Monday, March 16, 2015

Getting Out of Melbourne

March 17, 2015
Buffalo, Victoria, Australia
Town park on the Great Southern Rail Trail

I can't change gears smoothly! New chain and rear cassette in Wellington, NZ, but it keeps skipping and slipping. So frustrating. I've moved on to Warmshowers hosts in Cranbourne, Mike and Heather, and Mike's offered to see if he can help. Thanks, big time! I also use the wonders of the internet, whether it be googling the problem or emailing my bike mechanic in the States. A big shout out to Peter Stull of The Bicycleman in Alfred Station New York!!! All things recumbent, he is. And chatting with him that night he suggested that the chain may be too long or the derailleur sprung. Ok. We can figure this out. Mike with his bike repair books and me with Google are sitting on his garage floor determining proper chain length and how to actually shorten a chain.


A couple of hours later, job done...but now I have to stay another night. Poor me. More delicious home-cooking by Heather and sharing of stories of their 18 month bike ride from Australia to Ireland, via Beijing, China. Does it get any better?

Seems to be working better when I ride around the block, so I take off in the morning.




Pedal. Pedal. Pedal. Not great but functioning. Stop for the night on the side of the road.



And folks stop by: Sue and her dingo dog. And doesn't her dog per on my food bag?!?!? So Sue takes the wet bag and drives down to a neighbors to wash it for me. Then she and the neighbor walk back.



Argh!!!

I had just written a long extension of the continuing story to this and when I went to save it, didn't the app close and it didn't save. I don't have patience for this. I'm way behind in writing and then having to write it up twice just ain't happening now. So I'm going to be further behind. So I'll be brief, less detail than I wrote before. Sorry.

Did have a visit from the cops while the girls were there. Said I was okay.



Long story short, derailleur failed me the next day. Manually shifting in rear on hills. (Getting off, running around, moving chain to large sprocket...reverse on hill top.). Don't know what's wrong. In rural area. Can't find bike shop. Keep moving forward. Meet a local triker (upright, rear wheels) in town and she hooks me up with Harry and Liz who let me camp on their lawn while Harry spent hours trying to first fix the replace derailleur with one from his bikes. To no avail.



Next day I played on the farm with Liz








and also picked up new derailleur in town which Harry mounted then gave me a lift to the next farm where I was expected.



So grateful to all the help I got getting out of Melbourne!

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Saturday, March 14, 2015

A Week in Melbourne

March 11, 2015
Side of the road
East of Melbourne
Australia









What a vortex! A week in Wellington, then 11 days here. Whew! Thought I'd never break out:). Pat Ruys, my Warmshowers host in Melbourne made it all so easy and relaxing. I had gear to fix, a body and teeth with issues, and sights to see. Plus I just needed down time. And I got it all done.

In addition, a couple that I'd only known on Facebook were staying with Pat when I arrived. I was tickled pink to cross paths with John Butcher and Anna Dingemans! So fun to have people pop off Facebook into real life. We shared stories and food and hugs. Wonderful to connect. Have fun in the Netherlands and maybe I'll see you again in Darwin. Anything's possible!



I needed to follow up with a dentist in Melbourne but by this time I'd had time to get smarter about what was going on in my mouth and options. And I needed antibiotics in case I had a flare up. So I saw the one the Wellington dentist had hooked me up with. I liked him. He seemed acceptable of my approach of doing approach nothing right now since everything seemed quite all right. And he gave me antibiotics to carry. Ok. That's done. Then, he agreed I needed to see a doctor because my popeye elbow was getting hot and red...septic. Not sure why this elbow has deformed over the last 18 months. But infected us not good. The dentist said got to A & E. Accident and Emergency. For bursitis??? Yup. So his receptionist helped me find one one the train line (my means of transport around Melbourne). So off I go.



Met a beautiful African woman and get baby on the train to the dentist. Kinja was the little girl's name.



At A&E, the woman explained this was not where I needed to be. $400 to walk in. Go to a medical clinic. Ok. She explained there would be one when I got off the train back in Noble Park, home. Found it. Walked in. Got appt in 1 hour. Went for lunch at Vietnamese restaurant. Very Asian neighborhood. Back to clinic. Saw elderly doc who chatted mostly about my trip and his horses:). Got more antibiotics. Done.

Another chore to address was my stove and lack of a pump and fuel bottle that the airline confiscated. There is a Backpacking Light store in Melbourne that Bob from Big Sky International, my tent supplier, asked me to say Hi to. While there, drooling over Big Sky's tents on the floor getting more excited about my new one coming, they showed me a Muka stove made in Japan. Very similar to the MSR International that I had except no priming, no soot, adjusting valve that bleeds the fuel line and pressure and emergency shut off. Well designed and smaller! Running on unleaded gasoline now.

And while with Pat, he gave me a tour of the Dandenongs, a hilly range east of Melbourne and another day, a tour of the coast line.


















And finally the time had come for me to move on down the road and say goodbye to Pat.




Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Thursday, March 5, 2015

R & R: Rest and Repair

March 6, 2015
Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

It's been a busy 2 weeks off the bike...or will be by the time I'm back on next Sunday. A well needed break.

But I need to go back and finish our tour of the South Island NZ. Several nights where we camped coming across from Nelson to Picton we met artisans who live in their campervans and go from Arts Festival to Arts Festival. And their "homes" were a treat to tour.

Graham was a wood worker that carried his whole workshop in the back of the bus and a trailer behind. True gypsies! My kind of people.

Later we met a woman when we camped behind a pub that had the cutest campervan. So much fun just checking this converted bus out with thoughts of living like this myself one day.

We'd made plans to do one last Great Walk: Queen Charlotte Track. It required us to arrange for a water taxi out of Picton, 75 km walk over 3-5 days, then a taxi lift back to Picton. We also needed to find bike/gear storage. The iSite center would have stored our stuff for about $50 but I felt I could yogi something for free from locals. So off we pedaled to see what I could find. And pedaling up the street, a guy mimics my pedaling. So, of course, I stopped to chat him up. "Know anyone around town test might store our bikes while we tramp the Queen Charlotte?" What taxi service are you using! "Beachcombers." Good, I think they'll store it for you. And they did! Love it when things come together...and still awed how easily it does:)

The next day we had a lovely hour's ride out through this sound. Stunning!





We had to book our campsites ahead and we decided we wanted to go slowly and take 4 nights. The taxi service will shuttle your packs up the trail to campsites on the water. And since April was concerned about her back, she opted for that the first night.

She now wishes she'd done it the next day, because she, as easy as anything, stepped wrong and rolled her ankle. Dang! This brought our hike to a premature end. Pauline, a Dutch woman hiking with us and shuttling her pack, carried April's pack to our campsite for the night which luckily was at the water's edge. In the morning, we all took the taxi back to town.






This meant we were heading by ferry to Wellington 2 days earlier and in the long run, really was less stressful for us. I have dear friends in Wellington: 2 guys I met on the Pacific a Crest Trail in 2010 and their wives: Moa and Mrs. Moa...and Kiwi and Mrs. Kiwi. And they kindly shared hosting us and shuttling us and giving April a tour of the city. I am always grateful for all they do for us!












Because it had been a year since I'd had my teeth cleaned, I asked Mrs Moa if she could book something. I also had a mild toothache I wanted looked at. Also, my bike needed a new rear cluster and chain. And my gear needed washing and some stitching, plus had to be well cleaned to get into Australia soil free. In return, they asked us if we'd share our stories one evening with a group from church. Of course!






The dentist was two trips of 1:30 each time and $1500. Ouch! He also felt my initial issue should have a root canal and crown when I got to Australia. And he hooked me up with a dentist here. (Australia is known for expensive dental costs, I've been told. So, I've spent the week getting more educated about root canals. Interesting differences of opinions.). But he did clean it up, dress it, and put a temporary filling. I'm going to see how long I can go before doing anything more.





Kiwi and Moa doing dishes!

And while we were biking the South Island, a dear friend of mine (that I went to Nepal with) was hiking it with get husband and a friend. We so hoped we could meet up, but being in foot and bike didn't give us a whole lot of flexibility. We were near and yet so far many times. But we both hit Wellington and crossed paths for one night. I'd hooked them up with Kiwi and Moa for some trail angel support. So we got to reconnect the night before we flew out. So great to see you, Apple Pie!! And I can't believe I didn't get a picture:(.

It really would be easier if I wrote more often because I miss sharing so much. I think I'll sign off here and pick up in Australia next.












Livin' the life!

BagLady

Wednesday, February 18, 2015

Catch Up on the West Coast

February 11, 2014
West Coast
South Island, NZ

"So you're the nutty bitches we saw on the road earlier today, " a kiwi woman said to us, walking past our tents one night on her way to the beach. So we've been knighted The Nutty Bitches, an affectionate kiwi term, so we've been told:). Does fit us quite well, don't ya think?

February 14, 2015
South of Nelson
Hwy 6
South Island NZ

Oh, I've done it again: gotten behind on my blogging. It's April's fault:).

It's now February 16th and we're between Nelson and Picton and I need to write. No more dillying around.

So the last I wrote we were on the the West Coast Wilderness Cycle a Trail heading into Greymouth where I was expecting not one, but two air mattresses. One that was the warranty replacement from Bivouac here in NZ and an emergency one from thoughtful friends in Wellington that shipped it before they knew I had a resolution. (Thank you Mrs.
Moa and Moa!!) So we made sure to arrive before the weekend when things are often closed. We arrived on Friday. And guess what! It was Waitangi Day, a public holiday for the signing of the treaty with the King of England in 1840, if my memory serves me right. "Don't you celebrate this holiday in America?" asked a teenage girl:)). No, we celebrate gaining our independence FROM England!!

So no Post Office open. Not until Sat morning for a couple of hours. Dang! We weren't planning on staying in this large town. Checking our WikiCamps app we see there's a place for self-contained RVs out by the river's mouth. (What's self-contained, you ask. Can't remember if I've explained this do I'll go it again. In NZ they certify RVs that have full bathroom facilities and grey water containment. Then there are places only these vehicles can park overnight. They've had a big problem with messes left by people pooping in the bushes. April and I have designed a method to be fully self-contained but have not had the pleasure of applying for certification:). But in places where there's no woods or facilities or over populated, we bag our poop and take it with us...like with dogs:))

The park was too windy, and not pleasant for camping. Besides locals told us they police the area heavily. But we found a sweet spot just back from the waterfront in an old cemetery. No complaints from the residents there! So back into town the next morning. At the Post Office they have only one pkg, from Moa. From the tracking number they determined it didn't come through the postal system but some other carrier. We have to find them. A call to Bivouac determines it was NZ Couriers, and I see their van across the street while I'm still on the phone. Go find out where their depot is, I ask April. After hanging up, April's motioning me to come over. I arrive and she tells me the depot closed 30 minutes ago. NO! Won't open until Monday morning. NO! This can't be happening. First I've slept on the hard ground for 9 nights up to this point. Second, we don't want to hang out in that cemetery for 2 more nights. Arghh! Isn't there anyone who can get my pkg? I ask. He says he had the key to the building but not the alarm code. I wait. Give him time to think. It's something I've learned touring. Don't get mad at anyone. Just put your desires out there clearly and let them ponder. They often figure out a way. He said he had an idea and he'd be back. We'll wait here. About 20 minutes later, the red can shows up and I cross the street. He shakes his head. Oh no! This can't be happening. Then he hands me my package. You sweetheart!



And that night is like to say I slept like a baby but actually I had a difficult time.

The next big excitement was losing my umbrella. We'd had them out because it was raining when we pulled into a campground for the night. April says she saw it open outside my tent after I'd crawled in. I never saw it again because it must have blown into the bushes. I pack up assuming if there's nothing left behind I must have it all. Got an hour down the road, reached for my umbrella, and it's not there:(. I tried to hitch back to the campground but there was no place for cars to stop. I called them, and they found her and said they send her up the road with some folks heading north but I never saw them or they didn't find me. I bought a replacement but it's top heavy, catches too much wind, just not as nice. April's selling me hers before she leaves.

Oh, ya, April's going home March 1st. Her back is bothering her and she's afraid it's the slipped disc she had operated on a couple if years ago. She won't rest easy until she gets an MRI. I'm thinking it's her biking muscles are torquing her SI joint.

So, I'm heading to solo Australia. She was fearful of the snakes and spiders there what with wild camping. I have no idea what to do or where to go. I'm landing in Melbourne and figuring it out from there. It will be a surprise....to me too!









The other day, screaming down a hill, I got hit right between the eyes with something. There had been bumblebees, big ones, everywhere and I was sure that's what it was. Then the stinging started. April, I've been stung. It hurts a lot. Let's stop and see what happens. Within an hour I looked like this:



But everything felt local, nothing seemed to be happening internally. I had a yellow jacket allergy as a child and many stings so I'm pretty knowledgable about reactions and the various elements. April had an Epi-pen with her and if I felt I'd needed it I wouldn't have hesitated to use it. We cycled on but I had no energy. We found a roadside park and camped for the night. Wouldn't ya know, there were yellow jackets everywhere, and I stepped on one! Now I'm taxing my immune system. I took another antihistamine. I had taken one right after the original sting. In the morning, slight improvement:



That day I had no energy and stopped a lot. Somehow we got our 40 kms in. The next day was the same. Tired. Swollen. But soon itching began and I knew I was improving.


I got my eyes open this morning! But it's done nothing for my saggy eyelids:)

A dear friend from home is sending me a couple of Epi-pens and some Benadryl. Thanks Deb Schmidt! You're a life-saver!! Hope I never have to use them but let's not be stupid.




Yippee! 11 km climb ahead!!!



Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Thursday, February 5, 2015

West Coast Wilderness Cycle Path

February 5, 2015
Kumara, South Island, NZ




Sculpture Festival, Hokitika

A few days ago we cycled into Hokitika, one of my favorite towns in NZ. Last time I was here a terrible storm came through and the bridge over the Wanganui River washed out...just the directions needed to go. Since there was no way around, I loaded up with food nzd headed south to see what I would find. I talked a couple if other cyclists into joining me. We ended up getting helicoptered over the river!! One of the highlights of that tour.

We stopped by the bike shop where April, for the 4th time tried to get her rear cluster tightened. Poor girl.


(She's spent a lot of time taking off and putting on her back wheel:( )

ICE, our trike maker, even sent a special tool for them to use. Nelson worked diligent but to no avail. It was tight when we left the shop and loose when we got to our Warmshowers Host's house. Have I explained about Warmshowers? I have no memory. It's a website that connects touring cyclists with people who will host them for free in exchange for their stories. Like Couchsurfing for cyclists. I use it when we're going to be in a town and want to take a day off the bike to get chores done. Kevin is a retired scientist and had done great stories about the tramping in the bush here, wiring as a dairy scientist, and his travels in the US. He was even at Cornell University!


The first in night we stayed, there was another American staying there, Tim Caldwell. He's doing WOOFing while he's here, work for stay at organic farms.



(I often take pictures of maps and signs so I can refer to them later.)

Also, while at the bike shop, another cyclist, David Rosenberg, stopped by and mentioned this local cycle path others had been raving about: West Coast Wilderness Cycle Path. 100 kms. So we decided to take it. It was adding 70 kms and a couple of days to our getting to Greymouth, but sounded like it was worth it. And it has been! Even with heavy rains for the last 2 days! It wound it's way u into the mountains, past lakes and rivers, an imitation western town called Cowboys Paradise, and through the native bush. Well cindered most places and plenty wide enough for the trikes. Except for one bridge and a set of boulders. For those we had to dismantle and carry the trikes through.












I didn't get any pictures of the really wet times because my phone isn't waterproof. Yesterday we were both hypothermic by the time we stopped at about 3ish. Wet to the core. Luckily we got a break and the sun came out long enough to almost dry our clothes.




And what wasn't dry got hung up inside the tent that night.





Tonight we're camped at a public toilet on town. Better than a 5 star hotel with an overhang, water faucet and mowed lawn. But the rain is coming down in buckets! I sure hope the forecast for sun the next few days is right. We need to dry out!!






Have I mentioned my blown air mattress? Tonight will be night 7 of sleeping on the ground. It's not nearly as bad ad I thought it would be. Tough old broad! New one tomorrow in Greymouth from Bivouac, a NZ sports store. I can't say enough of how kind they've been.

I love going to sleep to the sound of rain on my tent. Life is good:))

(But I think my tent is leaking it's raining so hard!!!)


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman