Last Week in Tasmania

May 14, 2016

I have to apologize for dropping the ball on my blog. When I left Tassie the end of February, I flew to Sydney to visit friends before exiting Australia all together. Then I flew to San Diego where I spent a month with my daughter catching up. Then to fill some time I pedaled from San Diego to Albuquerque which I'll post a blog about shortly. I'm currently back in San Diego house sitting for a couple of weeks for my daughter and her hubby while their off touring Vietnam. (One day on the phone with her from Australia, before I had my plans firmed up, she told me they were going to Vietnam. " Great! I'll meet you there!" Silence. "Mom....we travel in different ways." Gotta love her!!!)

So here's the update without pictures becaus, of course, business as usual, they wouldn't upload. Gotta love technology! But only when it works...which is about 50% of the time. I'll post pics afterwards if this darn thing uploads.

February 20, 2016

The Highlands, Central Plateau, Tasmania

This is a countdown ride. I fly out from Launceston airport on the 24th but I have to get there first. I couldn't find anyone to host me in Launceston. Three options all failed so I decided to just ride directly to the airport picking up a box on the way. Sure hope this works! My plan is to arrive the evening before and camp out at the airport. It's a rural area so that should work. But I'll be a bit shower-less with in unlaundered clothes. I hope I don't stink too badly.

But between here and there is a big hill. And I climb it today:). My legs haven't been cooperating lately. Yesterday was a bit of a steady climb and I had leg aches and pains all afternoon. Muscle fatigue. Couldn't find my rhythm?

The first night out of Hobart was memorable. I found a park next to a church and cemetery with a picnic table...always nice. Yes the grass seemed a bit green but I couldn't find any sprinkler heads. I thought maybe they use a manual sprinkler system. So I set up my tent. Sleeping every so nicely I was awakened at 12:30 by a torrential downpour that stopped as suddenly as it started. Silence. Looked out. Starry night. Hmmm? That was odd. And I'm all wet: wet bag, wet clothes, wet iPhone. Yuck. And again! Oh no! SPRINKLERS! No sound. No rhythm. Just a deluge of water. Then it stops. Quick. Gotta move. And now! Just pull the tent with everything in it. But where? Into the parking lot. Oh I hope this doesn't damage the bottom. Stop thinking and MOVE! Dang. I'm pulling and the sprinkler soaked my thermals! Now I'm really drenched. Over there next to those shrubs looks dry. Hope it stays that way. Now to try and mop things dry. The wet bedding is the worst. Find something dry to put on. T shirt and capris. Towel iff my sleep sac, my air may, my bag, and my phone. Now try to get back to sleep. I can't. I'm shivering. The damp everything is seeping in. Add your down jacket and a hat. Legs and feet are cold. Socks. Now throw your fleece over your legs. That's better.


I can't believe I got suckered in by green grass again. This happened on my first tour on Blaze in Oregon. Thought I learned then. Never again green grass!

The following evening I saw a family at their gate and pulled up to ask them about solace to camp. "Were you at the church last night?"

" Yes, and I got drenched by the sprinklers!"

"Camp on our property."

" Thanks!"

"You can sleep inside if you wish. We have an extra bed."

"No thanks. I'm happiest in my tent. But I appreciate the offer."

"A shower then?"

"Yes! That would be fabulous!"

And that's how I met Steve and Sarah and their boys Max and Harry (pronounced "Howie"...I kept getting corrected. Oh accents. I love the Aussie one!)

The boys got to ride Blaze and helped me pitch Spacey. Full of questions! They were 6 and almost 8. I love these interactions and connections. So special at the end of a lonely day riding. Thank you, Steve, Sarah, Harry, and Max for a special evening!


Off again in the morning. Up and up. To Bothwell, a "one horse" town. But they had a grocery store. And I needed one. There won't be one for 3 days and I hadn't planned ahead.

Coming down into town cold winds brought in quite chilly air. I layered a coat, beanie, buff, and socks on. Wish I could have gotten my gloves but they were buried deep. This is the coldest I've been in over a year! Summer in Tassie is colder than winter in the Outback:))

Stopped for a pie at a cafe and met Annie.

