Sleep Deprived

June 15, 2014
Coimbra, Portugal

Music, World Cup game announcement, talent show, partiers...we had it all last night. And like Spain, the Portugese don't believe in sleeping at night. It's cool then, so PARTY! The music was great! So rhythmic and emotional, I found myself I initially grooving to it while it penetrated my sleeping brain. But this was the 2nd night of poor sleep so it didn't stay enjoyable for long.

But first I need to tell the story of getting here. Nothing is ever simple in the travels of trike touring and now with 2 trikes the adventures are magnified more than twofold. We cycled into Plasencia, Spain, a town I thought would have public transportation out to Portugal. Given the heat wave, April and I decided it might be cooler at the coast. Then, too, we'd have a slow leisurely trip down the coast to Lisbon with plenty of time to catch our June 30th flight to London.

So I go into the bus station to find out about a bus to Porto, Portugal. The guy doesn't speak English but writes on a piece of paper the names of 2 "somethings" about where I get the bus to Portugal. I sit down and figure out these are 2 towns south of us. They must be the connections. Ok, let's see what the train folks have to say. They say we have to go back to Madrid to get the train to Porto. Not doing that! But a train goes to Caceres, the first town on my list. Let's take the train to Caceres and there catch the bus to Porto. Sounds like a plan! They said the bus' bike section was full, but she'd ask the conductor when the train arrived if our bikes could go on. Yes! And off we go for an hour's ride to Caceres, Spain. Lucky us. The bus station is across the street. They tell us we have to go to Salamanca to get a bus to Porto. And stay over one night because the only bus leaves at midday. We have 2 bikes...special bikes. Fold them small. Ok. Out in the platform a guy comes by shaking his head. "Too big!!" he motions and says in Spanish. (I'm getting really good at reading body language:)). So we start to fold them. He motions that he'll have to look at the bus when it arrives. Turns out he's the next driver. He checks all the bus' bays but says nothing to us. Wait, I tell April. It's a game they all play. He hasn't said No, yet. After changing drivers and their briefcases he opens a rear bay and motions for us to load it up Yea! Luckily April has great spatial awareness and can see how best to get these buggers in this small space. On they go. Off we go.

What's that exit sign say I ask an hour later? Plasencia? That's the town we left a couple of hours ago! This bus is STOPPING in Plasencia on its way to Salamanca. We're right back to where we started. That effing bus ticket guy!!! He didn't know what he was talking about!! Arghhhh!!! The adventure continues because things are just seeming so challenging. So we'll go to Salamanca and figure it out from there. Maybe we can get the train from there to Porto. The train is definitely more fun than the bus and usually easier with the trikes.



We arrive in Salamanca to spend the night. April found us online a place to stay for 40 € right in the old section of town near the Plaza Mayor. That should be great if they can handle our trikes. We unload our pile of gear and trike pieces onto the platform and commence to reassemble to the stares if onlookers and clicking of cameras. We make quite a spectacle and it can be abut disconcerting in a crowd like that. Poor April's literally on the pavement screwing things back together. She's figured her trike out pretty quickly! Looks like we got it all! Let's get out of here. Using Google Maps on my phone, I figure out where to go, and we're off. One way streets! Yikes. Sidewalks it will have to be.

We get down to the plaza and it's "hoppening"! People everywhere. Hundreds of cafe tables and wide screen TVs. What's going on? We find our hotel and the first thing I notice is the steps up to a 2nd floor reception. I don't think this is going to work:(. But don't give up yet. I go up and ask about our bikes. Yes, we have a place: up those stairs I came up, down the narrow main hallway and out onto a rooftop. It will work, I exclaim!...not knowing if we can get them up those stairs or not! We can! We do! The lady receptionist is ever so helpful carry bags after bags of our gear up. Such kindness!

"Where's your blue sack?" Says April as we stuff our multitude of bags into this tiny room. Shit! I set it down to empty the bus and it got separated from all the rest. It's just got food scraps and odd junk in it. They never pick up litter here til morning, it's probably let still there. So I hustle on foot back. Nope not by the post where I set it. Not in the trash cans. Maybe Lost and Found. But who to ask? And how? Information is closed. There's a guy at a window. Use Google Translate. He's trying to call someone. Motions to wait 5 minutes. I pace. Go back down to the bus platform. A couple that work at a restaurant on the platform recognize me from the bike fiasco. I explain. He takes me over to a building and ask a guy who does maintenance there. Nada. Didn't see it. The couple says there was nothing left behind. Oh well. I tried. I hope whoever lifted it can use the coffee mug, knife, spork, folding bowl, visor, Boy Toy (for peeing by the side of the road), and bandannas it contained. Maybe someone in dire straits is benefitting. Nothing irreplaceable. Detachment from possessions is what this journey is about. And adjusting to whatever comes my way.

(This blog post is turning into a novel all on its own...and the story's not over:))

The hubbub in the Plaza Mayor is a festival AND opening World Cup. Game. Wild place to be!


The next day we head to the train station in the morning to figure out what our options are. 1 am??? The only train? Ok. We'll go by bus. We pack up and head to the bus staton. Full? Really? It's Friday. Busy time for busses. Guess it will have to be the 1 am train. And let's only go to Coimbra. Heard it was a cute city. We wheeled our loaded bikes into the train station to buy our tickets so they could see them. Don't think they can go, says the ticket man. Then he does his research. Only way is if we buy sleeper car tickets with births. They go in the compartment. Really? How much? 105 € each. Oh my!! The bus is half that. But this is Friday and if we wait for a Monday bus we'll have spent that staying here. Ok. And then the bikes can go.

Running errands, sitting around, replacing lost criticals from blue pack, eating, drinking...that's how we spent the next 12 hours. We're on the platform awaiting the train with our bikes still loaded because until we know what car to get on it's easier to move the stiff on the bikes. A man comes by. Not going to fit, he says. We motion that they fold. He shakes his head. But they saw the bikes and sold us the tickets. Not my problem, he motions. He leaves. We wait. Not giving up yet. We talk to some other officials, station guards probably. Guy comes back. Looks like he's the conductor. Still no. We tear the bikes apart and fold them. He's unsure. The train arrives. We don't know where to go. Of course. 4 cars down. We grab stuff and run. More stuff. Now wheel our folded bikes. He shows us compartment. No way! We hardly fit. April persists. Tried her trike. Nope. Quick release front wheels. They help her take them off. Hers will fit now. No, I say, mine don't gone off. Big mistake not having that option. Please! begs April. Find a place for her bike. He goes looking and finds a hallway in an engine car. I get it in. We're not responsible, he says. Meanwhile April with help has put her trike and all it's pieces and all our gear into this tiny 2 bunk sleeper car! Our home for the night! And once again....

WE'RE OFF!!!!!!!


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Across Spain

June 8, 2014
Calalso de Los Vidrios, Spain

Best night's sleep in a long time. I realized that sleeping in the albergues for 2 months was the longest I think I've slept indoors in awhile! No rainfly. Bright big moon. I've missed feeling the elements.



That's tonight's glorious sunset. It's been a majorly sunny day. Thank goodness for the umbrellas to provide shade or this cycling here now would be unbearable.

Today's ride had more hills and April and I both struggling. We've gained hiking legs but our biking legs are weak. We may have to catch a bus to shorten the distance if our mileage doesn't pick up. Time will tell. Always keep your options open.

But tonight we have a California view of rocky terrain and mountains:)t

June 9th

Should have paid closer attention and not climbed that hill out of town this morning:(. April wasn't too happy with be to say the least. But we pulled it together and got going in the right direction.

Hot! Hot! Hot! And windy. Headwinds! But the worst part about that was not being able to use my umbrella much. Yikes. Sizzling in the sun!! And sunscreen doesn't help. I could not find enough shade trees along side the road to suit me. Makes the UK look better and better this summer:)

Tonight we're camped up in an open and mowed meadow off an old road we found. Sweet spot next to an old stone wall with a view of the mountains to the north.




We're taking a primary road across underneath a mountain range to the north. If I had a real map, I might be able to tell you what mountains:). But who needs a real map when you have Google Maps? Now, power don't fail me! I've added a real power pack to my system that carries enough power for a couple of charges and it actually works on the iPhone. I can recharge it with my solar charger.

The countryside reminds me of cycling in Idaho up to Stanley. Rolling mountains. Beautiful. We've had some tough hills, but we made it up them:)

The people have been excited to see us: honking, waving, and clapping out the car windows! They stop to talk...and we usually are able to converse somehow. We stopped for breakfast at a field entrance and two country bumpkins (husband and wife, salt of the earth) came by. And you know they didn't speak English. So they spoke Spanish and we answered in English and a happy energy exchange was had! It's truly amazes me how people can communicate beyond language if they just try. One day we stopped some cyclists to ask directions. They spoke some English but had trouble finding the words. I to them to tell us in Spanish, we'd understand some. And we did. Hand gestures help a lot!

We are all one. And we need to remember that.

June 15th
Coimbra, Portugal

Guess I'd better finish this post about getting across Spain to Portugal. I'm trying to keep writing, but seem unable to do it daily.

Camping spots have been challenging. It's high desert that we've been crossing and lots of fenced off orchards with scrub on our side. Not conducive to camping. Crunchy. Rocky. Tilting. One night we were in the corner of an old orchard thinking we were all alone down this dirt road. Wrong. So many cars and bikes went by. No one seemed to care so we stayed. A couple of young woman one bikes came by and stopes to chat. They had seen us earlier on the road and taken our pictures, they told us. That happens a lot: taking random photos of us. We just smile and wave.

Back to our camp spot. So off to sleep we go only to be awakened by barking dogs! A pair nearby and another further away. No remember these are Spanish dogs, so they were siesta-ing all afternoon so we didn't hear a peep. Then when the sun sets about 10 pm they come alive and stay that way until around 4 am. Yup. Dogs can bark for 6 hours non stop! When they pair took a few minutes break, their distant buddy would fill the void. Oh la la! A good sleep is just impossible no matter how hard I try to ignore them.

Gotta start biking early to avoid the heat...no when I'm finally sleeping because the dogs are quiet. The sun is so hot it sears my skin. The umbrella gives most of my body shade, but my legs stick out and feel the pain. And it gets hot about 10 am! One day we did try to sit out if the worst of it about 3-4 pm. Boring! And when we started up, no difference. You'd have to bike at night to avoid the heat and pain of the sun. So we just pedaled on, coping as best we could.

They're having a heat wave here now. Higher than normal temps. Let's get to a town and catch a bus to the coast, I suggest!

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Camino Done...Triking Begun

June 7, 2014
just outside of Madrid, Spain




We finished the Camino de Santiago about a week ago, meeting up with an friend from earlier days on the Camino, Isabel, as she arrived in Santigo from the east and we got back from doing the Finisterre, Muxia, and back to Santiago loop. Old home week reconnecting for a day before we flew back to Madrid late Tuesday evening...on the ever eventful, Ryan Air. Cheap flights as long as you follow all the rules. Not printing your boarding pass can cost $100 extra. $30 to check a bag (so we shipped our poles and knives back to Monica's). We arrive at the airport 2 hours before the flight. We read all the fine print on our printed boarding passes as we're trying to figure out if we need to go to the desk (read..long line) if we have no bags to check. We decide No, and go through security. After our decent wait,the passengers start queuing up and we join them. Then April says, "I knew it! We have to have our boarding passes stamped at the desk...see, it's in big print!" Dang! Neither of us saw it until now. OMG, do we have time to run back out through security? Gotta try! Security doesn't understand us and has to find someone who speaks English. No one at the counter. It's closed. Security shrugs her shoulders at us, then says "Try Information." Mind you we are running around like chickens with our heads cut off, sure we are not getting on that flight. Where to go? WHo to see? Then April spies another Ryan AIr desk for who knows what. Wiiiiiiill they stamp it? Yes! All stamped,we head back through security and back into line (where we dropped out, I suggested) and then we wait because the plane hadn't even arrived...whew!!!

So after 3 delightful and restful days with Monica and Mauro, and there place felt like "home", today we packed our bikes and headed west towards Portugal. In my usual way of winging it, and not wanting to ride on the busy main road, we found dirt trails and farm roads on Google Maps and followed them, sort of paralleling the main road...sort of.... and then it showed that it was going to end because a river was coming up and only the main road crossed it nearby...and this main road didn't have an entrance ramp nearby. But we managed to find a tunnel under the main road and I decided to take a different route all together heading down to M 507 and then across. But you shoulda seen how Blaze and Wildfire handled themselves: Mountain Trikes! Truly we were mountain biking on these trikes....and only the heavy sand made us get off and push! We didn't make many miles today, but we sure had fun!









and tonight we're camped down a dirt road in amongst the crispy, crunchy prickers. This place is a desert! Never seen anything so dry...and even more so after wet Galacia where Santiago is.

Oh, ya...our new plan is to spend 3 weeks pedaling to Lisbon, Portuagal. We have tickets out of the Schengen area on the 89th day so we won't cause any problems. April was just getting too nervous and I didn't like all the negative energy. It's one thing when I'm on my own and decide to bend the rules and see what happens....another when I'm with someone. So we'll spend 6 weeks touring the UK and then I'll see if I can get back into Europe alone later in August cycling through France, Italy, Greece to Turkey and Istanbul as originally planned. Plans are written in sand and always subject to change:)


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Sunset

May 25, 2014
Finisterre, Spain

Here I sit on a rock surrounded by other pilgrims sitting on rocks at the lighthouse at Finisterre waiting for sunset...at 10:03 pm!

Walking out to the ocean over the moors was the most enjoyable trekking. Our room in Finisterre is the best room in the whole village, a darling orange and white penthouse suite with its own balcony overlooking the harbor.

Oh ya!! Life is good. "We are happy girls!" as Victoria would say:).




May 25th...happy Memorial Day USA!

Sleeping in this morning for the first time in nearly 2 months was a joy. No snoring! No fight to keep the windows open! And sleeping in sheets! And drying with a normal fill-size towel! Life's simple pleasures you all take for granted. Even on the AT I had these things more frequently than here:).

Sitting on our rooftop balcony watching the world of the birds, seagulls. There's a man fixing his skylight. It's another world up here. A delightful place to pass the day.





I'm gonna try uploading photos again. If you don't see any in this blog you'll know I didn't have any luck. I may have to figure out new blogging methods if this issue continues. Love to all:))

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Santiago

May 24, 2014
Cee, Spain

Arrived into Santiago de Compostella last Monday (this is Saturday) in the first rain we've really had to deal with. There was a drizzle one day in 6 weeks, I think. First things first. The girls were focused on getting there Compostella: a certificate that says you've hiked the Camino, at least the last 100 kms. I could care less about certificates but it was important to them so I zipped my lip (I know, rare moment) and joined in their excitement. It was a significant accomplishment for Victoria and Marjukka and I'm so proud of them for them for making it!!! Our group had expanded for a few days to include Cara, a young girl from the USA that has been bopping around Europe for about 6 months. Having gotten certified, I was focused on finding a room. A cute one at that. Since the night before we had stayed in a 500 bed albergue, I wanted something a but more intimate:). It was part of a conference center that I calculated would sleep several thousand people: 30 buildings sleeping about 300 in each...you do the math! I had spotted solace on the way in, but the group needed the tourist info recommendation and to stop by another albergue that we didn't like before going to my preference: Azabache Albergue. Cute place with 2 bunks per room, large windows and balcony, kitchen, old and quaint. We all loved it! Around the corner from the Cathedral, near to everything! And we could stay as long as we wanted, something you can't do in a regular albergue.

Pilgrims mass is at noon every day in the cathedral and being with 4 Catholic girls...well, you get the picture. It's quite an occasion with an hour long mass of which I understood not a word but was still moving. And it ended with the swinging of the botafumeiro, a thurible filled with burning incense that weighs a ton and takes 6 men to get it swinging. I posted a great video on Facebook that came from YouTube. I was too far away to video it. Besides a woman in front held up her iPad to do a video and it might as well have been her wide screen TV! Blocked everything behind her! Rumor has it the incense was to temper the odors of the unwashed pilgrims:). The pilgrims today are the cleanest hikers I've ever met!

Santiago didn't feel like an accomplishment. The hiking was easy. Days were short. Food more than plentiful and frequent. Showers daily. Just felt like a journey...one of many for me. I fear that the more I do, the less significant they become. Just another day in the life... And is that good it bad? Living more in each moment, for sure. Some moments I enjoy more than others. Some moments I have to learn how to take care of myself without affecting others.

Some days, like today, are pure joy! April and I hiked past Santiago to the coast heading to Finisterre, where many say the true end of the Camino is. We stayed in Santiago until Marjukka left (Wed morning...Victoria left to hike to Finisterre the day before wanton alone time and having a schedule). And we decided since we had time and could find no other trails out here to hike, that we'd go slow and hike out and back to Santiago over 12 days. This has been the best part of the hike...even 3 days of rain! Through more woods and hillier terrain, with fewer pilgrims. Today was spectacular over the moors for 13 kms (longest distance without a cafe - 8 miles - does that tell you something?). And the sun came out to warm us up! (Yesterday I hiked in rain in sandals and shorts, temps in the low 50's! Brr!)

And we reached the ocean!!! What amazing views! And our room tonight with only 4, has a view!


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Nearing Santiago

May 15, 2014
Portos, Spain

You won't find this place on any map, probably. We're about 75 kms from Santiago. Last weekend we bussed ahead to Sarria, the town about 100 kms out from Santiago. That's all you really have to hike to get your Compostella, the official stamp. And that's all many, if not most, walk. The crowds are unbelievable! We're booking ahead our rooms to be sure we have a place. We're also reserving at in-between smaller places and that's a delight.

Being back in the mountains feels fabulous! I'm hiking strong and feeling great. Have met too many people. It gets exhausting. And skipping changes your Camino family so that's a downer. But our little tribe of the Four Crazy ... Happy Ladies is moving on down the trail.

Tonight we're in newish bunkroom of only 8 woman!! What a treat this is. Maybe no snorers. Maybe. And we have a lovely, grassy, shady yard. Ever so pleasant. Unlike the bunkrooms of 20-40 beds in the larger towns. And there's a restaurant up the country road with a yummy menu...soup and salad for dinner tonight!!!

Lots of letting go and more acceptance of what is. That is the way of the Camino.

Buen Camino,

BagLady

Foncebadon - A New Day

May 10, 2014

If I've learned anything on these long trails it's "don't make a final decision on a bad day!" Today is the best day yet. We're hiking into the mountains! Strenuous hiking. Not that flat road stuff. I've also decided that the one thing I can change is my attitude when there's nothing else. So I'm doing that. Whatever will be will be. If it's hot, wet bandannas cool meat night. Need a window open, ask. If someone is rude...be extra nice. They're having a hard time too. Working through my challenges. Looking for the beauty in each day...and there's plenty! Every day, every little village just blows me away with their old old buildings and ruins. Just so quaint!!!!

And today I feel so high I can touch the sky. My feet were flying! I was passing people going uphill:). Love them endorphins!!

Just hiked up to Foncebadon, the highest village on the Camino. We're staying in a hut in the back on mattresses on the floor. We're next to the chicken coop on a hippie farm! So cool! Love this place. The village is mostly the remains of fallen down stone houses. The roofs were wood braces and thatching but that's all gone and the walls are crumbling.

(Ok, got my first request to close the place up tight. The battle begins! What's with these Europeans who bring to the mountains only sleeping sheets and expect that that's enough to stay warm? I don't get it. I've walked through the dorms at night with all the windows closed and 40 bodies sleeping...and it was so warm and humid that it was disgusting. I showed her where the blankets are but she wasn't interested. I can drag my mattress out on the porch tonight I guess. Just noticed that there's a fire going in the fireplace. Oh boy ! )

Deep breath. We'll get through this night too.


Livin' the dream,

BagLady

The Torments Continue

May 8, 2014

Torments. Torments. The struggle continues. Get into the village. The albergue will put us 4 in a private room for 8 adding no one unless she fills up. Yeah! 2 windows! Breeze! Then Eva from Austria shows up and closes the window and says she snores very loud...she hopes we have earplugs. The blissful bubble is broken. Torture it becomes. I hate this trail. Am I the first person to hike the Camino and say that? I wish I had my tent or at least a decent pad to sleep on. I will be sleeping in the yard tonight on chair pads. I think April will join me. We found out from the owner that the doors to the albergue are locked at night. We always knew we couldn't get in after 10 pm, but we didn't realize the doors would not open from the inside either. That really scares me. LOCKED IN!! She said if there's a fire you have to go out the window. It's on the 2nd floor!

I WANT MY TENT!!!!!!!!!!!!

I would love this trip then. I think April and I will have to get double rooms now to avoid this trauma and fighting every night. Aye aye aye!! I'm sorry to always be bitching. Maybe that's why I'm not writing much. Having a hard time finding happy things to write about. Feel utter people exhaustion. Yesterday we took a zero in Leon. In the morning we moved from the albergue to a private place where we got a quad for 10€ each. And we got the room at 10 am. 23 hours of utter bliss!! The only thing was one window does not allow for a breeze so it was hot all night. Wet bandannas I used to cool down. But we slept on real sheets:). Had real towels for the shower. Simple pleasures. I didn't want to get up this morning. Too happy just lying in bed while the others went to breakfast.

Today we started hiking out of Leon. Pavement walking is hard on the legs. So we got the bright idea to get a bus. I know, this is beginning to be a habit:). And when we asked at the cafe where we stopped, we found out the bus stop was across the street. Perfect. Quick ride 7 kms and we're back in the country. Ahhhh! Green spaces again.

It's heating up afternoons now and my hiking umbrella is a godsend! Instant shade!

Dinner at these albergues is the pilgrim meal. Not served until 7:30. So late. Too filling. I'm going to try not eating them for awhile and see if I feel better. Eating way too much. Tonight I'll have bread, cheese, tomato, red pepper, and oil for dinner. And tomorrow my pack will be lighter!

So now that I've vented I feel better. Can't wait to see what torments tomorrow's travels bring.


Livin' the dream????

BagLady

Leon and Miracles

May 7, 2014
Leon, Spain

April, Victoria, and I trained up to Leon yesterday. It all happened so quickly when we got to Sahagun and stopped to see the train schedule...the train arrived right then...we hopped on and Marjukka said she wasn't coming. Whoa! When the train pulled out it felt so weird to be without her. And 45 minutes later we were in a big city! What a time warp. And feeling off balance with one of the Four Crazy Ladies not there. But we understood Marjukka needed to hike her own hike and we admired her strength to do what she needed.

We jumped ahead because of Victoria's schedule. And I didn't care if I saw more of the plains. The train was a fun change:).

Victoria was hobbling due to shin splints which made searching for a nice place a challenge because she wasn't up to walking much. Add to that the poor and inaccurate info from the touristico and we struggled until we found a convent albergue for 5 €. The best part was the separate floors for men and women:). Kept the snorers away.

In the morning, I suggested we go see the other albergue since we had to pack up anyways. (This is a train and peregrinos are allowed to only stay one night. We have to be out by 8 am. If you're injured you need to find a private place to stay.). Well, this albergue is actually residential housing for the university and very nice! We decided on a quad for 40 € even though there was only 3 of us. Private room with a bath! Luxury!! After dropping our packs we went looking for coffee. Now kind you, it's only 8:30 am and nothing is open...seriously! This is Spain! We did find a cafe next to the cathedral and went in for coffee and munchies. Sitting in the front corner together, April shouts "There's Marjukka!" Stop kidding around, April. But we turn and look out the window, and she's walking through the plaza in front of the cathedral. Like a mirage! OMG! We screamed and ran out to hug her. How crazy is that? This huge city and she gets off the train, walks to the cathedral, and we spot her. As simple as that! Trail magic! Miracles! Marjukka is hiking to learn to trust and look what her trust brought to her!

It gives me goose bumps.


Livin' the dream,

BagLady

Borgus - Life of the Peregrino

May 1, 2014
Hornillos del Camino,

For those who don't know anything about the Camino de Santiago, let me fill you in a bit. The trail I'm hiking is the most popular: Camino Frances that starts on the French side in the Pyrenees foothills. It's 790 kms long to Santiago de Compostella near the west coast. This trail has been hiked by pilgrims for over 1000 years. And it's an honored tradition in Spain to hike it. For me it's a history lesson and a European cultural experience. To walk through villages from the medieval times is amazing. I feel sometimes like I just want to rub my body up against the stones like a dog rolls in a stinky smell...just to soak it up. I can feel the labor of the men who worked so hard to build these structures that can last hundreds of years.

"Buen Camino" is the greeting of the trail. It's hello, goodbye, and just an acknowledgement when passing by by pilgrims and locals alike. At first I thought it would drive me crazy. Now it's a way if greeting because you never know what nationality anyone is. (Side story...this happened to Val who has studied Spanish 101 for 5 years, she says. She went into a touristo office to get information and trying to use and practice her Spanish she asked a question in Spanish. We guess it wasn't very good Spanish because the woman laughed and said with a laugh, " I don't even know what language to answer you in:)!")

So Buen Camino and buenos dias are my 2 most frequently used Spanish words. I'm learning others slowly. I can understand much kore than I can speak. I'm really tickled when I understand the price when spoken to me! The merchants are patient but rarely bi-lingual. It's actually funny how well understood we are if they try. And they do to get our money.

Our days begin early. Often there's someone rousing before 6 am. Ouch! Rustling, talking, lights on. I feel the hurry to get to the next sleeping village. Beds are limited. This weekend we're especially feeling the abundance of pilgrims as albergues are filling up early in the afternoon. After rousing, and packing, I try to find a cafe for "cafe con leche" (coffee with milk much like a latte). Then we hike. Our group started as April and me and Val and Phil (all friends from the Appalachian Trail). And Phil, our speedy hiker, would rush ahead and secure us beds by noons. It was great. Then in Pamplona our group added a couple of woman: Victoria from Montreal and Marjukke from Finland. Now Val and Phil are coping with injuries and have slowed down, so the other women and April and I are traveling together. The woman are younger but have not hiked a long trail before. We are having great laughs, but do miss Val and Phil...having to say goodbye this morning because we are ahead. Hopefully we'll see them again but they're going to bus ahead.

So we hike. And rush to town to get a bed. It's like a competition. We cannot dawdle or we'll be sleeping on the streets, no pads no tents.

May 2, 2014
Castrojeriz, Spain

Okay, time for a torment! I spent about an hour sitting quietly on some stone steps that led up to an elevated field writing my journal, writing about the life of a pilgrim...and before I could save it my phone went black and died! Really? In this day and age autosave isn't automatically part of a blogging app? Really? BlogPress, is that too much to ask????

Not sure I have it in me to write all that again. I'm struggling getting motivated to write at all. Not sure why. Does it have anything to do with why I'm hiking the Camino? I'm learning this hike is quite significant for many of the pilgrims. Hard for a hiker to understand that it's not about the hike. And the struggle. Struggle with packs too heavy. Struggle with bodies unfit. Struggle with problems back home. Hike for reasons they feel are too personal to share with a stranger. So what's my struggle? What am I here to learn? Patience is certainly one. With so many pilgrims, I can't always have what I want...when I want. Let go. Flow more. Stop resisting. I struggle with the lights going on at 6 am as pilgrims take off to trudge to the next village where they will sleep. I struggle as my feet hurt from km after km of walking on hard packed trails and paved roads. This isn't a trail through the woods, it's hiking ancient roads that have been hiked for over a 1000 years by all the pilgrims who've gone before. It's straight uphill and straight down, with no switchbacks. It's in the broiling sun with no shade. It's through ancient village after ancient village. With small cafés open for cafe con leche (a latte) and bocadillos (snacks) where we hikers gather in the sun and catch up.

Since we're only doing about 20 kms (12 miles) a day, we're in town between 1-2 in the afternoon. And sometimes we get the last beds in the albergue. Last night there were no beds left in the village. I don't know what people did. It was 20 kms to the next available bed. Taxi I guess. There are a lot of services like taxis and pack shuttles along this trail. Some have booked every room and their packs are shuttled forward daily while they hike with only a day pack. Some days that option looks darn inviting:)

Food is another struggle for me. Bread for breakfast. Bread for lunch. Then bread with dinner. Yup that about sums up the Spanish food. I'm so tired of bread and it's tired of me. Yes they have a few other options, but I tried yesterday to eat NO bread the whole day. I almost made it:). I slipped at dinner and had a slice with my salad. A Spanish breakfast appears to be coffee and bread, butter, and jam. Lunch is a loaf of bread with cured ham and cheese or a Spanish tortilla which is egg, potatoes, ham and cheese. For dinner, many places have a pilgrim meal for a fixed price of about 10 € ($14) that consists of a first course of soup or salad or spaghetti. Then a second course of pork or chicken or fish with potatoes. Finally dessert of flan or ice cream. And water and wine throughout. It's a fairly good deal but repetitive (and expensive) if eaten every night. This trail is not for poor pilgrims...at least not from the US with a lousy exchange rate. A small cup of coffee is over $2. A Big Mac ( the universal compare standard) was $6. It's not financially a good time to be traveling the world:/

And one last thing about pilgrims...they are a clean, well-perfumed, fashionable lot. They shower daily. Use perfume like crazy. And scarves are very in for men and women....as well as the latest colorful styles. No scrubby bunch, these hikers. Having a bitoif trouble fitting in. That much showering dries my skin. My clothes are laundered about once a week whether they need it or not. And I try to shower every other day.

Oh ya, all the languages! Sometimes my brain goes into it's foreign language storage area and comes up with the strangest things. My Spanish is slowly getting better, at least in reading comprehension. I'm using some French with Victoria. And sometimes it seems my brain wants to pull up the German I learned 40 years ago. So many languages are spoken along this trail. Quite fabulous!

And if you want to see more pictures friend me on Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman.

Livin' the dream,

BagLady