Devastated Christchurch

Jan 25th

This is one of those nights when I wrote a lot of stuff and somehow lost it and just don't want to write it all again. The day was significant and I don't want to not do it justice.

First thing was getting Blaze on the bus. First words from driver who makes decision was "Not going to fit." But I waited and it did. Learning patience...finally.

Next was a 2 hour layover in Christchurch. I texted the Smiths, the family I met at campground in Wanaka and told them I wouldn't be able to stay over but I had this layover.


Dad and 5 kids showed up at bus stop to pick me up and give me a whirlwind tour of the earthquake damage to and resurrection of Christchurch, one of the oldest cities in NZ.

These pictures are in a city's downtown district!





Shipping containers being used to keep a damaged building from falling into the street.

The 2nd quake did more damage and several hundred people died in that one. As a memorial, across from the building where most were killed is a collection of white chairs, one for each person that died. Each one significant of that person: wheelchair, tiny chair for infant, rockers etc. all painted white.



But also amazing is the creativity being used to put up business stalls and carry on. Shipping containers make banks and shops at Box Mall.









And there's plans to build a cardboard church to use until the permanent one can be built.



So sad and yet, so hopeful and innovative. Kiwi resiliency.

BagLady

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Omarau and the Penguins

Jan 24th
East coast heading north.

Nothing happened. He was just enamoured by my beauty:). It was a quiet night.


Moeraki Boulders.
Look at these round rocks on the beach.



But even more amazing was this Maori sand drawing on the beach that I could see no footprints or machine tracks leading up to it. How was it done us a great mystery!



Omarau is the land of penguins. Yup, penguins! Little blue penguins. And Yellow Eyed Penguins (very rare). The hostel owner took all the newcomers around to show us where to go to see the penguins...and not to pay a tour co for something that's free. Tension in the community over these penguins and those that want to make $$$ off of them.

The Yellow Eyed Penguin is normal size and comes up onto a particular beach about 2 hours before sundown to feed its young in nest in the bushes. There's a viewing area about 1/2 mile outside of town and with our patience and a local farmer's help, we got to see several up pretty close and more way down on the beach.

The Little Blue Penguins are actually inhabitants of the town, many of them living in holes in the old stone buildings. We were told they'd be all over the streets but when we went down into town around 10:30 pm, I could only find a couple. These guys were about 1/2 the size of a normal penguin. So cute as the waddled up the street. Since it was dark, I have no pics.

BagLady

WATCH DATES -Posts out of order!!!!!!!

When uploading, somehow the date order got screwed up. Beware!


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Otago Rail Trail

Jan 19th and 20th
Cromwell.

Gary and me eating fish and chips:



Gary and I took a lazy morning getting started because it was raining quite heavily. Since I had decided against doing the cycle trail to Queenstown, Gary agreed to give me a lift to Cromwell. From there I would cycle further east to Clyde to pick up the Otago Rail Trail.

Getting started around noon, we passed a cyclist I knew from Switzerland on a recumbent. I knew he had cycled the trail I was skipping so I stopped him to find out how it was. Tough! Ok. Glad I didn't do it:)

Made a side trip, at my request, to Arrowtown, a quaint village near Queenstown. Very small. Historic western type buildings. Bicycle shindig for the kids with all kinds of bikes: big wheel old fashion bike, trike, lawn mower bike, and more.


And they had a western band and can can dancers.



Also, I tried whitebait patties, a local delicacy. Tiny slivers of fish in an egg like patty on white bread. Didn't do much for me, but I tried it.

On to Cromwell. The drive was another glorious route through picturesque valleys. Mostly downhill. Oh, I wished I'd ridden from Arrowstown. Would have been fun.

Three days riding in the car was exhausting. I'm feeling jet lag or something. My head is buzzing. I feel motion sickness and just overall worn out. Too fast. Too hard to see everything. But I was thankful for Gary taking me out there and back. And I've been laughing at his British humor for 3 days. That's probably part of the exhaustion. He's a rip of a guy. The British Archie Bunker!

So today I packed up Blaze, said goodbye to Gary and pedaled off to find this rail trail. I've had some concern about biking on this gravel surface. It's hard with a trike. But we'll give it a try.



Would someone please tell me what these dead dangling things are in the fences and why they're here? I see them all over. Look line rabbit carcasses. But why?

25 kms into the 150 km trail and I'm beat from the bouncing around and the crunching sound of gravel. I do like the lack of cars and the views! Don't know if its enough. I can only travel at 4-5 mph, half of my pedal speed. And the sun is brutal. Even with sunscreen from first thing this morning, I'm crisp. May need a different brand. The skin on the tops of my thighs and my forearms is like leather. Crazy. How much can it take? And I use an umbrella almost all day.


This is a shed for the gangers that worked on the railroad. They could store gear in here or take a smoke break.

The other day this article about this rail trail caught my eye




Yup, 80 yr old guy did this 150 km trail in a day. About 10 hours. I'm impressed!!


Oh and I have to post a picture of Gary's tent. He was so proud of this tent that he bought his daughter for Christmas. $750 and he got it for $180. Suppose to be a 2 person and you could sleep at least 8 people easily.


Goodnight,
BagLady

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Southern Hospitality

Jan 23rd
Heading to East Coast on 85
South Island, New Zealand

Love the Kiwis! This morning a farmer in his truck pulled up to my tent before I was up. My heart started to speed up. Memories of last summer and disgruntled gentlemen telling me to move on came back. It was morning and I was moving on soon, but the feeling of "upsetment" was there. So I stick my head of unbrushed, unwashed hair out of the tent and smile "Good Morning! I'll be packing up soon."

"No worries, just wondered if you were all right."

Really? Worried. Not mad that I'm camping next to your gate? And of course he has that wonderful NZ accent.

Later while I was packing he came back by the other way and tooted. I waved. Simple kindness. Set the tone for the day.

Now on the map there are several towns on this road to the coast. I watered up at the last one. Maybe 3 liters. Good for the night. And last night I tried to scrub the waxy film of sunscreen off and used a bit more than I usually do. So coffee was 1/2 cup this morning. And 1/2 liter for the road, until the next town.

Pedal on...pedal on. No town. Hmmm? May need to yogi some water off a motorist.

(Another truck of lambs just passed:(...hope your short life was happy. Namaste.)

Do I find a pullover and pull over. Need a place for cars to stop. And I stand there with my empty water bottle mimicking "drink" and shaking the bottle. The first car to stop had just a couple ounces, but I took it. The next car had Diet Coke. Thanks but that will make me thirstier. Several other cars just kept going. Oh well. I'll keep on. Try again later. I still have a wee bit (as they would say here:)).

Nice downhill. Whee. Slow up for a marker. Thinking of stopping to read it. Hear a beep from behind and pull up. They tell "We've got water!" They had passed me, discussed their water situation, decided they had extra, and turned around to find me. How kind is that? What a day!

I'm biking through undulating low mountains. Farms here. Lots if sheep. A road. Some cars. Nothing else. Until I get to Palmerton tonight. With enough water, I'm happy:))


This afternoon brought more good stuff. I stopped to check out an historic stone bridge and this couple there, after giving me the 3rd degree:), told me about a stop right up the road at a CREEK! Yippee. I get to wash my hair! Not going to do a full wash up because I need to keep on this wax they call sunscreen. Paraffin. That's what it is!

Then when I got to Palmerston, the last town before turning north, I wasn't sure I'd arrived. No sign. So I stopped this bloke and asked, Where's Palmerston? You're here! How do I get to the coast? Depends on where you want to go. Then he proceeded to give me directions to a beach campsite. Sweet! How about water? Got to the outdoor drinking fountain at the primary school around the corner. You were the right guy to talk to!

So here I lay, looking out my tent to the east coast of the South Island of New Zealand. I'll have to get a feet in the water picture in the morning. Blaze has the best view! She deserves it!!! What a trooper she's been. Trudging up those hills in this heat...and only an occasional squeak out of her. Go Blaze!!



That's water and sand just past my bike.

Tonight I had my first "creepy guy" incident. And tonight I'm sleeping with my knife handy. He was definitely checking me out. He parked on the gravel road that leads back to these sites snd walked through my area to the beach, chatted with me a minute as he walked back to hus car then hung in his car pretending to be listening to tunes while I changed and went for a swim. Left here and parked a bit further up and then walked the beach until he could see me. Just hanging around. This is kinda like a wooded campground. Just not official. I can't see the other spots because of bushes between us. I did find some other people here. He seems to have gone. I'm not leaving. Too tired and too nice a spot. I wish I'd gotten his license plate #. He better not mess with me tonight! Thank goodness that's a rare event.

I'll be fine. It's just creepy.

Creeped Out BagLady

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Lambs to Slaughter

Jan 22nd

The Otago Rail Trail went through the cutest little towns with restored buildings like in our West. Tourism from the trail has brought them business. There was more to see but I'm trying my darnedest to get back to Wellington by the 30th for Kiwi & Alison going away party. And I'm a long ways away. Over 400 miles. Gotta get the bus!

It's a sad time to be cycling through sheep country. It's lamb slaughtering time. The other day I got to watch a farmer sort his herd through a 3 way gate as the sheep came down a narrow chute. It was fun watching the dogs working. I couldn't get over how high they can jump over fences. But then later, chatting with someone, I found out they were sorting out the lambs from their mothers. :(((. And there's been a lot of baaing going on at night. Probably moms and babies. Then I've seen the trucks filled with lambs go by and I say a special prayer for them. I connect with the livestock while I'm cycling. I talk to them. Sometimes I frighten them...not on purpose. But I look in their eyes and I connect. And I'm having a hard time with the coldness one must have to raise and slaughter these helpless beings. I couldn't do it.

While I was writing this journal just now, I looked out and this was my view of the sunset. How lucky am I? And it's quiet except for the sheep....baa!


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Milford Sound

Jan 17th and 18th
Te Anau, South Island, NZ

Cycled into Queenstown. Brisk morning with temps in the 40s. Crazy tourist town in a spectacular setting.



How'd ya like to live on that strip of land?

So the plan was for "Gary of England" to phone me after he dropped his daughter off at the airport...2ish. I found a coffee shop to charge stuff and eat, of course. And while I'm sitting there 3 guys from Europe that I met on the Crown Range the day before showed up...and then moments later Ben (of Ben and Laura, who I flew over the river with...Laura's headed onward to Asia) appears. Just got to a new town and I've had more contacts than having coffee in Fairport. What's wrong with this picture? Actually everything is right with it. I've known for a long time I didn't fit in Fairport.

So I chatted with Ben about the cycle trail to Te Anau and my concerns about the 2 track and the trike. He's gonna text me what he thinks after he does it, since I'm planning to do it in reverse. Out to Milford Sound by car with Gary from London, then bike the trail back to Queenstown. At least that was the plan that day.

Since I had some time, I ran some errands then decided to find a place to dry Rainbow, my tent. Oh there's a little park. Pull her out. Spread her out. Spread out her ground cloth. What's that pitter patter I hear. Is that rain? No! It's getting harder quickly. I can restuff her in a hurry. I have a hard enough time getting her in her bag anyways. She just hates it in there and fights me every step of the way. Oh, stuff her under Blaze...quickly. Now she's wetter than she was. It lightens up, I repack her and give up the idea if drying for now. Thank goodness that doesn't happen often. Back to the coffee shop to wait out the rain. Eventually it's really sunny, I get Rainbow dried out, meet an interesting girl from Sweden who's been living all over the world for 10 years, settling and working wherever she goes. Gary calls. We meet up. The car us a hatchback and when he opens it, it's filled to the gills. Not organized. He thinks if we unpack everything, put Blaze in, and then stuff all the rest in neatly, it will all fit. You got to be crazy!



It did!! Barely!

So off we go towards Milford Sound, a couple hundred kms away with plans to camp somewhere that night.



Driving along I felt like I was missing everything. There were many photo ops that just flew by. This is too fast! We passed Te Anau and decided to camp at a DoC site north of there. Pulled in and found all the spots quite rustic and Gary's is huge. 2 cabins. Tough to find a spot for it. We decide to set up just his and we each can use a separate area. What a monster to set up. 3 poles. 20 stakes. Palatial! What will I do with all this room?

Next morning we still had nearly 100 kms to drive. And it was a mind blowing trip through forested areas and then majorly steep high mountains. Right there. There's also this long creepy tunnel that's one lane and down hill. Sorta lit...sorta. I'm so glad I didn't have to bike that! Claustrophobic! Then one hell of a downhill to the sound. No fun to bike up. Nope. So only minor regrets I didn't bike out.

The view there is unlike anything I've ever seen. The tide was out.


Even though it was cold, I had to get my feet in the water!




BagLady

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Rest Day in Wanaka.

Jan 15th, Tuesday, I think:)

My rendition of Lake Wanaka.



I'm having such fun playing with this watercolor and ink. And when I finish and it really looks like something, I feel amazed. I've never felt I had artistic talent (could be what the art teacher said:/), but I've always felt artistic inside. It's nice when I can see it sprouting out!

Doing a zero day in a campground: playing cards with kids, cleaning up Blaze, painting, organizing, doing a bit of handwashing that dried on the line (saved me $7:)), a bit of yoga and lots of chatting. Even the kids have mentioned how social I am.

It's nice to take a day off in good weather and be outdoors too...as long as there are no sand flies biting. Tomorrow I'm going over the highest paved road on the South Island...Crown Range. I'm excited! Then I still have to figure out how to explore Fiordland. The answer will come to me, I'm sure.

Jan 16th. Wednesday.
Almost to Queenstown

I've met some wonderful people here at the campground. First there's Stephen, a guy from Cape Town South Africa (and Canada) that works for the UN on projects involving setting up elections. (Stephen, how's that for a quick summary?). He's on his first big tour in quite a while. It's been fun sharing war stories about bike travel and other stuff.



Then there's the Smiths: Mark, Maree, AJ, MacKenzie, and twins, Danya and...oh oh...I'm in trouble now. The other girl has a sweet name beginning with S and unusual and I don't think it was ever spelled for me. And now I can't remember it. Pls, S, forgive me. You can give me 40 lashes with a wet noodle when I get to your house in ChristChurch...after you write it out for me. I learned to play a form of Monopoly Deal with them. Lost though:(. And they all rode Blaze. She was gentle and didn't buck anyone off. They were at the campground because their car blew a head gasket coming down the steep hill I climbed today. Too expensive to repair. Dad had to do some shuttling by bus to meet family halfway and borrow a car to haul their trailer of kayaks and camping toys home. So I got to play with the kids! Always fun for me. Made plans to visit them in ChristChurch when I get there.



I also met Bruce and Emma, father and young daughter. He has a sheep station on the south coast. If I can get down there I can play with sheep! Haven't figured out how to make that happen. Hmm?

And last was Gary, a British guy whose daughter works in Wellington. He's bopping around the South Island by car and we may hook up in Queenstown tomorrow and travel out to Milford Sound together. All depends on if I can get Blaze into his car. So funny how these things come together. I was sitting in the campground kitchen googling about buses to Milford Sound when Gary walked in and we got to chatting. And this plan come to fruition. If Blaze doesn't fit I don't have a plan B right now.





So today was a major climb. Crown Range. Looking back, it made Haast Pass look like a bump. My legs are whupped. It took me 7.5 hours to cycle 30 miles. The climb was 10 miles. And it was steep especially the last couple of miles. Pedal, pedal, rest, rest. I only go a couple of meters sometimes before resting. Sometimes I pick a spot ahead, and tell myself you can't stop until you get there. Sometimes I don't make it. It's interesting listening to my body find its rhythm. It's so resistant in the beginning and then if the grade is good, I can find a pace that I can maintain and my body feels strong and happy. At the top I put on Shania Twain and I'm dancing in my seat with my arms flailing and I'm singing away and pumping hard!!! What a sight! I get a lot of thumbs up. And they sure do help the mood. So everybody out there, when you see cyclist, toot, wave, thumbs up...cheer them on. You may be just what they need:)

Food today:
Coffee
Fruit yogurt

Peanut butter and jelly sandwich
Apricot
Plum
Nectarine
Brie and bread
Another pb&j sandwich

Banana and Nutella

Pasta, pesto, and cauliflower for dinner.

And there'll be something more.

BagLady


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Two Extremes

Jan 13th
Hawea Lake



In the mountains, on a hill, in a clearing...thunder...THUNDER! Flashes of lightening! Am I exposed up here? There's other stuff higher than me. Then rain. Then heavy rain. Then drip...drip...drip. I'm getting wet. Touch the outside of my sleeping bag. Oh, not good. But it's still warm and dry inside. No sense getting up til this thing passes. If it passes. Storms seem to get hung up over the mountains here and can stay all day. Ok. Start to pack up in the tent. Be ready when there's a break to get to the picnic shelter where Blaze spent the night. At least I thought that much ahead. Ok. Now's your chance. It's stopped for a moment. Whoa! Other people in here. We moved your bike trying to keep it drier as the rain blew in. Thanks.

It was a beautiful sight out over the valley with the rain and mist and fog. But it wasn't showing signs of letting up. Have some coffee. Pack the wet tent. Get ready to go. A small town is just 6 miles down the road. If the rain keeps up I can stay there today. Time to make my getaway. Up with the umbrella. Pedal off. This is delightful. What a great day. My pants are soaked through, top to bottom, but I'm grinning from ear to ear. I want to bike further than 6 miles. But my sleeping bag is soaked and my tent is dripping wet. If I can't dry these 2 essential things, I can't camp out tonight. And after this town, there's nothing for about 40 miles. And we all know that's not going to happen. Not with a late start and needing to take time to dry out.

This town had a cafe and I was greeted by a group of cyclists on an organized tour. One woman also ride a trike although their bikes were loaded up on the van. Too wet on the road to bike they told me. It's a great day for biking, I reply grinning! Turns out I was able to help the triker with the handicap sticker idea for her trike. She actually qualified. I also helped the tour leader by sharing my design for a box for her trike to get it home. She wasn't ready to just take it to the counter inboxes. Know that feeling. Over it!

Got my bag and tent dry while having a coffee and wifi. Lots of talking story. Lots of interest in my tour. Fun sharing:)

The weather changed for the better as I continued on. Two lakes today, I was told. That's an understatement. OMG!






I couldn't wipe that grin off my face all day:). What a ride!

But then the sun got to be too much. Because I haven't bathed in 4 days I have layers of sunscreen over layers of bug dope. And the oil from the bug dope is winning...and I'm frying out here. Can't hide my whole body under that tiny umbrella.

Did figure out how to get it to work helping to push me when the wind's at my back. Faced the top into the wind and tucked part of it behind my body so it was pinned keeping it from collapsing with my head. I could feel the assist up several hills today and I could keep it open on the wind, a plus!



From heavy rains to scorching sun! A great day cycling in NZ!

Gleeful BagLady

Food today:
Coffee at camp
Flat white coffee at cafe

Leftovers of last night's pasta dish for lunch

Passion fruit and yogurt ice cream stick pre-dinner snack

Tuna, mayo, and chopped onion on 1/2 pita for dinner
Nutella on 1/2 pita for dessert

2 Digestives at bedtime.

My food bag is pretty empty. I hope I can get salad fixings in Wanaka, next town...tomorrow.



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Up and Over

Jan 12, 2012
After Haast Pass

I did it! I cycled over Haast Pass! It wasn't that high, but it was very steep. It took me nearly 2 hours to climb it and it was only a couple of kilometers up. Slow and steady...not so steady:). Lots of stopping. I kept reminding myself that I would get to the top eventually. No different than a long hike. Ya just gotta keep moving forward. Beats going to the gym!!! And my legs always feel so much stronger afterwards. Little hills always feel easier.

Tonight's view from a DoC (Dept of Conservation) campsite was so incredible that I kept thinking it was a backdrop.



The photo doesn't do it justice but I tried up capture it. It's a view back to Haast Pass.

Food today. Coffee for breakfast. Lunch was red pepper tuna with mayo and avocado in a pita and Nutella on Digestives for dessert. Orange for snack near top of pass. Tomatoes, onions, green peppers and garlic over pasta. Nutella cookies for dessert. And a couple of swigs of my Christmas wine. Amazing how well that keeps. I'm stuffed!

I talked with this couple of locals here at the campground about Fiordland and biking there. First he said the road from Te Anau out to Milford Sound is the most beautiful road in NZ and I should bike it to appreciate it. Second he said the road south from Wanaka, although a shorter route to Queenstown was more beautiful yet hillier. I think in going to take it. I'm feeling a bit cocky having just come over Haast Pass today:)

G'night,

Pumped Up BagLady


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