"Keep It Between the Hedges"

August 6, 2014
(Happy Birthday, Nate!)
Castlerock, Northern Ireland

Camped in an open field surrounded by woods tonight. Last night we camped next to the remains of a church an cemetery built in the 1300's.


Night before on a coastal overlook.


Night before that along a stream by the side of the road.



Night before that in a campground we took refuge in during a torrential rain storm.

Been a hilly and rainy week. But between the hills and the drops we've met some kind Irish souls and seen castles and cliffs and unusual geological formations.

PHOTOS DELETED

And I had a 65th birthday this week. Hate to admit my age, but it is what it is. And how many women my age are doing what I'm doing? (Or would want to, some would say:)). April began my special day with coffee cake. Rich cake flavored with coffee! Perfect! We got to eat it at every break!!! And candy! And colored pencils to draw with after she's gone and I do more of my artwork.


Now this is Aug 4th and I have 3 hats on my head to stay warm. Summer has a whole different definition up here:). Then when the sun comes out, I'm stripping everything off!

We are cycling the Coastal Route which hosted the Giro, an Italian cycling race similar to the Tour de France and pink bicycles are everywhere along the route.

PHOTOS DELETED



Last night as we left Dunluce Castle pondering with locals about where to camp, an Irish elderly gentleman said, "We have this saying up here: 'Just keep it between the hedges!' ". And I knew then the title of my next blog!!!

There's been a lot of fascination about our bikes and our tour. Exhaustingly so. It's nice having April here to buffer them and handle her share. Too much of a good thing, I'm afraid. I like to share but telling the same story again and again and again does get old. We're starting to keep it simple. Sometimes we just say we biked from Madrid with no further explanation. Sometimes I just say we're biking around the world without explaining that April's going home. And sometimes they even get to sit:)




Ya know how I've struggled with ticks and midgies (no-see-ums or sand flies) in Scotland? Here in Ireland it's yellow jackets. Aggressive ones that keep harassing me even as I'm walking away trying to eat my breakfast. Argh!

Livin' the life,

BagLady

The Kindness of Strangers...Again

August 1, 2013
Larne Town Park, Northern Ireland




I did it again. Got behind in my blogging. Let's see. Last weekend back in Kilmartin, Scotland, after the worst day ever we road only 5 miles. Stopped to check out a museum about the archeology of the area's stone circles and ancient stone cairns.




Then the heavens opened up and the museum folks tucked our bikes in a tent in the gardens. We tucked ourselves into the local pub across the street. During a break in the rain we got tents up for the night on the greens. Next morning, with the weather unchanged we hung out in the pub again. Got to know the owner, all the staff, and some guests:). Ran into a staff person the day we left at the grocery store in a nearby town and she said we were sorely missed.

We ferry hopped our way over to Arran Island, cycled around it for a couple of days. Stopped at a museum and I got a lesson in spinning yarn on a spinner. Hard work!



Then we hopped across to the main land at Ardrossan. I had to collect a package at the post office there: replacement credit card, replacement side mirror, and replacement earbuds. All essentials!!! And did we have "trail magic" there. First we stopped at a bike shop because my rear derailleur was all messed up. In the lowest gear it was pressing against the tire acting like a brake. No wonder those hills were so hard! And April's brakes were messed up and misbehaving. The shop guy fixed both quickly and easily for no charge. Then I went looking for a particular size Allen wrench. I've been looking for awhile only to find kits. So this hardware store first tried some strays they had lying about. Wrong size. He hands me a ring of 8 or more wrenches of which I only need one. I told him I'd buy it but he could have the rest back. I wasn't carrying them all! He grabs the one I need, pulls it off and hands it to me. Then hands my 2 quid back and says "it's yours!" Thanks, I beam! So nice! Then we cycle down to a local campground that will cost 10 quid per night per person ($17) and when we arrive I asked if we could just buy a shower. "The shower is free. Here's the key. You have an honest face!" Home run! She even gave us directions to the coast to camp and gave the security a heads up in case we decided to come back they were to let us in. Too kind!

And then today. We woke up about 17 miles from the ferry port. I knew that the first ferry for Ireland left at 11 and we pretty much decided not to try for it. Besides, you're suppose to be there early. But we broke camp an hour earlier than usual because it was so cold and windy. Eventually we decided to go for it and pushed ourselves. Of course then we made wrong turns and got lost. Eating up time. With 45 minutes until departure I'm sitting at a roundabout trying to figure which exit and a car pulls up, rolls down the window and says, "going to the ferry? That way. 20 minutes." Yikes. Pedal, pedal, pedal! Pull up to ticket window. Lady calls down to boat. No. Full. Can't take them. Really? You can't find room for two wee bikes? The next ferry is at 7:30 pm arriving at 9:30. Late. Near dark. Not good. Finding out the tickets were cheaper online, we left the ticket window to book them. April suggests we do it from her phone in parking lot before leaving. While doing this, a ferry guy comes over to us and says they'll find a spot for us...get going! Another miracle!

Then we had the most delightful visit with Phyllis and her mom, Betty from Scotland while we shared a table near the plugs for charging devices. Loved hearing they're stories and having a glimpse into their lives. Then TJ stopped by...the guy at the roundabout who gave us directions...remember? He won the bet with his wife that we'd get on when he saw us pedaling down the gangplank. He also kindly shared his contact info if we should get near his town. I hope we can!

The kindness of strangers, every day, just sometimes makes my heart burst. This is why I travel. Just in case you wondered.

So tonight we're camped in the town park along the water's edge and we've already been offered showers and power for our phones. (We've also been warned of drunken teens that may be a problem...oh, we'll. Do you think chaining our bikes to our tents will help? At least we may be awakened if they try to take them!)

Sleep well...


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Heading south on Sustrans Cycle Route 78

July 24, 2014
Glen of the River Nettles
Taynuilt, Scotland

We ferry hopped our way back to Oban and met up with our new friends from Australia, Deb and Ron, getting a night off the road, hot shower, laundry, delicious roasted chicken and veggies and great company!! The house they've "borrowed" is at the top of a very steep hill and they each graciously pushed us up it:)
The stories these two shared we're endless and we were totally entertained. Top it off with watching the Opening Ceremonies for the Commonwealth Games only 60 miles away. Oh, how ignorant I was about the Commonwealth. 71 countries under the Queen of England. Who knew? I thought the British Empire was a thing of the past. It's alive and well, so to speak. That's why it's so important for me to travel. I have so much to learn about the world. History and Current Events turned me off in school. I couldn't "feel" them. I'm a bit less ignorant now. We sadly said goodbye with my hope of seeing them again in Australia. They should be home from their year long jaunt by then.



Today is April's birthday so we had to celebrate it with a great undulating ride across the Scottish land. Steep mountains all around as we went up the valley. April was cruising. She's found her triking legs. I think she stole mine! I have no energy. Climbing is a grind. Biking is a grind. I'm so tired. Just drained of energy. Maybe it's related to this skin thing which is getting better. A nightly dose of antihistamine seems to have broken some cycle. We've gotten the ticks under control too but I'm sure 50+ tick bites was hard on my immune system at the same time as the itch outbreak. Hopefully I'll be back on par soon. Thanks so much for all the ideas and suggestions as to what could've have been going on. I did talk to a pharmacist and a nurse for possible explanations. Too hard to diagnose.

So tonight it was time for dinner and birthday cake!




Livin' the life,

BagLady

OMG! Ticks

July 21, 2014
Strontianite, Scotland
(Where the element was discovered)

We've gone and done it now! Spent lunch and drying our tents in a best of newly hatched ticks. All over us! All over our clothes, our gear, our bodies. Picking them off has been a challenge because the are the size of a pin point. And I'm freckled. And I'm covered in scabs from scratching those itchy blisters. Luckily they are easy to remove even when attached because they are so so tiny! April and I have had to lose all modesty with each other because now twice a day we inspect each other's back, butt, torso, and backs of legs. And remove all the new attachments. It's a dirty job. As I write this in my tent tonight, I know I have a tick munching my butt that won't get removed until morning. I can't get it and the midgies are swarming are tents so neither of us is going out. Next tick inspection and removal is not until tomorrow:). How long will it take until we are tick free again? They don't wash off and I can't see them on the dark fabric of my tent so the only option is removal from my body when found. Then wait to see if they carry Lyme disease which is not very prevalent in Scotland, thank goodness.

We met a delightful couple our age in the campground last night from Australia and New Zealand that are bumming around Europe for a year. We ran into them in town this morning and got invited to the house they're staying at in Oban. So we're headed there in 2 days...having to actually slow down...if it's possible to go any slower:). They also cycle tour so it will be fun to swap stories.

Oh, did we have a climb this afternoon. And I had no energy to do it. None. Nada. Zippo. But had to do it anyways. April passed me when I dropped the chain (on the rear derailleur) for the second time. But after an hour of climbing, we were rewarded with the most amazing views of lush green mountains and distant lochs. Words just don't describe it. See that lone tiny white house in the middle of nowhere?



Tonight we're camped in a sheep field down by a creek. We're allowed to go onto anyone's land, through any gates. Just leave the gate as we find it, open or closed. The sheep were a bit surprised and upset to find us here on their way "somewhere".




Livin' the life,

BagLady

In the Air

June 30, 2014
Somewhere between Lisbon and London

After 3 days in hilly, worn Lisbon we are off to London. Lisbon was a bit too hectic with narrow, cobblestone streets; trolley cars; tuc tuc motorcycles; buses; and tourists for my tastes. Old world for sure and I'm glad to have seen it. I'm getting a bit tired of sightseeing and really don't care if I see another church or monastery. But I do enjoy seeing where the real people live and connecting with locals. That happens better in the rural countryside.

And this week I have London to do...my daughter Avery's favorite city. She did a study abroad there while in college and says 2.5 days is hardly enough:). We've booked 3 nights in a hostel over a pub in West London: BackPackShack. Love the name! They say they can handle our trikes. And we're going to cycle the 11 miles to there right from the airport...after reassembling our bikes and gear. Glad we're landing in the morning! It appears there are cycle paths right away at Heathrow most of the way to our hostel. So that's good!

Then we have to figure out what next. I was planning to cycle the Cornwall peninsula but British cycle friends have said it may be too crazy because it's holiday time and the roads are narrow. I hope to talk to some London local cyclist, maybe at a bike shop and get another opinion. If that's true, we may have to fork over more $$$ and take a train (or boat or plane) up to Scotland to cycle there. Besides the cost, we're abut concerned about the midgies. Oh my! And y'all thought this was easy what I do...just pedal. Meanwhile I'm trying to figure out where I go next after April goes home. Can't go back into Schengen visa countries for 3 months, late September. Stay in UK and Ireland until then? Fly to Croatia mid August, then cycle to Istanbul staying out of Schengen until late Sept? Go directly to Australia and skip Europe because it's getting too difficult? Go back to USA and cycle there for a few months? Got a bit of time for the answer to come to me. Any suggestions? What would you do?




Livin' the life,

BagLady

Mull Island...continued...

July 19, 2014
High in a meadow outside Kilchoan, Scotland ...in the rain

If I may, a few torments are coming. Rain is getting a bit hard to take. And we've been lucky not to have 2 consecutive days of rain. But last week we spent 36 hours in our tents. And I ended up with a back ache. Well, more like pinching...paralyzingly pinching, when I go to stand or step wrong. Good thing it doesn't bother me biking.

And we're in our tents now. Going on 5 hours this evening. Eating a cold dinner of snacks in our perspective tents. Barely able to hear each other over the din of rain on the tent. Get lots of reading done this way. Picked up Atlas Shrugged by Ayn Rand back in Tobermory today. First book I ever read for pleasure at age 20. Wonder how it strikes me 45 years later.

(Oh, I held the screen open a bit too long and midgies came in...even in the rain...another torment, but tolerable.)

So the other major torment I have is an unknown cause of itchy blisters (like poison ivy) breaking out for the last 2 weeks all over my body. The only place they haven't popped up are my face and scalp and the bottoms of my feet and palms of my hands. Not concentrated in any place either. Seems systemic. Coming from within me. And oh my god...the itching is nearly unbearable!! I've scratched them raw. Can't help it. Have asked many locals even a pharmacist what locally could be causing it and no answer except midgies. But it's not them. Most of the places blistering are covered and midgies can't bite there. They bit my face usually and it dissipates soon after. No blisters on my face. Have no idea how much longer this will continue. I'll have no skin left. All either scratched or flaked (dry skin to the max) away:). Don't know what to do except ride it out (P.S. No poison ivy here.)

We spent about 24 hours in Tobermory the largest town on Mull Island. The town treats were showers, laundry, and wifi. Too bad I didn't have any blog posts ready to send. Sorry. Too busy!! We got all three at the Harbor Building a facility that supports boaters. We even camped behind the building last night. Sweet!

Today we ferried back to the mainland to Kilchoan, the furthest western point of the UK mainland (or so the sign said.). Lots more single track roads to get back towards Oban and civilization, sort of. I love cycling these single track roads because it makes the motorists slow down and cooperate. Idyllic for us cyclists!

The rain, or the antihistamine, is making me sleepy. I need to sleep.

If anyone has any suggestions for this itchy, blistery outbreak, please share. I'm at my wits end...and I didn't have far to go.

Oh, I'm including the pictures Angus took of us the other day. He also wants 50-70 words of copy about cycling Mull Island. Perhaps I could become a travel writer:).







Livin' the life,

BagLady

"I'm Not Having Fun Anymore!"

July 16th
On a soggy point overlooking a loch on Mull Island, Scotland.

Been in my tent for nearly 24 hours. Weather: rain and wind. Rained most of the night and morning and then the wind picked up so we never broke camp. Tonight it's raining cats and dogs, cold and windy (although lessened a bit...my tent isn't laying across my face any more). And when the weather's bad, even just windy, there's no cooking to be done. Tonight I'm eating soaked ramen noodles and tuna. (Thanks for the idea, Willing!) Not bad. The food bag is nearly empty because what else is there to do in a tent all day? Read and eat and sleep. Done a lot of all three!

April just shouted from her tent, "I'm not having fun anymore!"

We've had a rough couple of weather days...luckily they were consecutive! Tomorrow's suppose to be sunny again. Good thing...we have a lot of drying to do!!!




Livin' the life,

BagLady

Mull Island....

July 10, 2014
Loch Buie, Mull Island, Scotland

Slap! Ouch! Slap! Ouch! When it's not the midgies biting us, these large biting flies have found us! And they hurt!!! Midgies are tolerable, I'm finding. And only come out morning and evening. The biters are all day long whenever we stop. No protection on the bike.

This island has what they call single track roads...one car wide. And pull offs frequently on either side of the road. So it takes patience to drive and bike here. And planning. And give and take. I rather like it. We're respected and drivers are pulling off for US!!! What a change!!

Went to our first castle today. Duart Castle built by the MacLean clan in the 13th century. But more amazing was the restoration done about 100 years ago. The place was a crumbling rock shell and was fully restored to a residence for that time period.



Then later we opted to take an 8 mile road to a dead end at Loch Buie because a local we met last night said it was his favorite spot. It's beautiful with the steepest mountains surrounding us. But my favorite is this little store in an old tiny post office that runs on the honor system! They have drinks and cheeses and fruits and ice creams and frozen meats and jams and post cards and...and...and...and no one is there. There's a locked box to put your money in and a basket to make change from! The way it should be, hey?



So that's where we're camped tonight. With a family in a camper van from Switzerland. They roasted sausages from the shop over a camp fire. Fun to watch.

We are wandering and really taking our time now. It's a treat! We have plenty of food. Water runs off the mountains. And no place we have to be for a change. Idyllic!

July 11th
Zero day. Too beautiful here and everything we need: fresh mountain water and food at the "honesty shop", along with some hikes to do. We hiked to see a stone circle, but I don't know what one is. Perhaps from Celtic times. And we followed a dirt track for quite a ways along the shore. Sun. Must. Clouds. Sun again. Must be in Scotland!

And a nap! Great day! And Mull Island sausages and snap peas for dinner, bought at the little store and cooked over our Pocket Rocket. With mashed potatoes...yum! But those midgies are out tonight because there's no breeze to be felt, so early into our tents. Tomorrow we have to cycle back over the mountain that April pushed Wildfire over to get here. Never nice knowing what's coming:(




July 12, 2014
Heading to Fionnephort, Mull Island, Scotland

Rain! Rain! Rain! Heavy rain. Light rain. Mist. Constant mist. And even when it wasn't raining today we were wet from the rain and couldn't get dry. And it's been raining for the last four hours almost steadily. Had a challenging time finding any place to camp. There are no little roads off the main, single track road. No places running down to the shore. Just wall to wall ferns! When we did find a place that someone had mowed back, there would be a no camping sign, that it was a picnic area for a local inn. The last time we saw that, I decided "Tough!" These are desperate measures. So we rolled the bikes down onto the rocky shoreline and managed to get a tarp tied up between the rocks and the trikes. Shelter while we waited for a break to try and out up our tents. After we got our tents up while it was only misting, April says, "How high do you think the tide will come tonight?" Yikes! Well let's ponder this and watch from underneath our tarp. The grasses appear to be different at different levels. And there's seaweed on the rocks up only so high. I think it will be close, but I believe it won't reach our bikes or our tents...and it didn't.



So here I sit, damp clothes and socks and jackets all around me...my pants hanging suspended from loops in hopes of drying tonight...right! But a supper of Incredible Curried Chickpeas by Jamie Oliver, although I heated, was delightful. And munching crackers, cheese, cookies and chocolate because there's not much to do in a tent for hours on end:). Thank goodness I have a thick book with me! Ah, Scotland...if it's not the midgies, it's the rain...I'll take the midgies, please.

July 14th
Iona Island, Scotland

Yesterday we had the distinct pleasure of being photographed for the Scotland Field magazine with Tom..., a freshly knighted professor of history from the University of Edinburgh. We were stopped by the photographer as we cycled by an old mechanics garage with old gas pumps outside and asked if we wanted to be in the photograph. Why not? So he lined us up by the pumps with the knave behind us leaning on an odd tire jack, I think. Then he kissed our hands:). The photographer asked if he could also photo us on the road for a later issue about traveling Mull Island and got a picture of us coming down the road together. We had to do a do over because traffic got tied up behind us! Pics to follow if I get them!

This Iona Island is so quaint and we had a lovely day of touring yesterday. There's a ancient nunnery and abbey here. And just lovely rocky hills.







In an old cemetery I found my grandmother's name although the Katharyn isn't spelled the same.



Since wild camping is frowned upon here in the island, we decided to use the campsite...besides, it had hot showers and it had been over a week since we had one! Sweet spot we mowed grass to camp on and even a picnic table.
Rained during the night, but stopped this morning so we decided to break camp since we could tolerate the winds...besides our tents were dry. By the time we got packed and pedaled out to the road, the rain started. By the time we cycled the 1/2 kilometer to the ferry we were drenched. Now what to do. Go across to Mull in the rains and see what comes or go back to hot showers. We should never gave left, but sitting all day in a tent is pretty boring.

So here we are in a cafe with wifi, writing and posting blogs, charging our devices, and catching up on the news back home. Is the World Cup over?
It's not all fun and games touring the world. Sometimes you make a bad decision and have to figure out how to cope with it.

Livin' the life!

BagLady

Glencoe Valley to Oban to Mull Island

July 9, 2014
Craignure, Mull Island, Scotland

Doesn't seem like there's enough hours in the day. Since I'm not traveling alone, I don't have as much down time and get behind in my blogging and then feel like I can't find the time to catch up. Argh!

At the suggestion of a tourist who stopped by to chat one rainy day we took cover at the closed information office, we rode up through Glencoe Valley past a bunch of Munros. This guy named Munro mapped all the peaks in Scotland over 3000 ft and now those peaks are called Munros. This woman had just driven east on the road and said when she came through this particular section it was so stunning she drove back to drive through again. And she found that westward was even more beautiful. So at her suggestion away we went. And it was stunning!! And pictures won't capture it.





Then at the visitors center for this area April found out about a bike path that went south to Oban...that's where we get the ferry to Mull Island. Since we don't know what we're doing and the road conditions are stressing April out, we can take this. And it was delightful! Miles and miles down an undulating paved path along the loch edge! No cars! No stress! Pure pleasure. And when we'd already passed up one possible camping spot on the shore to find something better...and weren't, we got a bit nervous. Hadn't yet learned about "the right to roam" law. But we came upon this sea castle on a small island out in the water and asked a local if we could camp near the boat house and she explained that we're free to camp anywhere except in someone's front yard. The Scottish do not believe in trespassing laws because so many Brits owned so much land up here and the Scots wanted to be able to walk wherever they wanted. It's great! So we camped HERE:





And today we got down to Oban and caught the ferry over to Mull Island where we'll spend a week or so. "Hard telling, not knowing!"

But I can tell you we have another beautiful campsite tonight:)



Livin' the life!

BagLady

Sintra and Lisbon are Both Hilly!

June 28, 2014
Lisbon, Portugal



Ok, now I've cycled some hills in my lifetime, but nothing like we cycled the last few days! OMG!!! Steep, windy, narrow, trafficky...yup, 'bout sums it up!!!!! Poor April...I was killing her! But the cars and trucks and busses were so considerate of us grinding our little hearts out on the side of the road.

We got into Sintra and decided it just had too much to see that we needed to stay a night. Besides, it was getting quite populated and wild camping was going to be difficult. Sintra is really a suburb of Lisbon being only 20 miles away...and there's even a commuter train to there...but I get ahead io myself.

First we needed to find a hostel with room for our trikes. Not always an easy task. One popped up on Google Maps so over we went. Old building. Gigantic, old foyer. Third floor walk up to hostel:(. Back in 45 minutes, said the sign. Check online...booked a twin room for 30€ ($20 ea). Yes!

A quick tour of some of the historic district with houses hoping straight up the hillside, castles on the hilltop, palaces all around...and cars and busses and tourists everywhere...told us we needed to ditch these bikes. There's was no way we'd cycle up any street here and we'd clog traffic trying. Back to the hostel. Bikes could stay in foyer! I stashed my camping gear in a little used closet I found under the stairs. Not carrying all the stuff up 3 flights! Adorable hostel. Free breakfast included. Scored! Now to figure out what to see in a short afternoon. A tour guide mentioned the amazing gardens of Quinta de Regaleira and the hostel host said the Pena Palace way up on the hill was not to be missed. And there was a Hop On Hop Off bus you could get for 5€. I like that! Our legs were burnt from cycling into this hilly town. Nothing left to walk hills with..no!

The Pena Palace must have been what Disney modeled its palaces after:










And the view was amazing too!

But I forgot to mention the excitement on the bus going up there. The streets are very, very, very narrow with many blind curves. The driver breed around each one because he had to put the bus across the whole road to make the turns. What did we meet but a loaded Harley Davidson with a couple on it. They stopped just barely before hitting the bus, but the weight of the bike slowly tipped them over! They they are, the men off the bus, pushing it upright again! And then we all went merrily on our way, but the bike had a few bruises and the riders may have too. Whew!




On the way down to town center, we went to the gardens with caves and pools and waterfalls. Again, landscaped up this steep hillside with tennis courts, aquariums, and grottos galore! This is a staircase built into a cave.





The next day we had to get into Lisbon and my original plan was to bike in, but April came up with a better plan: train!!




And what a great idea it was...it let us off just over a kilometer from our hostel. Who knew that kilometer would take us an hour to do! Steep like I've never known! 15% grade or worse! I'd say. Then add cobblestones, and trolley tracks, and streets that are one car wide, and go in every possible direction...always UP! So lost! But rescued by some guys when our trike tires dropped into trolley tracks and we were blocking traffic!



And Johnie's Place, although it looked sketchy from the outside is adorable too and plenty of room for trikes!

Next we have to get ready for flying to London, so I need a box for my gear:



Livin' the life!

BagLady