Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Last 15 kms

May 27th
Orewa Beach, NZ

Down to my last 15 kms. There'll be some local biking, around Waiheke Island and Auckland, but the tour itself will be over:(. I'm not ready for that. My legs and heart and lungs will go through withdrawal. I love pedaling all day not knowing what's around the next bend in the road nor where I'll sleep that night. Why is that? Haven't a clue.

Lots of coastal hills yesterday. But we managed:). Slowly...lots of granny stops... Up we go.

I've tried to calculate how far I've gone in NZ. My computer jumped ship at Cape Reinga. Is that a deep message? It had about 2000 miles on it. That's about 3500 kms. Add another 1000 kms I'd say because it started counting in Wanaka, South Island when a new battery was put in at a bike shop and the tweet didn't check the mileage count before I pulled the old one. So for giggles and grins, lets say 4500 kms in NZ. That's 2700 miles in 5 months. Love it! Then there's the SE Asia part and I'd have to check Sylvia's journal for that piece.

Got to to marina for the Gulf Harbor into Auckland Center and found out I should have checked a ferry schedule...or better remembered the one I did check: no ferry Monday afternoons! Oops. Have to camp out here and take the 7 am ferry.

Interesting community


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Saturday, May 25, 2013

Do Nothing Day

May 24th and 25th
Warkworth NZ

Yesterday was the perfect day in a beautiful spot to do absolutely NOTHING! I camped at Goat Island Campground, up the steepest hill I've done in NZ: gravel and pine straw...ouch! But the place and the view and the price were worth it. "Technically we're closed but since you came up that hill how about $10?" (Usually $20.). There was an outdoor club from one of the local high schools there and the first thing the teacher I met told me was "Lock your bike." No, I haven't in 6 months and I'm not starting now. Besides I don't have a lock with me...it's in Wellington because I never use it. The kids were fine...just having a good time. I put up a bit away from them and Blaze was untouched.

(It's raining while I write this in the dark of the tent. Should I be concerned that several larges drops have landed on my hand? This tent seems impossible to seal!)

So the view:





And down by the shoreline:



And the cute caravans painted up and set up with beds like little cabins (something done a lot here):







And sunrise this morning. When you go to sleep at 8, it's easy to catch it:)



Tonight I'm having strong flashbacks again to my trip last summer through Europe. Raining and I'm camped in a town park tucked out of the way. Like many a night then:)

I like moving as slowly as I've been. I think I did 20 kms today. Not really sure. Hung out at a little market chatting as usual.

Did have a close call with an oncoming car that was passing. No shoulder so I'm in my 1/3 of the road. There's not room for 3 abreast but he seems to think there is. I took to the ditch. Really? Do you have to scare me like that? Brought me to tears. I've heard daily about the bad NZ drivers and after 6 months I'm just beginning to believe them:/. Tailgating (which doesn't really affect me, but could) is probably the worst thing they do. They're usually lucky if the have one car length between cars at 60 mph. Even behind a logging truck. If he hits his breaks, they'll be toothpicks! Enough thinking about that.

I have 40 kms to the ferry to Auckland and technically the trip is done:( But I'm thinking of going with Blaze over to Waiheke Island for a few days. I hear its nice and I have the time. I hope the weather cooperates a bit. Yesterday was gorgeous, but today was very grey with the rain luckily holding off until tonight. I always appreciate that. Temps are high 50's to low 60's days and low 50's nights. So far, so good with my sleeping bag.

Back to my book,

B@gL@dy

P.S. Goat Island name was given to a lot of islands that only goats could live on because they have no fresh water source. Supposedly in days of yore goats were let loose on these islands so anyone shipwrecked would have food. This particular Goat Island never had goats on it. So there ya go!


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Thursday, May 23, 2013

John's Bach and the View

May 21 and 22, 2013
Leigh, NZ

Hmmm? Let me think. The days are running together. I forget where I camped. Been doing this too long, I guess:).

And I posted several posts today and I never checked to see that they were finished. Too bad. You get what you get. My head just seems to be spinning. And it's tired of writing...tapping out the tales of my life on this tiny keyboard with my thumbs. Tired, do you hear:))!!!!

I met the sweetest guy, Lex, by the side of the road out walking "his" dog. He's just taken a new job working for his aunt's lodge in Waipu Cove. The dog is hers. The dog's in trouble. If he gets out two more times, the Dept of Conservation (DoC) will put the dog down. Lex is trying to bond with him. When I come back, he'll put me up at the lodge for free just to hear my stories.



While sitting by the side of the road talking about the law if attraction and how I want go meet a lover who'll bike the world with me (I think I do)...up the hill walks this guy, John. He'd passed us and parked at the bottom of the hill waiting to talk
with me when I came down. I didn't come, so he walked up. A couple of years ago he'd cycled the circumference of Australia with a buddy. His parents had some property near here even though he and they lived in Australia. When Lex asked where and John explained, Lex said the view from there would be amazing!

I agreed to meet him at the bottom. Lex laughed after John left...law of attraction! He might invite you home:). We joked about it. Aw...he's probably married...they all are. He was cute, though!



It was a long hill he'd climbed. Impressive! The beach at the bottom, Lang's beach was breathtaking and I didn't get one photo. (Been quite lax these days getting pictures. )

So John and I chatted and he did invite me back to his bach. So glad I went! The view was to die for!






While he took care of some business, he suggested I hike over to


to see



The hike itself was quite strenuous



But I found out I'm fitter than I thought I was! Pitter pattered right up those hills:)

In the morning John was the proud hunter with his possum catch



The driveway up to that phenomenal view was long and steep...and of course, gravel. Blaze got another lift:)




BagLady


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Wednesday, May 22, 2013

Thru Hikers on the Te Araroa

May 20, 2013
Waipu Cove, NZ

A few days ago I met a couple that had hiked the Te Araroa. They dropped off 180 miles short of completing it because there was just too much road walking on the North Island. When we met, they were in a car and stopped to see if I needed help. I was having my lunch by the side of the road. Low and behold, they were from Tennessee and had hiked the Appalachian Trail in 2011. Country Mouse and Shadow. We must have passed an hour or more yakking. They tried Blaze and loved her. Such kindred spirits. We'll connect again, for sure.
Then today I meet another nobo (north bound) thru hiker: Scott. He's been following Country Mouse and Shadow the whole way. He almost cried when I told him they were off the trail. He's a fast hiker and been out 6 weeks less than CM and S. he was trying to catch them. I hopefully have been able to hook the three of them up in cyberspace since I had everyone's contact info. Very cool! Way to go Country Mouse, Shadow, and Scott! Impressive accomplishment!!!








I think what I learned from them is just do the South Island. Very remote. Very beautiful. Mostly in the wilderness.

Love hikers!!

And tonight I'm in the most expensive campground yet ($20) with the least facilities (no lounge or place to sit indoors)...but still had trail magic. I went and chatted with the neighbors, Jeff and Debbie from Oz, and got invited for dinner. An Aussie meal, they said:). Beef stew. Hope you're not a vegetarian. Not while I travel. And not when I visit folks. Nope. I eat most anything!

Life is good,

BagLady

Have to say it felt really, really good to be back on my trike! And on the flat with a tailwind!! We flew today. Whoa, Blaze! We have much time and not much distance to go. Gotta slow down!


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Michael and Carol

May 16-19, 2013
Whangerai, NZ

Where do the days go? How did it get to be the 19th of May already? I have a post for May 13 - 15th that lost its pics so I have to rebuild it. So that means 6 days? Well I've been cycling down the east coast of the Northland to get to Whangerai. It's hilly up here. Up or down. Only 2 choices. Good thing these legs are powerful pumping machines now! Amazing views of the water when the road swept towards a bay.



And with my new approach to finding a campsite (asking locals if I can camp in their yard) and I get a bed...it was raining:/...dinner, shower, breakfast! Thanks Wendy and Dougal!!! I also camped behind a marae (with permission) and it had power, picnic table, and hot running water. Sweet as!

I met Michael and Carol beside the road in late Feb and they offered to host me when I got to Whangerai. So I texted them a few days before to say I was getting close. The day I cycled in here (2 days ago) it was miserable out.



Pouring down rain. Cycling a major roadway with tons of traffic. Really nervous about being seen. Trucks whipping by. So glad to know I had a warm dry bed at the end of the day:). See sometimes I like sleeping inside! When I arrived, Michael said grab some dry clothes and escorted me straight to the shower while he made me some tea. Just what I needed. Then we shared stories about hiking the Himalaya! He's been up to the Everest Valley 10 times and knows it like the back if his hand. He has mountain pictures on every wall. Lots to share.

Here we are checking out Michael's favorite beach. It was out quite a ways down a very windy road and I made the mistake of sitting in the backseat. ( I thought we weren't going far.). Speed on top of motion sickness really gave my head a buzz. As soon as I spoke up, the situation was rectified...but I already was a bit woozy.










Michael and Carol, thank you for a fun and relaxing weekend. Loved meeting your friends too! Adds so much to the richness of my journey.

BagLady



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Waitangi Treaty House

May 13 - 15, 2013
East coast, Bay of Islands NZ

I've been working my way over and down the east coast of the Northland. Days are all alike now. Pedaling. Rolling hills. Bush and pasture. Grey water. Meeting lots of people wherever I stop...or if the stop me. Met this guy who pulled me over on the side of the road to show me a picture on his phone of the trike he built from plans online and old bike parts. Nice job, Roger. I especially like the aqua seat!




And, I went to the Waitangi Treaty House where the treaty between England and the Maori chiefs was signed in 1840 in the hope of bringing some peace and order to the islands for both sides. I did the full shebang: cultural experience and tour. Loved it!









Bag Lady

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Sunday, May 19, 2013

Moving slowly

May 19, 2013
Whangarei, NZ

Quick note to say all is okay. Just behind in posting. Been hanging with new friends all weekend and haven't caught up on posts. 3 weeks left. Gonna be a busy time. I'll try and get caught up tomorrow night:)


BagLady

More pictures are posted at:

https://picasaweb.google.com/104890875270597877610

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Monday, May 13, 2013

Some Days it's Nice to Do Nothing

May 12, 2013
Kerikeri, NZ

Got a tour of the "lifestyle" farm Steve and Michelle live on. Steve says they're called "lifestyle" cause when you move here hour lifestyle goes to hell. I've seen the term used quite a lot here. Lifestyle block is a gentleman's 5 acre farm. Lifestyle business is what you do to afford to live on the lifestyle block in rural NZ. Raise animals. Have a cafe. Farm goldfish...that was the best !

I got to see rabbits this morning. Michelle started raising them in December for food. She's got a buck and 2 does. And about 18 babies from 3 different litters...one just born 2 days ago...they looked like little rats, all pink with no hair. (No pics because my camera was way up the driveway on my bike.). The first litter was in last night's stew. I couldn't have eaten it. Really hard to do when you see their faces.

A couple hours pedal this morning and I got to this nice lively town of Kerikeri and its farmers market. Crusty bread. Micro greens. Tomato. Beans. Cuke. Yum! Guess what's for dinner!! SALAD!!!!

Since it is Mothers Day and the roads are crazy, decided to get a campsite and just hang out in the sunshine. Some days it's nice to do nothing. This is one of those days. It's lovely here by a beautiful creek. The road out tomorrow will kill me because it was down, down, down. Ugh that's tomorrow's problem. Today I read, rest, relax. Life is good!


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Saturday, May 11, 2013

Life on the Edge

May 10 & 11, 2013
Some field in Northland on way to Kerikeri, NZ

First, Happy Birthday, Dana!! She's my baby and she turned 29 today. She's already worried about turning 30 next year...the end of an era. How can my baby be that old??? Wasn't she just born yesterday? Where oh where does the time go?

Kindness again and again. Rain and cold...sun and hot. It can't decide what the weather should be. And when it rains, it pours! And gets cold...very cold. Yesterday I got drenched through. The rain came from behind, hit the back of my head, ran down my back, and flooded my seat. Brrr! Not fun sitting in the cold and wet. And the water was so heavy on the road that trucks drenched me as the went by. Different from last summer. This is autumn. It's cold out. In the 50's. Wet is harder to handle with cold. And I'm in a rural area with no place to take shelter. Just have to keep pedaling. Looked forward to hills because climbing warmed me up. Downhills were freezing. Umbrella just didn't help much because wind always seems to come with the rain.

But yesterday the sun did come back out and warmed me up and dried me off.

Stopped at a place that had cars all over the yard hillside. Car Clinic. Hans trades them and fixes them. Got a tent spot, shower, and breakfast!

Cold night. 2nd coldest of whole trip. Feet froze. Below 50*...the limit of my bag. Hmmm. But what a view this morning over the valley.



Tonight, after another rainy cold afternoon, I'm camped at a driveway end. Driveway was too steep. And again a shower and offer for dinner and a bed. I wasn't up to trying rabbit stew. They actually raised the rabbiting found out later. I probably should have tried it but I just couldn't. Since I love my tent, I'm sleeping in it even though its gonna be another cold night. Gotta layer up! Got extra gear nearby to put on as I chill.

Faces:
That's Joe from the marae I stayed at.


And this is Roger, a biker that invited me in for tea and has offered me a place to stay in Auckland.





BagLady


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Thursday, May 9, 2013

Days so Rich They're Like Dessert.

May 8 & 9, 2013
Awanui, NZ

Too much goodness. It's overwhelming me. And I can't take this shitty grin of happiness off my face. I have to tell it in the flow of the day because that works best for this senior memory of mine.

Awoke to rain after 12 hours of sleeping. Can't say I'm not well rested:). The rain let up and I got packed up heading south down this peninsula that Cape Reinga is at the top of. (Never end a sentence with a preposition is reverberating in my head!).

I know that Pukenui has a cafe with a veggie pizza the hostess if the hostel there (when I stayed there a couple of nights ago) mentioned was good. I'm headin' for PIZZA! When I walk in, who walks out of the kitchen? Steve. Erina's husband. The guy who gave Blaze a lift. He and Erina are up there checking out the cafe. How sweet to run in to them again! After eating most of a medium pizza - reminds me of hiker days - I continue south. And I gave a destination in mind. On my way north 4 days ago, I met Ian standing by the side of the road and got invited in to meet Alison, his wife, and have tea. I went. And when I left they invited me to come back on my way past when I would be heading south. I went:). I was looking forward to spending a bit more time with them, hearing their stories, and getting a major town chore done...laundry. (It had been 2 weeks:/. I done some stuff by hand, I'm not that grubby!). So we had a delightful evening and due to rain preventing me from setting up the tent, I slept indoors. Yes, I know. I never do that! Oh, and I have to mention the spa soak I had too! Fabulous



So after much rich and interesting conversation over breakfast, I managed to tear myself away and head on down the road...about 5 kms...and I turned off onto a gravel road to check out the Gumdiggers Park and Buried Kauri Forest. John, the owner



(who was adorable) inherited this land and discovered about 20 years ago it was full of holes in the bush. Gumdigger holes where the kauri gum was plentiful in the late 1800's due to the fact that there had been a kauri forest here 45,000 to 100,000 years ago and some unknown events toppled the trees time and again over the thousands of years. The swamp was rich with amber. And it was dug up from the muck by these guys that lived in huts covered with the fabric of the sacks the gum was shipped in. It went to England and was used for varnish.


John's created a tourist business here that was quaint and simply done. You see the huts, the holes, and kauri trees still in the ground preserved by the peat.

2 hours later, with an amber necklace John had made that I bought, I was headed south again. Now I'm having issues with the screws that hold in my cleats. I think I've mentioned this. I lost another one on the other shoe yesterday so I replaced it with a new one. It didn't hold. By this afternoon I only had 3 screws and 4 holes. My clear would lock on my pedal and not twist free. Arrghh. My plan was not to go all the way back to the town where I found the screws, but by the time I got to the turnoff I'd changed my mind. I had tried biking without being clipped I and it was exhausting to my leg. That wasn't going to work. I'll need to buy a bunch of those screws and hope that eventually I can get them to stay in. Just 3 more weeks. Please. So I went 20 kms out of my way tonight, got my screws, and got back on track.

Looking for a place to stay and hearing from a local that the District Council here frowns on freedom camping, I followed Maori advice and turned in to the first marae I spotted to see if I could camp. Sure. Showers too. Come for tea...which I forget means dinner. I'm in good hands tonight!

BagLady

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