Saturday, October 13, 2012

The Next Adventure

Saturday, October 13, 2012
Fairport NY

My motto, if someone asks me to join them on an adventure, is to say Yes unless I have an absolute reason to say No. So when Sylvia Halpern (www.myrtletheturtle.me) asked me to join her biking SE Asia for 7 months, I said "But I just got off the plane from Europe! I need time at home before I can decide." And she patiently waited while I adjusted to being home, went backpacking in Maine, vascillated every day thinking about going, and got bored not traveling... and said YES! Let's go! It was a torturous decision, but I want no regrets in this life (well, only a few) and I had nothing to do this winter and I would have been reading her blog wishing I was with her. So I booked my flight to Singapore. Sylvia already had her flight and a guesthouse lined up. When I went to book (using those great frequent flier miles), I had to arrive about 31 hours ahead of her...at 12:20 in the morning. Being cheap, and thinking the middle of the night is not a good time to check in, I'm planning on crashing on the airport floor til morning. (I've actually slept in the Singapore airport before, so I know my way around:))

So the plan is to trike - ya, we both ride trikes, how cool is that? - from Singapore to Beijing, through Malaysia, Thsiland, and across China. 4000 miles. 7 months. Yup, somebody who likes to go as slow as I do! I'm doing it! I'm biking around the world - just in stages. It's gonna be such a blast! Two blonde ladies on trikes pedaling along into little Asian villages. Can't you just see us?!

Here is a rough map of the route we will be taking.  I haven't a clue how we'll actually cross China other than enter up the Mekong River by "ferry".  We're flexible and will make decisions as we go along.  Nothing's written in stone:)



Two weeks left to get ready, store the car, prepare the house for winter, enjoy these autumn days, and fret over "what am I forgetting to think about?" My mind is exhausted from thinking, worrying, concentrating, exploring, and processing.

Some exciting new things on this trip: using an iPad to journal and process photos and videos while on the road, downloading library books (both evokes and audiobooks) on the road, staying indoors every night -no tent, and traveling with another trike, and biking through third world countries. I'm glad I'm going with Brave Sylvia:) !

So that's what's going on right now. Next update will be from Singapore!

Keep on pedaling,

BagLady


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Departure Day

Wednesday July 25th



I'm leaving for home with mixed emotions. I had to book my flight a couple of weeks ahead and my mood then was different than my mood now. But finding an airport to fly out of was not easy seeing as how I was using frequent flyer miles at the economy level. So I didn't really have the flexibility I thought I would. And thinking about going to another new country with all the adjustments to language and culture yet again is exhausting. And I know that much of it will also be the same as the last 5 countries, too. So I think everything is unfolding perfectly:)


Spending a few days with Heike was relaxing and wonderfully easy as usual. She has become such a dear friend. And she was such an amazing help with getting my boxes for me and helping understand that my worry was normal.

But everything went amazingly well at the airport. They accepted my dimensions for Blaze's box. And they never weighed either one. All that worry for naught.

So a quick shopping trip through the airport to use up the few euros left and I'm on my way for a very long day to the open and welcoming arms of dear friends back home:)))

So what have I learned? Wild camping is less accepted in Europe though not impossible. I like some time alone AND I like companionship. I make friends easily and wherever I go. It's just so much harder with a language barrier. I like to talk. Surprise. Surprise. I continue to do something while the enjoyment outweighs the hardships, but when that shifts it's time to change plans. I can and did handle everything that came my way: the abrupt departure of my traveling companion, rain day after day, being asked to break camp and move at night in the rain, trying to get info even when there's no common language, finding out where I was or how to get found when misplaced using mutiple maps and map app, building a new box in 6 hours with a toy box cutter, heavy cardboard and only 2 bike boxes. And I'm sure there's things I handled and have forgotten. there never was a plan for this voyage, only many options: bike Europe with Fuat for 4 months, break away after a while and bike some of Europe solo, go on to Australia and New Zealand if I felt like it. Options. Go with the flow. See where the current takes me. And that's what I did.



Going home with a smile on my face:

5 countries
8 weeks
40 inches of rain (my estimate:))
1500 miles (2500 kms)
Many, many new friends!!!

Whew!!!

BagLady


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Hamburg Tour

Tuesday July 24th
Hamburg, Germany



Heike suggested I go into Hamburg for the day. It isn't a city I've ever thought much about. But that changed after yesterday.

First excitement: taking the train. I'm not a pro at this so Heike did the research to find the trains and stations I needed. But I didn't take good notes. Going in I was on the right train, but didn't know which stop to get off at. I had the name for the end of the line. Looking at my map, I realized I missed the right stop by one. Good mistake. Got off at the central station. Classical music playing:) Delightful! But where exactly am I and how do I find the Rathaus Markt? Too big a city. Couldn't find the right streets on my map app. Ok. Here goes. Turning on my phone. Use the GPS. Ahh. I see where I need to go. Turn off phone. Route stays on Google Maps for me. Yippee. Nice stroll through Hamburg on a sunny morning. Find coffee and a Danish. Got it! Find the meeting point for the Free Tour. Yup!

While waiting for the tour to begin, struck up a conversation with Natasha from Brazil now living in Germany. We enjoyed the tour together. And her German friend joined us too.


Hamburg is a quite beautiful city that was severely burned during a horrible fire in 1842 and then bombed in WWII. There is a memorial remains in the bombed out shell of a church.


A stark reminder. It's a major harbor city with lots of canals. And there's also an island that's a model of urban development where many apt buildings, offices, hospital, and university are being built.



And then there was the trip home. Got the right train which was packed. Squished. Can't breathe. Hot. No air. Can't hear the stops announced. Can't see out to read the names.


Ask a woman to help me get off at the right one. She says most everyone will get off there. Here we go. I'm off. Can breathe! Check board. Train isn't listed. Check map. Looks like its a station too early. Ask for help. Confirmed. Ok back on. One more stop. Home!

Boxes all packed. Ready for bed. Early morning coming. 11:30 pm. Go to sleep. 12:30 am GO TO SLEEP. Getting up at 5:15 am. GO TO SLEEP . It's 1:30 am! You need SLEEP!!!! Finally.

BagLady


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Monday, July 23, 2012

Boxed!

Monday, July 23rd
Quickborn, Germany



Today was the day I've been dreading since I landed in Dublin: the box rebuilding day. And it was not nearly as bad as I feared. Heike, the dear that she is, had already retrieved 2 enormous bike boxes for me. They are probably from ebikes. And they are really heavy cardboard. Oh. Ohh. Gonna add weight to the already heavy bike and a weight limit of 70 lbs and no way to test it before going to the airport. But it's built!!! Heike was seriously impressed! Ye of little faith, as we say:)

The other problem has been finding a box for the rest of my stuff. And don't ya know, when Heike went to the dumpster to throw away the scraps of cardboard she came back with 2 box possibilities. I think one will work fine as long as I pitch any unnecessary items and pack carefully leaving no air pockets.

So the plan is to go into Hamburg alone tomorrow by train and take another Free Tour. I'll have done 3 if the 12 available. I really enjoy the history and humor:)

And we've had some delightful evening bike rides. So it's been a peasant, relaxing visit. Heike and I never fail to laugh and have fun:)))


Lights out. Busy last day in Europe and 24 hour trip home. I should pedal home from Newark - probably get there faster!

BagLady


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Sunday, July 22, 2012

Last Night on the Road


Saturday July 21st
Gluckstadt, Germany



1:11 pm. Made it! Had a goal of getting to the ferry to Gluckstadt by noon on Saturday. Set that goal in Bremen. And I was there at 11:30 am! I didn't know when it ran or how often but I needn't have worried. Every 20 minutes! It's a freeway!





So now I'm 20 kms from Elmshorn and can go at my preferred pace.

Sitting in a cafe sipping a luscious strawberry milkshake.


Ahhhh! And no wifi in town. I'm gonna check with the hotel before leaving. I see a great business venture: bring wifi to Germany! You'll make a bundle!!!

Sunny day too. Woke up to it! Sure does raise the spirits. (Wifi would raise them a bit more:))

6:30 and I'm parked for the night on the edge of a field on a back country lane. I had to wander around a bit to find my spot but I think I'll be unbothered here tonight. And I have about 5-10 kms to go tomorrow to meet up with Heike which isn't til 1 pm. After pushing every day I'll have time to sit and read a book tomorrow. Hope the sun cooperates.

My last night in my tent, on the road anyways, is always bitter sweet. I am ready to come home. I've tried on the idea of taking a train to Italy but I just don't want the hassle of another culture, language, rules, and loneliness. I know no one there. It would be "the same, but different". I'll save that for when I find a biking partner. And maybe plan it with hostels and campgrounds. It's not sounding as much fun already:)

No regrets. Everything happened as it should have. Perfectly imperfect:)



Home on Wednesday and on to other adventures. Looks like I'll be joining dear friends from the AT (Appalachian Trail) for their final stretch. Willing and Abal will be doing the 100 Mile Wilderness in Maine the beginning of Sept and have invited me to join them. Sounds like a plan! It's taken them 5 years to section hike the trail and I've joined for a bit every year except last year. I hope this biking has conditioned me for climbing Katahdin:). I remember it was a doozy and that was after 2100 miles of hiking!

Gute nacht,

BagLady


Love this family in blue cycling together...note 4th on sidewalk.

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Getting Close

Friday, July 20th

11:00 am I slept 11 hours last night. Woes me, guess I was tired! And awoke to no rain. Packing up dry! Felt a bit odd. Stumbled around on the route this morning off course twice already. I'm getting much braver. Not afraid that they won't speak English. Even if they don't, I think they can help me. This morning I stopped a car to get help. That's a first in Germany.



And now I'm in a little restaurant getting my coffee for the morning. Had a fruchplunder (fruit Danish) from the grocery store for breakfast 10 minutes ago when I was getting today's salad for dinner and some bread. Needed to charge both phones so when I found this spot, I'm getting coffee, charging and lunch all at once!! Donertasche. That's what I'm having. Gyro meat in a wrap. I'll be giving up meat again when I get back home, but here it's such a big part of the diet and would really limit my options.



I passed through the prettiest area this morning. Findorf. Beautiful homes and gardens. Otherwise it's most farm land. Also beautiful, but in a different way.


7:30 pm I'm camped out in the open this evening on a quiet lane on the edge of field in the woods...sorta. Can't be in the dark deep woods again. I can't see why anyone would mind and I need to get my mojo back. Some men out for an evening bike ride had stopped on the road and were commenting about the bike, so I stuck my head out, but my English scared them away. They were smiling and friendly though. If someone comes, I'm not moving. They can darn well haul me off to jail. It's a dry evening though after another day of rain on and off. And I'm enjoying having my tent open and the evening light pouring in. The field has oats swaying in the breeze...stiff breeze at that...but the woods block me from the worst of it. And the sky has...no, had...the most beautiful white fluffy clouds against a blue background. It's cloudy now...the grey, rainy kind. Don't know how long the dryness will last.

2nd the last night on the road. Very ready to come home!

Gonna keep this short and sweet...oh, oh, heard a car...is this the time...no, guess not...no one's is there.

Oh I do want to share about trying to find postcards and cash in the last sizeable town. No one wanted to speak English with me. One gracious woman, when I went to the bank and it was already closed, worked with me though to finally tell me where an ATM was. I don't know what they call it here, but it's the machine that I put a card in and I get euros out! But postcards were hard. DId finally get a couple but I had to ask and ask and ask. And when they do use some English with me, I thank them for it! And I love the folks that at least try and help me and don't just look at me like I'm some creature from Mars...I get that sometimes. Lunch ordering today was stumbling but I managed to ask enough questions pointing and he answered and pointed...and we figured it out together. He had some English though, so that helped too.

Ok, going to bed early and hoping for a long uninterrupted night. Keep your fingers crossed for me!

BagLady


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Saturday, July 21, 2012

Heads up - watch the post dates

They posted out of order. So be careful how you read them.


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Destination: Bremen

Wednesday July 18
Bremen, Germany

I woke up knowing I couldn't lay in bed...but I wanted to:). So comfortable! Ahhh! But I have to get to Bremen in the afternoon. 5:00 at the latest. I want to have time to talk with and enjoy the evening with Cornelia, Stefan, and Florian.

In the morning, Frank felt better and it was a pleasure to get to know him over breakfast. Love your jokes,Frank! Sylvia had maps for me and we talked about route possibilities:
- follow Geesweg signs. Longer but scenic
- follow main roads, quicker but noisy and still the problem of negotiating through busy areas
- follow cycle routes (red dotted lines) on one of the maps and shorten the route but still have it scenic. That's what I decided to do after I got started.



That is thick, slippery mud that I can barely pedal through and don't even want to get off of Blaze. And it's on a road I'm having to take to get back on track...

And of course, I missed a turn. Got lost. Got found. Stumbled my way and lucked out coming into the city on a bike path very close to their house. Yippeeeee... It worked!

It's not easy hosting us when you live in a 3 & 4th floor apt. Blaze got tucked into the basement and she fit rather nicely I might say. And all my gear got hauled upstairs out of the way of the other tenants. It worked just fine!

We spent the early evening touring historic Bremen. Incredible architecture 600 years old! And quite ornate, I might add.






And when you're not tour guides and are asked lots of questions, it's not easy. But we managed to find most of the answers:) I still want to know the history of the house built so close to the church. There's something interesting about that arrangement, don't ya think? Let me know when you find out, Cornelia.

Fascinating city with the most adorable "nooks and crannies". Loved walking around it!

Back home Stefan (who went home a bit earlier with Florian) had a scrumptious couscous salad waiting for us with that crusty brown German bread. And we had lots...and I mean lots...of strawberries. I stopped and got some as a house gift, but Cornelia had also picked some up at the market. I'm sure they'll all get eaten.

I had the most delightful time before dinner playing with Florian. Now remember, he doesn't speak English and I don't speak German...but we can speak IPHONE GAMES! It's a great way for me to connect with kids. Cornelia said she was watching us and I was speaking English, Florian German and we seemed to understand each other:)

He didn't want me to leave. It was so cute. But he doesn't like his picture taken so I had to respect that and don't have one to insert as I would like. Thanks, Florian, for the grandmotherly moments and the high five this morning!

I was dragging, so it was off to bed for me at about 10:30 while my clothes were still in the washer. I couldn't wait up for them. And the foam fold-a-bed was sooo, sooo comfortable. If I ever have a real bed again, that's all it's going to be made of. Oh did I sleep!

BagLady


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Sleeping in the Open...Getting Brave Again!

Friday, July 20th

11:00 am I slept 11 hours last night. Woes me, guess I was tired! And awoke to no rain. Packing up dry! Felt a bit odd. Stumbled around on the route this morning off course twice already. I'm getting much braver. Not afraid that they won't speak English. Even if they don't, I think they can help me. This morning I stopped a car to get help. That's a first in Germany.



And now I'm in a little restaurant getting my coffee for the morning. Had a fruchplunder (fruit Danish) from the grocery store for breakfast 10 minutes ago when I was getting today's salad for dinner and some bread. Needed to charge both phones so when I found this spot, I'm getting coffee, charging and lunch all at once!! Donertasche. That's what I'm having. Gyro meat in a wrap. I'll be giving up meat again when I get back home, but here it's such a big part of the diet and would really limit my options.



I passed through the prettiest area this morning. Findorf. Beautiful homes and gardens. Otherwise it's most farm land. Also beautiful, but in a different way.

7:30 pm I'm camped out in the open this evening on a quiet lane on the edge of field in the woods...sorta. Can't be in the dark deep woods again. I can't see why anyone would mind and I need to get my mojo back. Some men out for an evening bike ride had stopped on the road and were commenting about the bike, so I stuck my head out, but my English scared them away. They were smiling and friendly though. If someone comes, I'm not moving. They can darn well haul me off to jail. It's a dry evening though after another day of rain on and off. And I'm enjoying having my tent open and the evening light pouring in. The field has oats swaying in the breeze...stiff breeze at that...but the woods block me from the worst of it. And the sky has...no, had...the most beautiful white fluffy clouds against a blue background. It's cloudy now...the grey, rainy kind. Don't know how long the dryness will last.

2nd the last night on the road. Very ready to come home!

Gonna keep this short and sweet...oh, oh, heard a car...is this the time...no, guess not...no one's is there.

Oh I do want to share about trying to find postcards and cash in the last sizeable town. No one wanted to speak English with me. One gracious woman, when I went to the bank and it was already closed, worked with me though to finally tell me where an ATM was. I don't know what they call it here, but it's the machine that I put a card in and I get euros out! But postcards were hard. DId finally get a couple but I had to ask and ask and ask. And when they do use some English with me, I thank them for it! And I love the folks that at least try and help me and don't just look at me like I'm some creature from Mars...I get that sometimes. Lunch ordering today was stumbling but I managed to ask enough questions pointing and he answered and pointed...and we figured it out together. He had some English though, so that helped too.

Passed by a place today that was marked on the map as KZ.



I couldn't read the signs about it, but I think it had something to do with the holocaust. There were a lot of barrack type buildings all boarded up. I took a picture of the signs for Heike to interpret for me.

Ok, going to bed early and hoping for a long uninterrupted night. Keep your fingers crossed for me!

BagLady


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I'm Not Going to Let Anything Take the Smile Off My Face

Thursday, July 19th
near Vollersoda, Germany
weather: you guessed it!

Oh, I didn't want to wake up this morning, but I knew Florian was leaving for school at 7:50 and I wanted to see him again before he left. He gave me a high 5 when I walked into the kitchen! Thanks:))

I didn't want to upset their morning routine, but luckily Stefan wasn't working until the evening and could help me out a bit this morning. I had to get my clothes dry at the laundromat, get wifi at the coffee shop, and find cycle maps for the area north of Bremen.

And the weather wasn't cooperating. But I managed to get my things done, get Blaze loaded up, and Stefan led me to the Bahnoff (train station) to a store with lots of cycle maps. It's a good thing he was with me because the guy spoke no English. We managed to find a good map and a route up to the ferry where I need to go the next couple of days. Stefan got info on where to find the route and what the route symbol looked like and off we went, him joining me for a few kilometers.

We said our goodbyes at the end of the park and not 200 meters later I couldn't find the sign. There was a bridge straight ahead with a symbol that said it was only a people bridge so a followed the pathway to the right where it dead-ended! Back to the bridge where I saw another cyclist cross it, so I did...and there were my signs. Ok. Good. Turn left. Go for a short ways and come out on a major street. No signs. Well, I think right is correct, so I go that way. On and on and no signs. After awhile when I'm thoroughly wet...and so is my map...I decide to go back and check signs again. When I'm getting back, I see across the street way down to the left (probably couldn't have seen them from where I came off the path originally)...signs! So I keep going. Following the sign symbol we had decided in the map store was the right one. The signs are also saying what towns this path is leading to, but I don't know the towns, so the names mean nothing to me. And it's raining so I'm not pondering over the map. On and on I go. Eventually, something just isn't seeming right. And when I can explore the map a bit, I find out that the symbol I was following went to the northwest as well as the northeast, the way I needed to go. I was off course. And the rain was the hardest, wettest rain I've been in this whole trip. And the wind was blowing so hard I couldn't use the umbrella which made me wetter....wet through everything (except my coat:)) Pants were just dripping! And the rain hit my face so hard it felt like hail. I was not a happy camper. Wet, lost, but in good spirits...and I don't know why. I will find the way. Just find a town in the direction you need to go and follow the auto signs...screw the cycle paths. And I did that for about 15 km.

I finally got to Worpswede, an artist community. Don't have a clue what road I came in on and my sense of direction was all turned around. After asking a few different people, some speaking little English but trying to help me anyways, I got a woman with good English who knew where I could find cycle route signs...near the bahnoff. Ok. Works for me.

So I'm back on the route, camped in the woods for the night. It's freezing out! Like a November day! And I have lots of time to make the distance I need to go, so I should be good.

I just don't have any candy or sweets tonight:( Forgot to get some and it's making me cranky!!

Time to say goodnight,

Thank you Cornelia, Stefan, and Florian for a wonderful time in Bremen and for sharing yourselves and your home with me:) It meant a lot to me and rejuvenated me for the last leg of this incredible journey! Have fun on your camping trip:))



(Insert adorable, blonde, 7 yr old boy...)

BagLady


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