Tuesday, December 30, 2014

Pic in Paper




Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

"I saw you in the paper!"

December 28, 2014
Owaka, NZ

"I saw you in the paper!" she said grinning and waving from the sidewalk. The article the photographer and reporter from the Otago paper must have been published. "I just read about you this morning!" she said as another woman cornered April in a grocery store. So the clerk got a copy of the morning paper and we flipped through it...twice. "I know I saw it this morning." Do you have yesterday's paper we asked. Yup. So we flipped through and on the 2nd to last page, there we were!

(I deleted the picture because it wouldn't upload, but I'll try and send it separately.)


Also, the other day when we pulled into a picnic area, a little boy about 10 years old was smiling about our bikes. Then he asked, "were you on Road Cops?" Yes! So that's the name of the show! I wondered if someone was going to tell me they saw me on it...and you just made my day:)

And as we were biking yesterday so many cars beeped and waved, flashed their lights and gave thumbs up! We're thinking it's because they saw the article. We get a lot of attention, but it was more than usual. Today a guy came over to our picnic table at lunch in twin and said he saw the article and had seen us twice over the last 2 days. Just wanted to say hi and tell us he admired what we were doing.

And yesterday a car going the opposite direction pulled over to tell us we were making good time. He'd met us our first day out in Christchurch when we were climbing Evans Pass, the road that dead ended at the top.

So fame has been keeping us busy and April's been thoroughly enjoying it. She says I'm used to it, but it's a first for her:). I don't know about that.

We're heading into a pretty remote area of the South Island taking the more hilly and remote scenic route. With 130 kilometers to bike and no towns, we've stocked up on food. Our bike's are bulging with extra bags hanging off the sides. Don't want to run out! (Always a worry of mine.)

The weather has finally warmed up this last week and summer has arrived. Blistered lips have tormented us right from the start. We get them healed and they blister again. Quite painful. Using lip balm with SPF but maybe too late. The sun is so hot that it sears my thighs and yet the air may be cold. It's so strange. Due to dryness. No moisture in the air to heat up. And today we had headwinds. I was biking along with bare arms and a buff on my head. Go figure!

So the plan is to cycle this scenic route across the south end over to Bluff and store our bikes there while we backpack Stewart Island. So today we met a family on holiday who live in Bluff. So you can guess what I asked them. Yup. Can you store our bikes and stuff while we tour Stewart Island? Of course. But they won't be home for a week and we may be ahead of them. But I've got contact info...maybe a neighbor can help us. It's all about contacts!

Been a bit challenging finding camp spots. The farmers fence off every scrap of land. Last night we camped in a mowed section at an intersection maybe 50 ft back from the road. People honked and waved:).


Tonight we're halfway up a windy road on a grassy knoll that leads to an old, unused gate. Beautiful views in every direction.








Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Wednesday, December 24, 2014

Christmas Day 2014

December 25, 2014
Dunedin, NZ







Camped by the ocean, on an overlooking cliff, on a roadside pulloff...that's where we spent a day off celebrating Christmas. A jogger stopped by. A local on a quad bike from up the hill come over. A family of locals came to the beach for a respite before the chaos of Christmas started. What a restfully delightful day it has been. We just wish we'd thought more about Xmas food when we stopped at the store yesterday. We've put a wish out to the Universe for some Christmas cookies:)

I must say we had 4 wonderful days with Jamie and Aileen Sinclair of Dunedin just past.


April had met this couple in a campground in the US 7 years ago and stayed in touch. When we said we were coming through Dunedin, they invited us to come visit. So we did! We got a tour of the city, rides to do errands, loan of a sewing machine so I could replace the broken zipper in my favorite pants. I resiliconed my tent floor and redid my hair. Even managed to watch a couple of movies and sleep in. But the wonderful NZ dinners and rich conversation were the highlights. And thank you doesn't cover it.

The steepest street in the world is in Dunedin: Baldwin Street. We walked it because we didn't have our bikes. It's 35%! Would loved to have tried biking it! Would have been a grind!!


But that's not the only amazing kiwi hospitality we've had. Coming to the town of Oamaru a week ago, we were hosted by Warmshowers host, Chris Jones for a couple of nights. Since we were arriving before he got home, he left us the key so we could settle in. How thoughtful. And dinner provided later. Yippee. Which we reciprocated the next night. Having a day off us such a treat. And when it's in a delightful home-y space, better yet. Thank you Chris! (How we forgot to get his pic, I'll never know. Slipping. )

We've also been stopped by reporters and photographers for 2 newspapers now here. Happened again yesterday. And both times I've failed to capture pictures. I'm really falling down on the job. No pictures and few posts. Less is more, right? So imagine a photographer lying down in the middle of the road as we bike towards him, side by side. Hopefully I'll be able to share the link whenever the articles post.

Tomorrow we head south into the Catlins and on towards Bluff. We're headed to Stewart Island for some backpacking over the New Years and then back up the island, eventually ending up in Wellington to see my friends Moa and Kiwi and their families.



Di, a local we met.



Wildfire bucked off April. All's well.




The star on the top of our Christmas tree.



Paua shell.




They grow seaweed big around here!



Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Saturday, December 13, 2014

Week 1 NZ

December 12, 2014
Winchester, South Island NZ

It took us 3 days to get out of Christchurch. April had found a route done by a bike touring group that went out to the coast and over some steep hills but it looked like fun and would keep us off the main road and away from traffic. So off we go to Sumner and up Evans Pass Rd, a steep climb. As we're nearing the top we see a sign that says "Road Closed Ahead", but think that can't be our road, wouldn't you put that at the bottom of the hill? We arrive to the clapping of a guy on a mountain bike. "Where ya headed?" he asks. Lyttleton. "Can't get there from here. Road's closed due to rock fall during the earthquake." Dang! Well, maybe we can camp up here before we head back, but we didn't get water yet. Don't really want to cycle back through Christchurch tonight. Turns out the guy, Mark, is a Warmshowers host. We might be able to camp in his yard but it's slanted except down by the river. Or we could sleep in the guest room. A couple from France just left. He'll be home in an hour and he gave us directions. We beat him to the house and met his wife giving her the story. She kindly invited us in for tea while we wait for Mark to arrive. When he does, he has another idea of a place to camp: the small yard of the house across the street that's empty and going to be demolished. Perfect!


So we set up while Mark and Natalie (I think) take off to friends' house. Yup. We've got everything we need but when we go to cook our supper,we realize we forgot to get lighters:/. (Can't carry them on the plane.). How are we going to start our stove. Dang. We'd been in the house, finding the back door unlocked but it was empty. But April goes wandering through the kitchen opening drawers and doors. Nothing. Then she glances up on the windowsill and what do her wondering eyes behold??? A small lighter! Bingo!! Talk about Trail Magic!!!!! Two very happy woman. I found I was still jet lagged and ever so sleepy. I went to sleep at 7 pm (for many nights).

In the morning we find this cute note under a rock outside my tent. "Welcome to New Zealand. Merry. Christmas. It's a kiwi! Johnny" and there was a kiwi bird ornament there too. How sweet! About 30 minutes later Johnny shows up. He's an 8 yr old boy, the owner of the trampoline in the picture. That made it even more special. He said he snuck up while we were sleeping and didn't want to wake us. I love Kiwi kids! They're not like American children. Great beginning to our trip.

Our next day included lots of climbing as we were still trying to get to this major peninsula we saw on our map. We could see the mountains over there but we're having a kick ass time getting there. Poor April was on day 2 legs. I felt sorry for her. We found a stone shelter up one of the hills to camp in for the night and put our tents up inside for warmth. Oh ya, I've forgotten to mention that summer seems to have slipped away here. It's cold! Temps in the 50s with rain and icy southerlies...winds from
Antarctica! Chilly!




But we have had some amazing views:




We decided to skip the peninsula and start heading south to Bluff. We have this idea of spending New Year's Eve backpacking on Stewart Island if we can get there by then. We're cycling through mostly farm land that is quite windy at times. And the weather is cold. So one night with the wind in our faces, I asked the Universe for
some woods to camp in. Now mind you, we hadn't seen any woods for days, but they sure would have been nice. But we also hadn't gotten our evening water. Don't ya know, I looked left and see the nicest pine forest with no underbrush. And a gate with no lock. Hmmm. Looks mighty tempting. But we need water. Across the street is a small farm with the gate open but a warning about hazardous site. I sees guy out by the barn. Here goes. I ride up to him. Could we get some water? Yup. Do you know who owns the woods across the street? We need a place to camp out of this terrible wind. Not my land. The owner lives several roads back that way. Others have camped there and gotten away with it. Ok. We're going for it.

And it was so quiet in there out of the wind. Trail Magic again!

The next night we camped near one of these huge hedges they grow as wind blocks. It was so nice and warm on our side and windy on the other.




And tonight we stocked up on food because if I remember correctly, the stores close Saturday afternoon and don't reopen until Monday morning. Maybe not true of grocery stores but we're ready.




And I needed some entertainment today so I found some playmates.



Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Sunday, December 7, 2014

Omitted photo...

This is my suitcase for flying to Rome!


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

"Home" Again in New Zealand

December 7, 2014
Christchurch, NZ

Everything went smoothly getting packed up and to the airport in Rome. I bought a large roll of plastic wrap and bundled my 2 panniers and sack together to make one bundle with Boris' help. (0mitted photo of bundle)

Then I wheeled everything to the train station where there was a cheap airport bus.


But since I went when Boris needed to go, I was there 7 hours ahead of my flight. Too early to check in my baggage, so Blaze had to stay with me. Certainly a conversation starter:)






My flight was to Abu Dhabi, then Sydney, then Christchurch...5.5 hours, 13 hours, and 3.5 hours. Entering NZ has some restrictions that the airlines enforce more than NZ Immigration. Having a flight out is one of them. The trick is to book a fully refundable flight, then cancel it after you arrive. My flight was to Sydney next month. With only an hour connection, New Zealand Air said I had to have a valid visa into Australia before they'd let me board. You can do it on line but do you think I could get the airport computers or the free wifi to work quickly enough to process. No. They pulled my baggage and booked me on a later flight after I resolved this restriction. The later flight was 9 hours later. I was a zombie!! I finally set up an Australian visa, but of course it's starting right away and we won't be going there for 2-3 months. A joke. And April didn't have to do this on Qantas Airlines. And customs didn't even ask about it. What a joke! Now I've got to cancel that visa somehow so it doesn't affect my getting a 12 month one when I need it.



And I arrived in Christchurch at midnight. Blaze arrived in fine shape. I got her all set up, tires re-inflated, and set off to cycle 6 miles to my hostel. A beautiful night for a bike ride! No traffic. Fresh air. Just what I needed after 48 hours of travel!!!



April, my friend who travelled with me in Europe, met up with me here. Her bike took a detour, not arriving when she did. But managing to show up the following day, thank goodness. Just a wee bit of a scare.

I saw Christchurch quickly last time I was here on a one hour tour with locals. Was nice to be able to bike around and see a few changes this time. The Cardboard Cathedral is completed for the congregation who can't use the severely damaged main church.






The Box Mall made of shipping containers has grown to many more stores.



But there are still many vacant lots and streets under repair. Still so sad to see. I did stop by the White Chairs where a chair was donated and painted white to represent the people who died in the quake. You are invited to sit and .... I did. And I cried.


So after 4 nights in our hostel, a small quiet house with private rooms and a large back garden, we cycled away.

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Thursday, December 4, 2014

A Week in Rome

November 30, 2014
Rome, Italy

I'm sitting here in the airport awaiting my flight to New Zealand. Seems like a good time to recap my week in Rome.

I stayed at the sweetest hostel. Great people working there. Fun people staying there. Hostels are great places for solo travelers to connect with other people. And I did. Rozie, from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, was my dorm mate and tour partner for a couple of days. She was on her first solo tour and so capable at getting around. I was impressed. From her I learned about the bus that would get me up the airport and the fun of being an Asian photographer:).




After my quick tour of all the famous ruins u spent most if my time walking, window shopping, and fretting what to buy my daughters for Christmas that weighed nothing and represented Italy. And let me say how much I stress shopping for others. So many beautiful things that would have cost an arm and two legs to ship. A postcard is $2.50 for postage.










And eating and drinking coffee of course are an Italian pastimes.












A German man, Boris, who I met in Hawaii three years ago, flew down to Rome for the weekend and we palled around for my last few days here. First he got ripped off by the Romans taking our photographs. This photo was expensive!



Then we braved the crowds at the Vatican...actually more like braving the "beggars", people wanting you to take their tour or buy their stuff. I was yelling at them after awhile. They were every 3 steps!! OMG!






Then off to window shop.






Gladiator museum next. That was a cruel sport. Sickening.






Walking in the rain with no umbrella or coat because the weather report was good.




And more eating...




Followed by drinking later...




And today it was packing...



Don't ya love my plastic wrap luggage?!!

And getting to the airport.



Off to New Zealand!! Wahoo!!!!


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman