The Miserably, Majestic Day

Wednesday June 15
Past Stanley, Idaho
Miles? Maybe 30
Total miles. Losing track. Maybe 400ish. (Don't have a guidebook that tells me exactly where I am.)

I followed the Salmon River through the mountains all morning. The road was twisty turny with NO shoulders. I repeat, NO shoulders. White line, gravel, fallen rocks. The drivers were great and no one (well,maybe one) got upset with me.

And I had to constantly stop and take pictures. So much to capture! Oh ya, and there were hot springs bubbly up along side the road. I thawed my toes out there:)

And I saw a helicopter carrying a massive power pole slowly lower it into a hole high on a hill. Quite a site! Got it on video. I was worried that he'd hit one of the power lines with it. Not to worry. The power was turned off.

Yup. Got to Stanley I'm time for lunch and everything is closed. Like a ghost town. What's up? Power shut down til 5 pm. And it's 1:00. Arrrgghhh! Do I wait? Do I bike on? How far 'til there's a store? About 50 miles. Really? Ya know how you carry your fears? Well I've kept telling myself I had too much for a biker. Stocked like a hiker. I can always buy more in the next town. Well, not today. But I do have enough to go the 50 miles I decided. Cheese and Triscuits for lunch. Trail mix for snack. Ramen noodles for dinner. And just for Willing and Abal, I'm soaking oatmeal and fruit for breakfast. Oh, better go do it before I forget.

Done. Now where was I? So I decided to leave after a wonderful conversation with a mom pushing a stroller walking in short sleeves, baby in bare arms, and me in long sleeves shivering. They grow them tough in Idaho, she told me.
What a quaint town with unlaced streets and rustic buildings... But mo AT&T service. Another Arrggghhh! I mighta stuck around til 5 if I coulda got caught up on emails and facebook. No reason to stay, so off I went.

Into the strong headwinds I'd been bucking all day. I asked the woman if these winds were usual around here. No. Guess I'm just lucky. And they were quite chilly winds, at least to me. So I'd have my wind breaker on with hood up to warm me and then the winds would stop (they were gusting), and the sun was quite strong and quite warm ... and I'd get hot -hot flash- and there I'd be guiding the bike with my left knee ripping away at the jacket to get some cool air on my body. Another Arrggghhh!

And yet I was biking through some of the mist beautiful part of the country with pine trees scattered across the mountain sides, snow dusting the peaks, weathered rustic zigzag fences along the streams (wish I knew why) and lush grassy meadows...you, just like in the pictures, but I'm pedaling through it. For hours. For days. For weeks.


Yesterday I decided I was being too anal watching the mph, avg mph, total miles and all that...so I didn't let myself look at anything but the clock all day and just see how many miles I did by days end. 38. Not bad. I know: I'm slow.

So today I was trying the same thing, but I did check in Stanley and it was 15 miles. Well, a ways out of town, I look down and there's nothing registering on my computer. So I look to see if the wireless transmitter has pivoted away from the wheel. Gone. Lost it and the post it was mounted on. Arrrggghhh!!! Again? Not my day. One glove jumped ship this morning, but I realized it before biking off. A pink neon plastic flag I've adopted jumped off, but I saw it in my mirror. I didn't see or hear this fall away. I went back about a mile or so, but found nothing. Not to be. So now I don't have to pretend not to look, I have no idea how fast or how far except for the mile markers on the side. It'll be an interesting trial. Have to see if I replace it in Boise.

I'm loving drinking from mountain streams again. That water tastes so good! I brought a Steripen for debugging my water and the first time I went to use it it didn't work. Red light! I guess the batteries lost their charge. Too cold maybe. It's getting quite crowded in my sleeping bag with me and all the gear that needs to stay warm. We fight for space:).

It's getting cold again at night and I'm using my 15* bag. Sure glad I have it. Tonight's chilly already and it's not yet 8:00. And there are patches of snow all around outside my tent. Yup, I'm up above the snowline tonight.

Tomorrow a 10 mile downhill I've been told. Wheee!!!!! Hope it's warm by the time I get to it.




Pedal on, Pedal on

Saddle BagLady

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Incredible Views!!!

Monday June 13
Challis, Idaho
45 miles today, about 350 total

There are views sometimes that make me feel I'm back in the Himalayas. And I gave to remind myself I'm in the good 'ole US of A. Tonight I have a pastoral view if cattle grazing on lush grass behind rustic, wooden fences, softly mooing; and behind them snow capped majestic mountains in all directions. Why am I so lucky? I sometimes ask myself.

Today I biked over a +7500 ft summit and came down 10 miles in the rain. Whee!! Just as I got to this incredible canyon with high stone walls that the road goes through, the rain stopped. And so did I to take it all in. Pictures do not do it justice. Ya gotta see it for yourself. My brother asked me, before I left Riverton, "Why do you do this?". And I didn't really have an answer. Today I did. So I can feel alive!!!!!! The people I meet, the views I see, biking uphill in the rain, talking to the animals that come over to greet me by the side of the road. All of that and more! Tonight I'm enjoying the setting sun, cool breezes, and sounds of birds I can't identify (sorry, Fuat;)). Life is good!

Today was rich and full. Besides the fun of the climb and the rain, I met a real live working cowboy, Curtis who was out herding his cattle back up away from the road. His horse's name was Chrome. He had 2 herding dogs with him too. He said he was a rarity and that around here there are some cattle that have never seen a horse. Cowboy on a horse is a dying breed. Glad I got to meet a real one! And see him working, too!

I also saw an albino calf. Oh how I wish I could have gotten a picture but my good camera doesn't come out in the rain. I also saw roadrunners. Birds that run across the road. I hope that's what they're called.

Then, as if this all wasnt enough for today, I biked into Challis and spotted this mural.


Thats just part of it. And this guy walks up to me and asks me if I'd like to know the history of the painting. Of course! Well, he painted it 2 years ago from a photo taken on July 4, 1898 that his mother-in-law had. It was a picture taken right here in Challis and the photo has the names of everyone in it written on it. Thanks Denis Dubois! What a serendipitous meeting. Trail magic keeps happening all over the place.

And the last thing I want to mention is all the waving from drivers here in Idaho. More drivers wave than don't. Really warms my heart! A wave. A toot. I feel so welcome on the road. Idahoans are sure warm and friendly! Thank you!!

Oh and last night I slept up in the tumbleweeds. And tonight I'm sleeping in a small pavilion about big horn sheep. Maybe it will help keep my tent dry during those early morning rains. (it's just that cement is sooo hard!)

Pedal on, Pedal on

Saddle BagLady

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Short But Sweey

Arco ID
17 miles. 267 total




Bopped around Idaho Falls on a new steed. Don't let Blaze see this picture:). It'd break her heart. Went through some if the beautiful subdivisions, down to the falls, and to a couple of farmer's markets. Wonderful change of pace! Thanks, Sarah!!!

And got a ride out about 50 miles so that I wouldn't be camping on govt nuclear testing site. So I had a short jaunt in to Arco. Short, but interesting. I met Glenn Caffery. He's a guy who's running across the US to raise $$$ for curing Alzheimers. Check out his site at alzrun.org. And make a donation if you're so moved. Certainly a good cause. He's running 50 miles a day pushing his gear in a trailer.

Then I met Beth and Adam (I think). Brother and sister doing a 4 day ride across Idaho. 200 miles. Today they out did themselves biking from Idaho Falls to Arco. About 65 miles. 13 hours. Thanks you guys for dinner! So thoughtful. Hope I see you out there again tomorrow!

And a gent in the restaurant suggested a town park with bathrooms as a place to spend the night. I hear a raucous outside my tent. Hope that's not him! Nope. Just a dog. Whew! Hope he stays away from the food on my bike.

Gosh golly, I love this life of wandering!!! I love not knowing what's around the next corner or who I'll meet.

Pedal on, Pedal on

BagLady

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We're Flying Now

Idaho Falls, ID

50 miles, trip total 250




Above photo is a campsite near the road, the night i slept with my food in my vestibule cause i was too tired and it was too rainy and there were no good bear bag trees.

Blaze got cropped, at least one tail did. And now she's trotting! We avg'd 10 mph yesterday and it felt so much more normal and pleasant to move along a bit faster. I'd gotten to dreading the day ahead because just getting 40 miles in was getting to be torture. Push, push, push. And getting nowhere. But that's behind us, and I'm happier for it.

The waitress at breakfast arbutus little diner in Swan Valley said there was a monster hill ahead. One her truck had a hard time going up. Her eyes got big and round as she thought about me biking up it. I asked her how it compared with the one between there and Victor that I had gone over. And she said that was a baby hill in comparison. Now I was a bit worried. So off I go. Gotta go. Hills and all. And I come to a hill early. And we chug up it. Nothing special. Nothing her truck couldn't do. Was that it? Is there another? On and on I pedal, worrying there's another Big One. But the valley flattens out and the hills are all in the distance. She was pulling my leg:). And so serious about it. Maybe she thought I was going a different way. That's all I could figure.

So last night I stayed at Sarah's house. Dennis hooked us up. What a delight she is. Felt like old friends right off. And the house is so cute and comfortable. Gonna be hard to leave these creature comforts and company. Getting a lift from her today out past the govt environmental lab acreage because I can't camp there. She'll drop me iff near Arco and the Craters of the Moon. Ohhh. What's camping there going to be like tonight? Camping in a lava field? Should be fun getting stakes in that stuff.

Sorry about the pics. May try again. Most of them are on the camera and not the phone anyways. Don't want to fill my phone with pics but they have to be on the phone to post because that's what I'm using for my computer. I went back and inserted one for ya!

Pedal on, pedal on

BagLady


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Cabin Fever

Swan Valley ID
11 miles in the rain in the 30's

The rain did me in this morning. Temps in the 30's over night. Only 42 right now at 10:30 am. I'm snug and warm in a delightful cabin I was able to barter down to $60 for the night. I'll bet it goes for 2-3 times that usually. I've got all my wet gear strung on my bearline which zigzags around the livingroom. Could sleep 4 hikers in this place! Wish I had 3 others to share the expense with. I don't plan on using motels too much this trip...just when there's a real value to it. And this time there was!

Hard sitting around today during the spells of not raining. But I did manage to dry out my tent and clothes, wash a few things, catch up with friends and Dana, watch mindless TV and eat at a local diner. Even got a car offered to me to get there (a BMW!), but o said I needed the exercise.

Sleeping in a bed is not special, but having a warm place to eat breakfast and pack up is sure nice:).

Off to Idaho Falls today. 45 miles. Visiting the sister of friend of a friend. Kinda like a distant relative:) Should be fun and a change of pace.

I see sun! Glorious sun! Should be a good ride if I can beat the rain this afternoon.

Pedal on, pedal on

Saddle BagLady

Sent from my handy, dandy, mini, little computer (iPhone)


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Rain, Rain, Go Away

Between Victor and Swan Valley, Idaho

About 30 miles pedaling and 5 hitched

Total miles: 215

This is my 3rd night of rain and it can quit any time now! And, yet again, it started to pour seconds after I climbed in. How lucky is that? But tonight I am literally by the side of a major road because there had been no side roads through this whole national forest. So I gave up looking and took the first spot a bit (30 ft) off the side of the road. Sure glad I did when the skies opened up again today. But I'm gonna hear traffic all night. Good thing I sleep soundly:). My major worry is the fact that my food is in the vestibule. Guess I'll be glad near a road after getting mauled by a bear. If it stops raining later, I might try to hang it up. Might.

Spent last might in Jackson after a grueling headwind ride in. But 2 root beer floats later I was smiling:). (I earned them.)

Jackson is not a bag lady's kind of town. Too glitzy. I tried to buy a small 4" crescent wrench at the hardware store. $15! But it's a toy wrench I told them! So then I went to the bike shop and borrowed one from them. I wanted to try and stop the pulling to the right. I didn't have a clue what I was doing and actually I was doing nothing. I was adjusting the locking nut! But Pete there tried for a long time to get it aligned. No go. But I decided to stay over and try again thus morning. After my pizza and talking to quite a few people about where to camp (along bike path, at fair grounds, next to bike shop parking lot), while looking at a map and saw a cemetery. Those be quiet folks. I'll try that. On my way there, I found the town park. With a ski lift and boulders for rock climbing. Very cool. And perfect for the night. No one bothered me. Most interesting how places to sleep just appear just when I need one. I just have to believe it will happen...and it does.

So today before drying my gear while the bike shop fiddled again, pumped up my tires, and added a cup holder (Yup!), I had breakfast at an organic restaurant. Mmmm! Then I took a "shower" in the bike shop restroom. Even washed and conditioned my hair. New woman. When I came out with a wet head I said "You didn't know there was a shower in there, did ya?"

Then I had to do Teton Pass. 10% grade, both sides. So I had decided I would hitch up and ride down...wheeeee! (that's for you, Dennis!). And it didn't take me 5 minutes to get a ride. Pretty lucky at hitching. Tom, a guy that lives in Driggs, had seen me leaving Jackson a ways back and figured I deserved a ride. Much appreciated:))).

The downhill was exciting. I just can't seem to let her fly past 40 mph. Too scared. She so sensitive and the road had tight turns, I was afraid of two-wheeling her. Later I had another bad downhill in the rain and no shoulder. And I pumped the brakes all the way down.

Met asshole #1 today - he honked, honked, honked at me on that nasty downhill. Arrgghhh! But to offset it, a guy coming towards mr today took to the shoulder to give room to a tractor trailer truck passing me. Big hug for him! The only other scary thing that's happened 3 times is people passing coming head on to me. Really? I dive for the grass! I don't think they see me or they don't care if they take me out. I hope I live through this adventure. There's nothing in the wilderness as dangerous as roads and bikes. This has to be the scariest thing I've ever done.

Taking my life in my hands, as hey say. Tomorrow I may make Idaho Falls where I've been connected up with some locals. That should be fun if it works out

Pedal on, pedal on,

Saddle BagLady

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Sun and Wind

Miles today: 28
Total Miles: 101

I'm somewhere past Dubois but before Togwotee Pass. I'm in bear country now.

Yesterday was a fun day. Got a good earlyish start and was able to make about 8 mph when I was biking. Sure is purty 'round this here parts! Just past midday another biker caught me and was thrilled to see me on a trike. He has one nut hadn't thought of touring on it. He's on the second section of a cross country trek. Last year he biked to WY and this year he's finishing it. His wife drives the truck and meets up with him every 10 miles. That way she doesn't have to sit home. Great idea! And guess what he wants to do next year? Hike the Appalachian Trail! To celebrate his 70th birthday! You go, Johnny! He took a zero today, but they came out to find me. I talked him in to triking with me tomorrow. He's going to ride his regular bike til he catches me, then switch to the trike. We'll stay together til Moran Junction. Hopefully he won't find me too slow. Maybe the trike will slow him down. But his won't have the weight on it.

Today the sun and wind got to me. I'm gonna be brown as toast on my front left side! But the wind kept me cool. That was the only good thing about it...arrgghhh! It was strong and really slowed me down. Way down! I biked...pedaled... for 5 hours and only got 28 miles. Tough, well-earned miles, at that! But I was warned about the wind. And I knew when it kicked up, it'd be slow going. And it was. But I just do what I can and keep moving forward. No race here. Just deadlines. But hopefully I'll make up some time (and miles) torrow with the steep downhill from the pass: wheeeeee! That's when Blaze is fast. She does love to gallop down the hills!

Tonight a couple of young women biking across the US are camped with me: Kat and Meg. They've been doing some miles. They came from Jackson today. That has to be 80-100 miles. 2+ days for me. They're using kitty litter panniers! And they're working great for them! Fuat, they said the yellow ones really show up well up the road, so you should be good! And they make good seats in camp.

Gonna go be social now that I have company:)

(Had to delete picture because it wouldn't upload.)

Pretty site tonight by the Wind River!

Pedal on, pedal on,

BagLady


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We're Off: BagLady & Blaze!

Miles: 25
Trip Miles: 25
Start: Riverton WY.
End: Pavilion Reservoir.
Start: 1 pm
Finish: 6 pm
Weather: 60's and sunny. Light wind. Night temp in low 40's, my guess

I hit the road about 1pm after a leisurely morning finishing packing and laundry, breakfast and lunch, and last good talks with my sister-in-law, Sandy. It's been a fun week getting to play with her! Thanks Steve and Sandy for a great visit and wonderful hospitality. Like staying at the Ritz! Oh ya!!!

I stayed on the road out of town that Google suggested even though the locals didn't recommend it...and it was great. First and foremost, it was quiet with few cars, a biker's paradise. But it did turn to dirt about 17 miles down. And even that degraded to rutted dirt for the last few miles. But Blaze is quite sure-footed and loved the challenge. And she enjoyed being up close to other horses that we often stopped and talked to. They seem quite interested in her too...can't take their eyes off her! But I sure can't wait til she figures out how to trot. This walking pace is slow going. We're only averaging about 7 mph...and we haven't hit the hills yet!

Spent last night near a reservoir on the Wind River Reservation. I was warned not to camp on the res for fear that being white I would be harassed. But I got off the main road and what cars did pass my little campsite didn't bother me. One guy waved. I think sometimes making some sort of contact helps attract some protection. Peaceful long night of sleep and a spectacular sunrise this morning. On towards Dubois today.



Pedal on, pedal on!

BagLady

p.s. Looks and feels like I'm back on the Pacific Crest Trail in southern CA. Where is Tumbleweed? I sure do miss her laughter!


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Location:Pavilion WY

SNOW!!!

The last four days I spent driving across North Dakota, Montana, and Wyoming. Each state more beautiful than the one before! I do love the wide open spaces out here. And I found "where the buffalo roam".


Big guy, isn't he?

And I found out there's still snow in them there hills




I drove through a blizzard in the Bighorn Mtns! And now I know there'll be snow in the passes of the Rockies. Hmmm? I've always wanted to try my hand at winter camping. Guess thus will be it. But I have to tell you that when I came through the Wind River Canyon and saw the Rockies out beyond, it took my breath away thinking about biking up through there all by myself. Thus is going to be my most courageous adventure yet. No guidebook for this one. And tonight my brother was telling me that the grizzlies are awaking 6 weeks later than usual and are extra hungry. Great! Wish I had a bear canister. Left it home 'cause I didn't think I'd need it. Deep melting snow. Having to hang a bear bag. Lugging my bike off the road into the snow to camp. Hmmm? Sure hope I figure all this out as I bike west.

Meanwhile I have a wonderful couple of days here at my brother's house and getting to meet my niece's kids and getting more info before I head out Friday. Weather looks like it should cooperate and I'll only have to contend with snow on the ground.

If anyone has any experience with camping in these conditions off the side of the road in the mountains in spring snow, I'm all ears!

I live for adventures like this! Bring it on!!!

Pedal on, BagLady

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Location:Riverton WY

Thank you!

How thoughtless of me. I mentioned all the wonderful friends (both old and new) that have hosted me this last week, but did I thank them for their fabulous and enriching hospitality? No.

So a special note to Boo Boo, Glenn & Tim, James, and Willing & Abal: THANK YOU!!!! For food, for sleep, but most of all, for friendship! It's truly what makes the world go round...and I am blessed to have you all, each and every one of you, in my life. You are the GIFT.

Til next time,

BagLady


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