Thursday, June 11, 2015

Smithtown to Coffs Harbour or Two Host Families

Coffs Harbour, NSW, AU

It's 5:30 pm, dark, and I'm fed and in my tent. I'm trying to eat crackers, peanut butter, and honey for a dessert but it's so messy I have to keep them outside the tent door and carefully apply the concoction to the cracker and get it in the tent and in my mouth without dripping it worse, letting in any mozzies. Life is a challenge.

When I got to Eileen's house on Smithown it was after my longest day on the trike and I was whooped. She met me outside with the warmest of hugs, like a long lost friend and I reciprocated. I was glad to be there. Cycling up to her house, I was a bit worried about the conditions I would be staying in. I guess as a camper, I really shouldn't be conconerned...and I'm not...not really. But the town is a bit rough around the edges as rural towns can sometimes be. And most of the homes on her street have seen better days. But Eileen's house is brand spanking new. Built by her son. She moved in just 8 months ago. And beautifully designed and built. A lovely 2 bedroom with an open floor plan and a wrap around veranda (as many Australian houses have, to keep out the blistering sun and provide a delightful place to congregate). And she's even gotten gardens well established and the chook house built. Well settled, I'd say. Her husband died a few years ago, quite suddenly, and she couldn't keep up the farm they had. So she sold the place and spent a year traveling in a campervan until 1 Main St was completed. I felt like we were kindred spirits having many similar views on life which led to many great conversations. And what a wonderful cook, accommodating my vegetarian needs. Yum! Initially I said I'd be staying 2 nights, allowing time for clothes to dry and see the local sights. Arriving on Friday, we spent Saturday going down to South West Rocks and lovely shore town nearby where her son, the builder, lives. Living where she does, she's close to all her kids and grand kids. Two grandsons are living with her now because their house, up the street, is under renovation...and besides, gramma spoils them. What bright and engaging teenage boys, Luke and Toby were, one having to give up his room for me. Thanks, Toby!



Sitting down to dinner...salmon!!


I like the window under the cupboards!! Gotta remember that!


Sunday arrived having rained all night. Rain's always a hard one for me to decide what to do. When it stops I feel I should push on. And it stopped some times during the morning. I also had 2 days ride to Coffs Harbour where I was staying with a lovely Aussie couple I met on a bus in California 5 years ago. And they had a tight window because they were leaving Wednesday morning. I had hoped to get in Monday night to have 2 nights there. This rain was screwing up my plans. No worries. Eileen offered to drive me halfway on Monday morning so I could cycle in and stay on schedule. Thank you! Thank you! For everything!!



You go, Eileen!

Riding into Coffs Harbour was mostly on the Pacific Highway. This is the road that funnels all the traffic up the coast. It's sometimes 2 lanes and sometimes 4 lanes. Sometimes divided. Sometimes not. Sometimes has a wide shoulder for bikes and sometimes it doesn't. And it's always noisy. There's a loud high pitched whirring noise that car and truck tires make on a highway that is ear piercing, especially if you have to hear it for long stretches. Luckily as I got close to town I found a way around. A bit further but easier on the nerves.
And a nice steep climb up to their house:).

Another warm and tender welcome, after so many years, and such a brief meeting. Was so nice to see them again. After I got settled, David whisked me off to see the sites, most importantly, The Big Banana. I had just read about these"big" things in Bill Bryson's book, Down Under (or A Sunburned Country, as it's called in the States). And here was the original one!


Then we caught sunset at the harbor. I never tire of sunsets. Never.



I also got a chance to meet a couple that I'm Facebook friends with the wife who lives up the street. They came down and asked all kinds of great questions about my travels. Always nice to share stories. Nice to meet you in person, Judy and Barry!

And then back to the house for another delicious dinner. These meals sustain me! On the road it's a lot of salads...just salads. Nothing fancy. Anne, those scalloped potatoes made me drool. I haven't had them in years, I don't think. The ones I took away, I ate cold for lunch and they were nearly as good.

Anne had plans to got boot scootin' the next day and asked if I wanted to join her. Do I?? !!!! A 2 hour class at the community center in town. Filled with ladies of all ages including one woman 90 years old. Could she dance! Never quit. That's the answer.



The rest of the day was restful. My kind of day. David had collected maps of the area for me and had great ideas of places to consider seeing. They travelled for 2 years around OZ in a campervan before buying this house. So they were able to give me the low down on many things. Since they were driving to Canberra the following day, they wanted an early start. 7:30am!



Thanks David & Anne for a wonderful time...short but ever so sweet!!! Til we meet again...


And we got a full moon one night! (Fun with my new camera:))


So off I pedaled on my way to Yamba and meeting up with Corina and Gabby, my friends from Sidney. I feel like such a social butterfly! Here I am in a foreign country and I have a full dance card. The world really is quite small.


Livin' the life!

BagLady

Tuesday, June 2, 2015

Taree to Smithtown

June 1, 2015
Smithtown, NSW, AU

Bam! Hit a pot hole on a dirt road. My trike has locked up! What's wrong NOW??!?! Won't know until I pull all my panniers and bags off so I can see the back end. Oops! I don't think the cylinder is suppose to be hanging out like that where the rear suspension is. It's falling apart! Fingers crossed that if I can get that cylinder back into place, that's all that's wrong. I'm getting so much more calm when these catastrophes happen. A small "oh shit" and get to the fixing part.


Ok. I can see what needs to happen. I need to align these parts an d put that cylinder through those holes. But hard as I try, I can't figure out how to make them line up. I let one car go by with a thumbs up, but with this second car I might be able to use some "testosterone thinking":)).

Him: Have you loosened those screws?
Me: What screws?

See what I mean? I didn't even notice that screws were there even though I saw the gap in the metal and checked to be sure that it belonged there and wasn't a break. So with Don's help, I was able to get the cylinder back into place...and all is well. Yahoo!!! Thanks Don and Bev for stopping to assist me!



And guess what? Blaze is pulling left just a bit less. We have been just rolling along so much easier with new tires and a good alignment. Still haven't figured out what's causing the leftward pull, but it's not the alignment. It may be the cable routing but every bike shop that I've pleaded with to correct the cables per the manufacturer's instructions refuses to do it saying they aren't causing the pull. I've got some replacement parts coming to Gold Coast and when they get mounted, I WILL HAVE THE CABLE ROUTING CORRECTED!!! I need that eliminated as a cause so that I can discuss with ICE other possible issues.

The ride today has been through luscious gum forests and down dirt roads, my favorite place to ride here. Get me off the main roads and away from those cars!

I scooted into Laurieton, got some groceries for dinner and cycled across the river to find a place for the night. No Camping! Not again. Really? What about if I find a place away from the signs and pretend I didn't see them? Picnic table, johns, lovely waterway...home for the night.



Continuing north, I was headed up through Port Macquarie and beyond for the day. I'd made plans to stay with a Warmshowers host the following night so I needed to get halfway there today. Should be no problem. My mileage has been getting up to 50-60 kms a day since I'm not dealing with the alignment issue. Big difference! Easy rolling. Port Macquarie is a good size town but I didn't need anything so I rolled on through headed to the ferry that crosses the inlet. But I missed a turn and didn't notice it until I wondered why the sun was on my right and not in front of me. Oh no! 8 kms out of my way! Should pay more attention. C'est la vie!! Go back. I hate going back! Shut up, buckle up, and get on with it. O..K.....

I love these small ferries that carry 6-10 cars. This one was free to bikes and walk ons. How nice is that?

Went left towards the coast and stopped for a quick lunch before heading up another dirt road. This guy comes to chat about my trike and when I asked about the road, he said, "It's bad." How bad? "It's corrugated." Oh, that's bad in a car, but I can handle that. I'll give it a go.

And yes, it's corrugated, and potted, but easy on the bike...at first. But then...oh, no!...what's with this sand? But Tim messages me that he'd gone up a dirt road this morning and never said anything about sand. It must be just a short distance. And large puddles. What fun. Soggy bike shoes. But the sand is a major issue. I can't steer Blaze from the back and can't push her from the front. And it's very deep.








This is no fun! I'm in quite a pickle! It's 5 kms to the campground I was thinking of using and I'll never get there through this mess. Arghh! And now it's getting late and the sun will be setting soon. Time to find a place to camp. But the roadside is bush with no good camp spots. Keep on pushing. Something will show up...and it did:)




But I still had to face my predicament in the morning: continue forward (unknown how long this road is like this) or go back (and anyone who knows me knows how much I hate to how back!)... Hmmm... I pondered this question all night, but in the morning the answer was simple: go back...get on the other dirt road and pedal your little ass off to get to Smithtown and Eileen's house before dark. But first, get this bike out of this mess. It's funny how once you know what yore facing, and out your mind to it, the situation isn't as bad as you (I) imagined. Yes, it was 1.5 kms of deep sand. But I found that if I stacked the panniers on the seat, I could manage (with much difficulty and consternation) to push Blaze through the sand keeping to one trip instead of two. Whew! Was I glad when we broke free!

8 kms back to where I had lunch yesterday and on to the Maria River Rd, the one Tim had actually taken. So nice. Packed dirt. Few cars. A pedaler's delight. About halfway, I met some roadside workmen who gave me suggestions on another way to go to Smithtown than what Google was telling me. A bit longer. On paved roads. Is the road I want to take a good dirt road? No loose sand? Ok, then I'm going to continue my way. And I did. And it was sweet!

Pulled into Eileen's about 4 pm, 70 kms done!!! Longest day this entire tour!









Yup, I saw camels one day!



Another cycle tourist!!

Livin' the life!

BagLady

Saturday, May 30, 2015

Ten Days With Tim: Sydney to Taree

May 30, 2015
Smithtown, NSW, AU

I met Tim at a Warmshowers in Hokitika, South Island, NZ. He was on a 7 month tour of NZ, OZ, and Fiji. Staying in touch through Facebook, we hoped our paths might cross in Australia. And they did. We just happened to get leaving Sydney at the same time so we planned to meet up for a couple of days. His patience at waiting for me multiple times a day amazed me.





I'm half as fast as he could go. It's the best I can do.

But we had fun...the odd couple.

He rides fast heading directly to his destination. I stroll and like to stop often. He likes to sleep in hostels or over pubs and I prefer wild camping.


I cook and he orders out. He drinks beer and I like coffee. So we did a bit of it all:))




We took quite a few ferries going up the coast and sometimes Blaze had the best seat in the house.



And we found the Beach Tunnel in Newcastle after much searching just to see the artwork on its walls.



And one morning when we were camped near the beach I actually got up to see the sunrise over the Pacific. Don't plan on seeing many of these.



Lighthouse at Norah's Head at sunset.



And we found these incredible sand dunes that went on forever and ever.




Tim valiantly attempted to align my trike. It runs the best it has in months.




We found a bicycle path that had trees covering it from recent floods and locals out for a run lifted Blaze over the obstacles not obese, not twice, but three times!



And watermelon tastes so much better when shared!

But all good things must end. Tim had only 6 weeks left in OZ and lots of ground to cover and I really want to pedal all the way to Darwin, so we said goodbye in Taree and went our separate speeds northwards. Thanks for sharing my journey, Tim...I had a great time experiencing another way of touring!



Livin' the life!

BagLady

P.s. Interesting fact about Tim...he performs in a circus as an acrobat and trapeze guy. Fascinating!! Keep spreading your goodness!!!

Friday, May 29, 2015

My New Tent!! Thanks Big Sky!

May 28, 2015
North Shore, NSW, AU

Ya don't know how tattered something is until you see a new one. And that's true with my new tent. I loved my old tent. She stood by me through thick and thin, though she was duct taped where the mouse chewed through and where tiny holes were in the mesh, and she leaked a bit in the rain...but hey, she'd been through a lotta living over the last 8 years. And I loved her design. So when Bob at Big Sky International offered me a deal I couldn't refuse (and April helped me to see that), I ordered a Big Sky Revolution 2p (2 person, cuz I like to spread out). I have to say I loved my old tent so much



I cried when I had to cut her up (instead of shipping her back as a trade in)...and because I was worried that I might not love the new one as much.



But cut her up, I did. And into the trash she went.

And I love my new one!!! My old one was the Evolution model. The new one is the Revolution, where the mesh and tent stay hooked together and clip to the poles on the outside.



This is so much easier and quicker to set up and take down every day. Really love it! And I love the new color...gun metal grey, I call it. The inside has a yellowy green floor that makes a nice glow in daylight. Currently here in Australia the sun is setting at 5 pm so I'm not in my tent much in the daylight. With 2 vestibules (like my old one) I have lots of storage room. And it sets up so nice and taut.











And I was also surprised by how much lighter it was than my old tent. I don't have scales, but it was noticeably lighter. And I love how easily and one-handed I can unzip the mesh. The only thing I added was stake out tabs on both sections of the vestibule flys...it only comes with one and on the door I normally pull up.

There was a bit of a mix up with the fly style I wanted. I ordered the "porch" model that puts an overhang over the door so I can keep the vestibules open in the rain. Bob was very apologetic and I'm sure the correct one will be here in no time. It's a bit of a challenge getting things shipped so they arrive up the road ahead of me...but it's all part of the adventure.




Tonight's view is better than the road I cycled in on. I've gotten myself buggered as they say here. The road became 4WD and I'm not.






Thinking the sand would end soon, I pushed on. It didn't. So I quit for the night. I'll enjoy the view and push Blaze back out in the morning. I'll find a different route tomorrow.

Livin' the life!

BagLady

Sunday, May 24, 2015

Bush Walking in the Blue Mountains

May 15, 2015
Blackheath, NSW, AU

In the USA it's called backpacking...in New Zealand, tramping...and here bush walking.

Adrian, my Warmshowers host from Cooma, insisted I come into the Blue Mountains to see their wonders and he was right. He had an old friend, Stu, who lived in Blackheath so I took the train with my backpack and he drove up 5 hours and there we met up again. Brrr. What a difference in temperatures from Sydney! And the wind was whipping. They guys met my train Monday afternoon and gave me the grand tour of the overlooks. This place looks like the Grand Canyon all full of gum trees. Gorgeous red rock cliffs with lush green valleys. Breathtaking. The blue hue of the trees gives it it's name.



The three of us!


The Three Sisters.



Blue Mountains is a misnomer to me...more like a Grand Canyon...red cliffs with green trees filling it.



After a night at Stu's place where we watched a movie called The Edge about the Blue Mountains and ate another wonderful dinner prepared by Adrian, we packed up our backpacks and got dropped off at Mt. Victoria Falls.


Down, down, down we trudged to the valley floor. Everything is so different down at this level. The river through here wasn't even obvious before.

The trails here are not as maintained so scratchy bushes and branches leave their marks on my arms and legs...which of course are bare. And the twigs and gum bark strips keep catching in my sandals.


I've never had such difficulty hiking in sandals before. Very challenging here. Adrian is a quick hiker and my legs are just not keeping up. But I'm trying. Once down along the river, the hike is fairly flat but has it's ups and overs. Eventually we come to the Blue Gum Forest a National Heritage site.






These trees are magnificent and majestic. So tall! A bit further on is a campsite and we set up. Adrian loaned me a backpacking tent as my 2 person tent would be to heavy for my small, tattered backpack.



And he just used a tarp and Tyvek ground cloth. Guess the snakes and spiders aren't really an issue. I wanted a fire since the sun sets early, it's getting chilly, and there's someone to chat with. I never have one usually.


The fire is noticed by another camper and he comes to join us. How nice. He's a doctor from Perth (other side of Australia) and his wife is visiting family here, so he took a mini bush walking trip.

That night was rather warm, surprisingly. The valley must be why. The next day we continue along the valley. Steep red rock walls loom above us. Waterfalls are plentiful. I couldn't be happier. But my legs are killing me. I have biking legs!!!












Lots of waterfalls!








Lunch break


And stream crossings.


Further on we come to their Grand Canyon: a steep, narrow canyon some places only 15-20 ft wide. And the bottom isn't in view. We're hiking a rock ledge. This part is a day hike loop that's been "paved" with good steps and a rock footpath. Quite nice. But it ends with a long, steep, many-steps climb up out of this canyon. Whew! Now my legs are screaming.

An absolutely amazing Australian trek. If the weather had been warmer I would haves to have done some canyoning: abseil down into a canyon and swim your way out of it. Their are many up here where you have to do that. The canyon hike book mentions whether or not abseiling or swimming are required and how many and how long! Too bad it's cold here now!

For our next activity we drove out further north and camped for the night way back in off a dirt road, then the following day drove 35 kms down the same dirt road that was poorly surfaced and full of pot holes. We went to the Glow Worm Tunnel and tramped an old railway line. This was a day hike and again beautiful views of rocky cliffs and lush valley floors. We even did a scamper up the rocky outcropping to get better views.

But all good things must end, so I said goodbye to Adrian as he put me on the train back to Sydney before his long drive back to Cooma.


And I can't forget to mention finding a leech attached to my leg that Adrian had to knock off. Yuck!!!!! I didn't even know it was a concern but they're everywhere in the bush I was later told. And I only thought snakes and spiders were an issue.



Random pics...














Livin' the life!

BagLady