Day 8: On to Matanzas

On the motorcycles, the adults wear helmets and the kids never do. How strange is that?

I'm spooking the horses. Afraid someone is going to get hurt. I stop and stay still. Then if necessary I take down my flags.

Well they don't make these ultralight umbrellas like they used to. My old GoLite was indestructible. Wind turned it inside out or blew it sideways and it never broke a spoke. My new one that I thought was the same has broken 3 spines already...2 since getting to Cuba. Not the same strong material. I'm not happy. The sun is brutal here. I'm sweating my pants off with
a jacket and pants on. But my umbrella is on its last legs and I'll want it, I think, when it rains.

Food is an issue. Not finding anything in the government stores to eat. Last night I ate some tofu that I brought and some cookies. Today more tofu and an orange soda because it was cold. Does that qualify as fruit? I'm back on the Highway Via Blanca and off the back roads. I hope to find some food. Bread and meat maybe all I can get. Tonight Matanzas and I'll eat there!

It's 1 o'clock and I've gone only 12 miles. Lots of stopping when I find a spot of shade. I found a little outdoor shaded restaurant. Looks Italian with the wine bottles on the red tablecloths. I ordered something shrimp but the price is $6 so it's expensive for Cuba. Better be good! I'm hungry!!! Oh my! It's beautiful! Garlic grilled shrimp, a pile of rice, something I think is plantains, a slice of tomato with shredded cabbage on it. Delicious!



Yum!



Blaze in the shade



Sweet restaurant because I'm on a major roadway.

I pushed on after lunch into a very old city with narrow streets and my gps deciding to act up. I had stopped to read some notes about the city and figure out where I would head. I decided I'd head towards the only hotel in town and see if I could find a Casa particulare.


A bridge coming into Matanzas



View up the river.

Going up this narrow street I spotted a hostel so decided to stop. A woman told me it was full but she would see if the owner could find me a place. Right now I'm sitting in the most beautiful courtyard sipping fresh pineapple juice, with the kitchen, dining, everything outside and the rooms opening into it.










Feels very Mexican. Through much difficulty on my part I understand that the owner is calling around town to find me a room. She's going through a stack of business cards an inch thick. I finally understand she has a place and something will happen in an hour. Bits and pieces are understood.

Then this young man shows up on a bike and I'm to follow him. His English is pretty good. That helps. So, off we go. And he gets to see and hear all the attention I get. He's laughing! We're quite a spectacle as I follow him through the city. This hostel is near the city center and quite nice although not as lovely as the other. My room is in the back. Nothing special but has a/c. Because there are no outside windows:(.




My room


The courtyard...I'm at the back



The kitchen area.

After getting Blaze settled into the garage and me a shower, I head down to the town Plaza where there is WiFi. I want to try uploading blog posts. Big mistake. They load without pictures. Argh!!!! That's it. I'm not uploading any more until I get this figured out. I don't do all this work just to have it not load. The pictures are a big part of the story here.

I found a "supermarket". Disappointment. Some crunchy something in bags, canned milk and powered milk, canned fruit, bottled mushrooms and canned olives, canned peas and canned corn, cookies, and Pringles. Also lots of umbrella strollers and cleaning supplies...and alcohol! Some hair products and deodorant. I walk out with canned olives, canned pineapple, cookies, and Pringles...$14. For real! Not cheap at the supermarket.

Then off for some pizza for $4 at a restaurant. Every time I order cold water lately they pour it. It's not always bottled and I don't carry my filter with me. Thirst is really bad here. I'm thirsty all the time and I don't like the taste of any of the water. Even the bottled water. I think that's why am so thirsty :-) I've gotten to drinking orange soda, even though it's full of sugar. It tastes good and gives me energy.



Isn't he a ham?!?



The street of my hostel.



The town square



Veggies sold from the cart.


Store with anything you might need.


Love the flag print. Saw it a lot.


Another corner of the town square.




Fast food restaurant


Live YOUR dream,

BagLady

North Shore of Cuba

There are so many scenes each day that are unusual and I forget to mention them. The guys on the veranda in Havana repairing mattress springs. The guy carrying his bird in a cage back from the beach with his daughter.

I'm feeling a deep loneliness here. Hard to connect without much language. A feeling of how much richer it would be to be sharing this experience with someone. Laughter. Planning. Maybe it will pass as time goes by.

I'm sitting in the courtyard having morning tea and Barbara just let the dog out onto the street to do his business. No poop scooping here:)

I finished my tea, packed up and moved on. I thought perhaps I was holding her up from leaving her house and I had to make some miles today.

At least that was the plan. I think I did 20 miles. The wind and sun are my excuse. Also I met some fellow travelers: Adrien from France and his girlfriend, Ana from Argentina.




They've also been on the road 3 years through South America. They were the most economical cyclists I've ever seen with plastic containers with the lids sliced away for panniers.


She had 4 containers and he 2. He had a great design of these wire folding baskets that folded flat when not in use. Some clever thinking. We just sat on the side of the road, Ana pulled out tiny folding stools and we had a cyclists meeting while trucks and horse drawn carts went by. Their English was quite good so we could converse and share the magic of this life we lead.
And of course they had to sit on Blaze.



But also we had to go our separate ways: me to the east and them towards La Habana and their flight to Mexico in a couple of days. Mexico is where they can sell their jewelry and sorta settle down. Adrien told me about Casa de Ciclista that are in different countries where touring cyclists can stop for months at a time if desired. There's a gathering coming up of touring cyclists at one somewhere but I'll have to Google that when I can.

Another hot, sunny, windy day. My skin is suffering. Today I actually put on a jacket and capris to get some shelter from the sun. But then I overheat without air on my skin. What a dilemma. But although slow, cycling into the wind sure helps to cool me down.

I passed a ton of horse-drawn carts today.









And tractors too!



I've been taking back country roads and there are no services on these. In the middle of the afternoon I saw a handmade signed for a restaurant around the corner so I went that way. I finally found a counter with drinks and pizza and hamburgers. I was really thirsty for cold water and when she just poured it out of a used bottle I didn't go running to.
my bike for my filter. I hope that wasn't a mistake. I didn't filter my first gulp last night either. I have to pay closer attention, although supposedly the water is okay. I guess I'm testing it. A friend said there was bottled water everywhere...she lied! Not in the rural areas I'm traveling. Glad I brought this new Grayle filter as its easy to use.
So I had pizza con jambon, no quesa...pizza with ham, no cheese. I think it was Spam!



Eating healthy here is as challenging as in our south. I'm working really hard at staying off dairy here. But eating some meat.

Some of the roads Maps.me is sending me down are a bit rough!






But some spectacular views.



And unusual houses.



And little friends.



So tonight is my first wild camping and I'm at the formal entryway to something but I don't know what.


Quite a few people have gone past and I wave and say "Hola" to be friendly. They smile and wave. So I guess I'm good. I feel totally safe here in the country but I did lock my bike to a fence post. And I'm so happy back in my tent listening to the birds and feeling the tropical breezes. And each day I figure out how to stumble around making my needs known. Everyone is so kind and helpful. It's getting easier! Whew! Off to rest and read and sleep.


Live YOUR dream,

BagLady

Day 6: Getting Out of Havana

OK. Can't stay on Habana forever. Got to hit the road. Have no idea how this is going to go. My plan is to cycle south of the Bay then up to the coastline. Cycling Cuba suggests using the Via Blanca. Maps.me routed me. off of the Via Blanca. Yea, I was super-excited yesterday when I found out the Maps.me actually will rate routes offline and navigate! Wahoo! Them today I found out it isn't always so knowledgeable about the roads in Cuba. The first time it routed me down stairs to get across a small stream. Then the people on the street pointed another way. There was a bridge. A guy sitting there shook his finger and gave me a blocked sign. I thought maybe bikes weren't allowed. But after crossing I found out he meant it sad blocked on the other side. As I pondered how I would get it through he showed up to help me lift Blaze over the barricade.

I haven't mentioned the crazy roads and terrible fumes and wild card and buses I encountered getting out of Habana. I wanted to video it but I had my hands full. Just picture buses, trucks, cars, all honking, and spewing black smoke...and me. You got it!! I was sure glad for the navigate feature giving me directions.
When I got to a quieter area I did capture this video. Just imagine more vehicles and people on the street!

Oh but first there were big goodbyes at SuCasa365.


This is Georgina and her ex who works there.



This is Andy and Damaris from London and Brazil, who were guests there for several nights while I was there. I hope to see them in London someday!

What a wonderful place to stay: lovely room, great hosts, beautiful house, delicious breakfasts, and any questions answered. There was nothing I'd change about my accommodations...not one thing!


OK. Back to today's ride. One thing on my agenda was hitting a supermarket and I used Maps.me to locate some ahead of time. I was headed there. We'll, following my map I ended up in the hi rise slum-ish area. Alcohol is sold everywhere. Absolutely everywhere. At the gas station. In little shops. Not much food, but alcohol!! I was trying to find some snacks: crackers or cookies. I stopped in little shops, shops for hotels, anywhere I could leave my bike for a minute. One place had canned fruit, little boxes of Fruit Loops and Frosted Flakes, juices, and alcohol. Imagine these shelves filled for 2-3 feet with all the same product.

I did find cookies at the hotel shop:). And lots of suntan lotion.

I came across a farmer with a herd of goats. He motioned for me to come over and showed me two baby goats, each in their own sack.







My route took me down to the beach. But it was so dirty didn't go any further.





I saw so much filth today. Piles of trash. So sad. Because they aren't dirty...just the trash seems to pile up.

I had headwinds which are a mixed blessing. They keep me cool but prevent me from using my umbrella. (which broke another stay today...it's going to be on pieces by the end of the month) and the sun did a job on me! That and the wind.

I kept pushing along hoping that later today I'd be out in farm land where I could camp. By 4 o'clock I was losing steam and wanting to figure out where I could stop. I'm in a Cuban beachy community called Playa Estes. Finding a Casa Particulares is not easy. Once you find a house with the emblem, there's no one around. I'm finding out that shyness is something I struggle with when learning new things. I almost cycled away tonight but finally saw someone outside and asked "Casa particulares?" He sent me to Johnny who spoke great English and helped me meet Barbara and her son, Alfredo. I think they've rented me their two room studio. There's a room with 2 beds and a kitchen and a bath. But there's more to the unit in front as we're in the back. For $20 (down from $25 they were asking...I'm getting better at negotiations), I have a bed, a cold shower, and some dinner of pasta and potato and chicken salad. Yum! And Blaze is locked inside a locked courtyard.



My room for the night.



Blaze locked up to a pillar in a locked courtyard.



Barbara and Alfredo, my hosts.

I can see finding accommodations each night is going to get to me! I also know this is probably not a legal Casa particulares because there was no sign and she didn't record anything. I'm sure she's just very glad to make the money.

I'm fried, exhausted, in questionable accommodations. What a first day on the road!!

There are lots of horses and wagons around here taking everyone for rides...Kids and families. The horse's are terribly skinny but the truth right out. I've seen a lot...a lot of horses and carts. In the city, in the country. I'll try to get more pics.

I did finally walk out to the beach today. It was disgustingly filthy. Have I mentioned how much I hate litter?!? Pick up your trash!!

It's been interesting in that there is little conversation. Barbara asks me short questions. She offered me more dinner, but I was quite happy. Later she showed me not to use the sink in my bathroom as there's no drain attached. Good to know. I wish I could talk with her more. But I really have everything I need for tonight.
Buenos noches!!


Live YOUR dream,

BagLady

Day 5: Cycling Vedado Area of Havana

Mornings begin for me about 7 but breakfast isn't until 8:30 here at the Casa so I have some quiet time to write my blog, read a book (Pat Conroy's Beach Music), read about Cuba, or play games on my phone. Checking Facebook isn't an option and I must say I rather like the forced disconnection. I don't know what's happening in the States...and I don't really care. I've spent a fair amount of time thinking about my route when I leave Havana tomorrow. The most beautiful areas are to the west the guidebooks say...Guess it pays to do your research BEFORE you book your flights. My departure city is east of here and I can't make any sense going west. It just doesn't flow. And I'm not fond of buses or trains so I think I'll stick to my plan of cycling east. But I have decided to stay on the north shore to Mantanzas and then drop directly south to Playa Larga.

Today I wanted to try and get some Internet connection. I bought my card for $7.50 for 5 hours. Now I just need to find a place that has the signal. Sandra, the daughter here (a microbiologist professor) suggested outside the Hotel Habana Libra, the hotel Castro took up residence in when he took over the country.



I managed to get there then in looking for some shade to sit for a bit I went into a park. I was immediately approached by the police and signaled to move. I had read bikes aren't allowed on sidewalks or in parks. And since this area has no streetside parking there's no place to stop and sit on my bike. I did find a driveway with shade and the man in the chair didn't shoo me away. Ahhh. So I did manage to make a quick Facebook post and text with a friend. That's enough.

Then I cycled up to the Malecon, the breakfast all along the north of the city that keeps out the sea. Waves break high along there.









Hard to capture the classic convertibles flying by.






There are monuments to just about everything here. This one as the sign says is to the USS Maine that sunk here in 1898.
Then I just wandered through the neighborhoods. I like doing that best.



A plate of sautéed veggies I managed to explain to the chef I wanted, since I couldn't understand anything on the menu but pizza. Blaze is parked out in front. I was so worried about someone stealing her.












Horses pulling carts, lots of old crumbling buildings, and statues abound! Lady selling veggies.






A lovely Park with children playing outside!



A pastry handed to me in paper not a napkin.



Sitting in the foyer of my Casa enjoying the breezes through the doorway.

Another delightful day in Habana.


Live YOUR dream,

BagLady

Biking Around Havana

Today was the big day...the first big day. I took Blaze out on the town. And what a scene she created. People stopped us to take photos. People beeped at us. People yelled at us. Cars and buses honked at us. I felt right at home:). But oh, the exhaust fumes! I could only last a couple of hours out there. Too many tourists. Too much smog. Cough cough. And hot if not in the shade. And I only captured a few shots because my camera is my map and there was so much traffic in all directions. I ran a few red lights...went down one way streets the wrong way...pictures were the last thing I needed to try to do...too.









This double currency is ripping me off and I know the difference in the currency just not the displayed prices. And they will give you the wrong change any chance they get. Today I paid $5 for a sandwich that cost $0.20. Hope it was a charity. From now on I'm giving pesos (the smaller, the National currency) unless they complain.

I did figure out my route to get the ferry on Monday. And I found the Monument to the Revolution
And before I left today, Georgina my host took a spin on Blaze. Yup, she liked her.



A friend who came here on a tour in January told me it was the poorest country she'd seen. I don't see that. Nepal, especially Kathmandu, was so much poorer. Here is like a 2nd world country...not 3rd. No, there aren't many choices on the shelves, but everyone gets food. There's obviously different classes levels of income...especially now that they can be entrepreneurs. That's all recent under Raul. Some neighborhoods are quite lovely while others are more crumbling. I'm curious as to how I'll find the rural areas.

Oh and I did see this Fort but couldn't go inside because there was no place to secure Blaze.




And I love that the stoplights have countdowns. How handy is that?!?




It certainly is different being in a country where you just can't go down to the store and get what you need. I can't replace the bungee cord. Right now the humid conditions gave chuffed my underarms quite badly and I sure could use some powder. Don't know as I'll find any of that around here. My neighborhood doesn't really have any stores as far as I can tell. There's produce stands and that's about it.


Live your dream,

BagLady