Livin' the life,
BagLady
Sunday, August 24, 2014
Rain, Rain, Go Away!
August 18, 2014
Lough Gamhna, Ireland
DELETED PHOTO
Camped by a lake tonight
Camped on the Shannon River the last 2 nights...2 different spots.
Camped by a lake the night before that, just out of Sligo
Camped overlooking the Atlantic Ocean from a roadside park the night before that.
Have had a lot of water views this past week. And always seem to luck out with really great wild camping spots. But can't say we've been as lucky with the weather. Very cold (50's) and raining on and off all day long, every day. We never know if it's just a passing sprinkle or going to be a soaker so each time the rain starts, we have to stop and put away our solar panels (for charging smartphones) and get rain coats on. If we don't keep our gear dry, we won't get it dry. One day we literally put on and took of four coats about 8 times an hour. Exhausting! And when those storm clouds come, the temps drop 10-15* and it gets darn chilly. I'm pretty tired of this Irish weather. You can have it! It's been one cold August, that's all I can say! And it's too rainy and cold to do laundry, so after 2 weeks of not washing and there not being laundromats in Ireland, we checked into a campground so we could wash them. Not sure $40 for the two of us to do laundry (since there was nothing else we needed there) was really worth it:/. The laundry cost alone was $13 for one load washed and dried by us. And he made us share a tent or it would have cost us $10 more! See why we don't stay in campgrounds? We just get water at pubs or grocery stores during the day and have everything we need to stay anywhere we find.
We did happen upon an Irish music festival in Sligo last Friday. It's a week long event with competitions, venues, and buskers (street performers). Tens of thousands usually attend they say. It was quite busy there. We decided to stay just shy of Sligo the night before and cycle in to spend the day there, then cycle out. With those crowds, there wouldn't be camping options. The music and dancing we're fun to watch and hear. I loved the children playing in small groups on the streets. I even got pulled in to dancing with one guy doing an Irish jig. "You looked like you knew what you were doing!"said Mark, a cycle touring guy from Texas we met at the campground and spotted again at the festival. "I faked it!" I replied!!
DELETED PHOTO
But an afternoon was enough of those crowds and we were ready to cycle out. 5 miles out of town we found a delightful picnic spot on a lake and bedded down for the night. How lucky was that?
We're dragging our heels a bit as we're heading west to east across Ireland just north of Dublin. We have more time than miles and if it was warmer and sunnier, we'd probably stay a day at one of these lake sights. But instead we dally. Sleep in. Leisurely coffee. Stop often. Stop early for the night. It's a pleasure going this pace:)
April's having a time with her feet blistering and she's suffering every day. We think it started because of all the rain and wet but even all bandaged up she's still hurting. I've had some strange hot spots in places that make no contact with any part of my sandals. Very weird but not as painful as what poor April is dealing with and can't seem to stop. She's only got less than a week left with me and I think her feet are happy about that.
Tonight I had to mend my only pants. They are favorites that I've worn on every tour. Can't find replacements that dry as quickly and fit over my bike shoes. I take these on and off multiple times a day. So when the seat seams and pockets started ripping, I decided they needed mending.
DELETED PHOTO
Well, my hands are frozen being out from under the sleeping bag, so it's time to bid goodnight.
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Lough Gamhna, Ireland
DELETED PHOTO
Camped by a lake tonight
Camped on the Shannon River the last 2 nights...2 different spots.
Camped by a lake the night before that, just out of Sligo
Camped overlooking the Atlantic Ocean from a roadside park the night before that.
Have had a lot of water views this past week. And always seem to luck out with really great wild camping spots. But can't say we've been as lucky with the weather. Very cold (50's) and raining on and off all day long, every day. We never know if it's just a passing sprinkle or going to be a soaker so each time the rain starts, we have to stop and put away our solar panels (for charging smartphones) and get rain coats on. If we don't keep our gear dry, we won't get it dry. One day we literally put on and took of four coats about 8 times an hour. Exhausting! And when those storm clouds come, the temps drop 10-15* and it gets darn chilly. I'm pretty tired of this Irish weather. You can have it! It's been one cold August, that's all I can say! And it's too rainy and cold to do laundry, so after 2 weeks of not washing and there not being laundromats in Ireland, we checked into a campground so we could wash them. Not sure $40 for the two of us to do laundry (since there was nothing else we needed there) was really worth it:/. The laundry cost alone was $13 for one load washed and dried by us. And he made us share a tent or it would have cost us $10 more! See why we don't stay in campgrounds? We just get water at pubs or grocery stores during the day and have everything we need to stay anywhere we find.
We did happen upon an Irish music festival in Sligo last Friday. It's a week long event with competitions, venues, and buskers (street performers). Tens of thousands usually attend they say. It was quite busy there. We decided to stay just shy of Sligo the night before and cycle in to spend the day there, then cycle out. With those crowds, there wouldn't be camping options. The music and dancing we're fun to watch and hear. I loved the children playing in small groups on the streets. I even got pulled in to dancing with one guy doing an Irish jig. "You looked like you knew what you were doing!"said Mark, a cycle touring guy from Texas we met at the campground and spotted again at the festival. "I faked it!" I replied!!
DELETED PHOTO
But an afternoon was enough of those crowds and we were ready to cycle out. 5 miles out of town we found a delightful picnic spot on a lake and bedded down for the night. How lucky was that?
We're dragging our heels a bit as we're heading west to east across Ireland just north of Dublin. We have more time than miles and if it was warmer and sunnier, we'd probably stay a day at one of these lake sights. But instead we dally. Sleep in. Leisurely coffee. Stop often. Stop early for the night. It's a pleasure going this pace:)
April's having a time with her feet blistering and she's suffering every day. We think it started because of all the rain and wet but even all bandaged up she's still hurting. I've had some strange hot spots in places that make no contact with any part of my sandals. Very weird but not as painful as what poor April is dealing with and can't seem to stop. She's only got less than a week left with me and I think her feet are happy about that.
Tonight I had to mend my only pants. They are favorites that I've worn on every tour. Can't find replacements that dry as quickly and fit over my bike shoes. I take these on and off multiple times a day. So when the seat seams and pockets started ripping, I decided they needed mending.
DELETED PHOTO
Well, my hands are frozen being out from under the sleeping bag, so it's time to bid goodnight.
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Friday, August 15, 2014
Sun Showers
August 11, 2014
Killeter, Northern Ireland
We may have been rained out yesterday, but oh did we get "trail magic"! About midday when the rain was taking a rest, we wandered into town to find water and power. Being Sunday not much was happening but we did find a wee pub open. They kindly took us in and fixed us coffee and toast, then later biscuits, and later yet, wine and beer! Collette and her husband have owned it for 25 years. It was the sweetest, cozies place to land on a rainy Sunday afternoon.
Today we pedaled on but not until we stopped by for water and hugs!
When we look at weather reports here, they often show raindrops, a cloud, and sunshine all in the same icon. Now we know why. It means anything can happen and many times all three! That was today. Rain and cold, then sun and sweat. Jacket and pants on and off. At one time I was in my skirt with my raincoat, hat, and gloves on! We often look at the hourly forecast to see when the heaviest rain is expected but mostly see this trio. Today was most challenging because if we get too wet, we get too cold. Temps are in the high 50s to low 60s here and drop at least 10 degrees when one of those rain fronts passes over. In fact, the temp dropping means rain is coming. Today feeling that change in temperature and wind pick up I was worried about getting drenched when I spotted the open doors of a barn and cycled right in. April followed although she said she wouldn't normally do that. The sky opened up! We would have been so so wet. Good timing. It was a tractor barn and the farmer never knew he provided a haven for us.
Sometimes all we can do is stop, put up our umbrellas blocking the rain and huddle behind it with legs pulled up onto the bike frame. It works amazingly well and we sit waiting for the heavy stuff to pass. Rain. Sun. Rain. Sun. All day long. It just started raining again. And sometimes it rains when the sun is out, what the Irish refer to as "sun showers". We had a lot of them today!!!
Today after our huddle we cycled into a small village and saw a tent set up in front of a pub and pulled under it. The pub emptied out to study us and our funny bikes. Before we knew it everyone was riding them up and down Main Street racing each other. What a sight!
They found us a place to camp "in the garden", actually a small unmowed pasture in the Y just out of town. May have been a bad idea since the teens are already harassing us throwing rocks at our tents and propositioning April:). I followed them back up to the pub and told them we didn't want any trouble tonight. "Remember, we're Americans...and we carry guns!" Had to frighten them somehow! Hope it works.
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Killeter, Northern Ireland
We may have been rained out yesterday, but oh did we get "trail magic"! About midday when the rain was taking a rest, we wandered into town to find water and power. Being Sunday not much was happening but we did find a wee pub open. They kindly took us in and fixed us coffee and toast, then later biscuits, and later yet, wine and beer! Collette and her husband have owned it for 25 years. It was the sweetest, cozies place to land on a rainy Sunday afternoon.
Today we pedaled on but not until we stopped by for water and hugs!
When we look at weather reports here, they often show raindrops, a cloud, and sunshine all in the same icon. Now we know why. It means anything can happen and many times all three! That was today. Rain and cold, then sun and sweat. Jacket and pants on and off. At one time I was in my skirt with my raincoat, hat, and gloves on! We often look at the hourly forecast to see when the heaviest rain is expected but mostly see this trio. Today was most challenging because if we get too wet, we get too cold. Temps are in the high 50s to low 60s here and drop at least 10 degrees when one of those rain fronts passes over. In fact, the temp dropping means rain is coming. Today feeling that change in temperature and wind pick up I was worried about getting drenched when I spotted the open doors of a barn and cycled right in. April followed although she said she wouldn't normally do that. The sky opened up! We would have been so so wet. Good timing. It was a tractor barn and the farmer never knew he provided a haven for us.
Sometimes all we can do is stop, put up our umbrellas blocking the rain and huddle behind it with legs pulled up onto the bike frame. It works amazingly well and we sit waiting for the heavy stuff to pass. Rain. Sun. Rain. Sun. All day long. It just started raining again. And sometimes it rains when the sun is out, what the Irish refer to as "sun showers". We had a lot of them today!!!
Today after our huddle we cycled into a small village and saw a tent set up in front of a pub and pulled under it. The pub emptied out to study us and our funny bikes. Before we knew it everyone was riding them up and down Main Street racing each other. What a sight!
They found us a place to camp "in the garden", actually a small unmowed pasture in the Y just out of town. May have been a bad idea since the teens are already harassing us throwing rocks at our tents and propositioning April:). I followed them back up to the pub and told them we didn't want any trouble tonight. "Remember, we're Americans...and we carry guns!" Had to frighten them somehow! Hope it works.
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Sunday, August 10, 2014
Tis a Rainy Day in Ireland!
August 10, 2013
Newtonstewart, Ireland or Northern Ireland
It's hard to know which country I'm in at any given time without seeing the color of the post office. If it's red, then that's the Royal Mail and I'm in the UK (Northern Ireland). If it's green, the Ireland. That was how I figured out yesterday that we had crossed the border sometime earlier. And it means we have to use Euros to buy stuff. Luckily my wallet has a pouch on either side: Euros on one, and Pounds Sterling on the other! People living along the border must do the same, although it appears the stores will take either with no exchange rate even though we pay more for £ than for €.
Forecast Summary
Sunday: Cloudy with showers or longer outbreaks of rain, becoming heavy at times.
Yup, that's today's forecast. So needless to say, we didn't pack up this morning. Looks like a zero day (day with zero miles) in our tents in a town park by the river near a beautiful ancient bridge. We're a bit light on water but hopefully if the rain stops for a while we can stroll into town (?) and find some. Also low on power. The iPhone is a great source of entertainment but also eats up power quickly. I have a power pack with a couple of recharges and then that's it. No sun, no power. Amazingly the solar panel has really earned it's keep. Most days I get a full charge off if it for both my phone and my power pack top off.