She was a rip! She had nothing good to say about America although she'd never been. But she slowly softened. Said her husband used to say "The best and the worst comes out of America." Well said, I agree. By the time I left she told me I was a good ambassador for America. She changed her mind a bit. But Donald Trump has her worried. He's getting all the press over here and it's scaring people that he might be elected. I'm sure the rest of the world is feeling the same way. Are we that f**ked up that we don't realize the impact even this election process is having on our reputation around the world? We're looking like flaming idiots. Perhaps we are...

Shoulda packed while the sun was out. It goes under and get COLD! I'm in my fleece and down jacket. Brrr!! Luckily no rain/snow in the forecast.

I write the above this morning. Today's worry was water. I passed a farm early in the day and opted to wait to get water. Then I cycled up into no man's land and began to fret that I wouldn't find another water source today. Creeks are dry. No farm houses. Woods only. Tried waving an empty water bladder at every car and caravan. Everyone waved back:/. Yikes. This could be bad. Sipping lightly on the liter I have left. Don't know how long it may have to last. Gets pretty scary, that's all I can say. I'm sure it will work out ok, I tell myself...but I'm not. I'm worried. Not panicking. Not yet. Later in the day I would be. Came to an old homestead that had been donated to Parks and Wildlife for a Reserve. Is there a tank? Yes. Is there an outside tap? Yes. Is there water. YES!! I'm saved!!!!

February 23, 2016

Launceston Airport

Haven't had the most romantic camping spots these last few days but cycling through the mountains was delightful, as usual. Four nights ago I camped next to a large hydro electric water pipe that pulls water out of Lake Arthur and pumps it up to the Great Lake where they then run it downhill to create electricity. They do that a lot in Australia. Other than this massive silver pipe running through my backyard the spot was delightful. I passed up going all the way down to the lake to a campground with hot showers. On hind sight I probably could have used that shower. I'm gonna be pretty grungy getting on that plane tomorrow. I wash the surface dirt off but...but!

The next night I was down out of the mountains onto the agriculture plains and nothing but fenced farmland. The sun was beating me up so I took the first spot that provided some shade: row of trees along a fence line at the end where I could get up close to the fence and a few more feet off the road. The roads all quiet down at night so sleeping isn't a problem.

From there I came into a beautiful village of Longford with its old English styled brick homes with big chimneys and stately gardens. There I ended up next to the dog park under the No Camping picture sign. Give me a break. If dogs can play over there, I can camp over here!
A bit noisy as I was in a V between 2 roads and across the street from a brick factory that went all night. I had met this couple from Queensland in an earlier town at the bakery and we met up again later today at the village green. Shared some carrot cake for afternoon tea and stories of traveling. People think I must be lonely traveling alone. Thus is not the case. I do have days that go by where I don't talk to anyone but that's pretty rare. Downside is it's always me telling my story...over...and over...and over. Getting pretty old. Gals and guys alike tell me they couldn't do what I do...too afraid. Isn't that interesting?

Today was a short travel day but I needed to fill my time somehow. I just had to cycle 7 kms, find a box flattened, figure out how to attach it, then cycle 7 more kms to the airport and find some in to store it until tomorrow because it's expected to be raining in the morning and I sure don't want my fine new luggage to get wet!

I decided to find a cafe for brekkie and hang out there reading to pass some time. Found a bakery, ordered my eggs and latte and sat outside. First there was Bob, a local information dude who shared stories of the motorway that used to circle thus town then he brought out pictures to show me what it looked like. While he was there some senior men on bikes stopped for coffee and joined the table. Turns out there's a cycling track in town and these guys were down there doing laps. A bit later I look up and see my friends from yesterday back in town so I invited them to join us. Lonely?!? I was there 3 hours having a gay old time! And now when I return to see the northern half of this country I have friends in Rockhampton to stay with. Yup. That's how it happens. Gotta love it!

So eventually we all went our separate ways and I pedaled to Perth, the village nearest the airport where I hoped to find a box at the grocery store. Oops. No luck. Nothing. All smashed they said. Ok. Hope I don't have to cycle back to Longford. That would suck. Go to the bottle shop (aka liquor store). Usually their boxes are too small. And they were. But he said he had some smashed out in the orange bin. I go check it out. And voilà! Exactly what I needed! I'm still in awe when things go right. And they usually do. But it could just have easily bombed. And then I would be trying to find someone to take me crack to Longford to get a box. And that doesn't always work. But all was good. No just to figure out how to attach thus monster on the back son the wind doesn't affect it. Flat is good. And I have rope. I had already figured out that puncturing small holes and feeding the rope through to tie it to the bike frame would probably be best. And it was! So easy. Even in the wind and on a downhill it was solid.
Virgin Australia desk said they could store it in the office for me. Good thinking, they said:). See ya in the morning. Now to find a camp spot. Like most airports this area is quite industrial. But across the street I found a large vacant field and set up there. No one pays me any attention. Like I'm invisible. Just the way I like it.
And it is raining. A bit fearful that the water on my tent will put the weight over. Don't think it will be dry by morning. Hope they'll be understanding:/

Not quiet and not dark. Airport lights and traffic. The cars should stop but the lights won't go out. Oh well. Off to Sydney tomorrow to see dear friends Carina and Gaby again. I met Carina on the Camino nearly 2 years ago. Stayed with them in Sydney when I passed through last year. Met them again later in Yamba. I will be great to reconnect.

Then Sunday I fly to San Diego where my older daughter and her husband live. A sweet treat is my younger daughter is visiting her sister that weekend so I get to see them both as soon as I land!! Happy Momma!!!!!!!!! I miss them both so much!

Don't ask me what my plans are stateside. I'm lucky to have made these plans. Going to Denver where younger daughter lives. Then on to Rochester where I used to live. That's all I know for sure.



Livin' the dream!

BagLady

Frenchman's Cap Hike

February 9, 2016. Day 1
Lake Vera Hut, Tasmania




Woke up before 6 am with the decision to take a bus instead of trying to hitch. It just seemed like it was an added complication with a 6 hour hike at the end. I'd have had to get multiple rides most likely. And that takes time.





Good decision because it was a tough 7 hour hike. It's always hard to jump from biking to hiking. My upper body does nothing all day and then I ask it to work extra hard. Even though my pack is under 10 kilos, my body is not used to carrying weight...and it rebels!


I have to say the bus ride out through country that looks like our west only made me wish I'd had the time to bike it. I'll have to come back to do it. And leaving the large rolling hills, all brown from drought, and entering the forested land was a treat. The green is such a welcome sight. The trees are big and old. When we got to Lake St Clair Lodge for the bus transfer I felt like I was in an Adirondack lodge. Lovely wooded area. Like a mountain retreat. The next bus driver was a maniac! Crossing into the other lane while trying to answer his cell phone...then again trying to read it. He finally pulled off to check it. Then he was barreling around tight curves. I thought the bus was going to tip over. I was riding shotgun to calm my motion sickness. But my fear was worse. I was holding on with both hands and closing my eyes. I was petrified. I'm sure not riding in a car or bus too often played a factor. But he was hauling ass! I want to remember to ask some of the other hiker's that were on the bus what they thought. Maybe it was just me:/




That's Frenchman's Cap in the distance



Building a raised trail bed because usually it's terribly muddy up here, but now there's a drought.



Another method of trail building in muddy areas



And there were lots of boardwalks too



It was so beautiful up here. Granite rocky peaks in the distance. The trail is so well built its practically handicap accessible. Raised trail rd with deep trenches on both sides for good drainage. Lots of boardwalks. We're in a drought now, but usually it's quite wet and muddy on this trail. I went through some open plains and then deep rainforest. All different types of terrain.


I don't have a tent because I planned on using the huts. Wish I'd realized it was warmer than the weather report said. I tried to cowboy camp on the helipad but the dew was already too much. So I'm inside. Top bunk. Sleeping on top of my bag. It's hot up here. Don't think it will be a good night's sleep. And the snoring had begun:/. Where did I pack those earplugs? Keep smiling, BagLady!




Nice hut, huh?!?!

Day 2

Quiet night insidethe hut...except for my very noisy pad. There are very thin mattresses in the bunks so I put my mat on top. It was so loud every time I moved, it woke ME up! I finally just laid on the mattress, but oh my hips. Screw it! Back to my noisy air mattress. Sorry folks!




Notched logs were frequently used to get up in areas. Easy to climb up, but awkward to step down toed in.



And old wooden steps.



Love this shot of birds I was able to catch in focus:). No, I don't know what they are.



I did this hike with a 25 liter pack...Aussies were quite impressed! (Now if I could just get my gear on my bike that low:))



Crossing the Franklin River.

Today's walk was marvelous!! Up! Up! Up! The Mahoosic Arm on steroids!! The Through gorgeous, wet rain forests up onto granite ridges. Overlooking remote mountain lakes. Views that took my breath away. Cloudy today, which was much easier than yesterday's heat, for sure. And a much more rugged route. Hats off to the crew that put in this route. The most amazing craved rock and log steps! Just beautifully done!! Lots of very hard work. The trail is over 100 years old having been first laid out in 1910. Pretty impressive, huh! A philanthropist and Aussie business mogel, Dick Smith, finding his beloved trail falling apart in 2008 negotiated with the government to fund $100,000 annually for 5 years if they put in $50,000. Some of the trail work I saw yesterday was the result of this investment. Today there were many broken log bridges that I had to walk the side rails not to fall in. I'm sure they'll be next.

An added element to today's walk was my footwear. The bottoms of my feet were tender from my Chaco sandals so I opted to were my very comfy Croc sandals. They are a bit of a challenge as they tend to slide around quite a bit. Even more so when they are wet. So I had to watch where every step was placed. That sure slowed my down. Back to my Chacos and socks for tomorrow's climb. They grab my foot so much better!



When the clouds lifted I could look out over this steep wilderness with rolling green mountains in all directions. I hope my photos will do it justice.








I didn't summit Frenchman's Cap today because the clouds never lifted. Hopeful tomorrow's weather will be better. We actually got rain later today that was not in the forecast. I have enough food to stay here a few days if necessary to waIt for good weather. And with a lake at the base of the granite rock, I hope to get a swim in if it warms up.

Tonight it's me and 6 Aussie men in the hut. How lucky am I?!?! I've learned about quite a few good hikes in Tassie as well as the rest of Australia. Lots of hiking to do here yet!



I brought a pretty boring and repetitive food supply having only a quick visit to the grocery store and wanting not to carry much bulk or weight in my small pack that I'm using. Ramen and soup every night. Peanut butter and honey wraps for lunch. Muesli raw for breakfast. And everyone else with huge packs are eating gourmet! Suffer, BagLady!

Tomorrow, Summit Day!!

Day 3






The sun is shining on that rocky granite monster outside my hut window. Up and out early. No breakfast because this is a fasting day. It starts by winding through dense forest with a narrow path cut into the rock going up. Up and up. Quite quickly it breaks out into the open and I'm in a cirque with Lake Tahune at the base. Look! There's a naked guy toweling off after his morning swim.



He doesn't see me up here. And I see the hut too. Rocks. Lots of rocks. Back in my Chacos for this walk. My pack is light with only water and raincoat and camera. Lots of switchbacks. The trail marked only by cairns. Oh my! The view as I get higher us stunning.











I'm running low on words to describe the ethereal feelings im having see such breathtaking wilderness. Green mountains as far as the eye can see. It's getting steeper. Climbing up rock faces using my fingers to grip in crevices. Oh look. That wasn't the trail to this cairn because the trail comes in from the right. Hmmm. More rocks. Using rock climbing tricks to get up these rock faces. This is quite the climb! Oh no! Fog is rolling in. My view is quickly dissipating. After 2 hours, I finally reach the cap only to have no view in any direction:( I've got time. I'll wait.




4 guys come up. Take the requisite pics. Want a moon shot. I'll take it! 4 gorgeous bare butts!! They leave. I wait. A gay couple, Neal and Cliff arrive. I love these guys. The odd couple and quite experienced hikers. Love their stories. I wait. The fog lifts a bit in one direction and I get a glimpse. Such a flirt! Over 2 hours I spend up there and eventually I get a peak at each side. I'm thinking I'll head down and back to Lake Vera hut so I'd getter get going. And sure enough, on the way down it clears. I have some great views then. Oh well. That's my Frenchman's Cap experience. Mystical. "Mist"ical.










When I arrive back to Lake Tahune hut, it's a beautiful day. It's also 1:30. Do I want to stay here, swim, enjoy the day or hike 4-5 hours back to Lake Vera hut? Easy decision. I'll stay. I'm in no rush. So I skinny dipped in the lake and sunbathed on the beach with Frenchman's Cap peaking down at me.


Ramen noodles and soup for dinner. It's getting old. And early to bed cuz there's not much to do after dark up here. Tonight there's 4 guys and me in the hut.

Day 4



Heading back to Lake Vera hut today. I thought this was beautiful fog in the valley until someone told me it was smoke from forest fires quite a distance away.

This should be mostly downhill. And it was. Down and down and down. Now I know why I was so tired getting up this the other day. But I have all day and the rainforest us so cozy. I'm taking my time. Lunch by one small waterfall. Sat and painted by another.






"The woods are cozy, dark, and deep, but I have promises to keep..." - Robert Frost


Another American guy is here tonight and we thought we had the hut to ourselves until 3 kids arrived at 8:30 pm. So now we're five in the hut. Some going in. Others going out.


I'm hoping Steve, the American will give me a ride up to Derwent Bridge where either I can get a hitch back to Hobart tomorrow or there'll be a place to stay until Sunday's bus. These are "no horse" towns up here:). We'll see what tomorrow brings.

Day 5

Heading out today and hoping the dry weather holds. Rain would not be fun. The plan is for me to head out early because I suspect Steve hikes faster and I'd rather wait for him than the other way around. On my way out at about 8 am I met a guy hiking in for a day hike up to the Cap...really? 30 miles...tough climb...oh to be young and fit! Can't imagine the wear on your feet.

I took 5 hours to get to the parking lot and decided to try and hitch while I waited for Steve. Ya never know when that best ever hitch going exactly where you want to go will arrive. This was my longest hitch ever. 120 miles! The first car to stop were tourists that were headed to Hobart, but stopping along the way. Thanks for stopping, I'll pass and see if something better comes along. A couple more cars and busses stop but they're just going where Steve was taking me only 18 miles up the road. Pass. Then I began to think maybe I shouldn't be passing up all these rides. And then John stops. He'd hesitated at first. When I can tell a car isn't going to stop I always give them a friendly wave just the same...and sometimes they do stop...and he did. In his 6 cyl BMW...company car! He had to drive across the island and back take his abalone divers back to their cars. I treat my men well! So 6 hour round trip Saturday drive. "I'm going to be driving fast so I don't need a scared passenger in this car. I know this road well and all the good passing spots!" So I said "Lets go!" What a comfy car and smooth ride. Even though the road was quite windy, as mountain roads are, I was fine. Two hours later I was back in Hobart! Sweet!!!

So glad I got to experience a bit of the Tasmanian wilderness!


Livin' the dream!

BagLady

Hobart, Bruny Island, and Cygnet

January 31, 2016
Adventure Bay, Bruny Island, Tasmania, Australia















(That's Blaze out in the rain watching the waves crash ashore.)

The rain started getting stronger and I needed to get my tent up...but where? Day Use picnic area by the beach looks good. Who's gonna tell me No? The wind picked up. The tent is whipping around. I'm getting wet. Keep working at it. Put your bike shoes on the ground cloth end into the wind to hold it down. Quick get your poles assembled and into the grommets. It's up. Now hold it from blowing away while you clip it to the poles then get it staked. Throw your gear in. Cover your bike seat with plastic. Dive in yourself. Ahhh. Not too wet. Done before the rain got worse. Snug as a bug. I love my tent! My Big Sky Revolution 2 P with Porch. The best "rain" tent ever! The inside stays dry because the fly and the mesh are pre-attached. And the porch keeps the inside dry in the rain with the vestibule flaps open. I rarely am closed up inside, which I love! And I have a line permanently strung inside to hang wet stuff on. Sometimes it even dries at night.

In Hobart, Jane and I stayed at Warmshowers host's Eric Bergemann's house. What fun! He's not a biker, but his son is cycling the Pan American Highway right now using Warmshowers so Eric is reciprocating back home. And he has quite a few cyclists there. An easy flow. Everyone pitches in with food and cooking. People were scattered about on the patio (me), in the back shed, and in the attic. Wherever we could find space to lie down pretty much. It works! He's walking distance from the CBD (central business district, for Americans), the weekend markets, and the outdoor stores.


Eric started fire with a magnesium stick!

The big attraction in Hobart is Mona, Museum of Old and New Arts, a privately owned museum of arts this guy won gambling. Most interesting exhibits and stories. Do google it because I can't do it justice. It was a treat to the senses: a library with white books and no words, a digestive machine that eats and poops, the death gallery of black water, white marble, a mummy and an MRI of the mummy, and on and on... Fabulous! So worth it!



Digestive machine...they feed it and it digests food and then poops hours later.



MRI of a mummy.

After 5 nights at Eric's, Jane and I headed to Bruny Island south of Hobart. And got rain delayed 36 hours in our tents. Tassie needs rain. And it came down! I'm sure just a drop in the bucket in this drought, but we can't complain. Yesterday we were able to pack up and high tail it down to Kettering and the car ferry to Bruny. There's actually 2 islands with a neck joining them. Mostly farm land on the north and wilderness on the south. We stayed last night at a camping reserve for $5. Quite busy with car campers and campervans. This morning I couldn't sit still another day and Jane wanted to, so we split. It had to happen sooner or later. She had time to kill. I have distanced to cover. So I headed to Adventure Bay, a no horse town with some houses, a store with everything including food, a museum, a town hall, and a Bruny Island Cruise company that lets you tour the island from the water. I met a guy at one of the beaches I stopped at that was collecting seaweed to add to his compost. He invited me to "call in" at his house when I'm going back up the road to see his straw bale house. And he told me about a 3 hour hike at the end of the road here in Adventure Bay. Great hike up and around the steep cliffs!

I'll stop in and see Paul's house tomorrow when I head out.

February 5, 2016
On my way to Cignet, Tasmania
On a rocky coastline...ahh!

So I did stop in to Paul's straw bale house...er, mansion! So beautiful! And the view! OMG! Overlooking "The Neck", the narrow causeway between the north and south islands. They are totally off the grid: rain tanks, solar panels, gardens too. I've never seen a house this big that was off grid. I expected something much smaller. Was I surprised:))






Mt Wellington from the deck.


My room:)



And what sweet folks Paul and Michele are! First they offered me a shower and since it was afternoon, I said yes. I figured I wouldn't cycle much further that afternoon. Then they invited me to tea (dinner) and of course I said Yes! Then as we got discussing things further, they offered a bed. And after the discomfort of my air mattress, I said Yes to that too. Poor Michele had an evening commitment and a morning ferry to catch, but I wasn't exactly in the plan. No worries. Paul entertained me. That evening he took me for a drive up to a mountain lookout. Actually it was a road that cut across the middle of the South Island and I had contemplated taking it instead of coming pass Paul's house. Now I got to see what I missed. Rainforest. Coming down the other side was totally different foliage. So cool to see it. It's the first rainforest I've seen in Australia.

Then in the morning Paul offered to shuttle me down to the lighthouse with all my stuff so I could cycle back. Yes! It seemed to far to go down and back, but this would be perfect. I had decided not to tour the west side of the South Island but this enabled that. And I'm so glad I went. The views from the lighthouse were breathtaking! I can't capture on film the expanse of ocean and cliffs - the feeling inside that has no words.









Paul and me.





And then he took me to Mabel Beach. No signs. No one there. Another dose of serenity.

The day was wearing away and I wanted to get a bit of cycling done so we unloaded my stuff from the back of his ute, I loaded up Blaze, said goodbye and much thanks, Paul left and I started northward up the island on the gravel road. Got as far as the lagoon and it was too hard to resist staying there.



But I didn't pay close attention to where I set up my tent and it rained again...and I was in a swamp! But sunny days dry everything out.

The next night I camped on this windy point and had to tie Spacey to Blaze.




The following day I took the ferry back to the mainland, meeting Dave and Anne as they were parked next to me. They kindly offered to buy me a cuppa and of course I took them up.




I decided to cycle the Channel down and around to Cygnet, a famous hippy town here. The first night I was camped in a reserve with RVs...nothing special. But in the morning I had probably my shortest ride yet...6 kms:). Because I came to a beautiful spot and just couldn't resist stopping. After reading and walking and wading, I started to set up my tent on the point. And...the wind came up. Argh! So I walked around to find a more sheltered spot...and did! Yup perfect. Just gotta pack up again, but what else do I have to do?











And I had company...






Livin' the dream,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman