Frenchman's Cap Hike

February 9, 2016. Day 1
Lake Vera Hut, Tasmania




Woke up before 6 am with the decision to take a bus instead of trying to hitch. It just seemed like it was an added complication with a 6 hour hike at the end. I'd have had to get multiple rides most likely. And that takes time.





Good decision because it was a tough 7 hour hike. It's always hard to jump from biking to hiking. My upper body does nothing all day and then I ask it to work extra hard. Even though my pack is under 10 kilos, my body is not used to carrying weight...and it rebels!


I have to say the bus ride out through country that looks like our west only made me wish I'd had the time to bike it. I'll have to come back to do it. And leaving the large rolling hills, all brown from drought, and entering the forested land was a treat. The green is such a welcome sight. The trees are big and old. When we got to Lake St Clair Lodge for the bus transfer I felt like I was in an Adirondack lodge. Lovely wooded area. Like a mountain retreat. The next bus driver was a maniac! Crossing into the other lane while trying to answer his cell phone...then again trying to read it. He finally pulled off to check it. Then he was barreling around tight curves. I thought the bus was going to tip over. I was riding shotgun to calm my motion sickness. But my fear was worse. I was holding on with both hands and closing my eyes. I was petrified. I'm sure not riding in a car or bus too often played a factor. But he was hauling ass! I want to remember to ask some of the other hiker's that were on the bus what they thought. Maybe it was just me:/




That's Frenchman's Cap in the distance



Building a raised trail bed because usually it's terribly muddy up here, but now there's a drought.



Another method of trail building in muddy areas



And there were lots of boardwalks too



It was so beautiful up here. Granite rocky peaks in the distance. The trail is so well built its practically handicap accessible. Raised trail rd with deep trenches on both sides for good drainage. Lots of boardwalks. We're in a drought now, but usually it's quite wet and muddy on this trail. I went through some open plains and then deep rainforest. All different types of terrain.


I don't have a tent because I planned on using the huts. Wish I'd realized it was warmer than the weather report said. I tried to cowboy camp on the helipad but the dew was already too much. So I'm inside. Top bunk. Sleeping on top of my bag. It's hot up here. Don't think it will be a good night's sleep. And the snoring had begun:/. Where did I pack those earplugs? Keep smiling, BagLady!




Nice hut, huh?!?!

Day 2

Quiet night insidethe hut...except for my very noisy pad. There are very thin mattresses in the bunks so I put my mat on top. It was so loud every time I moved, it woke ME up! I finally just laid on the mattress, but oh my hips. Screw it! Back to my noisy air mattress. Sorry folks!




Notched logs were frequently used to get up in areas. Easy to climb up, but awkward to step down toed in.



And old wooden steps.



Love this shot of birds I was able to catch in focus:). No, I don't know what they are.



I did this hike with a 25 liter pack...Aussies were quite impressed! (Now if I could just get my gear on my bike that low:))



Crossing the Franklin River.

Today's walk was marvelous!! Up! Up! Up! The Mahoosic Arm on steroids!! The Through gorgeous, wet rain forests up onto granite ridges. Overlooking remote mountain lakes. Views that took my breath away. Cloudy today, which was much easier than yesterday's heat, for sure. And a much more rugged route. Hats off to the crew that put in this route. The most amazing craved rock and log steps! Just beautifully done!! Lots of very hard work. The trail is over 100 years old having been first laid out in 1910. Pretty impressive, huh! A philanthropist and Aussie business mogel, Dick Smith, finding his beloved trail falling apart in 2008 negotiated with the government to fund $100,000 annually for 5 years if they put in $50,000. Some of the trail work I saw yesterday was the result of this investment. Today there were many broken log bridges that I had to walk the side rails not to fall in. I'm sure they'll be next.

An added element to today's walk was my footwear. The bottoms of my feet were tender from my Chaco sandals so I opted to were my very comfy Croc sandals. They are a bit of a challenge as they tend to slide around quite a bit. Even more so when they are wet. So I had to watch where every step was placed. That sure slowed my down. Back to my Chacos and socks for tomorrow's climb. They grab my foot so much better!



When the clouds lifted I could look out over this steep wilderness with rolling green mountains in all directions. I hope my photos will do it justice.








I didn't summit Frenchman's Cap today because the clouds never lifted. Hopeful tomorrow's weather will be better. We actually got rain later today that was not in the forecast. I have enough food to stay here a few days if necessary to waIt for good weather. And with a lake at the base of the granite rock, I hope to get a swim in if it warms up.

Tonight it's me and 6 Aussie men in the hut. How lucky am I?!?! I've learned about quite a few good hikes in Tassie as well as the rest of Australia. Lots of hiking to do here yet!



I brought a pretty boring and repetitive food supply having only a quick visit to the grocery store and wanting not to carry much bulk or weight in my small pack that I'm using. Ramen and soup every night. Peanut butter and honey wraps for lunch. Muesli raw for breakfast. And everyone else with huge packs are eating gourmet! Suffer, BagLady!

Tomorrow, Summit Day!!

Day 3






The sun is shining on that rocky granite monster outside my hut window. Up and out early. No breakfast because this is a fasting day. It starts by winding through dense forest with a narrow path cut into the rock going up. Up and up. Quite quickly it breaks out into the open and I'm in a cirque with Lake Tahune at the base. Look! There's a naked guy toweling off after his morning swim.



He doesn't see me up here. And I see the hut too. Rocks. Lots of rocks. Back in my Chacos for this walk. My pack is light with only water and raincoat and camera. Lots of switchbacks. The trail marked only by cairns. Oh my! The view as I get higher us stunning.











I'm running low on words to describe the ethereal feelings im having see such breathtaking wilderness. Green mountains as far as the eye can see. It's getting steeper. Climbing up rock faces using my fingers to grip in crevices. Oh look. That wasn't the trail to this cairn because the trail comes in from the right. Hmmm. More rocks. Using rock climbing tricks to get up these rock faces. This is quite the climb! Oh no! Fog is rolling in. My view is quickly dissipating. After 2 hours, I finally reach the cap only to have no view in any direction:( I've got time. I'll wait.




4 guys come up. Take the requisite pics. Want a moon shot. I'll take it! 4 gorgeous bare butts!! They leave. I wait. A gay couple, Neal and Cliff arrive. I love these guys. The odd couple and quite experienced hikers. Love their stories. I wait. The fog lifts a bit in one direction and I get a glimpse. Such a flirt! Over 2 hours I spend up there and eventually I get a peak at each side. I'm thinking I'll head down and back to Lake Vera hut so I'd getter get going. And sure enough, on the way down it clears. I have some great views then. Oh well. That's my Frenchman's Cap experience. Mystical. "Mist"ical.










When I arrive back to Lake Tahune hut, it's a beautiful day. It's also 1:30. Do I want to stay here, swim, enjoy the day or hike 4-5 hours back to Lake Vera hut? Easy decision. I'll stay. I'm in no rush. So I skinny dipped in the lake and sunbathed on the beach with Frenchman's Cap peaking down at me.


Ramen noodles and soup for dinner. It's getting old. And early to bed cuz there's not much to do after dark up here. Tonight there's 4 guys and me in the hut.

Day 4



Heading back to Lake Vera hut today. I thought this was beautiful fog in the valley until someone told me it was smoke from forest fires quite a distance away.

This should be mostly downhill. And it was. Down and down and down. Now I know why I was so tired getting up this the other day. But I have all day and the rainforest us so cozy. I'm taking my time. Lunch by one small waterfall. Sat and painted by another.






"The woods are cozy, dark, and deep, but I have promises to keep..." - Robert Frost


Another American guy is here tonight and we thought we had the hut to ourselves until 3 kids arrived at 8:30 pm. So now we're five in the hut. Some going in. Others going out.


I'm hoping Steve, the American will give me a ride up to Derwent Bridge where either I can get a hitch back to Hobart tomorrow or there'll be a place to stay until Sunday's bus. These are "no horse" towns up here:). We'll see what tomorrow brings.

Day 5

Heading out today and hoping the dry weather holds. Rain would not be fun. The plan is for me to head out early because I suspect Steve hikes faster and I'd rather wait for him than the other way around. On my way out at about 8 am I met a guy hiking in for a day hike up to the Cap...really? 30 miles...tough climb...oh to be young and fit! Can't imagine the wear on your feet.

I took 5 hours to get to the parking lot and decided to try and hitch while I waited for Steve. Ya never know when that best ever hitch going exactly where you want to go will arrive. This was my longest hitch ever. 120 miles! The first car to stop were tourists that were headed to Hobart, but stopping along the way. Thanks for stopping, I'll pass and see if something better comes along. A couple more cars and busses stop but they're just going where Steve was taking me only 18 miles up the road. Pass. Then I began to think maybe I shouldn't be passing up all these rides. And then John stops. He'd hesitated at first. When I can tell a car isn't going to stop I always give them a friendly wave just the same...and sometimes they do stop...and he did. In his 6 cyl BMW...company car! He had to drive across the island and back take his abalone divers back to their cars. I treat my men well! So 6 hour round trip Saturday drive. "I'm going to be driving fast so I don't need a scared passenger in this car. I know this road well and all the good passing spots!" So I said "Lets go!" What a comfy car and smooth ride. Even though the road was quite windy, as mountain roads are, I was fine. Two hours later I was back in Hobart! Sweet!!!

So glad I got to experience a bit of the Tasmanian wilderness!


Livin' the dream!

BagLady

Hobart, Bruny Island, and Cygnet

January 31, 2016
Adventure Bay, Bruny Island, Tasmania, Australia















(That's Blaze out in the rain watching the waves crash ashore.)

The rain started getting stronger and I needed to get my tent up...but where? Day Use picnic area by the beach looks good. Who's gonna tell me No? The wind picked up. The tent is whipping around. I'm getting wet. Keep working at it. Put your bike shoes on the ground cloth end into the wind to hold it down. Quick get your poles assembled and into the grommets. It's up. Now hold it from blowing away while you clip it to the poles then get it staked. Throw your gear in. Cover your bike seat with plastic. Dive in yourself. Ahhh. Not too wet. Done before the rain got worse. Snug as a bug. I love my tent! My Big Sky Revolution 2 P with Porch. The best "rain" tent ever! The inside stays dry because the fly and the mesh are pre-attached. And the porch keeps the inside dry in the rain with the vestibule flaps open. I rarely am closed up inside, which I love! And I have a line permanently strung inside to hang wet stuff on. Sometimes it even dries at night.

In Hobart, Jane and I stayed at Warmshowers host's Eric Bergemann's house. What fun! He's not a biker, but his son is cycling the Pan American Highway right now using Warmshowers so Eric is reciprocating back home. And he has quite a few cyclists there. An easy flow. Everyone pitches in with food and cooking. People were scattered about on the patio (me), in the back shed, and in the attic. Wherever we could find space to lie down pretty much. It works! He's walking distance from the CBD (central business district, for Americans), the weekend markets, and the outdoor stores.


Eric started fire with a magnesium stick!

The big attraction in Hobart is Mona, Museum of Old and New Arts, a privately owned museum of arts this guy won gambling. Most interesting exhibits and stories. Do google it because I can't do it justice. It was a treat to the senses: a library with white books and no words, a digestive machine that eats and poops, the death gallery of black water, white marble, a mummy and an MRI of the mummy, and on and on... Fabulous! So worth it!



Digestive machine...they feed it and it digests food and then poops hours later.



MRI of a mummy.

After 5 nights at Eric's, Jane and I headed to Bruny Island south of Hobart. And got rain delayed 36 hours in our tents. Tassie needs rain. And it came down! I'm sure just a drop in the bucket in this drought, but we can't complain. Yesterday we were able to pack up and high tail it down to Kettering and the car ferry to Bruny. There's actually 2 islands with a neck joining them. Mostly farm land on the north and wilderness on the south. We stayed last night at a camping reserve for $5. Quite busy with car campers and campervans. This morning I couldn't sit still another day and Jane wanted to, so we split. It had to happen sooner or later. She had time to kill. I have distanced to cover. So I headed to Adventure Bay, a no horse town with some houses, a store with everything including food, a museum, a town hall, and a Bruny Island Cruise company that lets you tour the island from the water. I met a guy at one of the beaches I stopped at that was collecting seaweed to add to his compost. He invited me to "call in" at his house when I'm going back up the road to see his straw bale house. And he told me about a 3 hour hike at the end of the road here in Adventure Bay. Great hike up and around the steep cliffs!

I'll stop in and see Paul's house tomorrow when I head out.

February 5, 2016
On my way to Cignet, Tasmania
On a rocky coastline...ahh!

So I did stop in to Paul's straw bale house...er, mansion! So beautiful! And the view! OMG! Overlooking "The Neck", the narrow causeway between the north and south islands. They are totally off the grid: rain tanks, solar panels, gardens too. I've never seen a house this big that was off grid. I expected something much smaller. Was I surprised:))






Mt Wellington from the deck.


My room:)



And what sweet folks Paul and Michele are! First they offered me a shower and since it was afternoon, I said yes. I figured I wouldn't cycle much further that afternoon. Then they invited me to tea (dinner) and of course I said Yes! Then as we got discussing things further, they offered a bed. And after the discomfort of my air mattress, I said Yes to that too. Poor Michele had an evening commitment and a morning ferry to catch, but I wasn't exactly in the plan. No worries. Paul entertained me. That evening he took me for a drive up to a mountain lookout. Actually it was a road that cut across the middle of the South Island and I had contemplated taking it instead of coming pass Paul's house. Now I got to see what I missed. Rainforest. Coming down the other side was totally different foliage. So cool to see it. It's the first rainforest I've seen in Australia.

Then in the morning Paul offered to shuttle me down to the lighthouse with all my stuff so I could cycle back. Yes! It seemed to far to go down and back, but this would be perfect. I had decided not to tour the west side of the South Island but this enabled that. And I'm so glad I went. The views from the lighthouse were breathtaking! I can't capture on film the expanse of ocean and cliffs - the feeling inside that has no words.









Paul and me.





And then he took me to Mabel Beach. No signs. No one there. Another dose of serenity.

The day was wearing away and I wanted to get a bit of cycling done so we unloaded my stuff from the back of his ute, I loaded up Blaze, said goodbye and much thanks, Paul left and I started northward up the island on the gravel road. Got as far as the lagoon and it was too hard to resist staying there.



But I didn't pay close attention to where I set up my tent and it rained again...and I was in a swamp! But sunny days dry everything out.

The next night I camped on this windy point and had to tie Spacey to Blaze.




The following day I took the ferry back to the mainland, meeting Dave and Anne as they were parked next to me. They kindly offered to buy me a cuppa and of course I took them up.




I decided to cycle the Channel down and around to Cygnet, a famous hippy town here. The first night I was camped in a reserve with RVs...nothing special. But in the morning I had probably my shortest ride yet...6 kms:). Because I came to a beautiful spot and just couldn't resist stopping. After reading and walking and wading, I started to set up my tent on the point. And...the wind came up. Argh! So I walked around to find a more sheltered spot...and did! Yup perfect. Just gotta pack up again, but what else do I have to do?











And I had company...






Livin' the dream,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Maria Island and Before

January 17, 2016
Maria Island, Tasmania, Australia

I'm camped on an island that is a National Park off the east coast of Tasmania. No cars here other than Rangers' utes and trucks for hauling big stuff etc. that makes it pretty quiet...ahhhh! This place has had many lives, starting with it being a convict station in the early 1800s to a cement factory in the early 1900s. There were even farms on this rough, steep land over the years...and a school. The land has been allowed to recover itself back to native bush. And they also use it to restore the Tasmanian Devils population as there are few predators here. There's quite an array of wild life that go-exists with the people in Darlington, the "town" here (a ranger station, fairly primitive campground, some houses for the Rangers, some buildings as museums, a penitentiary that provides accommodation in the form of about 10 rooms with 6 bunk beds and a table and a wood heater, and a mess hall where you can prepare your meals....no cafes, no stores, no food provided.)


The oldest building on the island.


The Miller's cottage and rock foundation from a windmill.



Funnel web from the most dangerous spider in Australia!


Ruby Hunt's cottage. She lived here until the 1920's

When I finally ferry back to Triabunna on Tuesday (today is Sunday), I'll have been here a week. Jane's idea. I'm not complaining. Jane is a cyclist from Melbourne that I met on the road over a week ago. We were both headed south and just hooked up. She's got quite a tour under her belt. Her first and only other cycle tour was from Bejiing, China to Melbourne, Australia (home). 19 months. She's currently a student at Uni studying primary education. And on her summer break. And she's glamping! She's got a trailer attached and in there is everything imaginable! Except a camp chair. We hope to rectify that omission in Hobart:) And I'm the benefactor of her work pulling this gear around Tassie! Her intent was to cycle and then camp or extended periods. And it's working.

Soon after meeting, she came down with a bug that caused fatigue and nausea so she got a room for the night in Swansea. I found out how feral I've gotten when I camped along the base of the open sliding glass door for the night just to still feel breezes blowing over me and to smell and hear the rain. I'm having a harder and harder time being inside anywhere. Tough for me to regulate my temperature. Tough for me not to feel suffocated. I need AIR!! A fetish that's just getting worse and worse. I rarely even close the flaps of my tent (you remember My Big Sky Revolution 2 P with the Porch feature). I can leave the vestibules open in the rain most times and do!! Oh the air through it at night is delightful! This has to have some past life reference or sure.

So, since Jane, we've camped a couple of nights in Bicheno at a campground, then on the edge of a golf course overlooking the Big Oyster Bay at Swansea (with permission of the grounds keeper), then a motel room in Swansea with a killer view while Jane recuperated, then behind the pub in Triabunna awaiting the ferry the next day. Here in Maria Island we stayed at the campground in Darlington 2 nights and then pedaled out to Encampment Cove for 3 nights. The roads are gravel and sand. Sometimes good. Sometimes require pushing through deep sand. That's not fun with the trike. Nope. Not fun at all. I damaged my dereilleur in deep sand outside Perth so now I'm doubly nervous about re-injuring in it's fragile state. (Yup, a Rohloff hub for my next tour...enough of this!)

January 18, 2016
Same place. 7:30 am

Sitting down by the shore watching the water twinkle with cloudy sunlight. So calm. Utter tranquility. Similar to last night's sunset only different lighting. This morning is more greys. Last night was pinks and blues.



Over the weekend the campsites out here have filled a bit. Some people come in for just a night, others for a few days like us. There's a dad with his tween daughters, a family with tween boys, and a group of 5 backpackers (the kind that go from city to city with their backpack not hikers) that are all traveling solo but grouped up to buy a car and tour Tassie for a month. Then there are some coming in by mountain bike, a few solo guys. We're about 15 kms from Darlington. Done arrive by private boat, or walk or cycle from Darlington. Then there are the sailboats that just anchor in the cove for the night. Sure wish I could sail. Looks like such fun. Wonder if that patch really works for motion sickness. Maybe I'll get it while I'm home so I can give it a try sometime. What fun would that be to bop around through SE Asia by boat?!?



There are 3 kinds of kangaroos on the island: pademelons are the smallest, think small dog...wallabies are next, medium dog, then the kangaroo which is the size of a large dog.




And there are wombats. I want one as a pet! The look like cuddly bears walking on all fours, but the size of a medium dog and quite stocky.





And then there are the birds. Lots of kookaburras here to serenade us with their laughter song.


And seagulls. And then there are these long billed white birds that dive straight down into the water. I don't think that it was a seagull. I'm so bird illiterate:(

Been struggling lately with planning. I have to be out of Australia the end of February. I've decided to fly to Sydney for a week and visit my dear friends there (Carina I met on the Camino) before flying out. Out to where has been the question. I know I'm going to the states sometime this year but how long do I need there? Lots of people to visit, for sure. Gear to replace. Body parts to fix. And then back on the road, no question about that. I'm truly happy out here. A simple life, few stresses. I've toyed with going to Vietnam for a bit. Or cycling back to the states from Mexico. I fear I've had my fill of sun for awhile. My skin is parched. Maybe just go home and enjoy that for a bit. I do miss my daughters terribly. I sometimes find it challenging to decide what to do next. So many places to see. This is quite a big world at 50 kms a day!

But I still have a month left in Tassie!!

January 19th
Triabunna, Tasmania

Yesterday we meandered our way back to Darlington, the main spot with the Rangers station, campground, and accommodation. And feeling pretty grubby we were looking forward to showers. Too bad. The main tank on the island sprung a leak and they lost 90,000 liters of water. Everything was shut down. No showers, no toilets. We had water to drink from a tank at the toilet block and that was it:(. No showers for us.

I forgot to mention some of the prison ruins we saw out near Encampment Cove. There was a row of brick solitary cells, about 20 of them. 6x8 feet, I reckon. With only one window in the door facing out over the inlet. Solitary confinement. It drove many of them mad we were told. The camera I had with me had a dead battery so no pictures of that unless I can get some from Jane.

So today we ferried back to Triabunna and the sea was calm and delightful. Sure beat the rough crossing we had going out. I was a bit fearful of a repeat performance. And we decided to stay around town this afternoon. I had gotten a shower this morning when they had pumped water from a reservoir into an old tank and everything was operational. But Jane didn't so she needed that. We need to restock groceries. (I'd gone with food for three nights and we stayed 6...I ate everything I had!). So instead of camping behind the pub like we did before catching the ferry, we found public grounds overlooking the inlet. Sweet! I can always find good spots, Jane...stick with me! She's quite good at finding them too! And finding power. We're charging up our iPads and power banks in the outlet at the fire hall nearby. There was a water tap there too. Tis a most interesting life when every day is a scramble for water, power, food, and a campsite. Then there's weekly showers and washing clothes to figure out. But somehow it all does work itself out. Just can't be too fussy about cleanliness:)

Some more Maria Island pics:




Painted Cliffs




Fossil cliffs




The air was cold with artic breezes but the sun was hot!



We learned to make rope from NZ flax plants and Toby showed us how strong it was.




Riding down the island



Our rigs parked outside a grocery store



Whale bones!

Livin' the dream!

BagLady

Other deleted photo from last blog post

Vickie's spanakopita with trike






Livin' the dream!

BagLady

Photo deleted

Robert Barnes self portrait



Livin' the dream!

BagLady