Two Weeks in Sydney

Ok. So I'm busy living and not writing. And I'm sorry. Life's getting in the way. Cycling up the coast towards Sydney was fun because I was back at the coast. What is it about the ocean that soothes the soul?

Had some road excitement when the only road was a highway which started out with a nice wide shoulder when I first got on it. Then got narrower and narrower until it disappeared and I was riding straddling the storm drain. That worked until I came to a grate with the slots running parallel to my wheels. Yikes. Can't roll over that. On a blind curve. On a 4 lane divided highway at rush hour. No space for me in the road and I have to move into the road to get around the grate. A break. No cars. Quick. Out. And around. And back in the gutter. Whew!! How did I get myself into this predicament? This is a dangerous place to be. But the only thing I can do is keep moving forward until I get to the next exit. OMG. A tree across the ditch. Now I've got to get around that too. And this is the only road between Gerringong and Kiama. Hard to believe. Well I made it off that crazy road alive, obviously, and found a delightful spot to camp in a town park overlooking the water. How lucky am I?

I spoke with my friend in Sydney and she insisted on picking me up the next day. Let's see how far I get. I'll call ya at 2 pm. By noon the next day I was soaked to the bone, tired of the traffic and no shoulder on the roads. Tried to catch a train but couldn't get my bike to the platform. Called Carina and she said she was on her way. But it would take 1.5 hours to get to me. I kept pedaling north. Long climb. No room for me. Ugh. Got to top of hill and I had a flat. Rain. Rain gives me flats. That's twice it's happened. I'll wait here for Carina.
I met Carina on the Camino. She was hiking with her sister-in-law. They're both from South Africa but Carina now lives in Australia with her family. She invited me to visit if I ever came here. Little did she know I take people up on their offers:)

Driving in to Sydney made me awfully glad I wasn't biking. Very busy place! Would have been an interesting challenge. Not fun in the rain.

What a wonderful welcome I got at the house. She lives in a suburb called Thornleigh right on the train line. A husband, Gabby, and three kids: Gustaf, 28; Ruan, 26; and Carli, 18 (2 boys and a girl). Lovely, lively, and engaging family. I had the most marvelous time! Got chores done, stuff repaired, body rested. Played with the dog, Bella who was so sweet and patient when she'd bring me her soggy ball, drop it at my feet, and wait patiently for me to play with her.

We had wonderful discussions over meals. Felt so great to be part of a family doing normal things even if only for a little while.

One day I went down into Sydney and met up with Sven. He was the young German lad who crashed his bike into a hole and was hospitalized in Cooma. He invited me to come play when he got to town. We spent the day seeing the Harbor Bridge, the Opera House, and riding ferries around the harbor. Great fun!


Harbor Bridge!


Sydney Opera House



Sunset over the Opera House



Sven and me picnicking in the park.

Carina and I spent several days touring the numerous harbors and places around Sydney. Forests and water views are just a stone's throw away. Quite an amazing city.



Carina and me playing around.



View of Palm Beach where I will cycle north through in a few days.




Feeding the birds has a whole new meaning.



Met up with Mark Carrington, a Facebook friend, and got the scoop on cycle northward up the coast and through the Outback.


One day I had to ride my bike about 12 kms to a shop for repairs. I had to time it for after rush hour and it was still crazy. Then I got pulled over by the police with lights and a siren. Always exciting! Do you know you ran a red light back at Fox Valley Rd? I did?? Wait a minute. I crossed at the crosswalk with the traffic that had a green light then flowed on with them. Oh, he said...I didn't see that. Ok. Did you know we have a helmet law? Yes but I have a medical exemption. But it's with all my gear at the house where I'm staying. You should keep it with your passport. Ok. Good idea. Thank you, officer. Have a nice day. Whew!!! (Not appropriate to film the officer, I guessed :))

While parked in Sydney I took a side trip up into the Blue Mountains ...next blog post.




Thank you Van Wyk family for making me feel so welcome and truly "at home"! You guys rock!!!


Livin' the life!

BagLady

Nowra to Sydney

April 30, 2015
Kiama, NSW, AU

In Nowra, I stayed with a delightful woman who hosts Warmshowers guests and does AirBnb. It's so much fun staying with locals especially those who are comfortable hosting, as Judi was.

When she asked me to go along on a club ride the following day, I winced but said yes. I love meeting people. But I have to push to keep up on the trike. Luckily it was a flat 28 kms but I still was last. And bushed when we got to the coffee shop at the end. I stroll all day. No hurry. No worry. That was work!









But Judi bikes with a slew of guys and I couldn't pass that up:)

Today I headed up the coast to Sydney. The roads were shoulder less and drivers had to be patient but when the only road for 8 kms was a highway with only cement gutters most of the way, I knew I was in a bit of a predicament. I pedaled in the gutter when necessary but there the storm drains had slots that could swallow my tires. One time Blaze fell over. It was scary but all I could do was keep moving forward and hope I made it to the next exit safely. The curves were what scared me the most. There was only inches between me and many of the vehicles because they had nowhere to go. And can you believe there was no other road up through this area? I'd have taken it for sure.

Earlier in the day I road on the sidewalk/ bike path. And I came to STAIRS!! Really??





What I do is not easy!

But I managed to find a town reserve overlooking the ocean tonight. No one will care that I'm here;). Sure sounds wonderful to hear the ocean again. I'll sleep well.


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Testing photo upload

Camped in the abandoned garden.


Livin' the life!

BagLady

Pics "Cooma to Braidwood"

Sven, from Germany, and his bike after he fell into a big hole.









Sonja and the kids from the Jerangle Public School!









I love being in a classroom.









Blaze sleeping in the school library.









Beautiful back roads.








When animals are killed on the roads, they are counted and then marked with spray paint to note the counting...then left to remind drivers to be more careful.










Anzac Day parade.

















Dads with the strollers!









Celebrating.









Commemorating.



Livin' the life!

BagLady

Cooma to Braidswood

April 25, 2015
100th Anniversary of Anzac Day
Braidwood, NSW, AU

I finally rode out of Cooma last Tuesday. This is Saturday. I'm about 130 kms down the road. Not very far, I know. Weather has been a bit of an issue: rain. The first day I had already made plans with Sonja, the teacher of the one room school in Jerangle, to meet up with her that first night and stay at the school. I had met her at the Nordic Center in Perisher when I was up there with Adrian, and we felt like kindred spirits. I had called her because I wanted to cycle the dirt road through Jerangle and I wanted to get an idea of the condition. She offered to pick me up. Yippee.

The next day was rainy, so after talking to the kids about my bike and getting a break in the weather to let each one give it a try, I opted to stay out and play in the classroom for the day. Good idea! Because being with kids is always fun...and it rained all day. So after a second night at the school, I pedaled north through a state forest. I love the back roads. So much quieter. Beautiful scenery. Slow going. "Do you know where you're going?" Why is everyone asking me that? "This road is very dangerous." Similar sentiments keep getting repeated. But the roads are great. And the drivers kind. All except for this Australian thing for blasting the horn when they pass my tent on the side of the road in the middle of the night. Do you think you're being cute?? That's never happened before here. The other night I think he honked coming and going. The woodland floor is so rough with gum tree bark and bristly brush that I often have to camp on the mown edges of the road. So I guess I'm pretty obvious. The other morning I heard a car back up...I guess to check out my bike.

I made it to Braidwood in time for Anzac Day that commemorates the invasion into Gallipoli of the Australian and New Zealand combined forces. It's a spirit of honor that lives on today. I did not rise for the service at dawn although I did stick my head out of my tent:). I stayed around for the parade and service at the park. Don't ask me the facts. Not my forte. But the strength of this militia that was not a professional army was pretty amazing.

The weather this morning was beautiful for the events but I had read that thunderstorms were coming this afternoon. I had my supplies gathered for the next 120 kms through the mountains and water for the night, so I cycled out. When I stopped for lunch I was particularly moved by the feeling of the moment and wrote this:

No Words

I stand here in the noisy silence wanting to somehow soak up the feeling that no words can describe, no picture can capture. All alone and yet not. Human and yet not. Just one small piece in this vast universe. I see grey stormy clouds, grasslands over rolling hills, trees spotted here and there. Every now and then a car breaks the "silence" roaring down the road behind me. But oh the chatter of the birds fills the void. They are ever present. Musical. My molecules feel one with everything and my body feels non-existent. I am here. I am not here. I love this feeling. Yikes! That's thunder! Is that storm coming this way? Maybe I'd better stop being poetic and get real...and think about shelter! Now I'm here and I am human and there's things I need to do. The moment has passed...for now. But I know it will come again...and often....