My tent is strewn with gear and clothes and food. It's probably a good thing I brought the 2 person one. Not so cramped when "house-bound":). And everything is getting a bit smelly. Showers and laundry have been scarce this last week or longer. I do a wash up most every night in a small amount of water and soap right in my tent. Last night was a luxury with a fresh waster river nearby and I got a full body wash including hair. Too cold for swimming though. (And a bit dangerous according to the signs.). But my clothes stink. Washed my silk boxers last night. I wear them under my cycling skirt to be "decent". They're soft and comfy. Sure beats the hot and heavy compression liners they put underneath. I cut them out. We can't find a laundromat here. Even in Londonderry they said there wasn't one. Supposedly everyone has a washing machine, even in apartments.
Yes we did cycle through the Walled City of Derry or Londonderry. Cities are not our favorite place to be, but I wanted to see it. We thought we'd stay at a hostel to get showers and laundry. Nope, they were full up. And another was on the 2nd floor...not good for bikes. So we decided to see the sights and cycle on. Who needs a shower and laundry anyways? Overrated, I always say:). So in the middle of this city is a wall all the way around a center section with archways to enter. And inside are shops. Lots of shops! Ok. Saw the wall. The most interesting thing we checked out was a gallery of photos about the conflict in the 70s. Very moving. That's what comes to mind for me when I hear "Northern Ireland". Internal strife. One man my age said when he went to school, the children were searched every day for bombs. It was a way of life. Get on with it.
I have to say I don't always get everything that's said to me by the Irish. Sometimes the accent is so strong I can only pick out a word or two. If it's important, like directions, I ask them to repeat it...but if they're just chatting away, I nod and smile and act as if I understood. Then April and I ask each other, "Did you get that?" "No, I thought you did!"
So that night after touring Derry, we continued following the National Cycle Route we've been on since Larne down along the river on a cycle path. And what do we come upon? A clearing with a bench and a sculpture and a mace for our tents! Nicer than any hostel! Sun, no midgies, no bees, delightful evening!!! So glad we didn't stay in the city:))))
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Newtonstewart, Ireland or Northern Ireland
It's hard to know which country I'm in at any given time without seeing the color of the post office. If it's red, then that's the Royal Mail and I'm in the UK (Northern Ireland). If it's green, the Ireland. That was how I figured out yesterday that we had crossed the border sometime earlier. And it means we have to use Euros to buy stuff. Luckily my wallet has a pouch on either side: Euros on one, and Pounds Sterling on the other! People living along the border must do the same, although it appears the stores will take either with no exchange rate even though we pay more for £ than for €.
Forecast Summary
Sunday: Cloudy with showers or longer outbreaks of rain, becoming heavy at times.
Yup, that's today's forecast. So needless to say, we didn't pack up this morning. Looks like a zero day (day with zero miles) in our tents in a town park by the river near a beautiful ancient bridge. We're a bit light on water but hopefully if the rain stops for a while we can stroll into town (?) and find some. Also low on power. The iPhone is a great source of entertainment but also eats up power quickly. I have a power pack with a couple of recharges and then that's it. No sun, no power. Amazingly the solar panel has really earned it's keep. Most days I get a full charge off if it for both my phone and my power pack top off.
My tent is strewn with gear and clothes and food. It's probably a good thing I brought the 2 person one. Not so cramped when "house-bound":). And everything is getting a bit smelly. Showers and laundry have been scarce this last week or longer. I do a wash up most every night in a small amount of water and soap right in my tent. Last night was a luxury with a fresh waster river nearby and I got a full body wash including hair. Too cold for swimming though. (And a bit dangerous according to the signs.). But my clothes stink. Washed my silk boxers last night. I wear them under my cycling skirt to be "decent". They're soft and comfy. Sure beats the hot and heavy compression liners they put underneath. I cut them out. We can't find a laundromat here. Even in Londonderry they said there wasn't one. Supposedly everyone has a washing machine, even in apartments.
Yes we did cycle through the Walled City of Derry or Londonderry. Cities are not our favorite place to be, but I wanted to see it. We thought we'd stay at a hostel to get showers and laundry. Nope, they were full up. And another was on the 2nd floor...not good for bikes. So we decided to see the sights and cycle on. Who needs a shower and laundry anyways? Overrated, I always say:). So in the middle of this city is a wall all the way around a center section with archways to enter. And inside are shops. Lots of shops! Ok. Saw the wall. The most interesting thing we checked out was a gallery of photos about the conflict in the 70s. Very moving. That's what comes to mind for me when I hear "Northern Ireland". Internal strife. One man my age said when he went to school, the children were searched every day for bombs. It was a way of life. Get on with it.
I have to say I don't always get everything that's said to me by the Irish. Sometimes the accent is so strong I can only pick out a word or two. If it's important, like directions, I ask them to repeat it...but if they're just chatting away, I nod and smile and act as if I understood. Then April and I ask each other, "Did you get that?" "No, I thought you did!"
So that night after touring Derry, we continued following the National Cycle Route we've been on since Larne down along the river on a cycle path. And what do we come upon? A clearing with a bench and a sculpture and a mace for our tents! Nicer than any hostel! Sun, no midgies, no bees, delightful evening!!! So glad we didn't stay in the city:))))
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Friday, August 8, 2014
"Keep It Between the Hedges"
August 6, 2014
(Happy Birthday, Nate!)
Castlerock, Northern Ireland
Camped in an open field surrounded by woods tonight. Last night we camped next to the remains of a church an cemetery built in the 1300's.
Night before on a coastal overlook.
Night before that along a stream by the side of the road.
Night before that in a campground we took refuge in during a torrential rain storm.
Been a hilly and rainy week. But between the hills and the drops we've met some kind Irish souls and seen castles and cliffs and unusual geological formations.
PHOTOS DELETED
And I had a 65th birthday this week. Hate to admit my age, but it is what it is. And how many women my age are doing what I'm doing? (Or would want to, some would say:)). April began my special day with coffee cake. Rich cake flavored with coffee! Perfect! We got to eat it at every break!!! And candy! And colored pencils to draw with after she's gone and I do more of my artwork.
Now this is Aug 4th and I have 3 hats on my head to stay warm. Summer has a whole different definition up here:). Then when the sun comes out, I'm stripping everything off!
We are cycling the Coastal Route which hosted the Giro, an Italian cycling race similar to the Tour de France and pink bicycles are everywhere along the route.
PHOTOS DELETED
Last night as we left Dunluce Castle pondering with locals about where to camp, an Irish elderly gentleman said, "We have this saying up here: 'Just keep it between the hedges!' ". And I knew then the title of my next blog!!!
There's been a lot of fascination about our bikes and our tour. Exhaustingly so. It's nice having April here to buffer them and handle her share. Too much of a good thing, I'm afraid. I like to share but telling the same story again and again and again does get old. We're starting to keep it simple. Sometimes we just say we biked from Madrid with no further explanation. Sometimes I just say we're biking around the world without explaining that April's going home. And sometimes they even get to sit:)
Ya know how I've struggled with ticks and midgies (no-see-ums or sand flies) in Scotland? Here in Ireland it's yellow jackets. Aggressive ones that keep harassing me even as I'm walking away trying to eat my breakfast. Argh!
Livin' the life,
BagLady
(Happy Birthday, Nate!)
Castlerock, Northern Ireland
Camped in an open field surrounded by woods tonight. Last night we camped next to the remains of a church an cemetery built in the 1300's.
Night before on a coastal overlook.
Night before that along a stream by the side of the road.
Night before that in a campground we took refuge in during a torrential rain storm.
Been a hilly and rainy week. But between the hills and the drops we've met some kind Irish souls and seen castles and cliffs and unusual geological formations.
PHOTOS DELETED
And I had a 65th birthday this week. Hate to admit my age, but it is what it is. And how many women my age are doing what I'm doing? (Or would want to, some would say:)). April began my special day with coffee cake. Rich cake flavored with coffee! Perfect! We got to eat it at every break!!! And candy! And colored pencils to draw with after she's gone and I do more of my artwork.
Now this is Aug 4th and I have 3 hats on my head to stay warm. Summer has a whole different definition up here:). Then when the sun comes out, I'm stripping everything off!
We are cycling the Coastal Route which hosted the Giro, an Italian cycling race similar to the Tour de France and pink bicycles are everywhere along the route.
PHOTOS DELETED
Last night as we left Dunluce Castle pondering with locals about where to camp, an Irish elderly gentleman said, "We have this saying up here: 'Just keep it between the hedges!' ". And I knew then the title of my next blog!!!
There's been a lot of fascination about our bikes and our tour. Exhaustingly so. It's nice having April here to buffer them and handle her share. Too much of a good thing, I'm afraid. I like to share but telling the same story again and again and again does get old. We're starting to keep it simple. Sometimes we just say we biked from Madrid with no further explanation. Sometimes I just say we're biking around the world without explaining that April's going home. And sometimes they even get to sit:)
Ya know how I've struggled with ticks and midgies (no-see-ums or sand flies) in Scotland? Here in Ireland it's yellow jackets. Aggressive ones that keep harassing me even as I'm walking away trying to eat my breakfast. Argh!
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Friday, August 1, 2014
The Kindness of Strangers...Again
August 1, 2013
Larne Town Park, Northern Ireland
I did it again. Got behind in my blogging. Let's see. Last weekend back in Kilmartin, Scotland, after the worst day ever we road only 5 miles. Stopped to check out a museum about the archeology of the area's stone circles and ancient stone cairns.
Then the heavens opened up and the museum folks tucked our bikes in a tent in the gardens. We tucked ourselves into the local pub across the street. During a break in the rain we got tents up for the night on the greens. Next morning, with the weather unchanged we hung out in the pub again. Got to know the owner, all the staff, and some guests:). Ran into a staff person the day we left at the grocery store in a nearby town and she said we were sorely missed.
We ferry hopped our way over to Arran Island, cycled around it for a couple of days. Stopped at a museum and I got a lesson in spinning yarn on a spinner. Hard work!
Then we hopped across to the main land at Ardrossan. I had to collect a package at the post office there: replacement credit card, replacement side mirror, and replacement earbuds. All essentials!!! And did we have "trail magic" there. First we stopped at a bike shop because my rear derailleur was all messed up. In the lowest gear it was pressing against the tire acting like a brake. No wonder those hills were so hard! And April's brakes were messed up and misbehaving. The shop guy fixed both quickly and easily for no charge. Then I went looking for a particular size Allen wrench. I've been looking for awhile only to find kits. So this hardware store first tried some strays they had lying about. Wrong size. He hands me a ring of 8 or more wrenches of which I only need one. I told him I'd buy it but he could have the rest back. I wasn't carrying them all! He grabs the one I need, pulls it off and hands it to me. Then hands my 2 quid back and says "it's yours!" Thanks, I beam! So nice! Then we cycle down to a local campground that will cost 10 quid per night per person ($17) and when we arrive I asked if we could just buy a shower. "The shower is free. Here's the key. You have an honest face!" Home run! She even gave us directions to the coast to camp and gave the security a heads up in case we decided to come back they were to let us in. Too kind!
And then today. We woke up about 17 miles from the ferry port. I knew that the first ferry for Ireland left at 11 and we pretty much decided not to try for it. Besides, you're suppose to be there early. But we broke camp an hour earlier than usual because it was so cold and windy. Eventually we decided to go for it and pushed ourselves. Of course then we made wrong turns and got lost. Eating up time. With 45 minutes until departure I'm sitting at a roundabout trying to figure which exit and a car pulls up, rolls down the window and says, "going to the ferry? That way. 20 minutes." Yikes. Pedal, pedal, pedal! Pull up to ticket window. Lady calls down to boat. No. Full. Can't take them. Really? You can't find room for two wee bikes? The next ferry is at 7:30 pm arriving at 9:30. Late. Near dark. Not good. Finding out the tickets were cheaper online, we left the ticket window to book them. April suggests we do it from her phone in parking lot before leaving. While doing this, a ferry guy comes over to us and says they'll find a spot for us...get going! Another miracle!
Then we had the most delightful visit with Phyllis and her mom, Betty from Scotland while we shared a table near the plugs for charging devices. Loved hearing they're stories and having a glimpse into their lives. Then TJ stopped by...the guy at the roundabout who gave us directions...remember? He won the bet with his wife that we'd get on when he saw us pedaling down the gangplank. He also kindly shared his contact info if we should get near his town. I hope we can!
The kindness of strangers, every day, just sometimes makes my heart burst. This is why I travel. Just in case you wondered.
So tonight we're camped in the town park along the water's edge and we've already been offered showers and power for our phones. (We've also been warned of drunken teens that may be a problem...oh, we'll. Do you think chaining our bikes to our tents will help? At least we may be awakened if they try to take them!)
Sleep well...
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Larne Town Park, Northern Ireland
I did it again. Got behind in my blogging. Let's see. Last weekend back in Kilmartin, Scotland, after the worst day ever we road only 5 miles. Stopped to check out a museum about the archeology of the area's stone circles and ancient stone cairns.
Then the heavens opened up and the museum folks tucked our bikes in a tent in the gardens. We tucked ourselves into the local pub across the street. During a break in the rain we got tents up for the night on the greens. Next morning, with the weather unchanged we hung out in the pub again. Got to know the owner, all the staff, and some guests:). Ran into a staff person the day we left at the grocery store in a nearby town and she said we were sorely missed.
We ferry hopped our way over to Arran Island, cycled around it for a couple of days. Stopped at a museum and I got a lesson in spinning yarn on a spinner. Hard work!
Then we hopped across to the main land at Ardrossan. I had to collect a package at the post office there: replacement credit card, replacement side mirror, and replacement earbuds. All essentials!!! And did we have "trail magic" there. First we stopped at a bike shop because my rear derailleur was all messed up. In the lowest gear it was pressing against the tire acting like a brake. No wonder those hills were so hard! And April's brakes were messed up and misbehaving. The shop guy fixed both quickly and easily for no charge. Then I went looking for a particular size Allen wrench. I've been looking for awhile only to find kits. So this hardware store first tried some strays they had lying about. Wrong size. He hands me a ring of 8 or more wrenches of which I only need one. I told him I'd buy it but he could have the rest back. I wasn't carrying them all! He grabs the one I need, pulls it off and hands it to me. Then hands my 2 quid back and says "it's yours!" Thanks, I beam! So nice! Then we cycle down to a local campground that will cost 10 quid per night per person ($17) and when we arrive I asked if we could just buy a shower. "The shower is free. Here's the key. You have an honest face!" Home run! She even gave us directions to the coast to camp and gave the security a heads up in case we decided to come back they were to let us in. Too kind!
And then today. We woke up about 17 miles from the ferry port. I knew that the first ferry for Ireland left at 11 and we pretty much decided not to try for it. Besides, you're suppose to be there early. But we broke camp an hour earlier than usual because it was so cold and windy. Eventually we decided to go for it and pushed ourselves. Of course then we made wrong turns and got lost. Eating up time. With 45 minutes until departure I'm sitting at a roundabout trying to figure which exit and a car pulls up, rolls down the window and says, "going to the ferry? That way. 20 minutes." Yikes. Pedal, pedal, pedal! Pull up to ticket window. Lady calls down to boat. No. Full. Can't take them. Really? You can't find room for two wee bikes? The next ferry is at 7:30 pm arriving at 9:30. Late. Near dark. Not good. Finding out the tickets were cheaper online, we left the ticket window to book them. April suggests we do it from her phone in parking lot before leaving. While doing this, a ferry guy comes over to us and says they'll find a spot for us...get going! Another miracle!
Then we had the most delightful visit with Phyllis and her mom, Betty from Scotland while we shared a table near the plugs for charging devices. Loved hearing they're stories and having a glimpse into their lives. Then TJ stopped by...the guy at the roundabout who gave us directions...remember? He won the bet with his wife that we'd get on when he saw us pedaling down the gangplank. He also kindly shared his contact info if we should get near his town. I hope we can!
The kindness of strangers, every day, just sometimes makes my heart burst. This is why I travel. Just in case you wondered.
So tonight we're camped in the town park along the water's edge and we've already been offered showers and power for our phones. (We've also been warned of drunken teens that may be a problem...oh, we'll. Do you think chaining our bikes to our tents will help? At least we may be awakened if they try to take them!)
Sleep well...
Livin' the life,
BagLady
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