Wednesday, February 18, 2015

Catch Up on the West Coast

February 11, 2014
West Coast
South Island, NZ

"So you're the nutty bitches we saw on the road earlier today, " a kiwi woman said to us, walking past our tents one night on her way to the beach. So we've been knighted The Nutty Bitches, an affectionate kiwi term, so we've been told:). Does fit us quite well, don't ya think?

February 14, 2015
South of Nelson
Hwy 6
South Island NZ

Oh, I've done it again: gotten behind on my blogging. It's April's fault:).

It's now February 16th and we're between Nelson and Picton and I need to write. No more dillying around.

So the last I wrote we were on the the West Coast Wilderness Cycle a Trail heading into Greymouth where I was expecting not one, but two air mattresses. One that was the warranty replacement from Bivouac here in NZ and an emergency one from thoughtful friends in Wellington that shipped it before they knew I had a resolution. (Thank you Mrs.
Moa and Moa!!) So we made sure to arrive before the weekend when things are often closed. We arrived on Friday. And guess what! It was Waitangi Day, a public holiday for the signing of the treaty with the King of England in 1840, if my memory serves me right. "Don't you celebrate this holiday in America?" asked a teenage girl:)). No, we celebrate gaining our independence FROM England!!

So no Post Office open. Not until Sat morning for a couple of hours. Dang! We weren't planning on staying in this large town. Checking our WikiCamps app we see there's a place for self-contained RVs out by the river's mouth. (What's self-contained, you ask. Can't remember if I've explained this do I'll go it again. In NZ they certify RVs that have full bathroom facilities and grey water containment. Then there are places only these vehicles can park overnight. They've had a big problem with messes left by people pooping in the bushes. April and I have designed a method to be fully self-contained but have not had the pleasure of applying for certification:). But in places where there's no woods or facilities or over populated, we bag our poop and take it with us...like with dogs:))

The park was too windy, and not pleasant for camping. Besides locals told us they police the area heavily. But we found a sweet spot just back from the waterfront in an old cemetery. No complaints from the residents there! So back into town the next morning. At the Post Office they have only one pkg, from Moa. From the tracking number they determined it didn't come through the postal system but some other carrier. We have to find them. A call to Bivouac determines it was NZ Couriers, and I see their van across the street while I'm still on the phone. Go find out where their depot is, I ask April. After hanging up, April's motioning me to come over. I arrive and she tells me the depot closed 30 minutes ago. NO! Won't open until Monday morning. NO! This can't be happening. First I've slept on the hard ground for 9 nights up to this point. Second, we don't want to hang out in that cemetery for 2 more nights. Arghh! Isn't there anyone who can get my pkg? I ask. He says he had the key to the building but not the alarm code. I wait. Give him time to think. It's something I've learned touring. Don't get mad at anyone. Just put your desires out there clearly and let them ponder. They often figure out a way. He said he had an idea and he'd be back. We'll wait here. About 20 minutes later, the red can shows up and I cross the street. He shakes his head. Oh no! This can't be happening. Then he hands me my package. You sweetheart!



And that night is like to say I slept like a baby but actually I had a difficult time.

The next big excitement was losing my umbrella. We'd had them out because it was raining when we pulled into a campground for the night. April says she saw it open outside my tent after I'd crawled in. I never saw it again because it must have blown into the bushes. I pack up assuming if there's nothing left behind I must have it all. Got an hour down the road, reached for my umbrella, and it's not there:(. I tried to hitch back to the campground but there was no place for cars to stop. I called them, and they found her and said they send her up the road with some folks heading north but I never saw them or they didn't find me. I bought a replacement but it's top heavy, catches too much wind, just not as nice. April's selling me hers before she leaves.

Oh, ya, April's going home March 1st. Her back is bothering her and she's afraid it's the slipped disc she had operated on a couple if years ago. She won't rest easy until she gets an MRI. I'm thinking it's her biking muscles are torquing her SI joint.

So, I'm heading to solo Australia. She was fearful of the snakes and spiders there what with wild camping. I have no idea what to do or where to go. I'm landing in Melbourne and figuring it out from there. It will be a surprise....to me too!









The other day, screaming down a hill, I got hit right between the eyes with something. There had been bumblebees, big ones, everywhere and I was sure that's what it was. Then the stinging started. April, I've been stung. It hurts a lot. Let's stop and see what happens. Within an hour I looked like this:



But everything felt local, nothing seemed to be happening internally. I had a yellow jacket allergy as a child and many stings so I'm pretty knowledgable about reactions and the various elements. April had an Epi-pen with her and if I felt I'd needed it I wouldn't have hesitated to use it. We cycled on but I had no energy. We found a roadside park and camped for the night. Wouldn't ya know, there were yellow jackets everywhere, and I stepped on one! Now I'm taxing my immune system. I took another antihistamine. I had taken one right after the original sting. In the morning, slight improvement:



That day I had no energy and stopped a lot. Somehow we got our 40 kms in. The next day was the same. Tired. Swollen. But soon itching began and I knew I was improving.


I got my eyes open this morning! But it's done nothing for my saggy eyelids:)

A dear friend from home is sending me a couple of Epi-pens and some Benadryl. Thanks Deb Schmidt! You're a life-saver!! Hope I never have to use them but let's not be stupid.




Yippee! 11 km climb ahead!!!



Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Thursday, February 5, 2015

West Coast Wilderness Cycle Path

February 5, 2015
Kumara, South Island, NZ




Sculpture Festival, Hokitika

A few days ago we cycled into Hokitika, one of my favorite towns in NZ. Last time I was here a terrible storm came through and the bridge over the Wanganui River washed out...just the directions needed to go. Since there was no way around, I loaded up with food nzd headed south to see what I would find. I talked a couple if other cyclists into joining me. We ended up getting helicoptered over the river!! One of the highlights of that tour.

We stopped by the bike shop where April, for the 4th time tried to get her rear cluster tightened. Poor girl.


(She's spent a lot of time taking off and putting on her back wheel:( )

ICE, our trike maker, even sent a special tool for them to use. Nelson worked diligent but to no avail. It was tight when we left the shop and loose when we got to our Warmshowers Host's house. Have I explained about Warmshowers? I have no memory. It's a website that connects touring cyclists with people who will host them for free in exchange for their stories. Like Couchsurfing for cyclists. I use it when we're going to be in a town and want to take a day off the bike to get chores done. Kevin is a retired scientist and had done great stories about the tramping in the bush here, wiring as a dairy scientist, and his travels in the US. He was even at Cornell University!


The first in night we stayed, there was another American staying there, Tim Caldwell. He's doing WOOFing while he's here, work for stay at organic farms.



(I often take pictures of maps and signs so I can refer to them later.)

Also, while at the bike shop, another cyclist, David Rosenberg, stopped by and mentioned this local cycle path others had been raving about: West Coast Wilderness Cycle Path. 100 kms. So we decided to take it. It was adding 70 kms and a couple of days to our getting to Greymouth, but sounded like it was worth it. And it has been! Even with heavy rains for the last 2 days! It wound it's way u into the mountains, past lakes and rivers, an imitation western town called Cowboys Paradise, and through the native bush. Well cindered most places and plenty wide enough for the trikes. Except for one bridge and a set of boulders. For those we had to dismantle and carry the trikes through.












I didn't get any pictures of the really wet times because my phone isn't waterproof. Yesterday we were both hypothermic by the time we stopped at about 3ish. Wet to the core. Luckily we got a break and the sun came out long enough to almost dry our clothes.




And what wasn't dry got hung up inside the tent that night.





Tonight we're camped at a public toilet on town. Better than a 5 star hotel with an overhang, water faucet and mowed lawn. But the rain is coming down in buckets! I sure hope the forecast for sun the next few days is right. We need to dry out!!






Have I mentioned my blown air mattress? Tonight will be night 7 of sleeping on the ground. It's not nearly as bad ad I thought it would be. Tough old broad! New one tomorrow in Greymouth from Bivouac, a NZ sports store. I can't say enough of how kind they've been.

I love going to sleep to the sound of rain on my tent. Life is good:))

(But I think my tent is leaking it's raining so hard!!!)


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman