Livin' the life,
BagLady
Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman
Wednesday, September 24, 2014
Pictures
I've learned that portrait photos are causing the upload problem. I have to resize them. Let's see if I can upload some.
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman
Life's Getting Crazy
September 24, 2014
Lapalisse, France
This has been one crazy week and it's wearing me out. Maybe I'm too old to be touring alone. It's terribly stressful at times. But, as always, the kindness of strangers pulls me through.
Now let's see if I can remember all that's happened. You know about the tire then the broken frame.
Sunday came and I wasn't ready with food shopping so I scraped the bottom of the pannier. The next day around midday I got to a village and parked in front of a small grocery store. I needed to write my bike shop because Blaze is running like a crab. Her boom is tilted. When I looked up, it was CLOSED! For 2.5 hours! I felt at the breaking point and just wanted to cry. This life is not as easy as it sounds. There's so many unknowns every day. I cycled through town and found a patisserie and got a bread and a flan. Then I looked and my solar panel was missing! Oh no! It must have dropped off when I left the grocery store. I'm lost without it. LOST! POWERLESS! I race back looking along the pavement. It's not there. Oh no! This can't be happening. Check everywhere! ...there it is, tucked away...ahhhh. You should try living with me!! This brain is frightening and so forgetful these days. That doesn't help.
So on I go. Down the sweetest back country roads. Learning more about letting go. I don't itch that bad. I have a second warmer bag to use. I have enough food for the night. PB & J is always there. I'm okay. And I'm in France! And it's a beautiful day. Getting near camping time. Time to find some water. I look for people outside. Or listen. Look. There's a couple. Of course, they're staring at me:). J'ai besoin de l'eau. My standard phrase. It's a farm family. Mom, dad, and daughter. Yes. Of course. Then I ask if perhaps they have a place I could camp. And I end up in the garden:). Wonderful people. Got to watch mom milk 35 head of cows. I'll never take dairy for granted again. It took 1.5 hours to put them in their stantion ( 8 at a time), scrub teats, apply milking machine, treat teats after, and release them...then sterilize equipment while next 8 ladies load. Quite an operation and it's done twice a day, EVERY day. Whew!
They had gardens and chickens, turkeys, geese, a pig and "les enfants" (calves). All ages. They're separated from mom right away. A couple were a week old. It's a business...but Edith knew the name of every cow! Invited in for dinner too, so that solved my food problem. Amazing family. Such fun! And I'm so grateful. See you on Facebook, Monica!
Last night it was getting quite late and I wasn't finding a spot. I heard a woman trying to quiet her dog do I turned around and went back. I'd seen a grassy spot a couple of houses away and was hoping she'd know if I could use it. She and her husband offered they're yard. Yea! And in the morning coffee and conversation....and red peach jam and apples for the road. Thank you Chantelle and Christian.
Tonight a campground, wifi, power, and a shower. Living it up!! Both families offered a room indoors but I do prefer my tent!
Oh and another challenge is finding my way. I like Google Maps to give me a route. Much easier. But it doesn't know that I want paved roads so it gives me this
Or this
Or worse yet, this
I ended up carrying her across the deep water and squishy sand. Then 3 trips to get all my gear across! And those back roads are so much slower, but sure beat 20 kms on a road with no shoulder and big trucks going both ways like I did today. Glad to be here. Now I'm going to enjoy it. Shower!!
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman
Lapalisse, France
This has been one crazy week and it's wearing me out. Maybe I'm too old to be touring alone. It's terribly stressful at times. But, as always, the kindness of strangers pulls me through.
Now let's see if I can remember all that's happened. You know about the tire then the broken frame.
Sunday came and I wasn't ready with food shopping so I scraped the bottom of the pannier. The next day around midday I got to a village and parked in front of a small grocery store. I needed to write my bike shop because Blaze is running like a crab. Her boom is tilted. When I looked up, it was CLOSED! For 2.5 hours! I felt at the breaking point and just wanted to cry. This life is not as easy as it sounds. There's so many unknowns every day. I cycled through town and found a patisserie and got a bread and a flan. Then I looked and my solar panel was missing! Oh no! It must have dropped off when I left the grocery store. I'm lost without it. LOST! POWERLESS! I race back looking along the pavement. It's not there. Oh no! This can't be happening. Check everywhere! ...there it is, tucked away...ahhhh. You should try living with me!! This brain is frightening and so forgetful these days. That doesn't help.
So on I go. Down the sweetest back country roads. Learning more about letting go. I don't itch that bad. I have a second warmer bag to use. I have enough food for the night. PB & J is always there. I'm okay. And I'm in France! And it's a beautiful day. Getting near camping time. Time to find some water. I look for people outside. Or listen. Look. There's a couple. Of course, they're staring at me:). J'ai besoin de l'eau. My standard phrase. It's a farm family. Mom, dad, and daughter. Yes. Of course. Then I ask if perhaps they have a place I could camp. And I end up in the garden:). Wonderful people. Got to watch mom milk 35 head of cows. I'll never take dairy for granted again. It took 1.5 hours to put them in their stantion ( 8 at a time), scrub teats, apply milking machine, treat teats after, and release them...then sterilize equipment while next 8 ladies load. Quite an operation and it's done twice a day, EVERY day. Whew!
They had gardens and chickens, turkeys, geese, a pig and "les enfants" (calves). All ages. They're separated from mom right away. A couple were a week old. It's a business...but Edith knew the name of every cow! Invited in for dinner too, so that solved my food problem. Amazing family. Such fun! And I'm so grateful. See you on Facebook, Monica!
Last night it was getting quite late and I wasn't finding a spot. I heard a woman trying to quiet her dog do I turned around and went back. I'd seen a grassy spot a couple of houses away and was hoping she'd know if I could use it. She and her husband offered they're yard. Yea! And in the morning coffee and conversation....and red peach jam and apples for the road. Thank you Chantelle and Christian.
Tonight a campground, wifi, power, and a shower. Living it up!! Both families offered a room indoors but I do prefer my tent!
Oh and another challenge is finding my way. I like Google Maps to give me a route. Much easier. But it doesn't know that I want paved roads so it gives me this
Or this
Or worse yet, this
I ended up carrying her across the deep water and squishy sand. Then 3 trips to get all my gear across! And those back roads are so much slower, but sure beat 20 kms on a road with no shoulder and big trucks going both ways like I did today. Glad to be here. Now I'm going to enjoy it. Shower!!
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman
My What Broke???
September 19, 2014
Niherne, France
Why am I riding so low? I think my feet are pointing up more. What's happening here? Not good thoughts to have when Google Maps has again taken me down a remote farm road. I like being away from traffic, especially late in the day when I'm looking for a place to camp for the night. But not when I examine my trike to see what's the matter and see a gaping crack in the frame at the point that takes all the stress. Half of the frame has pulled away. SHIT! This is not good. I'm miles from any town. No cars go by here. I'm in a bit of a pickle.
DELETED PHOTO OF BREAK
First, do not get back on that bike. Not until it's fixed. You need it to carry your 60 lbs of stuff. If it breaks completely, you are totally SOL.
Next, find a place to camp for the night. I needed to give myself time to think about what to do.
Then, add reinforcement to the crack to prevent it from opening further. I have lots of Velcro. Wrap it well...that stuff is strong!
Now get some sleep. Like Scarlett, I'll think about this tomorrow:).
But of course I did work it all night. Oh and I emailed my bike shop to ask about repairing it with a weld. He said no, but forwarded my email on to the manufacturer, Inspired Cycle Engineers.
Ok, if I can't weld it, then I need to get to Lyon, 300 kms away, to get to an ICE dealer to get this fixed. Guess I'll need some help with getting there...or getting to a town with public transportation.
When I feel a bit overwhelmed by a situation, like this, I look at just the next step I have to take...and take that. Then figure out the next one. So I knew in the morning I need to push Blaze to a nearby village and get help. First step.
Funny thing this morning, a van went by the tent before I was dressed and I didn't react. Then he went by again, going back, while I was making coffee and again I did nothing. Don't know why I didn't rush out to him. I was focused on walking to town. And I was not packed up. Guess that was why.
So I packed her up and started pushing. Walking a trike is not easy. Steering and brakes are low and up front. Ya gotta push from the rear. It's complicated. Especially on the road on a downhill. How to brake? Used my umbrella with the handle loop around the handle and brake lever. Twist it to tighten the lever and break. Push and pull it to steer. Worked it out.
After about 5 miles we entered a small town and right away I spotted some people outside with trucks and machinery. I am shy. No one believes me. I have to push myself to approach. I wait in the middle of the drive but only one man sees me. He's not responding but you can see he's wondering what's up. Finally I say Bonjour. And walk over. In my very broken French I explain that I have a problem with my bike. The Madame is very gracious and speaks slowly with me. The guys check out the problem. There's much talking that I don't understand. They think it can be repaired OR they can get me to a bus station but they don't think my trike will fit. Worry about that later.
So it's decided that Martin will take me and we'll see if we can get it fixed. Otherwise maybe his wife, who's going to Chateauroux (train town), can take the bike in her small car. It folds! I say. In the next village, after Martin talks to several different men we end up at a job plant where one gets stuff made. They are busy says the receptionist. But the main man looks at it and says "bring it back here" in French. They clear a couple of saw horses and tip Blaze upside down on them. A serious operation!
DELETED PHOTOS OF REPAIR
Twenty minutes later, hotter than heck, she's ready to go. And so are the skies...a storm is approaching. 20€ to the receptionist and we're off to the center of town. I find an overhang for Martin to deposit me, my bike, and my stuff. All before the heavens open. Two cheek kisses thank you, my agreement to write, a quick blurry photo,
and I'm ready to ride!
After all is said and done, I find an email from ICE, the manufacturer that it can't be welded (too late) and they will send a replacement wherever I wish. So I'm headed to Lyon (200 miles) on my "unrepairable" trike where Blaze gets a butt replacement.
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman
Niherne, France
Why am I riding so low? I think my feet are pointing up more. What's happening here? Not good thoughts to have when Google Maps has again taken me down a remote farm road. I like being away from traffic, especially late in the day when I'm looking for a place to camp for the night. But not when I examine my trike to see what's the matter and see a gaping crack in the frame at the point that takes all the stress. Half of the frame has pulled away. SHIT! This is not good. I'm miles from any town. No cars go by here. I'm in a bit of a pickle.
DELETED PHOTO OF BREAK
First, do not get back on that bike. Not until it's fixed. You need it to carry your 60 lbs of stuff. If it breaks completely, you are totally SOL.
Next, find a place to camp for the night. I needed to give myself time to think about what to do.
Then, add reinforcement to the crack to prevent it from opening further. I have lots of Velcro. Wrap it well...that stuff is strong!
Now get some sleep. Like Scarlett, I'll think about this tomorrow:).
But of course I did work it all night. Oh and I emailed my bike shop to ask about repairing it with a weld. He said no, but forwarded my email on to the manufacturer, Inspired Cycle Engineers.
Ok, if I can't weld it, then I need to get to Lyon, 300 kms away, to get to an ICE dealer to get this fixed. Guess I'll need some help with getting there...or getting to a town with public transportation.
When I feel a bit overwhelmed by a situation, like this, I look at just the next step I have to take...and take that. Then figure out the next one. So I knew in the morning I need to push Blaze to a nearby village and get help. First step.
Funny thing this morning, a van went by the tent before I was dressed and I didn't react. Then he went by again, going back, while I was making coffee and again I did nothing. Don't know why I didn't rush out to him. I was focused on walking to town. And I was not packed up. Guess that was why.
So I packed her up and started pushing. Walking a trike is not easy. Steering and brakes are low and up front. Ya gotta push from the rear. It's complicated. Especially on the road on a downhill. How to brake? Used my umbrella with the handle loop around the handle and brake lever. Twist it to tighten the lever and break. Push and pull it to steer. Worked it out.
After about 5 miles we entered a small town and right away I spotted some people outside with trucks and machinery. I am shy. No one believes me. I have to push myself to approach. I wait in the middle of the drive but only one man sees me. He's not responding but you can see he's wondering what's up. Finally I say Bonjour. And walk over. In my very broken French I explain that I have a problem with my bike. The Madame is very gracious and speaks slowly with me. The guys check out the problem. There's much talking that I don't understand. They think it can be repaired OR they can get me to a bus station but they don't think my trike will fit. Worry about that later.
So it's decided that Martin will take me and we'll see if we can get it fixed. Otherwise maybe his wife, who's going to Chateauroux (train town), can take the bike in her small car. It folds! I say. In the next village, after Martin talks to several different men we end up at a job plant where one gets stuff made. They are busy says the receptionist. But the main man looks at it and says "bring it back here" in French. They clear a couple of saw horses and tip Blaze upside down on them. A serious operation!
DELETED PHOTOS OF REPAIR
Twenty minutes later, hotter than heck, she's ready to go. And so are the skies...a storm is approaching. 20€ to the receptionist and we're off to the center of town. I find an overhang for Martin to deposit me, my bike, and my stuff. All before the heavens open. Two cheek kisses thank you, my agreement to write, a quick blurry photo,
and I'm ready to ride!
After all is said and done, I find an email from ICE, the manufacturer that it can't be welded (too late) and they will send a replacement wherever I wish. So I'm headed to Lyon (200 miles) on my "unrepairable" trike where Blaze gets a butt replacement.
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman
Friday, September 19, 2014
The Most Momentous Wild Camping Experience
September 17, 2014
Loches, France
After 5 glorious days at a campground in Tours, resting, enjoying Chuck and Susan's company (Brad and Lesley...their kids), and getting chores done, I departed this morning. Not alone. Susan joined me. Her plan is to ride south with me, spend the night wild camping, then bike back to Tours where Chuck us healing from minor surgery before they continue on.
And one of my chores was getting a decent SIM card so Google Maps would assist me again routing my travels. So today with a route chirping in my ear and Susan on her compactly packed trike behind, we took off. Girls ride! Wahoo. Siri (my google voice) wound us through the most delightful countryside and villages. A slow leisurely day. About 4 pm we found this old woods and garden with an old shed, overgrown bushes and freshly cared for veggie garden...only strawberries left. We picked a spot to put up our tents needing a rock to pound in the stakes because the ground is so hard and dry. All of a sudden we se a car pull in up the dirt road and around the bushes to where are tents and bikes are parked. Pssssss! Blow out tire!! Look at that! A tent stake is protruding. SHIT! We're in deep doodoo now! An confused, elderly couple emerge from the car. In our limited French we are apologizing, trying to explain why we're camped on their property. They are angry and perplexed. First they need to call for a repair. I dial the number with my phone. Need to call the 800 number. They don't answer. He tries so many different numbers and can get nowhere. We're staying close, manning up to our responsibility. Tell them we'll pay for a new tire. Finally he connects with someone and gets the repair truck summoned. Then he shows us the cabin and asks us why we didn't camp in front? Then he wouldn't have hit our stake. We did ask if we could stay the night or did we have to leave after the tire was fixed. We finally understood we can stay but no mess, no paper. Bien sure. Of course. And then we waited. And waited. And waited. By the road. With them. We tried to talk with them as much as we could. They have no children. One son died in a motorcycle accident when he was 23. He showed us where we could pump water for washing up. He showed us the outhouse. Finally about 90 minutes later a guy showed up and changed the tire. (We probably could have done it for them but didn't need anything else to go wrong.) We insisted on paying for the tire. A woman, perhaps their agent, don't know, said insurance would pay for it but finally we got and understanding that we would. He won't know until he gets the garage to put a new tire on it how much it is. We insisted on giving them €100 and we will stay here tomorrow until he gets it repaired and returns here with the exact price. We felt so bad but told them we were delighted to meet them. She kissed me goodbye. Such a sweet couple under stressful conditions. He swore a few times but I think he was madder at the garage than us. Craziest wild camping experience ever!!!
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman
Loches, France
After 5 glorious days at a campground in Tours, resting, enjoying Chuck and Susan's company (Brad and Lesley...their kids), and getting chores done, I departed this morning. Not alone. Susan joined me. Her plan is to ride south with me, spend the night wild camping, then bike back to Tours where Chuck us healing from minor surgery before they continue on.
And one of my chores was getting a decent SIM card so Google Maps would assist me again routing my travels. So today with a route chirping in my ear and Susan on her compactly packed trike behind, we took off. Girls ride! Wahoo. Siri (my google voice) wound us through the most delightful countryside and villages. A slow leisurely day. About 4 pm we found this old woods and garden with an old shed, overgrown bushes and freshly cared for veggie garden...only strawberries left. We picked a spot to put up our tents needing a rock to pound in the stakes because the ground is so hard and dry. All of a sudden we se a car pull in up the dirt road and around the bushes to where are tents and bikes are parked. Pssssss! Blow out tire!! Look at that! A tent stake is protruding. SHIT! We're in deep doodoo now! An confused, elderly couple emerge from the car. In our limited French we are apologizing, trying to explain why we're camped on their property. They are angry and perplexed. First they need to call for a repair. I dial the number with my phone. Need to call the 800 number. They don't answer. He tries so many different numbers and can get nowhere. We're staying close, manning up to our responsibility. Tell them we'll pay for a new tire. Finally he connects with someone and gets the repair truck summoned. Then he shows us the cabin and asks us why we didn't camp in front? Then he wouldn't have hit our stake. We did ask if we could stay the night or did we have to leave after the tire was fixed. We finally understood we can stay but no mess, no paper. Bien sure. Of course. And then we waited. And waited. And waited. By the road. With them. We tried to talk with them as much as we could. They have no children. One son died in a motorcycle accident when he was 23. He showed us where we could pump water for washing up. He showed us the outhouse. Finally about 90 minutes later a guy showed up and changed the tire. (We probably could have done it for them but didn't need anything else to go wrong.) We insisted on paying for the tire. A woman, perhaps their agent, don't know, said insurance would pay for it but finally we got and understanding that we would. He won't know until he gets the garage to put a new tire on it how much it is. We insisted on giving them €100 and we will stay here tomorrow until he gets it repaired and returns here with the exact price. We felt so bad but told them we were delighted to meet them. She kissed me goodbye. Such a sweet couple under stressful conditions. He swore a few times but I think he was madder at the garage than us. Craziest wild camping experience ever!!!
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman
Saturday, September 13, 2014
Enjoying It More
September 10, 2014
Le Guedeniau, France
France is growing on me as we get to know each other better. So many villages, often only 3-5 miles apart..of all sizes. And always clean. No litter. And usually planted with flowers everywhere. And churches with bells that ring when I ride into town! I seem to always be there either on the hour or the half and feel that the bells are announcing my arrival:). But often there don't appear to be any people in the villages or any stores. That seems strange.
I've got the wild camping figured out here to...camp on the village parks. Most every mid size and larger village has one. Mowed grass and picnic tables. Sometimes a river or pond. I've also learned about caravan parking places that have water and sometimes showers, I was told tonight. I need to get more local maps from the Tourist Info places. The one I got today showed these truck symbols down the road I wanted to use today. Darn, I thought...does that mean a truck route? I'm trying to avoid those even if I have to cycle further. No, it's the symbol of a campervan. Where the symbol is is a parking place for campervans and sometimes services. Like where I am tonight. But I've got this lovely park overlooking a pond.
If you look closely left of center you can see my tent. And another thing they do in the villages: turn off the street lights after 10 pm! I love it!! Quiet AND dark!
I have a direction for the immediate future. A Facebook touring friend and his wife who have been traveling through Europe this summer on trikes are in Tours, about 70 miles from me when I found out this morning. He's there healing for a few days from some minor surgery, so I'm heading there to meet them in person:). Such fun to be meeting people you've been internet friends with! Sure helped me pick up the pace today!
September 10, 2014
Luynes, France
Today ended with the most frustration and the best encounter. Frustration was finding a camping place because I went further than I wanted to and ended up in an urban area. Eventually after many false starts and even starting to set up my tent and being told No, I ended up in a town park. And there I met Elise, a 17 yr old girl out walking her dog. She came by my tent, sat down, and shared a bit of her life with me in mostly English. She offered to get anything I might need and also be available by phone tomorrow if I got lost in Tours. So sweet! I hope someday I can maybe help her come visit the USA! Stay in touch with me, Elise!
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman
Le Guedeniau, France
France is growing on me as we get to know each other better. So many villages, often only 3-5 miles apart..of all sizes. And always clean. No litter. And usually planted with flowers everywhere. And churches with bells that ring when I ride into town! I seem to always be there either on the hour or the half and feel that the bells are announcing my arrival:). But often there don't appear to be any people in the villages or any stores. That seems strange.
I've got the wild camping figured out here to...camp on the village parks. Most every mid size and larger village has one. Mowed grass and picnic tables. Sometimes a river or pond. I've also learned about caravan parking places that have water and sometimes showers, I was told tonight. I need to get more local maps from the Tourist Info places. The one I got today showed these truck symbols down the road I wanted to use today. Darn, I thought...does that mean a truck route? I'm trying to avoid those even if I have to cycle further. No, it's the symbol of a campervan. Where the symbol is is a parking place for campervans and sometimes services. Like where I am tonight. But I've got this lovely park overlooking a pond.
If you look closely left of center you can see my tent. And another thing they do in the villages: turn off the street lights after 10 pm! I love it!! Quiet AND dark!
I have a direction for the immediate future. A Facebook touring friend and his wife who have been traveling through Europe this summer on trikes are in Tours, about 70 miles from me when I found out this morning. He's there healing for a few days from some minor surgery, so I'm heading there to meet them in person:). Such fun to be meeting people you've been internet friends with! Sure helped me pick up the pace today!
September 10, 2014
Luynes, France
Today ended with the most frustration and the best encounter. Frustration was finding a camping place because I went further than I wanted to and ended up in an urban area. Eventually after many false starts and even starting to set up my tent and being told No, I ended up in a town park. And there I met Elise, a 17 yr old girl out walking her dog. She came by my tent, sat down, and shared a bit of her life with me in mostly English. She offered to get anything I might need and also be available by phone tomorrow if I got lost in Tours. So sweet! I hope someday I can maybe help her come visit the USA! Stay in touch with me, Elise!
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman
Wednesday, September 10, 2014
Slow Going
September 8, 2014
Montjean, France
I'm struggling with the language. Didn't think knowing some of a language was such a hindrance, but when I try to talk to people, they think I understand more than I do. And I wish I did. It's a lot like being hard of hearing and it's quite frustrating.
A woman stopped me in a village today and she was so excited about my bike but that's about all I got. No, that's not true. She'd had knee replacement about 5 months ago and retired 3 months ago. And I met her daughter and boyfriend who passed. But I'm not used to being at a loss for words, and I was. I find myself avoiding people to avoid the struggle. I'm sure this will improve too.
I'm also frustrated with my mileage. It's just not accumulating. And I'm pedaling hard and long. Guess I'm getting old. I just don't seem to be able to break 30 most days. Why not? Perhaps it's the heat. Tis quite warm and muggy. That must be it.
But I did have a lovely reminder today that it doesn't matter how slowly you go, if you keep trying, you'll get there. I was hanging around the Super U (think mini Walmart) drying tent, charging phone and resting in the shade when I looked up and saw this old, disheveled, handicapped man shuffling mini steps...shuffle, shuffle, stomp the cane...shuffle, shuffle, stomp the cane, and rest... And he had a heavy coat on (in this heat) and where he came from I haven't a clue as this store was in an industrial, commercial area. But as I watched him creep ever so slowly to the store, it reminded me to keep going forward. I admired his determination under such challenging conditions. Who am I to complain?
Another people encounter the other day I want to share was with an elderly woman that I saw sliding down an extremely steep (think vertical) bank on the side of the road. The bank was about 8-10 ft high. I stopped and asked her if I could help. Misunderstanding I got up to give her a hand, envisioning both of us sliding down this bank. When I offered my hand she shook her head and said she's used to doing this. In a dress? Then she admired my bike and asked me if I was hungry as she handed me some nuts. Wish I knew my nuts. They cracked with my teeth and we're quite tasty. Love the rural women of any country. So tough!
Funny how when my day becomes so simple the little things mean a lot. Oh ya, the sun this morning was amazing! I've never seen a sun that orange when rising, only setting. It blew me away! Lately there's been no sun in the morning because the moisture in the air has caused dense cloud cover. It's humid here!
I love the houses here. This must be where the concept of McMansions came from...in days of yore. The old houses are massive and well maintained. The barns are huge too and go one forever. All stone.
In fact, I see little poverty here. The villages are neat and clean, buildings repaired, no litter, new construction both buildings and highways. And flowers everywhere. The gardens are beautiful!
Met the cutest kids last night that wanted to help me find my way. We conversed pretty well.
Love interacting with children wherever I am. So fresh and innocent and curious.
I ran out of food today and desperately needed a grocery store. I can never be sure where I'll find one. I have yet to see a little neighborhood one. I think they've been out out of business by Super U. Sadly so. So I came into my first village this morning and see a town map on a sign. Hmm. The patisserie et boulangerie (bakery and butcher) is around the corner. Go look. Closed...permanently. Cafe nearby. Closed too. Ah, there's a bar/restaurant. At least I can eat something. It's 10:30 am. Do you have anything to eat. Not until noon. I must have looked desperate because she asks me something, which of course I don't understand other than the word "sweet" and I said I don't know, and she leaves. She comes back saying something about potatoes and tomatoes. That's all I understood. I said Yes. It'll be something to eat:). And I got a plate of various cold salads all with mayo dressing, some slices of salami and a slice of melon. Great! When I finish she asks me if I want something sweet. Yes. 12 € ($16) later I have a belly and information of a town that had a grocery store (the Super U:))! That was my first meal in France. I'll have to try again when the kitchen is really open. I don't think restaurants will be cheap here.
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman
Montjean, France
I'm struggling with the language. Didn't think knowing some of a language was such a hindrance, but when I try to talk to people, they think I understand more than I do. And I wish I did. It's a lot like being hard of hearing and it's quite frustrating.
A woman stopped me in a village today and she was so excited about my bike but that's about all I got. No, that's not true. She'd had knee replacement about 5 months ago and retired 3 months ago. And I met her daughter and boyfriend who passed. But I'm not used to being at a loss for words, and I was. I find myself avoiding people to avoid the struggle. I'm sure this will improve too.
I'm also frustrated with my mileage. It's just not accumulating. And I'm pedaling hard and long. Guess I'm getting old. I just don't seem to be able to break 30 most days. Why not? Perhaps it's the heat. Tis quite warm and muggy. That must be it.
But I did have a lovely reminder today that it doesn't matter how slowly you go, if you keep trying, you'll get there. I was hanging around the Super U (think mini Walmart) drying tent, charging phone and resting in the shade when I looked up and saw this old, disheveled, handicapped man shuffling mini steps...shuffle, shuffle, stomp the cane...shuffle, shuffle, stomp the cane, and rest... And he had a heavy coat on (in this heat) and where he came from I haven't a clue as this store was in an industrial, commercial area. But as I watched him creep ever so slowly to the store, it reminded me to keep going forward. I admired his determination under such challenging conditions. Who am I to complain?
Another people encounter the other day I want to share was with an elderly woman that I saw sliding down an extremely steep (think vertical) bank on the side of the road. The bank was about 8-10 ft high. I stopped and asked her if I could help. Misunderstanding I got up to give her a hand, envisioning both of us sliding down this bank. When I offered my hand she shook her head and said she's used to doing this. In a dress? Then she admired my bike and asked me if I was hungry as she handed me some nuts. Wish I knew my nuts. They cracked with my teeth and we're quite tasty. Love the rural women of any country. So tough!
Funny how when my day becomes so simple the little things mean a lot. Oh ya, the sun this morning was amazing! I've never seen a sun that orange when rising, only setting. It blew me away! Lately there's been no sun in the morning because the moisture in the air has caused dense cloud cover. It's humid here!
I love the houses here. This must be where the concept of McMansions came from...in days of yore. The old houses are massive and well maintained. The barns are huge too and go one forever. All stone.
In fact, I see little poverty here. The villages are neat and clean, buildings repaired, no litter, new construction both buildings and highways. And flowers everywhere. The gardens are beautiful!
Met the cutest kids last night that wanted to help me find my way. We conversed pretty well.
Love interacting with children wherever I am. So fresh and innocent and curious.
I ran out of food today and desperately needed a grocery store. I can never be sure where I'll find one. I have yet to see a little neighborhood one. I think they've been out out of business by Super U. Sadly so. So I came into my first village this morning and see a town map on a sign. Hmm. The patisserie et boulangerie (bakery and butcher) is around the corner. Go look. Closed...permanently. Cafe nearby. Closed too. Ah, there's a bar/restaurant. At least I can eat something. It's 10:30 am. Do you have anything to eat. Not until noon. I must have looked desperate because she asks me something, which of course I don't understand other than the word "sweet" and I said I don't know, and she leaves. She comes back saying something about potatoes and tomatoes. That's all I understood. I said Yes. It'll be something to eat:). And I got a plate of various cold salads all with mayo dressing, some slices of salami and a slice of melon. Great! When I finish she asks me if I want something sweet. Yes. 12 € ($16) later I have a belly and information of a town that had a grocery store (the Super U:))! That was my first meal in France. I'll have to try again when the kitchen is really open. I don't think restaurants will be cheap here.
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman
Je Continue
September 4, 2014
Coutances, France
I'd call this day a nero. Nearly a zero (for zero miles pedaled). But I got somethings understood. Got some map photos at the book store (the clerk even helped me), spoke more French (even helped a British woman communicate at the coffee counter), got blogs posted, mail read, and other internet chores done, and got to speak English with 2 British families:). A cute story about the one family on vacation (it was the mom I helped with my suave French) is about the 7 yr old's lost tooth. Catch this: he doesn't want to put the tooth under his pillow while on vacation in France because Euros are useless to him! Better to wait until he gets back home to England and gets pounds Sterling! I love it! How astute is he? Love the minds of kids!!!
Now I'm on a cycle path just outside of town that wound back away from the busy main road and I think this will be my home for the night. Stopping at 4 o'clock seemed a bit early but a rest day feels good. And I know a farmer won't be stopping by here tonight:)
September 6, 2014
South of Ducey, France
I did move on a bit that night to an even better meadow just around the bend so that I could enjoy the evening sun and I did!
And the next day I kept my needle pointed to Avranches but bless me, I turned towards the coast late in the day and decided to pay for a campground. Read: shower, laundry, wifi, and even maybe company. I got it all! Although the wifi was nothing to write home about...but they did have a nice pool, so add a swim to the list.
And then wasn't I blessed this morning with a slow, leisurely (aren't all my rides this way?) ride along the Bay of Mont St Michael with views of it all along the way.
It's that point in the middle. I believe it was an abbey a long time ago. I visited it when I was 18 but have little memory of it. I just know it's really built up now and too many people is not my thing. I did happen upon a delightful museum about life in the bay: geology, plants and fish, fishing on foot and harvesting sea salt. The English on the signs outside led me to believe there would be English subtitles inside. I was led astray:(. But I did find I understood enough.
I have a bit of good news about my phone. There's some sort of cell signal with this useless SIM card and it gives me my location on Google maps! Wahoo! I'm not lost!! Today I went to McDonalds to use wifi...yuck...but when I asked Google to give me a bicycle route through the city to help me get across, it came back with No Routes! Oh no! That's why I asked it, because I couldn't see one. But I figured out a way around it, never getting into traffic. And I was gifted at the end of the day by the guy at the patisserie where I stopped to buy bread with free bread and these couchettes (don't hold me to the name, but their mini popovers coated in sugar glaze...and yummy...to make me strong, he said:)). He kept asking me about my journey and I stumbled along trying to explain. I love it when they don't give up on me and keep talking! It makes for conversation. And I'm hungry to talk, as you can well imagine.
Then along the cycle path out of town, I met Regina on her recumbent. She and her husband have ICE trikes too. She's on her annual week long solo bike tour. She spoke English, but I found it hard to leave my French.
Tonight I'm in a No Camping woods, but on the edge with the "pique-nique" tables. I don't think anyone will bother me. Mosquitoes are back. Yuck! Started last night. Just enough to annoy me and drive me I to my tent early.
"Be careful what you wish for." Remember when I was cold, wet, and wind-blown? Not any more. Hot and dry and still. Hmmm.
I'm struggling with a direction to head. That's why I love following coast lines. So simple. Do I want to cross the Alps? Head to the coast? Go down the middle? Where to go? What to do? When to fly to Australia? From where? These are decisions I always struggle with. Too many options. Any input?
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman
Coutances, France
I'd call this day a nero. Nearly a zero (for zero miles pedaled). But I got somethings understood. Got some map photos at the book store (the clerk even helped me), spoke more French (even helped a British woman communicate at the coffee counter), got blogs posted, mail read, and other internet chores done, and got to speak English with 2 British families:). A cute story about the one family on vacation (it was the mom I helped with my suave French) is about the 7 yr old's lost tooth. Catch this: he doesn't want to put the tooth under his pillow while on vacation in France because Euros are useless to him! Better to wait until he gets back home to England and gets pounds Sterling! I love it! How astute is he? Love the minds of kids!!!
Now I'm on a cycle path just outside of town that wound back away from the busy main road and I think this will be my home for the night. Stopping at 4 o'clock seemed a bit early but a rest day feels good. And I know a farmer won't be stopping by here tonight:)
September 6, 2014
South of Ducey, France
I did move on a bit that night to an even better meadow just around the bend so that I could enjoy the evening sun and I did!
And the next day I kept my needle pointed to Avranches but bless me, I turned towards the coast late in the day and decided to pay for a campground. Read: shower, laundry, wifi, and even maybe company. I got it all! Although the wifi was nothing to write home about...but they did have a nice pool, so add a swim to the list.
And then wasn't I blessed this morning with a slow, leisurely (aren't all my rides this way?) ride along the Bay of Mont St Michael with views of it all along the way.
It's that point in the middle. I believe it was an abbey a long time ago. I visited it when I was 18 but have little memory of it. I just know it's really built up now and too many people is not my thing. I did happen upon a delightful museum about life in the bay: geology, plants and fish, fishing on foot and harvesting sea salt. The English on the signs outside led me to believe there would be English subtitles inside. I was led astray:(. But I did find I understood enough.
I have a bit of good news about my phone. There's some sort of cell signal with this useless SIM card and it gives me my location on Google maps! Wahoo! I'm not lost!! Today I went to McDonalds to use wifi...yuck...but when I asked Google to give me a bicycle route through the city to help me get across, it came back with No Routes! Oh no! That's why I asked it, because I couldn't see one. But I figured out a way around it, never getting into traffic. And I was gifted at the end of the day by the guy at the patisserie where I stopped to buy bread with free bread and these couchettes (don't hold me to the name, but their mini popovers coated in sugar glaze...and yummy...to make me strong, he said:)). He kept asking me about my journey and I stumbled along trying to explain. I love it when they don't give up on me and keep talking! It makes for conversation. And I'm hungry to talk, as you can well imagine.
Then along the cycle path out of town, I met Regina on her recumbent. She and her husband have ICE trikes too. She's on her annual week long solo bike tour. She spoke English, but I found it hard to leave my French.
Tonight I'm in a No Camping woods, but on the edge with the "pique-nique" tables. I don't think anyone will bother me. Mosquitoes are back. Yuck! Started last night. Just enough to annoy me and drive me I to my tent early.
"Be careful what you wish for." Remember when I was cold, wet, and wind-blown? Not any more. Hot and dry and still. Hmmm.
I'm struggling with a direction to head. That's why I love following coast lines. So simple. Do I want to cross the Alps? Head to the coast? Go down the middle? Where to go? What to do? When to fly to Australia? From where? These are decisions I always struggle with. Too many options. Any input?
Livin' the life,
BagLady
Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman
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