight bu the time I get to my friends' house and I can say Hi and Goodnight in one breath:)

Next adventure will be what happens in Sydney. Will I actually get to fly to NZ today?

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Changing the Plans

12-12-12
Phi Phi Island, Thailand



After traveling together for 6 weeks, Sylvia and I went our separate ways today. It was my decision for the culmination of many reasons, none the least is being sick in Asia...again. And when you're sick here, the conditions and smells become intolerable and heighten the nauseousness. This happened when I trekked in Nepal and those feelings were not far from the surface when I was making my decision to come here with Sylvia. It took me 2 months to decide. Asia's not easy for westerners...even less so for sick westerners.



And two strong, independent woman traveling together had its own set of challenges. Leading, following, reading each other, meeting our own needs, trying to meet the other's. It's like a dance and some couples do it well and others struggle. I was struggling. Sylvia was struggling. I stopped the struggle. And we managed to stay friends through the coming apart:). And we struggled with that, too. And I learned so much watching Sylvia in her environment. She's got this touring thing nailed. My shyness makes me hold back in situations where S comfortably moved right into the scene. Well done!

Since I could not imagine traveling through Asia by bike alone, I decided to head to New Zealand which has been on my list for years. Since I'm here. But the air fare was not much cheaper than flying from the states. Holiday rates! Going higher every day. So I'm moving fast hopping from island to island trying to get to the Phuket airport for a Friday night flight.

I have hiker friends in NZ: The Flying Kiwis - Kiwi and Moa. I met these guys (my age group) on the PCT(Pacific Crest Trail, for those who don't know) 2 years ago. And a quick note to them a couple of days ago brought open arms, open houses, and open hearts. Rescued! I think traveling where I can camp again and eat salads will be the answer. And I have time to hike and bike! Should be great! Of course I'm coming with no prior planning or preparations...on a whim. I have to gear up after I arrive. Some I'll borrow. Some I'll buy. It will all work out.

So there ya have it. Decisions are made. Remain flexible. Change plans as the need arises. I was brought up with the saying "You've made your bed now you have to lay in it." But I always modified it to "If you don't like the bed, change the sheets! ".

Sheets have been changed,

BagLady

More pictures are posted at:

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Dec 2 - Dec 8
Malaysia to Thailand
Koh Lipe, Thailand



I'm getting closer to getting caught up. I wish I could use the ferry travel time to write, but I'd be puking. I have to take something as it is.

We arrived in Penang from the ferry with plans to stay at a Homestay friend of Khalib's. I had memorized the route, but failed to notice One Way roads. Darn. That really messes me up and when cycling through a city, I hate to be messed up:).

But a quick look at a map and we're back on track. This guesthouse is on what appears to be a residential street. But perhaps it wasn't when two nights one of the houses appeared to be having a funeral service with tents off from the house, tables and covered chairs underneath, a small temple set up in the houses doorway and further back a coffin. Lots of chants and music too. At first glance we thought it was a wedding. They use a lot of color for both.

Penang was our city for collecting our visa for Thailand. While there we met the cutest young Dutch guy, Lukas, who has been bumming around the world for 1000 days. He recently bought a bicycle in Hobart, Australia and is cycling home to Holland. We had to apply in the morning, leaving our passports, and return in the pm to get them back. We hooked up in the pm with Lukas and went sightseeing through old Georgetown while Lukas experienced and photographed the "trike effect". He said it was fun to watch the reactions everyone had to us! It was fun hearing his interpretations on the fun and challenges of travel. Thanks, Lukas! It was fun sharing laughs with you. Safe and adventurous travels:))



We spent another day checking out ferry arrangements to Langkawi, an island to the north of Penang...and touring wealthy mansion museums and the historic architecture of Georgetown. Wish I'd had time to do som hiking but I'll have to save that for when I come back.


One of the different and interesting foods we had were apom...pancakes...actually crepes! The vendor had a cart with 6 pots of charcoal going and each had a crepe pan on it. He would cook 6 at once, like playing a musical instrument as he moved the lids from one to another, checked them and flipped them. Sold as a set of 6 served on a banana leaf for $1. Hard work!


The ferry was going to be a couple of hours so I took a Dramamine and after a short stint on deck, found a row of seats and crashed. I was really knocked for a loop.

Langkawi is quite a mountainous island and after landing we checked in the Information office to get the scoop. It was basically the town near this ferry terminal and the beaches on the west coast. I opted for the beach, but we decided to avoid the quieter coast road because it was hillier. Well, the drug was still in me and every time we stopped I struggled to stay awake. I was okay pedaling though. When we hit the beach strip we knew there were a lot of budget motels but the first 2 we stopped at we're full. And it was about 3 or 4 pm. I was getting concerned. This place was hopping! So when we found one with a room that could handle our bikes we took it. It was very industrial and basic. Not cheap either. $33 per night. But I needed sleep so as I crashed to sleep off that darn drug, Sylvia found a beach cafe with wifi.

Joining her later there for dinner was when I ate the salad. What was I thinking!!! I know better! Guess I was feeling invincible. Well about 4 hours later the problem began. That was Wed evening. Up most of the night in the bathroom or in bed barfing into a gallon ziplock. What a storm! And I'd gone to bed about 7:30. I didn't climb out of that bed until 12:30 the next afternoon.

By Friday I felt good enough to go with S to look for a new place to stay...and we found these cute bungalows for almost half the price...but with no A/C...just a fan. So now I'm sick and hot. Not a good combination. Using wet towels to try and cool my body down and a second, small fan that I brought I tried to sleep. This is just not a good place for a women with hot flashes. I'm trying to find ways to cope but it's not easy. And S hasn't really experienced this problem so I know she's having a hard time understanding how miserable I really am. I'm trying!

When I felt better we made plans to keep moving northward...by ferry. So the next stop was Koh Lipe, a tiny island in southern Thailand. The ferry guy actually drove us to the embassy office on Langkawi to get our passport stamped before hopping the afternoon ferry. We got to see a bit more if the island that way too!

This ferry was a speedboat for about 40 people but S and I and a young guy, Hus, from London were the only passengers. Our private yacht! The trikes were nestled in the bow and the stern. And we ride up on the now in the salty air! It was a beautiful day for an hour long cruise. Half tablet of D this time worked great and no sleepies.

That morning, since my little stomach issue was not going away, I started a course of Metronidazole. I had these tablets I'd ordered off the Internet last fall when I had that bout of Giardia. It was also the final antibiotic I used successfully in Nepal when I got the stomach bug there. So when this didn't clear up in a couple of days I decided to ATTACK!

So back to arriving in Thailand. As we're approaching we're not seeing a dock. Hmmm? How's this going to work? We have these bikes! Well, they back in almost to the beach and start hefting Myrtle over the stern with 2 guys carrying her to shore. Well that worked well, but Blaze is in the bow. They try to take her through the opening into the passenger area. Not gonna fit. So the next thing I see, they're carrying her around walking on the narrow gunnel to get her to the stern. After I gather my things and look up, Blaze is being carried to shore like royalty on this guy's shoulder!!





We're here! In Thailand! And it's beautiful!

After another immigration step done at the beach, with our passports being hustled off somewhere to be stamped again, we get the bikes and our gear off the beach and out of the blazing sun. By now, I'm dragging. I haven't eaten anything much in a couple of days and I'm thirsty and I'm coming apart at the seams. We have no Bhatt only Ringetts with us, but manage to get someone to sell me some water for a couple of ringett. We need to exchange some money to pay for a place to stay and we have to figure out where to go. There are no cars here, only scooters... some with sidecars. There's like a paved walkway across the island and sandy, ditched roads to other locations...like where we need to go. "Cheapest accommodations are in the middle...in the jungle." We look at the cheapest. One bed. Really primitive. Not doing it. The next jungle place is high-end and out of our budget. But we looked anyways. Very nice. Too steep for the bikes. So then we head to Sunrise Beach where we're told we should find something for around $20. Looking. Looking. Hard to figure out the funny map. We turn into Varin Village and the guy tells S there's one bungalow left. Lets look. Well we usually get 2 beds but had discussed we may need to share one sometime. Sometime is now. Cute bamboo bungalow one row back from the beach but there staggered so it works ...we have a view! Fan. Mosquito netting. $22.50. We'll take it!


BagLady

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Oops...forgot durian photo

Get ready...









It must be an acquired taste....and i wont be in Malaysia long enoughh to acquire it:)

BagLady

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Too Many Stories & No Time to Write

Nov 29 - Dec 2
Penang, Malaysia

I'm getting further and further behind in my journal...guess I'm too busy touring! That's a good thing, yes?



I don't think y'all need a day by day blow but I'll try and capture the highlights. When we left Kuala Kangsar, our plan was to keep heading towards the coast and Penang, even though Khalib had invited us to his house. It looked too far east for us to wind that way...we're too slow for major side trips! So Khalib agreed to meet us in our next town and take us for a tour of Taiping, a town we passed that day..Ok...we agreed. He met us with almost the whole family: wife, Norani; daughter, Karmelia; and two sons, Hadi and Harkim. It's always nice to be able to tour a city with locals and this was no exception. The best was walking through this large, well-landscaped park with the mountains in the background. Earlier in the evening, after arriving at the hotel, I realized I had left my shorts (my only pair of shorts, mind you!) back at the hotel in Kuala Kungsar! Not a good situation. I need those shorts. It's what I wear post cycling EVERY day. When you have few clothes with you already, losing a pair is critical. Now you have to understand my memory is very poor and I'm not SURE I left them at the hotel. I just know I can't find them anywhere in my stuff. Not anywhere. Ok. Call the hotel. What's the number? Did we save our receipt? Of course not. Why carry unnecessary papers? Google it. A room rate page came up but nothing with a phone number. Ok. Aswad is back in that town. Text him and ask him to check. He says he will! Waiting. Waiting. No response. Tour Taiping with Khalib and fam. No answer. Mention problem to Khalib. He calls Aswad. He's going over to hotel at 8:30 pm and if he finds them he'll mail them ahead. But Khakib has kindly offered to drive all the way back to KK to help me get them. But remember, I still don't know the hotel has them. I sure do t want to drive all that way for nada... zippo. But away we go. And it's not a short trip. And of course it's raining...if its evening, it's always raining:) so I text Aswad that we're coming back. So he plans to meet us at the hotel. It's like we just couldn't say goodbye. Just like with Mama Ching. We saw her the next night too! Are they there? Are they there? THEY ARE!!!! ( they're not as big as they look...they're unzipped and wide open...:))


Happy reunion! So we all go out for drinks to celebrate: finding my shorts, bike touring, friendship! It's a great world, isn't it?!

Now during this long evening, mostly spent driving by Khalib, he managed to convince us to come to his house and stay a few days.

So we agreed to head over to Khalib's house in Serdang and spend a couple of nights with his family in rural Malaysian home. "You'll hear the creatures in the wood sat night!" My kind of living!!

Khalib wanted to meet us on the road so he cycled out from his house, starting way before we had even had breakfast. Guess he didn't realize how slow we go...even getting started in the morning:). He met up with us only a couple of miles down the road. The delightful thing I remember from this day's ride was the dirt poor farmer selling rambutan on the side of the road running out to me to give me a handfulof this fruit and then going back for a bagful to share with Sylvia. As I cycled away, tears came to my eyes for the kindness of a man with so little. I was really touched.



Khalib's house is in an old plantation with other homes all nestled amongst old palm oil trees.



It's a small house on a cement foundation. Three bedrooms, living room, kitchen, and bath...and the kitchen was full of bikes...10-12, half of them hanging...half of them road bikes, the other half mountain bikes...at least 2 for each family member...and more for him! Oh, the meals Norani made for us were delicious! Amazing the food she could prepare on a small 2 burner stove!

Bathrooms, more specifically toilets have been a source of much discussion for Sylvia and me...and here was no different. There are mostly squat toilets here in Malaysia...some you flush by pulling the cord, some automatically flush, some you flush by scooping water and dumping it in...and I even had a continuously flush the other day that had water running through it! We got the flushing thing down. Now comes the wiping:) Ok, toilet paper is our preference and we've learned to carry napkins from the eateries with us most of the time. And sometimes they have TP, but most often they do not. And I'm dreading the day I have to poop and there's no TP. Will I be able to use the water method that is so common here? In our discussions, we've even googled about it to see if there's a video to teach us how this is even done! How to keep your clothes out of the way, pour the water, and rub clean the designated area...I just can't even fathom how it's all done! I like my TP. And what to do with the TP is another issue. I was flushing it, but in my research I read that the plumbing here can't handle it and that it should be tossed in the trash can if provided. Back to Khalib's... no TP...that's okay, we always carry a roll...no trash can except the kitchen...hate to put poopie paper there! Tote it out in a plastic bag, like I do in the woods? That's what I ended up doing. Problem solved.

The shower was interesting too. A bucket scoop and a large basin filled with water. Hey, it worked great! We noticed they rinse frequently during the day and with this humidity, I can see why.

One day at Khalib's we went with him and his family to a Durian Festival held by his bike club. There we met a bunch of bikers, all interested in our trip...and learned about how to select durian. I even got brave enough to try it, but you'll gather from my expression I won't be trying it again soon! I've gotten used to the smell because it IS the smell of Malaysia...but that bitter taste...Yuck!

Now it's Sunday, the 2nd of Dec and we're off to Penang. Khalib left for Penang last night because he has a mountain bike race there today. That left his wife, Norani, to entertain these crazy American women! And she did great! She has a strong understanding of English, she's just afraid to speak it.

The ride to Penang took us on some back roads. I'd like to bike them more but most most roads between here and there become major roads...the most direct route. We got to a major town and were pedaling by a post office when we decided to stop and mail some postcards. While we were remounting, I saw some bicyclists go by. It's not a common sight here. They got just past the intersection and stopped, and we caught up to them. Turned out they were looking for us! He's a member of Khalib's bike club and had wanted to go to the durian fest but couldn't. Timing is everything. If we hadn't stopped at the PO, we would have missed him. So Koh Cheong Meng took us home for drinks...and he didn't mention the hill to get to his house! He had a very upscale house with all the gadgets! We got a lot of information from him about upcoming routes through Thailand. He was a treat to meet! His wife, Helen, stopped home briefly to meet us and bring Chicken Rice but we weren't ready for lunch. He lead us back to the highway and while shaking our hands handed each of us a packet of Energy and a 50 RM bill to cover our dinner. THANK YOU, KOH and HELEN! You guys are so kind!!!

Pedaling on, we got to the ferry to Penang with no time to spare. They ushered us right on!






BagLady

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Tea Time in the Cameron Highlands

Nov 24 - 28, 2012
Ipoh, Cameron Highlands, Kuala Kangsar

So many days. So much to tell. I have been making notes so I hope I can capture some of it.

We cycled into Ipoh, a little city about the middle of Malaysia, north of Kuala Lumpur. We came here because it's near the Cameron Highlands, a tourist stop that everyone has said we need to see. I'm trying to calculate what day it was that we cycled in to Ipoh. Oh, time just gets so lost...what day, what month, what country! Let me think backwards. Last night we stayed in (gotta look at a map to spell the town name right...)...Bagan Serai, and the night before - Wed night - Kuala Kangsar, and Tues night in Iphoh...and Monday night in Tanah Rata in the Cameron Highlands...and that means we cycled into Ipoh on Saturday because we spent 2 nights there. Oh, it would be so much easier if I wrote every day because my memory is so poor, but it's getting hard to find the time.

Ok, we arrived in Ipoh city and stayed at the Ipoh Boutique Hotel. Here our bikes were stored in a back room and had to be twisted and turned to get through the narrow doorway to get them back there. The people were so helpful and attentive at the hotel. As is our usual timing...the heavens opened with their daily show just after we got settled. We somehow manage to not be caught in these terrific thunderstorms on our bikes...thankfully:)

They next day we laid low, just walking around the city, finding the d town, and getting bus info to Caneron Highlands. It's about 40-50 miles up in the mountains and doesn't look like there are hotels until we get there. With our slow pace (especially uphill) biking it is out of the question. But buses are not high in my preference scale of transport modes...motion sickness is a major issue. Luckily I did bring Dramamine just for such occasions!

Sometimes it's just fun to wander the streets, looking in the shop windows, people watching, sensing the cultural differences. That's how we spent the day.






Monday we had to be at the bus station at 7:30. The hotel agreed to store our bikes and extra gear for the night, so we only took what we needed for one night: sleep clothes, electronics, toothbrush, and pillow! Everything fit in my small backpack. I felt so nimble. Wish I could really travel that light.

OMG. Talk about a twisty, turny mountain road. Even with Dramamine I had trouble by the end of the 2nd hour. But the views were AMAZING! Strawberry fields forever! But you can't see them because they're covered in fabric. And they're grown in self-watering pots. They said they only grow enough up here to sell up here to the locals and the tourists. Yum. I had a strawberry salad, strawberry milkshake, and the next day took a cab back to the strawberry farm for a strawberry float! Now that's the way to eat strawberries!

But I'm ahead of myself. So what else is new?

We finally landed at our destination of Tanah Rata and decided to try and find a hotel first so we could drop Sylvia's bag. (Remember my backpack was already light:)) Since it was only 10 am we needed a place that would let us check in early, too. Most hotels are above the stores, but for whatever reason, we didn't notice them as we wandered the main drag...not a one. We wandered a back street and checked out a couple. I didn't want to spend too much time on a hotel hunt and I wanted to go cheap figuring we wouldn't be hanging around the room like we usually do after a long day's ride, so I jumped on one that I thought would do. That done, we hit the streets...to do what else? EAT!

After are bellies were full, we checked around about tours to the tea plantations, strawberry farms, jungle treks, etc. they weren't cheap. The one that went back in the jungle to see famous Malaysian flower, Rafflasia I think it's called...google it...it's humongous!, that trek would take all day. And we didn't have that. We had 2 half days. So we decided to see about getting a taxi because the plan stations were too far to walk and we didn't have our bikes. Sylvia got the cabbie for 20 ringgit an hour ($7) and off we went to tour the area. It worked out great. First stop was a strawberry farm which is more like a manufacturing plant on the hillside. Acres and acres of these mounded rows of white fabric with the potted strawberries inside. There was cactus and lettuce growing too. And parsley growing in the shade of the strawberry pots. And these huge mounded greenhouses cover the mountainsides. Not a pretty sight, but they sure tasted good!






Next was the tea plantation. Rolling hills of green. The tea trees are chopped short so that the leaves can be easily harvested. They used to be picked by hand but now are mowed with a machine held by two men. The factory was shut down but our cabbie gave us a tour educating us on how the tea is processed. Then on to samples!

Off to our next stop, The Ole Smokehouse, a British homestead that's been converted to a restaurant and hotel. Of course we had to have overpriced tea and scones! While our taxi waited for us! Such royal treatment!!! We scrimp and splurge as the moments present themselves.







The next day we took a cab to another nearby town to explore it, with plans to get the bus back to Ipoh from there. In our wanderings here we came upon a Chinese Buddhist Temple that had enormous statues within.

Another bus trip...back down the mountain...in a rickety old bus...in a MAJOR DOWNPOUR!!! Close your eyes. You're not in control any more. Think positive thoughts. As the bus sways and careens back and forth around hairpin turns. Think: this is the best bus driver in Malaysia! Think: he drives this route every day in the rain. Think: do not attract bad energy with negative thoughts. Now go to sleep. And I did!...sorta.

Our next destination is Georgetown, an island near the northern coast of Malaysia. But we have some new friends to visit along the way. A couple of weeks ago, a man pulled over to take our pictures, buy us water, and talk to us. Khalib. We gave him our blog cards and he friended us on Facebook. He also invited us to visit his home as we got closer to Penang. Definite possibility. He had also told us he had cycled around the world. Wow!

Before leaving Ipoh, he gave us the name of a friend that lived in the next town we were headed to: Kuala Kangsar. We friended him on Facebook and messages him that we would be there in the late afternoon and would call him when we got settled in a hotel.

The best laid plans... We got to a hotel on the main street, settled in, showered, and sent Aswad a Facebook message telling him where we were. We also tried to Skype him but no answer. (The problem with Skype calls is the come in with a strange phone number and most people don't answer those:)). I tried to text him with my phone that has a Malaysian SIM card. I didn't call him because I'm always worried about understanding their speech. It's hard in person...harder on the phone.

So we gave up and hit the town, wandering the streets, checking out the shops, and then deciding to eat. All the while I was looking at my phone for a message. After dinner, we wandered around some more. It's a Royal Town and beautifully maintained, decorated, and lit with colored lights. Around 8 o'clock we got back to the hotel...and guess who was there waiting for us? Aswad. So after he helped us move "the kids" into the hotel lobby for the night, he gave us a tour or the city: the mosque and the palace and all around. Beautiful! Then drinks and stories. His English is quite good and we listened to his wonderful stories of his year biking around the world. He's only in his mid 20s but has seen a lot through bike travel.

Dropping us back at the hotel he said he'd meet us for breakfast and ride out of town with us. Do you realize how slow we go?

Before I sign off this journal I have to share "a first"! I was flashed! Yup! I'm cycling past a large truck parked under a tree and see a man standing in the shadow at the rear of the truck waving his prized possession at me!!! He's not peeing. Nope. That was for my benefit. Yikes! Pedal faster!!!

Pedal on...pedal on,

BagLady

More pictures are posted at:

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