By a stream, in the forest, northeast Tasmania, Australia
Hot, hilly, and happy...now that I'm done for the day. That makes two really tough days in a row. Only went 30 kms yesterday and 26 today. Many folks can walk that In a day! Does that give you an idea of how hilly and challenging these gravel roads are? At this rate I'll need an extra month to circle Tasmania. Hopefully it will get easier after I reach the east coast and head south. But not likely:).
And since they're just going into summer, are in a drought, and temps are already in the 30's, I probably should get used to the heat. And this is the coolest place to be in OZ in the summer?!?! It's not so much the temps as the burn of the sun. This morning, as a was departing around 9 am, the sun was searing my skin and the umbrella was already up. And it hurt each and every time I stepped into it from the shade of the umbrella, trees, or tarps over a picnic table. Ouch! Sssssss!!!! That's part of what slows me down. I get so hot even under the umbrella and especially when I'm climbing the hills, that I pull up on every spot of shade on the road and try to cool down. I can't believe the heat pouring off the top of my head! Pedal. Stop. Pedal. Stop. Does make for slow going.
Yesterday I missed a turn and climbed 2.5 kms up a hill I didn't need to go up:(. On gravel. I only found my error when trying checked Google maps to see how far to the next town. Go back?!? Really?!? That far?!?! Check my other app which usually navigates me but often turns itself off and I never know if it's still on or not. Yup. Missed my turn:(((. So I turn around and go down...down...down. Boy, I'd hate to climb this hill! Oh, ya! You already did! They never seem as steep going up as they do going down, thank goodness!!
(An aside...chuckle. I've been really frustrated lately with autocorrect and I have to read carefully what it does. Case in point just now. I mis-typed: Goback...autocorrect offered: "Goback"...Go suck...Gobs know! Really?!? Why not "Go back", with the space I omitted? So autocorrect has a foul mouth, too! Go suck? I would never say that! And what is Gobs know? Just had to share my evening entertainment!)
So I'm spending New Year's Eve in the best place on the planet: by a babbling brook, deep in the forest, in my tent, in Tasmania! Today as I was pedaling along (before the gravel road turned to boulder gravel and pissed me off) and I was grinning from ear to ear. So happy. Must be the endorphins:)
All gravel is not the same. Another good blog title. And today was nearly the worst. Deep sand is the worst and impossible to travel on. Today was the rocks the use for paving a road only it was thrown on a bitumen road loose without the tar. Thank goodness much of it had already been pushed to the side of the road so I rocked and rolled my way along over the large stones being tossed like a boat on rough water. Down hill was fun. Not. Thought I was going to dump over especially since the sides of the road and the curves are banked so severely. I take my own breath away!
Like I said, Tassie's in a drought. Normally she would be lush and green now. But she's the color of straw unless they've watered the paddocks or crops. It would be so beautiful all green. I picked a bad summer to come. Oh well.
I'm trying to connect with my replacement air mattress in the next town. This is the 4th warranty replacement since August. A store in Brisbane ...K2 Base Camp... (I purchased it in NZ) has been the best support a girl could ask for! Every time I email Bill with my woes of a burst channel he gets the replacement out to me. ExPed has been good too, but the same problem continues to happen. So now I'm getting a Sea to Summit mattress and I'll keep my fingers crossed that I like it. Haven't liked some that I've seen. Too noisy. So we'll see. Back to meeting up with my air mattress. Bill sent it express on Tuesday. But I found out today that both Thursday AND Friday are public holidays. And the post office is closed Saturday AND Sunday in St. Helens. Don't know if the package will even move those 4 days. Monday? Maybe? I'm only a day and a half away so I need to stay here an extra day...in this lovely spot...or head to the coast and the beach north of St. Helens. Hard to decide. Suppose to be cooler tomorrow. Only 25*. I'll see how my hangover is in the morning:))
Ok, typing on my iPad is getting tiring. Too heavy to hold. Maybe tomorrow I'll add some pics. But for tonight, I'm done! Goodnight. And Happy New Year!!!
January 1, 2016
Same spot by the brook...
My wallaby trail to the river.
My beach:)
My rapids. They're small but they're all mine.
It's so dark when I turn off my headlamp. I love the darkness. Then as I lie there, and my eyes adjust, I can see stars twinkling through the tall trees over my head. I have no fear of the dark or the night. I feel safest in the woods, all alone. The other night I had my first animal visitor to my tent. I'd thrown done rotten apricots off in the bush and he'd found them. He wasn't too scared of me. I sat up and looked at him the second or third time he returned, and he sat back on his haunches and stared at me too. I'm sure he was trying to figure out what was happening in his neighborhood. It might have been a Tasmanian devil. The size and coloring was right. But no white chest stripe. I don't know if they all have that. And he was persistent. I pulled my food pannier into the tent. Don't need him gnawing on that. Of course, I don't need him gnawing on my tent either! When I clapped and yelled at him, he only went a little ways away. I can't stay awake all night either. Oh well. Maybe I'll hear him if he starts gnawing. Sure hope so. I went back to sleep (as I easily can do...unless I'm having a dose of insomnia) and heard nothing more. I googled Tasmanian mammals and couldn't find exactly what I've been seeing on the side of the road. (And there's lots of road kill here! The animals just aren't as big as the roos in the outback. The smell's the same though.)
Taking the day off. Perfect little spot tucked in off the road. I can see the drivers of the few cars that went by yesterday and no one notices me:). So funny. ( just then I typed "funny"...I saw it was right...and autocorrect changed it to "gunny"...what's going on?!?!?).
I decided this last night. Then don't ya know, it's cloudy and cool today. Here I have this cold stream, nice on a hot day, and it's a perfect day for.....biking! I'll just enjoy.
Done some knitting. (Ya, for those who don't know or remember...I'm sure I've mentioned it...I have a knitting project with me. Socks. Just the right size project to carry, right? I started them when I started pedaling Australia 10 months ago and I finished the first one on Christmas. I've been busy! And it's not been busy knitting:). But I'm determined to finish the second one here in Tassie. So I have to knit every day. Some days more than others. Today's a "more" day!).
Done some reading. I just finished "Turn Right at Machu Picchu" by Mark Adams. I think it's a better read AFTER you've been there. The only before reason would be going to see some of the other sites mentioned in the book. I highly suggest it to those who've been there...Avery...Kevin... I don't have a bucket list and there are few places I long to visit, especially touristy places, but that's one place that calls to me. I love ancient sites. I'm like a cat in old buildings. I want to just roll up against their walls for some odd reason. This leads me to this odd place I'm arriving at, a place where I struggle with language. Words leave me short. Something deeper is happening and I can't find words to describe the sensations. It's like putting it into words cheapens the experience. That may be why I'm struggling keeping up my blog. I live in the moment. Each and every day. Planning is a struggle because it's thinking about the future. Writing is a struggle because it's thinking about the past. I'm here. I'm now. Nothing else matters. I'm either cold or hot, wet or dry, happy or struggling, hungry or fed. My life is simple. Down to basics. I've even simplified my eating. Not much variety. Lots of fruits and veggies. Few words. Lots of emotions. All positive. Even on a hot day, on terrible gravel, pedaling along at 4 kms/hour, I was happy. Taking my time. Moving forward. I'll get there. I always do. And yesterday, on this dusty gravel road with no cars, scorching sun, lots of steep hills, what comes along?...a guy with a cold drink for me!! Cordial. Is it alcohol, asks I. Oh, ya, fruit syrup mixed with ice water...yummy! Who says there aren't miracles?!? Nobody bikes this road, he says. I can see why!
I watch the birds. I listen to the birds. I wonder what it's like to be a bird. Do we really understand animal behavior? I think it's a guess...and we probably guessed wrong, because it's based on our experiences. Their world is not our world. I watch ants. They totally fascinate me. Do they know where they're going? What's their world like? There are a lot of ants in Australia...a lot!! And all sizes! I think I've written that before. Deja vu. Am I repeating myself? I sometimes don't know if I've just thought about writing something or actually written it. I apologize if I'm repeating myself. Old age is hell! The alternative is worse!
There are wonderful bird sounds this morning. I wish I had a birder here with me to identify them. But then I wonder why do I need to identify anything? Can't I enjoy them, notice the differing calls, the times of day they tweet, without knowing the name we gave them? They don't know their names, why should I? Just more words.
I like a "do nothing" day. It something you need to travel alone to have. I don't think 2 people together can really have a do nothing day, although April and I had a few. Christmas last year was one. We spent it at the coast of NZ on a cliff overlooking a beach with an enormous sea lion parked on it. And we made sculptures out of dried seaweed. And I wished all day for Christmas cookies...and they arrived about 5 pm with folks who lived up the hill. Special day. Thanks for sharing it with me, April. Miss you! She's got a beau now so I probably won't see her back on tour with me:(. Isn't that always the way with a good girlfriend?
I'm watching the wind rustling the trees. Wind fascinates me too. Most of nature does. How it comes in bursts. And whips around. How it keeps me cool on hot days but can halt my progress when it's too strong. It can be soothing and gentle or so strong I can't get the tent up without a lot of effort. It once flipped my tent full of gear in NZ. Today it's gentle. Soothing. The branches waving. Sometimes more. Sometimes less. Like being rocked by momma.
I just figured out something else. When I write, I'm not alone. You all are here with me. I'm talking to you. When I stop writing and close my iPad, I'm alone in the woods again. And I like being alone. Not having to "talk". So a writer who goes to the woods to be alone and write, is not really alone. Hmmm?
I'll finish this later. Off to do more stuff not involving words...well, maybe reading...
January 2nd...Saturday 8:30 am
I'm staying put a second day. Good thing I carry enough food to do this. It's such a sweet spot. I can't get my package at the Post Office until Monday anyways, so why not. I don't make these decisions easily. I always scold guess myself. Don't know what I really want to do. It's always been that way with decisions that don't pull me strongly on way or the other. I need a dart system. Sometimes I try on one decision for awhile and see how it feels. Then I try another. Looking for a pull in one direction. That's why when I do know what I want to do, or buy, or eat it's such a treat to me. Because I struggle with decisions often not having a preference one way or another. Too flexible I guess.
Yesterday I whiled away the day. Did some laundry, especially my sweaty bike clothes. I put water from the stream in a plastic bag with done liquid coal and swirled one article at a time. Then I did a rinse cycle and hung them on a line strung between some trees. I use little white plastic bread wrapper clips for clothes pins. (As a little girl I loved playing house in the woods...now I live that way!). I did a lot of reading. I'm reading "The Time Traveler's Wife" by Audrey Niffenegger. Quite a confusing story, but it has my attention. I get my books from cafes or hostels or op shops (thrift stores). So I read a wide variety of stuff. Always like to have a book with me. I have Kindle on my phone and sometimes read a book on it but that uses up power, a very valuable resource, and I don't like the feel...somethings lost. All books look alike on it. No variety of font, weight, etc. Maybe a real Kindle would be different. But ya can't pick up cheap books for it at an op shop. I like cheap!
I also discovered yesterday that I'd misread my sock pattern and had to rip out the whole cuff:( The correct pattern will go a bit faster, that's the good news. But my arthritis can only stand to do 4 rows at a time before my thumb is throbbing. I wonder how much longer I'll be able to keep knitting. The basal joint syndrome I have is causing both thumbs to roll inward quite a bit. I know there's surgery for it. In time. When it's worse. And I'm "home". For now I just try not to use them too much. And on the bike they can pretty much rest all day, except for holding the brakes on a down hill.
I painted yesterday. Haven't done much of that these last 2 years. I need lessons with watercolor...or more practice;) Its funny how I don't really like what I've done until I put the black ink sketching in and then I feel this fondness that it really looks like something and I'm surprised it came from me. I often have areas I would like to redo, but that's not an option, so I learn to live with imperfections...a good lesson. Let go. It just doesn't matter. A lesson my daughter, Dana has taught me. In fact when I say it, I hear her voice.
Whoa, that brought a flush of tears. I miss my girls so much. Some more letting go. When they were little I had them around but not enough time. Now I have the time and their grown and living their own lives. And don't need me around. Best thing I can do for them is live my own life. But I miss having them in my every day life, hearing about the little things, seeing them, hugging them. Soon. I'll be "home" this year and get to spend some time with them. Being a mom is all about letting go, from the time we give birth...doesn't make it easy, though. People ask me if my daughters miss me being gone so much. I don't think so...they've never said so. I raised them to stand on their own two feet and there doing that too well:))
Okay, had my cry...cleanses the soul, to quote Dana again. I guess the loneliness does get to me sometimes. It's not really loneliness as a lack of a deep connection in my life. I have friends all over the world now and they've enriched me in so so many ways...far beyond anything I could have ever imagined. Does a close connection require a physical presence? That's the new age relationships I'm exploring. I can't physically be with these friends. Many I will never see again...and that pains my heart. So we exchange our energies through the internet, either email, or Facebook. And without that, this form of living would be ever so lonely. And I do have one person in my life that keeps close track of me and I know he would fly to rescue me anywhere in the world, should I need him, and that comforts me. My Rock. He's got my back. And I thank him for that! (Best Ex Ever!)
Oh Tasmania! You don't want to hear about my Torments...you want to know what Tasmania's like. Well, I'm going to go make some coffee, bundle up (cuz it's only about 15 C out there) and sit down by the stream and ponder my navel. I'll get back to ya later:)
2:45 pm
Just got back from a bush walk or I should say, bushwhack. The only trails around where I'm camped have been made by wallabies, little kangaroos. So there's a definite trail but for midgets! The brush from about waist high upward had to be hacked away. And going up the hill was easy. Lots of trails to follow. Looked like they'd had a party up there. But coming back down...which trail did I come up? Was on the wrong one, but generally knew where I was. I still have a great sense of direction, and besides, I could see the glow of the blonde sandy road in the distance. I don't know how pioneers whacked through this bush.
Tasmania has lots of agricultural land that I've seen so far. Cows, sheep, and lots of horses. Fields of hay bales, those big round ones. And crops. Other than the poppies, I haven't a clue what's growing. And then there's State Forest land, like where I am now. And I believe there's quite a large area of these forests from what I can tell on the map. They also have quite a number of national parks here, hither and yon. I was able to get a 2 month pass for $30. The lady sweetly extended by a week when I told her I wouldn't be off the island until then. Heck, I'm traveling by bike. It's not like I'll abuse the privilege. I wouldn't even get to my first park for 10 days from when she issued it. I met a DPaW (Dept of Parks and Wildlife) Ranger at the market in Launceston. He wants feedback on my National Park experience from a cyclists perspective. His job is to improve the cycle touring experience. Glad to help.
Spent the morning down on my beach by my stream knitting, reading, writing in my handwritten journal (so I don't forget how to write...I'm afraid I may have forgotten how to drive:)). Did a bit of nude sunbathing too. I think nudity and the wilderness go hand in hand. (Was going to insert nude selfie, but out of respect for my daughters, I chose not to...)
When I carried all my stuff back up, my knitting got caught on a branch. I gently unhooked it. But later realized one of these tiny bamboo needles had gotten pulled out. Oh no! I probably stepped on it and broke it. I broke one already, but the pack had an extra. I can't lose this one. So back I go, into the brushes (think wallaby trail) to look. Talk about looking for a needle in a haystack. This was that literally! I was on my hands and knees rummaging through the leaf matter, trying to watch every place I stepped. I'm not the most observant person. I had to keep telling myself to stay focused. Look harder. All the way down the trail. All over the beach. All over my little campsite. Nothing. This doesn't make me happy. But it has to be here. Between the beach and the tent. Take all afternoon if you must. You have to find it. Down on hands and knees again. Slowly. To the left, to the right. Finally I just sat down under the snafu bush that caught the yarn ball earlier. It's got to be HERE. Look. Slowly. Carefully. Methodically. You can do it. And there it was! Up close to the trunk tucked against a broken twig. YES! Oh, happy days! Now go have some lunch.
Making toast.
Wallaby trails.
More wallaby trails. Can you spot them?
Hard to get low enough to follow the wallaby trails:)
Great start to a fabulous new year, don't ya think?
Livin' the dream!
BagLady
