Sunday, June 15, 2014

Coimbra

June 15, 2015
Coimbra, Spain



Can you see I'm getting caught up on my journals. Unlike many bloggers, I have no rhyme, reason, or format to how, when, or what I write. Tis what it is. It's only for me. You just get to read it:)

Sleep deprived was understated. Three nights of disturbed sleep in a row:
1) dogs barking
2) train
3) partying outside my window

Got my fingers crossed for tonight, but they're already blasting the WC games in the square across the way. Can't open the room window because it's so so loud.

So I need to continue my story of getting to Coimbra (pronounced coh-eem-bra, accenting the eem).

The asst conductor awakes us (I was already awake...and so was April when I had to pound on the sleeper door after locking myself out to go to the WC - water closet). Time was confusing because of an hour time change and the train was 40 minutes late (probably due to us when we got on:)). And he wasn't sure what side if the train we de parsed from. And he wanted all if our gear staged for a quick exit. Then he told me to follow him. He had said the conductor was going to help me unload my bike. So we're walking through car after car until we get to the engine room. He's looking and looking. But I didn't know what for. The conductor? Then he looks worried. He can't find my bike. I try to tell him it wasn't in this direction. It was a couple of cars in front of ours. So back we go. We get to where my bike was put and the first thing I notice is it's on the other side from where I placed it. Now I'm worried that it tumbled there. But no. It was moved. Moved so we could open the door to deboard. The conductor joins me and we wait with the door open for the train up stop. Feeling a bit like a hobo riding the rails at this point:). We get the bike down. Mr Asst Conductor and April unload everything else. And the train departs. Hope we got it all! Here we are in the dark (6am) and the fog on a train platform in another country with no phone (read Google Maps) and no idea which way to go to town. Hadn't done my usual prep work. Stupid me. We start riding towards town but the signs appear to lead to highways. That's not what we want. And there are curbs. Hard to get off this road. I saw a bar open on a side street so decided I needed to ask someone. Do they even speak English here? Will I understand enough? Gotta get help so in I go. Does anyone in here speak English? Blank faces. Might as well tell my story and see the response. So I do. Then one guy confesses that he does, a little. I smile. A little is all I need! And usually it's more than they realize. So with him drawing me maps and explaining the hills of the village and getting our hostel address on his smart phone we're all set! Then as we're pedaling away April spots a map of Coimbra on the medium and we go take pictures for future reference. Invaluable once we got into the bowels of this beautiful, worn but elegant, and HILLY city. I must say April has done a great job of staying up with me when I'm trying to figure out where we're going and turning this way and that. Kudos to her. It can't be easy.

We found our beautiful hostel but it was only 7:30 am and check in wasn't until 2. Several people helped or talked to us this morning. And all apologized for being drunk. (The bars stay open all night. ). But listening to their stories and accepting their help was a lesson in dropping judgements. The last guy told us to just ring the bell and put our stuff in the hostel. Mareese was able to check us in, provide storage for our bikes and gear, and give us maps and ideas of what to see and do.


That's the bikes stacked on their sides in a crawl space of an old stairway. Half the door was painted shut.

This is a major university town built on a steep hillside up from a river. The houses go right up the hill.



And the amount of English is so impressive. So much more than we experienced in Spain. And their accents are good too.

Yesterday the children of different neighborhoods were celebrating.



Livin' the life,

BagLady

Sleep Deprived

June 15, 2014
Coimbra, Portugal

Music, World Cup game announcement, talent show, partiers...we had it all last night. And like Spain, the Portugese don't believe in sleeping at night. It's cool then, so PARTY! The music was great! So rhythmic and emotional, I found myself I initially grooving to it while it penetrated my sleeping brain. But this was the 2nd night of poor sleep so it didn't stay enjoyable for long.

But first I need to tell the story of getting here. Nothing is ever simple in the travels of trike touring and now with 2 trikes the adventures are magnified more than twofold. We cycled into Plasencia, Spain, a town I thought would have public transportation out to Portugal. Given the heat wave, April and I decided it might be cooler at the coast. Then, too, we'd have a slow leisurely trip down the coast to Lisbon with plenty of time to catch our June 30th flight to London.

So I go into the bus station to find out about a bus to Porto, Portugal. The guy doesn't speak English but writes on a piece of paper the names of 2 "somethings" about where I get the bus to Portugal. I sit down and figure out these are 2 towns south of us. They must be the connections. Ok, let's see what the train folks have to say. They say we have to go back to Madrid to get the train to Porto. Not doing that! But a train goes to Caceres, the first town on my list. Let's take the train to Caceres and there catch the bus to Porto. Sounds like a plan! They said the bus' bike section was full, but she'd ask the conductor when the train arrived if our bikes could go on. Yes! And off we go for an hour's ride to Caceres, Spain. Lucky us. The bus station is across the street. They tell us we have to go to Salamanca to get a bus to Porto. And stay over one night because the only bus leaves at midday. We have 2 bikes...special bikes. Fold them small. Ok. Out in the platform a guy comes by shaking his head. "Too big!!" he motions and says in Spanish. (I'm getting really good at reading body language:)). So we start to fold them. He motions that he'll have to look at the bus when it arrives. Turns out he's the next driver. He checks all the bus' bays but says nothing to us. Wait, I tell April. It's a game they all play. He hasn't said No, yet. After changing drivers and their briefcases he opens a rear bay and motions for us to load it up Yea! Luckily April has great spatial awareness and can see how best to get these buggers in this small space. On they go. Off we go.

What's that exit sign say I ask an hour later? Plasencia? That's the town we left a couple of hours ago! This bus is STOPPING in Plasencia on its way to Salamanca. We're right back to where we started. That effing bus ticket guy!!! He didn't know what he was talking about!! Arghhhh!!! The adventure continues because things are just seeming so challenging. So we'll go to Salamanca and figure it out from there. Maybe we can get the train from there to Porto. The train is definitely more fun than the bus and usually easier with the trikes.



We arrive in Salamanca to spend the night. April found us online a place to stay for 40 € right in the old section of town near the Plaza Mayor. That should be great if they can handle our trikes. We unload our pile of gear and trike pieces onto the platform and commence to reassemble to the stares if onlookers and clicking of cameras. We make quite a spectacle and it can be abut disconcerting in a crowd like that. Poor April's literally on the pavement screwing things back together. She's figured her trike out pretty quickly! Looks like we got it all! Let's get out of here. Using Google Maps on my phone, I figure out where to go, and we're off. One way streets! Yikes. Sidewalks it will have to be.

We get down to the plaza and it's "hoppening"! People everywhere. Hundreds of cafe tables and wide screen TVs. What's going on? We find our hotel and the first thing I notice is the steps up to a 2nd floor reception. I don't think this is going to work:(. But don't give up yet. I go up and ask about our bikes. Yes, we have a place: up those stairs I came up, down the narrow main hallway and out onto a rooftop. It will work, I exclaim!...not knowing if we can get them up those stairs or not! We can! We do! The lady receptionist is ever so helpful carry bags after bags of our gear up. Such kindness!

"Where's your blue sack?" Says April as we stuff our multitude of bags into this tiny room. Shit! I set it down to empty the bus and it got separated from all the rest. It's just got food scraps and odd junk in it. They never pick up litter here til morning, it's probably let still there. So I hustle on foot back. Nope not by the post where I set it. Not in the trash cans. Maybe Lost and Found. But who to ask? And how? Information is closed. There's a guy at a window. Use Google Translate. He's trying to call someone. Motions to wait 5 minutes. I pace. Go back down to the bus platform. A couple that work at a restaurant on the platform recognize me from the bike fiasco. I explain. He takes me over to a building and ask a guy who does maintenance there. Nada. Didn't see it. The couple says there was nothing left behind. Oh well. I tried. I hope whoever lifted it can use the coffee mug, knife, spork, folding bowl, visor, Boy Toy (for peeing by the side of the road), and bandannas it contained. Maybe someone in dire straits is benefitting. Nothing irreplaceable. Detachment from possessions is what this journey is about. And adjusting to whatever comes my way.

(This blog post is turning into a novel all on its own...and the story's not over:))

The hubbub in the Plaza Mayor is a festival AND opening World Cup. Game. Wild place to be!


The next day we head to the train station in the morning to figure out what our options are. 1 am??? The only train? Ok. We'll go by bus. We pack up and head to the bus staton. Full? Really? It's Friday. Busy time for busses. Guess it will have to be the 1 am train. And let's only go to Coimbra. Heard it was a cute city. We wheeled our loaded bikes into the train station to buy our tickets so they could see them. Don't think they can go, says the ticket man. Then he does his research. Only way is if we buy sleeper car tickets with births. They go in the compartment. Really? How much? 105 € each. Oh my!! The bus is half that. But this is Friday and if we wait for a Monday bus we'll have spent that staying here. Ok. And then the bikes can go.

Running errands, sitting around, replacing lost criticals from blue pack, eating, drinking...that's how we spent the next 12 hours. We're on the platform awaiting the train with our bikes still loaded because until we know what car to get on it's easier to move the stiff on the bikes. A man comes by. Not going to fit, he says. We motion that they fold. He shakes his head. But they saw the bikes and sold us the tickets. Not my problem, he motions. He leaves. We wait. Not giving up yet. We talk to some other officials, station guards probably. Guy comes back. Looks like he's the conductor. Still no. We tear the bikes apart and fold them. He's unsure. The train arrives. We don't know where to go. Of course. 4 cars down. We grab stuff and run. More stuff. Now wheel our folded bikes. He shows us compartment. No way! We hardly fit. April persists. Tried her trike. Nope. Quick release front wheels. They help her take them off. Hers will fit now. No, I say, mine don't gone off. Big mistake not having that option. Please! begs April. Find a place for her bike. He goes looking and finds a hallway in an engine car. I get it in. We're not responsible, he says. Meanwhile April with help has put her trike and all it's pieces and all our gear into this tiny 2 bunk sleeper car! Our home for the night! And once again....

WE'RE OFF!!!!!!!


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Across Spain

June 8, 2014
Calalso de Los Vidrios, Spain

Best night's sleep in a long time. I realized that sleeping in the albergues for 2 months was the longest I think I've slept indoors in awhile! No rainfly. Bright big moon. I've missed feeling the elements.



That's tonight's glorious sunset. It's been a majorly sunny day. Thank goodness for the umbrellas to provide shade or this cycling here now would be unbearable.

Today's ride had more hills and April and I both struggling. We've gained hiking legs but our biking legs are weak. We may have to catch a bus to shorten the distance if our mileage doesn't pick up. Time will tell. Always keep your options open.

But tonight we have a California view of rocky terrain and mountains:)t

June 9th

Should have paid closer attention and not climbed that hill out of town this morning:(. April wasn't too happy with be to say the least. But we pulled it together and got going in the right direction.

Hot! Hot! Hot! And windy. Headwinds! But the worst part about that was not being able to use my umbrella much. Yikes. Sizzling in the sun!! And sunscreen doesn't help. I could not find enough shade trees along side the road to suit me. Makes the UK look better and better this summer:)

Tonight we're camped up in an open and mowed meadow off an old road we found. Sweet spot next to an old stone wall with a view of the mountains to the north.




We're taking a primary road across underneath a mountain range to the north. If I had a real map, I might be able to tell you what mountains:). But who needs a real map when you have Google Maps? Now, power don't fail me! I've added a real power pack to my system that carries enough power for a couple of charges and it actually works on the iPhone. I can recharge it with my solar charger.

The countryside reminds me of cycling in Idaho up to Stanley. Rolling mountains. Beautiful. We've had some tough hills, but we made it up them:)

The people have been excited to see us: honking, waving, and clapping out the car windows! They stop to talk...and we usually are able to converse somehow. We stopped for breakfast at a field entrance and two country bumpkins (husband and wife, salt of the earth) came by. And you know they didn't speak English. So they spoke Spanish and we answered in English and a happy energy exchange was had! It's truly amazes me how people can communicate beyond language if they just try. One day we stopped some cyclists to ask directions. They spoke some English but had trouble finding the words. I to them to tell us in Spanish, we'd understand some. And we did. Hand gestures help a lot!

We are all one. And we need to remember that.

June 15th
Coimbra, Portugal

Guess I'd better finish this post about getting across Spain to Portugal. I'm trying to keep writing, but seem unable to do it daily.

Camping spots have been challenging. It's high desert that we've been crossing and lots of fenced off orchards with scrub on our side. Not conducive to camping. Crunchy. Rocky. Tilting. One night we were in the corner of an old orchard thinking we were all alone down this dirt road. Wrong. So many cars and bikes went by. No one seemed to care so we stayed. A couple of young woman one bikes came by and stopes to chat. They had seen us earlier on the road and taken our pictures, they told us. That happens a lot: taking random photos of us. We just smile and wave.

Back to our camp spot. So off to sleep we go only to be awakened by barking dogs! A pair nearby and another further away. No remember these are Spanish dogs, so they were siesta-ing all afternoon so we didn't hear a peep. Then when the sun sets about 10 pm they come alive and stay that way until around 4 am. Yup. Dogs can bark for 6 hours non stop! When they pair took a few minutes break, their distant buddy would fill the void. Oh la la! A good sleep is just impossible no matter how hard I try to ignore them.

Gotta start biking early to avoid the heat...no when I'm finally sleeping because the dogs are quiet. The sun is so hot it sears my skin. The umbrella gives most of my body shade, but my legs stick out and feel the pain. And it gets hot about 10 am! One day we did try to sit out if the worst of it about 3-4 pm. Boring! And when we started up, no difference. You'd have to bike at night to avoid the heat and pain of the sun. So we just pedaled on, coping as best we could.

They're having a heat wave here now. Higher than normal temps. Let's get to a town and catch a bus to the coast, I suggest!

Livin' the life,

BagLady