Day 10: Heading South from Matanzas

I had a great dinner last night. Spaghetti with tuna. It was quite delicious and with bottled water only $5.25. I've learned that many places especially on the little towns I'm passing through are overcharging me for drinks. And they're still cheap at $0.50 for water or soda. Locals pay $0.08. But that's okay. They need the money.

I tried to get and early start this morning but didn't hit the road until 8:45. I was up at 6:30! But when I went upstairs to the terrace for breakfast I'm at the American woman and her Canadian boyfriend. When they went and sat at another table I asked him if they join me, I really would enjoy being able to speak English with someone. So they did! And that's why I was late getting out of there.






It felt good to be back on the road especially once I was out in the country. I find the cities here very noisy…trucks and motorbikes and beeping. The country roads are much more pleasant although today was full of trucks and lots of horses and carts. I see so much stuff during the day and by the end of the day I can't remember any of it. Today was one of those days. But I do remember is having intestinal issue and no place to go. Even though I'm in the country there seems to be people, someone in sight, everywhere. And there was only pastureland and no woods to go in. Even though I'm in the country there seems to be someone everywhere. And there was only pastureland and no woods to go in. I was getting desperate! I hope this isn't too much information, but I pulled into a cement covered bus stop waiting area. Again remember I'm in the country. So I turned Blaze sideways to block the view and pulled out my little pot and a plastic bag did my camping trick. Thank goodness I've perfected that! I really didn't want to be seen squatting out in the fields by the cars and trucks going by. I have not seen a public bathroom or the sign for one anywhere. And the towns I'm going through don't even have restaurants...they just have food counters out a doorway. I felt better and so I don't think it was the start of a bug. Probably too much orange soda:). Trials and tribulations of being homeless and not wishing to offend anyone.







I got my share of sun today even with a jacket on and capris. Tonight I have chills in my tent. I'm not sure how I'm going to manage more sun tomorrow. Sunscreen everywhere and the jacket and capris on first thing in the morning. I'm getting burned even through my clothing.

One thing that's really bothering me here is how abused the horses are. They are out trotting long distances in the hot sun often being whipped or hit with a stick. They are left to stand in the sun with their harness and buggy attached. I don't mind that they have to work for their keep but I wish they were cared for better. Today a horse was really bothered by my flags and my bike and didn't want to come close. I moved way off the road took my flags down but that didn't seem to help. The young man continue to thrash the horse with a big stick trying to bang his legs in the horse just did not want to go forward. I kept saying "be gentle" and covering my eyes. We finally got out of the cart and went to the horses head and lead him past me. I was sick I caused him to be whipped. He was just afraid. The dogs here also look poorly cared for and often mangy. I also noticed when I was at someone's house and went to pet the dog that I was told "no don't do that". So animals are treated differently here and some of that I don't like.

I'm camped tonight in among some trees and everyone knows I'm here. But that's a good thing. I don't think anyone will bother me tonight. I'm pretty bushed although finally feeling warm. I have to figure out something to eat for dinner. Everything has been really amazing except the food and the sun. It's Friday night let's see if things quiet down. The horses are still trotting up and down the road. I feel like I'm a bit in Amish country!!

i just remembered something that happened today that I wanted to share. I saw an organic farm. I recognized it by the word "Organopornica" on a sign. So I turned around and went back. They spoke a little English and I got some plantains to sample and take with me. Beautiful gardens! They sell they're produce in Matanzas.



What a beautiful sight!



Lovely woman who work on the organic farm



Plantains they gave me!



There is nothing that compares to food raised organically and received right from the farm. The best flavor ever!!


Live YOUR dream,

BagLady

Day 9: Rest Day in Matanzas

I didn't plan on taking a day off, it just happened. I guess I just needed a day out of the sun and time to walk around this city. I was told last night that all the rooms are full because of all the tourists walking around the city today I didn't see any of them. I'm still having a hard time finding food. Often times it's sold over a counter in a little window of a building and it just makes me nervous that I'm going to get sick. I'm probably going to get sick from the water anyway since I haven't been filtering it. I did buy some tomatoes, onions, garlic, and a pineapple from a little stand today...$0.24 That's to take with me on the road tomorrow. 




A store selling some goods and cleaning supplies. They seem to sell whatever they can get their hands on.




Down on the water front.



Found some fabulous statues down by the water.











In my tour of the city today I saw all the bridges that the town is known for, I also saw all the garbage it's washed ashore down by the water. Disgusting! It was a lovely promenade along one of the rivers with metal sculptures lining the sidewalk (see photos above) and classical music being played by a piano out one of the windows. That was a special moment!

After coming back to my room to cool off in the air conditioning I think I'm going to venture out to find some lunch. 


Im sitting in Plaza de la Libertad watching the world go by. There are young girls in their school uniforms of white blouses and cranberry short skirts; lots of people chatting in groups on every street; buses, taxis, noisy and smokey motorcycles; people walking with bundles; and others like me finding a shady bench to sit on. There's 6 young adults across from me all with grey shirts on who came out of a building carrying a plastic cups of food. It looks like cole slaw, but I don't really have a clue. So many questions. So few answers. 


It's cloudy now and that's a reprieve. The sun is brutal even at 9 am. I sure hope there are shade trees along my route south these next few days.

I went looking for lunch and I found boxed mango juice. Oh my, can Del Monte put any more sugar in there?!?! I couldn't finish it. I think I just need some orange soda...not as sweet and I like the fizz in this heat. Guess I lost my appetite but I should scope out someplace for dinner.

Just hanging out in Matanzas.

Store with the most food I'd seen. Littke did I know that I'd never find this same food again the rest of the month.



Live YOUR dream,

BagLady

Day 8: On to Matanzas

On the motorcycles, the adults wear helmets and the kids never do. How strange is that?

I'm spooking the horses. Afraid someone is going to get hurt. I stop and stay still. Then if necessary I take down my flags.

Well they don't make these ultralight umbrellas like they used to. My old GoLite was indestructible. Wind turned it inside out or blew it sideways and it never broke a spoke. My new one that I thought was the same has broken 3 spines already...2 since getting to Cuba. Not the same strong material. I'm not happy. The sun is brutal here. I'm sweating my pants off with
a jacket and pants on. But my umbrella is on its last legs and I'll want it, I think, when it rains.

Food is an issue. Not finding anything in the government stores to eat. Last night I ate some tofu that I brought and some cookies. Today more tofu and an orange soda because it was cold. Does that qualify as fruit? I'm back on the Highway Via Blanca and off the back roads. I hope to find some food. Bread and meat maybe all I can get. Tonight Matanzas and I'll eat there!

It's 1 o'clock and I've gone only 12 miles. Lots of stopping when I find a spot of shade. I found a little outdoor shaded restaurant. Looks Italian with the wine bottles on the red tablecloths. I ordered something shrimp but the price is $6 so it's expensive for Cuba. Better be good! I'm hungry!!! Oh my! It's beautiful! Garlic grilled shrimp, a pile of rice, something I think is plantains, a slice of tomato with shredded cabbage on it. Delicious!



Yum!



Blaze in the shade



Sweet restaurant because I'm on a major roadway.

I pushed on after lunch into a very old city with narrow streets and my gps deciding to act up. I had stopped to read some notes about the city and figure out where I would head. I decided I'd head towards the only hotel in town and see if I could find a Casa particulare.


A bridge coming into Matanzas



View up the river.

Going up this narrow street I spotted a hostel so decided to stop. A woman told me it was full but she would see if the owner could find me a place. Right now I'm sitting in the most beautiful courtyard sipping fresh pineapple juice, with the kitchen, dining, everything outside and the rooms opening into it.










Feels very Mexican. Through much difficulty on my part I understand that the owner is calling around town to find me a room. She's going through a stack of business cards an inch thick. I finally understand she has a place and something will happen in an hour. Bits and pieces are understood.

Then this young man shows up on a bike and I'm to follow him. His English is pretty good. That helps. So, off we go. And he gets to see and hear all the attention I get. He's laughing! We're quite a spectacle as I follow him through the city. This hostel is near the city center and quite nice although not as lovely as the other. My room is in the back. Nothing special but has a/c. Because there are no outside windows:(.




My room


The courtyard...I'm at the back



The kitchen area.

After getting Blaze settled into the garage and me a shower, I head down to the town Plaza where there is WiFi. I want to try uploading blog posts. Big mistake. They load without pictures. Argh!!!! That's it. I'm not uploading any more until I get this figured out. I don't do all this work just to have it not load. The pictures are a big part of the story here.

I found a "supermarket". Disappointment. Some crunchy something in bags, canned milk and powered milk, canned fruit, bottled mushrooms and canned olives, canned peas and canned corn, cookies, and Pringles. Also lots of umbrella strollers and cleaning supplies...and alcohol! Some hair products and deodorant. I walk out with canned olives, canned pineapple, cookies, and Pringles...$14. For real! Not cheap at the supermarket.

Then off for some pizza for $4 at a restaurant. Every time I order cold water lately they pour it. It's not always bottled and I don't carry my filter with me. Thirst is really bad here. I'm thirsty all the time and I don't like the taste of any of the water. Even the bottled water. I think that's why am so thirsty :-) I've gotten to drinking orange soda, even though it's full of sugar. It tastes good and gives me energy.



Isn't he a ham?!?



The street of my hostel.



The town square



Veggies sold from the cart.


Store with anything you might need.


Love the flag print. Saw it a lot.


Another corner of the town square.




Fast food restaurant


Live YOUR dream,

BagLady

North Shore of Cuba

There are so many scenes each day that are unusual and I forget to mention them. The guys on the veranda in Havana repairing mattress springs. The guy carrying his bird in a cage back from the beach with his daughter.

I'm feeling a deep loneliness here. Hard to connect without much language. A feeling of how much richer it would be to be sharing this experience with someone. Laughter. Planning. Maybe it will pass as time goes by.

I'm sitting in the courtyard having morning tea and Barbara just let the dog out onto the street to do his business. No poop scooping here:)

I finished my tea, packed up and moved on. I thought perhaps I was holding her up from leaving her house and I had to make some miles today.

At least that was the plan. I think I did 20 miles. The wind and sun are my excuse. Also I met some fellow travelers: Adrien from France and his girlfriend, Ana from Argentina.




They've also been on the road 3 years through South America. They were the most economical cyclists I've ever seen with plastic containers with the lids sliced away for panniers.


She had 4 containers and he 2. He had a great design of these wire folding baskets that folded flat when not in use. Some clever thinking. We just sat on the side of the road, Ana pulled out tiny folding stools and we had a cyclists meeting while trucks and horse drawn carts went by. Their English was quite good so we could converse and share the magic of this life we lead.
And of course they had to sit on Blaze.



But also we had to go our separate ways: me to the east and them towards La Habana and their flight to Mexico in a couple of days. Mexico is where they can sell their jewelry and sorta settle down. Adrien told me about Casa de Ciclista that are in different countries where touring cyclists can stop for months at a time if desired. There's a gathering coming up of touring cyclists at one somewhere but I'll have to Google that when I can.

Another hot, sunny, windy day. My skin is suffering. Today I actually put on a jacket and capris to get some shelter from the sun. But then I overheat without air on my skin. What a dilemma. But although slow, cycling into the wind sure helps to cool me down.

I passed a ton of horse-drawn carts today.









And tractors too!



I've been taking back country roads and there are no services on these. In the middle of the afternoon I saw a handmade signed for a restaurant around the corner so I went that way. I finally found a counter with drinks and pizza and hamburgers. I was really thirsty for cold water and when she just poured it out of a used bottle I didn't go running to.
my bike for my filter. I hope that wasn't a mistake. I didn't filter my first gulp last night either. I have to pay closer attention, although supposedly the water is okay. I guess I'm testing it. A friend said there was bottled water everywhere...she lied! Not in the rural areas I'm traveling. Glad I brought this new Grayle filter as its easy to use.
So I had pizza con jambon, no quesa...pizza with ham, no cheese. I think it was Spam!



Eating healthy here is as challenging as in our south. I'm working really hard at staying off dairy here. But eating some meat.

Some of the roads Maps.me is sending me down are a bit rough!






But some spectacular views.



And unusual houses.



And little friends.



So tonight is my first wild camping and I'm at the formal entryway to something but I don't know what.


Quite a few people have gone past and I wave and say "Hola" to be friendly. They smile and wave. So I guess I'm good. I feel totally safe here in the country but I did lock my bike to a fence post. And I'm so happy back in my tent listening to the birds and feeling the tropical breezes. And each day I figure out how to stumble around making my needs known. Everyone is so kind and helpful. It's getting easier! Whew! Off to rest and read and sleep.


Live YOUR dream,

BagLady