What a Day!

September 27, 2014
In the woods near Lyon, France



Breakfast!

I decided to go the longer, quieter route today and what a difference it made. I was pedaling up the road and saw a woman watching me out the window, so I did my usual wave. I'm a friendly gal:). By the time I was in front of the house she, her husband, and daughter were by the gate to see me go by. So I stopped to chat. And got invited in to lunch. I hesitated because I have this date with Lyon for repairs, but decided quickly that I had time. So we rolled Blaze into the courtyard. I spent a delightful couple of hours with John Luc, Marie Christine (I think), Sandra, and Luc...their kids.


You know I love to talk but my lips move faster than my mind and I jumble all the tenses up. But they seem to understand. We had lettuce and vegetables from a garden, her father's I think. And roasted duck, which I've never had before but was delicious. And green beans from a garden. Dessert was fromage blanc, white cheese, which is freshly made cheese not yet aged or hardened. It was delicious! I also got some help on a route into Lyon which Luc printed out for me. So off I went papers in hand, worried that he was sending into the mountains and the roads would be steep. I was right! They were! Thanks Luc:). Some were so steep that I would set my eyes on a point 50 ft ahead and push to get there before I could stop. Up and up these quiet, beautiful single lane paved roads. Up into farmland and views.



And then a big road and a several mile downhill to end the day! Yippee!

Found a woods with tables and a bathroom for the night. And as this family was leaving they were admiring Blaze so I went over to talk. Everyone wanted a ride and of course I said Yes. The kids too! Such fun. They even invited me to come and stay at their house for the night, but alas it was getting late and I was mentally and physically done for the day...but the offer warmed my heart, and I told them. Didn't get names. Oops! But they're going to make a BagLady banner tomorrow for me to see if I ride by:)). I hope I do. This is when I don't like deadlines. Have to push on to Lyon.



Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Fun Kids!

September 26, 2014
St Symphorien de Lay, France



Been finding some great camping spots: outside the walls of a medieval town last night and in a town park with bathrooms (water, power, cold showers) tonight. Both times led here by locals. It pays to talk to people.

I got some "fromage de chèvre" (goat cheese) the other day and made my version of Mac and cheese last night: macaroni, peppers, onions, tomatoes, and goat cheese...yum!



Today while I was hanging out in a small town eating flan from the patisserie for breakfast a group of people stopped to chat. Oh, my French is so broken but I do try and tell what I'm doing. It was 2 social workers with kids from a special school in that town. Mostly early teens. They were such fun! The kids were shy but I was able to get a couple of them to try and ride Blaze. Oh the smiles! And they all had a bit of English that they spoke to me. We shook hands and shared names (but you know my memory:))...Marion was one of the adults. I have a picture I'll share if they're able to get the parents permission. But at least I have that photo for my memories even if I can't post it. That's why I travel!! To see those smiles and the joy I'm able to bring for just a moment. Thank you for stopping to chat with me...it made my day!!!!!


Then on to the laundromat! Oh happy day! Found it okay. And a smartly dressed woman was there doing some washing and showed me how it worked. But she misunderstood the soap bins and I only had soap in the prewash (I found out later reading the wall sign). And then I put my 2 sleeping bags (a 50* and a 30*...gotta control my temps) in their own dryer. I had scrubbed my Chaco hiking sandals to use as tennis balls. Too bad I didn't worry enough about making sure they were thoroughly dry. They aren't. So here I lay tonight in two damp down bags hoping my body heat helps finish the job. I tried to use the sun this afternoon, but no luck. But at least the bites seem to have eased up.

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Pictures

I've learned that portrait photos are causing the upload problem. I have to resize them. Let's see if I can upload some.















Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Chantelle and Christian

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Life's Getting Crazy

September 24, 2014
Lapalisse, France

This has been one crazy week and it's wearing me out. Maybe I'm too old to be touring alone. It's terribly stressful at times. But, as always, the kindness of strangers pulls me through.

Now let's see if I can remember all that's happened. You know about the tire then the broken frame.

Sunday came and I wasn't ready with food shopping so I scraped the bottom of the pannier. The next day around midday I got to a village and parked in front of a small grocery store. I needed to write my bike shop because Blaze is running like a crab. Her boom is tilted. When I looked up, it was CLOSED! For 2.5 hours! I felt at the breaking point and just wanted to cry. This life is not as easy as it sounds. There's so many unknowns every day. I cycled through town and found a patisserie and got a bread and a flan. Then I looked and my solar panel was missing! Oh no! It must have dropped off when I left the grocery store. I'm lost without it. LOST! POWERLESS! I race back looking along the pavement. It's not there. Oh no! This can't be happening. Check everywhere! ...there it is, tucked away...ahhhh. You should try living with me!! This brain is frightening and so forgetful these days. That doesn't help.

So on I go. Down the sweetest back country roads. Learning more about letting go. I don't itch that bad. I have a second warmer bag to use. I have enough food for the night. PB & J is always there. I'm okay. And I'm in France! And it's a beautiful day. Getting near camping time. Time to find some water. I look for people outside. Or listen. Look. There's a couple. Of course, they're staring at me:). J'ai besoin de l'eau. My standard phrase. It's a farm family. Mom, dad, and daughter. Yes. Of course. Then I ask if perhaps they have a place I could camp. And I end up in the garden:). Wonderful people. Got to watch mom milk 35 head of cows. I'll never take dairy for granted again. It took 1.5 hours to put them in their stantion ( 8 at a time), scrub teats, apply milking machine, treat teats after, and release them...then sterilize equipment while next 8 ladies load. Quite an operation and it's done twice a day, EVERY day. Whew!

They had gardens and chickens, turkeys, geese, a pig and "les enfants" (calves). All ages. They're separated from mom right away. A couple were a week old. It's a business...but Edith knew the name of every cow! Invited in for dinner too, so that solved my food problem. Amazing family. Such fun! And I'm so grateful. See you on Facebook, Monica!




Last night it was getting quite late and I wasn't finding a spot. I heard a woman trying to quiet her dog do I turned around and went back. I'd seen a grassy spot a couple of houses away and was hoping she'd know if I could use it. She and her husband offered they're yard. Yea! And in the morning coffee and conversation....and red peach jam and apples for the road. Thank you Chantelle and Christian.

Tonight a campground, wifi, power, and a shower. Living it up!! Both families offered a room indoors but I do prefer my tent!

Oh and another challenge is finding my way. I like Google Maps to give me a route. Much easier. But it doesn't know that I want paved roads so it gives me this



Or this




Or worse yet, this




I ended up carrying her across the deep water and squishy sand. Then 3 trips to get all my gear across! And those back roads are so much slower, but sure beat 20 kms on a road with no shoulder and big trucks going both ways like I did today. Glad to be here. Now I'm going to enjoy it. Shower!!



Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Deleted photos of repair

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Deleted photo of break

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

My What Broke???

September 19, 2014
Niherne, France

Why am I riding so low? I think my feet are pointing up more. What's happening here? Not good thoughts to have when Google Maps has again taken me down a remote farm road. I like being away from traffic, especially late in the day when I'm looking for a place to camp for the night. But not when I examine my trike to see what's the matter and see a gaping crack in the frame at the point that takes all the stress. Half of the frame has pulled away. SHIT! This is not good. I'm miles from any town. No cars go by here. I'm in a bit of a pickle.
DELETED PHOTO OF BREAK

First, do not get back on that bike. Not until it's fixed. You need it to carry your 60 lbs of stuff. If it breaks completely, you are totally SOL.

Next, find a place to camp for the night. I needed to give myself time to think about what to do.

Then, add reinforcement to the crack to prevent it from opening further. I have lots of Velcro. Wrap it well...that stuff is strong!

Now get some sleep. Like Scarlett, I'll think about this tomorrow:).

But of course I did work it all night. Oh and I emailed my bike shop to ask about repairing it with a weld. He said no, but forwarded my email on to the manufacturer, Inspired Cycle Engineers.

Ok, if I can't weld it, then I need to get to Lyon, 300 kms away, to get to an ICE dealer to get this fixed. Guess I'll need some help with getting there...or getting to a town with public transportation.

When I feel a bit overwhelmed by a situation, like this, I look at just the next step I have to take...and take that. Then figure out the next one. So I knew in the morning I need to push Blaze to a nearby village and get help. First step.

Funny thing this morning, a van went by the tent before I was dressed and I didn't react. Then he went by again, going back, while I was making coffee and again I did nothing. Don't know why I didn't rush out to him. I was focused on walking to town. And I was not packed up. Guess that was why.

So I packed her up and started pushing. Walking a trike is not easy. Steering and brakes are low and up front. Ya gotta push from the rear. It's complicated. Especially on the road on a downhill. How to brake? Used my umbrella with the handle loop around the handle and brake lever. Twist it to tighten the lever and break. Push and pull it to steer. Worked it out.

After about 5 miles we entered a small town and right away I spotted some people outside with trucks and machinery. I am shy. No one believes me. I have to push myself to approach. I wait in the middle of the drive but only one man sees me. He's not responding but you can see he's wondering what's up. Finally I say Bonjour. And walk over. In my very broken French I explain that I have a problem with my bike. The Madame is very gracious and speaks slowly with me. The guys check out the problem. There's much talking that I don't understand. They think it can be repaired OR they can get me to a bus station but they don't think my trike will fit. Worry about that later.

So it's decided that Martin will take me and we'll see if we can get it fixed. Otherwise maybe his wife, who's going to Chateauroux (train town), can take the bike in her small car. It folds! I say. In the next village, after Martin talks to several different men we end up at a job plant where one gets stuff made. They are busy says the receptionist. But the main man looks at it and says "bring it back here" in French. They clear a couple of saw horses and tip Blaze upside down on them. A serious operation!

DELETED PHOTOS OF REPAIR

Twenty minutes later, hotter than heck, she's ready to go. And so are the skies...a storm is approaching. 20€ to the receptionist and we're off to the center of town. I find an overhang for Martin to deposit me, my bike, and my stuff. All before the heavens open. Two cheek kisses thank you, my agreement to write, a quick blurry photo,


and I'm ready to ride!

After all is said and done, I find an email from ICE, the manufacturer that it can't be welded (too late) and they will send a replacement wherever I wish. So I'm headed to Lyon (200 miles) on my "unrepairable" trike where Blaze gets a butt replacement.


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

The Most Momentous Wild Camping Experience

September 17, 2014
Loches, France

After 5 glorious days at a campground in Tours, resting, enjoying Chuck and Susan's company (Brad and Lesley...their kids), and getting chores done, I departed this morning. Not alone. Susan joined me. Her plan is to ride south with me, spend the night wild camping, then bike back to Tours where Chuck us healing from minor surgery before they continue on.

And one of my chores was getting a decent SIM card so Google Maps would assist me again routing my travels. So today with a route chirping in my ear and Susan on her compactly packed trike behind, we took off. Girls ride! Wahoo. Siri (my google voice) wound us through the most delightful countryside and villages. A slow leisurely day. About 4 pm we found this old woods and garden with an old shed, overgrown bushes and freshly cared for veggie garden...only strawberries left. We picked a spot to put up our tents needing a rock to pound in the stakes because the ground is so hard and dry. All of a sudden we se a car pull in up the dirt road and around the bushes to where are tents and bikes are parked. Pssssss! Blow out tire!! Look at that! A tent stake is protruding. SHIT! We're in deep doodoo now! An confused, elderly couple emerge from the car. In our limited French we are apologizing, trying to explain why we're camped on their property. They are angry and perplexed. First they need to call for a repair. I dial the number with my phone. Need to call the 800 number. They don't answer. He tries so many different numbers and can get nowhere. We're staying close, manning up to our responsibility. Tell them we'll pay for a new tire. Finally he connects with someone and gets the repair truck summoned. Then he shows us the cabin and asks us why we didn't camp in front? Then he wouldn't have hit our stake. We did ask if we could stay the night or did we have to leave after the tire was fixed. We finally understood we can stay but no mess, no paper. Bien sure. Of course. And then we waited. And waited. And waited. By the road. With them. We tried to talk with them as much as we could. They have no children. One son died in a motorcycle accident when he was 23. He showed us where we could pump water for washing up. He showed us the outhouse. Finally about 90 minutes later a guy showed up and changed the tire. (We probably could have done it for them but didn't need anything else to go wrong.) We insisted on paying for the tire. A woman, perhaps their agent, don't know, said insurance would pay for it but finally we got and understanding that we would. He won't know until he gets the garage to put a new tire on it how much it is. We insisted on giving them €100 and we will stay here tomorrow until he gets it repaired and returns here with the exact price. We felt so bad but told them we were delighted to meet them. She kissed me goodbye. Such a sweet couple under stressful conditions. He swore a few times but I think he was madder at the garage than us. Craziest wild camping experience ever!!!


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Enjoying It More

September 10, 2014
Le Guedeniau, France

France is growing on me as we get to know each other better. So many villages, often only 3-5 miles apart..of all sizes. And always clean. No litter. And usually planted with flowers everywhere. And churches with bells that ring when I ride into town! I seem to always be there either on the hour or the half and feel that the bells are announcing my arrival:). But often there don't appear to be any people in the villages or any stores. That seems strange.

I've got the wild camping figured out here to...camp on the village parks. Most every mid size and larger village has one. Mowed grass and picnic tables. Sometimes a river or pond. I've also learned about caravan parking places that have water and sometimes showers, I was told tonight. I need to get more local maps from the Tourist Info places. The one I got today showed these truck symbols down the road I wanted to use today. Darn, I thought...does that mean a truck route? I'm trying to avoid those even if I have to cycle further. No, it's the symbol of a campervan. Where the symbol is is a parking place for campervans and sometimes services. Like where I am tonight. But I've got this lovely park overlooking a pond.


If you look closely left of center you can see my tent. And another thing they do in the villages: turn off the street lights after 10 pm! I love it!! Quiet AND dark!











I have a direction for the immediate future. A Facebook touring friend and his wife who have been traveling through Europe this summer on trikes are in Tours, about 70 miles from me when I found out this morning. He's there healing for a few days from some minor surgery, so I'm heading there to meet them in person:). Such fun to be meeting people you've been internet friends with! Sure helped me pick up the pace today!

September 10, 2014
Luynes, France

Today ended with the most frustration and the best encounter. Frustration was finding a camping place because I went further than I wanted to and ended up in an urban area. Eventually after many false starts and even starting to set up my tent and being told No, I ended up in a town park. And there I met Elise, a 17 yr old girl out walking her dog. She came by my tent, sat down, and shared a bit of her life with me in mostly English. She offered to get anything I might need and also be available by phone tomorrow if I got lost in Tours. So sweet! I hope someday I can maybe help her come visit the USA! Stay in touch with me, Elise!


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Slow Going

September 8, 2014
Montjean, France

I'm struggling with the language. Didn't think knowing some of a language was such a hindrance, but when I try to talk to people, they think I understand more than I do. And I wish I did. It's a lot like being hard of hearing and it's quite frustrating.

A woman stopped me in a village today and she was so excited about my bike but that's about all I got. No, that's not true. She'd had knee replacement about 5 months ago and retired 3 months ago. And I met her daughter and boyfriend who passed. But I'm not used to being at a loss for words, and I was. I find myself avoiding people to avoid the struggle. I'm sure this will improve too.

I'm also frustrated with my mileage. It's just not accumulating. And I'm pedaling hard and long. Guess I'm getting old. I just don't seem to be able to break 30 most days. Why not? Perhaps it's the heat. Tis quite warm and muggy. That must be it.

But I did have a lovely reminder today that it doesn't matter how slowly you go, if you keep trying, you'll get there. I was hanging around the Super U (think mini Walmart) drying tent, charging phone and resting in the shade when I looked up and saw this old, disheveled, handicapped man shuffling mini steps...shuffle, shuffle, stomp the cane...shuffle, shuffle, stomp the cane, and rest... And he had a heavy coat on (in this heat) and where he came from I haven't a clue as this store was in an industrial, commercial area. But as I watched him creep ever so slowly to the store, it reminded me to keep going forward. I admired his determination under such challenging conditions. Who am I to complain?

Another people encounter the other day I want to share was with an elderly woman that I saw sliding down an extremely steep (think vertical) bank on the side of the road. The bank was about 8-10 ft high. I stopped and asked her if I could help. Misunderstanding I got up to give her a hand, envisioning both of us sliding down this bank. When I offered my hand she shook her head and said she's used to doing this. In a dress? Then she admired my bike and asked me if I was hungry as she handed me some nuts. Wish I knew my nuts. They cracked with my teeth and we're quite tasty. Love the rural women of any country. So tough!

Funny how when my day becomes so simple the little things mean a lot. Oh ya, the sun this morning was amazing! I've never seen a sun that orange when rising, only setting. It blew me away! Lately there's been no sun in the morning because the moisture in the air has caused dense cloud cover. It's humid here!

I love the houses here. This must be where the concept of McMansions came from...in days of yore. The old houses are massive and well maintained. The barns are huge too and go one forever. All stone.




In fact, I see little poverty here. The villages are neat and clean, buildings repaired, no litter, new construction both buildings and highways. And flowers everywhere. The gardens are beautiful!

Met the cutest kids last night that wanted to help me find my way. We conversed pretty well.



Love interacting with children wherever I am. So fresh and innocent and curious.

I ran out of food today and desperately needed a grocery store. I can never be sure where I'll find one. I have yet to see a little neighborhood one. I think they've been out out of business by Super U. Sadly so. So I came into my first village this morning and see a town map on a sign. Hmm. The patisserie et boulangerie (bakery and butcher) is around the corner. Go look. Closed...permanently. Cafe nearby. Closed too. Ah, there's a bar/restaurant. At least I can eat something. It's 10:30 am. Do you have anything to eat. Not until noon. I must have looked desperate because she asks me something, which of course I don't understand other than the word "sweet" and I said I don't know, and she leaves. She comes back saying something about potatoes and tomatoes. That's all I understood. I said Yes. It'll be something to eat:). And I got a plate of various cold salads all with mayo dressing, some slices of salami and a slice of melon. Great! When I finish she asks me if I want something sweet. Yes. 12 € ($16) later I have a belly and information of a town that had a grocery store (the Super U:))! That was my first meal in France. I'll have to try again when the kitchen is really open. I don't think restaurants will be cheap here.


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Je Continue

September 4, 2014
Coutances, France

I'd call this day a nero. Nearly a zero (for zero miles pedaled). But I got somethings understood. Got some map photos at the book store (the clerk even helped me), spoke more French (even helped a British woman communicate at the coffee counter), got blogs posted, mail read, and other internet chores done, and got to speak English with 2 British families:). A cute story about the one family on vacation (it was the mom I helped with my suave French) is about the 7 yr old's lost tooth. Catch this: he doesn't want to put the tooth under his pillow while on vacation in France because Euros are useless to him! Better to wait until he gets back home to England and gets pounds Sterling! I love it! How astute is he? Love the minds of kids!!!

Now I'm on a cycle path just outside of town that wound back away from the busy main road and I think this will be my home for the night. Stopping at 4 o'clock seemed a bit early but a rest day feels good. And I know a farmer won't be stopping by here tonight:)

September 6, 2014
South of Ducey, France

I did move on a bit that night to an even better meadow just around the bend so that I could enjoy the evening sun and I did!




And the next day I kept my needle pointed to Avranches but bless me, I turned towards the coast late in the day and decided to pay for a campground. Read: shower, laundry, wifi, and even maybe company. I got it all! Although the wifi was nothing to write home about...but they did have a nice pool, so add a swim to the list.

And then wasn't I blessed this morning with a slow, leisurely (aren't all my rides this way?) ride along the Bay of Mont St Michael with views of it all along the way.



It's that point in the middle. I believe it was an abbey a long time ago. I visited it when I was 18 but have little memory of it. I just know it's really built up now and too many people is not my thing. I did happen upon a delightful museum about life in the bay: geology, plants and fish, fishing on foot and harvesting sea salt. The English on the signs outside led me to believe there would be English subtitles inside. I was led astray:(. But I did find I understood enough.

I have a bit of good news about my phone. There's some sort of cell signal with this useless SIM card and it gives me my location on Google maps! Wahoo! I'm not lost!! Today I went to McDonalds to use wifi...yuck...but when I asked Google to give me a bicycle route through the city to help me get across, it came back with No Routes! Oh no! That's why I asked it, because I couldn't see one. But I figured out a way around it, never getting into traffic. And I was gifted at the end of the day by the guy at the patisserie where I stopped to buy bread with free bread and these couchettes (don't hold me to the name, but their mini popovers coated in sugar glaze...and yummy...to make me strong, he said:)). He kept asking me about my journey and I stumbled along trying to explain. I love it when they don't give up on me and keep talking! It makes for conversation. And I'm hungry to talk, as you can well imagine.

Then along the cycle path out of town, I met Regina on her recumbent. She and her husband have ICE trikes too. She's on her annual week long solo bike tour. She spoke English, but I found it hard to leave my French.




Tonight I'm in a No Camping woods, but on the edge with the "pique-nique" tables. I don't think anyone will bother me. Mosquitoes are back. Yuck! Started last night. Just enough to annoy me and drive me I to my tent early.

"Be careful what you wish for." Remember when I was cold, wet, and wind-blown? Not any more. Hot and dry and still. Hmmm.

I'm struggling with a direction to head. That's why I love following coast lines. So simple. Do I want to cross the Alps? Head to the coast? Go down the middle? Where to go? What to do? When to fly to Australia? From where? These are decisions I always struggle with. Too many options. Any input?

Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Omitted Photo from a Few Days Ago

September 4, 2014
Coutances, France

As y'all know, I sometimes have trouble including photos. I've figured out that it's usually one photo and if I delete it, the blog will post. I also figured out that if I resize the problem photo, it will post. The challenge can be finding the problem photo.




This is the photo from a few posts ago. I just love it so wanted to get it on my blog. Here's hoping a resizing will work!

Also, please know I have no cell phone service in France. No prepaid SIM card will work with my iphone they say. Guess I'll adapt somehow. Maps will be the biggest challenge but for a good bit, I'm following cycle routes. Wish they'd do a better job of routing me through the cities:)

Free wifi, it will have to be!


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

An Autre Jour en France

September 3, 2014
Coutances, France




Off a back farm yard next to the farm dump. With April gone, so has the magic of finding sweet camping spots:(. Although last nights was nice: off a rail trail at a gate to a horse pasture. This morning I found out 4 donkeys (or mules...wish I knew how to differentiate...note to self) also resided in that pasture and they liked to paw the plastic buckets earlier and also heehaw the most godawful sound that would wake the dead. How can that gut wrenching noise come out of that sweet animal? I'd never heard anything like it. Won't be animals tonight. Just me and the blackberries. I'd continue on to see what's up ahead, but I don't want to pass this town and it's only a couple of miles away. I need to get to the Orange shop to get my phone card straightened out.

I'm speaking French. It's rusty and people who stopped and asked me a question start to turn away but I ask them to forgive me and try again. Some are more patient than others. My mind races to find those words not used for 45 years. When I get my phone working again I'm going to look some lost or new words up. I just need them to talk slower. And I ask them to do that. Slow, like my bike:)

The French don't like to wave, I've noticed. After weeks of people waving or lifting at least a finger when they pass me, this staring with no acknowledgement is a bit weird. I wave. Nothing. I think in 3 days 2 people have waved. Oh well. Just different. It's hard not being able to chat people up because that's what I do. I hope it gets easier each day. I'll keep trying. I had a woman today say I spoke good French. All I had asked her was "parlez-vous englais?" (Do you speak English?). It forces me to stumble along throwing words at her to get my message across. Then I grope to understand what she's saying back to me. Pride goes out the window when communication is necessary:). And I can easily laugh at myself! Just happy for the connection!!

Off to wash up and fix some dinner. Maybe just zucchini and Parmesan. Maybe noodles too. I'm pretty tired. 22 miles on a gravel-y, flat rail trail is exhausting. I averaged only 5 mph and I worked for every one!

I thought I was done writing for tonight, but I just had in interlude with the farmer. Imagine my surprise when a truck pulls in up the road! In my broken French I ask him if this is a problem and he shakes his head. All I can think about is having to pack up and move on. I'm too tired. As I struggle to respond, he breaks into a smile and says it's fine. Then I get the usual questions about feast and being alone and then a new one...is that tent for 2 people or just one? What is he insinuating?!! Just one, I respond even though it's a 2 person tent. This after telling me I'm a beautiful woman. And I laugh. Then I ask him the French word for blackberry and he mentions that all the farmers here make it into jam. And he said he grew a lot of corn. Then he wished me a goodnight, all the while pondering why anyone would do what I do. You could read it in his face. Murphy's Law, isn't it? How many times have you pulled I to a driveway to turn around just to have the homeowners want to pull in behind you? It happens to me a lot! Tonight was a perfect example. Oh well. Now I'm camping with permission!


Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

Je Parle un Peu de Francais

September 1, 2014
Brix, France

I'll keep writing even though I can't find a wifi strong enough to upload these posts with the photos. One frustration after another. (It's titled BagLady's Travels and Torments for a reason...sometimes I like to complain:)). I had a long list of things I was going to get done over the wifi on the ferry. Not! Too weak. Argh. Then I figured I'd get a new SIM card in France and it would work better than my UK one on roaming. And that wasn't easy or simple. One girl spoke English but chose not to comprehend even when a gentlemen stepped in to help translate. You mean you can't just tell me the series of steps I have to take to buy and activate a card. How hard can it be?? And I have to what to buy a plan? Go to the Tobacco shop to put € on my account? You can't take my money in the Orange store? The store that sells and provides the service. I did all that they asked and while they closed for lunch, the 17€ I had on my account dropped to 4€ and is now 1€ maybe. I go back to Orange. Where's my money go? It's your phone. It ate it. Mise en jouer or something she said. How do I tell Orange which plan I want after the Tobacco guy puts money on my account? Blank look. I don't know what you mean. The Tobacco guy is suppose to do something more. Really? What? Clueless. I go back to Tobacco guy who speaks fairly good English. I have to put more money on. Will you call Orange and see if you can figure out the final step that applies the money I have on credit to a plan? He tried to first call and apply the voucher on my account but Orange was having technical difficulties. Argh! I gave up and left town. I have a voucher for 10 € more but I'm not calling it into my account until someone tells me how I get it applied to a plan before it just dissolves before my very eyes. This has been the most costly and most frustrating of all the new SIM card experiences. If you don't hear from me often, that's why. No service. Might do me good to disconnect. Who knows.

The good news is, once you find them, there are well marked cycle routes down lovely lanes and back roads. I did manage to get a book at the Tourist Information that shows them for this area. That should be good for a few days. They're longer to travel, but so much quieter.

And it's warmer here! Feels almost like home in many ways. No rain all day! Wahoo!

I'm tucked away in a farmer's field tonight. No views but oh so quiet and relaxing. Guess I needed this after my 18 hour ferry ride. I don't handle motion well so I took a bit of Dramamine. And as usual it knocked me out. I slept 12 hours. Good way to pass the time. So many people. So expensive. Better to sleep. And frustrate over the internet.

Overheard on the ferry:
Mother: Make sure your doll doesn't drop.

Little girl: I'm make sure-ing:)

Gotta love kids!

I did meet a fellow Triker, Stephan, from Germany that also took the ferry. I think folks thought we were together because we were riding the same bikes.



Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerma

Sleeping in a Cemetery

August 29, 2014
Ballygarrett, Ireland

After so many great camping spots, including last night's windy cliff spot
OMITTED PHOTO
ya have to finally suffer. A challenge to find because the area is populated without nooks and crannies for the likes of me...and not the finest of accommodations although someone did recently mow the lawn here in anticipation of my arrival...in the cemetery.

But the grave stones up the hill have a water view. I can hear the ocean. That must count for something.

Busy, social day. Started with John, the B&B owner next to my cliff campsite inviting me over for morning coffee with a shrill whistle and raising a cup. I gave him a thumbs up.



Oh did he have some great stories of guests he'd had. Especially the girl walking from Dublin to Rosslare carrying a harp to earn her keep.

Later in the day I came upon Julie and her mom, Sheila out for a walk. Sheila's wheelchair-bound now but has lived in her husband's family farmhouse 60 years. It's been in the same family for over 300 years! I wisely said yes to their invite for coffee and had a wonderful chat. Special moments!



Later a mom waiting for her son to get off the bus chatted with me saying she hoped that when she was older she would get to explore the world like I was. You can if you want to. Just put one foot in front of the other and make it happen.





Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman

A Sunny Day in Ireland

August 31, 2014
Rosslare, Ireland

It's my last morning in Ireland and sadly, I'm happy to be leaving. The rain and cold has done me in this time and the warmth of the people was not enough to overcome it. And they have been warm and welcoming, cheering me on with their smiles...and cups of coffee:)

So wouldn't ya know it...on my last night here, I got my worst campsite: the side of a dirt road that leads to a cemetery. It had a grassy flat spot and after many attempts down odd lanes that led to condos, No Camping signs, or cow pastures, all overlooking the ocean with great views, I had to settle for this. But I learned that the view isn't always on the ground when I got this to watch out my tent door:




And this morning, would ya believe it? Sun and not a cloud in the sky. Not a wisp. Nada. I checked in every direction because I couldn't believe Ireland ever had days like this! So thank you, Ireland, for this beautiful last day on your green, green land!!!



Livin' the life,

BagLady

Facebook: Kathryn Mossbrook Zimmerman