Oh, My Aching Legs!

April 10, 2013
Manaia, NZ

(This town has the same name as Bruce's boat:))

My day started out with a lecture from a cop about the helmet law. She pulled me over with lights and siren! Busted!! "You can take it off down the road, but I'll be in the clear as long as you leave my area with it on. "

Five minutes later it was removed. It gives me such a head and neck ache. Hurts thinking about it. Oh well. She's just doing her job. People in NZ have so much fear. Afraid of the narrow roads and bad drivers. Not an issue for me. Afraid of the dangerous men making it unsafe to camp. My only issue is with cops and councilmen. They're the only ones that bother me at night.

Today I cycled over the toughest hill yet in NZ. OMG! My legs are still pooped. It took me nearly 3 hours to climb a couple of miles. So freakin' steep! Pedal. Rest. Pedal. Rest. Pedal. Rest. Up and up and up. Then this evening as I was looking for a place to camp, I get another climb for about an hour when I was already spent. Poor legs. They work so hard. But I still say its easier to climb hills on Blaze because I don't have to unclip or put my feet down. Sometimes I just rest for less than a minute. Heart recovers pretty fast. Then I push on. All the waves and beeps help to:))

So tonight I was concerned about where I was going to camp. This coast seems less hassled. There are no signs about No Freedom Camping like I saw on the other side. But I still want to sleep in peace. And I said I need to get over my shyness about asking people if I can sleep in their yard. So that's what I did tonight. I saw this truck pull into this house with lots of yard space and Bob, a Maori man, said Yes! So I'm nestled in the yard near the black piglets running free and dogs in cages and an old blue pickup truck. But it's a mowed yard and I'm not "camped illegally". This is the only way around the issue. So I guess it will force me to get over my shyness!




And today's faces are of Christine, a shop clerk who sold me a cute windbreaker, and her daughter, Sunny.




Busted BagLady


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Markus & Marina

April 8 & 9, 2013
Coromandel Peninsula



I have to say this area has been my least favorite area to tour. The negative energy spoils the amazing beauty for me. I have never seen so many NO signs with so many empty, wonderful places to enjoy the scenery. Look but don't touch. Drive by but don't stay. I can't wait to get out of here. If the Northland is the same way I'm not sure where I'll head. Perhaps back to the South Island for the last month. Most of the people are just as fabulous and perhaps I'll find they'll let me camp on their properties. For the past 2 nights I've been in campgrounds just to avoid the hassle.

Yesterday morning as I was passing through Tairua, Marina waved at me from her picnic table where she and Markus were breakfasting, so I pedaled over.



They are car camping in NZ but backpacking around the world for a year. We both were headed to Hotwater Beach so I said that I would see them there and took off. I had a couple of hours ride and this peninsula is HILLY! So we met up and played at Hotwater Beach where the sand is sitting over 2 thermals and for 3-4 hours while the tide is low you can dig your own hot tub.


Fun!

Then they said they were going to Cathedral Cove. I was headed that way but didn't expect to see them again, so said goodbye. I got to Hahei and to save myself grief and to get a shower, I booked into the campground. Then I decided to cycle to Cathedral Cove. Up and up. So steep was the road. My legs are like steel and as fat as speed skater's thigh. They can muscle up anything. What a freaking grind! And when I went around another bend and so the road still climbing, I was ready to quit. I stopped to chat with Karen



who is Canadian and has lived here a year. She's bumming around now before leaving. She said it wasn't anything special so I quit the climbing and chatted with her. While I'm standing there kibitzing, guess who comes along? Markus & Marina! They talk me in to taking my bike back to the campground and we'll go so the cove together.



Well worth it! So glad they convinced me to join them. Then they came to the campground too for the night. Nice having their delightful company over dinner. And they keep feeding me fruit every time we sit together. So sweet!

I headed out early this morning. Trying to make some miles if that's possible. Today I had a short ferry ride over to Whitianga.



Meanwhile, Marcus & Marina had to drive around as this was only a passenger ferry... so I never expected to see them again. We had said our goodbyes.

But low and behold, who should pass me as I'm cycling out of town? Yup! M&M!! Always nice to see familiar faces. We had really connected so it was good to see them again.

When I caught up to where they had stopped for a snack and a rest, I parked Blaze and hopped in their van for a tour of Black Jack Rd out to a cape. Amazing views and then a sunset to die for!



We then moved on down the road and spent the night in another campground. The painful part is there are so many perfect freedom camping spots all over this place. Oh well. Tis what it is.

Some of the amazing faces of today. John I met as I stopped to take a picture of his milk can mailbox and we chatted for over half an hour mostly about American politics.



Another man by the side of the road. Can't recall his name.




And then there was Monique, Billy and Lulu on their way home from dance class. Love the kids. These guys got the last of the stretchy bracelets I brought to share with children. I had 50 of them!




And last is Francine (I think:/) and her daughter, Tanya. They asked if they could take my picture because they'd seem me on the road every day for about 4 days now:)).

BagLady


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Ramblings

April 6 & 7, 2013
Taurus, NZ

The Coromandel Peninsula is turning out to be as hilly as I was told. Don't mind the hills but its slowing down an already slow lady. Green craggy hills, some shaved and green with pasture grasses, some treed with planted pine. Then when the harvest the pine, they desecrate the hillside. Eventually replanting it with pine. But I've been told by a guy who's son works for the Forest Service, that care is not taken with all the byproduct of felling trees and it clogs the streams. Everything is bliss is this country...just a lot is:)

Rain. While eating dinner. Before the tent was up. Not good. I was camped in a questionable spot. Someone's "front lawn". Picture a long winding driveway up a hill with an open gate and fencing, and a mowed patch on the roadside of the fence. Yup. Had my name on it. Especially after looking for nearly an hour. I need to get braver and cycle up one of these long driveways and ASK. My next new behavior modification. I'm taking people's pics easily. Now I need to approach houses. (i'm shy...and I think I'm also tired and really don't want to be social then...)

Back to last night. By the time I packed up dinner and got the tent up and my gear inside I was soaked and a lot of water came in with me. Add to that, the temp dropped to around 40-45* I'd guess by how cold I was and all the condensation made for rain inside the tent. Wet bag, wet clothes, wet mat, wet everything.

Packed it up all wet and went to the beach in Whangamata. (Darling town although I only cycled through it. Trying not to stop and spend money in every town and besides, it's Sunday and most shops are closed.)

But the beach was beautiful and some sun came out. Ya have to wait awhile for it to be a really drying sun. Too early and too cloudy and it takes longer. Met a couple there that are Kiwis living in Hawaii (Kawaii) and usually come back every summer to NZ. They own a paddleboard shop there. That's something I should have tried here. Need a wet suit now.

Up and down. Lots of hills. Slow going. Beautiful views. Lots of time. Just worried about dropping temps at night. Don't have much more to wear:/. We'll see how tonight goes. I may have to think about buying a fleece liner. Where will I pack that?, I wonder.

Tonight I'm going to make a list of every bit of food I have with me. And it's a lot!! Always fear running out. Was a bit low at Tanners Point. Like to be ready for an extra day here or there.

Side bag:
Extra virgin olive oil
Vinegar
Peanut butter
Jam
Lemonade crystals
Canned tomatoes

Right pannier:
Can of tuna
2 pkts of "Jet Planes" jelly candies (they were on sale)
Bag of lentils
Jar of local honey...a gift from Del

Left pannier:
Tub of butter
Bag of coffee, sugar, dried creamer
Mashed potato flakes
Whole wheat pasta
Tea bags
Parmesan cheese
Cheddar cheese

White plastic bag on side bar:
Bread
Doritos
Girl Scout cookies
1/2 head of cauliflower. (Tonight's dinner)
2 mandarin oranges...gift from Karen
2 feijoas...gift from Lorelei today
2 avocados
5 small tomatoes
8 small plums...now 7:)

Now my feed bag:
Dates
4 raw eggs
300 ml of yogurt
Bag of Jet Planes...remember? On sale!
Mac & cheese
Mayo
Muesli
Dark chocolate bar
Mixed nuts
Red pepper
2 cup containers of microwaveable brown rice
100 ml of white wine
Cumin
Salt
Kelp seasoning. Gift from Del
10 crackers
3 hard kiwifruit
3 pkts cream of mushroom soup
Whole milk powder
Chocolate pudding
Garlic

OMG! Not starving any time soon!!! Always nice to have options on what to eat. Tonight it's cauliflower and Parmesan cheese. Maybe I'll finish off the pudding pack for dessert.

We came off daylight savings today and I didn't switch my watch because I know what time the sun sets and what time I need to quit and make camp and what time to get up and get going...and I don't want to mess up. My cycling days are shrinking. Something I didn't think about. I may get upwards of 12 hours of sleep a night now. Besides reading and journaling, play Sudoku on my iphone if it has enough juice, there's not much to do after dark. And dark will be 6:30 tonight I think, new time. Guess I'll be we'll rested. Mornings are hard because its cold and wet out. Hate to start before the sun's well up in the sky and warmed things up a bit. I think the easy days are over. More challenges ahead. But I like challenges. Raises the rewards!!!

Goodnight,

BagLady




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"No Camping!"

April 4 & 5 , 2013
Waihi Beach, NZ



Sleeping
Reading
Swimming
Walking
Talking
Painting

Lovely way to spend a day on a quiet little bay. Two night limit. Besides. I needed to keep moving north.

There's a chill in the night air and the leaves are smelling dry. Love autumn! Can't wait to experience one in NZ.

I'm heading up the east coast if the Coromandel peninsula. I hope folks are using this opportunity to familiarize themselves with New Zealand. I often do that when I follow other cyclists blogs. If you type the location I give you on any particular day into Google Maps...voila! I know I'm not writing much of a travelogue, describing the scenery, etc. This is "my" journal so you just get what I want to write about:). Power of the pen!

I'm following a main State Highway 2 and its quite busy and noisy. Hopefully, when I pass through Waihi today and pick up 25, things will quiet down.

Yesterday I met a German couple that have been on the road 2 years and cycled here from home...through India. I love hearing how couples handle the difference in cycling paces. This couple meets up in town. Yesterday Robert stopped to take a swim at the beach while Sabine continued on to town. He's so much stronger that he catches up easily. They also love mountain climbing with ropes and everything. So instead of carrying that gear, they find a central town to stay at for 6 weeks and have their gear shipped to them. Then before moving on, ship it home to Mom. Costly but far easier than carrying it and you get Your Stuff.



At the suggestion of a local, I cycled out to the tip of the peninsula to camp last night. There was a parking lot, johns, picnic tables and folks with campervans set up. Seeing no camping signs, including campervans, I chatted with some people and found out it had been recently opened to self-contained vehicles. (Those upscale rigs with bathrooms and grey water tanks.). But there's a bathroom here! Well I decided to risk it. Didn't want to bike back. It was after 5 pm.

Found a spot, set up, was cooking up some lentils for dinner and chatting with Karen



when a cop car pulls up. "No camping," he tells me ever so nicely and with the sweetest smile. This is the country of gentle cops! I convinced him to let me stay until morning. Sweet!

I share my dinner with Karen, then tuck away for a night's sleep. Janine comes by calling "Girls!" Just me. She wonders about the cop and am I alright. I believe she was wondering why I was still there. Not safe way over here away from everybody. Give me a break! I am so tired of hearing about not being safe. I'm fine!!! Don't even put that thought into the Universe, please. She leaves and then...

About 9 pm, a representative from the District Council shows up and wakes me. "No Camping! I got a call and have to respond. The cop didn't have authorization to let me stay. Where you go is your problem, Love."

Flashbacks are happening! Am I in Holland? I think Janine called 111 to complain about me.

As I pack, the rain comes back. I cycle away having no clue where I'm going. I'm not going to the campground, that much I know. I'm getting wetter. There was a spot I'd noticed on my way out by a car park and on the water. Lets see if any cars are there. Nope. Look at this...I can set up behind this huge flax plant. This should be fine. In fact, better than where I was:)

And even though I took down and set up the tent in the rain, I've managed to get warm and dry inside...just a slight bit of mopping.

This morning, the locals who told me about going there stopped me on the road. They'd been down to the point for a swim and heard about my fiasco...and felt bad. But I was fine. Everything seems to work out. Just need to obey the signs and not camp near folks. Lesson learned.

BagLady



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Silence

April 3rd, 2013
Tanners Point, NZ

I finally broke away from Tauranga and Liz's wonderful home and company. It wasn't easy but the day had to come. I was gobbling up all her data allotted in wifi, poor girl. She had to cut me off:). Wifi is so costly down here and not unlimited. I should have known because of all the trouble I have getting it while on the road. It had a favorable outcome though: when she called up to see what could be done, they gave her 3x her old plan for $5 less a month!

The road today was so busy, so noisy, so exhausting! I have this busy section before things will quiet down again. I much prefer just the logging trucks and an occasional car to all this traffic. A few honks and cheers helped my mood.

As delightful as staying in a house always is (and it was fabulous!), I'm happiest on the road, on the move, sleeping and eating outdoors. I don't know why. Even as a child I played living in the woods:). I have to find my "indoor/outdoor living" place. That's a term I thought I coined, but it's used frequently down here. Another thing I have in common with Kiwi Land!

Tonight I rode down a road towards the coast and found a civilized launch park with a parking lot, toilets, and a lawn for me. A couple of campervans are here too. Lorraine already stopped by and introduced himself. No photo.

But I did have lunch with Bruce (not Boat Boy Bruce:)), that I met when I stopped for something to eat.



So we shared a table and conversation about bikes and touring. He's a retired teacher that loves teaching kids to swim and play the recorder because it makes the kids feel good.

It's so so quiet here. You could here a pin drop. This is a bay so there are no waves lapping. And there's no wind. Silence. Necessary after this crazy, noisy day.

I'm off to start a new book. April Fool's Day by Bruce Courtenay, one of my favorite writers.

Beddy-By BagLady


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Pics from Tauranga

Liz and house (forgive the quality...pic of a pic)




Girl and dad from jazz festival:




Group playing:



Too busy relaxing and enjoying to take many photos.


BagLady



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Easter in Tauranga

March 29 - April 2, 2013
Tauranga, NZ
Liz, Moa's sister-in-law, whom I met at Christmas in Wellington, graciously offered to put me up (to put up with me) when I got north to Tauranga. And I didn't know when that would be exactly. But I called her a few days out and gave her Thurs or Fri.
I arrived Friday.
And getting off the bike for a long weekend has been an incredible treat. So has meeting her girlfriends! Friday night it was dinner at Bet's with us and Sally. Good cooking and girlfriends!! Doesn't get much better! And I forgot to get pics:/. Guess I'm on holiday too.
Saturday we ran around downtown at the annual jazz festival and did a bit of shopping. Yup! New marino wool sports bra and a new inflatable ExPed sleeping pad. Tired of sore hips and several blowups during night. Treating myself. Got the demo at a discount. Their version of a NeoAir. Got my fingers crossed because I had no luck with the latter.
Tauranga has a beautiful downtown section right on the water and the rain held off. So it all worked out. Sunday we were down there again with two more girlfriends, Judy and Gail. Lunch, girl talk, and jazz...oh ya!! I've enjoyed the opportunity to be "one of the girls" in NZ. Thank you for including me!
And today was a tour of Mt. Maunganui, the Mtn and the town...and lunch on the strand. Quaint place. Cute shops. Delightful views.
Liz has been the sweetest host, treating me like a princess!
BagLady
More pictures are posted at:
https://picasaweb.google.com/104890875270597877610
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Happy Birthday, Avery!

March 28, 2013
Between Te Puke and Tauranga, NZ on the beach.

My older daughter, Avery, turned 36 today. How can that be? I remember turning 36 and it doesn't seem that long ago. Every year, her birthday blows my mind! Where oh where have all those years gone. I remember the first time I saw her after I came out of surgery. " She looks just like me!" I said as her father held her up. But she looks nothing like me now:). For whatever reason, a first born holds a special place in a mother's heart. Maybe because they had to suffer through your learning process. Motherhood comes with no manual, just trial and error, and lots of ideas. Please forgive me, Avery, for all my screw ups. I had good intentions and always want(ed) what was best for you. A mother's lament. Must have done something right, or she turned out okay in spite of me:). Hope this is an amazing birthday and can't wait to talk to you tomorrow...when it's your birthday there.

Back to NZ. Last night I found a delightful camp spot at the mouth of a river where fisherfolk came to fish. In the middle of the night? I heard a bit of car activity, but I was upstream from the point so most cars went on by. Except for one. I heard it stop. The engine turned off. Two car doors opened and slammed. Then silence. The back of my tent was to the road, so I couldn't see anything. And I didn't want to stick my head out to show myself, so I lay very still...and waited. Heard rustling. Is that near my tent? Is that the feral cat I saw? Is that someone taking a piss near my tent? Silence. But 2 doors and no voices. Weird. Silence. Waiting. Waiting. Shallow breathing. Should I get my knife? Nah. Finally. Car doors open. "Wait", someone says. Then the engine starts. And the car departs. Sigh. Sleep.

It was delightful by the river watching the sea birds swimming through the shallow water. Had Internet and power. Sent some emails. Etc. Hit the road at 11, 2 hours later than usual. What's my rush? I'll make Liz's house tomorrow. On schedule.

A ways down the road I decided to replace my Prince William Feather that protrudes from my bike seat like a flag.




When I stopped, Helen




pulled up and invited me in for tea. Never say No.

She knows and has documented her Maori history and was very eager to share it with me. I was likewise eager to hear it, but unable to retain the stories or the names. I did get a charming video of her reading a Maori woman's quote that always brings tears to her eyes. (Too bad I'm unable to post video through this app although it is suppose to be possible.)



Her daughter is suppose to be a marvelous singer and I plan on checking out her YouTube post.

Bag Lady



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Trail Magic in Opotiki

March 26 & 27, 2013
Rangitaiki River mouth tonight...Opotiki last night

Short but full day yesterday. Got to Opotiki just after noon. First real town in 10 days. OMG. OMG. What to do first. How about lunch and a charge up? Ok. I agree. (See how easy it is when you travel alone? No one ever disagrees with you or gives you any grief:))

Met Ann and Peter (at least I think her name was Ann...I didn't write it down so I'm feeling sheepish). A couple from Hamilton on holiday over here and biking around for the day.



I go inside to order and plug in and meet Del and Tony who had seen me on the road earlier. Brief conversation. Plug in phones. I go outside to eat with Ann and Peter. As Del is leaving, she stops by and offers a shower and laundry and gives me her address in town. Yippee! Laundry was most exciting as it had also been 10 days since the clothes had been washed...and I wear the same, exactly the same, clothes every dirty, sweaty day. Can't rinse them out because they won't dry overnight.

I then do my town chores of uploading some blog posts at the library, sending a postcard, groceries, and scouting through the outdoor store. All the while having little chats with folks.

Is it comfortable? Yes

How's it on the hills? Slow but easy.

Where ya from? Upstate NY...not the city.

Where have you come from? Hard to answer. I usually say Wellington.

Over and over and over and over. Feel like I should have a sheet to hand out, but I'd miss the energy exchange.

So later in the afternoon I show up at Del's. This is the house she grew up in! Her mom died last fall and she's been here for 6 months winding everything down and getting the house on the market. She and Tony live in Australia now...he's an Ozzie. She took me up to this domain or park with ancient trees, the puriri (if I remembered right). Over 2000 years old. Burial trees for the Maori. They'd put their dead ones bones in the large cavities at the base of the tree. Sacred space. Felt it too. I think I know more NZ trees than American. My head is spinning with knowledge. I can recognize the puhutikowa (didn't say I could spell them)... It's the red blossom tree at Xmas. They are enormous up here on the coast. And the ponga. It's the palm that the NZ emblem if a palm frond is from. I need a picture of that.

Invited to dinner, of course I said yes. But I'll camp in the yard and declined the offer of a bed. I love sleeping in my tent. Dinner was gourmet! Portobello mushrooms with an onion and something else topping, then grilled pork chops with orange, sweet potato spinach feta salad, and leeks and zucchini. Everything was mmmwwaa! My kind of food! And fresh stewed apples, blueberries, and yogurt dessert! I was in heaven!



Lots of talking and laughing...wine does that to me. After breakfast I hit the road and so did they, off for a beach hike with friends.



I knew there were hills on today's route. Every day's route. And I don't mind them at all. Just pedal and rest and pedal and rest. Kinda like I hike up hills:). I always get to the top. I have to say the one out of Ohope was a crank! Wooweee! Ohope had the longest empty beach I've seen. Had lunch down there with a sandwich Del made from the leftover salads. Yum! There was sun and wind and haze and islands in the distance. Pretty spot. Upscale homes. Back in modern NZ. East coast is a pleasant memory.

Tonight's view of the river mouth:


Earlier I heard ducks quacking. Very different from the usually sheep baaing or cows mooing.

In 2 days I'll be in Tauranga visiting Liz, Moa's sister-in-law, who I met at Christmas. A few days off the bike will feel good. Then I'm headed to the Coromandel Peninsula. More beaches, poor me.

NZ is oceans and beaches and ragged hills and mountains and volcanoes and bush and sheep and cows. Yup. That about sums it up. And trucks and campervans:)

Love you all!! And thanks for the wonderful notes of love and support. This blog is such a great way to stay connected. Thanks for making it a two way street.

To sleep to the sounds of the ocean...ahhhh!



Full moon from down under.

Blissful BagLady

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Busy People Day

March 25, 2013
Hawai, NZ

The first chat of the day was with Trevor



at the corner store. Actually there was a guy before Trevor but I didn't get his name or picture...oops...but what was memorable about him was he backed up his car to my trike and pondered fitting it in all before even asking if I wanted a lift:). I told him I biked because I liked it and I didn't need a lift to the next big town. But the hills are big! Good! says I. I love hills! And I do!

Then there was Helen



standing by the side of the road trying to get cell reception.

Later Maryanne



called to me from her yard as I passed. She drives 3.5 hours from Rotorua up here to a house she's fixing up that she moved her from Auckland. She gave me fresh tomatoes. Yum!

Then John



came hobbling over to the picnic table where I was lunching by the beach. He offered me some grapes for dessert so we went back to his place to cut them from the arbor. Jessie joined us and then I said Yes to the offer for coffee.

Gotta get going! Not getting anywhere today!

And there were hills! A big long climb. But they're so much easier on Blaze. No balance issue. Just pedal as slowly as the steepness requires. I think 99% of the cars waved, honked, or flashed headlights at me today:). I feel loved!!

Got told No Camping Here tonight after my tent was up. I didn't see a sign. It's over there. Ok. If I'd seen it I wouldn't have camped here. I had to look hard to find it. Not very obvious.
That's okay. Just 1/4 km down the road and a better spot!!



Using the Prince William Feather as a flag when I'm riding and a clothesline in the evening:)

Busted BagLady

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