Saturday, December 13, 2014

Week 1 NZ

December 12, 2014
Winchester, South Island NZ

It took us 3 days to get out of Christchurch. April had found a route done by a bike touring group that went out to the coast and over some steep hills but it looked like fun and would keep us off the main road and away from traffic. So off we go to Sumner and up Evans Pass Rd, a steep climb. As we're nearing the top we see a sign that says "Road Closed Ahead", but think that can't be our road, wouldn't you put that at the bottom of the hill? We arrive to the clapping of a guy on a mountain bike. "Where ya headed?" he asks. Lyttleton. "Can't get there from here. Road's closed due to rock fall during the earthquake." Dang! Well, maybe we can camp up here before we head back, but we didn't get water yet. Don't really want to cycle back through Christchurch tonight. Turns out the guy, Mark, is a Warmshowers host. We might be able to camp in his yard but it's slanted except down by the river. Or we could sleep in the guest room. A couple from France just left. He'll be home in an hour and he gave us directions. We beat him to the house and met his wife giving her the story. She kindly invited us in for tea while we wait for Mark to arrive. When he does, he has another idea of a place to camp: the small yard of the house across the street that's empty and going to be demolished. Perfect!


So we set up while Mark and Natalie (I think) take off to friends' house. Yup. We've got everything we need but when we go to cook our supper,we realize we forgot to get lighters:/. (Can't carry them on the plane.). How are we going to start our stove. Dang. We'd been in the house, finding the back door unlocked but it was empty. But April goes wandering through the kitchen opening drawers and doors. Nothing. Then she glances up on the windowsill and what do her wondering eyes behold??? A small lighter! Bingo!! Talk about Trail Magic!!!!! Two very happy woman. I found I was still jet lagged and ever so sleepy. I went to sleep at 7 pm (for many nights).

In the morning we find this cute note under a rock outside my tent. "Welcome to New Zealand. Merry. Christmas. It's a kiwi! Johnny" and there was a kiwi bird ornament there too. How sweet! About 30 minutes later Johnny shows up. He's an 8 yr old boy, the owner of the trampoline in the picture. That made it even more special. He said he snuck up while we were sleeping and didn't want to wake us. I love Kiwi kids! They're not like American children. Great beginning to our trip.

Our next day included lots of climbing as we were still trying to get to this major peninsula we saw on our map. We could see the mountains over there but we're having a kick ass time getting there. Poor April was on day 2 legs. I felt sorry for her. We found a stone shelter up one of the hills to camp in for the night and put our tents up inside for warmth. Oh ya, I've forgotten to mention that summer seems to have slipped away here. It's cold! Temps in the 50s with rain and icy southerlies...winds from
Antarctica! Chilly!




But we have had some amazing views:




We decided to skip the peninsula and start heading south to Bluff. We have this idea of spending New Year's Eve backpacking on Stewart Island if we can get there by then. We're cycling through mostly farm land that is quite windy at times. And the weather is cold. So one night with the wind in our faces, I asked the Universe for
some woods to camp in. Now mind you, we hadn't seen any woods for days, but they sure would have been nice. But we also hadn't gotten our evening water. Don't ya know, I looked left and see the nicest pine forest with no underbrush. And a gate with no lock. Hmmm. Looks mighty tempting. But we need water. Across the street is a small farm with the gate open but a warning about hazardous site. I sees guy out by the barn. Here goes. I ride up to him. Could we get some water? Yup. Do you know who owns the woods across the street? We need a place to camp out of this terrible wind. Not my land. The owner lives several roads back that way. Others have camped there and gotten away with it. Ok. We're going for it.

And it was so quiet in there out of the wind. Trail Magic again!

The next night we camped near one of these huge hedges they grow as wind blocks. It was so nice and warm on our side and windy on the other.




And tonight we stocked up on food because if I remember correctly, the stores close Saturday afternoon and don't reopen until Monday morning. Maybe not true of grocery stores but we're ready.




And I needed some entertainment today so I found some playmates.



Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Sunday, December 7, 2014

Omitted photo...

This is my suitcase for flying to Rome!


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

"Home" Again in New Zealand

December 7, 2014
Christchurch, NZ

Everything went smoothly getting packed up and to the airport in Rome. I bought a large roll of plastic wrap and bundled my 2 panniers and sack together to make one bundle with Boris' help. (0mitted photo of bundle)

Then I wheeled everything to the train station where there was a cheap airport bus.


But since I went when Boris needed to go, I was there 7 hours ahead of my flight. Too early to check in my baggage, so Blaze had to stay with me. Certainly a conversation starter:)






My flight was to Abu Dhabi, then Sydney, then Christchurch...5.5 hours, 13 hours, and 3.5 hours. Entering NZ has some restrictions that the airlines enforce more than NZ Immigration. Having a flight out is one of them. The trick is to book a fully refundable flight, then cancel it after you arrive. My flight was to Sydney next month. With only an hour connection, New Zealand Air said I had to have a valid visa into Australia before they'd let me board. You can do it on line but do you think I could get the airport computers or the free wifi to work quickly enough to process. No. They pulled my baggage and booked me on a later flight after I resolved this restriction. The later flight was 9 hours later. I was a zombie!! I finally set up an Australian visa, but of course it's starting right away and we won't be going there for 2-3 months. A joke. And April didn't have to do this on Qantas Airlines. And customs didn't even ask about it. What a joke! Now I've got to cancel that visa somehow so it doesn't affect my getting a 12 month one when I need it.



And I arrived in Christchurch at midnight. Blaze arrived in fine shape. I got her all set up, tires re-inflated, and set off to cycle 6 miles to my hostel. A beautiful night for a bike ride! No traffic. Fresh air. Just what I needed after 48 hours of travel!!!



April, my friend who travelled with me in Europe, met up with me here. Her bike took a detour, not arriving when she did. But managing to show up the following day, thank goodness. Just a wee bit of a scare.

I saw Christchurch quickly last time I was here on a one hour tour with locals. Was nice to be able to bike around and see a few changes this time. The Cardboard Cathedral is completed for the congregation who can't use the severely damaged main church.






The Box Mall made of shipping containers has grown to many more stores.



But there are still many vacant lots and streets under repair. Still so sad to see. I did stop by the White Chairs where a chair was donated and painted white to represent the people who died in the quake. You are invited to sit and .... I did. And I cried.


So after 4 nights in our hostel, a small quiet house with private rooms and a large back garden, we cycled away.

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Thursday, December 4, 2014

A Week in Rome

November 30, 2014
Rome, Italy

I'm sitting here in the airport awaiting my flight to New Zealand. Seems like a good time to recap my week in Rome.

I stayed at the sweetest hostel. Great people working there. Fun people staying there. Hostels are great places for solo travelers to connect with other people. And I did. Rozie, from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, was my dorm mate and tour partner for a couple of days. She was on her first solo tour and so capable at getting around. I was impressed. From her I learned about the bus that would get me up the airport and the fun of being an Asian photographer:).




After my quick tour of all the famous ruins u spent most if my time walking, window shopping, and fretting what to buy my daughters for Christmas that weighed nothing and represented Italy. And let me say how much I stress shopping for others. So many beautiful things that would have cost an arm and two legs to ship. A postcard is $2.50 for postage.










And eating and drinking coffee of course are an Italian pastimes.












A German man, Boris, who I met in Hawaii three years ago, flew down to Rome for the weekend and we palled around for my last few days here. First he got ripped off by the Romans taking our photographs. This photo was expensive!



Then we braved the crowds at the Vatican...actually more like braving the "beggars", people wanting you to take their tour or buy their stuff. I was yelling at them after awhile. They were every 3 steps!! OMG!






Then off to window shop.






Gladiator museum next. That was a cruel sport. Sickening.






Walking in the rain with no umbrella or coat because the weather report was good.




And more eating...




Followed by drinking later...




And today it was packing...



Don't ya love my plastic wrap luggage?!!

And getting to the airport.



Off to New Zealand!! Wahoo!!!!


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Monday, November 24, 2014

Rome. Day 1

November 24, 2014
Rome, Italy

I actually surprise myself with how comfortable I am riding through a large city. The hardest part is knowing where I should be going. Google Maps is a godsend, but in Italy it doesn't have a bike option. If I put in auto, it takes me to the nearest highway and if I put in walker, it takes me up steps and one-way streets the wrong way. Adds to the challenge for sure. And that was today because I had to use walking instructions. There I was pedaling past the Vatican on a 4 lane road, my side, and thinking this is feeding into a highway, I think. Trying to read the myriad of signs and my phone...and not get wiped out by all the cars coming in every direction. (I almost did get backed over first thing this morning...my greatest fear is seeing backup lights coming my way!). So I noticed a bunch of cops standing on the sidewalk staring and I cycled over. "How do I cross the river?" Great machine you have there! A Dutch guy handed me a map...how sweet. I got the info but it took me to a bridge that came towards me not the way I needed. But I managed to figure it out. I have to pull over often and figure out where I am and where I need to go. Did a couple of loops when roads didn't do what I thought they did. Lots of one-ways in this city!

But around every corner was this




And this




And this



And this



And this



This city is built around these ancient ruins. They pepper the city. Everywhere I looked today was a ruin of some sort or another. Pretty amazing.

Found the hostel. Third floor walk-up. Blaze is under the stairs by the front door. All my gear is strewn about the room. This weekend there'll be 6 women in here, but for now it's just us 2. Got laundry fine first thing. It's been weeks since it's gone through a machine! A clean now:)

I asked the girl at the desk here where I could find Christmas presents. "But it's not the season yet!" she replied. I love it! Wish we'd wait awhile in the States. That's one reason I don't like to be stateside during the holidays. Too much stress.

So I'm booked in for 6 nights. Ahh. I've been chillin' all afternoon after biking 15 miles in chaos and walking for an hour or so doing errands. Sightseeing (and Christmas shopping:)) can wait until tomorrow.

Did have some good pizza around the corner today.




And I don't know if I've mentioned how much I admire European drivers for their ability to parallel park...but they can squeeze in some tight spots. Loved seeing this way to park too.


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Last Night Before Rome

November 23, 2014
La Storta, Italy

Where to start? Maybe I'll work backwards to cover the last few days. That'll be different:). Today I had to ride on a divided highway for about 5 miles. The good part was it had a wide shoulder. The bad part was that's where all the shit lands and I got a rear flat. Took me awhile to realize it. Ew! Not good for the tire. I was able to pull onto a side road to do the repair, thank goodness. It was easy to find:)


But not so easy to fix. I pulled the tube and patched it. Mounted it on the rim. Mounted it on the bike. Started pumping it up and it would only inflate so far. Dang pump! Don't break on me now. Again and again I try. I think the tube's not holding. Unmount everything again. There's a second hole next to the first. Use my last patch on it. Remount on the rim. Remount on the bike. Pump. Pump. Pump. Dang! Still not holding air. I give up. Replace the tube. I mount everything again. Remount everything again. I got it DOWN!! An hour later. We're off! I found a back roads route that was longer but a tad quieter, so the ride was fun. Lots of toots and pics of me. I make people smile. And that's fun. Since I knew I'd be on the outskirts of Rome tonight, I planned on a convent. Good thing. It's very congested in this area. Camping would not be an option.

Sweet convent. Lovely colors. Up on the hill away from the hubbub below.





Saw this saying on the wall here...how perfect for a place near the end.



Ok, now yesterday. I started the day at another "religious structure", Convento Cappuccini, and decided to see if I could find a bookstore for a replacement book. I wandered the streets of what felt like the oldest village I've wandered through. Can't really say why, but it felt amazing. And photos don't capture it.










Then when I stopped for coffee I asked the guy there about this back road I found that wound around but ended up where I wanted to be. No. Very steep. Take the main road to Rome. Buts it's a good road? Yes, but not for bike. Well, steep no longer worries me...that's my road! I can't handle biking on main roads with no shoulders and truck traffic. I'd rather deal with hills. And it was fun. Still no shoulder, but the cars are a bit slower. So that helps.

Met Florian, a French guy hurrying to get to Rome to meet up with a friend for the weekend. He's off to Istanbul (where I was suppose to be going but for visa limitations).


We both agreed that Italian road surfaces sucked for biking. I said I noticed it was only on my side of the road.



So challenging with 3 tracks to keep out of the holes.

(As I'm writing tonight I'm devouring everything that's left in my food pannier. I've eaten yogurt, leftover beans and rice from last night, leftover ham and bread from lunch today, potato chips, cookies, clementines, pomegranate from last night...and there's still tomato, cuke, pepper, onion, apple, orange, tuna...lots more to eat...I'll make antipasto!)





Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman