Two More Weeks on Colorado

September 12, 2016
An Overlook on the Colorado River

Wind...my nemesis...it's coming at me in all directions tonight as I'm hunkered down behind a sagebrush with Spacey tied to Blaze. There was one moment when I was holding my pan on the stove with one hand and holding up the tent with the other. But I'm getting ahead of myself. A lot has happened since I arrived in Steamboat and most of it has been off the bike.

Karen and Charley (remember I met Karen out riding with her local group) opened their home and their hearts to me. I came for 2 nights and stayed for 6. We were having fun! And I decided to avoid the roads over Labor Day weekend. Besides, there were "happenings" I didn't want to miss. We went to Happy Hour with the Over the Hill Gang. Then the next night we all went up the gondola for sunset on the mountain. Karen took me paddle boarding for my first time.

I kept wanting to sit down. "Why stand if you can sit?", say I. Valley Girl, the dog wasn't' too happy about things but as long as we stayed away from the shore she'd stay on the board.  We  were out on a lake north of Steamboat which gave me a chance to see an area I wouldn't normally have gotten to see.

We joined Karen's friends for Happy Hours, airshow, sunset from Thunderhead, etc.  Wonderfully active seniors in Steamboat, that's for sure!!!  They hike and bike and ski!  My kind of folks:)

 Friends on the gondola ride up the mountain to see the sunset.

 Me on hte same gondola with Steamboat boat behind me.

 All my new friends in Steamboat up at Thunderhead for the sunset below

And we cooked together. I love sharing a kitchen and meal ideas with another woman and Karen and I were kindred spirits in the kitchen. (Poor Charley didn't appreciate our vegan efforts...too far out of his comfort zone...but kudos for trying, Charley.  You didn't fall for our chocolate pudding made from avocado, cocoa, and honey...yum!)

 Charley and Karen eating steamed mussels that Karen prepared...yum!

One of our vegan dishes for dinner...another yum!

Another day I joined Karen and her lady friends for a 6 mile hike up on the mountain. We rode the gondola up then hiked up around the top. It was so beautiful with the fall colors beginning to come out. This mountain is huge with trails and ski runs in all directions. What fun it would be to ski here.

 All the ladies in our hiking group.

 Karen checking the map:)  Don't want to get lost up there!

 Fall is a-coming!  Aren't the colors amazing?!?!?

 Thank you both so much for sharing your home and your friends with me. I'll be back some day...maybe to try some skiing.

 So sad to say goodbye...that's always hard for me...your guys were the best!

But alas the day came when I had to pedal away. That's always hard for me because I connect and then have to move on. It never gets easier. There's always a little hole left in my heart for the new friends I've made. But Colorado was pulling my heart strings too.

From Steamboat Springs my plan was to start pedaling south to stay ahead of winter. I went my usual 25 miles and was having a little bit of a challenge finding a camping spot for the night. Lots of fencing and slanted shoulders. None of the usual nooks or crannies, so I kept going. When April toured with me she was always a stickler for a pleasant camp spot so done nights I ask myself if April would approve. I'm more fearful of not finding anything better not knowing what's down the road. This evening I kept going and got to a church that looked promising. I pulled in the driveway and hopped off. I noticed there was another driveway off the same road entrance so I talked myself into going up to the house and asking permission. Not my usual modus operandi. I walked up the driveway to a house that doesn't really have an approachable front door. I'm shouting "Knock! Knock! Anyone home?". Dogs start barking and running up to me. Ya never know with dogs. Will they bite? I'm on their property and they're doing their job. Out comes Eileen. Do you think I could camp at the church for the night? Don't know. Why don't you camp in our yard? OK. I've gotta run to a class but my husband will be home in a few minutes to help you find a spot.

A place to camp AND a shower! Whoopee! In the morning after I'm all packed up, Eileen asked if I want to stay and play. She's going for a massage in the afternoon. Maybe I could too. Yes! And I didn't leave for 5 nights. We had so much fun!

 We walked the hay fields (this is at sunset),

 played on the hay bales with the dogs,

road the tractor while Steve raked.

We also did a walking class in town that Eileen teaches and toured their family's ranch on a quad bike. Just like summer camp!

 Sleeping in the meadow after there by quad bike

 An old cabin Steve's brother built.

 Riding on the quad bike with the dogs in back

 Gate made from iron wagon wheel at the Nonia's house

 Look what Eileen picked up to add to her treasure collection

 Girls playing in the hay

 Sunset over the garden

 Sitting around the campfire with friends

 Blaze and Spacey next to the cabin

 Part of the ranch

 Steve's brother's hand built cabin

 Following one of the dogs down to the original homestead

I also got to meet some of Steve's family including Noni, the matriarch. At 87, she's an amazing woman who still cooks for the brood, and buzzes around on the ranch on her own quad bike! Their are several of her children and their families scattered about the property in their own houses. It's land the grandfather from Italy acquired and has been handed down. Cattle and hay. As far as the eye can see.

When I ran out of reasons to stay any longer, I pulled myself away...again.

I procrastinate when it comes to writing this blog, like it's homework that has to get done. I'm afraid I won't describe an experience full enough, as deeply as it meant to me, especially when it's about time I've spent with new friends. I just want all the people I've touched over the years to know how important each of you has been in my life...how important and meaningful the time I spent with each of you has meant to me... it's deeper than words can ever say. This journey is far more about the people I meet than any gorgeous view. 

You are the true beauty in this world.

Livin' the dream,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Back At It

August 30, 2016
Routt National Forest
Steamboat Springs, Colorado, USA

Lying here, hidden in the forest (because it's illegal to camp in undesignated spots), looking up at the Ponderosa and Lodgepole pines (I can't tell which is which), I'm home. Now if my home were just a bit further from the road so all I heard were the sounds of the wilderness, I'd be ever so much happier, if that's possible :). Colorado is wonderful and yucky at the same time. The wonderful is the wildness, the mountains, the rivers. The yucky is all the people that have forced strict regulations because folks don't know how to be in the wild and not harm her. This is a very touristy state...I didn't realize that. With so many people come too many rules. Don't do this. Don't do that. I'd rather be cycling someplace less popular because wildness beauty is everywhere. I deliberately avoided Rocky Mountain National Park because I thought there'd be many more people.

And many months off the bike has left me so out of shape :/. What was I thinking when I decided to cycle into these mountains? Wonder Woman I'm not.

I left Denver a couple of weeks ago and headed north. I knew some people in Fort Collins that I had met in New Zealand during my first tour there 4 years ago. We met as I cycled into Franz Joseph and stayed a few days at the same hostel, waiting out a west coast storm. Kathleen and I stayed in touch and I contacted her when I realized I'd be coming her way. Actually she and Adrian were going to be out of town when I was to arrive but she welcomed me to come stay anyways and they'd be back in a few days. Worked out perfectly! I had a few days to familiarize myself with her kitchen and made myself right at home. These guys are kindred spirits loving biking and the woods, kayak trips, and skiing. Adrian built a cabin up in the mountains many years ago and we got to spend a might there with another visiting friends from Park City, Utah. What a sweet spot except for the rutted and rugged dirt road the last 3 miles. Ah! Now that's wilderness!! Not a sound!

But alas, I stretched my stay as long as I could and finally 10 days later I pedaled away to attack these mountains. (Guess what Kathleen and Adrian were doing? Guiding a llama-packing trip up in the mountains. Yup. Kindred spirits! Adrian's got me thinking about doing a llama-packing trip of the Colorado Trail perhaps next summer. Why llamas you ask? So I can carry healthier food:). And it would be such fun. Anyone want to join me and share a llama?)

So in talking about a route with Adrian who knows these mountains, I opted to take a quieter route up by Red Feather Lakes Village and then a dirt road over Deadman's Pass. Looked so doable on the map! When I got to that road on my 3rd day, I was climbing so so slowly...less than 2 mph. Grind. Grind. I stopped for a late breakfast but felt nauseous and was dry heaving. I just didn't feel good. So I set up my tent and went right to sleep. It rained and I dozed all afternoon. Good thing I set up when I did. But I always second guess myself. I should have gone on. I wimped out. What a wuss. But I also had a signal up there and was able to explore another route. I wasn't sure how long this route would take me and if I had enough food for as slow as I was pedaling. When I have so little energy anyways, running out of food is a big worry for me. And yet I probably had enough for a week! But I saw another way by backtracking that would put me on paved roads, and they're usually graded less steeply. So the next day I went back to Red Feather, my favorite little town so far. Wow! I couldn't believe how steep that climb had been the day before! No wonder I was bonked! That explains a lot! This day was downhill. Downhill to Red Feather. Then downhill to Route 14. Down and down and down. And when I got to Rte 14, a sign said Ft Collins 41 miles. 4 days and I was only 41 miles from where I started! But oh the sights I'd seen:). And it was 8000 ft there...so I must have been near 10,000 ft where I camped and wheezed.

So for the last few days I've come over Cameron Pass of the Medicine Bow Mountains at 10,247 ft and across a high Plains called the Arapaho National Wildlife Refuge. Today I crossed Rabbit Ears Pass and am camped at the west summit. I forgot to get some water today although I didn't see a lot of options. Tonight when I set up camp, I had 1 liter for drinking and bathing and for tomorrow too until town. So I decided to go for a walk and see if I could find some. And I did!! I can drink it up tonight!

Into Steamboat Springs tomorrow. I met this cycling group today and one of the women offered to host me for two nights. How sweet is that?!?



Adrian (sorry for the chop), Kathleen, and friends on a mountain bike ride in Fort Collins



Healthy food packing. Yes, I still do tuna and eggs.


Colorado mountains!



Alexa and Susie, 2 women I met in The Forks


Found my tiny house!



Deadman Road...you can't tell how steep.


Colorado mountains!



Main St, Red Feather Lakes Village



Happy girl!


Guess who owns the road?



Dispersed camping spot.



So beautiful



Camped at an overlook. People came by but ignored me.


Thus climb took awhile



Great evening light.


And another pass. Whew!


Livin' the dream,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Last Week in Tasmania

May 14, 2016

I have to apologize for dropping the ball on my blog. When I left Tassie the end of February, I flew to Sydney to visit friends before exiting Australia all together. Then I flew to San Diego where I spent a month with my daughter catching up. Then to fill some time I pedaled from San Diego to Albuquerque which I'll post a blog about shortly. I'm currently back in San Diego house sitting for a couple of weeks for my daughter and her hubby while their off touring Vietnam. (One day on the phone with her from Australia, before I had my plans firmed up, she told me they were going to Vietnam. " Great! I'll meet you there!" Silence. "Mom....we travel in different ways." Gotta love her!!!)

So here's the update without pictures becaus, of course, business as usual, they wouldn't upload. Gotta love technology! But only when it works...which is about 50% of the time. I'll post pics afterwards if this darn thing uploads.

February 20, 2016

The Highlands, Central Plateau, Tasmania

This is a countdown ride. I fly out from Launceston airport on the 24th but I have to get there first. I couldn't find anyone to host me in Launceston. Three options all failed so I decided to just ride directly to the airport picking up a box on the way. Sure hope this works! My plan is to arrive the evening before and camp out at the airport. It's a rural area so that should work. But I'll be a bit shower-less with in unlaundered clothes. I hope I don't stink too badly.

But between here and there is a big hill. And I climb it today:). My legs haven't been cooperating lately. Yesterday was a bit of a steady climb and I had leg aches and pains all afternoon. Muscle fatigue. Couldn't find my rhythm?

The first night out of Hobart was memorable. I found a park next to a church and cemetery with a picnic table...always nice. Yes the grass seemed a bit green but I couldn't find any sprinkler heads. I thought maybe they use a manual sprinkler system. So I set up my tent. Sleeping every so nicely I was awakened at 12:30 by a torrential downpour that stopped as suddenly as it started. Silence. Looked out. Starry night. Hmmm? That was odd. And I'm all wet: wet bag, wet clothes, wet iPhone. Yuck. And again! Oh no! SPRINKLERS! No sound. No rhythm. Just a deluge of water. Then it stops. Quick. Gotta move. And now! Just pull the tent with everything in it. But where? Into the parking lot. Oh I hope this doesn't damage the bottom. Stop thinking and MOVE! Dang. I'm pulling and the sprinkler soaked my thermals! Now I'm really drenched. Over there next to those shrubs looks dry. Hope it stays that way. Now to try and mop things dry. The wet bedding is the worst. Find something dry to put on. T shirt and capris. Towel iff my sleep sac, my air may, my bag, and my phone. Now try to get back to sleep. I can't. I'm shivering. The damp everything is seeping in. Add your down jacket and a hat. Legs and feet are cold. Socks. Now throw your fleece over your legs. That's better.


I can't believe I got suckered in by green grass again. This happened on my first tour on Blaze in Oregon. Thought I learned then. Never again green grass!

The following evening I saw a family at their gate and pulled up to ask them about solace to camp. "Were you at the church last night?"

" Yes, and I got drenched by the sprinklers!"

"Camp on our property."

" Thanks!"

"You can sleep inside if you wish. We have an extra bed."

"No thanks. I'm happiest in my tent. But I appreciate the offer."

"A shower then?"

"Yes! That would be fabulous!"

And that's how I met Steve and Sarah and their boys Max and Harry (pronounced "Howie"...I kept getting corrected. Oh accents. I love the Aussie one!)

The boys got to ride Blaze and helped me pitch Spacey. Full of questions! They were 6 and almost 8. I love these interactions and connections. So special at the end of a lonely day riding. Thank you, Steve, Sarah, Harry, and Max for a special evening!


Off again in the morning. Up and up. To Bothwell, a "one horse" town. But they had a grocery store. And I needed one. There won't be one for 3 days and I hadn't planned ahead.

Coming down into town cold winds brought in quite chilly air. I layered a coat, beanie, buff, and socks on. Wish I could have gotten my gloves but they were buried deep. This is the coldest I've been in over a year! Summer in Tassie is colder than winter in the Outback:))

Stopped for a pie at a cafe and met Annie.

She was a rip! She had nothing good to say about America although she'd never been. But she slowly softened. Said her husband used to say "The best and the worst comes out of America." Well said, I agree. By the time I left she told me I was a good ambassador for America. She changed her mind a bit. But Donald Trump has her worried. He's getting all the press over here and it's scaring people that he might be elected. I'm sure the rest of the world is feeling the same way. Are we that f**ked up that we don't realize the impact even this election process is having on our reputation around the world? We're looking like flaming idiots. Perhaps we are...

Shoulda packed while the sun was out. It goes under and get COLD! I'm in my fleece and down jacket. Brrr!! Luckily no rain/snow in the forecast.

I write the above this morning. Today's worry was water. I passed a farm early in the day and opted to wait to get water. Then I cycled up into no man's land and began to fret that I wouldn't find another water source today. Creeks are dry. No farm houses. Woods only. Tried waving an empty water bladder at every car and caravan. Everyone waved back:/. Yikes. This could be bad. Sipping lightly on the liter I have left. Don't know how long it may have to last. Gets pretty scary, that's all I can say. I'm sure it will work out ok, I tell myself...but I'm not. I'm worried. Not panicking. Not yet. Later in the day I would be. Came to an old homestead that had been donated to Parks and Wildlife for a Reserve. Is there a tank? Yes. Is there an outside tap? Yes. Is there water. YES!! I'm saved!!!!

February 23, 2016

Launceston Airport

Haven't had the most romantic camping spots these last few days but cycling through the mountains was delightful, as usual. Four nights ago I camped next to a large hydro electric water pipe that pulls water out of Lake Arthur and pumps it up to the Great Lake where they then run it downhill to create electricity. They do that a lot in Australia. Other than this massive silver pipe running through my backyard the spot was delightful. I passed up going all the way down to the lake to a campground with hot showers. On hind sight I probably could have used that shower. I'm gonna be pretty grungy getting on that plane tomorrow. I wash the surface dirt off but...but!

The next night I was down out of the mountains onto the agriculture plains and nothing but fenced farmland. The sun was beating me up so I took the first spot that provided some shade: row of trees along a fence line at the end where I could get up close to the fence and a few more feet off the road. The roads all quiet down at night so sleeping isn't a problem.

From there I came into a beautiful village of Longford with its old English styled brick homes with big chimneys and stately gardens. There I ended up next to the dog park under the No Camping picture sign. Give me a break. If dogs can play over there, I can camp over here!
A bit noisy as I was in a V between 2 roads and across the street from a brick factory that went all night. I had met this couple from Queensland in an earlier town at the bakery and we met up again later today at the village green. Shared some carrot cake for afternoon tea and stories of traveling. People think I must be lonely traveling alone. Thus is not the case. I do have days that go by where I don't talk to anyone but that's pretty rare. Downside is it's always me telling my story...over...and over...and over. Getting pretty old. Gals and guys alike tell me they couldn't do what I do...too afraid. Isn't that interesting?

Today was a short travel day but I needed to fill my time somehow. I just had to cycle 7 kms, find a box flattened, figure out how to attach it, then cycle 7 more kms to the airport and find some in to store it until tomorrow because it's expected to be raining in the morning and I sure don't want my fine new luggage to get wet!

I decided to find a cafe for brekkie and hang out there reading to pass some time. Found a bakery, ordered my eggs and latte and sat outside. First there was Bob, a local information dude who shared stories of the motorway that used to circle thus town then he brought out pictures to show me what it looked like. While he was there some senior men on bikes stopped for coffee and joined the table. Turns out there's a cycling track in town and these guys were down there doing laps. A bit later I look up and see my friends from yesterday back in town so I invited them to join us. Lonely?!? I was there 3 hours having a gay old time! And now when I return to see the northern half of this country I have friends in Rockhampton to stay with. Yup. That's how it happens. Gotta love it!

So eventually we all went our separate ways and I pedaled to Perth, the village nearest the airport where I hoped to find a box at the grocery store. Oops. No luck. Nothing. All smashed they said. Ok. Hope I don't have to cycle back to Longford. That would suck. Go to the bottle shop (aka liquor store). Usually their boxes are too small. And they were. But he said he had some smashed out in the orange bin. I go check it out. And voilà! Exactly what I needed! I'm still in awe when things go right. And they usually do. But it could just have easily bombed. And then I would be trying to find someone to take me crack to Longford to get a box. And that doesn't always work. But all was good. No just to figure out how to attach thus monster on the back son the wind doesn't affect it. Flat is good. And I have rope. I had already figured out that puncturing small holes and feeding the rope through to tie it to the bike frame would probably be best. And it was! So easy. Even in the wind and on a downhill it was solid.
Virgin Australia desk said they could store it in the office for me. Good thinking, they said:). See ya in the morning. Now to find a camp spot. Like most airports this area is quite industrial. But across the street I found a large vacant field and set up there. No one pays me any attention. Like I'm invisible. Just the way I like it.
And it is raining. A bit fearful that the water on my tent will put the weight over. Don't think it will be dry by morning. Hope they'll be understanding:/

Not quiet and not dark. Airport lights and traffic. The cars should stop but the lights won't go out. Oh well. Off to Sydney tomorrow to see dear friends Carina and Gaby again. I met Carina on the Camino nearly 2 years ago. Stayed with them in Sydney when I passed through last year. Met them again later in Yamba. I will be great to reconnect.

Then Sunday I fly to San Diego where my older daughter and her husband live. A sweet treat is my younger daughter is visiting her sister that weekend so I get to see them both as soon as I land!! Happy Momma!!!!!!!!! I miss them both so much!

Don't ask me what my plans are stateside. I'm lucky to have made these plans. Going to Denver where younger daughter lives. Then on to Rochester where I used to live. That's all I know for sure.



Livin' the dream!

BagLady

Frenchman's Cap Hike

February 9, 2016. Day 1
Lake Vera Hut, Tasmania




Woke up before 6 am with the decision to take a bus instead of trying to hitch. It just seemed like it was an added complication with a 6 hour hike at the end. I'd have had to get multiple rides most likely. And that takes time.





Good decision because it was a tough 7 hour hike. It's always hard to jump from biking to hiking. My upper body does nothing all day and then I ask it to work extra hard. Even though my pack is under 10 kilos, my body is not used to carrying weight...and it rebels!


I have to say the bus ride out through country that looks like our west only made me wish I'd had the time to bike it. I'll have to come back to do it. And leaving the large rolling hills, all brown from drought, and entering the forested land was a treat. The green is such a welcome sight. The trees are big and old. When we got to Lake St Clair Lodge for the bus transfer I felt like I was in an Adirondack lodge. Lovely wooded area. Like a mountain retreat. The next bus driver was a maniac! Crossing into the other lane while trying to answer his cell phone...then again trying to read it. He finally pulled off to check it. Then he was barreling around tight curves. I thought the bus was going to tip over. I was riding shotgun to calm my motion sickness. But my fear was worse. I was holding on with both hands and closing my eyes. I was petrified. I'm sure not riding in a car or bus too often played a factor. But he was hauling ass! I want to remember to ask some of the other hiker's that were on the bus what they thought. Maybe it was just me:/




That's Frenchman's Cap in the distance



Building a raised trail bed because usually it's terribly muddy up here, but now there's a drought.



Another method of trail building in muddy areas



And there were lots of boardwalks too



It was so beautiful up here. Granite rocky peaks in the distance. The trail is so well built its practically handicap accessible. Raised trail rd with deep trenches on both sides for good drainage. Lots of boardwalks. We're in a drought now, but usually it's quite wet and muddy on this trail. I went through some open plains and then deep rainforest. All different types of terrain.


I don't have a tent because I planned on using the huts. Wish I'd realized it was warmer than the weather report said. I tried to cowboy camp on the helipad but the dew was already too much. So I'm inside. Top bunk. Sleeping on top of my bag. It's hot up here. Don't think it will be a good night's sleep. And the snoring had begun:/. Where did I pack those earplugs? Keep smiling, BagLady!




Nice hut, huh?!?!

Day 2

Quiet night insidethe hut...except for my very noisy pad. There are very thin mattresses in the bunks so I put my mat on top. It was so loud every time I moved, it woke ME up! I finally just laid on the mattress, but oh my hips. Screw it! Back to my noisy air mattress. Sorry folks!




Notched logs were frequently used to get up in areas. Easy to climb up, but awkward to step down toed in.



And old wooden steps.



Love this shot of birds I was able to catch in focus:). No, I don't know what they are.



I did this hike with a 25 liter pack...Aussies were quite impressed! (Now if I could just get my gear on my bike that low:))



Crossing the Franklin River.

Today's walk was marvelous!! Up! Up! Up! The Mahoosic Arm on steroids!! The Through gorgeous, wet rain forests up onto granite ridges. Overlooking remote mountain lakes. Views that took my breath away. Cloudy today, which was much easier than yesterday's heat, for sure. And a much more rugged route. Hats off to the crew that put in this route. The most amazing craved rock and log steps! Just beautifully done!! Lots of very hard work. The trail is over 100 years old having been first laid out in 1910. Pretty impressive, huh! A philanthropist and Aussie business mogel, Dick Smith, finding his beloved trail falling apart in 2008 negotiated with the government to fund $100,000 annually for 5 years if they put in $50,000. Some of the trail work I saw yesterday was the result of this investment. Today there were many broken log bridges that I had to walk the side rails not to fall in. I'm sure they'll be next.

An added element to today's walk was my footwear. The bottoms of my feet were tender from my Chaco sandals so I opted to were my very comfy Croc sandals. They are a bit of a challenge as they tend to slide around quite a bit. Even more so when they are wet. So I had to watch where every step was placed. That sure slowed my down. Back to my Chacos and socks for tomorrow's climb. They grab my foot so much better!



When the clouds lifted I could look out over this steep wilderness with rolling green mountains in all directions. I hope my photos will do it justice.








I didn't summit Frenchman's Cap today because the clouds never lifted. Hopeful tomorrow's weather will be better. We actually got rain later today that was not in the forecast. I have enough food to stay here a few days if necessary to waIt for good weather. And with a lake at the base of the granite rock, I hope to get a swim in if it warms up.

Tonight it's me and 6 Aussie men in the hut. How lucky am I?!?! I've learned about quite a few good hikes in Tassie as well as the rest of Australia. Lots of hiking to do here yet!



I brought a pretty boring and repetitive food supply having only a quick visit to the grocery store and wanting not to carry much bulk or weight in my small pack that I'm using. Ramen and soup every night. Peanut butter and honey wraps for lunch. Muesli raw for breakfast. And everyone else with huge packs are eating gourmet! Suffer, BagLady!

Tomorrow, Summit Day!!

Day 3






The sun is shining on that rocky granite monster outside my hut window. Up and out early. No breakfast because this is a fasting day. It starts by winding through dense forest with a narrow path cut into the rock going up. Up and up. Quite quickly it breaks out into the open and I'm in a cirque with Lake Tahune at the base. Look! There's a naked guy toweling off after his morning swim.



He doesn't see me up here. And I see the hut too. Rocks. Lots of rocks. Back in my Chacos for this walk. My pack is light with only water and raincoat and camera. Lots of switchbacks. The trail marked only by cairns. Oh my! The view as I get higher us stunning.











I'm running low on words to describe the ethereal feelings im having see such breathtaking wilderness. Green mountains as far as the eye can see. It's getting steeper. Climbing up rock faces using my fingers to grip in crevices. Oh look. That wasn't the trail to this cairn because the trail comes in from the right. Hmmm. More rocks. Using rock climbing tricks to get up these rock faces. This is quite the climb! Oh no! Fog is rolling in. My view is quickly dissipating. After 2 hours, I finally reach the cap only to have no view in any direction:( I've got time. I'll wait.




4 guys come up. Take the requisite pics. Want a moon shot. I'll take it! 4 gorgeous bare butts!! They leave. I wait. A gay couple, Neal and Cliff arrive. I love these guys. The odd couple and quite experienced hikers. Love their stories. I wait. The fog lifts a bit in one direction and I get a glimpse. Such a flirt! Over 2 hours I spend up there and eventually I get a peak at each side. I'm thinking I'll head down and back to Lake Vera hut so I'd getter get going. And sure enough, on the way down it clears. I have some great views then. Oh well. That's my Frenchman's Cap experience. Mystical. "Mist"ical.










When I arrive back to Lake Tahune hut, it's a beautiful day. It's also 1:30. Do I want to stay here, swim, enjoy the day or hike 4-5 hours back to Lake Vera hut? Easy decision. I'll stay. I'm in no rush. So I skinny dipped in the lake and sunbathed on the beach with Frenchman's Cap peaking down at me.


Ramen noodles and soup for dinner. It's getting old. And early to bed cuz there's not much to do after dark up here. Tonight there's 4 guys and me in the hut.

Day 4



Heading back to Lake Vera hut today. I thought this was beautiful fog in the valley until someone told me it was smoke from forest fires quite a distance away.

This should be mostly downhill. And it was. Down and down and down. Now I know why I was so tired getting up this the other day. But I have all day and the rainforest us so cozy. I'm taking my time. Lunch by one small waterfall. Sat and painted by another.






"The woods are cozy, dark, and deep, but I have promises to keep..." - Robert Frost


Another American guy is here tonight and we thought we had the hut to ourselves until 3 kids arrived at 8:30 pm. So now we're five in the hut. Some going in. Others going out.


I'm hoping Steve, the American will give me a ride up to Derwent Bridge where either I can get a hitch back to Hobart tomorrow or there'll be a place to stay until Sunday's bus. These are "no horse" towns up here:). We'll see what tomorrow brings.

Day 5

Heading out today and hoping the dry weather holds. Rain would not be fun. The plan is for me to head out early because I suspect Steve hikes faster and I'd rather wait for him than the other way around. On my way out at about 8 am I met a guy hiking in for a day hike up to the Cap...really? 30 miles...tough climb...oh to be young and fit! Can't imagine the wear on your feet.

I took 5 hours to get to the parking lot and decided to try and hitch while I waited for Steve. Ya never know when that best ever hitch going exactly where you want to go will arrive. This was my longest hitch ever. 120 miles! The first car to stop were tourists that were headed to Hobart, but stopping along the way. Thanks for stopping, I'll pass and see if something better comes along. A couple more cars and busses stop but they're just going where Steve was taking me only 18 miles up the road. Pass. Then I began to think maybe I shouldn't be passing up all these rides. And then John stops. He'd hesitated at first. When I can tell a car isn't going to stop I always give them a friendly wave just the same...and sometimes they do stop...and he did. In his 6 cyl BMW...company car! He had to drive across the island and back take his abalone divers back to their cars. I treat my men well! So 6 hour round trip Saturday drive. "I'm going to be driving fast so I don't need a scared passenger in this car. I know this road well and all the good passing spots!" So I said "Lets go!" What a comfy car and smooth ride. Even though the road was quite windy, as mountain roads are, I was fine. Two hours later I was back in Hobart! Sweet!!!

So glad I got to experience a bit of the Tasmanian wilderness!


Livin' the dream!

BagLady