I cycled down the hill as the rain came, gently at first, then heavier. The cows and horses had all found shelter under trees. This looks like it's going to be bad. There's an old lane. Wonder what's down there. An overgrown garden and a locked old, unlived in house. Think I'll camp here. Yes, I know. It's only 1 pm but that thunder sounds ominous. Quit while your ahead. So I've spent a rainy, stormy afternoon with soggy clothes strung about, all snuggled in my sleeping bag. It's getting cold. Probably low 50's. Sleeping and reading. And writing. And eating:). This food has to last me a few days. And since it's raining, it will be a cold dinner tonight. So much for the fresh tomato sauce over pasta I had planned:(. But the leftover fried tofu and sautéed spinach was delicious for lunch.

Let me share another writing I did the other day:

Sometimes

Sometimes I tire of the setting up
Sometimes I tire of the packing up
Sometimes I tire of so few things to do during the long evenings in my tent
And sometimes I tire of eating the same foods


But I never tire of seeing the misty mountains
And I never tire of feeling the breezes blow across my body
And I never tire of seeing the sunsets (I rarely see a sunrise:))
And I never tire of hearing the birds chorus.
And I never tire of feeling the sun's warmth and light break through on a gray chilly day.

Sometimes I tire of pushing the pedals round

But I never tire of the magic of living outside, of not knowing where I'll sleep each night, of the unknown that each day brings.

Nope.

Never tire of that!

(And I never tire of the beeps, the waves, and the thumbs up!)

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Pics in Cooma

Learning to fence.



Bad ass cop cars!



Earning my keep at Nordic Ski Center.



Mt. Kuscioszko, the highest point in Australia.



My Warmshowers host, Adrian Blake, and me.




Trying to figure out why I'm sick.



Coffee with the local bike club.



Recuperating.



Mountain biking.

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Two Weeks in Cooma

April 24, 2015
Braidwood, NSW, Australia

Easter Monday, ya that long ago, I was pedaling through rain and down a busy, holiday 2 lane road on my way from Jindabyne to Cooma and a Warmshowers host. Adrian had responded to my Rain Delay note the day before saying if I needed a lift, just give him a call. The day before I'd only made it 5 kms to a sweet cafe with a park next door. Outlook was for heavy showers all afternoon. Don't ya know, it never even drizzled after I out up my tent around 2 pm. That's okay. I needed a rest. Been feeling a bit tired. And besides it was Easter Sunday!

So here I was, Easter Monday, with all the cars driving back to Sydney. And I get a flat tire! Mind you, I think I was riding on it for 20 kms. Couldn't figure out why mybtrike was all of a sudden pulling right. Checked everything except that. I never get flat tires so I don't think about it. So I'm cold and wet on a busy road with no shoulder about 15 kms outside Cooma. I'd ridden 45 kms already. "Adrian? Can you come pick me up?" Sure. If he hadn't offered, I wouldn't have called. WS folks do so much for us already, I wouldn't think to ask for more. But since he offered...

And one night turned into three. Monday night Adrian took me along to a Hash run...I walked...and dinner. Tuesday night we drove 1.5 hours to Canberra to his fencing class at the University. I got to suit up:). It's a physically and mentally exhausting sport. I can attest.

In between he fixed this and that on my bike and my gear. What a handy guy! We cleaned my chain and tubes, aligned my front end (again), etc. Finally, Thursday morning I hit the road northward. A late start because I knew where I wanted to damp 35 kms down the road in a town park. Next morning, I was dragging to get up and packed. Just didn't feel up to par. Still rumbly tummy for a couple of weeks now. And fatigue. I was pedaling and crying. No energy. Not feeling myself, but not real sick. Adrian had offered that if I needed anything, just call. "Adrian? Can you pick me up?" Sure. And he got me right in to see a doc and get some antibiotics for giardia, which I thought I had. I stayed for 10 more days getting tests done with no specific diagnosis. Some times the fatigue was so bad all I could do was lay around. No energy. Then lightheadedness. Dizzy spells. Go figure. When I had 3 good days in a row, it was time to go.

During that stay I got to go up into the mountains and see the Nordic Ski Center and help spruce it up. Got to see Mt Kosiuszko, the highest point on this continent. No energy to climb it though:(. Got a tour of the area and one of the dams.

During the last couple of days at Adrian's, he got a note from a young German fellow that crashed in a large hole up in the mountains on his bike and was being brought by ambulance to the Cooma hospital. He needed a place to stay when he got out. We went down to the hospital to see if we could help. He was okay after they stitched his lip, so he came home with us. Adrian was able to arrange for someone to bring down his broken bike and gear. That saved a trip! He's hoping to replace his front fork and continue on his way. He couldn't have landed at a better place to get everything done. Thank goodness for Warmshowers! Adrian, I can't thank you enough for everything you did to make me feel comfortable and at home!



Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Pics for Buchan to Jindabyne

Dead carcasses hanging by the mailbox. Dingos I think.




A phone booth in the middle of nowhere!


And it worked!


And a trike on the cover of the phone book!!!!!!




Getting water from a tank. Had to climb through the fence because no one was around.







Old schoolhouse. First old building I've seen.













Another beautiful campsite. No one around for miles. No phone signal. REMOTE!




These guys road in one day what took me 5! Then turned around and road back the next!! Training for a mountain bike ride in Mongolia that will be 8 consecutive days like that! A century each day!!




Dam on Snowy River



Fall is coming!


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Buchan to Jindabyne

March 31, 2015
Galentipy, Victoria, AU

Last night I had one of the most magical camp sites. I passed on staying in the small, but cute town of Buchan at a quaint park campground "like the 1950's" they said. And I missed seeing the caves by 10 minutes. Wasn't sure I wanted to. Claustrophobic big time. Why do you think I love the great outdoors???

So I cycled out about 4 pm. And up and up in the hottest part of the day. Thank you umbrella! Lots of big paddocks. No shoulder to the road. No side roads. Hmmm? Wonder what tonight's camping spot will look like. Found a pulloff, or layby as they're called here. Didn't look inviting. Keep moving. You're not desperate yet. In an hour you will be. See a dirt road pulling off to the right. Possibilities up here. Nothing great. Pretty close to the road. (I don't like the noise.). Where's this road go? So I walk up the hill to a fairly mowed flat spot, a gate, and a loading ramp. This is great! So up I pedal. And the views were amazing. I love the day's end. Quiet. Restful. All the creatures are tucking in for the night. You'll see the pics in another post.

Today was a lot of climbing. Looking at the profile map tonight I now understand why my legs don't want to move. But it was spectacular views and then forests. Few cars. Fewer houses.

I found an injured animal on the side of the road in a ditch. Panting. Unable to rise. First thought it was a young deer. But it might have been a kangaroo. Hard to tell because it was curled up and couldn't stand. So sad. What could I do? Namaste. Namaste. I tried calling Wildlife Rescue number but got a recording because their swamped. Mother Nature is not always gentle. Namaste. And I biked away. And my heart hurt. Still does. Death is part of the flow of life. Doesn't make it easy.

Then later in an area that had burned out recently I see quite a bit of smoke coming out of a pile. I called 000 the emergency number and reported it. A bit further down the road I passed the fire ute going to my smoke. I hope they found all 3 hot spots I noticed. Wished they could help my injured animal. They didn't stop and talk to me.

A day full of ups and downs. And now it's dusk. That favorite part if the day. And I'm camped at a picnic spot just down the hill from a farmhouse. Very nice. But not as nice as last night:)

April 1, 2015
Suggan Buggan, Victoria, AU

Don't ya just love the name of this "fork in the road"? It's actually just a bridge and 2 houses I think. One on each side of the creek. I had a lovely, though rough, 10 km downhill on a dirt road. Day after tomorrow I pay for it with a 20 km climb. On a dirt road. Not sure I can do it in one day. We'll see. But tomorrow is a 5 km climb first thing then after a downhill, pretty flat. On dirt. That's slow going.

Whenever I've asked people about water on this stretch of secluded road, they've said "you'll cross a lot of creeks"...and they're right. I have. A lot of DRY creeks:(. It's been a dry summer. There's no water in them. Today I crawled through a fence to get to a water tank to stock up. A girl's gotta do what a girl's gotta do! I'm carrying 6 liters...good for 3 days. Then didn't the creek here have water flowing through it! Since I'm going up tomorrow I'd better stay stocked up. No water up high, I don't think. And I'm carrying food for 6 days. This is day number 2. I've got a ways to go. About 100 kms or 60 miles of tough road. Hard tellin', not knowin'...as they say in Maine.

I had amazing views out over the Alpine National Park of beautiful mountains. Lots of eucalyptus trees as far as the eye can see. It's a sight I never tire of. Takes my breath away every time. I'm in awe!

I'm at a town camp spot tonight. Thank you, Suggan Buggan! Free. And a spotless outhouse...with toilet paper!

April 2, 2015
Running Waters campsite on the Snowy River,
New South Wales, AU

Another day on all gravel road. Took from 8:30 to 4 pm to go 30 kms and I'm pooped! But it was such a wonderful ride and worth all the effort.

In NZ it was the foliage that impressed me and I tried to learn the names of many different trees while I was there. In Australia, it's the birds! I didn't know they had so many exotic birds here. And I'm not a bird person. But here they're do distinctly different. From the white cockatoos to the lyrical mud larks. Parrots, willy wags, and kookaburras. And many songs I don't even know yet. They are so entertaining. And so plentiful. What a surprise.

So I've officially bathed in the infamous Snowy River. And did it ever feel good. Simple pleasures: a bath and hair wash. And a quiet campsite. For a holiday weekend, I've been pretty lucky. One place I passed they were packed in bumper to bumper. But they must have had more room because some people stopped on here on their way there...and didn't return. Yup. Lucky me.

By my estimations I have 3 more days on this incredible road through the wilderness. Must say this has been one of my most favorite rides ever. I chatted with a woman today who invited me to come visit whenever I get to Brisbane. Thanks Jackie. See ya in a few months. And she said I've got quite a climb ahead: the 20 kms...and steep. I hope I can break it into 2 days. Hope there's a place to camp halfway up. Some days I can grind away, no worries. Other times each pedal stroke is painful and I stop frequently. And I never know when to expect what. I just know I'll get to the top. Somehow. Because that's what I have to do.

April 3, 2013
Wallace Craigie Lookout
"Not an official camping spot", so said the ranger I'd been seeing on and off all day as I climbed that freakin' hill. But he said ok. Just one night.

I had to get 6 liters of water from the river at the bottom before this all day climb. Didn't know where I'd be camping the next 2 nights and what my water options were. That's 12 lbs of water I hauled up the dusty gravel road during "rush hour" Good Friday traffic. I should have counted the cars, trucks, 4 WD utes towing back country campers, trucks hauling trailers with horses that passed me today raising up dust so bad one guy said I needed a gas mask:). Most slowed as they passed to lower the dust. Only a few sped by thoughtlessly. Many took pictures, or waved, or gave thumbs up...and most smiled. To see me slowly grinding up this dusty gravel road with my umbrella up, grinning away, must have made their day...for a moment anyways. And I made it...most of the way...still have 5 kms tomorrow. The steepest part. But today these legs were done.

April 4th
Dam on Snowy River, Jindabyne

I think I wore out my legs on that gravel after so many days of pedaling on it. My knees are throbbing. But the beauty was so worth it.

I think of all this great stuff I want to write in my journal while I'm pedaling. Then my mind goes blank when I start. Often times I can't remember if I already said something or just thought about writing it.

Yesterday I was so slow I was passed by some joggers on the gravel. How insulting! Now will folks believe me when I say I'm slow? But I did see a brumby (wild mustang), I think. But it was near a farm so maybe it was just a loose horse. Someone did say they like to hang out near the ranches, going from place to place. I also saw kangaroos. He was right in the road looking at me as I fumbled to get my phone out. Before I could take the picture, he hopped away. I put the phone away. Then out hopped his mate across the road:/. It wouldn't have been a good shot too far away. I'm seriously thinking about a super zoom camera because of all the shots I can't get with what I have. Then there's the issue of how to post them off the camera. If I could pick and choose which ones to transfer with wifi I'd like that feature. But I don't want all of them to move that way. Too much power zapper. Power is a previous commodity. Never enough.

I got into Jindabyne and never felt so alone in a crowd. Think of a mountain resort town on a big holiday weekend. People everywhere. Buzzing around chaotically. Not locals. No connections. Rain. And I don't have a plan. And I'm tired. Culture shock, to say the least. Got my groceries and got out of town. Now where to go? Head out of town and see what I can find. Look at that wide "grassy" area overlooking the dam accessible only by bikes or walking. Yup. Camp there!

Sometimes I think: did I miss seeing important or interesting sights by passing through so quickly? Should I stay and play tourist? Not in those crowds. Not this weekend. I'm enjoying lying alone next to the lake. I'm a traveler, not a tourist.

But I did arrange a Warmshowers host for tomorrow night in Cooma. Shower will be nice:)


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman