St Helens

January 7th, 2016
Little Beach, East Coast, Tasmania, AU

After 3 nights on my brook, I packed up and continued eastward on gravel roads all the way to the coast. Sure glad someone had mentioned I could take this fire road that cut over because it wasn't on Google Maps although the it was on Komoot, my new app I use for touring. It gives me profiles and I can drop way points telling it what route I want to take. Also when it's giving voice navigation, after a turn it tells me how long I'll be on the new road before I turn again. Love that. Just wish it would tell me during a tour I'm following, how much distance remains until I reach my destination. I don't know why that's lacking. So this day was Sunday and my new air mat was expected at the post office in the morning. I decided I'd continue on into St Helens and be a good girl and go to the campground. That way I could charge up all my devices and my power bank and get a shower (not that I needed it:)). So after stopping at the grocery store to get some dipper, I cycled through town and up the hill to the campground. $44 discounted to $35 for an unpowered site and 1 person? Are you kidding me?!?!? No thank you. I'll find some place to bush camp. And there were showers and power at the toilet block near the pier. All for free!

Check out where I got to sleep that night. Better then any campground!!









It was just outside of town up the lagoon. I found it on my way to the sports oval, always a good camping spot. So sweet!!

And then the next two days were so full of serendipity that i still get goosebumps thinking about it.

In the morning, I had a list of town chores to get done. One of them was to drop off a couple of books at an op shop and get a new one. I was camped near an op shop, but as I cycled by I heard someone say it was closed. So I continued down the street towards the center of town. There's another one, so I pull up onto the sidewalk. As I'm getting off my trike a gentleman comes over to chat with me. Turns out he's a trike rider! He's thrilled to hear of my adventure and asks when I'm leaving town. Today. Oh:( I'd love to have you come stay with me. At this point his girlfriend joins the conversation. As we continue to talk, I'm thinking, why not? Where am I going in such a hurry. When someone is eager to listen, I'm eager to talk. Besides, what were the chances of us meeting on the street at that moment? So I make plans to go there after my chores. It's up a hill. No worries. I'm tough. See ya later. Then I get my new mat, a gas canister, another power bank, etc. and stop for a coffee. And there I meet Michelle and Noah and dad (can't remember his name). Noah's about 10 and a great little talker. I share with them my belief about how good most people are in this world.

Then off I go to Robert and Vickie's place. When the street is named View Street, you know there's a reason! What a hill, but what a view!







And these folks are artists in fact Robert used to teach art at a University and there was art in all media forms throughout the house. But I love his self portrait the most! (I will post photo separately if I can...)
Not a good photo, sorry.

And Vickie made Spanakopita, my favorite Greek dish, for dinner with a trike on it:)(I will try and post photo separately...having upload issues...so what's new?!?!?)

I even got up my nerve to show them my drawings, as beginnerish as they are. They were so kind, but Robert also gave me some good advice to think about as I go forward with my art. I took notes, Robert. Your words did not fall on deaf ears:)

Robert was recently in a serious, nearly fatal, traffic accident so unable to ride with me. But Blaze ground a new boyfriend!!







Ok, I said two days of serendipity, so I'll continue. I cycled back down the hill on Tuesday after great conversations, a shower, clothes washed, and bags restocked with salt, vinegar, sugar, and freshly made apricot jam. (I failed to mention the result baked bread and freshly made yogurt...that's when I get homesick...I miss doing those domestic things...ahhhhh...thank you!)

So I went to the IGA for done grub: that $50 worth...one plastic bag...expensive, huh? It's got veggies, fruit, bread, peanut butter, butter, yogurt, and chocolate.



And then I hemmed and hawed about whether I'd go back up the street to the pharmacy for ibuprofen. I was getting low and hate to be without. Ya never know. So I did. Then hopped on Blaze and headed south out of town when this lady jumps out at me yelling " Do you know Paul Carr?" I had to think for a minute. I think I met him in a small town in the Outback one day months ago. We're Facebook friends do he'd sent me a note to say his in-laws were tea ruling around fine here. He'd tell them to look out for me. Sure, like we'd ever connect. This was them!!!! Tony and Helen! Can you believe the found me. And they weren't looking either. We could have do easily mussed each other. What if I hadn't gone for ibuprofen? What if they had been in a store when I passed? Creepy, huh? What fun folks? We hit it off instantly. So I suggested we get a coffee and chat. I found out they were camped in there caravan in a park about 20 kms south. My plan was to cycle up into the forest again and camp before this town. I said I'd call them in the morning, maybe we could meet up again.

So off to the woods I went. I love the forest roads. They take me longer, but they are so much quieter and so much more enjoyable. I was going to be back on shoulderless A3 soon enough. The next day on my way out of the forest, Blaze was dropping her chain off the back to the inside. I adjusted the limit screw as much as I could and couldn't stop it. I had to set the shifter and the chain off by one click and then remember not to push it all the way to the last click and everything worked okay on the low end...on the high end it now was stopping in the third to last gear. Not optimum. I wonder if Tony and Helen would be able to take me back to St Helens to have this dereilleur looked at. I've learned to at least ask the question. They can always say No. And if I can't get it adjusted I could ride it like I'd set it up. Next bike shop was probably Hobart, 200 kms away.

I called. They said Yes. Thank you!! So they picked me up by the bridge and back to town we went. And Mathew, owner of the new cycle shop Break O'Day Cycles, was ever so helpful in getting the dereilleur re-aligned and working smoothly. That's it. Before my next tour I'm getting a Rohloff hub...no if, ands or buts about it! This dereilleur rides just too low and hits every rock I encounter. I he's nothing but great things about them. I want one!!

And then Tony and Helen took me back to their place where we yakked some more. Helen loves hiking! And has a special love for Mt Everest although she's never been. I loved sharing my stories about when Bluebearee, Apple Pie and I trekked there.

Oh, and Michelle and Noah? Ya, I ran into them again the next day too on my way out of town! So kind! And giving!! Have fun in Japan you guys!! And thanks for the gifts!




Their bears wanted to take a spin.


Thanks Helen and Tony, for all the kindness and especially the laughs!!!

So I took off just after noon and pedaled further south until I found this free camping spot on the beach. Lots of various vehicles here but not too crowded. Have decided to stay an extra day and get my blog updated, get some sun (like I don't get enough)



Hard to time a jump when your self timer doesn't clue you in to when it's finishing:) Gotta love a biker tan!!




and do some painting...gotta go get they done. Robert told me to paint every day and write a poem to go with it. If I did it once a week I'd be way ahead of what I'm doing;)




From my New Years campsite:)). Grandma Moses had to start somewhere!!


Livin' the dream!

BagLady

Happy New Year from Tasmania!

New Year's Eve, 2015
By a stream, in the forest, northeast Tasmania, Australia

Hot, hilly, and happy...now that I'm done for the day. That makes two really tough days in a row. Only went 30 kms yesterday and 26 today. Many folks can walk that In a day! Does that give you an idea of how hilly and challenging these gravel roads are? At this rate I'll need an extra month to circle Tasmania. Hopefully it will get easier after I reach the east coast and head south. But not likely:).



And since they're just going into summer, are in a drought, and temps are already in the 30's, I probably should get used to the heat. And this is the coolest place to be in OZ in the summer?!?! It's not so much the temps as the burn of the sun. This morning, as a was departing around 9 am, the sun was searing my skin and the umbrella was already up. And it hurt each and every time I stepped into it from the shade of the umbrella, trees, or tarps over a picnic table. Ouch! Sssssss!!!! That's part of what slows me down. I get so hot even under the umbrella and especially when I'm climbing the hills, that I pull up on every spot of shade on the road and try to cool down. I can't believe the heat pouring off the top of my head! Pedal. Stop. Pedal. Stop. Does make for slow going.

Yesterday I missed a turn and climbed 2.5 kms up a hill I didn't need to go up:(. On gravel. I only found my error when trying checked Google maps to see how far to the next town. Go back?!? Really?!? That far?!?! Check my other app which usually navigates me but often turns itself off and I never know if it's still on or not. Yup. Missed my turn:(((. So I turn around and go down...down...down. Boy, I'd hate to climb this hill! Oh, ya! You already did! They never seem as steep going up as they do going down, thank goodness!!

(An aside...chuckle. I've been really frustrated lately with autocorrect and I have to read carefully what it does. Case in point just now. I mis-typed: Goback...autocorrect offered: "Goback"...Go suck...Gobs know! Really?!? Why not "Go back", with the space I omitted? So autocorrect has a foul mouth, too! Go suck? I would never say that! And what is Gobs know? Just had to share my evening entertainment!)

So I'm spending New Year's Eve in the best place on the planet: by a babbling brook, deep in the forest, in my tent, in Tasmania! Today as I was pedaling along (before the gravel road turned to boulder gravel and pissed me off) and I was grinning from ear to ear. So happy. Must be the endorphins:)

All gravel is not the same. Another good blog title. And today was nearly the worst. Deep sand is the worst and impossible to travel on. Today was the rocks the use for paving a road only it was thrown on a bitumen road loose without the tar. Thank goodness much of it had already been pushed to the side of the road so I rocked and rolled my way along over the large stones being tossed like a boat on rough water. Down hill was fun. Not. Thought I was going to dump over especially since the sides of the road and the curves are banked so severely. I take my own breath away!

Like I said, Tassie's in a drought. Normally she would be lush and green now. But she's the color of straw unless they've watered the paddocks or crops. It would be so beautiful all green. I picked a bad summer to come. Oh well.



I'm trying to connect with my replacement air mattress in the next town. This is the 4th warranty replacement since August. A store in Brisbane ...K2 Base Camp... (I purchased it in NZ) has been the best support a girl could ask for! Every time I email Bill with my woes of a burst channel he gets the replacement out to me. ExPed has been good too, but the same problem continues to happen. So now I'm getting a Sea to Summit mattress and I'll keep my fingers crossed that I like it. Haven't liked some that I've seen. Too noisy. So we'll see. Back to meeting up with my air mattress. Bill sent it express on Tuesday. But I found out today that both Thursday AND Friday are public holidays. And the post office is closed Saturday AND Sunday in St. Helens. Don't know if the package will even move those 4 days. Monday? Maybe? I'm only a day and a half away so I need to stay here an extra day...in this lovely spot...or head to the coast and the beach north of St. Helens. Hard to decide. Suppose to be cooler tomorrow. Only 25*. I'll see how my hangover is in the morning:))

Ok, typing on my iPad is getting tiring. Too heavy to hold. Maybe tomorrow I'll add some pics. But for tonight, I'm done! Goodnight. And Happy New Year!!!

January 1, 2016
Same spot by the brook...




My wallaby trail to the river.



My beach:)



My rapids. They're small but they're all mine.

It's so dark when I turn off my headlamp. I love the darkness. Then as I lie there, and my eyes adjust, I can see stars twinkling through the tall trees over my head. I have no fear of the dark or the night. I feel safest in the woods, all alone. The other night I had my first animal visitor to my tent. I'd thrown done rotten apricots off in the bush and he'd found them. He wasn't too scared of me. I sat up and looked at him the second or third time he returned, and he sat back on his haunches and stared at me too. I'm sure he was trying to figure out what was happening in his neighborhood. It might have been a Tasmanian devil. The size and coloring was right. But no white chest stripe. I don't know if they all have that. And he was persistent. I pulled my food pannier into the tent. Don't need him gnawing on that. Of course, I don't need him gnawing on my tent either! When I clapped and yelled at him, he only went a little ways away. I can't stay awake all night either. Oh well. Maybe I'll hear him if he starts gnawing. Sure hope so. I went back to sleep (as I easily can do...unless I'm having a dose of insomnia) and heard nothing more. I googled Tasmanian mammals and couldn't find exactly what I've been seeing on the side of the road. (And there's lots of road kill here! The animals just aren't as big as the roos in the outback. The smell's the same though.)

Taking the day off. Perfect little spot tucked in off the road. I can see the drivers of the few cars that went by yesterday and no one notices me:). So funny. ( just then I typed "funny"...I saw it was right...and autocorrect changed it to "gunny"...what's going on?!?!?).

I decided this last night. Then don't ya know, it's cloudy and cool today. Here I have this cold stream, nice on a hot day, and it's a perfect day for.....biking! I'll just enjoy.

Done some knitting. (Ya, for those who don't know or remember...I'm sure I've mentioned it...I have a knitting project with me. Socks. Just the right size project to carry, right? I started them when I started pedaling Australia 10 months ago and I finished the first one on Christmas. I've been busy! And it's not been busy knitting:). But I'm determined to finish the second one here in Tassie. So I have to knit every day. Some days more than others. Today's a "more" day!).

Done some reading. I just finished "Turn Right at Machu Picchu" by Mark Adams. I think it's a better read AFTER you've been there. The only before reason would be going to see some of the other sites mentioned in the book. I highly suggest it to those who've been there...Avery...Kevin... I don't have a bucket list and there are few places I long to visit, especially touristy places, but that's one place that calls to me. I love ancient sites. I'm like a cat in old buildings. I want to just roll up against their walls for some odd reason. This leads me to this odd place I'm arriving at, a place where I struggle with language. Words leave me short. Something deeper is happening and I can't find words to describe the sensations. It's like putting it into words cheapens the experience. That may be why I'm struggling keeping up my blog. I live in the moment. Each and every day. Planning is a struggle because it's thinking about the future. Writing is a struggle because it's thinking about the past. I'm here. I'm now. Nothing else matters. I'm either cold or hot, wet or dry, happy or struggling, hungry or fed. My life is simple. Down to basics. I've even simplified my eating. Not much variety. Lots of fruits and veggies. Few words. Lots of emotions. All positive. Even on a hot day, on terrible gravel, pedaling along at 4 kms/hour, I was happy. Taking my time. Moving forward. I'll get there. I always do. And yesterday, on this dusty gravel road with no cars, scorching sun, lots of steep hills, what comes along?...a guy with a cold drink for me!! Cordial. Is it alcohol, asks I. Oh, ya, fruit syrup mixed with ice water...yummy! Who says there aren't miracles?!? Nobody bikes this road, he says. I can see why!

I watch the birds. I listen to the birds. I wonder what it's like to be a bird. Do we really understand animal behavior? I think it's a guess...and we probably guessed wrong, because it's based on our experiences. Their world is not our world. I watch ants. They totally fascinate me. Do they know where they're going? What's their world like? There are a lot of ants in Australia...a lot!! And all sizes! I think I've written that before. Deja vu. Am I repeating myself? I sometimes don't know if I've just thought about writing something or actually written it. I apologize if I'm repeating myself. Old age is hell! The alternative is worse!

There are wonderful bird sounds this morning. I wish I had a birder here with me to identify them. But then I wonder why do I need to identify anything? Can't I enjoy them, notice the differing calls, the times of day they tweet, without knowing the name we gave them? They don't know their names, why should I? Just more words.

I like a "do nothing" day. It something you need to travel alone to have. I don't think 2 people together can really have a do nothing day, although April and I had a few. Christmas last year was one. We spent it at the coast of NZ on a cliff overlooking a beach with an enormous sea lion parked on it. And we made sculptures out of dried seaweed. And I wished all day for Christmas cookies...and they arrived about 5 pm with folks who lived up the hill. Special day. Thanks for sharing it with me, April. Miss you! She's got a beau now so I probably won't see her back on tour with me:(. Isn't that always the way with a good girlfriend?

I'm watching the wind rustling the trees. Wind fascinates me too. Most of nature does. How it comes in bursts. And whips around. How it keeps me cool on hot days but can halt my progress when it's too strong. It can be soothing and gentle or so strong I can't get the tent up without a lot of effort. It once flipped my tent full of gear in NZ. Today it's gentle. Soothing. The branches waving. Sometimes more. Sometimes less. Like being rocked by momma.

I just figured out something else. When I write, I'm not alone. You all are here with me. I'm talking to you. When I stop writing and close my iPad, I'm alone in the woods again. And I like being alone. Not having to "talk". So a writer who goes to the woods to be alone and write, is not really alone. Hmmm?

I'll finish this later. Off to do more stuff not involving words...well, maybe reading...

January 2nd...Saturday 8:30 am

I'm staying put a second day. Good thing I carry enough food to do this. It's such a sweet spot. I can't get my package at the Post Office until Monday anyways, so why not. I don't make these decisions easily. I always scold guess myself. Don't know what I really want to do. It's always been that way with decisions that don't pull me strongly on way or the other. I need a dart system. Sometimes I try on one decision for awhile and see how it feels. Then I try another. Looking for a pull in one direction. That's why when I do know what I want to do, or buy, or eat it's such a treat to me. Because I struggle with decisions often not having a preference one way or another. Too flexible I guess.

Yesterday I whiled away the day. Did some laundry, especially my sweaty bike clothes. I put water from the stream in a plastic bag with done liquid coal and swirled one article at a time. Then I did a rinse cycle and hung them on a line strung between some trees. I use little white plastic bread wrapper clips for clothes pins. (As a little girl I loved playing house in the woods...now I live that way!). I did a lot of reading. I'm reading "The Time Traveler's Wife" by Audrey Niffenegger. Quite a confusing story, but it has my attention. I get my books from cafes or hostels or op shops (thrift stores). So I read a wide variety of stuff. Always like to have a book with me. I have Kindle on my phone and sometimes read a book on it but that uses up power, a very valuable resource, and I don't like the feel...somethings lost. All books look alike on it. No variety of font, weight, etc. Maybe a real Kindle would be different. But ya can't pick up cheap books for it at an op shop. I like cheap!

I also discovered yesterday that I'd misread my sock pattern and had to rip out the whole cuff:( The correct pattern will go a bit faster, that's the good news. But my arthritis can only stand to do 4 rows at a time before my thumb is throbbing. I wonder how much longer I'll be able to keep knitting. The basal joint syndrome I have is causing both thumbs to roll inward quite a bit. I know there's surgery for it. In time. When it's worse. And I'm "home". For now I just try not to use them too much. And on the bike they can pretty much rest all day, except for holding the brakes on a down hill.

I painted yesterday. Haven't done much of that these last 2 years. I need lessons with watercolor...or more practice;) Its funny how I don't really like what I've done until I put the black ink sketching in and then I feel this fondness that it really looks like something and I'm surprised it came from me. I often have areas I would like to redo, but that's not an option, so I learn to live with imperfections...a good lesson. Let go. It just doesn't matter. A lesson my daughter, Dana has taught me. In fact when I say it, I hear her voice.

Whoa, that brought a flush of tears. I miss my girls so much. Some more letting go. When they were little I had them around but not enough time. Now I have the time and their grown and living their own lives. And don't need me around. Best thing I can do for them is live my own life. But I miss having them in my every day life, hearing about the little things, seeing them, hugging them. Soon. I'll be "home" this year and get to spend some time with them. Being a mom is all about letting go, from the time we give birth...doesn't make it easy, though. People ask me if my daughters miss me being gone so much. I don't think so...they've never said so. I raised them to stand on their own two feet and there doing that too well:))

Okay, had my cry...cleanses the soul, to quote Dana again. I guess the loneliness does get to me sometimes. It's not really loneliness as a lack of a deep connection in my life. I have friends all over the world now and they've enriched me in so so many ways...far beyond anything I could have ever imagined. Does a close connection require a physical presence? That's the new age relationships I'm exploring. I can't physically be with these friends. Many I will never see again...and that pains my heart. So we exchange our energies through the internet, either email, or Facebook. And without that, this form of living would be ever so lonely. And I do have one person in my life that keeps close track of me and I know he would fly to rescue me anywhere in the world, should I need him, and that comforts me. My Rock. He's got my back. And I thank him for that! (Best Ex Ever!)

Oh Tasmania! You don't want to hear about my Torments...you want to know what Tasmania's like. Well, I'm going to go make some coffee, bundle up (cuz it's only about 15 C out there) and sit down by the stream and ponder my navel. I'll get back to ya later:)

2:45 pm

Just got back from a bush walk or I should say, bushwhack. The only trails around where I'm camped have been made by wallabies, little kangaroos. So there's a definite trail but for midgets! The brush from about waist high upward had to be hacked away. And going up the hill was easy. Lots of trails to follow. Looked like they'd had a party up there. But coming back down...which trail did I come up? Was on the wrong one, but generally knew where I was. I still have a great sense of direction, and besides, I could see the glow of the blonde sandy road in the distance. I don't know how pioneers whacked through this bush.

Tasmania has lots of agricultural land that I've seen so far. Cows, sheep, and lots of horses. Fields of hay bales, those big round ones. And crops. Other than the poppies, I haven't a clue what's growing. And then there's State Forest land, like where I am now. And I believe there's quite a large area of these forests from what I can tell on the map. They also have quite a number of national parks here, hither and yon. I was able to get a 2 month pass for $30. The lady sweetly extended by a week when I told her I wouldn't be off the island until then. Heck, I'm traveling by bike. It's not like I'll abuse the privilege. I wouldn't even get to my first park for 10 days from when she issued it. I met a DPaW (Dept of Parks and Wildlife) Ranger at the market in Launceston. He wants feedback on my National Park experience from a cyclists perspective. His job is to improve the cycle touring experience. Glad to help.

Spent the morning down on my beach by my stream knitting, reading, writing in my handwritten journal (so I don't forget how to write...I'm afraid I may have forgotten how to drive:)). Did a bit of nude sunbathing too. I think nudity and the wilderness go hand in hand. (Was going to insert nude selfie, but out of respect for my daughters, I chose not to...)

When I carried all my stuff back up, my knitting got caught on a branch. I gently unhooked it. But later realized one of these tiny bamboo needles had gotten pulled out. Oh no! I probably stepped on it and broke it. I broke one already, but the pack had an extra. I can't lose this one. So back I go, into the brushes (think wallaby trail) to look. Talk about looking for a needle in a haystack. This was that literally! I was on my hands and knees rummaging through the leaf matter, trying to watch every place I stepped. I'm not the most observant person. I had to keep telling myself to stay focused. Look harder. All the way down the trail. All over the beach. All over my little campsite. Nothing. This doesn't make me happy. But it has to be here. Between the beach and the tent. Take all afternoon if you must. You have to find it. Down on hands and knees again. Slowly. To the left, to the right. Finally I just sat down under the snafu bush that caught the yarn ball earlier. It's got to be HERE. Look. Slowly. Carefully. Methodically. You can do it. And there it was! Up close to the trunk tucked against a broken twig. YES! Oh, happy days! Now go have some lunch.


Making toast.



Wallaby trails.



More wallaby trails. Can you spot them?






Hard to get low enough to follow the wallaby trails:)

Great start to a fabulous new year, don't ya think?


Livin' the dream!

BagLady

The Holidays in Australia

December 28, 2015




When last I left you I was sitting on the side of the road into Perth with a broken bike awaiting Waugal. That morning after I wrote my previous blog, I went out to fiddle with the derailleur once more and I got it so it would stay in one gear. I thought I should try and ride into Perth and save Waugal the drive but it was a much later start than I liked to get 70 kms to my Karaleen's house where I was staying a few days. I called Waugal. "I got it fixed...sorta...and I could try riding into Perth", says I. "No, BagLady! Stay put! I'm coming to pick you up!" Ok, I will. I'm always trying to push through my problems, not wanting to inconvenience anyone. I'm sure it's a trait that serves me well on the road, but sometimes I just have to graciously accept assistance. It was good to know that I could mess with the derailleur and fix it if I'd had to. I've learned so much about the workings of my bike...as I've needed the info.

So Waugal picked me up. It was the first time we'd seen each other since we said goodbye in Albany at the bus station after 2 months together 24/7. It was good to see him again!

We took the bike directly to Just Bents, an ICE trike dealer. Craig works out of his garage. He thought he could straighten everything with a press he would borrow from a friend. I was nervous. I've had the derailleur not work well so often and the chain skips gears and drops off. It's a nightmare. And it was humming lately. And I wanted it humming again for the hills of Tasmania. Could this guy do the job? I had to trust that he could. I left Blaze with him to work his magic and he did! When we came back a few days later, she was running beautifully. I spent a good part of the afternoon getting tons of info and ideas about my bike. And he tightened this and adjusted that. I've got a lot of improv parts and pieces, some of which needed tinkering. Craig was my man! He's a thinker. I loved watching his brain work. And Blaze has been motoring along beautifully here in Tassie. I'm so grateful!

So after dropping off Blaze we went to Waugal's house to drop off my gear. I had a week before my flight to Tasmania and I wanted to spend a bit of it with Karaleen, a woman I met at a rest stop in the Outback. The plan was to stay with her 3 nights then come back to Waugal's for the rest of it. Then Waugal tells me his family is having a get together dinner at a Persian restaurant that evening and they'd love to see me again. And I wanted to see them. Again I contacted poor Karaleen and modified my plans. She was so understanding.

Well I'm not going to bore you with all the intimate details of my week in Perth but suffice to say I had a marvelous time. I had fish and chips with Karaleen at the beach watching the sunset. And a holiday lunch with the girls at a friend's house (who cooked vegetarian!). Went to her ex's gardens with her delightful grandkids who stayed over one night. And joined her and her friends for a Symphony in the Park on the esplanade downtown. Thanks Karaleen for such a great time packed full and full of fun!!


Craig doing some last minute repairs before I head out.



Symphony in the Park



Karaleen and me eating fish and chips while watching the sunset over the Indian Ocean (pic below)



Then I moved back to Waugal and Lisa's place where I was able to just rest and eat well, enjoying his beautiful home and gardens. We also ran a bunch of errands, toured King's Park and just enjoyed down time...something I desperately needed.



Waugal and Lisa wandering around King's Park



An enormous boab tree that was moved from Northern Territory to Perth. It's coming round!

I also went out to the harbor and dinner with a young couple, Cherrie and Paul, that I first met at the campground in Nannup when they were biking the Munda Biddi. And later when the found me on the road home and we caught up. They might do the Continental Divide Bike Trail in the States one day. I'll be their support vehicle:)

Back to today. I'm fried. Even with sunscreen on. The sun is so freaking strong here. I watch my legs turn red and there's nothing more I can do about it. And oh my god...the hills! Slow grind up. Over and over again. I biked from 10 am until 5 pm and went only 35 kms. I averaged 8.6 kms/hour. Ugh. I worked my tush off!! Rolling hills, for sure!! And dry paddocks. Yellow and crunchy. They're in a drought here. It's usually lush and green this time of year, I've been told. I'll have to imagine it:)








I don't know if I stuck to main roads if they'd be flatter. I just hate all the traffic. So I'm on back roads. Gravel roads sometimes. Oh well. All part of the adventure. Finding camp spots isn't that easy. Tonight there were paddocks and fences all along the road. Then I found some woods but they're on a hill...surprise...surprise! I managed to find a carved out flat spot that just fits my air mattress. The rest of the tent is up a bit but I'm flat and that's all that matters. Goodnight.

December 29th
North of Scottsdale, Tasmania
In the woods

Catching up: I flew out of Perth on a midnight flight to Melbourne connecting to Launceston. So with a late flight, only a 3.5 hour flight, then a 3 hour time difference...it was the shortest night ever! I don't handle lack of sleep well. I like to sleep. Didn't get any on the connection. But slept the hour over to Tasmania. So maybe 3-4 hours total. Then I had to assemble my bike and bike into town to my hosts' house. Up a big hill! I arrived. And crashed for the afternoon. I needed sleep. These were Warmshowers hosts Vicky and Malcolm. And it was the weekend before Christmas and before they left for the mainland for the holidays. I was so glad they let me stay. And better, they included me in the snacks and drinks that evening. Beautiful new modern house they had built with large glass doors that open into the deck. Great for a party! And Blaze was a hit with the kids.

I stayed 2 nights and then figured out a route that would give me a few days on the road before arriving at Wensley and Allan's place for Christmas. I hungered for my road life. Missed it after so many days sleeping indoors. It was only a days ride but I managed to make a big loop south then west then northeast to Beaconsfield and the Middletons. I met this couple on the side of the road in Queensland too and when they heard I'd be in Tasmania and close by, they invited me for Christmas. Isn't that wonderful?

I stayed for 5 nights.




Santa found me!


Finished sock number 1...only took 10 months!



Allan grilling Christmas Eve crackle.


Christmas dinner!





Saying goodbye to the Middletons. What a lovely Christmas is was!

Livin' the dream,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

From Nannup to Perth

December 9, 2015
70 Kms south of Perth, WA, Australia



I'm sitting in my tent on the side of the road. A closed, barricaded road section. Just off the main freeway into Perth. Right next to the railway track...which actually has trains....with load whistles...that luckily don't blow at night. One of the worst camping spots in all of Australia, I think. But as I was cycling the world's best cycle path, a freaking freeway, along side the freeway, but separate, finding optimum bush camping spots was getting challenging to say the least. This pull off looked promising, just not elegant. And if the deep sand hadn't bent my derailleur all whacky it would have been a good night. It had to be the sand. I didn't feel the bike hit anything. But after pushing it through a section, when I got back on, it wouldn't go. Big problem. I tried bending it back, but it was twisted so the guide wheels would not align properly. No tools to torque it with. Even if I could have gotten it to go in one gear in the rear, I would have been happy. Nope. Skipping all over the place. Oh well. I've learned to just deal with problems as they come. One foot in front of the other. Not a fun problem, but nothing that money won't fix. And so I called Waugal, my hiking buddy, and he's picking me up this morning. All will be fine. A little wrinkle is the derailleur hanger mount is also bent, needs replacing, and that may be unique to my trike. My bike shop back home, Bicycle Man in Alfred Station, NY, and Peter Stull, the owner, has offered to express ship me one if need be. What road support!!! He's been there when I've needed him. Love it!



But it's taken me a few weeks to get to Perth from Nannup. I've been taking my time, enjoying the sights and the people. First stop was the cutest town called Margaret River where I stayed 3 nights with a friend of an Aussie couple I met at a campground in Scotland. Don't ya love it?!?! She has a boarding kennel there and I camped in the yard as her book collection took over the house. All non-fiction on any topic you could think of. Amazing! And April included me in so many different things: a poetry class on sonnets (University for a Third Age...check it out), a vegan dinner at the Soup Kitchen (best meal in ages), an over 55 gym class (I felt so strong, but my upper body is out of shape and I over-stressed my back:)), the Eagle Heritage Center (so interesting learning about raptors of all kinds and seeing them hunt in free flight), a group hike and drone presentation, and went to the movies. Then she got some dog boarders:(. And one night of the barking and I had to find new accommodations. On the hike I met Lidia and she offered her dining room floor in her one bedroom apt. Ok! So I stayed 2 nights with her and did my errands in Margaret River including an organic farmer's market...yum!




This was so exciting. Owls are quite magnificent!!





Froggy Mouth Owl. The look like the branch their sitting on:)




And always a snake hanging around.




Oh, yes!

Next stop up to Dunsborough for yet another air mattress replacement to be picked up at the post office. Expend and K2 Base Camp store in Brisbane have been wonderful getting replacements to me. The mystery is why do the channels blow? The mats are still usable but awkward and uneven. This time I have Exped's Hyperlight. It's smaller than the Synmat UL, more body shaped and not as thick but takes up less room in the tent. I've got my fingers crossed!!

On the way to Dunsborough, I stopped into the Wardan Aboriginal Culture center. April had driven me up here when I was trying to find aboriginal artwork, but I didn't have a look around so I stopped in. It's a family operation, the parents having built it and now the children, Nina and Vivian are running it. Art gallery, museum, classes teaching indigenous skills like finding bush tucker (food), making tools, and throwing spears. For 60,000 years the indigenous people lived and thrived in this challenging land before white settles invaded and displaced them. There's so much knowledge of the land and the seasons to be gleamed from them. Don't lose it. I had a wonderful visit and left with lots of hugs and good wishes.




Then I went to Yallingup, a beach community, for a night at the campground and a swim and sun on the beach. This was my first time in my bathers here.


Gotta use the lingo. Hopefully in Tassie there will be more opportunities this summer. It felt wonderful. And every stop is so social it can get exhausting. At the campground I had a mom, her daughter, and the daughter's friend on one side...and a retired couple from Perth on the other. And we shared many chats in the few short hours. Lots of stories, too many to share. The bike, obviously is the attraction. Nope, never lonely.

On to Dunsborough, but not until I stopped on the way out of Yallingup for free range eggs and wood-fired bread. Yum! The plan in Dunsborough was originally to attend a beach bash. At the vegan dinner in Margaret River I met Lee, a young woman who lives in Dunsborough and teaches movement classes. She was hosting this beach bash and invited me to attend. Timing was the issue. It was still 4 days out. Wasn't going to work. But I did want to catch up with her so after getting my new air mattress at the list office, we met up at a cafe. She's a kindred spirit. A real light in this world. And I wished it would have worked out for me to stay. But I've learned sometimes you have to just enjoy the moment and the connection for the time that you have it.

Keep on pedaling. My plan was to hug the coast and the Geographe Bay around and up to Perth. A beautiful area. Busselton was bustling. A triathlon was happening on the weekend. Get in and get out. Too busy for me. Did manage to find some replacement clothes at an op shop. But letting go of the old faves that have been with me for-ever, is hard. Haven't done it yet, so I have too many items. I do think about why the throwing things out is so hard. I like my old clothes. They've served me well. Looked good, at least I thought so. We're mates. Seems cruel to just stuff them in a bin (garbage can). Sad too. Why? What is thus relationship we humans have with possessions? Why do we need to "own" things? I walk through a gallery and look. I enjoy it. But I'm also tugged with wanting to own the beauty. I can't so it's easy. But what if I could? What would owning give me?



The Western Australia Christmas Tree that blooms bright yellow this time of year.



One of those great wild camping spots I find mist every night. Isn't Spacey, my Big Sky Revolution 2 P tent, cute. I must say I'm ever so happy with my choice of "homes". Just crawling in at night and being able to leave the flaps open, not worry about the rain, is such a treat...especially as it gets warmer and the night breezes are ever so welcome.



Paul and Cherrie, a couple that cycled the Munda Biddi, a 1000 km mountain bike trail here, and I met at the campground in Nannup, spotted me as they were driving home to Perth and stopped to say hello. Small world, isn't it?



Lovely water view this night. What's not to love?!?!?

Onward and upward. Had some wonderful bush camping spots along the way. It's so easy in rural Australia. As long as I have enough water, every place is a campsite. Ants are the biggest issue. And they are everywhere. And every size. Teeny, tiny, like the period on this page...up to an inch long or more. And they get in my tent. And then there's the flies. In my eyes, up my nose, in my ears, even in my mouth. Thank goodness for the bug net. Frustrating to look through but a lifesaver.

I had a lovely stay with Warmshowers hosts Jose and Linda Narvaez-Evans in their Frank Lloyd Wright home high up the hill. They had a separate unit for cyclists. So sweet. And with storms expected, I stayed an extra night. Linda had to leave for her father's birthday party in Perth but I had plenty to do on my own since I was right in town. And then in the morning before leaving Jose and I chatted over a wide range of topics from the Internet to US politics. I love a good film discussion and a differing point of view. Opens me up to looking at things from another side.

Alongside the highway from Mandurah to Perth, and beyond, is the most amazing cycle path...it's a freeway for bikes!!





And a few more nights on the road brings me to today and my predicament. I just looked at a map and I'm so sad not to be biking the rest of the way.


Livin' the life!

BagLady

A Week in Nannup

November 15, 2015
Just south of Nannup, WA, AU

When the flies go to bed near dusk, the mozzies come out. I can't win! They are little guys here with a nasty bite. And tonight while I was sitting outside trying to ignore the flies (better with practice), I saw something move near my feet. A spider! About 2 inches long and a reddish brown matching the leaves. After the requisite photo (hopefully I'll be able to find someone to identify it), I scooped it up in a dish and moved him (or her) a ways away from my tent. Do you think there could be a family of them underneath me?!?! I sure hope not!



Western Australia does not go on daylight savings. It starts getting light around 4:30. And dark about 7:30 now. In the morning I pull the sleeve of my jacket over my eyes to block out the light for at least another hour. This morning I was biking by 7. That's pretty early for me. It's cooler then, for sure. I'd like to take a break midday for 2-4 hours during the worst heat and bike again after 3, but what to do for those hours is the challenge. It's hot. The flies are swarming. I have no place to get away from them. It's easier to just keep pedaling. The umbrella helps immensely. Could not cycle here without it. That and my fly net. I must be quite a sight to passing motorists:). Then, between 3-4 I stop because I'm beat: from the heat, from the flies, from pedaling. I find my place for the night, get Spacey set up and climb in. Ahhh, no flies! And I usually fall right asleep. A nap feels great.

OMG! There's this amazing bright orange sunset through the trees of the forest! I can't wait to cycle up the west coast and hopefully catch some amazing ones! I'm just getting snatches tonight.



Back to my book, Cloud Atlas. Pretty interesting writing style.


November 21, 2015
Nannup, WA, AU

On my way into Nannup, a sweet small town with a caravan park, I passed this sign on the road.


So strange to see my family name in the middle of nowhere. I left a note on my biker card in their mailbox to share my excitement.

I've been in Nannup nearly a week having arrived on Tuesday and this being Saturday. How do these things happen? Sometimes always moving gets a bit old and when the weather forecast for the weekend was in the high 90s I decided I was right where I needed to be. I arrived to sign in at the same time Falk did. He's a German man just beginning an open ended tour. He's cycling the Munda Biddi on a homemade bamboo bike!


And the campground was full of an Over 55 Cycling Club from Perth. So lots of company and bike talk. They did some seriously long rides...ones that would have taken me 4 days to complete. But I got some great info about the area as well as Tasmania. Still haven't booked a flight out of Perth. I'm so indecisive.

During the week more Munda Biddi cyclists came through. A Brazilian couple living here with a local woman. I may meet up with the local woman, Karen, over in Margaret River when I cycle out there next week. I love having people to hook up with.


Passing the time here all week I've gotten to know a lot of the locals. There's the couple who own the campground. Then the ladies of the craft circle I interrupted one afternoon. The women in the grocery store who helped me get small quantities of veggies out of the discard bin and bread ties to use as clothes pins. And the woman in the funky store with decorating items and vintage clothes. Last but not least, I met today the owners of Moss Brook B&B when the spotted me in town and chased me down:). The previous owners named it. Their name was Moss and its on a brook...




That's an antique Mini van they have. They invest in antique cars for their retirement. Hmmm....?

Oh and I forgot, yesterday afternoon when Midi, who works her at the campground, kindly gave me an outing with her to Busselton when she went to get groceries. What a kindred spirit! Eating ice cream and sitting in the sand. Lovely time. So how can I be lonely? Too busy!

And today I met a couple that live south of Rome, Italy and have a hostel on the Via Francigena, an Italian camino. Now I have a destination to get to so I can see them again! Her mother lives in Tasmania so I may meet her also. Ya never know!



Blaze and Spacey are enjoying their much deserved rest. Maybe my chair Ned's a name too!



Livin' the dream,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman