Life on the Edge

May 10 & 11, 2013
Some field in Northland on way to Kerikeri, NZ

First, Happy Birthday, Dana!! She's my baby and she turned 29 today. She's already worried about turning 30 next year...the end of an era. How can my baby be that old??? Wasn't she just born yesterday? Where oh where does the time go?

Kindness again and again. Rain and cold...sun and hot. It can't decide what the weather should be. And when it rains, it pours! And gets cold...very cold. Yesterday I got drenched through. The rain came from behind, hit the back of my head, ran down my back, and flooded my seat. Brrr! Not fun sitting in the cold and wet. And the water was so heavy on the road that trucks drenched me as the went by. Different from last summer. This is autumn. It's cold out. In the 50's. Wet is harder to handle with cold. And I'm in a rural area with no place to take shelter. Just have to keep pedaling. Looked forward to hills because climbing warmed me up. Downhills were freezing. Umbrella just didn't help much because wind always seems to come with the rain.

But yesterday the sun did come back out and warmed me up and dried me off.

Stopped at a place that had cars all over the yard hillside. Car Clinic. Hans trades them and fixes them. Got a tent spot, shower, and breakfast!

Cold night. 2nd coldest of whole trip. Feet froze. Below 50*...the limit of my bag. Hmmm. But what a view this morning over the valley.



Tonight, after another rainy cold afternoon, I'm camped at a driveway end. Driveway was too steep. And again a shower and offer for dinner and a bed. I wasn't up to trying rabbit stew. They actually raised the rabbiting found out later. I probably should have tried it but I just couldn't. Since I love my tent, I'm sleeping in it even though its gonna be another cold night. Gotta layer up! Got extra gear nearby to put on as I chill.

Faces:
That's Joe from the marae I stayed at.


And this is Roger, a biker that invited me in for tea and has offered me a place to stay in Auckland.





BagLady


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Days so Rich They're Like Dessert.

May 8 & 9, 2013
Awanui, NZ

Too much goodness. It's overwhelming me. And I can't take this shitty grin of happiness off my face. I have to tell it in the flow of the day because that works best for this senior memory of mine.

Awoke to rain after 12 hours of sleeping. Can't say I'm not well rested:). The rain let up and I got packed up heading south down this peninsula that Cape Reinga is at the top of. (Never end a sentence with a preposition is reverberating in my head!).

I know that Pukenui has a cafe with a veggie pizza the hostess if the hostel there (when I stayed there a couple of nights ago) mentioned was good. I'm headin' for PIZZA! When I walk in, who walks out of the kitchen? Steve. Erina's husband. The guy who gave Blaze a lift. He and Erina are up there checking out the cafe. How sweet to run in to them again! After eating most of a medium pizza - reminds me of hiker days - I continue south. And I gave a destination in mind. On my way north 4 days ago, I met Ian standing by the side of the road and got invited in to meet Alison, his wife, and have tea. I went. And when I left they invited me to come back on my way past when I would be heading south. I went:). I was looking forward to spending a bit more time with them, hearing their stories, and getting a major town chore done...laundry. (It had been 2 weeks:/. I done some stuff by hand, I'm not that grubby!). So we had a delightful evening and due to rain preventing me from setting up the tent, I slept indoors. Yes, I know. I never do that! Oh, and I have to mention the spa soak I had too! Fabulous



So after much rich and interesting conversation over breakfast, I managed to tear myself away and head on down the road...about 5 kms...and I turned off onto a gravel road to check out the Gumdiggers Park and Buried Kauri Forest. John, the owner



(who was adorable) inherited this land and discovered about 20 years ago it was full of holes in the bush. Gumdigger holes where the kauri gum was plentiful in the late 1800's due to the fact that there had been a kauri forest here 45,000 to 100,000 years ago and some unknown events toppled the trees time and again over the thousands of years. The swamp was rich with amber. And it was dug up from the muck by these guys that lived in huts covered with the fabric of the sacks the gum was shipped in. It went to England and was used for varnish.


John's created a tourist business here that was quaint and simply done. You see the huts, the holes, and kauri trees still in the ground preserved by the peat.

2 hours later, with an amber necklace John had made that I bought, I was headed south again. Now I'm having issues with the screws that hold in my cleats. I think I've mentioned this. I lost another one on the other shoe yesterday so I replaced it with a new one. It didn't hold. By this afternoon I only had 3 screws and 4 holes. My clear would lock on my pedal and not twist free. Arrghh. My plan was not to go all the way back to the town where I found the screws, but by the time I got to the turnoff I'd changed my mind. I had tried biking without being clipped I and it was exhausting to my leg. That wasn't going to work. I'll need to buy a bunch of those screws and hope that eventually I can get them to stay in. Just 3 more weeks. Please. So I went 20 kms out of my way tonight, got my screws, and got back on track.

Looking for a place to stay and hearing from a local that the District Council here frowns on freedom camping, I followed Maori advice and turned in to the first marae I spotted to see if I could camp. Sure. Showers too. Come for tea...which I forget means dinner. I'm in good hands tonight!

BagLady

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A Whole Different Day

May 7,2013
Rawara Beach DoC Campsite, NZ

A beautiful sunny day. After the storms of yesterday, it feels amazing. Still glad I saw Cape Reinga at the peak of its passion. The energy if it, the amazing-ness of it, and the fact that not one photo captures that makes me hold it near and dear.

Somewhere yesterday in the multiple times Blaze was hoisted on and off Nick's truck, I lost my temperamental bike computer. Oh well. Gonna be a lot of guessing this next month as to distances gone and distances to go. I've cycled about 3000 miles in NZ. The computer was good at keeping track (when it wasn't sitting at 0). Guess we'll both be ready for a rest when we get home. But before then, I've got another month here:)))). And lots of slow days to pedal and beaches to sit on...between raindrops.

But no rain this afternoon. Blue skies! Not a cloud! And I'm at an isolated campground on a stream with a quick walk to the beach. Alone. So why am I spending it chatting with you folks?


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Te Rerenga Wairua...oh my! Oh my!

May 6, 2013
Te Rerenga Wairua, NZ

Three months to the day after leaving Wellington, I cycled up the hill to Cape Renga. The Maori name is Te Rerenga Wairua. And what a memorable, incredibly incredible, crazy, blustery day it was!!!

I met Nick, the Dept of Conservation Ranger, first thing this morning...and our paths crossed all day long. I hate to think where I'd be sleeping tonight if he hadn't saved my ass. How about the toilets at the lighthouse in all probability.

After he stopped and told me I was not allowed to camp where I spent the night, but no worries, he pulled up next to me while I was reading the info boards about the reserve up here on the tip. That was about 5 kms in of the 21 I needed to cycle to the lighthouse at the very top of the North Island. My plan was to cycle up there and stay the night legally camped at a DoC campsight on the beach. Many people have mentioned how beautiful it is. Where Nick pulled up was the car park for some large sand dunes. How's the road down to the dunes? I ask. Any steep gravel hills? Yup. Wanta a lift? I'm going down there now. Sweet as!



Quite spectacular...yes!

Then, after eating my breakfast in the DoC maintenance barn because it was windy and rainy outside, I pedaled on. Nick offered to drive me out but stopped himself saying "you probably want to bike it, huh?" Yes I do!

Thank goodness he didn't tell me about the hills, so I could be surprised. There were a lot of them. And they were fairly steep. Every time I saw the next one from the top of the one I just climbed, I laughed. Of course! But the weather was my biggest challenge. The wind gusts were so strong I had to just sit still and hold the brakes with both hands not to he blown away. At one point, they were so strong tge blew me 100 meters backwards up the hill when I let off the brakes. Most of the time I was able to use my umbrella shelter trick. Until the last hill. Then it was blowing too hard to hold up the umbrella so I just pedaled and hot soaked. Luckily I had just talked with Nick, and since the campsite was down too steep a gravel road and the weather was blustery I accepted his offer of a lift somewhere south. But first, the lighthouse.

When I finally got up to the car park I was soaked to the bone. It was gusting (over 100 mph, I heard in the news...weather so bad they closed the Auckland airport) and raining sideways. Needless to say, barely a view. The water was so choppy...woo, what a storm! When Nick arrived, he gave me a lift down to the lighthouse and the point which is a bit of a walk.
This point is very sacred in Maori culture. They believe the spirits of the recently deceased travel up the island and leave off the point to their permanent home. You can also throw off any unwanted "stuff" while you're there. Nick and I did a little ceremony. The wind was whipping! The waves were crashing! It was an amazing moment!!! So dramatic! So moving!








And tonight I'm back at the campground across from which I stayed last night. I'm the only one here. Not even the owners are here. But I got a shower and a place to get inside if I want. But of course, I'm in my tent.

The day was so unexpected yet just perfect! I'll have to come back here when the weather's better so I can do some of the walks along the coast. But for now just having biked here under my own power over hill after hill and through major winds and rain feels like quite an accomplishment. I'll sleep well.

Now I turn south and check out the east coast, the Bay of Plenty, and the other treasures of the Northland on my way back to Auckland.

Thank you New Zealand for showing me another side of your amazing land.

BagLady


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Weather!

May 5, 2013
20 kms south of Cape Reinga (the northern most point of NZ)



The word for the day is weather. Actually that's the topic for yesterday and today. We've all heard the saying "if you don't like the weather, wait a minute...it'll change". Today that was literal! It would be dry, sunny, breezy then...wham! Major gusts of wind and hail-like rain would be pelting me painfully. I learned at the first sign of a sprinkle to get the umbrella opened. When the winds picked up and the skies opened, it was my only shelter. I'd stop pedaling, face the umbrella into the wind, pull up my legs and actually tuck behind it sheltering myself and wait until it passed.


It was always less than 5 minutes. The North Face HyVent raincoat I bought in Ireland last summer has saved me again. It's the best! True rain protection with breathability. Love it! The umbrella protects my face and legs while the raincoat protects my head and back.

So for the 30+ miles I biked today over rolling hills, I had sun, rain, sleet/hail, and winds! Sometimes all if it at once! But I've figured out how to cope with it:). This was probably the worst biking weather I've had because the winds were so strong. One local I've met thinks I'm amazing for biking this hilly and windy island. I'm having fun and loving the challenge!!!

Very remote up here. I'd had my sights on a backpackers I'd read was in this last "town" (more like dot on a map), but when I got here no one was around. The gas pumps are operable. The johns are open. But everything else is locked up. Season's over. Because the wind was so bad, I found an sheltered information board across the street. Thought I might be able to put my tent up there but it's not free standing so that wouldn't work. My bike is under there though for the night.

It's 6:30. It's dark. And the wind is gusting. I will say this tent does very well in wind, thank goodness. I hope tomorrow night when I'm camped up on the tip, the weather is more inviting. Today the temps were in 50s and 60s. It's been up on the 70s mostly before that. Night temps vary. I can tell at bedtime if its a warm night or a cold night. Tonight's a cold one. Will be below 50, I'm pretty sure.


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My Marae

May 2-4, 2013
Herekino, Kaitaia, Pukenui, NZ

Yvonne, the Maori woman I met in Miranda at the campground (also met her daughter Zara) who hosted me with her daughter, Nicola, in Papakura, south of Auckland...well, she and her daughter hooked me up with her ex-husband, Steve, and his wife, Erina when I got up north. That's where I am now. Getting her wasn't easy. The road I biked down yesterday was gravel and steep...and I knew there was no way I could pedal up it. Sure hope this is the right road and I haven't passed the house. Stopped a car. Nope. Next mailbox on the left. Pull in. Go to gate. STEVE! ERINA! No, I'm not him. They live up that driveway. You've got to be kidding! I can't bike up that! It's washed out and way too steep. I'll help you push it. Ok. And up we went.

What a warm and wonderful welcome. Steve, Erina, and grandson, Harlem.

Stayed 2 nights spending a day touring the area, a peak at Shipwreck Bay and up 90 Mile Beach, meeting family, touring the family's valley, and spring cleaning the marae. I felt so honored being able to connect with this Maori family and meet so many aunts and cousins! And now that I've left my energy in this marae, I belong!







Then Friday headed out:



with Blaze getting a royal treatment because she couldn't get herself up the steep gravel road. But I wasn't going far. Just up to the next town where Erina was going to help her cousin, Ruth with a garage sale. Another night with the family (Grady, Ruth, Erina, and William:).




Now it's Saturday, May 4th and I cycled out after the rain eased up. Met Ian mowing by the side if the road and he invited me home for tea and to meet the family. They moved up here in the Far North from the Bay of Plenty and have found it more temperate not even needing heat. They're busy growing edibles of all kinds! NZ's amazing for growing fruit trees and all kinds of veggies year round.

The rain really let loose later today and I opted for a backpackers for tonight. Sometimes ya just need to be cozy.

Saw this kauri museum with a 45,000 yr old tree dug from being buried and finished off with a staircase up the inside!




Cape Reinga in 2 days! (If the weather doesn't slow me up...)

BagLady

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Feeling Alive!

May 1, 2012
Herekino, NZ

I'm writing this morning at a gravelly gated entrance to a pasture. I want to capture this moment.




It's been a quiet road I've been cycling and that's a treasure in itself. It was overcast for several hours and not unpleasant, but I've noticed my mood shift with the burst of the sun.

The wind on my skin and in my hair.
The sun warming me.
The smells of grasses, dried leaves, cow manure, and trees
The strong beat of my heart powering my legs around.
Birds chirping and fluttering by.
I am alive!



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Road Weary

April 29, 2013
Omapere, NZ

I've gotten behind in my journaling. I think I'm feeling road weary. I can keep pedaling, but seem to be tired of all the other parts of traveling: the food shopping, the blogging, the picture taking.

And given my poor memory, I'm not sure what I'll recall. One wonderful night was deep in the kauri forest at a lookout. So dark. So quiet. Utter joy! Then in the morning when my back tweaked, I thought what would I do if I put my back out so far from anything. Wait until someone showed up, I guess. But a few spinal waves (yoga cat and cows) and it was all better:).

View from the lookout:



I got there from a recommendation from locals, but I was a bit concerned cycling a long ways down a gravel (or as they say here, metal) road. Luckily I could continue down in the morning and didn't have to climb out. It's staying in remote places like that that I feel most serene. Magical place. But in the morning I heard this whoosh. A big bird flew in and landed. Then cockadoodle do. Rooster? Really? What a pesty bird it was harassing me all morning while I did chores, dried gear, and cleaned my chain. Maybe it wasn't a chicken but a special NZ bird, for all I knew...someone suggested to me.

Looking back through my photos jars my memory. I stopped at the Kauri Museum. The biggest slats of wood! Enormous logs!



Breakfast of apple, yogurt, and muesli by the side of the road. Standing up using the back if the bike as a table.



View from a bridge in the kauri forest. So beautiful.




And then there are the kauri trees! In the middle of woods with trees of all sizes, you turn a corner and a humongous tree appears:



With these stats:





I'm currently camped at a hostel. My second night. Delightful place. Met an amazing woman from England (actually the town my trike comes from:)) who is doing her first trip. Wild woman, Mandy! She spent 5 months in a very Aboriginal area (northwest) of Australia because she wanted an aboriginal experience. And it came to her. She knows about the Universe delivering and trusting. We've agreed to hook up for a backpacking adventure some time, some place. It will happen.

Today we did a coastal walk, plopped ourselves down in the deep grass and shared our stories with an amazing connection. What magic meeting her was!

Quiet afternoon doing laundry, reading, and napping. Just what I needed. In 2 days I'll be meeting up with the rest of the Maori family on a marae up north. Can't wait!

I'm scraping the bottom of the food bags. I'm out of bread because it went moldy. The gas station in town had nothing I wanted to give them my money for. So I made lentil stew with feta cheese. Quite tasty. I have an apple, an orange, a square inch of chocolate and some ginger snaps. There's always ramen noodles, mushroom soup packets, 2 hard boiled eggs, milk powder, macadamia nuts, honey, and butter (but nothing to put them on except maybe a block if ramen noodles...hmmm?). And yogurt and muesli for breakfast:)!!

BagLady




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Rugby Club

April 26, 2013
Dargaville NZ

Yesterday I titled my post "Crazy Yank" and then forgot to say why. That's how the 3 Aussie couples lovingly referred to me:). I hope to be able to stay in touch and reconnect when I cycle Australia...whenever that is.

Uneventful day for you. For me I talked to one of my daughters but Skype was herky jerky so it was challenging.

Camped tonight in the side yard of a Rugby Club. Always a good spot:)

Heading into the kauri forests and there'll be hills ahead I've been told. I love the challenge:)




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Crazy Yank

April 25, 2013
Ruawai, NZ

The countryside here looks a lot like upstate NY with its rolling green hills. The only thing that makes me realize I'm in NZ are the palm trees and Toi Tois (like the plant on my bike).




Stopped by the Kauri Museum today. Kauris are giant trees much like our redwoods. But many of them were cut down by the early settlers. I'll see some of the big boys when I get further north. They've even found trees buried in swamps still preserved after 45,000 years. The other thing was the sap of the kauri, called gum, and harvested out of the swamps for turpentine and other uses. Today it's a polished stone called amber and used in jewelry mostly.

Tonight I pulled into town and found a green patch near some johns. I needed to find a wind block because I was tired if being hammered all afternoon. Three campervans were parked there, so I asked if the minded if I cozied up with them. They're Aussies. Been interesting learning a bit more about Oz. Did you know they have intense gun control laws? They must be licensed and only the licensed individual can have access to the locked up firearms. And they must be locked up and hidden away. No gun racks in the back of trucks.

As I've been traveling this tour, people are always giving me tokens. Someone asked why I carried these trinkets and I said because they come with good energies for a safe journey.

Some examples are:

Necklace from around a Maori woman's neck
Metal snowflake
Medallion
Business pen
Laminated photo
Poem
Religious writings
Chocolate bar. Here, take this. I didn't know why I bought it, but now I do:)

And I'm sure there are more but I can't remember them.

BagLady


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