The Kepler Track

January 15, 2015
Te Anau, South Island, NZ

When I last left you we were headed north out of Invercargill. We camped the first night in a farmer's meadow. Never saw the farmer. Then heading north, the next night I spotted a river and a bridge on a side road and headed over to check it out. Wasn't looking too promising. No flat, grassy spot for tents. Coming back over this rattly wooden bridge, there were 2 trucks waiting there turn parked side by side. So I hopped off Blaze and walked up between them. "Any place to wild camp around here?"

"Your lucky day", one guy responded. "Follow that track."

And we did. So did he, ahead of us. And finally, way down, it curved to the river. Crunchy grass but it would do. And like most of our encounters, "Wouldn't you rather sleep up at the house in a proper bed?" No, we love our tents.



Jake taking a dip to cool off!



Me taking a dip to cool off:))!!!



I think I look good in this official something hat...don't you?

But he did come back later with a bottle of wine and a chair to join us after dinner. "Would you like to borrow my ute to tour around tomorrow?" Really? What we really want to do is go to Te Anau and walk the Kepler Track. "Ok", says Peter. Really?? "Actually, let me see if I can get my Ford Falcon back to loan ya". And he makes a call.

"Let's go get it tonight", he says. "But you girls will have to drive because I've had my license revoked." Hmmm. Ok. (Probably drunken driving because he was knocking off the beers.)

So that's how we got a car to drive the 60 kms out to Te Anau to hike the Kepler. Sweet!!

Peter also offered to cook us breakfast and showed up bright and early to haul our bikes and gear up to his house where it all would be stored. Every time one of us was alone with him, he was hitting on us. A high energy guy. Oh and he carried guns in his truck: a pistol and a rifle. April says she checked the chamber of the pistol and it had no bullets but he sure liked to twirl it around.

By the time we finally hit the road, April was at her wits end from his energy. She broke into tears, poor girl. A nice man. A lonely man. Going through a tough time right now.

Now we were on the road, April driving...on the LEFT. STAY LEFT!!! That was my job. Watch her at all her turns. She did great! I find riding in a car too fast. It makes me nauseous. My eyes can register what it's seeing. Too long on a bike.

A ways down the road, April turns to me and says, "What's Peter's last name?" Damned if I know! And we cracked up. Here we were driving down the road in this guy's car and we didn't know his last name or address. How crazy is that????

This track, one of the Great Walks of NX, is 60 kms (36 miles). There are only 2 bookable campsites on it. But a couple we met on Stewart Island told us about another site that didn't require booking. They also suggested walking it clockwise. So that's what we did. We parked at Rainbow Reach because the DoC (Dept of Conservation) folks said they'd had no burglaries at the parking lots. It was only 5 kms into Shallow Bay to our campsite on the lake. Beautiful. It rained that night and morning. Well, actually all that next day. But the rain was so light and spaced that it felt like we dried between raindrops. This was a bush walk all day. The NZ bush is full of ponga ferns and the trail was like a walk in the park. My only issue was my new Chaco sandals that April had brought for me were rubbing and causing blisters, something I've never experienced with them before. And because my feet were wet, I couldn't put duct tape on the hot spots. I was a hurting dudette. I finally switched to my flip flops. But walked barefoot when I could. Ouch. My flip flops rubbed a sore between my toes. I think the rain making for wet feet was the culprit. But I had 2 more days to hike. Hmmm?












We arrived at Iris Burn Campsite drenched to the bones. The rain had gotten harder before we could make it in. Lovely shelter there with space for cooking and picnic tables under cover and places to hang things to...dry? April came up with the smart idea of erecting our tent under the shelter and carrying it to the site so the inside stayed dry. She started a fad and everyone arriving later did the same thing. We had a great group there that night: Kathryn & Michael from Australia, "Drip Dry" ( I gave him a hiker name when he arrived soaked and drenched with rain) from Ireland, and Roy and Ben from Israel.

The next day was going to be a long one for all of us. 23 kms up and over Mt. Jackson to Brod Bay Campsite for Kathryn & Michael and April & me. The Israeli boys were going further to the car park. "Drip Dry" decided to go back up to the ridge line to see the view before going in the whole other direction and out to the car park we came in from 2 days ago. Oh, to be young!

The views were spectacular! Breathtaking! Beyond words!















That 3rd day was long...long downhill at the end. Oh so hard on the knees. My knees and feet were killing me...just all achy. But the Israeli boys caught up with us after their long lunch break at the hut and they hiked with us to the campground, providing great distraction of how our bodies were feeling:)

We stayed the night at this campground on the shores of Te Anau Lake and hiked out to the closer parking lot in the morning. Our plan was to hitch to the further parking lot (10 kms) and our car. But we didn't think about the fact that in the morning people are arriving not departing. Ok. Dutch that plan. Let's have lunch and then hike to our car. No sooner do we make our sandwiches than I see a woman coming out if the park. Any chance you could give us a lift to Rainbow Reach parking lot? Sure. I was heading there myself! Is that trail magic or what? You have to give up and what you're looking for comes to you!

We were apprehensive about getting back to Peter's and whether we should stay the night as he expected or just pack up and bike away. How was he going to be? We decided we would confront the issue head on and talk about it. But when we arrived, Trish, an ex girlfriend was there and provided a delightful buffer. We thoroughly enjoyed her company and hospitality and Peter was busy elsewhere on the farm most of the time, although hospitably concerned that we had everything we needed. A pleasant contrast to before. So we stayed the night and cycled out showered, laundryed, and restocked to continue north.


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Tramping Stewart Island

January 10, 2014
Bluff, NZ

The following morning we packed up our backpacks and headed down to the ferry. The sea looked calm so I decided to try no drugs.


Big mistake! What was I thinking? I made it halfway before I needed the first barf bag. I was standing on the rail with a cold wind in my face and sea spray soaking my clothes and my mouth in a barf bag for the last half hour. The swells were big and that boat rocked and rolled. I felt awful. When we finally arrived in Oban I was drenched from my hair to my toes. My whole body was rebelling. My head throbbed. I felt like shit. Get me to the hostel, the tent up, and let me sleep. Poor April was left to entertain herself because I was out of commission. (No after photos.)

When I awoke a couple of hours later I felt better so we trudged around the small village. They had a little theater showing a film about Stewart Island. Let's go, says I. Another mistake. A movie about Stewart Island has water in it...and boats! I was sick all over again. To bed. That's the only thing that helps.
By morning I was a new woman and ready to hike.

This island is special for it's bird life, especially kiwis, the native bird to New Zealand. I've cycled a lot if this country, but this was my first tramp through the bush. OMG the ferns could swallow me whole they're so big. It really was like tramping through a movie set of Jurassic Park!






Our plan was to take two nights, three days to do the 33 km Rakiura Track, one of the Great Walks of NZ. We booked into the campsites which were near the huts with water collected from a cooking shelter roof into a tank, the cooking shelter and toilets. Our first site was on a beach and April dropped onto the beach to walk in. She was attacked by birds. Oyster Catchers. This couple had chicks and I saw them scurrying down the beach with the babies...not knowing they were fleeing April. Whew! She put her poles up to protect her head. They were a black bird with bright red beaks. A while later I strolled up the beach forgetting about the birds but in the direction away from their nests we'd been told and I look up to see this bright red beak coming straight at me like a dive bomber. I turned and ran! Now this bird is only the size of a small seagull. But he's serious!!

Then during the night when I was getting up to pee I notice a headlight by the shelter scanning all around. Then I see her mate go out of their tent and they have bright lights shining and flashes going off. They'd gotten their adult son up too. And I watched them scatter this way and that, like the keystone cops. So funny. I figured they'd spotted a kiwi but I felt protective of the bird and didn't want to get up and add to their trauma so I stayed in my tent. April slept through it all. Did I miss seeing a kiwi. Yes. Three of them. But I don't regret it. I feel we humans are so bent on saying we did something ("I saw a kiwi!") that we don't respect them. But I could have seen a kiwi:). And that will have to be enough. I watched Kiwis watching kiwis, I tell everyone!

The rest of the hike was pretty flat, uneventful, but with amazing scenery. We met 4 guys from Italy and a couple from Canada that had see us on the road biking. Several folks actually said they'd seen us.

This hike psyched us up for doing another Great Walk around Te Anau in Fiordland if we could figure out how to make that happen. It felt great to have backpacks on and be tramping. Hmm. Well have to research this.

So back to Bev and Bruce's to meet up with Adele and Andrew who arranged our bike accommodations in Bluff, and dinner, and a great sleep in the garden before heading north.

With access to a computer I researched the option of catching a bus to Te Anau. It was too far out of our way to bike. I remembered buses were difficult with my one trike before when I was here. I was very concerned about two. And they got even stricter. Maybe if we took 2 different buses? Only one a day? That won't work. Screw it. The Kepler Track isn't going to happen, April. I can't figure out how to get there.








This is Burt Monro's bike with which he set the land speed record in the Bonneville Salt Flats in 1967. Google this guy. Most interesting. And watch a great movie about him: "The World's Fastest Indian". Oh, by the way, this motorcycle and many other relics and old cars were in a great hardware store in Invercargill! Greet place to visit!


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Getting to Bluff

January 7, 2015
Bluff, South Island, NZ

There, I've gone and done it again...gotten behind on my blog. The worst part is I can't remember where I left off. Guess I'll have to save out of here and go look that up. Wait here. I'll be right back...

Ok, I'm back. Good, just New Year's Eve. I think I can bring you up to date. We spent a windy New Years Eve in Fortrose camped near the beach at a freedom camping site provided. How sweet! It was so windy that April and I stayed in our tents and ate whatever we had in our bags. I have the tuna. Do you have the mayo? Who has the tomato? I think I'm just eating chips for dinner. We texted between the tents because we couldn't hear each other. Them we sent each other funny pics.










I'm so sure those pics won't upload so we'll see if you get them it not. Funny, fun evening. But early to bed. Another New Year's Eve I've slept through!

The next day we were nearing Invercargill and thinking we'd have to use a campground because we couldn't find any nooks or crannies for our tents. We needed water so we stopped at a farm to get some. And it turned out to have a nice big yard. Can we camp here too for the night? Sure. We ended up staying 2 nights, being fed the whole time, laundry, showers..so wonderful! Brooke and Stu and daughters Grace and Emily. The youngest only 6 weeks old and the big sister just 2. They have a beautiful dairy farm and have sold it and bought a larger one.









Yup, we were camped outside the dining room window!

Once we figured out plans for tramping on Stuart Island we managed to tear ourselves away and move on down the road...to Bluff and the tip of the South Island. And only when I got to the southern most marker did it hit me that I'd cycled the full length of New Zealand (and more). Pretty exciting!




While cycling through the Catlins, we met a couple on holiday that mentioned they lived in Bluff. And needing a place to store our bikes, I kept their contact info. They offered to help but we're arriving later than us son they hooked is up with Bev and Bruce, this wonderful retired couple that moved here 6 years ago and remodeled an Art Deco house. What a treat meeting them has been and we've been spoiled again: meals, showers, laundry, and camping in the garden!



Thanks Bev and Bruce !!
Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Pic in Paper

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

"I saw you in the paper!"

December 28, 2014
Owaka, NZ

"I saw you in the paper!" she said grinning and waving from the sidewalk. The article the photographer and reporter from the Otago paper must have been published. "I just read about you this morning!" she said as another woman cornered April in a grocery store. So the clerk got a copy of the morning paper and we flipped through it...twice. "I know I saw it this morning." Do you have yesterday's paper we asked. Yup. So we flipped through and on the 2nd to last page, there we were!

(I deleted the picture because it wouldn't upload, but I'll try and send it separately.)


Also, the other day when we pulled into a picnic area, a little boy about 10 years old was smiling about our bikes. Then he asked, "were you on Road Cops?" Yes! So that's the name of the show! I wondered if someone was going to tell me they saw me on it...and you just made my day:)

And as we were biking yesterday so many cars beeped and waved, flashed their lights and gave thumbs up! We're thinking it's because they saw the article. We get a lot of attention, but it was more than usual. Today a guy came over to our picnic table at lunch in twin and said he saw the article and had seen us twice over the last 2 days. Just wanted to say hi and tell us he admired what we were doing.

And yesterday a car going the opposite direction pulled over to tell us we were making good time. He'd met us our first day out in Christchurch when we were climbing Evans Pass, the road that dead ended at the top.

So fame has been keeping us busy and April's been thoroughly enjoying it. She says I'm used to it, but it's a first for her:). I don't know about that.

We're heading into a pretty remote area of the South Island taking the more hilly and remote scenic route. With 130 kilometers to bike and no towns, we've stocked up on food. Our bike's are bulging with extra bags hanging off the sides. Don't want to run out! (Always a worry of mine.)

The weather has finally warmed up this last week and summer has arrived. Blistered lips have tormented us right from the start. We get them healed and they blister again. Quite painful. Using lip balm with SPF but maybe too late. The sun is so hot that it sears my thighs and yet the air may be cold. It's so strange. Due to dryness. No moisture in the air to heat up. And today we had headwinds. I was biking along with bare arms and a buff on my head. Go figure!

So the plan is to cycle this scenic route across the south end over to Bluff and store our bikes there while we backpack Stewart Island. So today we met a family on holiday who live in Bluff. So you can guess what I asked them. Yup. Can you store our bikes and stuff while we tour Stewart Island? Of course. But they won't be home for a week and we may be ahead of them. But I've got contact info...maybe a neighbor can help us. It's all about contacts!

Been a bit challenging finding camp spots. The farmers fence off every scrap of land. Last night we camped in a mowed section at an intersection maybe 50 ft back from the road. People honked and waved:).


Tonight we're halfway up a windy road on a grassy knoll that leads to an old, unused gate. Beautiful views in every direction.








Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Christmas Day 2014

December 25, 2014
Dunedin, NZ







Camped by the ocean, on an overlooking cliff, on a roadside pulloff...that's where we spent a day off celebrating Christmas. A jogger stopped by. A local on a quad bike from up the hill come over. A family of locals came to the beach for a respite before the chaos of Christmas started. What a restfully delightful day it has been. We just wish we'd thought more about Xmas food when we stopped at the store yesterday. We've put a wish out to the Universe for some Christmas cookies:)

I must say we had 4 wonderful days with Jamie and Aileen Sinclair of Dunedin just past.


April had met this couple in a campground in the US 7 years ago and stayed in touch. When we said we were coming through Dunedin, they invited us to come visit. So we did! We got a tour of the city, rides to do errands, loan of a sewing machine so I could replace the broken zipper in my favorite pants. I resiliconed my tent floor and redid my hair. Even managed to watch a couple of movies and sleep in. But the wonderful NZ dinners and rich conversation were the highlights. And thank you doesn't cover it.

The steepest street in the world is in Dunedin: Baldwin Street. We walked it because we didn't have our bikes. It's 35%! Would loved to have tried biking it! Would have been a grind!!


But that's not the only amazing kiwi hospitality we've had. Coming to the town of Oamaru a week ago, we were hosted by Warmshowers host, Chris Jones for a couple of nights. Since we were arriving before he got home, he left us the key so we could settle in. How thoughtful. And dinner provided later. Yippee. Which we reciprocated the next night. Having a day off us such a treat. And when it's in a delightful home-y space, better yet. Thank you Chris! (How we forgot to get his pic, I'll never know. Slipping. )

We've also been stopped by reporters and photographers for 2 newspapers now here. Happened again yesterday. And both times I've failed to capture pictures. I'm really falling down on the job. No pictures and few posts. Less is more, right? So imagine a photographer lying down in the middle of the road as we bike towards him, side by side. Hopefully I'll be able to share the link whenever the articles post.

Tomorrow we head south into the Catlins and on towards Bluff. We're headed to Stewart Island for some backpacking over the New Years and then back up the island, eventually ending up in Wellington to see my friends Moa and Kiwi and their families.



Di, a local we met.



Wildfire bucked off April. All's well.




The star on the top of our Christmas tree.



Paua shell.




They grow seaweed big around here!



Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Week 1 NZ

December 12, 2014
Winchester, South Island NZ

It took us 3 days to get out of Christchurch. April had found a route done by a bike touring group that went out to the coast and over some steep hills but it looked like fun and would keep us off the main road and away from traffic. So off we go to Sumner and up Evans Pass Rd, a steep climb. As we're nearing the top we see a sign that says "Road Closed Ahead", but think that can't be our road, wouldn't you put that at the bottom of the hill? We arrive to the clapping of a guy on a mountain bike. "Where ya headed?" he asks. Lyttleton. "Can't get there from here. Road's closed due to rock fall during the earthquake." Dang! Well, maybe we can camp up here before we head back, but we didn't get water yet. Don't really want to cycle back through Christchurch tonight. Turns out the guy, Mark, is a Warmshowers host. We might be able to camp in his yard but it's slanted except down by the river. Or we could sleep in the guest room. A couple from France just left. He'll be home in an hour and he gave us directions. We beat him to the house and met his wife giving her the story. She kindly invited us in for tea while we wait for Mark to arrive. When he does, he has another idea of a place to camp: the small yard of the house across the street that's empty and going to be demolished. Perfect!


So we set up while Mark and Natalie (I think) take off to friends' house. Yup. We've got everything we need but when we go to cook our supper,we realize we forgot to get lighters:/. (Can't carry them on the plane.). How are we going to start our stove. Dang. We'd been in the house, finding the back door unlocked but it was empty. But April goes wandering through the kitchen opening drawers and doors. Nothing. Then she glances up on the windowsill and what do her wondering eyes behold??? A small lighter! Bingo!! Talk about Trail Magic!!!!! Two very happy woman. I found I was still jet lagged and ever so sleepy. I went to sleep at 7 pm (for many nights).

In the morning we find this cute note under a rock outside my tent. "Welcome to New Zealand. Merry. Christmas. It's a kiwi! Johnny" and there was a kiwi bird ornament there too. How sweet! About 30 minutes later Johnny shows up. He's an 8 yr old boy, the owner of the trampoline in the picture. That made it even more special. He said he snuck up while we were sleeping and didn't want to wake us. I love Kiwi kids! They're not like American children. Great beginning to our trip.

Our next day included lots of climbing as we were still trying to get to this major peninsula we saw on our map. We could see the mountains over there but we're having a kick ass time getting there. Poor April was on day 2 legs. I felt sorry for her. We found a stone shelter up one of the hills to camp in for the night and put our tents up inside for warmth. Oh ya, I've forgotten to mention that summer seems to have slipped away here. It's cold! Temps in the 50s with rain and icy southerlies...winds from
Antarctica! Chilly!




But we have had some amazing views:




We decided to skip the peninsula and start heading south to Bluff. We have this idea of spending New Year's Eve backpacking on Stewart Island if we can get there by then. We're cycling through mostly farm land that is quite windy at times. And the weather is cold. So one night with the wind in our faces, I asked the Universe for
some woods to camp in. Now mind you, we hadn't seen any woods for days, but they sure would have been nice. But we also hadn't gotten our evening water. Don't ya know, I looked left and see the nicest pine forest with no underbrush. And a gate with no lock. Hmmm. Looks mighty tempting. But we need water. Across the street is a small farm with the gate open but a warning about hazardous site. I sees guy out by the barn. Here goes. I ride up to him. Could we get some water? Yup. Do you know who owns the woods across the street? We need a place to camp out of this terrible wind. Not my land. The owner lives several roads back that way. Others have camped there and gotten away with it. Ok. We're going for it.

And it was so quiet in there out of the wind. Trail Magic again!

The next night we camped near one of these huge hedges they grow as wind blocks. It was so nice and warm on our side and windy on the other.




And tonight we stocked up on food because if I remember correctly, the stores close Saturday afternoon and don't reopen until Monday morning. Maybe not true of grocery stores but we're ready.




And I needed some entertainment today so I found some playmates.



Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Omitted photo...

This is my suitcase for flying to Rome!


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

"Home" Again in New Zealand

December 7, 2014
Christchurch, NZ

Everything went smoothly getting packed up and to the airport in Rome. I bought a large roll of plastic wrap and bundled my 2 panniers and sack together to make one bundle with Boris' help. (0mitted photo of bundle)

Then I wheeled everything to the train station where there was a cheap airport bus.


But since I went when Boris needed to go, I was there 7 hours ahead of my flight. Too early to check in my baggage, so Blaze had to stay with me. Certainly a conversation starter:)






My flight was to Abu Dhabi, then Sydney, then Christchurch...5.5 hours, 13 hours, and 3.5 hours. Entering NZ has some restrictions that the airlines enforce more than NZ Immigration. Having a flight out is one of them. The trick is to book a fully refundable flight, then cancel it after you arrive. My flight was to Sydney next month. With only an hour connection, New Zealand Air said I had to have a valid visa into Australia before they'd let me board. You can do it on line but do you think I could get the airport computers or the free wifi to work quickly enough to process. No. They pulled my baggage and booked me on a later flight after I resolved this restriction. The later flight was 9 hours later. I was a zombie!! I finally set up an Australian visa, but of course it's starting right away and we won't be going there for 2-3 months. A joke. And April didn't have to do this on Qantas Airlines. And customs didn't even ask about it. What a joke! Now I've got to cancel that visa somehow so it doesn't affect my getting a 12 month one when I need it.



And I arrived in Christchurch at midnight. Blaze arrived in fine shape. I got her all set up, tires re-inflated, and set off to cycle 6 miles to my hostel. A beautiful night for a bike ride! No traffic. Fresh air. Just what I needed after 48 hours of travel!!!



April, my friend who travelled with me in Europe, met up with me here. Her bike took a detour, not arriving when she did. But managing to show up the following day, thank goodness. Just a wee bit of a scare.

I saw Christchurch quickly last time I was here on a one hour tour with locals. Was nice to be able to bike around and see a few changes this time. The Cardboard Cathedral is completed for the congregation who can't use the severely damaged main church.






The Box Mall made of shipping containers has grown to many more stores.



But there are still many vacant lots and streets under repair. Still so sad to see. I did stop by the White Chairs where a chair was donated and painted white to represent the people who died in the quake. You are invited to sit and .... I did. And I cried.


So after 4 nights in our hostel, a small quiet house with private rooms and a large back garden, we cycled away.

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman