Day 6 - The Alps, Col de l'Izoard

October 19, 2014
Le Lais, France

I'm not really equipped for frigid temps. This is suppose to be a warm weather tour. This morning I awoke to a frosty tent. Hadn't doubled up the sleeping bags yet, but did have my fleece, cap, and sox on. Figure it had to be about 30*. Mornings are the toughest trying to keep my hands and feet warm while packing up. I have now only one pair of six. Lost another or stuck them someplace special...so special I can't find them:). And I have Seal Skinz to wear in my sandals biking. I only have sandals with me: biking, hiking, and flip flops. So with only one pair of sox and needing them dry tonight, I put just the Seal Skinz on. Not much warmth there. Keep jumping around. Oh my toes are frigid. And I have this thing called Reynaud's Syndrome which makes my fingers and toes shut down in the cold adding to the challenge. Gotta be tough, girl! No whining! And I knew it was not going to improve once I started biking. Toes in the air, out front, get cold! A ways along, when I knew I had to warm them and I found a patch of sun I stopped on the side of the road and pulled the sox off and warmed them with my hands. Then I put my fleece gloves on them while I had breakfast. Ahhh! Finally warm again!

Where I spent the night last night was like in a mountain bowl with mountains all around. It was a "one horse town" with old tattered buildings and one bar. Looked like it was trying to make a come back. Down this lane there was a picnic spot. They always cry out to me: Camp Here!




I had 7 kms (4 miles) to reach the top of the pass. It took me 5 hours! SLOW! I find a lot of reasons to stop when the pedaling is hard. I like to rest. Take pictures. Walk around. Eat. Eat some more. Pee. More pictures. I felt like I was out west somewhere, like California mtns.













(Photos tipped sideways won't upload otherwise...go figure!)

It was a fabulous climb. And I sure looked happier than all those folks grinding away on upright bikes.

Here's a scary way to go down:




But this sure looked fun:



Those are hang gliders. Doug, you'd have loved it!! There were so many. Got to see the landing spot way down in the valley, but of course couldn't get my camera out in time.

The ride down was fun, but had to bundle up. I kept it slow because it was too beautiful to miss anything. The mountains broke out into this expansive valley then steep rocks like the Wind River Range of Wyoming.




And then I was in a big town again and before I knew it, the sign for another Col or pass of over 7,000 ft. This one I didn't know about. So I have 2 more to cross. Ugh. I started to climb but my legs are beat. There's a mowed field. Just pass under this little rope. "They don't mean me!" Tuck in the corner. Good night!


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Day 5 - Another Pass

October 18, 2014
Near Col de l'Izoard



Day 4 I didn't write a blog. Day off. 7th anniversary of my Appalachian Trail thru-hike summit! Wahoo!!

And since I was in a big town I decided I'd splurge and get a room in the old section of town...my favorite. In Briancon, the old section is way up on the hill. The old guys really liked to put their villages and castles on the top of steep climbs. Just before the big climb I decided to get out of my warm pants. It was cold when the day started and I didn't do my usual shorts underneath my pants so all I have to do is pull them off. No. I've got to take off one and put on the other. In town. I'm getting good at this! Voila! Now I can handle the climb. Up and up I grind. I don't mind climbing too often. Well some days I'm not in the mood. But luckily in the Alps, I'm up for it. I go up and find the entrance to the old village.






No cars allowed...but bikes are okay! So I head in through the old gates and slowly cycle around taking in the view. Stop. Dismount. Go look over the edge. Amazing how these things are constructed. Go to take a photo...and...no fanny pack! NOOOOOO!!! I can't lose that. OMG!!! I think I'm gonna throw up! No time for that. You took it off when you changed into shorts. Ya, but I put it on the bike seat so I wouldn't lose it. I had to have put it on. Oh, this can't be happening!!!! This is worse than the frame breaking! I think I'm gonna be sick. Get yourself together. It's not here? No. Then you'll have to ride back down. It was a quiet spot where you changed. It's probably still there. Oh, I think I'm gonna be sick! This is the worst thing EVER! Ok. Back on Blaze. Calm down. You'll be ok. What's that up ahead? Could it be? Just 50 ft from where I stopped? YES! It fell off? How did that happen? Who cares! Everything's okay. Whew! Gotta double check the buckle I guess.

So I pedaled until I found a small hotel in the narrow streets of the old village. How sweet. Just what I want. 89€. Ouch! Come on. After 6 + months on the road you can afford this. It's just what you wanted. Ok. I'll take it. Got a place for my bike? Yup. In the cellar. Sorry Blaze. And a bathtub. And two windows opening into the street. Great.



When I pay that much for a room I feel like I should just hang out in it:). But I didn't. I went wandering. I love old buildings. Just wandering is my favorite thing. Up one street. Down another. And this is a steep walking town. Lots of steps.







But one night was all I could afford. So this morning I took off. With new plans to head south over two passes into Italy. I can thank Guilluame my Warmshowers host for the idea. He heard how much I loved Col de Lautaret! I said ok after I checked the grading of them.

So today after getting resupplied I headed out into the most glorious Indian summer day. Pedal. Pedal. Up and up.

What's that noise? No! The back wheel is grinding. Still? On what? My weight forces the suspension down and the tire is scraping the rack. Not again. I'm tired of problems!! The new red suspension elastomer that sits in a wedge is collapsing down to half it's size. The old one didn't do that. And it's worse when climbing because of how my weight presses against it. A quick email to ICE but they aren't going to know what to do. I've gotta figure this out. I need more stuff in that wedge to hold it open. What do I have that would be spongy? Hmm. Pedal. Scrape. Pedal. Scrape. This is bad. What if I put a folded inner tube in there? It's spongy. It would keep it more open and then off the wheel. When I stopped for the night I chatted a guy on the road up to see if he thought it would work. Maybe. So I put it in there.


What do ya think? Then out walking tonight I found an old sneaker. Hmm? Maybe the insole folded would be better.


That's better. I think my weight will keep it there. It's all pretty tight. Love it when I figure out a fix. This may be permanent!

Oh and here's tonight's campsite.


Looks more dramatic in person.


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Day 3 - The Alps, Col de Lautaret

October 16, 2014
Le Montier - les-bains, France

Wahoo!! Up and over!! Was a long, slow climb where I averaged 4.4 kms / hour! That kilometers! It was only 6 miles to the top but bunches of switchbacks. I know I can! I know I can! And the views were to die for! But the lighting of very overcast skies and drizzling rain made for dark pics









I met a Belgium couple at the top. The man wanted to come over and feel my legs...and did! Then they invited me for a tailgate wine and of course I said Yes.







Lunch at the top. A fill up of water. Added warm layers. And off we went. I only wanted to get down to tree line for the night hoping it would be a bit warmer. Last night I think was around 40. Had my old 30* bag, long johns, and added my sox and fleece during the night. Tonight I'm already bundled up. Haven't unbundled since flying down 6 miles to this ski resort town. Found a sweet campsite just back of town on the river...again.




Gonna be another cold one. Good for sleeping 11 hours:). Sun is setting 6:30ish. Dark by 7. And no light until 8 am. I cannot and will not get up before the sun does. Why? I've got no place to be!

Today I finally hit a town when the street market was open. Got fruits and veggies. Then tonight I'm too cold and too tired to cook. Eating leftovers: pasta and pesto that isn't as good as mine, that's why there's leftovers. Had it for lunch too. Making myself finish it.

I don't want this trip through the Alps to end. I love the mountains! And the exertion to see them, smell them, hear the cow bells, linger in their beauty. That's one reason today took so long. I found a million reasons to stop...and I always like reasons to stop...especially climbing:)

Tonight was mending night. My tent stuff sack is always needing it's seams mended. My solar panels clip ties break away and have to be re-glued. And tonight I wanted to try an idea I had for a fender. There's a top and a slant on my rear rack. The top I put my plastic bag nighttime seat cover folded over. But the slanted section that parallels the sea at has me worried. I tried zip tying a flat piece of plastic to it, but that when I found out how much my suspension gives when I sit down. It was scraping the plastic when it looked like it had tons of clearing. So, I thought, something curved. A plastic bottle. And voila! I found one on the side of the road yesterday. Right size. Tonight I cut it and zip tied it and Yes, I think I've got it!



I found a candle by the side of the road today and picked it up. New evening ritual began tonight: drinking ginger tea by candlelight. Ahhh....



Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Day 2 - deleted photo

I have so many problems uploading portrait photos from my iPhone. What gives. This photo is great! Tried just turning it landscape to see if it posts. If it does, you'll have to tip your head. It uploaded easily to Facebook.




Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Day 2 - The Alps

October 15, 2014
Les Freaux, France

What a beautiful autumn day to be cycling through these mountains!







Other than a steep section in the beginning , it's been a delightful climb. I'm not sure exactly what altitude I'm at...over 3,000 ft. The top of the pass is about 6,500. I'll cross it tomorrow. The two challenges today were tunnels and signal lights to alternate traffic through work areas. The tunnels were noisy, but fine. The work areas were hard because the lights are timed for cars and I know I won't make it through before the oncoming traffic starts. They only shrink the road at the work site so there's always a double wide stretch before and after. I just have to time when I cycle through that small bit. And the road crews helped me :)

But when I got to this


I knew I had a double whammy: tunnel with a light! Oh me! Oh my! This should be fun! As soon as the oncoming cars came through I started not waiting for the light. As it turned out, the construction was at the far end and several light changes occurred before I got there. And when the workers saw me, they signaled when it was safe to continue past the skinny part which was on a curve. Whew! Love the claps and cheers I always get from those guys!

Finding a campsite looked like it was going to take time. There were pulloffs that I considered, but using April's attitude that something better is just around the bend, I continued. I was following a river all the way through this valley and could see a forest road on the other side with fabulous camping spots. How do I get there? Let me see if Google Maps will work and show that road. Yes! And there's a small town just up the way with a crossover. So that's where I went. The town is old and dilapidated. But I'm in a grassy bank on the far side of the river. So sweet!

Deleted photo here...

Oh, saw some signs of the Tour de France on the road today.



Tomorrow, Col de Lauterat!



Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Day 1, The Alps

October 14, 2014
Bourg D'Oisans

I think I need to write up a summary of all of Blaze's issues and how they got resolved because I write my blog but also post updates to Facebook and it all gets confusing to me who knows what.

1. Broken frame. ICE sent replacement frame to Lyon. I was 200 kms away. A local man found a shop that did a repairing weld and I crab-crawled my way to Lyon

2. Rear hub ball bearings. First afternoon out of Lyon, I found it unbelievably difficult to pedal hills. Even the flats were a challenge. Local mechanic who put me up for a few days found the bearings shot and got me and my tire to a bike shop for repair

3. Front end pull. Christophe, the mechanic, spent hours working with me both in his living room and out on the road getting Blaze aligned. Then, ICE sent video which started process all over. Problem is, ICE dealer in Lyon routed cables incorrectly:(

4. Rear dereilleur pressing tire and dropping off on climbs. Did adjustment to stop dropping and got to a bike shop in Grenoble who found the NEW dereilleur mount bent. Luckily dealer in Lyon gave me old one.

5. Rear wheel grind. Rear fender has caused much problems since day one. Piece of crap gear. Many repairs over the years. Christophe tried to get it to stop rubbing, but problem became worse and it was actually shredding rear tire. Finally I threw it away!

6. Front dereilleur chain knotting. This one is intermittent and I think is due to a gunky chain. I try to clean it often but it builds up inside the links. Chain holds onto gear all the way around and doubles up jamming dereilleur. Weirdest thing! I have to loosen dereilleur and pull it up to let chain drop away. Oh well. Quirks!

Yesterday Blaze felt great. Slight front end pull but won't be resolved until cable routing corrected.




(Visited the Chateau of Vizille)

So yesterday was an easy start up into the Alps. Climbed about 1000 ft over 20 miles. Road mostly has wide shoulder until you see this sign



Then I guess you're on your own to fight with the cars! Note arrow on pavement and biker symbol.

Spent the night in a field off the main road with an amazing rock formation for the view



Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Blaze's Issues Continue

October 7, 2014
A new dilemma was resolved by a stranger. Yesterday, after leaving Lyon with Blaze fresh from the bike shop she had a hard time when we hit the hills. Acted like the brake was on, but it wasn't. I could barely bike on the flat. Almost in tears. I can't cross the Alps like this. Don't even think I can make Grenoble. But stopped for water, then, although it was only 4 pm, I asked if I could camp. Too tired to continue. And later that night, when Dad came home, I found out he was a machine mechanic! How lucky was I? In the morning he figured out, with much difficulty it was the rear wheel ball bearings that had gone. Off to the bike shop. They didn't have them. He found then in a parts store. Came home and he got her all back together. Yippee! But a stomach bugs that's been annoying me for a week now has me laid up here an extra day. Rest now. Bike tomorrow:)

October 12, 2014
Vizille, France
(Outside Grenoble)

What a vortex! I spent 3 nights with the Poulet family. Every day Blaze was grunting and groaning about leaving. He pulled to the left. His fender ground. Always something. I would be packed to go and he wouldn't want to...and the family invited me to stay. Thursday morning, when yet again after hours the night before and that morning working in his tracking and fender scraping, he was making noises, enough was enough. The family couldn't deal with me any more and the energy changed. I couldn't blame them. I needed to take my bike and my gear and my grinding noise and move on down the road. I was sorry it turned a tad sour at the end with one too many requests for Christophe's help. And I totally understand. They were so wonderful to me, this strange American woman on an even stranger bike. Thank you for everything!!! Food, laughter, assistance, and patience! Such a treat to spend time on your "farm".










So with her butt grinding away intermittently with the rhythm of her tire, I pedaled on down the road. Can I make it to Grenoble 95 kms away with this sound? Many hours of work, remounting fender, analyzing things had not figured it out. It only happened when I was riding. The added weight did something back there. And then just as mysteriously, it stopped. Then it only happened now and then. Keep going. Get to Grenoble.

Then on a long downhill I realized the pulling of the brakes was quite serious. Normally on a trike you need only brake with one hand. It stays straight. But this day if I didn't keep both hands on the brakes, I'd have crashed. Scary. Another problem needing adjustment.

Then, the chain kept dropping off the rear low gear, sometimes just after I got it on. And that damn dereilleur was pressing the tire in the lowest gear, braking the wheel. I DONT NEED ALL THESE ISSUES! I'm not a bike mechanic!! I'm learning, but forget just as quickly. Age is a wonderful thing...not!

So there I am, standing on a hill on the side of the road googling to find out which screw turned which way stops the chain from dropping off largest gear. Ok. Got it. Slight turn of L to right. Nope. Dropped again. A bit more. Of course at first I thought it was H and messed with that for a few times. Dropping chain again and again before I got it all figured out. Arghh! That's better. I can at least keep pedaling now.

Then one time the chain doesn't shift even though the shifter had moved several clicks and I dismount and go look. OMG! It's hung up and severely twisted. Don't break! What's going on back there????

Do you now have a feeling for my misery? Someone on FB suggested I get a bus to Grenoble. I'm in rural France on small one lane back roads. No busses here! The only way out is riding or walking. If rather ride if I can. It's a tad but faster....but only a tad:)

Gotta mention the storm the first night out from the Poulet family's place. I found a sweet spot by the side of the road around 4 pm. And I was tired of issues and ready to quit. And a storm was brewing.




And as always, the rain didn't start until the tent was up. Thank goodness! Yup started raining about 5 pm and didn't stop all night! 12 hours of rain!! And thunder. And lightening! Shook me a bit and I love thunderstorms! My tent held up well and I survived.

Made it to Grenoble yesterday and I had a bike shop all picked out. They guys were standing around when I arrived so I figured they weren't to busy. He was only interested in the dereilleur issue. Not the fact the cables were routed all wrong (thank you, Lyon), or the front end pulled left again, or the fender rubbed, or the brakes pulled. He got him up on the rack, dismounted the dereilleur and using a measuring tool determined that the metal mounting plate was bent. They were trying to straighten it when I said it was new on Lyon and the mechanic there have me the old one. "Get it. We'll put that back on." Ok. Good to carry spares!

Got him back together and on the ground. "All fixed," says he. But what about the brakes? Ok. They readjusted them. I could tell I didn't want to get into rewiring the cables and redoing the tracking. No. Not feeling it with this guy. I'll just adjust it a bit more myself. I know my toe-in alignment is compensating possibly for the incorrect cable routing. One offsetting the other. Hope it doesn't cause too much tire wear. But at least I know how to adjust it and Christophe gave me the right wrench.

So now I'm sitting in a campground at the base of the Alps. Weather forecast is severe T storms this afternoon and tomorrow. I've decided to wait until they've passed before venturing up into the mountains. What's one more day?











Oh, and in Grenoble I saw tent cities of homeless for the first time. I didn't feel comfortable taking pictures. How will the make it through the winter in so little a shelter? Quite large communities right by the main road. Hmmm. My homelessness is so comfortable and there's so difficult.


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

October 6, 2014
East of Lyon, France




A week off the bike has a price. But I think there's more than a drop in conditioning going on. Blaze has a new rear end and I was hopeful we'd be able to sail (or grind) our way over the Alps.

I have to thank Guilluame, my fabulous Warmshowers host in Lyon...and I mean FABULOUS! Especially when a 2-3 night stay turned into a week. He, Isabel, and son Victor were so kind feeding me, giving me a room with a French doors to the backyard, key to the apt, and lots of directions on where to go and what to see. Come to Colorado in a few years and I'll try to do the same for you!

Since Blaze's surgery took longer than expected, I did get away to visit Edelweiss, a PCT (Pacific Crest Trail) hiker I met 4 yrs ago, at her home in Chambery in the Alps for a couple of nights. Delightful family. Quaint town. Amazing mountain cottage. Delicious local food! Great time!






Back to Blaze. So today we cycled out of Lyon. The worst traffic and truck filled roads. But a bike lane helped. Then I pulled onto the hilly farm roads and as I climbed it felt like the rear brake was on but intermittently. I unhooked the brake so it couldn't be the problem and it continued: grind, free, grind, free. Almost the pace of my pedals. My left knee began to throb from having to work so hard. Even slowly trying to roll downhill it would pull to a halt. Yet if I picked it up, the back wheel spins freely as do the front. Perplexed! I'd say it's a hub issue that's affected by the weight. I don't think I can ride the 100 kms to Grenoble. And I know that if it isn't fixed, I won't be crossing the Alps. I can't even push it. It does it then too. And it's not the dereilleur hitting the wheel, which happened in Ireland. I had to quit at 4 o'clock today because I just couldn't continue. I've unloaded Blaze and looked her all over. Nothing obvious. When I have issues like this, I begin to think I'm imaging it, but I know I'm not. Something is seriously wrong.

But I'm on a delightful family's small farm tonight. I saw Nicole taking the trash to the road and stopped her for water. Then feeling the wind whipping around me, sensing a change in the weather, knowing I couldn't go up another hill tonight, and seeing lots of camping spots, I asked about camping. Yes. And now I've been invited to dinner too. That's good because it's too windy to cook:)

I opened my food pannier after a week and realized I had left veggies in there and they're composting! Yuck. Cleaning the pantry just got done.


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

What a Day!

September 27, 2014
In the woods near Lyon, France



Breakfast!

I decided to go the longer, quieter route today and what a difference it made. I was pedaling up the road and saw a woman watching me out the window, so I did my usual wave. I'm a friendly gal:). By the time I was in front of the house she, her husband, and daughter were by the gate to see me go by. So I stopped to chat. And got invited in to lunch. I hesitated because I have this date with Lyon for repairs, but decided quickly that I had time. So we rolled Blaze into the courtyard. I spent a delightful couple of hours with John Luc, Marie Christine (I think), Sandra, and Luc...their kids.


You know I love to talk but my lips move faster than my mind and I jumble all the tenses up. But they seem to understand. We had lettuce and vegetables from a garden, her father's I think. And roasted duck, which I've never had before but was delicious. And green beans from a garden. Dessert was fromage blanc, white cheese, which is freshly made cheese not yet aged or hardened. It was delicious! I also got some help on a route into Lyon which Luc printed out for me. So off I went papers in hand, worried that he was sending into the mountains and the roads would be steep. I was right! They were! Thanks Luc:). Some were so steep that I would set my eyes on a point 50 ft ahead and push to get there before I could stop. Up and up these quiet, beautiful single lane paved roads. Up into farmland and views.



And then a big road and a several mile downhill to end the day! Yippee!

Found a woods with tables and a bathroom for the night. And as this family was leaving they were admiring Blaze so I went over to talk. Everyone wanted a ride and of course I said Yes. The kids too! Such fun. They even invited me to come and stay at their house for the night, but alas it was getting late and I was mentally and physically done for the day...but the offer warmed my heart, and I told them. Didn't get names. Oops! But they're going to make a BagLady banner tomorrow for me to see if I ride by:)). I hope I do. This is when I don't like deadlines. Have to push on to Lyon.



Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Fun Kids!

September 26, 2014
St Symphorien de Lay, France



Been finding some great camping spots: outside the walls of a medieval town last night and in a town park with bathrooms (water, power, cold showers) tonight. Both times led here by locals. It pays to talk to people.

I got some "fromage de chèvre" (goat cheese) the other day and made my version of Mac and cheese last night: macaroni, peppers, onions, tomatoes, and goat cheese...yum!



Today while I was hanging out in a small town eating flan from the patisserie for breakfast a group of people stopped to chat. Oh, my French is so broken but I do try and tell what I'm doing. It was 2 social workers with kids from a special school in that town. Mostly early teens. They were such fun! The kids were shy but I was able to get a couple of them to try and ride Blaze. Oh the smiles! And they all had a bit of English that they spoke to me. We shook hands and shared names (but you know my memory:))...Marion was one of the adults. I have a picture I'll share if they're able to get the parents permission. But at least I have that photo for my memories even if I can't post it. That's why I travel!! To see those smiles and the joy I'm able to bring for just a moment. Thank you for stopping to chat with me...it made my day!!!!!


Then on to the laundromat! Oh happy day! Found it okay. And a smartly dressed woman was there doing some washing and showed me how it worked. But she misunderstood the soap bins and I only had soap in the prewash (I found out later reading the wall sign). And then I put my 2 sleeping bags (a 50* and a 30*...gotta control my temps) in their own dryer. I had scrubbed my Chaco hiking sandals to use as tennis balls. Too bad I didn't worry enough about making sure they were thoroughly dry. They aren't. So here I lay tonight in two damp down bags hoping my body heat helps finish the job. I tried to use the sun this afternoon, but no luck. But at least the bites seem to have eased up.

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman