Rolling on Down the Road

Feb 18, 19, 20, 2013
Tokaanu, NZ

I've been working my way across the middle and then down the west coast of Lake Taupo.

Camping spots have been:

18th - Lake in Mangakino that the clerk in the grocery store told me about. Free camping and the cutest Bus Stop Cafe. I had a hard time leaving that place in the morning.



19th - Tihio Tavern after I stopped for ice cream I noticed lots of green grassy spots nearby.

20th - Marina in Tokaanu. Another sweet spot on the water.

Been lots of rolling countryside, cows, sheep, and horses. Reminds me so much of Oregon or even Wyoming. Every road is beautiful.

And it's hot! Searing sun. Without the umbrella, I'd be toast.

The other problem has been food. Not many stores in these here parts. I've had mashed potatoes for 3 nights in a row. With steamed veggies. And added flavoring like creamy chicken soup flavoring or garlic margarine. It's amazing what comes out of that feed bag some nights. Tomorrow I have to shop for the next week's food including the 4 day volcano hike. My pack for that hike is small. I'm going to go ultralight. But have to be prepared for all weather up there. Should be interesting to see how this all comes together: the food, the gear, the small pack.

We'll know in a couple of days.
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A Day That Ends Well

Feb 17, 2013
Kopaki, NZ



This morning I was stopped because these folks thought I was someone else. This guy, Mike Avery, from Hawera rides a trike and has toured all over NZ. They thought I was him. Gotta google this guy and check out his blog.

Then I stopped for a treat at a fruit farm where a lot of cars were parked and this lady says "How did you get here already? I passed you just outside of New Plymouth and I was driving 100 kph!" Turns out there's someone else riding a trike too.

Then tonight when I'm trying to figure out a place to camp at these crossroads, I see a guy walking his dog. Ask him. Sure, up by the old school building on the hill. Works for me. Then after dinner, when I was out taking a walk, his wife pulls up in the car and invites me in for tea. Tea here is dinner. I've already eaten but I'll join you for a hot drink. Ben and Cathy have an agricultural helicopter business. And been married nearly 40 years. There kids are all married with kids and live nearby. How lucky is that?!! And I got 2nd dinner...yummy steak! I'm a bad vegetarian but I can't seem to pass up meat in this country. It's so good and healthy. And I got a shower!! What a wonderful evening it turned out to be. Thanks for everything, Cathy and Ben, but mostly for your kindness! It's moments like tonight that proves to me how good people are in this world. And it just warms my heart.

The following picture is for my brother, Steve. I'm sure he doesn't read my blog but maybe he'll see it somehow.

That is a golf course with sheep grazing on it! The dark spots in the center are guys pulling their carts. And the green spot is the green.



Cheaper than mowing don't ya think? And you can sell the wool and mutton to support the course and keep the fees down.

Now I lay my down to sleep,

BagLady

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Heading Inland

Feb 16, 2013
Somewhere on Rte 3 just east of Mahoenui, NZ



My breakfast spot this morning at the mouth of the Tongaporutu River. Having my favorite breakfast of cantaloupe and yogurt. Just missing some dry oatmeal sprinkled in it. Can't have everything. Just appreciate what I do have.

Now the washing dishes, which actually consists of licking them clean. I have this fabulous plastic folding bowl by Orikaso that unfolds flat to make a plate or cutting board. It also makes it easier to lick it clean. Now the knife and the spork. All clean! Folks wanta know about life on the road:). I wash things a bit more in camp at night...maybe...if there's enough water:/

Did the math last night and to make it to where I'm meeting up with Moa to hike the Tongariro Crossing, I need to hike 50 kms every day. That's 30 miles. Easy peasy. If nothing else more interesting happens along. But because I go look at every view, chat with anyone who stops to talk, and find a million and one reasons to not pedal, it's a bit harder.

Like today. Early start. Before 8:30. Then stopped for that delicious breakfast. Then noticed unusual rock formations on the rock face behind me. Took pics. Caught a guy's attention when he tried to figure out what I was looking at. Went to tell him and ask him if he knew what they were. Circles on the cliff wall. All at the same height. About 100 ft up. He thought rocks fell out from there. No. Bye.

Pedal on to a small town. Go down to a view. Check my map app to see how far I've gone. Notice there will not be any stores for about 75 kms. Go to store. Must eat! Chat with folks about bike and trip. Get chicken pie and muffin and banana and water refill. Bike on to scenic point to eat. Meet guy. Want a hot drink. Well, not really...but Yes. He and family are renting house for weekend. We chat. They get the No TV idea for kids. Boredom movement. Kids hate to be bored and if left to their own devices they WILL entertain themselves. Nice to meet smart parents who "Get IT!" Let everyone ride Blaze. Leave. Go down big hill. Remember I left sari behind. Bike back up it:(.



Pedal, pedal, pedal. Oops. Forgot to dry tent from heavy dew. Stop. Lay out tent and ground cloth. Listen to music. Dance. Fluff tent. Dance. Pack up pedal on.

Beautiful gorge today. 36 miles. Long steep climb late in day. Found spot just off road where road gravel was stored some time. Challenge is getting a stake in this hard packed soil. Bam. Bam. With rock. Barely in.

Dinner of Brie, crackers, apple. Banana and Nutella for dessert. Tea now. And hot bath!

Journal done. Hugs to everyone. Thanks for all your notes back to me. Love feeling the connection. It gets lonely out here all by myself:(


Found this beautiful tiny bird dead on the road.

Bird BagLady



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Piki, Tom, and I Fixed It!!!

Feb 15, 2013
West Coast, North Island, NZ

Some days are full of surprises and this was one of those days.

First, I had to learn a lesson: always put gear AWAY when you are done with it. Away proper. Where it belongs. Or else you'll create havoc! Recharged my iPod off of the solar rechargeable battery pack. Unclipped the iPod, and just flung the cord (which was still attached to charger which was tucked into seat pocket) over my head onto the stuff on the back of the bike. It can't go anywhere. I'll take care of it next time I stop.

I'm biking along and hear a "clink". Strange noises always concern me. Its slipping gears. What's going on? Stop. Get off. Check rear dereilleur. What's that white cord wrapped around it? Oh, my iPod cord! Trashed! Lesson learned, I hope.

Later, I'm trucking up this hill...or is that trudging?...and it's not shifting smoothly nor dropping into her lowest gear. Stop. Get off. Can't see anything obvious. Unload everything. Look closer. Now it's not shifting right at all. Cable is too long. What's going on? I don't know "jack shit" about my dereilleur. I'll try adjusting the High/Low screws. That did nothing. I'm screwed ! I can't ride it like this. I'll have to hitch back to New Plymouth. Damn!

Then Piki stops. She's heading the way I was riding.

Are you okay?

No, bike's broken. I need to hitch back to New Plymouth.

There's a guy up where I live that can fix most anything. Why don't you come and let him take a look.

Ok. (What have I got to lose?)

And that's when I met Tom.


He's a Dutchman, that's lived here a long time. And a character. Couldn't tell if he was really smart or a touch crazy...probably both! With my head and his tools, I finally figured out that the rear cable screw was loose and the cable fully slipped. Now how to reattach it and what length does it need to be. Trial and error until it would flow through all the gears. I fixed it...with a little help from my friends:)

Second lesson learned today: take your time, get to a quiet place, and think your problem through. Don't panic.

Then we all sat on the grass and chatted. Tom brought me an old bucket of water, bar of soap, a clean and tattered washcloth and towels. I could get the grease off my hands. When I finished I carried it over to him to do the same. A special sharing. I can't explain it more. So simple and yet so deep.



I loved the house. Wonderful energy inside...rich history. It's in Piki's family. I got a tour, the history of the family (18 children), and a bit of philosophy of getting back to the earth. We all hugged and before I left, Piki gave me her shell necklace, taking off her neck and putting it on mine.

I truly believe everything today happened for a reason. It's an amazing universe!

And tonight I'm camped behind the sweetest school with picnic tables, outside faucet for water and a pool that I couldn't figure out the latch to. Oh well. Bath in a cup again tonight.

BagLady


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91 Year Young Gwen

Feb 13 and 14, 2013
New Plymouth NZ

The night before, Mrs. Moa texted me that they had a friend in New Plymouth if I wanted a place to stay. Yes! And that's how I met Gwen.

After a quick tour of NP and finding a Speedo bikini that fit great (I've been looking for a suit since I arrived), I showed up at "Corner Cottage 84" a bit earlier than I planned.





No one was about so I sat on the porch to wait, when a neighbor, Anne, and son, Larry, arrived to say they were looking out for me as Gwen had gone to the store. There she comes, up the hill pulling a wheeled shopping bag. And it's quite a steep hill. Good on ya, Gwen!



She's quite the gardener doing both her own and the church's. She was a Plunkett nurse (an excellent program here that provides new mother training and support after the birth of a child) and a midwife. And she's still a "tough cookie"...my kind of woman! She used to go to London every NZ winter until recently. That couldn't have been an easy trip.

After a leisurely breakfast and tea with the neighbors, I headed in to New Plymouth, still trying to decide where I was going. Do I hike the volcano? Do I bike the Forgotten Highway? Do I have enough info to decide? Well, it turned out the iSite (NZ info center) was at the museum. And the museum had a special exhibit on prefab houses. And I'm very interested in house design. Especially smaller houses. And they had 4 model homes there on the waterfront! Jackpot! I especially loved the iPad (named long before Apple used it).



Indoor/outdoor living!

After checking the weather and being exhausted by the winds, I decided not to do either and continue up the coast. I have a full week to fill (before hooking up with Moa and friends for the volcano hike) and can cover over 350 kms in that time. So I'll head north then east them south to the park.

Last night I had a treat. I stopped early for me because the wind was beating me up in every direction. I saw this park, pulled in, and wandered to find a place out of the wind. Rose gardens. And in Valentine's Day! So that's where I spent the night!!

BagLady

Spectacular Evening View

Feb 12, 2013
Opunake Beach, NZ




This is tonight's view of my campsite.

'Nuff said!

Bedazzled BagLady


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Cows

Feb 10th
Patea, NZ



Highlight of today was this herd of steers. When I see them laying down close to the road, I know they'll all stand up if I stay nearby, so I act like I'm directing them. "Ok, you guys! Everybody up!" And I signal for them to rise. And they do! Then they start to come towards me, curious as hell. Today was extra fun because this herd of about 20-30 just kept moving. First they got scared and they start heading to the right. Then they stop and watch me. Then they start going to the left. Then stop and turn. Then walked closer. Then darted running directly away. "But wait! Why are you leaving?" The stopped and turn and started running towards me. I was rolling on the road laughing. They kept me entertained for 15-20 minutes I'll bet. You had to see them! I wished I'd had a video. Back and forth they went. It was fun to watch the herd mentality. No one was a leader. And all the time you'd a thought I had voice control over them! Ok. So I'm easily amused:). Or hard up for entertainment! I played with some horses a bit today but they just spook. Some are more curious than others.

Headwinds was the word of the day. Powerful ones! Took me one long day to do 30 miles. But I can sure feel myself getting stronger and stronger. I was trucking up some hills!

Had my first pissy driver today. Wide open road. Only car. And he lays on the horn. Really? I'm in your way? How can that be?

I have had a lot more hello honks and waves here on the North Island than I did down south. I like it! Cheers me up. Makes me feel wanted. Most people who've seen me on the road and then meet me in town think Blaze is hard to bike. The other common comment is "You must be fit!" I suppose I am. Feels good to exercise hard every day.

I'm in the cutest, emptiest campground tonight with only 2 old men and me. But it's in a small hamlet where the Patea River meets the Tasman Sea. And oh, the sunset was marvelous! And I got to take a shower, wash my clothes, and cook dinner in a kitchen...all for $10. Not bad.


Goodnight,
BL




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Pies

Feb 9th
Wanganui, North Island NZ

I've found I love pies. I've always loved Swanson Chicken Pot Pie especially as a kid. Well, they're everywhere here. What a concept! All baked little pies, meat or veggie, grab and go! Usually about $4. Flakey. Tasty. Cheap.



Not a particularly interesting day. Pedaled up. Pedaled down.

But dinner was good though: ramen noodles, tuna, onion, mayo cold salad with sautéed green beans and cauliflower and fresh parm. Yum!

That couple, Tom and Shiela, that I met a couple of days ago asked me about free camping spots and how I find them. "No Man's Land," I said. And tonight that's particularly true. My one requirement tonight was: not within hearing distance of the main road. I need quiet. So I turned off Rte 3 onto a side road, then onto a side off of that. And I'm camped on the wide edge just past the shoulder. One woman went by and waved:). Guess I'm not freaking the neighbors out. There are some rural homes sorta in site. I almost camped right in town at the large park where I cooked dinner. Woulda worked, I'm sure. There was also a large dog obedience campus someone walking suggested to me, but I worried about pee and poop and early dog walkers. Another option was the Quaker Settlement the same guy suggested. I rode in but couldn't find anyone to ask and there were signs of lots of people (cars) so I opted not to just set up. I've never asked permission...just forgiveness:)

The bewitching hour has arrived.

Goodnight.

Bewitched BagLady


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Feb 10, 2013
Hawera, New Zealand

Walking on the black sand beach with a local started my day. Barry, the camp host, asked me to knock when I was heading out to the beach this morning. So I did. And I got the tour. There are 3 houses that were buried in the cliff many years ago by a tsunami. There was the hull of a ship the capsized in the 1930's. we didn't go all the way down (because the tide was coming in) to the whale carcass. Then Barry gave me a photo he had taken of the shore during a storm. And then I was off.

Forecast, rain late in day. Ugh.

Got into town. Got to chatting. Checked out a local museum. Finally started down the road. I had no energy. And there were headwinds...again. Which means, no umbrella. Which means, no shade. I stopped noon ish to take a nap but before I could put my head down, a couple of cycle tourists that I had seen fly by in town pull over. We share the usual info. Olivier had lots of interest in Blaze. They'd been on the road for over 3 years. Real cycle tourists!!! Not just the wanna-be's like me:). There gear was weathered. They had a lot of unique items like the mint plant potted and riding on the front fender.


And they were loaded!











And they really wanted me to bike with them even when I said I was so slow. So off we went. And I kept up...mostly. They are very loaded so that slowed them down.

The best was dumpster diving with them! I'd forgotten about that free food source. And we hit it big behind a gas station: 10 or more meat pies, a loaf of Vogel bread (the good stuff), and muffins and sandwiches. What a haul!

The guy came over asking what we were doing and Olivier, with his exuberance and French accent said, saving a part of the starving world with good food thrown away.

Tonight we're camped in a cow pasture, plops included...just no cows. Olivier asked a farmer. They also just went up to a house for water at the end of the day. I don't usually ask. And I carry water from the bathroom in town. Love learning new ways.

They're hustling north. They plan to spend 6 months sailing the Pacific on a boat somehow, then off to Australia in Sept. More years planned for the road. Got to ask them how they find doing this.

They shared a delicious dinner that Nadege fixed of lentils and onions and cumin. And lamb they got from the guy that took them in last night. Yum! And fresh herbal tea.

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Always a Good Morning

Feb 8, 2013
Rugby field, Sanson, North Island NZ

It's always a good morning that's starts out with meeting people. While packing up and drying out, Lloyd and Amy, locals going away to the South Island for 6 weeks in their campervan pulled in to make some coffee and invited me over. Always say Yes! So I did. They are, I'd guess, mid 60s, but retired at 45 and have traveled since. One country at a time, slowly and thoroughly. In always jealous when I meet couples like this, doing this...that's what I want...I think...

The North Island is reminding me a lot of the States. Small towns scattered up the road. I was going to say highway, but they don't really have any here. Some motorways near cities is all I've seen. These roads go right through towns. Towns with shops and services. Nice size. No signs of dead towns like we have littering the landscape. And the libraries are amazing, now that I've discovered them! Many are bright, modern, new, with free wifi and a cafe. What a concept! Like a community center and people commune there! Pleasantly surprised. Now that there's more towns here, I'll aim for them.



And today brought fruit and veggie stands. Hadn't seen those before. Got some strawberries and cauliflower. Had steamed cauliflower with fresh Parmesan, pesto and pasta...and chocolate covered strawberries for dessert!



Stopped to do something today and looked over at the fence across the street. What is hanging on there?! LOL!




And I have to throw in a pic of my new best friends! When I stopped these guys were all laying down. I had fun chatting with them. Such fun!



Bathed BagLady

(In a cup of WARM water tonight...it's getting downright chilly when the sun goes down!)



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