Friday, August 2, 2013

WOW...Women on Wheels

August 2, 2013
Fairport, NY
Yesterday I was honored to be added to the Wall. The Women on Wheels Wall
What a privilege to be included among so many amazing women doing amazing cycling!! Reading all these blogs should keep you busy while I'm off the road.
Right now I'm icing a tender foot. Might have a stress fracture on my right 5th metatarsal. I'm hoping it isn't and I can head to the hills next week for a 100 mike backpack through the White Mountains of New Hampshire. R.E.S.T. is my medical approach. Doesn't look like a doctor would add anything at this point. When going to the doctor's, my greatest fear is to be told to go home and rest...now pay me $200 for that advice. Since its the most common advice, I just do that first and keep my $200. My body knows how to heal itself if I just cooperate. Besides, no big event happened that could have caused this problem. I just woke up with foot pain one morning. Walking a lot that day made it worse. So no walking...or as little as possible:)

Foot miraculously better today:). More ice. More rest. And she should be good to go. Have no clue now what's going on in there. Got my fingers crossed she doesn't pull that stunt up in the mountains. EZ will have to carry me out!!

Step lightly,

BagLady

Sunday, June 30, 2013

Home Sweet Home

June 30, 2013
Fairport NY USA
Yup I'm home! Been here about 2.5 weeks. Ready to leave. Not happy to be here. Too lonely. Too disconnected. Too isolated. Like a hermit. I can have whole days I talk to no one. Don't know how to reconnect here.
But first I have to share the voyage home. 30 hours of travel over 2 nights. A few hiccups with Blaze. Patience and persistence got us through. In LA I had to move her from terminal 1 to terminal 7! Her tires were inflated so I couldn't just hop on and ride her. Besides I had my carry on luggage too. Maybe the shuttle? Yes! Even though she blocked the whole back door and isle. Thank you. Landed in the morning and managed to stay up all day, even going to an Adirondack Mountain Club monthly meeting that night. And then slept 16 hours to catch up.
One of the challenges since being home is staying to the right side of the road:). In the car or on the bike. Several times I've pulled out into the wrong lane. Oops! Especially on my bike. Takes time to readjust!

Family reunion has come and gone. Was fabulous! 27 of us got together at an Adirondack Camp near Rochester. Plenty of bedrooms, dining areas, and living rooms to accommodate us all easily. Grocery shopping took 3 of us nearly 5 hours but having the menu and shopping lists done for us (thanks, Erin!) was both a treat and a challenge. The challenge being trying to decide volumes and substitutes if needed. But we did it! Thanks Barb, my sister, and Dana, my daughter, for persevering with me especially in Wegmans:/!!!
One of the highlights of the weekend was shooting clay pigeons over one of the ponds. Dana was the only girl game enough to give it a try and she nailed one after a few stray attempts! After watching a while, and never wanting to miss an opportunity to try something new, I joined in. Rifles are heavy...and noisy. When that thing went off my ears were ringing. But I did manage to control my aim and hit one of those flying saucers! Fun!!



(Pull that tummy in!)

Hugs,

Bag Lady

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Monday, June 10, 2013

Heading Home Soon

June 4 - 9th, 2013
Auckland, NZ

Yup, back in Auckland. But not before bussing to Wellington and enjoying a last few days with Moa and Pru, getting my gear left there, Skyping with Kiwi and Alison (because they're in Spain for the year...remember the going away party the end of Jan?), and unveiling Bella the Bag Lady, the doll dear Ann from Nuhaka made for me. I really choked up unwrapping her...she's a treasure and the best souvenir of NZ. What a gift!!

Today I flew back to Auckland, said goodbye to Bruce after he gave me a tour of the west coast here, and settled back in with Cory and John, the folks I stayed with her a month ago going north. They've offered to help me get to the airport in a couple of days. Until then I'll do some shopping and packing. Got more to take home than I started with. Hope it's not over weight. Have thought of leaving side bags right on the bike and seeing if it goes that way. Would be easier:). Think I'll try it.



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Last Days

June 10, 2013
Auckland, NZ

Meet Bella, the Bag Lady, made for me with love by an elderly woman I met months ago in the east coast. Thank you, Ann Hill of Nuhaka!!! I treasure her deeply! And purple is my color!


Bella, the Bag Lady...a gift from a Kiwi woman



Notice the backpack and umbrella!




I think we look like twins!!!


I know my blogs have been a bit scattered: in thoughts and in posting. Guess that represents the author. I'm feeling a bit scattered. Zipping around by bus. Saying many goodbyes. Packing. Souvenir shopping. Not the tranquil life if peddling. And all signs of a change that's coming that I'm not eager about. I love that the family reunion is in a week...don't get me wrong! But after. What then? Don't think about it, you say? Everyone is asking me, what next? Once you start doing these extended trips, I guess it's expected that they continue. Or something's planned next. But not for me. I have to wait to be directed. The Universe lets me know What Next. And she hasn't told me yet:/. But when the time's right, I'll know.

Right now, I want so badly to pack up Blaze and pedal on. I'm not done. Haven't had enough. Tired of some things, but this week off the bike had scratched that for me...so I'm ready to roll again.

Options:
- cycle around Australia. 1 year roughly
- cycle around the US perimeter coming back through Canada. 1 year
- get a camper trailer and explore the US staying longer in different spots, looking for the place that calls me. The drawback is I'm not living on my bike. Plus is a could settle down...sorta.

All this leaves the question if what to do with the house: sell or rent. Sell is what I think is right. Cut the umbilical cord and get set free!-

June 11th



Sunrise my last morning in New Zealand. Think I'll go for a bike ride:)))

BagLady


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Sunday, June 9, 2013

Bussing It!

June 3, 2013
Napier, NZ

I'm doing a bus road trip back to Wellington. First stop was Rotorua, town of the thermals. I'm using one bike Lanier as luggage, not easy to tote around. Got into town Sat about 4 pm and the hostel I had selected on line was booked up. Really? Lately I've been the only one at the hostels. Oh, this is a 3 day weekend. Queen's Birthday Monday.

They nicely found me another place to stay and saved me lugging my pannier in my arms (no handle) around twin. 4 bed dorm. Yun, Noh, and Ester are my roommates. I'm the minority we joke! Honorary Asian. I accept:). Yun and I met first and joined up to walk the town, get some dinner and later do the hostel hot tub. Then we all agreed to do a Maori dinner and concert together the next night. Fun to have playmates!






Then yesterday I was back on the bus to Napier. Boat Boy, Bruce, has bought a new boat and its here. It's a catamaran. Huge thing. His new tour business. Got a bit of work to get it shipshape, but he says he can do it.





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Friday, May 31, 2013

Island Life

May 28 - 30, 2013
Waiheke Island

Arriving onto the island on a rainy day, I was delighted to find smiling Doug and his one room bach...a warm, dry place to crash never looked so good. I was able to change out of my pj's on the ferry so I felt a bit more together. I realized that when traveling in a fragile way (like hiking and biking are) and when your gear is in shambles, it's a bit unsettling. I have to remember TRUST. It will all be okay. My biggest fear is to be on the side of the road, no place to camp and everything's all wet. That's a nightmare! But everything works out. And today was an example. Take a deep breath and just GO WITH THE FLOW.

So I took over Doug's place hanging a bear line and getting my stuff set out to dry. The day was miserable outside: rain and wind and then hail! Doug was out for the afternoon so I chilled and dried everything with a space heater. My ability to live rustic pays off here. Outdoor shower. Toilets in park next door. Cooking on camp stove. No heat source except a space heater. Pretty basic. One one block from the beach!

Yesterday I took off for a tiki tour of the island. Quite hilly! Always concerned about getting too far away and the sun setting before I get home, so I stayed on the western half. Lovely bays with old boats moored. And more beautiful beaches. I just wanted to sit and read and write for awhile.




And Blaze enjoyed the view too:




Back at the bach, Doug cooked up a delicious dinner of mince, pumpkin, kumura, broccoli, tomatoes, celery, onion, and seasoning. Yum!


And today I've had the place to myself. Busy trying to figure out the next couple of days.

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Wednesday, May 29, 2013

All Soggy

May 27 - 28, 2013
Gulf Harbor to Auckland NZ


Heather was a treat to meet. This woman drives and repairs a 1947 truck camper! There was actually a little community living in the ferry parking lot: Brian in a proper campervan, Lilly in her car, and Heather. There's a publication when you join the Campervan Association that tells you about all the free camping spots, as well as other info. Good to know!

Just took this pic of the sunrise as I ferry into Auckland.




Just spent a challenging night camped by the ferry with heavy rain and gale force winds. Packing in the dark this morning with everything all wet was not fun. The bottom of the tent was puddles. I'm sitting here I'm my tattered marino long johns and shorts over them to cover the hole in the butt. Everything is just jammed into the panniers chaotically! I feel out of control and its not a good feeling. Couldn't find things this morning when packing, but I scoured the spot before I left so they've got to be in there somewhere. Landing in a major city in shambles doesn't feel right. Hope I can find a bathroom, find some dry clothes and get dressed.

The day has just begun:)

Oh, should explain. I cycled down to the ferry yesterday only to find it only runs in the morning Mon & Tues. (it was Mon). That's when I met Heather...taking a picture of her camper. What a sweetheart she was! Even came over this morning with hot tea for me while I packed up:).



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Last 15 kms

May 27th
Orewa Beach, NZ

Down to my last 15 kms. There'll be some local biking, around Waiheke Island and Auckland, but the tour itself will be over:(. I'm not ready for that. My legs and heart and lungs will go through withdrawal. I love pedaling all day not knowing what's around the next bend in the road nor where I'll sleep that night. Why is that? Haven't a clue.

Lots of coastal hills yesterday. But we managed:). Slowly...lots of granny stops... Up we go.

I've tried to calculate how far I've gone in NZ. My computer jumped ship at Cape Reinga. Is that a deep message? It had about 2000 miles on it. That's about 3500 kms. Add another 1000 kms I'd say because it started counting in Wanaka, South Island when a new battery was put in at a bike shop and the tweet didn't check the mileage count before I pulled the old one. So for giggles and grins, lets say 4500 kms in NZ. That's 2700 miles in 5 months. Love it! Then there's the SE Asia part and I'd have to check Sylvia's journal for that piece.

Got to to marina for the Gulf Harbor into Auckland Center and found out I should have checked a ferry schedule...or better remembered the one I did check: no ferry Monday afternoons! Oops. Have to camp out here and take the 7 am ferry.

Interesting community


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Saturday, May 25, 2013

Do Nothing Day

May 24th and 25th
Warkworth NZ

Yesterday was the perfect day in a beautiful spot to do absolutely NOTHING! I camped at Goat Island Campground, up the steepest hill I've done in NZ: gravel and pine straw...ouch! But the place and the view and the price were worth it. "Technically we're closed but since you came up that hill how about $10?" (Usually $20.). There was an outdoor club from one of the local high schools there and the first thing the teacher I met told me was "Lock your bike." No, I haven't in 6 months and I'm not starting now. Besides I don't have a lock with me...it's in Wellington because I never use it. The kids were fine...just having a good time. I put up a bit away from them and Blaze was untouched.

(It's raining while I write this in the dark of the tent. Should I be concerned that several larges drops have landed on my hand? This tent seems impossible to seal!)

So the view:





And down by the shoreline:



And the cute caravans painted up and set up with beds like little cabins (something done a lot here):







And sunrise this morning. When you go to sleep at 8, it's easy to catch it:)



Tonight I'm having strong flashbacks again to my trip last summer through Europe. Raining and I'm camped in a town park tucked out of the way. Like many a night then:)

I like moving as slowly as I've been. I think I did 20 kms today. Not really sure. Hung out at a little market chatting as usual.

Did have a close call with an oncoming car that was passing. No shoulder so I'm in my 1/3 of the road. There's not room for 3 abreast but he seems to think there is. I took to the ditch. Really? Do you have to scare me like that? Brought me to tears. I've heard daily about the bad NZ drivers and after 6 months I'm just beginning to believe them:/. Tailgating (which doesn't really affect me, but could) is probably the worst thing they do. They're usually lucky if the have one car length between cars at 60 mph. Even behind a logging truck. If he hits his breaks, they'll be toothpicks! Enough thinking about that.

I have 40 kms to the ferry to Auckland and technically the trip is done:( But I'm thinking of going with Blaze over to Waiheke Island for a few days. I hear its nice and I have the time. I hope the weather cooperates a bit. Yesterday was gorgeous, but today was very grey with the rain luckily holding off until tonight. I always appreciate that. Temps are high 50's to low 60's days and low 50's nights. So far, so good with my sleeping bag.

Back to my book,

B@gL@dy

P.S. Goat Island name was given to a lot of islands that only goats could live on because they have no fresh water source. Supposedly in days of yore goats were let loose on these islands so anyone shipwrecked would have food. This particular Goat Island never had goats on it. So there ya go!


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Thursday, May 23, 2013

John's Bach and the View

May 21 and 22, 2013
Leigh, NZ

Hmmm? Let me think. The days are running together. I forget where I camped. Been doing this too long, I guess:).

And I posted several posts today and I never checked to see that they were finished. Too bad. You get what you get. My head just seems to be spinning. And it's tired of writing...tapping out the tales of my life on this tiny keyboard with my thumbs. Tired, do you hear:))!!!!

I met the sweetest guy, Lex, by the side of the road out walking "his" dog. He's just taken a new job working for his aunt's lodge in Waipu Cove. The dog is hers. The dog's in trouble. If he gets out two more times, the Dept of Conservation (DoC) will put the dog down. Lex is trying to bond with him. When I come back, he'll put me up at the lodge for free just to hear my stories.



While sitting by the side of the road talking about the law if attraction and how I want go meet a lover who'll bike the world with me (I think I do)...up the hill walks this guy, John. He'd passed us and parked at the bottom of the hill waiting to talk
with me when I came down. I didn't come, so he walked up. A couple of years ago he'd cycled the circumference of Australia with a buddy. His parents had some property near here even though he and they lived in Australia. When Lex asked where and John explained, Lex said the view from there would be amazing!

I agreed to meet him at the bottom. Lex laughed after John left...law of attraction! He might invite you home:). We joked about it. Aw...he's probably married...they all are. He was cute, though!



It was a long hill he'd climbed. Impressive! The beach at the bottom, Lang's beach was breathtaking and I didn't get one photo. (Been quite lax these days getting pictures. )

So John and I chatted and he did invite me back to his bach. So glad I went! The view was to die for!






While he took care of some business, he suggested I hike over to


to see



The hike itself was quite strenuous



But I found out I'm fitter than I thought I was! Pitter pattered right up those hills:)

In the morning John was the proud hunter with his possum catch



The driveway up to that phenomenal view was long and steep...and of course, gravel. Blaze got another lift:)




BagLady


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Wednesday, May 22, 2013

Thru Hikers on the Te Araroa

May 20, 2013
Waipu Cove, NZ

A few days ago I met a couple that had hiked the Te Araroa. They dropped off 180 miles short of completing it because there was just too much road walking on the North Island. When we met, they were in a car and stopped to see if I needed help. I was having my lunch by the side of the road. Low and behold, they were from Tennessee and had hiked the Appalachian Trail in 2011. Country Mouse and Shadow. We must have passed an hour or more yakking. They tried Blaze and loved her. Such kindred spirits. We'll connect again, for sure.
Then today I meet another nobo (north bound) thru hiker: Scott. He's been following Country Mouse and Shadow the whole way. He almost cried when I told him they were off the trail. He's a fast hiker and been out 6 weeks less than CM and S. he was trying to catch them. I hopefully have been able to hook the three of them up in cyberspace since I had everyone's contact info. Very cool! Way to go Country Mouse, Shadow, and Scott! Impressive accomplishment!!!








I think what I learned from them is just do the South Island. Very remote. Very beautiful. Mostly in the wilderness.

Love hikers!!

And tonight I'm in the most expensive campground yet ($20) with the least facilities (no lounge or place to sit indoors)...but still had trail magic. I went and chatted with the neighbors, Jeff and Debbie from Oz, and got invited for dinner. An Aussie meal, they said:). Beef stew. Hope you're not a vegetarian. Not while I travel. And not when I visit folks. Nope. I eat most anything!

Life is good,

BagLady

Have to say it felt really, really good to be back on my trike! And on the flat with a tailwind!! We flew today. Whoa, Blaze! We have much time and not much distance to go. Gotta slow down!


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Michael and Carol

May 16-19, 2013
Whangerai, NZ

Where do the days go? How did it get to be the 19th of May already? I have a post for May 13 - 15th that lost its pics so I have to rebuild it. So that means 6 days? Well I've been cycling down the east coast of the Northland to get to Whangerai. It's hilly up here. Up or down. Only 2 choices. Good thing these legs are powerful pumping machines now! Amazing views of the water when the road swept towards a bay.



And with my new approach to finding a campsite (asking locals if I can camp in their yard) and I get a bed...it was raining:/...dinner, shower, breakfast! Thanks Wendy and Dougal!!! I also camped behind a marae (with permission) and it had power, picnic table, and hot running water. Sweet as!

I met Michael and Carol beside the road in late Feb and they offered to host me when I got to Whangerai. So I texted them a few days before to say I was getting close. The day I cycled in here (2 days ago) it was miserable out.



Pouring down rain. Cycling a major roadway with tons of traffic. Really nervous about being seen. Trucks whipping by. So glad to know I had a warm dry bed at the end of the day:). See sometimes I like sleeping inside! When I arrived, Michael said grab some dry clothes and escorted me straight to the shower while he made me some tea. Just what I needed. Then we shared stories about hiking the Himalaya! He's been up to the Everest Valley 10 times and knows it like the back if his hand. He has mountain pictures on every wall. Lots to share.

Here we are checking out Michael's favorite beach. It was out quite a ways down a very windy road and I made the mistake of sitting in the backseat. ( I thought we weren't going far.). Speed on top of motion sickness really gave my head a buzz. As soon as I spoke up, the situation was rectified...but I already was a bit woozy.










Michael and Carol, thank you for a fun and relaxing weekend. Loved meeting your friends too! Adds so much to the richness of my journey.

BagLady



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Waitangi Treaty House

May 13 - 15, 2013
East coast, Bay of Islands NZ

I've been working my way over and down the east coast of the Northland. Days are all alike now. Pedaling. Rolling hills. Bush and pasture. Grey water. Meeting lots of people wherever I stop...or if the stop me. Met this guy who pulled me over on the side of the road to show me a picture on his phone of the trike he built from plans online and old bike parts. Nice job, Roger. I especially like the aqua seat!




And, I went to the Waitangi Treaty House where the treaty between England and the Maori chiefs was signed in 1840 in the hope of bringing some peace and order to the islands for both sides. I did the full shebang: cultural experience and tour. Loved it!









Bag Lady

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Sunday, May 19, 2013

Moving slowly

May 19, 2013
Whangarei, NZ

Quick note to say all is okay. Just behind in posting. Been hanging with new friends all weekend and haven't caught up on posts. 3 weeks left. Gonna be a busy time. I'll try and get caught up tomorrow night:)


BagLady

More pictures are posted at:

https://picasaweb.google.com/104890875270597877610

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Monday, May 13, 2013

Some Days it's Nice to Do Nothing

May 12, 2013
Kerikeri, NZ

Got a tour of the "lifestyle" farm Steve and Michelle live on. Steve says they're called "lifestyle" cause when you move here hour lifestyle goes to hell. I've seen the term used quite a lot here. Lifestyle block is a gentleman's 5 acre farm. Lifestyle business is what you do to afford to live on the lifestyle block in rural NZ. Raise animals. Have a cafe. Farm goldfish...that was the best !

I got to see rabbits this morning. Michelle started raising them in December for food. She's got a buck and 2 does. And about 18 babies from 3 different litters...one just born 2 days ago...they looked like little rats, all pink with no hair. (No pics because my camera was way up the driveway on my bike.). The first litter was in last night's stew. I couldn't have eaten it. Really hard to do when you see their faces.

A couple hours pedal this morning and I got to this nice lively town of Kerikeri and its farmers market. Crusty bread. Micro greens. Tomato. Beans. Cuke. Yum! Guess what's for dinner!! SALAD!!!!

Since it is Mothers Day and the roads are crazy, decided to get a campsite and just hang out in the sunshine. Some days it's nice to do nothing. This is one of those days. It's lovely here by a beautiful creek. The road out tomorrow will kill me because it was down, down, down. Ugh that's tomorrow's problem. Today I read, rest, relax. Life is good!


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Saturday, May 11, 2013

Life on the Edge

May 10 & 11, 2013
Some field in Northland on way to Kerikeri, NZ

First, Happy Birthday, Dana!! She's my baby and she turned 29 today. She's already worried about turning 30 next year...the end of an era. How can my baby be that old??? Wasn't she just born yesterday? Where oh where does the time go?

Kindness again and again. Rain and cold...sun and hot. It can't decide what the weather should be. And when it rains, it pours! And gets cold...very cold. Yesterday I got drenched through. The rain came from behind, hit the back of my head, ran down my back, and flooded my seat. Brrr! Not fun sitting in the cold and wet. And the water was so heavy on the road that trucks drenched me as the went by. Different from last summer. This is autumn. It's cold out. In the 50's. Wet is harder to handle with cold. And I'm in a rural area with no place to take shelter. Just have to keep pedaling. Looked forward to hills because climbing warmed me up. Downhills were freezing. Umbrella just didn't help much because wind always seems to come with the rain.

But yesterday the sun did come back out and warmed me up and dried me off.

Stopped at a place that had cars all over the yard hillside. Car Clinic. Hans trades them and fixes them. Got a tent spot, shower, and breakfast!

Cold night. 2nd coldest of whole trip. Feet froze. Below 50*...the limit of my bag. Hmmm. But what a view this morning over the valley.



Tonight, after another rainy cold afternoon, I'm camped at a driveway end. Driveway was too steep. And again a shower and offer for dinner and a bed. I wasn't up to trying rabbit stew. They actually raised the rabbiting found out later. I probably should have tried it but I just couldn't. Since I love my tent, I'm sleeping in it even though its gonna be another cold night. Gotta layer up! Got extra gear nearby to put on as I chill.

Faces:
That's Joe from the marae I stayed at.


And this is Roger, a biker that invited me in for tea and has offered me a place to stay in Auckland.





BagLady


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Thursday, May 9, 2013

Days so Rich They're Like Dessert.

May 8 & 9, 2013
Awanui, NZ

Too much goodness. It's overwhelming me. And I can't take this shitty grin of happiness off my face. I have to tell it in the flow of the day because that works best for this senior memory of mine.

Awoke to rain after 12 hours of sleeping. Can't say I'm not well rested:). The rain let up and I got packed up heading south down this peninsula that Cape Reinga is at the top of. (Never end a sentence with a preposition is reverberating in my head!).

I know that Pukenui has a cafe with a veggie pizza the hostess if the hostel there (when I stayed there a couple of nights ago) mentioned was good. I'm headin' for PIZZA! When I walk in, who walks out of the kitchen? Steve. Erina's husband. The guy who gave Blaze a lift. He and Erina are up there checking out the cafe. How sweet to run in to them again! After eating most of a medium pizza - reminds me of hiker days - I continue south. And I gave a destination in mind. On my way north 4 days ago, I met Ian standing by the side of the road and got invited in to meet Alison, his wife, and have tea. I went. And when I left they invited me to come back on my way past when I would be heading south. I went:). I was looking forward to spending a bit more time with them, hearing their stories, and getting a major town chore done...laundry. (It had been 2 weeks:/. I done some stuff by hand, I'm not that grubby!). So we had a delightful evening and due to rain preventing me from setting up the tent, I slept indoors. Yes, I know. I never do that! Oh, and I have to mention the spa soak I had too! Fabulous



So after much rich and interesting conversation over breakfast, I managed to tear myself away and head on down the road...about 5 kms...and I turned off onto a gravel road to check out the Gumdiggers Park and Buried Kauri Forest. John, the owner



(who was adorable) inherited this land and discovered about 20 years ago it was full of holes in the bush. Gumdigger holes where the kauri gum was plentiful in the late 1800's due to the fact that there had been a kauri forest here 45,000 to 100,000 years ago and some unknown events toppled the trees time and again over the thousands of years. The swamp was rich with amber. And it was dug up from the muck by these guys that lived in huts covered with the fabric of the sacks the gum was shipped in. It went to England and was used for varnish.


John's created a tourist business here that was quaint and simply done. You see the huts, the holes, and kauri trees still in the ground preserved by the peat.

2 hours later, with an amber necklace John had made that I bought, I was headed south again. Now I'm having issues with the screws that hold in my cleats. I think I've mentioned this. I lost another one on the other shoe yesterday so I replaced it with a new one. It didn't hold. By this afternoon I only had 3 screws and 4 holes. My clear would lock on my pedal and not twist free. Arrghh. My plan was not to go all the way back to the town where I found the screws, but by the time I got to the turnoff I'd changed my mind. I had tried biking without being clipped I and it was exhausting to my leg. That wasn't going to work. I'll need to buy a bunch of those screws and hope that eventually I can get them to stay in. Just 3 more weeks. Please. So I went 20 kms out of my way tonight, got my screws, and got back on track.

Looking for a place to stay and hearing from a local that the District Council here frowns on freedom camping, I followed Maori advice and turned in to the first marae I spotted to see if I could camp. Sure. Showers too. Come for tea...which I forget means dinner. I'm in good hands tonight!

BagLady

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Tuesday, May 7, 2013

A Whole Different Day

May 7,2013
Rawara Beach DoC Campsite, NZ

A beautiful sunny day. After the storms of yesterday, it feels amazing. Still glad I saw Cape Reinga at the peak of its passion. The energy if it, the amazing-ness of it, and the fact that not one photo captures that makes me hold it near and dear.

Somewhere yesterday in the multiple times Blaze was hoisted on and off Nick's truck, I lost my temperamental bike computer. Oh well. Gonna be a lot of guessing this next month as to distances gone and distances to go. I've cycled about 3000 miles in NZ. The computer was good at keeping track (when it wasn't sitting at 0). Guess we'll both be ready for a rest when we get home. But before then, I've got another month here:)))). And lots of slow days to pedal and beaches to sit on...between raindrops.

But no rain this afternoon. Blue skies! Not a cloud! And I'm at an isolated campground on a stream with a quick walk to the beach. Alone. So why am I spending it chatting with you folks?


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Te Rerenga Wairua...oh my! Oh my!

May 6, 2013
Te Rerenga Wairua, NZ

Three months to the day after leaving Wellington, I cycled up the hill to Cape Renga. The Maori name is Te Rerenga Wairua. And what a memorable, incredibly incredible, crazy, blustery day it was!!!

I met Nick, the Dept of Conservation Ranger, first thing this morning...and our paths crossed all day long. I hate to think where I'd be sleeping tonight if he hadn't saved my ass. How about the toilets at the lighthouse in all probability.

After he stopped and told me I was not allowed to camp where I spent the night, but no worries, he pulled up next to me while I was reading the info boards about the reserve up here on the tip. That was about 5 kms in of the 21 I needed to cycle to the lighthouse at the very top of the North Island. My plan was to cycle up there and stay the night legally camped at a DoC campsight on the beach. Many people have mentioned how beautiful it is. Where Nick pulled up was the car park for some large sand dunes. How's the road down to the dunes? I ask. Any steep gravel hills? Yup. Wanta a lift? I'm going down there now. Sweet as!



Quite spectacular...yes!

Then, after eating my breakfast in the DoC maintenance barn because it was windy and rainy outside, I pedaled on. Nick offered to drive me out but stopped himself saying "you probably want to bike it, huh?" Yes I do!

Thank goodness he didn't tell me about the hills, so I could be surprised. There were a lot of them. And they were fairly steep. Every time I saw the next one from the top of the one I just climbed, I laughed. Of course! But the weather was my biggest challenge. The wind gusts were so strong I had to just sit still and hold the brakes with both hands not to he blown away. At one point, they were so strong tge blew me 100 meters backwards up the hill when I let off the brakes. Most of the time I was able to use my umbrella shelter trick. Until the last hill. Then it was blowing too hard to hold up the umbrella so I just pedaled and hot soaked. Luckily I had just talked with Nick, and since the campsite was down too steep a gravel road and the weather was blustery I accepted his offer of a lift somewhere south. But first, the lighthouse.

When I finally got up to the car park I was soaked to the bone. It was gusting (over 100 mph, I heard in the news...weather so bad they closed the Auckland airport) and raining sideways. Needless to say, barely a view. The water was so choppy...woo, what a storm! When Nick arrived, he gave me a lift down to the lighthouse and the point which is a bit of a walk.
This point is very sacred in Maori culture. They believe the spirits of the recently deceased travel up the island and leave off the point to their permanent home. You can also throw off any unwanted "stuff" while you're there. Nick and I did a little ceremony. The wind was whipping! The waves were crashing! It was an amazing moment!!! So dramatic! So moving!








And tonight I'm back at the campground across from which I stayed last night. I'm the only one here. Not even the owners are here. But I got a shower and a place to get inside if I want. But of course, I'm in my tent.

The day was so unexpected yet just perfect! I'll have to come back here when the weather's better so I can do some of the walks along the coast. But for now just having biked here under my own power over hill after hill and through major winds and rain feels like quite an accomplishment. I'll sleep well.

Now I turn south and check out the east coast, the Bay of Plenty, and the other treasures of the Northland on my way back to Auckland.

Thank you New Zealand for showing me another side of your amazing land.

BagLady


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Weather!

May 5, 2013
20 kms south of Cape Reinga (the northern most point of NZ)



The word for the day is weather. Actually that's the topic for yesterday and today. We've all heard the saying "if you don't like the weather, wait a minute...it'll change". Today that was literal! It would be dry, sunny, breezy then...wham! Major gusts of wind and hail-like rain would be pelting me painfully. I learned at the first sign of a sprinkle to get the umbrella opened. When the winds picked up and the skies opened, it was my only shelter. I'd stop pedaling, face the umbrella into the wind, pull up my legs and actually tuck behind it sheltering myself and wait until it passed.


It was always less than 5 minutes. The North Face HyVent raincoat I bought in Ireland last summer has saved me again. It's the best! True rain protection with breathability. Love it! The umbrella protects my face and legs while the raincoat protects my head and back.

So for the 30+ miles I biked today over rolling hills, I had sun, rain, sleet/hail, and winds! Sometimes all if it at once! But I've figured out how to cope with it:). This was probably the worst biking weather I've had because the winds were so strong. One local I've met thinks I'm amazing for biking this hilly and windy island. I'm having fun and loving the challenge!!!

Very remote up here. I'd had my sights on a backpackers I'd read was in this last "town" (more like dot on a map), but when I got here no one was around. The gas pumps are operable. The johns are open. But everything else is locked up. Season's over. Because the wind was so bad, I found an sheltered information board across the street. Thought I might be able to put my tent up there but it's not free standing so that wouldn't work. My bike is under there though for the night.

It's 6:30. It's dark. And the wind is gusting. I will say this tent does very well in wind, thank goodness. I hope tomorrow night when I'm camped up on the tip, the weather is more inviting. Today the temps were in 50s and 60s. It's been up on the 70s mostly before that. Night temps vary. I can tell at bedtime if its a warm night or a cold night. Tonight's a cold one. Will be below 50, I'm pretty sure.


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Saturday, May 4, 2013

My Marae

May 2-4, 2013
Herekino, Kaitaia, Pukenui, NZ

Yvonne, the Maori woman I met in Miranda at the campground (also met her daughter Zara) who hosted me with her daughter, Nicola, in Papakura, south of Auckland...well, she and her daughter hooked me up with her ex-husband, Steve, and his wife, Erina when I got up north. That's where I am now. Getting her wasn't easy. The road I biked down yesterday was gravel and steep...and I knew there was no way I could pedal up it. Sure hope this is the right road and I haven't passed the house. Stopped a car. Nope. Next mailbox on the left. Pull in. Go to gate. STEVE! ERINA! No, I'm not him. They live up that driveway. You've got to be kidding! I can't bike up that! It's washed out and way too steep. I'll help you push it. Ok. And up we went.

What a warm and wonderful welcome. Steve, Erina, and grandson, Harlem.

Stayed 2 nights spending a day touring the area, a peak at Shipwreck Bay and up 90 Mile Beach, meeting family, touring the family's valley, and spring cleaning the marae. I felt so honored being able to connect with this Maori family and meet so many aunts and cousins! And now that I've left my energy in this marae, I belong!







Then Friday headed out:



with Blaze getting a royal treatment because she couldn't get herself up the steep gravel road. But I wasn't going far. Just up to the next town where Erina was going to help her cousin, Ruth with a garage sale. Another night with the family (Grady, Ruth, Erina, and William:).




Now it's Saturday, May 4th and I cycled out after the rain eased up. Met Ian mowing by the side if the road and he invited me home for tea and to meet the family. They moved up here in the Far North from the Bay of Plenty and have found it more temperate not even needing heat. They're busy growing edibles of all kinds! NZ's amazing for growing fruit trees and all kinds of veggies year round.

The rain really let loose later today and I opted for a backpackers for tonight. Sometimes ya just need to be cozy.

Saw this kauri museum with a 45,000 yr old tree dug from being buried and finished off with a staircase up the inside!




Cape Reinga in 2 days! (If the weather doesn't slow me up...)

BagLady

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