Sunday, May 24, 2015

Bush Walking in the Blue Mountains

May 15, 2015
Blackheath, NSW, AU

In the USA it's called backpacking...in New Zealand, tramping...and here bush walking.

Adrian, my Warmshowers host from Cooma, insisted I come into the Blue Mountains to see their wonders and he was right. He had an old friend, Stu, who lived in Blackheath so I took the train with my backpack and he drove up 5 hours and there we met up again. Brrr. What a difference in temperatures from Sydney! And the wind was whipping. They guys met my train Monday afternoon and gave me the grand tour of the overlooks. This place looks like the Grand Canyon all full of gum trees. Gorgeous red rock cliffs with lush green valleys. Breathtaking. The blue hue of the trees gives it it's name.



The three of us!


The Three Sisters.



Blue Mountains is a misnomer to me...more like a Grand Canyon...red cliffs with green trees filling it.



After a night at Stu's place where we watched a movie called The Edge about the Blue Mountains and ate another wonderful dinner prepared by Adrian, we packed up our backpacks and got dropped off at Mt. Victoria Falls.


Down, down, down we trudged to the valley floor. Everything is so different down at this level. The river through here wasn't even obvious before.

The trails here are not as maintained so scratchy bushes and branches leave their marks on my arms and legs...which of course are bare. And the twigs and gum bark strips keep catching in my sandals.


I've never had such difficulty hiking in sandals before. Very challenging here. Adrian is a quick hiker and my legs are just not keeping up. But I'm trying. Once down along the river, the hike is fairly flat but has it's ups and overs. Eventually we come to the Blue Gum Forest a National Heritage site.






These trees are magnificent and majestic. So tall! A bit further on is a campsite and we set up. Adrian loaned me a backpacking tent as my 2 person tent would be to heavy for my small, tattered backpack.



And he just used a tarp and Tyvek ground cloth. Guess the snakes and spiders aren't really an issue. I wanted a fire since the sun sets early, it's getting chilly, and there's someone to chat with. I never have one usually.


The fire is noticed by another camper and he comes to join us. How nice. He's a doctor from Perth (other side of Australia) and his wife is visiting family here, so he took a mini bush walking trip.

That night was rather warm, surprisingly. The valley must be why. The next day we continue along the valley. Steep red rock walls loom above us. Waterfalls are plentiful. I couldn't be happier. But my legs are killing me. I have biking legs!!!












Lots of waterfalls!








Lunch break


And stream crossings.


Further on we come to their Grand Canyon: a steep, narrow canyon some places only 15-20 ft wide. And the bottom isn't in view. We're hiking a rock ledge. This part is a day hike loop that's been "paved" with good steps and a rock footpath. Quite nice. But it ends with a long, steep, many-steps climb up out of this canyon. Whew! Now my legs are screaming.

An absolutely amazing Australian trek. If the weather had been warmer I would haves to have done some canyoning: abseil down into a canyon and swim your way out of it. Their are many up here where you have to do that. The canyon hike book mentions whether or not abseiling or swimming are required and how many and how long! Too bad it's cold here now!

For our next activity we drove out further north and camped for the night way back in off a dirt road, then the following day drove 35 kms down the same dirt road that was poorly surfaced and full of pot holes. We went to the Glow Worm Tunnel and tramped an old railway line. This was a day hike and again beautiful views of rocky cliffs and lush valley floors. We even did a scamper up the rocky outcropping to get better views.

But all good things must end, so I said goodbye to Adrian as he put me on the train back to Sydney before his long drive back to Cooma.


And I can't forget to mention finding a leech attached to my leg that Adrian had to knock off. Yuck!!!!! I didn't even know it was a concern but they're everywhere in the bush I was later told. And I only thought snakes and spiders were an issue.



Random pics...














Livin' the life!

BagLady

Thursday, May 21, 2015

Two Weeks in Sydney








Ok. So I'm busy living and not writing. And I'm sorry. Life's getting in the way. Cycling up the coast towards Sydney was fun because I was back at the coast. What is it about the ocean that soothes the soul?

Had some road excitement when the only road was a highway which started out with a nice wide shoulder when I first got on it. Then got narrower and narrower until it disappeared and I was riding straddling the storm drain. That worked until I came to a grate with the slots running parallel to my wheels. Yikes. Can't roll over that. On a blind curve. On a 4 lane divided highway at rush hour. No space for me in the road and I have to move into the road to get around the grate. A break. No cars. Quick. Out. And around. And back in the gutter. Whew!! How did I get myself into this predicament? This is a dangerous place to be. But the only thing I can do is keep moving forward until I get to the next exit. OMG. A tree across the ditch. Now I've got to get around that too. And this is the only road between Gerringong and Kiama. Hard to believe. Well I made it off that crazy road alive, obviously, and found a delightful spot to camp in a town park overlooking the water. How lucky am I?

I spoke with my friend in Sydney and she insisted on picking me up the next day. Let's see how far I get. I'll call ya at 2 pm. By noon the next day I was soaked to the bone, tired of the traffic and no shoulder on the roads. Tried to catch a train but couldn't get my bike to the platform. Called Carina and she said she was on her way. But it would take 1.5 hours to get to me. I kept pedaling north. Long climb. No room for me. Ugh. Got to top of hill and I had a flat. Rain. Rain gives me flats. That's twice it's happened. I'll wait here for Carina.
I met Carina on the Camino. She was hiking with her sister-in-law. They're both from South Africa but Carina now lives in Australia with her family. She invited me to visit if I ever came here. Little did she know I take people up on their offers:)

Driving in to Sydney made me awfully glad I wasn't biking. Very busy place! Would have been an interesting challenge. Not fun in the rain.

What a wonderful welcome I got at the house. She lives in a suburb called Thornleigh right on the train line. A husband, Gabby, and three kids: Gustaf, 28; Ruan, 26; and Carli, 18 (2 boys and a girl). Lovely, lively, and engaging family. I had the most marvelous time! Got chores done, stuff repaired, body rested. Played with the dog, Bella who was so sweet and patient when she'd bring me her soggy ball, drop it at my feet, and wait patiently for me to play with her.

We had wonderful discussions over meals. Felt so great to be part of a family doing normal things even if only for a little while.

One day I went down into Sydney and met up with Sven. He was the young German lad who crashed his bike into a hole and was hospitalized in Cooma. He invited me to come play when he got to town. We spent the day seeing the Harbor Bridge, the Opera House, and riding ferries around the harbor. Great fun!


Harbor Bridge!


Sydney Opera House



Sunset over the Opera House



Sven and me picnicking in the park.

Carina and I spent several days touring the numerous harbors and places around Sydney. Forests and water views are just a stone's throw away. Quite an amazing city.



Carina and me playing around.



View of Palm Beach where I will cycle north through in a few days.




Feeding the birds has a whole new meaning.



Met up with Mark Carrington, a Facebook friend, and got the scoop on cycle northward up the coast and through the Outback.


One day I had to ride my bike about 12 kms to a shop for repairs. I had to time it for after rush hour and it was still crazy. Then I got pulled over by the police with lights and a siren. Always exciting! Do you know you ran a red light back at Fox Valley Rd? I did?? Wait a minute. I crossed at the crosswalk with the traffic that had a green light then flowed on with them. Oh, he said...I didn't see that. Ok. Did you know we have a helmet law? Yes but I have a medical exemption. But it's with all my gear at the house where I'm staying. You should keep it with your passport. Ok. Good idea. Thank you, officer. Have a nice day. Whew!!! (Not appropriate to film the officer, I guessed :))

While parked in Sydney I took a side trip up into the Blue Mountains ...next blog post.




Thank you Van Wyk family for making me feel so welcome and truly "at home"! You guys rock!!!


Livin' the life!

BagLady

Wednesday, May 20, 2015

Nowra to Sydney

April 30, 2015
Kiama, NSW, AU

In Nowra, I stayed with a delightful woman who hosts Warmshowers guests and does AirBnb. It's so much fun staying with locals especially those who are comfortable hosting, as Judi was.

When she asked me to go along on a club ride the following day, I winced but said yes. I love meeting people. But I have to push to keep up on the trike. Luckily it was a flat 28 kms but I still was last. And bushed when we got to the coffee shop at the end. I stroll all day. No hurry. No worry. That was work!









But Judi bikes with a slew of guys and I couldn't pass that up:)

Today I headed up the coast to Sydney. The roads were shoulder less and drivers had to be patient but when the only road for 8 kms was a highway with only cement gutters most of the way, I knew I was in a bit of a predicament. I pedaled in the gutter when necessary but there the storm drains had slots that could swallow my tires. One time Blaze fell over. It was scary but all I could do was keep moving forward and hope I made it to the next exit safely. The curves were what scared me the most. There was only inches between me and many of the vehicles because they had nowhere to go. And can you believe there was no other road up through this area? I'd have taken it for sure.

Earlier in the day I road on the sidewalk/ bike path. And I came to STAIRS!! Really??





What I do is not easy!

But I managed to find a town reserve overlooking the ocean tonight. No one will care that I'm here;). Sure sounds wonderful to hear the ocean again. I'll sleep well.


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Wednesday, April 29, 2015

Testing photo upload

Camped in the abandoned garden.


Livin' the life!

BagLady

Pics "Cooma to Braidwood"










Sven, from Germany, and his bike after he fell into a big hole.









Sonja and the kids from the Jerangle Public School!









I love being in a classroom.









Blaze sleeping in the school library.









Beautiful back roads.








When animals are killed on the roads, they are counted and then marked with spray paint to note the counting...then left to remind drivers to be more careful.










Anzac Day parade.

















Dads with the strollers!









Celebrating.









Commemorating.



Livin' the life!

BagLady


Cooma to Braidswood

April 25, 2015
100th Anniversary of Anzac Day
Braidwood, NSW, AU

I finally rode out of Cooma last Tuesday. This is Saturday. I'm about 130 kms down the road. Not very far, I know. Weather has been a bit of an issue: rain. The first day I had already made plans with Sonja, the teacher of the one room school in Jerangle, to meet up with her that first night and stay at the school. I had met her at the Nordic Center in Perisher when I was up there with Adrian, and we felt like kindred spirits. I had called her because I wanted to cycle the dirt road through Jerangle and I wanted to get an idea of the condition. She offered to pick me up. Yippee.

The next day was rainy, so after talking to the kids about my bike and getting a break in the weather to let each one give it a try, I opted to stay out and play in the classroom for the day. Good idea! Because being with kids is always fun...and it rained all day. So after a second night at the school, I pedaled north through a state forest. I love the back roads. So much quieter. Beautiful scenery. Slow going. "Do you know where you're going?" Why is everyone asking me that? "This road is very dangerous." Similar sentiments keep getting repeated. But the roads are great. And the drivers kind. All except for this Australian thing for blasting the horn when they pass my tent on the side of the road in the middle of the night. Do you think you're being cute?? That's never happened before here. The other night I think he honked coming and going. The woodland floor is so rough with gum tree bark and bristly brush that I often have to camp on the mown edges of the road. So I guess I'm pretty obvious. The other morning I heard a car back up...I guess to check out my bike.

I made it to Braidwood in time for Anzac Day that commemorates the invasion into Gallipoli of the Australian and New Zealand combined forces. It's a spirit of honor that lives on today. I did not rise for the service at dawn although I did stick my head out of my tent:). I stayed around for the parade and service at the park. Don't ask me the facts. Not my forte. But the strength of this militia that was not a professional army was pretty amazing.

The weather this morning was beautiful for the events but I had read that thunderstorms were coming this afternoon. I had my supplies gathered for the next 120 kms through the mountains and water for the night, so I cycled out. When I stopped for lunch I was particularly moved by the feeling of the moment and wrote this:

No Words

I stand here in the noisy silence wanting to somehow soak up the feeling that no words can describe, no picture can capture. All alone and yet not. Human and yet not. Just one small piece in this vast universe. I see grey stormy clouds, grasslands over rolling hills, trees spotted here and there. Every now and then a car breaks the "silence" roaring down the road behind me. But oh the chatter of the birds fills the void. They are ever present. Musical. My molecules feel one with everything and my body feels non-existent. I am here. I am not here. I love this feeling. Yikes! That's thunder! Is that storm coming this way? Maybe I'd better stop being poetic and get real...and think about shelter! Now I'm here and I am human and there's things I need to do. The moment has passed...for now. But I know it will come again...and often....


I cycled down the hill as the rain came, gently at first, then heavier. The cows and horses had all found shelter under trees. This looks like it's going to be bad. There's an old lane. Wonder what's down there. An overgrown garden and a locked old, unlived in house. Think I'll camp here. Yes, I know. It's only 1 pm but that thunder sounds ominous. Quit while your ahead. So I've spent a rainy, stormy afternoon with soggy clothes strung about, all snuggled in my sleeping bag. It's getting cold. Probably low 50's. Sleeping and reading. And writing. And eating:). This food has to last me a few days. And since it's raining, it will be a cold dinner tonight. So much for the fresh tomato sauce over pasta I had planned:(. But the leftover fried tofu and sautéed spinach was delicious for lunch.

Let me share another writing I did the other day:

Sometimes

Sometimes I tire of the setting up
Sometimes I tire of the packing up
Sometimes I tire of so few things to do during the long evenings in my tent
And sometimes I tire of eating the same foods


But I never tire of seeing the misty mountains
And I never tire of feeling the breezes blow across my body
And I never tire of seeing the sunsets (I rarely see a sunrise:))
And I never tire of hearing the birds chorus.
And I never tire of feeling the sun's warmth and light break through on a gray chilly day.

Sometimes I tire of pushing the pedals round

But I never tire of the magic of living outside, of not knowing where I'll sleep each night, of the unknown that each day brings.

Nope.

Never tire of that!

(And I never tire of the beeps, the waves, and the thumbs up!)

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Pics in Cooma




Learning to fence.



Bad ass cop cars!



Earning my keep at Nordic Ski Center.



Mt. Kuscioszko, the highest point in Australia.



My Warmshowers host, Adrian Blake, and me.




Trying to figure out why I'm sick.



Coffee with the local bike club.



Recuperating.



Mountain biking.

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman