Nowra to Sydney

April 30, 2015
Kiama, NSW, AU

In Nowra, I stayed with a delightful woman who hosts Warmshowers guests and does AirBnb. It's so much fun staying with locals especially those who are comfortable hosting, as Judi was.

When she asked me to go along on a club ride the following day, I winced but said yes. I love meeting people. But I have to push to keep up on the trike. Luckily it was a flat 28 kms but I still was last. And bushed when we got to the coffee shop at the end. I stroll all day. No hurry. No worry. That was work!









But Judi bikes with a slew of guys and I couldn't pass that up:)

Today I headed up the coast to Sydney. The roads were shoulder less and drivers had to be patient but when the only road for 8 kms was a highway with only cement gutters most of the way, I knew I was in a bit of a predicament. I pedaled in the gutter when necessary but there the storm drains had slots that could swallow my tires. One time Blaze fell over. It was scary but all I could do was keep moving forward and hope I made it to the next exit safely. The curves were what scared me the most. There was only inches between me and many of the vehicles because they had nowhere to go. And can you believe there was no other road up through this area? I'd have taken it for sure.

Earlier in the day I road on the sidewalk/ bike path. And I came to STAIRS!! Really??





What I do is not easy!

But I managed to find a town reserve overlooking the ocean tonight. No one will care that I'm here;). Sure sounds wonderful to hear the ocean again. I'll sleep well.


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Testing photo upload

Camped in the abandoned garden.


Livin' the life!

BagLady

Pics "Cooma to Braidwood"

Sven, from Germany, and his bike after he fell into a big hole.









Sonja and the kids from the Jerangle Public School!









I love being in a classroom.









Blaze sleeping in the school library.









Beautiful back roads.








When animals are killed on the roads, they are counted and then marked with spray paint to note the counting...then left to remind drivers to be more careful.










Anzac Day parade.

















Dads with the strollers!









Celebrating.









Commemorating.



Livin' the life!

BagLady

Cooma to Braidswood

April 25, 2015
100th Anniversary of Anzac Day
Braidwood, NSW, AU

I finally rode out of Cooma last Tuesday. This is Saturday. I'm about 130 kms down the road. Not very far, I know. Weather has been a bit of an issue: rain. The first day I had already made plans with Sonja, the teacher of the one room school in Jerangle, to meet up with her that first night and stay at the school. I had met her at the Nordic Center in Perisher when I was up there with Adrian, and we felt like kindred spirits. I had called her because I wanted to cycle the dirt road through Jerangle and I wanted to get an idea of the condition. She offered to pick me up. Yippee.

The next day was rainy, so after talking to the kids about my bike and getting a break in the weather to let each one give it a try, I opted to stay out and play in the classroom for the day. Good idea! Because being with kids is always fun...and it rained all day. So after a second night at the school, I pedaled north through a state forest. I love the back roads. So much quieter. Beautiful scenery. Slow going. "Do you know where you're going?" Why is everyone asking me that? "This road is very dangerous." Similar sentiments keep getting repeated. But the roads are great. And the drivers kind. All except for this Australian thing for blasting the horn when they pass my tent on the side of the road in the middle of the night. Do you think you're being cute?? That's never happened before here. The other night I think he honked coming and going. The woodland floor is so rough with gum tree bark and bristly brush that I often have to camp on the mown edges of the road. So I guess I'm pretty obvious. The other morning I heard a car back up...I guess to check out my bike.

I made it to Braidwood in time for Anzac Day that commemorates the invasion into Gallipoli of the Australian and New Zealand combined forces. It's a spirit of honor that lives on today. I did not rise for the service at dawn although I did stick my head out of my tent:). I stayed around for the parade and service at the park. Don't ask me the facts. Not my forte. But the strength of this militia that was not a professional army was pretty amazing.

The weather this morning was beautiful for the events but I had read that thunderstorms were coming this afternoon. I had my supplies gathered for the next 120 kms through the mountains and water for the night, so I cycled out. When I stopped for lunch I was particularly moved by the feeling of the moment and wrote this:

No Words

I stand here in the noisy silence wanting to somehow soak up the feeling that no words can describe, no picture can capture. All alone and yet not. Human and yet not. Just one small piece in this vast universe. I see grey stormy clouds, grasslands over rolling hills, trees spotted here and there. Every now and then a car breaks the "silence" roaring down the road behind me. But oh the chatter of the birds fills the void. They are ever present. Musical. My molecules feel one with everything and my body feels non-existent. I am here. I am not here. I love this feeling. Yikes! That's thunder! Is that storm coming this way? Maybe I'd better stop being poetic and get real...and think about shelter! Now I'm here and I am human and there's things I need to do. The moment has passed...for now. But I know it will come again...and often....


I cycled down the hill as the rain came, gently at first, then heavier. The cows and horses had all found shelter under trees. This looks like it's going to be bad. There's an old lane. Wonder what's down there. An overgrown garden and a locked old, unlived in house. Think I'll camp here. Yes, I know. It's only 1 pm but that thunder sounds ominous. Quit while your ahead. So I've spent a rainy, stormy afternoon with soggy clothes strung about, all snuggled in my sleeping bag. It's getting cold. Probably low 50's. Sleeping and reading. And writing. And eating:). This food has to last me a few days. And since it's raining, it will be a cold dinner tonight. So much for the fresh tomato sauce over pasta I had planned:(. But the leftover fried tofu and sautéed spinach was delicious for lunch.

Let me share another writing I did the other day:

Sometimes

Sometimes I tire of the setting up
Sometimes I tire of the packing up
Sometimes I tire of so few things to do during the long evenings in my tent
And sometimes I tire of eating the same foods


But I never tire of seeing the misty mountains
And I never tire of feeling the breezes blow across my body
And I never tire of seeing the sunsets (I rarely see a sunrise:))
And I never tire of hearing the birds chorus.
And I never tire of feeling the sun's warmth and light break through on a gray chilly day.

Sometimes I tire of pushing the pedals round

But I never tire of the magic of living outside, of not knowing where I'll sleep each night, of the unknown that each day brings.

Nope.

Never tire of that!

(And I never tire of the beeps, the waves, and the thumbs up!)

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Pics in Cooma

Learning to fence.



Bad ass cop cars!



Earning my keep at Nordic Ski Center.



Mt. Kuscioszko, the highest point in Australia.



My Warmshowers host, Adrian Blake, and me.




Trying to figure out why I'm sick.



Coffee with the local bike club.



Recuperating.



Mountain biking.

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Two Weeks in Cooma

April 24, 2015
Braidwood, NSW, Australia

Easter Monday, ya that long ago, I was pedaling through rain and down a busy, holiday 2 lane road on my way from Jindabyne to Cooma and a Warmshowers host. Adrian had responded to my Rain Delay note the day before saying if I needed a lift, just give him a call. The day before I'd only made it 5 kms to a sweet cafe with a park next door. Outlook was for heavy showers all afternoon. Don't ya know, it never even drizzled after I out up my tent around 2 pm. That's okay. I needed a rest. Been feeling a bit tired. And besides it was Easter Sunday!

So here I was, Easter Monday, with all the cars driving back to Sydney. And I get a flat tire! Mind you, I think I was riding on it for 20 kms. Couldn't figure out why mybtrike was all of a sudden pulling right. Checked everything except that. I never get flat tires so I don't think about it. So I'm cold and wet on a busy road with no shoulder about 15 kms outside Cooma. I'd ridden 45 kms already. "Adrian? Can you come pick me up?" Sure. If he hadn't offered, I wouldn't have called. WS folks do so much for us already, I wouldn't think to ask for more. But since he offered...

And one night turned into three. Monday night Adrian took me along to a Hash run...I walked...and dinner. Tuesday night we drove 1.5 hours to Canberra to his fencing class at the University. I got to suit up:). It's a physically and mentally exhausting sport. I can attest.

In between he fixed this and that on my bike and my gear. What a handy guy! We cleaned my chain and tubes, aligned my front end (again), etc. Finally, Thursday morning I hit the road northward. A late start because I knew where I wanted to damp 35 kms down the road in a town park. Next morning, I was dragging to get up and packed. Just didn't feel up to par. Still rumbly tummy for a couple of weeks now. And fatigue. I was pedaling and crying. No energy. Not feeling myself, but not real sick. Adrian had offered that if I needed anything, just call. "Adrian? Can you pick me up?" Sure. And he got me right in to see a doc and get some antibiotics for giardia, which I thought I had. I stayed for 10 more days getting tests done with no specific diagnosis. Some times the fatigue was so bad all I could do was lay around. No energy. Then lightheadedness. Dizzy spells. Go figure. When I had 3 good days in a row, it was time to go.

During that stay I got to go up into the mountains and see the Nordic Ski Center and help spruce it up. Got to see Mt Kosiuszko, the highest point on this continent. No energy to climb it though:(. Got a tour of the area and one of the dams.

During the last couple of days at Adrian's, he got a note from a young German fellow that crashed in a large hole up in the mountains on his bike and was being brought by ambulance to the Cooma hospital. He needed a place to stay when he got out. We went down to the hospital to see if we could help. He was okay after they stitched his lip, so he came home with us. Adrian was able to arrange for someone to bring down his broken bike and gear. That saved a trip! He's hoping to replace his front fork and continue on his way. He couldn't have landed at a better place to get everything done. Thank goodness for Warmshowers! Adrian, I can't thank you enough for everything you did to make me feel comfortable and at home!



Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Pics for Buchan to Jindabyne

Dead carcasses hanging by the mailbox. Dingos I think.




A phone booth in the middle of nowhere!


And it worked!


And a trike on the cover of the phone book!!!!!!




Getting water from a tank. Had to climb through the fence because no one was around.







Old schoolhouse. First old building I've seen.













Another beautiful campsite. No one around for miles. No phone signal. REMOTE!




These guys road in one day what took me 5! Then turned around and road back the next!! Training for a mountain bike ride in Mongolia that will be 8 consecutive days like that! A century each day!!




Dam on Snowy River



Fall is coming!


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Buchan to Jindabyne

March 31, 2015
Galentipy, Victoria, AU

Last night I had one of the most magical camp sites. I passed on staying in the small, but cute town of Buchan at a quaint park campground "like the 1950's" they said. And I missed seeing the caves by 10 minutes. Wasn't sure I wanted to. Claustrophobic big time. Why do you think I love the great outdoors???

So I cycled out about 4 pm. And up and up in the hottest part of the day. Thank you umbrella! Lots of big paddocks. No shoulder to the road. No side roads. Hmmm? Wonder what tonight's camping spot will look like. Found a pulloff, or layby as they're called here. Didn't look inviting. Keep moving. You're not desperate yet. In an hour you will be. See a dirt road pulling off to the right. Possibilities up here. Nothing great. Pretty close to the road. (I don't like the noise.). Where's this road go? So I walk up the hill to a fairly mowed flat spot, a gate, and a loading ramp. This is great! So up I pedal. And the views were amazing. I love the day's end. Quiet. Restful. All the creatures are tucking in for the night. You'll see the pics in another post.

Today was a lot of climbing. Looking at the profile map tonight I now understand why my legs don't want to move. But it was spectacular views and then forests. Few cars. Fewer houses.

I found an injured animal on the side of the road in a ditch. Panting. Unable to rise. First thought it was a young deer. But it might have been a kangaroo. Hard to tell because it was curled up and couldn't stand. So sad. What could I do? Namaste. Namaste. I tried calling Wildlife Rescue number but got a recording because their swamped. Mother Nature is not always gentle. Namaste. And I biked away. And my heart hurt. Still does. Death is part of the flow of life. Doesn't make it easy.

Then later in an area that had burned out recently I see quite a bit of smoke coming out of a pile. I called 000 the emergency number and reported it. A bit further down the road I passed the fire ute going to my smoke. I hope they found all 3 hot spots I noticed. Wished they could help my injured animal. They didn't stop and talk to me.

A day full of ups and downs. And now it's dusk. That favorite part if the day. And I'm camped at a picnic spot just down the hill from a farmhouse. Very nice. But not as nice as last night:)

April 1, 2015
Suggan Buggan, Victoria, AU

Don't ya just love the name of this "fork in the road"? It's actually just a bridge and 2 houses I think. One on each side of the creek. I had a lovely, though rough, 10 km downhill on a dirt road. Day after tomorrow I pay for it with a 20 km climb. On a dirt road. Not sure I can do it in one day. We'll see. But tomorrow is a 5 km climb first thing then after a downhill, pretty flat. On dirt. That's slow going.

Whenever I've asked people about water on this stretch of secluded road, they've said "you'll cross a lot of creeks"...and they're right. I have. A lot of DRY creeks:(. It's been a dry summer. There's no water in them. Today I crawled through a fence to get to a water tank to stock up. A girl's gotta do what a girl's gotta do! I'm carrying 6 liters...good for 3 days. Then didn't the creek here have water flowing through it! Since I'm going up tomorrow I'd better stay stocked up. No water up high, I don't think. And I'm carrying food for 6 days. This is day number 2. I've got a ways to go. About 100 kms or 60 miles of tough road. Hard tellin', not knowin'...as they say in Maine.

I had amazing views out over the Alpine National Park of beautiful mountains. Lots of eucalyptus trees as far as the eye can see. It's a sight I never tire of. Takes my breath away every time. I'm in awe!

I'm at a town camp spot tonight. Thank you, Suggan Buggan! Free. And a spotless outhouse...with toilet paper!

April 2, 2015
Running Waters campsite on the Snowy River,
New South Wales, AU

Another day on all gravel road. Took from 8:30 to 4 pm to go 30 kms and I'm pooped! But it was such a wonderful ride and worth all the effort.

In NZ it was the foliage that impressed me and I tried to learn the names of many different trees while I was there. In Australia, it's the birds! I didn't know they had so many exotic birds here. And I'm not a bird person. But here they're do distinctly different. From the white cockatoos to the lyrical mud larks. Parrots, willy wags, and kookaburras. And many songs I don't even know yet. They are so entertaining. And so plentiful. What a surprise.

So I've officially bathed in the infamous Snowy River. And did it ever feel good. Simple pleasures: a bath and hair wash. And a quiet campsite. For a holiday weekend, I've been pretty lucky. One place I passed they were packed in bumper to bumper. But they must have had more room because some people stopped on here on their way there...and didn't return. Yup. Lucky me.

By my estimations I have 3 more days on this incredible road through the wilderness. Must say this has been one of my most favorite rides ever. I chatted with a woman today who invited me to come visit whenever I get to Brisbane. Thanks Jackie. See ya in a few months. And she said I've got quite a climb ahead: the 20 kms...and steep. I hope I can break it into 2 days. Hope there's a place to camp halfway up. Some days I can grind away, no worries. Other times each pedal stroke is painful and I stop frequently. And I never know when to expect what. I just know I'll get to the top. Somehow. Because that's what I have to do.

April 3, 2013
Wallace Craigie Lookout
"Not an official camping spot", so said the ranger I'd been seeing on and off all day as I climbed that freakin' hill. But he said ok. Just one night.

I had to get 6 liters of water from the river at the bottom before this all day climb. Didn't know where I'd be camping the next 2 nights and what my water options were. That's 12 lbs of water I hauled up the dusty gravel road during "rush hour" Good Friday traffic. I should have counted the cars, trucks, 4 WD utes towing back country campers, trucks hauling trailers with horses that passed me today raising up dust so bad one guy said I needed a gas mask:). Most slowed as they passed to lower the dust. Only a few sped by thoughtlessly. Many took pictures, or waved, or gave thumbs up...and most smiled. To see me slowly grinding up this dusty gravel road with my umbrella up, grinning away, must have made their day...for a moment anyways. And I made it...most of the way...still have 5 kms tomorrow. The steepest part. But today these legs were done.

April 4th
Dam on Snowy River, Jindabyne

I think I wore out my legs on that gravel after so many days of pedaling on it. My knees are throbbing. But the beauty was so worth it.

I think of all this great stuff I want to write in my journal while I'm pedaling. Then my mind goes blank when I start. Often times I can't remember if I already said something or just thought about writing it.

Yesterday I was so slow I was passed by some joggers on the gravel. How insulting! Now will folks believe me when I say I'm slow? But I did see a brumby (wild mustang), I think. But it was near a farm so maybe it was just a loose horse. Someone did say they like to hang out near the ranches, going from place to place. I also saw kangaroos. He was right in the road looking at me as I fumbled to get my phone out. Before I could take the picture, he hopped away. I put the phone away. Then out hopped his mate across the road:/. It wouldn't have been a good shot too far away. I'm seriously thinking about a super zoom camera because of all the shots I can't get with what I have. Then there's the issue of how to post them off the camera. If I could pick and choose which ones to transfer with wifi I'd like that feature. But I don't want all of them to move that way. Too much power zapper. Power is a previous commodity. Never enough.

I got into Jindabyne and never felt so alone in a crowd. Think of a mountain resort town on a big holiday weekend. People everywhere. Buzzing around chaotically. Not locals. No connections. Rain. And I don't have a plan. And I'm tired. Culture shock, to say the least. Got my groceries and got out of town. Now where to go? Head out of town and see what I can find. Look at that wide "grassy" area overlooking the dam accessible only by bikes or walking. Yup. Camp there!

Sometimes I think: did I miss seeing important or interesting sights by passing through so quickly? Should I stay and play tourist? Not in those crowds. Not this weekend. I'm enjoying lying alone next to the lake. I'm a traveler, not a tourist.

But I did arrange a Warmshowers host for tomorrow night in Cooma. Shower will be nice:)


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Pics

How lucky am I?






Don't see this sign anywhere else in the world.



10 ft guesstimate maybe was generous:)



Just like on MacLeod's Daughters station, Drovers Run.















A homeless man living on a bike. So much stuff he has to pull it and not ride it.


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Sandy Point to Bairnsdale

March 28, 2015
Bairnsdale, Victoria, Australia
Holiday Park

38 years ago today my first baby was born. What a happy mommy I was! Thank you, Avery, for choosing me to be your mother! No matter how far apart we are, you're still right under my heart. Love you, Sweetie!!

First night out from Sandy Point was a short ride into Foster, a darling town I'd had lunch in when the Coupers gave me a tour. And I had spied the town park by the creek as a possible tent spot. Since it was Friday and there was a farmers market scheduled for Saturday morning, I decided to hang out. And who did I run into? Keith Couper! He's a park ranger who's office is in Foster. And he spotted Blaze and couldn't miss my voice:). I also decided I needed a project for the long winter nights and there was a yarn shop in town. Sox are a good project to carry on the bike, don't ya think? The yarn is heritage wool yarn from Italy and knits up into a Fair Isle like pattern. The needles are so small I feel like I'm knitting with miniature needles:). And now that I gave most of one cuff done I think the sizing is off. Yes, I did a test and it looked like I would run big which would be fine. I may be ripping these out. S'okay. I've got lots of time:))!!

The market was a bust. Few veggies and that's what I wanted. They say it's been a poor growing season this summer with little rain.

Along the road into the forest, I met a farmer and chatted. A while later he pulled up behind me. He said he just had to tell me how dangerous it was to bike the Grand Ridge Rd. And now at least he can sleep because he warned me. Ok. But that's the route I want to take. Appreciate the warning.

That night I was camped on the side of the very, very quiet road overlooking a beautiful valley. Got to watch an amazing sunset. About 9:30, after I was asleep I hear a car pull up and some guy talking to me. "No camping." Really. I think it's all right. The police told me it was. "Ok, if the police said it." Then he wanted to know where I was headed. And I explained my route. "You can't go up in there! Gravel road. Big boulders. Dangerous logging trucks!" Ok. Thanks for the warning. "How old are ya?" Old enough, I replied. Didn't want him thinking I was some daffy grandma:). Then he told me his farm was across the way if I needed anything. Just need some sleep, I replied.

So in the morning, I'm thinking: two locals have told me it's dangerous "to go in there"! Hmmm. Wonder what it's like. Let's go and find out! If it's bad I'll turn around... like I've ever done that:)). I hate retracing my steps. Just ask April;)

I did get water at the first farmhouse I saw. Not his. And that was good because it was the last one I saw all day. But I saw forest views and wallabies and a black snake. All too fast for pics. The road was packed gravel and like a wide bike trail. One of my better decisions!

Camped again right on the side of the road. We're talking 10 ft off. No other options. And in the morning didn't a truck fly by. I had no trucks the day before because it was Sunday. None on Monday either. Or not many. That day the forest road ended and I was back on farm roads. Paved. Minimal traffic. Late in the day I was looking for water and stopped at several houses with no answer. The 4th house was a charm. A delightful 2 women, mother-in-laws. I got offered the lawn to camp but said I just needed someplace quiet so I was going down to the swing bridge. Another good idea. Delightful place with mowed grass and picnic tables. So nice I stayed 2 nights. Some times I just need a rest and I'm learning not to pass up great places. But 2 nights was enough. I was ready to go on.

But my bike needed attention. Still grinding gears. Bike shop in Sale, Darren aligned it and fixed the cable. All no charge. I went to the cafe next door where I had had lunch and chatted with the owner and got Darren's favorite thing and took it back to him. One good turn deserves another.

Back on the road out of town I camped on the mowed grass on a side road. Right near the firehouse and wouldn't ya know it had bright lights on all night :/. Oh well. It was quiet.

The next day had WIND! Tail winds that blew me into Bairnsdale where I needed to get chores done before the mountains. Also needed laundry and a shower so I booked into the Holiday Park for 2 nights. Ahh. A resort!


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman