Made it through the Everglades!

OMG! Biking the Everglades was something else! The first night I slept behind a deserted building and across the street was a closed restaurant with an ICE MACHINE at my disposal. Does it get any better?

Monday morning I got an early start trying to beat the heat. On the road (with my water bottles all iced up!) at 6:45 a.m. Holy smokes! Headwinds!!!!! Pedaling at 5-8 miles an hour for hours and hours under blistering sun on a road that has all the Interstate 75's traffic rerouted onto it because 75 was closed due to smoke and fires. Think LA freeway in rush hour but there's only 2 lanes and impatient people. Finally I came upon the Loop Road, a gravel road "through" the Everglades. Highway 41 goes east and drops south before going east again. The Loop Road goes south, then east, and meets back up with Hwy 41. It was a treat to get out of the wind, the sun, the traffic, and the noise....back into the woods, so to speak. But the road was like a washboard in spots, had loose sand and holes, so I had to bike slowly and watch out, but....in life take the Loop Roads whenever you can. You'll not be disappointed. I saw large birds, white and black, otters playing in a mud hole, and tons and tons of alligators just off the side of the road. I also saw flowering air plants or orchids...not sure which. It was a beautiful ride. The map showed an Education Center about 2/3 down it and I was hoping to get more water there. (Have to always be aware of my water supply.) When I got there it was closed. I also found out that the mileage of the Loop Rd from where I started only counted to the Ed Center. I had another 8 miles to go before getting back to Hwy 41. So what do I do? Stop the next car I see and "yogi" for water. They didn't have water, but the mother offered her ice tea to me. (How sweet of her!) And the dad filled my water bottles with ice from their cooler! Better yet...colder! After sharing my story and the dad saying he hoped that his daughter and granddaughters were inspired by my tales, I biked on.

My plan for the day was to get all the way across the Everglades, but I hadn't counted on the wind. Pump, pump, pump, pump....and on and on into the wind, careful of the cars and trucks.
A stop at an Indian gift store led to my meeting 2 interesting people from Ohio who drove to FL, rented a Harley, and are on their way to Key West. Diana and Joe. We shared stories for a half hour or so, resting from the sun. I love the people!!!!!!!

From there I went down the road just a bit to the Indian tribe's restaurant where I got dinner, charged my batteries, shared stories with the waitress and talked with friends on the phone. At this point I still had about 20 miles to go and did not know where I would find to pitch my tent.

Let me describe the road at this point. On the north was a wide canal. To the south was a bit of mowed grass and dense (very dense) Florida brush. When there was a gap, they only went back in a short ways and the grass was always coarse, bushy, and not tent friendly. Harsh conditions!

So after filling up my bottles with ice and water, off I went about 6 p.m. From the night before, I knew I needed to be off the road by about 7:30 or I needed to put on my lights. (I have a blinking red light for the stern and my headlamp on my helmet for the bow.) Pump, pump, pump, down the road I go. Every pump painful for the crotch chafing that has made my life pretty miserable. I found this road the went south to the power lines and there was an old paved pathway with grass growing through it. Could I bike on this for a while and avoid the winds and traffic? Let's give it a try. So down it I go. There is FL weeds and brush on both sides as well as growing up through the pavement. I'm pedaling along with my iPod on when I see and alligator! OMG! I forgot to watch out for them! What was I thinking to even go down this road? Ahhh! It's dead...and there's another dead one on the other side. Oh boy, I'd better turn off the iPod and listen up! Pump, pump, pump, oh my god, a black snake in my path. I can't stop. I'm going to hit it. It's scrambling, I'm scrambling, chaos, my legs in the air, a sharp pain in my right thigh. I think it leaped up and bit me!

It doesn't seem to hurt enough to be a snake bit, but it sure look like it leaped at me. Did I scrape a bush? I don't know. If I die back here, no one will ever find me. Better make a video telling everyone what happened in case they do find me...dead. Bike on, for a mile and a half....and....dead end. Darn it. Gotta go back. Time wasted on this attempt. Back to the road. Pedal on.

It's getting dark. Put your lights on. There's a restaurant, closed, perhaps I can find a place to camp there. Nope. Fenced, gated, people across the road fishing in the canal. Just now as I write this, I guess I could have pedaled on for a ways, then when it was dark, come back and set up hoping no one would notice me. Not ideal, but an option.

But on I pedaled. Come up with a Plan B. What are you going to do, girl, if you don't find any place and it gets really dark? You can't bike out here. Too dangerous. I decided that when it got really dark, I would turn off my lights, get off my bike, and walk as far to the right as I could. I'd have been about 10' - 15' from the road. And I walk all night if I had to. What else could I do? This was my only fear coming true. Have faith. Something will show up. At least I had a plan.

Then about 8:15 I spotted an RV park. Yippee! I'm sure I can find a place in here to set up! And I did. I met George, a commercial airfreight loader, who was living out there now (since his company cut their budget and no longer put them up in hotels). He offered me his lawn to sleep on, his shower, food, plied me with liquor, offered me the couch to sleep on if I wanted it, and cooked me breakfast this morning. Just when you think things are at their worst, trail angels appear! He was a delight and cute besides. I love the people!!!!!

So this morning after eggs and pancakes, I started on down the road with only 5 miles left to get out of the Everglades. I stopped at a rustic rural store for ice water and info on a possible trail beside a canal that Google Maps was sending me down. I got both. I was also told the Krome Rd, my only other choice, had no shoulder. Ouch!

I got to the canal path and tried it, but the gravel was too rough and loose. Couldn't pedal on that for 20 miles. No way. So Krome Rd it is. God I hope it has a shoulder. Well, it did have a shoulder, but it also had narrow lanes and lots of traffic too. OMG! Tractor trailer trucks went by 3-4 feet off my elbow. Don't waiver. Your job is to keep straight and as far right as you can. Wished I paid more attention to the truck that said "Wide Load".... you know, the lead truck. The wide load almost took me out. I paid closer attention after that.

Bike for a few miles then find some shade. Cool down, get water, rest. Start again. I found that my large water bottle stored down in my black pannier actually stayed coldest the longest. Most of the day. Ice water never tasted so good. One stop was at a fruit and veggie stand. Madeleine picked me out a nice ripe mango and chatted me up. Then when 2 people ordered strawberry shakes, she gave me the leftovers that didn't fit in their glasses. Mmmmm good! Made with strawberries (fresh), milk, sugar, and ice. The real thing.

So on I trucked in to Homestead, FL. I never felt so relieved to be back in civilization in my life. The road got wider. The trucks disappeared. I could breathe easy again.

And then I got to my hostel for the night. Everglades International Hostel in Florida City is just the cutest, funkiest place on this earth! The internal court yard has outdoor rooms, an outdoor shower, outdoor kitchen, a gazebo, and a newly installed rock pool with a waterfall to stroll through. (I saved that for tomorrow. The shower came first.) This place is so cool, I'm afraid it may have Key West beat. I have decided to stay an extra night so that I can zero here tomorrow and enjoy the people and ambiance.

Life is good. I feel like I have new friends everywhere! This bike touring is more fun than I even imagined. And I don't think I'd want to do it any way but alone. I can do anything I want, when I want. And I meet more people alone.

I think I've found the life. Just no more Highway 41's, please.

Loving the life, Bag Lady/Kathryn

Chillin' with a Key Limeade on Chokoloskee Island

Yesterday I made it 50 miles to Collier Seminole State Park. The ranger, Michelle, was a sweetheart and took great care me finding me ice... love ice! But as far as I'm concerned that was a $20 shower and the worst camping spot I've been in in years! Bugs, worn, dirty sand, and late night partying when I needed to get up early. But the partiers were wonderful neighbors that offered me dinner, drinks, and companionship. It's just that when I need to get some sleep, they didn't. Oh well. I did enjoy sharing my story with them and one of the guys, Tom, is planning to hike the AT with a buddy next year.

Got off early today for a fun day of pedaling on 41 across the Everglades: strong headwinds, lots of cars, rumble strips and raised reflectors on the wonderfully wide shoulder (so I can't use it). Met a fascinating birdman at the Big Cypress Boardwalk and he had a big lens to get up close photos of red breasted hawk nesting, ospry nesting, and alligators. Allen was a treat to meet and walk and talk with. I learned lots, and saw more than I would have alone, that's for sure!

Made the wise decision to go the extra miles out to Everglade City and Chokoloskee Island. The town is small and quaint...just my kind of place. Martin LeBlanc (remember him?) told me about the Triad restaurant and I'm going back there for a late lunch/early dinner. ( I try to eat only twice a day - one in a restaurant or grocery store). While biking through EC, I saw this tall isolated grove of trees popping and burning. Some guy went running into a nearby house and got a fire extinguisher (like that was going to do any good!). I called 911. The fire trucks were there quickly getting it extinguished. There were pickup trucks parked right next to it (fisherman leaving their cars there for the day and couldn't be moved) and houses nearby.

On to Chokoloshee Island to tour around before going back the Triad. While pedaling out here, a woman pulled along side to tell me: 1) I'm getting a bad burn on my lower back, and 2) there's a great place to get key limeade off the main drag, JT's Island Cafe and Gallery. And that's where I am right now. And they have free internet! How grand is that. Feel like I'm on the AT again, trying to get all my internet stuff done. Love that feeling of being on the AT.

This guy just sat down to talk with me about my ride. He's a biker and has gone cross country and all around Europe. So nice to talk to others who have done what I'm doing and get it. He's a kayak guide down here now. What a life! Dean, I still think you should hike the AT. It's your kind of life and people!

It's hot out there, cool (but not air conditioned) in here...so where should I be? The key limeade is delicious, cold, and refreshing. I just checked the menu...there's Greek salad. I may have to have that! I'll get a fish appetizer later at the Triad before heading back to 41 and moving on into that headwind again...to find a place to sleep tonight. My plan is to bike til dark (or nearly so) because the mosquitos and deer flies will eat me alive if I'm just hanging around camp. I'm going to try for a very very very early start tomorrow....like on the road at 5...Thumper would be proud of me! I hate to get up early as he knows. (For those who don't know it, Thumper's a guy I hiked for 4 months on the AT and I credit him with "dragging my ass to Maine".)

Pedaling on, Bag Lady

Day 5 - Hoofing it to the Everglades

I'm finally in a library with some internet access to update my blog. I love and hate my new iPhone. There's so much to learn and I get all tangled up but it's not easy to get untangled and I don't want to waste time trying to figure things out. Oh well!

I am having the time of my life. You should see me sailing along on my bike in my bathing suit top (string back to eliminate dorky tan lines) and bike shorts hitched up (for same reason) with rainbow banner waving off the back iPod in my ears, singing away! Every one I talk to cannot believe my age or that I'm doing this alone. Get over it people!

For the last 2 nights I slept on Ft. Myers Beach. It's allowed. The cop and beach patrol said so. Met some interesting people. Walking on the beach, I met Martin LeBlanc about whom the movie Gross Pointe Blank was filmed. He said it was a Hollywood exaggeration of his life. Now I have to see the movie. I met 10 woman "my age" (so said the resort manager) in their 40's, visiting from Kansas. They fed me a steak dinner the first night. Last night I met a woman at the same resort (think quaint, cozy, 50's, 5 unit resort with murals) and she shared her margaritas and cheese crunchies with me while we shared the stories of our lives and loves. I just love the people I meet. That's no different than the Appalachian Trail.


This morning I had an expensive breakfast and a cafe (I didn't think it would cost that much!) and the Mexican waiter ws so cute and interested in my ride and bike. Language was a barrier and gave me the feeling of what riding through Mexico would be like. I need to learn some Spanish! I understand more than I can say. (good project for next winter....or just go to Mexico next winter and learn it...better yet!)

I haven't had to worry about rain, but I forgot about sprinklers! I woke up during the night to the strangest noise hitting my tent and then stopping and then hitting it again. Sounds like rain. Nope, not raining! What's going on? Finally I figured out: sprinklers on! But I forgot to think about my bike. Everything on it got wet. Oh well, we dried out on the lawn of the Holiday Inn around noon time.

Homeless and happy!

The Bag Lady, Kathryn

station outside Punta Gorda tonight. Gonna have lunch with Diamond from AT tomorrow...yippee!

Day two: 27 miles yesterday, 33 miles today - my butt is sore, my arms are sore & burned,but I'm a happy bag lady! Camped behind a high voltage

Can't update blog except for title with iPhone...won't provide keyboard when I touch where text body goes. Anybody able to help me?

Visiting Nutella and Moonpie and then back to Sarasota

I love having trail friends all over the place. Nutella is a young woman I met in Millinocket at the end of the trail. She "yogi'd" a ride from us back to her hometown in Camden Maine, but we got the best tour of the coast - what a wealth of information she has. Her family is living in Florida now. So when I knew I was passing through, I made a call to her and asked to crash on her couch or floor. Her place in Winter Park is adorable. I small but efficient one bedroom - and so well decorated. I pulled my air mattress, my silk liner, my pillow from the car and made a great bed on her living room floor. I love being able to sleep anywhere. Flexible, I am. We had a great dinner at my favorite chain, Chipotle, and then she drove me out to Big Tree Park where there are two ancient palmetto trees, one 2000 years old and the other 3500 years old. They were massive! Biggest trees I've ever seen next to the California redwoods. Then we toured downtown Orlando. When I think of Orlando, I think of Disney. But, guess what! There's more to Orlando than Disney! There were funky restaurants and art galleries. There were quaint homes on cobblestoned streets. Beautiful place. I could live there! The next day we hooked up with Moonpie for breakfast. He's a young man that I hiked with through New Hampshire and Maine. He saved the day for me at Zealand Hut in the Whites when, after my noticing that I had lost a croc and was moping around thinking how difficult life was going to be without it, he comes tromping it waving a croc about asking if anyone had lost it. Trail magic! I told him I loved him from that moment on!!! Moonpie used to sell cars in Raleigh NC before hiking the trail. After the trail he said he couldn't go back to that job and heard that Disney was hiring. He got a job down here managing their food and beverage carts. I may have to stop back and see him on my way out of Florida because he can get me in to the park for free. I'd love to see Universal studios! We'll have to see... Using my new toy, my iPhone, I found a favorite, funky breakfast spot in Orlando that neither Nutella nor Moonpie knew about: All American Cafe on Ferncreek Ave. Yummeeee! They have a breakfast buffet on Sundays that is to die for! A very rustic but real spot. Check it out if you're ever in Orlando - downtown.

Next stop after hugging my buds goodbye, for now, was to stop and see an ex-Xerox colleague who's moved to Palmetto FL. Laura Meyers is a changed woman. She's lost 50 lbs, hired a personal trainer, met a wonderful man, and is getting married May 2. I wouldn't have recognized her on the street - she looked fabulous!!! She's my mentor now. These extra few pounds have got to go. I want to be a lean, mean, sexy machine when I get back to Fairport. I really only have to work on the lean part, I think...and maybe some sexy lingerie would help. After a short, but sweet visit to Laura and Frank's new home, catching up on the news, sharing photos of the trail, and getting to know Frank a bit (loves the outdoors...my kind of guy!), I moved on down the road back to Kim's house in Sarasota. Here I'll pack my bike, store my SUV and canoe, get my new credit card (yup, right in the middle of this trip Citicards decides it needs to reissue my card to protect me...they did this while I was on the trail, too...thanks Citibank for making my life so easy), get my new battery-driven charger for my iPhone and iPod, and off I'll go, tomorrow. I'm chomping at the bit to get this show on the road. I'm ready for sun, sand, pedals, tents, and freedom - all by myself. I may get to Key West and not leave. Stranger things have happened!

Hanging Out

Not much news to report, just hanging out with my daughter and her roommates. Finally got a couple of short bike rides in around St. Augustine, but have barely begun to condition for this long trip starting next week. Guess I'll just have to get in shape as I go, instead of biking in circles to get ready for it. I may have some short days in the beginning, but I have no time constraints so I can take as long as I wish.

I have also managed to get down to the beach a couple of times: once to catch some rays and walk for an hour or so...then again last night to enjoy the breezes, smells, and sounds. I do love the beach!

Wednesday I'm hoping to hook up with Hammock Hanger who lives in Jacksonville and do some paddling on the intercoastal waterway. Then, at least, my canoe will get off the car and get wet. I also have a place south of here to put in on Thursday. I was hoping to go there tomorrow but they're calling for thunderstorms...not a good time to be on the water in a toy boat.

So hang tight. I'm hoping the bike trip starts next Monday, or Tuesday at the latest. I'm as anxious as y'all to get started. Once I do begin, I won't have internet access unless I find libraries with connections. We'll just have to see what gives.

I have to say my knee has not been cooperating. It's fine as long as I don't use it. It's had some issues biking because of the torque I have to get it to release my clips...ouch! I was reading about using a foam roller to stretch the IT band and help to release some of the trigger points, so I decided to buy one today. Now, my friends know how frugal I can be. Well, the real foam roller sold to do this (with CD) was $22, BUT they were selling foam roller water shooters for $10! It's smaller in diameter, but does the trick. Hey, $12 is $12, and I didn't need the CD...

I guess that's all the news that's fit to print.

Hugs to all, Bag Lady

Moving On

After 3 full days in Sarasota, it's time for this wanderer to hit the road again. I'll be packing up my toys (oh yah, I didn't unpack any of them here) and heading on to St. Augustine to spend some time with daughter number 2, Dana. She, her boyfriend Joe, and his friend Carl all share a small house there. I may have to sleep in the back of my SUV or go to the beach and camp if room is really limited... I not sure what the accommodations will be. But Dana knows I can sleep anywhere, so things will be fine.

I'm hoping to hook with a trail buddy, Hammock Hanger, who lives in Jacksonville. We may do some paddling although I don't know where exactly. The story of how we met is a true example of the wonders of the Appalachian Trail. I started my trail journal on line (at trailjournals.com) before I left home and in it I mentioned that I was going to use a hammock. Hammock Hanger read my journal and signed my guestbook. We corresponded a bit. Her plan for the summer was to hike the Eastern Continental Trail, I think it's called. Then, out on the AT, in Virginia, hiking along, didn't our paths cross? She on her trail, me on mine, where her's and mine were one for a while! How serendipitous was that? We hiked together for a couple of days before her trail broke off from the AT. So now we're hoping to hook up again and get our feet wet.

I've been busy planning my bike tour. The one place in Florida that I've always wanted to see was Key West. And now I've decided to bike there. Kim, my friend here in Sarasota, suggested I take advantage of the fast ferry between Key West and Fort Myers, and the plan was born. After checking for the direction of the prevailing winds in the keys, I've decided to bike from Sarasota to Key West, then take the ferry back to Fort Myers and bike back to Sarasota. Distance: about 425 miles. I'm in no hurry and will visit and play along the way. I'll try not to just put my head down and pedal on without seeing the sites. I'll camp mostly - stealth camp as much as I can, but a shower at the end of the day in a campground is also welcome. I'll get a room only when I can't camp.

I'm excited because this will be a blast seeing new sights and meeting new people, but also scared because I don't know what I don't know. And what I don't know could get me in to trouble.

The Beat Goes On

The photos are of Yonder spinning a pizza that he then baked in his gas oven on the back of the truck. Hot pizza trail magic!

Oh, well, looks like canoeing is on hold altogether. Okeefenoke was booked, the rivers are swollen, my "toy boat" may be too small for the Intercoastal Waterway and its rough waters, and it's dang cold here in the south this week and all I brought was my 50* bag, so EZ and I decided this was not the time to do this trip. Perhaps towards the end of April we can do it. We'll just have to see how things happen.

Now what do I do? I call my girlfriend in Sarasota, the one I was going to bike from St. Augustine to see and decide to stay with her this week. My daughter, Dana, is working all week so she doesn't want me to arrive there until Friday. Homeless. I'm beginning to feel it. But not friendless!

Now I have to rethink the bike trip. Where to go? Any suggestions? I was originally going to bike from St. Augustine over here to Sarasota and back. Now I should bike to somewhere else. But where? I'll be starting mid week, next week. I've always wanted to see the Keys, maybe I'll drive closer and bike down from there. Hmmm. Flexible. Remain flexible. It will be what it's suppose to be. Can't wait til the Universe fills me in!

Now remember:

1. I love to sing, but can't carry a tune... even in a bucket. This video even had me in stitches. I know my daughters will really get a kick out of it!

2. I'm new at this blog thing, so lower your expectations. I'm doing the best I can, but I'd rather be doing stuff other than sitting at this computer writing and uploading photos.

Step Lightly,

Bag Lady