Day 12: On Towards Cienfuegos

What a day! Longest miles: 52! Longest hours pedaling: (I don't dare go look because the bugs will get in...I'll look tomorrow)

I met Juan Carlos, a young scuba diving instructor from Spain on his first bike tour, and we rode together for several hours.



I was pushing my little heart out and he slow down so it worked out OK. His English was pretty good so we were able to have some good conversations and some laughs! He even tried to help me find food. I'm desperate to find food, it's not easy to find. There are a lot of places set up like restaurants that want to feed you a big meal… That's not what I was looking for. Finally about mid day I got a ham sandwich at a bar. It tasted delicious! I wish I'd bought a second one for dinner. Tonight's meal was a few Pringles, some olives, a couple of crackers, andbreath mints...that's a new food group! Oh, and don't forget the banana that had slipped down in my pannier. The bananas here are sommuch more delicious than ours back home. I just love them! That will sustain me until I find something tomorrow. I've never known finding food could be so challenging. Sure glad I brought some from home. I still have in my pack some noodles, tuna, soup, chocolate, dried mango, and canned peaches and canned pineapple. Since I don't know what future days may bring I feel I should save the food if I can. Nope. I just broke down and ate a small can of pineapple. I couldn't take the rumbling in my time anymore. I don't think I'll ever take for granted being able to walk into a grocery store in any town and have your pick of food on the shelves. That's just not possible here. I know there's a super market in Cienfuegos, but I don't know what they'll have. That's the hard part. It's rarely anything nutritional.

We came through Playa Giron which is where the Cuban refugees attempted to overtake Fidel Castro with our training and assistance… The Bay of Pigs invasion. There were a lot of signs about the invasion and the victory that they had here. They even build a wall in the water so that no future invasion could take place… But they could invade further up the beach:)


















Playa Giron and the wall to prevent further invasions.
The


These are Cuban beach houses.

At the bar where I finally got food I met some French Quebec Canadians and was invited to visit them at their house. How great is that! I would love to cycle to Quebec exclamationat the bar where I finally got food I met some French Quebec Canadians and was invited to visit them at their house. How great is that! I would love to cycle to Quebec exclamation.

Today after Juan Carlos left me to make it to Cienfuegos for dinner I was going to take a route across instead of out to the main road. It was paved where I turned so I was hopeful my map app had a shortcut but a farmer in a cart came up to me and said not to continue to go back the other way. I guess I couldn't get through to the castle this way. I was glad for the help instead of finding out further up the road I couldn't get through. That's happened to me with this app.

And I almost forgot to mention the headwinds today!! How could I forget? It blew in my face all day long! Towards the end of the day it was the worst wind I've ever biked in!! And yet I made the miles, go figure! The good news today is it was overcast most of the day and that was a relief.

The one thing I'm uncomfortable with here is the fact that whenever I go to buy something and don't understand the price they're telling me I know they're going to charge me more or give me the incorrect change. It's not that I don't mind paying more, that's all right, it's that I feel like they're stealing from me and I don't like that feeling. I think I'm just going to give them more money than I expect it to be and tell them to keep the change...that way they get the extra money and I don't feel like they stole it from me...it's a gift to them. That changes the whole nature of the relationship. I've got a pretty good sense now of what I should be charged for water or an orange soda. And they certainly need the extra money.

I'm camped tonight in a young forest and the wind has been flipping through the trees. I love being so alone in the woods where no one knows I am. I feel part of something bigger! One with the universe! A part of all that is! And I could be on any continent anywhere in the world. Like this they all feel the same.





Live YOUR dream,

BagLady

Day 11: To Bay of Pigs

As I cycle along the side of the road I often see animals tethered there to graze. This can be horses or cows or goats. It appears that people that have only a couple of animals and don't have land, use the sides of the road as pasture. And tethering is cheaper than putting up fence and tethering is cheaper than putting up fences. There are a lot of animals tethered here and there.






Many areas are fenced with barbed wire and then this form of cactus that grows very dense and is cut to about 6 feet high nothing is getting thtough that!! I've also seen scraps of metal sheeting used to make fences. Very innovative!


Today I saw a well worn weathered man with the cigar hanging out of his mouth and tattered cowboy hat on with this horse next to him getting ready to cross the road. It would have made such a classic photo!

A bus full of teenagers taking pictures of me out the open door and yelling to me out the window, none of which I understood but it was funny.

Busy busy Saturday towns full of people all smiling and laughing and out and about the roads full of horses and buggies and bicycles not to mention the trucks and cars too. But still I can't find food!

A car stopped on the side of the road and the guy got out to take a picture which is the first time that's happened in Cuba and he said yesterday he saw me and Mantanzas and now today here and he was amazed that I had gone that far. His whole family is in the car cameras out the window taking pictures… So cute.

A man with the big camera pulled his car over to take my picture he was from Italy and he spends five months a year here in Cuba. He was taking photos of unusual things that he sees.

Stopped in at this tourist trap crocodile place and I was hungry so I ordered hamburger. It was frozen patty that was just wared through and did not fully cooked. He wouldn't cook it more. I hadn't paid for it. So I just walked out. He wouldn't give me the time of day so why should I pay him?

Later I stopped in this area with a collection of houses with tables for seating people and I just wanted a cold bottle of water. They wanted to feed me a meal: "special offer"! A tourist bus was unloading. Bad sign. But these guys were checking out Blaze (she gets more men oggling her than I do:)) and I mentioned I needed "agua fria", so this guy signals for me to follow him as he goes up the side of the road lifting rocks out of my way asking at other houses if they have any water. Finally he finds some. Overpriced but cold and wet. He was so cute with his big smile. I get so wrapped up in living life, I forget to get pictures!

I was cycling out of Playa Largo down the road along the bay when I decided to pull into one of the resorts because I could see the water. I just thought I'd check it out and also see if I could take a break in some shade as the road was in the sun totally. Who did I meet there but the young man who earlier in the day had stopped me on the road to take my picture who I had also seen me the day before and Matanzas. How cool is that?!? What are the chances I stop into the one resort where he was staying? And what are the chances he'd be out and about when I did? He introduced me to his little son too. He's a computer fixer in Matanzus. Says that since they've been allowed to have their own businesses things have gotten much better in Cuba. He owns a car and can afford vacations. He loves his country! We're gonna be Facebook friends:)



I'm getting a bit nervous about the food I'm eating.. I went to a little lady's stand today in Playa Larga for lunch. I had really good potato balls with ground beef inside. But I also ordered lemonade and I don't know what water it was made with and I ordered a hamburger and have no idea what I ate! I think it was raw hamburger with some kind of coating on it. It was served with tomato and cabbage. Tasted really good! But I'm nervous. Hopefully I have enough metronidazole with me in case I do get Giardia.

I'm going to camp tonight on the beach at Bay of Pigs. I found a secluded spot. For dinner I have banana and pineapple. And Pringles! Hope that's enough. Oh and I had some crackers and olives. Yum! As I watched the sun set over the water I thought of all the times I've camped at the water's edge watching the sun go down. It's been quite a lot over the years! One of my favorite places to spend a night!! Lucky me!!!!!!






Live YOUR dream,

BagLady

Day 10: Heading South from Matanzas

I had a great dinner last night. Spaghetti with tuna. It was quite delicious and with bottled water only $5.25. I've learned that many places especially on the little towns I'm passing through are overcharging me for drinks. And they're still cheap at $0.50 for water or soda. Locals pay $0.08. But that's okay. They need the money.

I tried to get and early start this morning but didn't hit the road until 8:45. I was up at 6:30! But when I went upstairs to the terrace for breakfast I'm at the American woman and her Canadian boyfriend. When they went and sat at another table I asked him if they join me, I really would enjoy being able to speak English with someone. So they did! And that's why I was late getting out of there.






It felt good to be back on the road especially once I was out in the country. I find the cities here very noisy…trucks and motorbikes and beeping. The country roads are much more pleasant although today was full of trucks and lots of horses and carts. I see so much stuff during the day and by the end of the day I can't remember any of it. Today was one of those days. But I do remember is having intestinal issue and no place to go. Even though I'm in the country there seems to be people, someone in sight, everywhere. And there was only pastureland and no woods to go in. Even though I'm in the country there seems to be someone everywhere. And there was only pastureland and no woods to go in. I was getting desperate! I hope this isn't too much information, but I pulled into a cement covered bus stop waiting area. Again remember I'm in the country. So I turned Blaze sideways to block the view and pulled out my little pot and a plastic bag did my camping trick. Thank goodness I've perfected that! I really didn't want to be seen squatting out in the fields by the cars and trucks going by. I have not seen a public bathroom or the sign for one anywhere. And the towns I'm going through don't even have restaurants...they just have food counters out a doorway. I felt better and so I don't think it was the start of a bug. Probably too much orange soda:). Trials and tribulations of being homeless and not wishing to offend anyone.







I got my share of sun today even with a jacket on and capris. Tonight I have chills in my tent. I'm not sure how I'm going to manage more sun tomorrow. Sunscreen everywhere and the jacket and capris on first thing in the morning. I'm getting burned even through my clothing.

One thing that's really bothering me here is how abused the horses are. They are out trotting long distances in the hot sun often being whipped or hit with a stick. They are left to stand in the sun with their harness and buggy attached. I don't mind that they have to work for their keep but I wish they were cared for better. Today a horse was really bothered by my flags and my bike and didn't want to come close. I moved way off the road took my flags down but that didn't seem to help. The young man continue to thrash the horse with a big stick trying to bang his legs in the horse just did not want to go forward. I kept saying "be gentle" and covering my eyes. We finally got out of the cart and went to the horses head and lead him past me. I was sick I caused him to be whipped. He was just afraid. The dogs here also look poorly cared for and often mangy. I also noticed when I was at someone's house and went to pet the dog that I was told "no don't do that". So animals are treated differently here and some of that I don't like.

I'm camped tonight in among some trees and everyone knows I'm here. But that's a good thing. I don't think anyone will bother me tonight. I'm pretty bushed although finally feeling warm. I have to figure out something to eat for dinner. Everything has been really amazing except the food and the sun. It's Friday night let's see if things quiet down. The horses are still trotting up and down the road. I feel like I'm a bit in Amish country!!

i just remembered something that happened today that I wanted to share. I saw an organic farm. I recognized it by the word "Organopornica" on a sign. So I turned around and went back. They spoke a little English and I got some plantains to sample and take with me. Beautiful gardens! They sell they're produce in Matanzas.



What a beautiful sight!



Lovely woman who work on the organic farm



Plantains they gave me!



There is nothing that compares to food raised organically and received right from the farm. The best flavor ever!!


Live YOUR dream,

BagLady

Day 9: Rest Day in Matanzas

I didn't plan on taking a day off, it just happened. I guess I just needed a day out of the sun and time to walk around this city. I was told last night that all the rooms are full because of all the tourists walking around the city today I didn't see any of them. I'm still having a hard time finding food. Often times it's sold over a counter in a little window of a building and it just makes me nervous that I'm going to get sick. I'm probably going to get sick from the water anyway since I haven't been filtering it. I did buy some tomatoes, onions, garlic, and a pineapple from a little stand today...$0.24 That's to take with me on the road tomorrow. 




A store selling some goods and cleaning supplies. They seem to sell whatever they can get their hands on.




Down on the water front.



Found some fabulous statues down by the water.











In my tour of the city today I saw all the bridges that the town is known for, I also saw all the garbage it's washed ashore down by the water. Disgusting! It was a lovely promenade along one of the rivers with metal sculptures lining the sidewalk (see photos above) and classical music being played by a piano out one of the windows. That was a special moment!

After coming back to my room to cool off in the air conditioning I think I'm going to venture out to find some lunch. 


Im sitting in Plaza de la Libertad watching the world go by. There are young girls in their school uniforms of white blouses and cranberry short skirts; lots of people chatting in groups on every street; buses, taxis, noisy and smokey motorcycles; people walking with bundles; and others like me finding a shady bench to sit on. There's 6 young adults across from me all with grey shirts on who came out of a building carrying a plastic cups of food. It looks like cole slaw, but I don't really have a clue. So many questions. So few answers. 


It's cloudy now and that's a reprieve. The sun is brutal even at 9 am. I sure hope there are shade trees along my route south these next few days.

I went looking for lunch and I found boxed mango juice. Oh my, can Del Monte put any more sugar in there?!?! I couldn't finish it. I think I just need some orange soda...not as sweet and I like the fizz in this heat. Guess I lost my appetite but I should scope out someplace for dinner.

Just hanging out in Matanzas.

Store with the most food I'd seen. Littke did I know that I'd never find this same food again the rest of the month.



Live YOUR dream,

BagLady

Day 8: On to Matanzas

On the motorcycles, the adults wear helmets and the kids never do. How strange is that?

I'm spooking the horses. Afraid someone is going to get hurt. I stop and stay still. Then if necessary I take down my flags.

Well they don't make these ultralight umbrellas like they used to. My old GoLite was indestructible. Wind turned it inside out or blew it sideways and it never broke a spoke. My new one that I thought was the same has broken 3 spines already...2 since getting to Cuba. Not the same strong material. I'm not happy. The sun is brutal here. I'm sweating my pants off with
a jacket and pants on. But my umbrella is on its last legs and I'll want it, I think, when it rains.

Food is an issue. Not finding anything in the government stores to eat. Last night I ate some tofu that I brought and some cookies. Today more tofu and an orange soda because it was cold. Does that qualify as fruit? I'm back on the Highway Via Blanca and off the back roads. I hope to find some food. Bread and meat maybe all I can get. Tonight Matanzas and I'll eat there!

It's 1 o'clock and I've gone only 12 miles. Lots of stopping when I find a spot of shade. I found a little outdoor shaded restaurant. Looks Italian with the wine bottles on the red tablecloths. I ordered something shrimp but the price is $6 so it's expensive for Cuba. Better be good! I'm hungry!!! Oh my! It's beautiful! Garlic grilled shrimp, a pile of rice, something I think is plantains, a slice of tomato with shredded cabbage on it. Delicious!



Yum!



Blaze in the shade



Sweet restaurant because I'm on a major roadway.

I pushed on after lunch into a very old city with narrow streets and my gps deciding to act up. I had stopped to read some notes about the city and figure out where I would head. I decided I'd head towards the only hotel in town and see if I could find a Casa particulare.


A bridge coming into Matanzas



View up the river.

Going up this narrow street I spotted a hostel so decided to stop. A woman told me it was full but she would see if the owner could find me a place. Right now I'm sitting in the most beautiful courtyard sipping fresh pineapple juice, with the kitchen, dining, everything outside and the rooms opening into it.










Feels very Mexican. Through much difficulty on my part I understand that the owner is calling around town to find me a room. She's going through a stack of business cards an inch thick. I finally understand she has a place and something will happen in an hour. Bits and pieces are understood.

Then this young man shows up on a bike and I'm to follow him. His English is pretty good. That helps. So, off we go. And he gets to see and hear all the attention I get. He's laughing! We're quite a spectacle as I follow him through the city. This hostel is near the city center and quite nice although not as lovely as the other. My room is in the back. Nothing special but has a/c. Because there are no outside windows:(.




My room


The courtyard...I'm at the back



The kitchen area.

After getting Blaze settled into the garage and me a shower, I head down to the town Plaza where there is WiFi. I want to try uploading blog posts. Big mistake. They load without pictures. Argh!!!! That's it. I'm not uploading any more until I get this figured out. I don't do all this work just to have it not load. The pictures are a big part of the story here.

I found a "supermarket". Disappointment. Some crunchy something in bags, canned milk and powered milk, canned fruit, bottled mushrooms and canned olives, canned peas and canned corn, cookies, and Pringles. Also lots of umbrella strollers and cleaning supplies...and alcohol! Some hair products and deodorant. I walk out with canned olives, canned pineapple, cookies, and Pringles...$14. For real! Not cheap at the supermarket.

Then off for some pizza for $4 at a restaurant. Every time I order cold water lately they pour it. It's not always bottled and I don't carry my filter with me. Thirst is really bad here. I'm thirsty all the time and I don't like the taste of any of the water. Even the bottled water. I think that's why am so thirsty :-) I've gotten to drinking orange soda, even though it's full of sugar. It tastes good and gives me energy.



Isn't he a ham?!?



The street of my hostel.



The town square



Veggies sold from the cart.


Store with anything you might need.


Love the flag print. Saw it a lot.


Another corner of the town square.




Fast food restaurant


Live YOUR dream,

BagLady