Saturday, July 21, 2012

Heads up - watch the post dates

They posted out of order. So be careful how you read them.


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Destination: Bremen

Wednesday July 18
Bremen, Germany

I woke up knowing I couldn't lay in bed...but I wanted to:). So comfortable! Ahhh! But I have to get to Bremen in the afternoon. 5:00 at the latest. I want to have time to talk with and enjoy the evening with Cornelia, Stefan, and Florian.

In the morning, Frank felt better and it was a pleasure to get to know him over breakfast. Love your jokes,Frank! Sylvia had maps for me and we talked about route possibilities:
- follow Geesweg signs. Longer but scenic
- follow main roads, quicker but noisy and still the problem of negotiating through busy areas
- follow cycle routes (red dotted lines) on one of the maps and shorten the route but still have it scenic. That's what I decided to do after I got started.



That is thick, slippery mud that I can barely pedal through and don't even want to get off of Blaze. And it's on a road I'm having to take to get back on track...

And of course, I missed a turn. Got lost. Got found. Stumbled my way and lucked out coming into the city on a bike path very close to their house. Yippeeeee... It worked!

It's not easy hosting us when you live in a 3 & 4th floor apt. Blaze got tucked into the basement and she fit rather nicely I might say. And all my gear got hauled upstairs out of the way of the other tenants. It worked just fine!

We spent the early evening touring historic Bremen. Incredible architecture 600 years old! And quite ornate, I might add.






And when you're not tour guides and are asked lots of questions, it's not easy. But we managed to find most of the answers:) I still want to know the history of the house built so close to the church. There's something interesting about that arrangement, don't ya think? Let me know when you find out, Cornelia.

Fascinating city with the most adorable "nooks and crannies". Loved walking around it!

Back home Stefan (who went home a bit earlier with Florian) had a scrumptious couscous salad waiting for us with that crusty brown German bread. And we had lots...and I mean lots...of strawberries. I stopped and got some as a house gift, but Cornelia had also picked some up at the market. I'm sure they'll all get eaten.

I had the most delightful time before dinner playing with Florian. Now remember, he doesn't speak English and I don't speak German...but we can speak IPHONE GAMES! It's a great way for me to connect with kids. Cornelia said she was watching us and I was speaking English, Florian German and we seemed to understand each other:)

He didn't want me to leave. It was so cute. But he doesn't like his picture taken so I had to respect that and don't have one to insert as I would like. Thanks, Florian, for the grandmotherly moments and the high five this morning!

I was dragging, so it was off to bed for me at about 10:30 while my clothes were still in the washer. I couldn't wait up for them. And the foam fold-a-bed was sooo, sooo comfortable. If I ever have a real bed again, that's all it's going to be made of. Oh did I sleep!

BagLady


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Sleeping in the Open...Getting Brave Again!

Friday, July 20th

11:00 am I slept 11 hours last night. Woes me, guess I was tired! And awoke to no rain. Packing up dry! Felt a bit odd. Stumbled around on the route this morning off course twice already. I'm getting much braver. Not afraid that they won't speak English. Even if they don't, I think they can help me. This morning I stopped a car to get help. That's a first in Germany.



And now I'm in a little restaurant getting my coffee for the morning. Had a fruchplunder (fruit Danish) from the grocery store for breakfast 10 minutes ago when I was getting today's salad for dinner and some bread. Needed to charge both phones so when I found this spot, I'm getting coffee, charging and lunch all at once!! Donertasche. That's what I'm having. Gyro meat in a wrap. I'll be giving up meat again when I get back home, but here it's such a big part of the diet and would really limit my options.



I passed through the prettiest area this morning. Findorf. Beautiful homes and gardens. Otherwise it's most farm land. Also beautiful, but in a different way.

7:30 pm I'm camped out in the open this evening on a quiet lane on the edge of field in the woods...sorta. Can't be in the dark deep woods again. I can't see why anyone would mind and I need to get my mojo back. Some men out for an evening bike ride had stopped on the road and were commenting about the bike, so I stuck my head out, but my English scared them away. They were smiling and friendly though. If someone comes, I'm not moving. They can darn well haul me off to jail. It's a dry evening though after another day of rain on and off. And I'm enjoying having my tent open and the evening light pouring in. The field has oats swaying in the breeze...stiff breeze at that...but the woods block me from the worst of it. And the sky has...no, had...the most beautiful white fluffy clouds against a blue background. It's cloudy now...the grey, rainy kind. Don't know how long the dryness will last.

2nd the last night on the road. Very ready to come home!

Gonna keep this short and sweet...oh, oh, heard a car...is this the time...no, guess not...no one's is there.

Oh I do want to share about trying to find postcards and cash in the last sizeable town. No one wanted to speak English with me. One gracious woman, when I went to the bank and it was already closed, worked with me though to finally tell me where an ATM was. I don't know what they call it here, but it's the machine that I put a card in and I get euros out! But postcards were hard. DId finally get a couple but I had to ask and ask and ask. And when they do use some English with me, I thank them for it! And I love the folks that at least try and help me and don't just look at me like I'm some creature from Mars...I get that sometimes. Lunch ordering today was stumbling but I managed to ask enough questions pointing and he answered and pointed...and we figured it out together. He had some English though, so that helped too.

Passed by a place today that was marked on the map as KZ.



I couldn't read the signs about it, but I think it had something to do with the holocaust. There were a lot of barrack type buildings all boarded up. I took a picture of the signs for Heike to interpret for me.

Ok, going to bed early and hoping for a long uninterrupted night. Keep your fingers crossed for me!

BagLady


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I'm Not Going to Let Anything Take the Smile Off My Face

Thursday, July 19th
near Vollersoda, Germany
weather: you guessed it!

Oh, I didn't want to wake up this morning, but I knew Florian was leaving for school at 7:50 and I wanted to see him again before he left. He gave me a high 5 when I walked into the kitchen! Thanks:))

I didn't want to upset their morning routine, but luckily Stefan wasn't working until the evening and could help me out a bit this morning. I had to get my clothes dry at the laundromat, get wifi at the coffee shop, and find cycle maps for the area north of Bremen.

And the weather wasn't cooperating. But I managed to get my things done, get Blaze loaded up, and Stefan led me to the Bahnoff (train station) to a store with lots of cycle maps. It's a good thing he was with me because the guy spoke no English. We managed to find a good map and a route up to the ferry where I need to go the next couple of days. Stefan got info on where to find the route and what the route symbol looked like and off we went, him joining me for a few kilometers.

We said our goodbyes at the end of the park and not 200 meters later I couldn't find the sign. There was a bridge straight ahead with a symbol that said it was only a people bridge so a followed the pathway to the right where it dead-ended! Back to the bridge where I saw another cyclist cross it, so I did...and there were my signs. Ok. Good. Turn left. Go for a short ways and come out on a major street. No signs. Well, I think right is correct, so I go that way. On and on and no signs. After awhile when I'm thoroughly wet...and so is my map...I decide to go back and check signs again. When I'm getting back, I see across the street way down to the left (probably couldn't have seen them from where I came off the path originally)...signs! So I keep going. Following the sign symbol we had decided in the map store was the right one. The signs are also saying what towns this path is leading to, but I don't know the towns, so the names mean nothing to me. And it's raining so I'm not pondering over the map. On and on I go. Eventually, something just isn't seeming right. And when I can explore the map a bit, I find out that the symbol I was following went to the northwest as well as the northeast, the way I needed to go. I was off course. And the rain was the hardest, wettest rain I've been in this whole trip. And the wind was blowing so hard I couldn't use the umbrella which made me wetter....wet through everything (except my coat:)) Pants were just dripping! And the rain hit my face so hard it felt like hail. I was not a happy camper. Wet, lost, but in good spirits...and I don't know why. I will find the way. Just find a town in the direction you need to go and follow the auto signs...screw the cycle paths. And I did that for about 15 km.

I finally got to Worpswede, an artist community. Don't have a clue what road I came in on and my sense of direction was all turned around. After asking a few different people, some speaking little English but trying to help me anyways, I got a woman with good English who knew where I could find cycle route signs...near the bahnoff. Ok. Works for me.

So I'm back on the route, camped in the woods for the night. It's freezing out! Like a November day! And I have lots of time to make the distance I need to go, so I should be good.

I just don't have any candy or sweets tonight:( Forgot to get some and it's making me cranky!!

Time to say goodnight,

Thank you Cornelia, Stefan, and Florian for a wonderful time in Bremen and for sharing yourselves and your home with me:) It meant a lot to me and rejuvenated me for the last leg of this incredible journey! Have fun on your camping trip:))



(Insert adorable, blonde, 7 yr old boy...)

BagLady


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A Surprise Invitation

Tuesday July 17
Wildeshausen Germany
I'm not even going to mention the weather...ok...it doesn't change

(I'm writing this on Thursday. I can't believe the long post of this wonderful day I did not post into my blog. I thought I had and I deleted it from my journal. Now I'll have to be brief:(

In the beginning of the day, I was in Cloppingburg (I'm doing this from memory...that's close) and needed better maps or more information on the cycle routes. I ended up at the tourist information office where a woman next to me spoke better English that the woman behind the counter. Back outside, she and her husband, who were German tourists with a motorhome and bikes, said they'd be my "Follow Me" car and lead me to the cycle path...and they weren't even locals. What a sweet couple. They said they'd toured the US many times and often when needind help to find a route, people would hop in their cars and say "Follow me!" Thanks to the nameless trail angels!!




Best part of the day was Sylvia saving me when I was had lost the route, retraced 3 miles, and was standing at a signpost...
forlorn and not sure which way to go. After chatting and discussing how to find it she asks if I'd like to go home with her and spend the night. And join her and her friends on an evening bike ride to visit a special garden. YES. This means I'll have to bike longer tomorrow but I don't want to miss this opportunity.

No regrets, that's for sure. But I should have asked Sylvia where she lived:) We biked a couple of miles south of Wildeshausen to her house. What a house! You know how I've been mentioning the brick barns here? Or have I just been thinking of mentioning them...I never know~... Well, she and her husband, Frank bought the house and barn 40 years ago and spent 12 years renevating it. And what an incredible job they've done! It was this beautiful wood throughout. And lovely gardens surrounding it. What luck for me to be able to see this incredible place up close and personal:)

So after a quick shower and some supper that Sylvia fixed just for me...how'd she know bikers are hungry people?...we hopped on our bikes and headed back into the town again to meet up with her friends. An evening with 12 women all about my age!


And they welcomed me in with open arms:) After everyone was gathered and all the hellos and introductions done (don't ask me to repeat the names, please), we hopped back on our bikes to head out of town about 5 miles to the garden.


The garden is quite large, surrounding the house on three sides with areas of shrubs, flowering plants, rock formations, the sections of a gnarly 300 year old tree, and several ponds (one for the fish and one for the people). I wish I understood more, but Sylvia and friends often filled me in on what he was saying. Of course I missed a lot...and gardening is a topic I love...but it was fun pretending I understood him:) And the garden alone was worth the time! Then about 9 pm, we hopped back on the bikes, and wandered back towards town with ladies peeling off from the group as we neared where they lived. It was out of a movie for me. Never would I have 12 friends that would gather on bikes to wander the area for the evening. Maybe it's something I should think about trying to start. Just a thought. Gentle bikers. All dressed in nice clothes, biking like ladies. Ever so pleasant.

Back at Sylvia's at 10 pm and a stroll through her garden which was as lovely as the one we visited! But this one had veggies too...even plants she didn't plant..."how'd that get there?" We have similar eclectic tastes when it comes to yard art...but I don't have a bath tub in mine...not yet, anyways:)

Ok, I think that about captures that day. One of the highlights of my trip!!! So glad you invited me, Sylvia...and so glad I had there good sense to say YES! Schedule be damned! Opportunities like that don't come every day.
Thank you Sylvia and Frank!



And your house is a work of art!



BagLady




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Thursday, July 19, 2012

Unhappy Tummy

Monday July 16th
Cloppenburg, Germany
Usual mix of weather.

12:34 am
As I lay here in my tent waiting for the pepto bismal to settle my stomach I thought I'd capture the moment. It's very dark in these woods. It hasn't really been dark, this dark, much on this trip. If you'll remember, I lost my headlamp way back in Ireland at the hostel, but I haven't missed it. It's just never that dark and besides I'm asleep when it is. Except tonight. Two other nights I've had sharp stomach pains during the night. Not fun. Tonight it's different. Heartburn. Too much Nutella, I'm sure. The sell it in a tube here so I can eat it and bike. It's my caloric source:). Better than wine gums. So I do both. Guess I over did today.

So I wake up in this very dark tent feeling oh so ichy. My pepto bismal tablets are in my "repair kit" on the bike. It has bandaids, ibuprofen, glue to fix my thermarest, sewing needle, and safety pins. But Blaze is a bit of a ways away from the tent because of all the little trees and stuff in the way. How am I going to see to get there? Oh don't bother. I put my head back down. My stomach rolls some more. Light. I need a light. My phone! Sure enough. Works just fine. Find "repair kit" and headlight I had taken off Blaze the other night (when I had to move:-/). It really doesn't work well as a headlamp because it's so piercing! But it helps. So I've munched my tablets and now chatted with y'all. I'm feeling better. For awhile I had thoughts of "where in hell am I?". In the woods, in the dark, sick to my stomach, in a country I don't speak the language. How would I even get help in the middle of the night if I needed it? I wouldn't. I couldn't.

But I'm okay. Fixed myself. Inside and out. Now for 6 wonderful more hours of blissful sleep:)

10:30 am. I could not get up this morning even though it wasn't raining. Maybe because it wasn't raining:-/. But I slept and slept and listened to my book. And wanted long enough so that I could pack up in the rain! How smart was that? So instead of packing a dry tent 10 minutes ago, I'll get to pack a wet one. Again. Oh well.

I'm feeling better this morning although lethargic. Think I lost another item: iphone charge cord (got a backup, though:)). That's added to the short list this year of gloves, headlamp, red fleece hat, and outlet adapter. Not bad for forgetful me. Guess I'm doing better!

Ok, rain is stopping...time to move!



Look closely at that statue and tell me they didn't....



Same town...this is at a roundabout!

6:30 pm. Camped on the edge of a cornfield tucked a ways back off a cycle path. Thank goodness the corn is over 6 ft high and I'm hidden by it, I think.

The grocery store I found was...Aldi! They had them in Ireland too. Ok. I got some veggies. Haven't seen farmers markets since Ireland either. Or health food stores. So I asked the cashier who didn't speak much English where a cafe was. I wanted my morning coffee and some lunch. She gave me directions. I went there. No one spoke English. Got my coffee and sat down to look at the menus on the table. All were for ice cream in some form or another. Including spaghetti ice cream! I did find a crepe with fresh fruit and yogurt. That was the closest to something nutritious that I could find. Just not finding the bakeries and cafes in these towns. And no English. A word here and there. Lots of gesturing:). And I wish I remembered more from 40 years ago! A word here and there. Each day a few more are coming back.

Even though I love the paths, I took to the roads (which have paths along side) to make some time. The paths were double the distance.

I'm sitting in my tent, in the rain (surprise, surprise!) listening to music blasting on my iPod and dancing while sitting. I know my daughters will appreciate that vision:). I did it a lot while driving:). "Oh! Oh! Mom's dancing again!!". And usually I'd try to sing too. That really tortured them!

I'm having a teary evening. I think it's just all this pent up emotion needing a release and music always does it for me. Right now I'm listening to Patti Griffin (one of my favs!) "When It Don't Come Easy"

Well there's a flashing on the highway
I wonder if we're gonna ever get home
I wonder if we're gonna ever get home
tonight
Everywhere the water's getting rough
Your best intentions may not be enough
I wonder if we're gonna ever get home tonight

But if you break down
I'll drive out and find you
If you forget my love
I try to remind you
Stay by me but it don't come easy.

I don't know nothing except change will come
Year after year
What we do is undone
Time gets moving from a crawl to a run
I wonder if we're gonna ever get home
You're out there walking down a highway
And all of the signs got blown away
Sometimes you wonder if you're walking in the wrong direction

But if you break down
I'll drive out and find you
If you forget my love
I try to remind you
And stay by me but it don't come easy
But it don't come easy

So many things that I had before
It don't matter to me now
Tonight I cry for the love that I've lost
And the love that I've never found
**********************(unintelligable)
*****************
Someone who'll say what's been said before
Someone to love what you're looking for

If you break down
I'll drive out and find you
If you forget my love
I try to remind you
I'll stay by you when it don't come easy

That was a fun exercise!

Goodnight, BagLady



Many gardens have these altars with Christ on the cross. I've seen them a lot!

And here's one for ya, cigarette machines right on the street. Saw 2 of them only 50 ft apart in a neighborhood. That way, if you run out at night, you don't have to go far!



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What Do You Mean All the Business are Closed? Is This a National Holiday?

SUNday! July 15th
Sogel Germany.
Sun in morning. A first! Dry and cool all day. I'll take it!



5:00 pm
Someone forgot to tell me that Germany, on Sunday, is CLOSED! I mean all businesses!! All of them! And I didn't know that. Luckily I do have food for dinner if I have enough fuel to cook pasta. When the fuel's gone that will be it for the trip. I just have to be sure to get a cup of caffeine every morning now that I'm back on it (not to stay)...so I don't get a headache. And no more luxury of washing dishes in soapy warm water. But I only have one week of biking left. Then a few days with Heike getting my box together. Then HOME:))))!!!!! And I'm ready! The trip now has the feeling of slogging through muddy water. The joy is gone.

Back to CLOSED issue. Luckily I found public, super clean johns in the first town I came to and watered up because I don't think I would have found water the rest of the day. And maps was my other need. Couldn't get cycle route maps in Holland. I was hoping to get some from the info office today and they were CLOSED! So I limped along trying to figure out paths to Meppen, sometimes just taking the main road. A big no-no! Sometimes I'm surprised when I notice something that's just what I need: like happening to look to the left and there's a cycle path sign that I need. Or taking a break and looking up and there's a cycle path sign board with routes to all kinds of places! Being observant is not my strong point, so seeing these things just when I need them (like someone is helping me...) is almost weird. Yup, trail magic!

But they do have weddings and parades on Sunday and I saw both.



So I got back on the delightful, slower, longer, more windy, cycle paths heading roughly in the direction I need and had a very nice ride today. 45 miles or about 85 kms. I'm only 115 km from Bremen. But that's by way of the car on my map app. I figure it's another 25 kms longer by cycle path. So I think my estimate of Wed afternoon to Cornelia and Stefan's is right.

I have found the people warmer and friendlier here in Germany. They seem to try and answer my questions even though English is more difficult for them Less bikes too. Rougher bike paths, though. Sometimes just a dirt farm road.
The houses still have those extremely tall deeply slanted toughs like the Dutch. And everything, including the barns, is made of brick.

6:30 pm. Dinner done. Enough fuel. All snug in my tent with the fly open! Been quite awhile since I've done that...last night there were mosquitos....before that rain, rain, rain. And I'm 75 feet from a road, but in the woods. And they can't see me...na na na na na naaaa.!!!! Dense edge with clearing within. A bit difficult scooting Blaze in through the brush, but I persisted! I don't like hiding like this and feeling afraid of being seen. I like being ignored. WIth every car, my senses are heightened...listen...are they moving on? Hyper alert! I need to get my mojo back.



It does feel good to be done early and have time to veg: write, read, listen, go over my maps, eat, eat, eat...

So on to the next activity...whatever that is,

BagLady
p.s. excuse the photo quality. Sometimes I totally forget to take any pics with my phone and have to take a pic of a pic off my camera to have something to include in my post.


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Well Hidden!


Saturday July 14
Emlichheim, Germany
Rain...rain...rain...not raining now

I've noticed in Holland more people outdoors than I saw in the UK. And the rain doesn't slow them down a bit! Hiking and biking...all ages! It's fabulous!! And I'm not the only one cycling with an umbrella:)



This is a pic of the signposts I'm following.

This morning's ride was the kind that just fills my heart with joy. The kind that is why I love bike touring. Grey, misty morning, high 50's, tranquil farm land, smooth path, no cars...what's not to love? Only got lost in the one town I had to go through today...because the path ran into a dirt pile and construction site. But after doing all my chores and great conversation with a couple from Colorado (Jim and Janet) and their friend from Germany (memory lapse here, sorry), I cycled out in a deluge. But while stopping to ponder which way to go, read maps, read road signs, all under my umbrella, a gentleman signaled for me to come under the overhang where he was waiting out the rain. So I did. Interesting, good-looking man...a therapist I think...and he invited me to stay at his place. It was hard to turn him down, but I have a tight schedule and have kms to bike before I sleep. He agreed with Janet (above) that I am crazy for liking to sleep in a tent...certifiable! But then I knew that.

Tonight I am HIDDEN! No one is going to find a wake me! ANd I can see that there is a delightful evening out there and a gorgeous sunset and I'm tucked away deep in some woods fearing that someone will happen by. But I'm sure they won't...Pretty rough woods. Hard to get Blaze in here. TAKING NO CHANCES! I want a good and long night's sleep.

I mentioned a schedule. Yup, I have one. This is just the way I DON'T like to bike. But I want to go all the way to Hamburg so I have to set myself with km limits for each day...actually, I pick a town that I have to get near. My map app will route and calculate km...of course it's not the route I'll bike, it's the route one would drive and sometimes it goes way out of it's way to get to a highway. But I've managed to try and use it to estimate distances from here to Bremen and then to Hamburg. Then take the distance remaining every night and divide by the number of days to bike and voila! I also estimate if I should take a day or two off what would I have to do. Yesterday I went 80 kms according to my bike but only 50 by the map app...that's how much riding around because I was lost and backtracking I do, not to mention that the cycle path route twists and turns through the most delightful areas. Today was 47 kms according to map app and I don't know what the bike computer says...and I'm not getting up to go read it. Once I'm settled in for the evening, my legs freeze up and are hard to move...just like hiking. (Oh, the sun is managing to break through the trees and light up my tent...ahhhh! This is so nice. Would be a good evening to be biking:))

So I have about 175 km to Bremen where I want to be by Wed afternoon, and then leave Thursday morning to go the 140 to Hamburg. And I'm going to be back to using my map app to find the route I'm afraid. Unless now that I'm in Germany, I can find information about cycle paths. I can only hope. As frustrating as they've been to follow, they have been a delight to ride:)

Ok...beddy bye time...the bewitching hour for rousting wild campers has arrived and I'm still doing well...Yippee!!!!

BagLady



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Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Quick Update

I am doing well and in Bremen.  I am unable to find wifi so can't update anything.  Right now I'm on a German computer and having a hard time.  Will update when I can. 

Saturday, July 14, 2012

My Luck Has Got to Change!!

Friday, July 13th...and Friday the 13th it was!
Vilsteren, Holland
Rain on and off and ON and off...all day...and it's starting again, but I'm in my tent all cozy for the night, so it can rain away!!!






I have moments during the day when I'm pedaling along on one of these glorious cycle paths through the fields of Holland and I think...I can do this...I love this...I should stay. And then I get to town and spend an hour or longer trying to figure out where the path goes, where I missed a sign...did I miss a sign or was the sign missing?...retracing my steps, looking everywhere even behind me for signs (kinda like the AT:))...frustrated, exhausted, angry....checking all three of my hard maps and my app and my photo of the lastest posted path map on a sign post (clever, huh?)...and then just trying to pedal around to see if I run into the route...arrgghhh! Ask someone, you say? Why would they know where the route goes? They never cycle them! I tried that in the beginning and got these strange looks. I will say today in Zwolle when I was lost for over an hour even trying to follow auto signs to the next town, a women overheard me trying to talk to a gent who didn't speak English and she said there were route numbers down that way! When I get to the numbers, I don't know which way they are going...east or west? So I jump on the route after checking my compass to see if I'm even headed in almost the right direction and a couple of km later I'm moving smoothly again. There are the long path numbers that go for hundreds of kms...and there are the numbered intersections all over the place, and there are the red signs that point to the various towns around that intersection that paths go to. Lots of options and still I'm confused. I understand most of the information and have a map of the munbered intersections to refer to that help me, but anyone who says this is easy hasn't done it alone.

So that's one torment for today. The rain issue continued from packing up all the way through the day. It was the worst when I was cycling back to hopefully recover my umbrella that I had stood against the bike once when I stopped to read maps and signs and cycled away without it. About 15 min later I went for it because the rain was starting again and it wasn't there. My heart sank! I remembered where I'd left it but wasn't sure how far back that was...then tr
ying to go backwards wasn't easy because I was also at a time of lost signs. And the sky opened up and I realized how much that umbrella helped. And it's not just any ole umbrella, it's a Go Lite...my 2nd...because I lost the first while with Heike on the Olympic Peninsula last summer. It's actually a shade umbrella too...haven't needed that function on this trip:-/

But the BIG happening today was Blaze broke. Yup...there I am going through another adorable cobblestone village when she doesn't seem to be rolling right. She's so loaded down, it's hard to really see what may be rubbing. Is it the brakes? They seem ok. Try going again. Nope, something's amiss. I'm messing with the backend when the rack flops backwards...flopping in my hands...yup! Yikes! This isn't good. Take all my gear off to get a closer look. (rain has stopped again...see what I mean?...oh, wait...it's starting again:() The rack has sheared off at both bolts which attach it to the back of Blaze above the suspension joint! This is not good. This could really screw up my schedule getting to Hamburg. I'm on a back street in a town where I know no one with a broken bike. I want to cry. Nope, that won't help you right now. Can you bungie the rack up enough to ride it? Got 2 extra bungies and I attached them on each side of the back of the seat and hook them on the back of the rack. Hmm. That seems to hold it enough that I can ride it. Now, I need to find a bicycle shop. This rack is made in England. Perhaps they'll be able to overnight a new one and I won't be delayed too long. (Oh, I can see sun shining through the fly of my tent...but since I also hear rain, I can't open it and look.)

Ok. First folks I see tell me where to find the bike shop. Great. I get there, go in (sky is opening now and it's really raining HARD! So glad to be nestled in for the night when this happens.)

I'm touring and I've got a serious problem with my bike. Can I bring it in? Sure. Thank goodness one of the guys was comfortable talking in ENglish with me. I find most Dutch speak it but are shy. I told him the rack was busted and it was a special rack for my trike. I bring Blaze in, strip her load ("that's why it broke...that's quite a heavy load!") and he puts her up on the lift.








The other guy comes over with a piece of metal with holes in it and they're going to fashion a connector from the rack to the bike. So clever. While they're fixing Blaze I go around the corner to the Chocolate SHop and buy them some truffles. Sweet guys deserve chocolate:) 15 euros later, I'm back on the road. I think that only took an hour. I sure hit the right bicycle shop and I thanked them profusely!:-

Who just drove up? Come on. I'm way back from the road. I saw cyclists camped in a village park this morning. In the village where I paid to camp. I mentioned it to the woman in the bakery and she said No problem. So I thought perhaps it was a tourist coastal thing. It's not. You can't camp here. I don't know who he was. He was in a truck. There were these hiking trails and signs I couldn't read of course. I looked for anything that might say No Camping. I tried and I lost. Getting used to setting up twice a night:). It's getting old though. So at 9:30 (is that the bewitching hour for rousting wild campers?) and in the heavy pouring rain I packed up. Well I packed in the tent but I waited for the rain to clear before packing my bike. Actually it's quite enjoyable to cycle in the evening. A couple of miles further I found a spot near a bridge and a canal that looks like others have camped here. The police will have to physically move me from here.

Enough for Friday the 13th!!! Tomorrow has got to be better.

Beaten and Battered BagLady



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