Loitering, Lingering, and Lolly-gagging

Tuesday June 26th
Machynlleth, Wales (and don't ask me to pronounce it!)
Rain...what else? Yesterday was an anomoly - however that's spelled...


Worse campsite yet. It was getting late and I was getting desperate and it was raining and a big town was coming up. I'm right by a major road but back off yet in plain view and near all the road noise. Shut up in my tent with new lines strung above to dry things overnight and gear out each door...this place looks trashed. Amazing how all this gets packed up and fits on Blaze in a fairly orderly and consistent way.

New lost item: headlamp. Haven't needed here because I'm asleep before the sun sets, but the last time I remember using it was at the hostel in Bantry. Haven't seen it since and couldn't find it this morning. Backup is the headlight on Blaze since it's not getting any use on her.

Late, late start this morning. I do not even begin to pack up if it's raining. Nope. It's my rule. So this morning I didn't start until 11 am! I slept late, made coffee, read, slept some more...and awoke to silence. Ah, I love this pace. How slow can I go?

(There's a song playing on my iPod that is bringing tears to my eyes. I have a memory of Dana dancing with me in the kitchen to it and I cried then...too... Top of the World - Dixiie Chicks... I loved being their mom more than anything I've done in my life and so miss having them around all the time. But alas, they have lives of their own and I'm free to wander the world...)

ok, I digress...back to Wales and rain and ...

I was biking along the coast with the most spectacular scenery: green rolling pastures dotted with little white sheep, old stone houses with rosebushes winding up the sides, ancient cemeteries and churches, and off in the distance was the Irish Sea.

Also saw a sign for the steepest grade yet.



I'm sure glad I was going downhill. I do not even think I could have pedaled up that hill. I would have had to hitch a ride for the both of us.

Borth where I got lunch a wifi (not free) is a beach town, but today was not a beach day. Grey, overcast, and drizzling. But it had it's own essence to it and I enjoyed it just the same.

Then I pulled onto a "green" road. They're the largest roads on my Wales map. Lots of cars. No choice. Got to use them to get across the mountains. That's what the next couple of days brings. Today I had to cycle through road construction while it was raining. Oh, the cheers I got from the construction crew pedaling along with my silver umbrella up was priceless! Even some drivers gave me cheery beeps. LIfts my spirits immensely. So the next time you see a loaded cyclist, signal to her: thumbs up, a wave, or a cheery beep. It will make her day! Some days it's the energy of others that pushes us through.

I managed to have a successful day of loitering, lingering, and lolly-gagging around. Dropped the guilt and traveled to my inner voice. Great day even with the rain and the lousy camping spot and the car traffic (which is dimming as rush hour has passed).

My thumbs seem to be holding up as long as I don't do any writing. Tonight I did some postcards and holding a pen really irritates them...well, the right one. Not taking anything for them because I don't know what causes that skin reaction and I don't want anymore of it.

Enought babbling. I figured out I write at night for the company, so thanks for spending the evening with me.

BagLady


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Teenage Hooligans!

Friday, June 29th (2012...for when I'm reading this years from now and wonder...)
Shrewsbury, England
Rain in am...sun in pm...

9 pm. Late night for me to be starting my journal. Got lost in Shrewsbury and was going in circles, I found out. Thanks, Sam...for trying to orientate me:) I did finally - after another asking down the road and cycling down a one way with folks yelling at me, like I didn't know it...did finally find the road I wanted.

A kid, Ben, also tried to help me but I didn't believe he knew enough and my problem is explaining where I want to go: the yellow roadl, not the green or the red.

I'm camped in a clearing behind a sports complex...kinda in the bushes because I didn't want to be on the beautiful grass. It's sort of trail back through here that has been recently weed-whacked. Again, I'm in the dog walking area! Me and the dogs fighting for turf! This woman tried to walk down the path and was weaving around my tent. I apologized for being in her way and said I didn't want to camp on the sports fields. She said they'd probably arrest me! Well, maybe I'd get another shower! I know it's going to be much harder finding places as it gets more congested. I'll just have to play it by ear. (Another dog just waddled by:))

Did a lot of cycling today and got to another country: England. Feels different than Wales and different than Ireland. It's a bit more worn around the edges, but the people have been as terrific as ever.

Just when I crossed over the border...and you don't know when that happens without consulting a map...I came across "Hill Climb". What's this? I was needing a distraction anyways, so I pulled into this incredible park. Turns out it used to be part of some Lord's estate and now the 300+ walled acres just contains mostly deer and woodlands...and this 1 mile, twisty, turny, paved, one-lane race course for cars.



They are timed as to how fast they can navigate the climb and there are different classes for the different types of cars all the way up to Formula 1 cars. The record was something like 43 seconds. The guy let me walk part of the course. Pretty cool. Obviously it takes some definite good driving skills! Has anyone ever seen something like this in the States? Not I.




Not all chews are good. I'm suffering with today's purchase which is sticky too much to my teeth...annoying! Got to have at least one torment!

It's about 100 miles to Sheffield. I planned out a route today on my map app. It's so hard to get it to give me the backroads. I have to keep putting in way points of little towns on the roads that I want to take. There's more than one way to skin a cat.

Well, this may have been a bad place to camp. Some guys just came by and slapped my tent. I stuck my head out to let him know that a woma
}"@:>@
>>>>*@#

10 pm. I had to pack up and move. Even though it was after 9 and I was all comfy in my tent, those boys were gonna be trouble. They pulled the cover off of Blaze and ran with it laughing. I don't feel safe. They were too brazen and they were drinking and it's Friday night. That was the fastest packing job I've ever done. It was dark due to heavy clouds and threatening rain again! Half hour later I'm camped a mile down the road in the side field of a Rugby Club. Hope they aren't earlier risers. Maybe I'll get to see them play. I'm in the country now and although I can hear the city noise, it's further away. Well, that was a first! As I left, I noticed it was across from an apartment complex. Not good. Teenagers are the worst. I hope my British experience improves. It's not off to a good start:(

Oh, before I forget. In Wales (and maybe here) you have to pay about 8 cents for a plastic bag at the grocery store. It's the law. And they say it has reduced bag requests about 80%. Didn't they do that in LA? My problem is I use those bags for garbage. I'll have to remember to get bags in produce for garbage.

Goodnight. Sweet dreams!

BagLady


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Emma, Ben, Lyra, and Sylvie

Wednesday, June 27th
Machynlleth, Wales
Rainy morning, sunny afternoon

Yup, same town, other end. This going slow is most enjoyable! Opportunities to do other things and share connections. Guilt free.

Lots of honks for me this morning from the many cars passing my spot by the roundabout. And all they could see was a soggy tent and soggy bike cover through the mist. Sure made me feel welcome. Since I was so close to town, packing up wasn't as difficult because I knew where I was getting breakfast! And when I got to town: market day! The street was lined with vendors. My lucky day! Found a veggie cafe and got scrambled eggs and toast and my latte...trying to hook up to wifi, when in comes a young family.
"We love your bike!"
"Are you touring too?"
"Yes with the 2 girls!"
"Please join me!"



So that's how this day begain. Ben and Emma, Lyra and Sylvie live in England and are biking to friends' house for holiday. They've been on the road for 4 days, camping too. Their daughters are 4 and 2. What brave young parents! They ride with Lyra on the back of a tandem and Sylvie in a trailer. Then after breakfast, some great info on the best route to Sheffield, and goodbyes, we went our separate ways. Small town. I kept running into them. They decided to get a room and go to the Center for Alternative Technology this afternoon which was just outside of town. May I join you?

Then after lunch we met up and cycled there. Fascinating place they started in a quarry 40+ years ago by local hippies, exploring sustainable building, heating, and growing methods. Now it's the largest alternative energy research and education center in Europe. This is something I have a strong interest in and know I need to find a way to do it. It feels right! The "where" is still a big question.

I had such fun. Lyra wanted me to sit beside her. What an honor that is! And later tonight after our pizza picnic in the hotel courtyard, while Lyra had mommy time, Ben, Sylvie and I went to check out the camping site Ben had found for me. Sylvie, who previously had not really acknowledged me, played tag with me. And she's fast! The smiles, the giggles, happiness is...

In the morning, we'll have our goodbyes, but I so enjoyed today and their energy, patience with their daughters, and interest in a sustainable future. A fascinating couple! Thank you, Universe!!! You done good!

Oh, and they introduced me a drink I really liked: lemonade and beer. (Although I think the lemonade was more like Sprite.) It's called a Shandy. Now that I can drink! Makes beer actually tasty:)

BagLady






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Ups and Downs, But No Hills

Monday June 26th
Aberystwyth, Wales
Sun! I awoke to sun! Didn't help. I still didn't want to get up:/

11 am (sitting at the laundromat) But finally did and was blessed with Donna, Griff, and Tomas. Mom and kids going down to the river via the cycle path before nursery school. Said hey on the way down and we got chatting on the way back. I needed that! Thanks Donna for the lift me up.



8 pm What a fabulous day. Did less than 5 miles and couldn't care less. Spent the day in Aberystwith (I'd been missing the y before), gots lots done, got little done, enjoyed the people I met and got to facetime with my daughter, Dana for hours this afternoon. Was like spending the time right with her. Would love to do the same with my other daughter and her hubby, but time differences is one challenge since she's in San Diego so it's 8 hours and I have to be in wifi range and the skype has to work. I've been trying to skype a few different friends lately and it just drops. Don't know why facetime works. But wait! Avery, don't you have an iTouch? Can you do Facetime with it? Dennis can with his. Send me an email and let me know. I can't even make an appt because I don't know where I'll be when.

Aberystwith is a mini city right on the coast with a harbor and a beach and condos! And a lot of one-way streets, my nemesis. I don't even know how to tell a street is one way except to watch the traffic flow. I never saw a one way sign anywhere today. I did see some Do Not Enter slashes. They don't mean me! I take to the sidewalk usually if it's a one way because I don't know how else to necessarily get where I'm going. These streets aren't laid out in a grid, ya know.

So met the most fun people today! The guy by the laundromat who said he had seen me yesterday and wanted to stop then and talk but didn't. He'd been researching these trikes and knew a lot about them. He didn't accept my offer to take Blaze out a spin though.

Then the lady that I asked directions to a cycle shop and it turns out she was giving me directions out of town to a hardware store. When we were chatting about TV, she said "I like a bit of my trash!"

And the girl at the coffee shop with free wifi who just couldn't get over that I was going to cycle all the way to Sheffield, but gave me great directions to the shore road (where I'm camped tonight).

And the little girl about 3 all dressed up in her princess costume of a full-length pink dress with wand. Princess Sophie! Precious! (Meeting kids is great because I'm right down at their eye level!)

And I got clean clothes!

The downer today was a technical challenge. For some reason, my mail accounts wouldn't download onto my iPhone while everything else was working fine. And it had been awhile since I had checked my mail so I was a bit peeved. I know I've had this problem once before but I''ll be damned if I can remember what the fix was. And a quick google brought no solution. So I thought I'd try deleting one of them (I keep 2: business and personal) and reloading it. But when I went to reload it, it wouldn't. Arrghh! Then I tried to get into it through Safari and it didn't like my password. Really? I know it's right. It's really odd how disconnected it made me feel not to be able to check my mail. And I felt like I couldn't get the problem fixed from my phone...and it's gonna be a long time before I'm home at my own computer. I already can't use Facebook except on my phone because I have turned on login controls that only work by sending me a code to my phone when I try and log in from a new computer...and my phone is turned off so I can't get the text message...and I can't change this option from my phone, so I'm stuck. And from the phone I can't "Share" or send "Friend Requests". So today, while on the phone with Dana, she was able to get into my gmail accounts and get it so I could view them in Safari. I still don't know why they don't load onto the phone as they used to. Anybody else know what's up with that?

To top off the day which started with me feeling lonely, was the invitation from Tina and Huw, my new neighbors for the night, of a cuppa tea. Yes! Newlyweds of just a year, so lucky to have found each other, beautiful modern home, great stories of his hitchhiking through Canada to Alaska and her daughter going to Rio Grande University in Ohio for an exchange program. But the best is just sharing a connection. Thank you both for the hospitality! I needed it and you shared it with me!!! And hot water is quite tasty...try it some time:)


Ok, my last tidbit tonight before I sign off is about my bath. I told you I got the clothes done today, but what good are clean clothes on a dirty body? It's only half the job done. But I didn't know how I was going to complete the other half. I cycled by a campground tonight and thought about getting a shower there and cycling on, but that would have felt quite cold to bike afterwards in the evening. But the Universe provides! Of course! I'm camped tonight on a plot of grass across from a church. An old church. And churches over here have their cemeteries right in the front yard...and the side yards...and the back yard. So for entertainment while I munched tonight's salad I wandered the grounds. And right next to the front gate and the front wall was a spigot! Hmmm. Unlimited water...hmmm. Get some and heat it up and ...oohhhh...hot bath in a cup! But wait...what about my hair? I know...under the spigot...so I did...crouching down behind the wall so I couldn't be seen...I lathered and creme rinsed...and now...it's CLEAN! Then I heated my big pot (all 3 cups) with water and used some to wash and some to rinse. A full, warm bath! I'm all clean and shiny now!



And full...of connections. No, I'm not lonely any more...just traveling alone...meeting the nicest people...who are filling me me up! Thank you to all the wonderful Welsh folks who are are reaching out to me on this journey and warming my soul:)))

I think this is the first time I've seen it get dark over here...it's 10:30.

Blessed BagLady


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SUN! Need I say more?

Rosy Swales. Walked around the world. Note to self to google her.

Sunday, June 24th
Aberstwyth, Wales
Sunny clouds ALL DAY!

In the grey, drizzly morning, it's so so hard to think about getting up and packing up. So I don't. I linger and I dawdle and I sleep some more and I ask myself why am I doing this and I feel guilty for laying around reading and guilty for going slow and I ask myself why do I feel guilty and on and on and on until something...I don't know what...pushes me to get moving...probably guilt of some sort. When Fuat was here, he always got up around 7 ish and got up straight away and started the coffee. I lingered then too. But then I knew there'd be a cup of hot coffee just waiting for me whenever I could manage to drag myself out of bed. I lingered less then then I do now. Just one morning, I'd like to awaken to sunshine and see if that made getting up any easier. There's always tomorrow.

I managed to delaying leaving Lampeter until 11 am: coffee, breakfast, chat with folks for directions, and groceries for the day . Today it was cheese and ginger snaps, cucumber and wine gums, and bread. Keeping up with sharing my meals (because I know one young lady that's worried I'll starve since Fuat has left), I had crusty wheat bread and brie with grapes for lunch and quinoa salad (a Fuat dish, you'll remember) for dinner. I had tomatoes, cukes, onion, cheese, red pepper and broccoli to put in it. So I'm still eating well. But I'm powered by "chewies". Back home I'm addicted to Swedish Fish..oh ya! But when I travel I have to settle for other countries chewies. And in Ireland I discovered Wine Gums. Yup, for now, thems my favs!

I got a bit of wifi today in a town I went through. I've learned to ask at hotels. I tried to call some friends and either they didn't answer of skype kept disconnecting. So no chatting.

Today's ride was much more like what I enjoy: rolling terrain. But outside of one town I wanted to take some smaller roads and go a more direct route than swing back to the coast to get the major road that crosses the mountains. About 1-2 miles out of town I took the picture of a sign that said "Mountain Road" and it had me worried, especially after yesterday.




But I proceeded, strong in my commitment to do this. But when the road got so steep again, I rethought "mountain road" and decided it was possible this was WORSE than yesterday. I'm not getting myself into trouble. So I turned around and whipped back into town, looked at my map, and went the main road. It was delightful and scenic. Got to a pub to get some water and chatted with the barmaid. SHowing her the map, we decided that the road I was attempting in that town was not even the right road and had I continued I would have been directly east (not north, the way I wanted to go) and way off course. Whew!

So tonight I'm camped on the side of a cycle path. Very hard to find my usual nooks over here. Took me over an hour to find this. But it's quiet and mostly out of the way...lots of foot traffic and not one person has stopped to ask me anything. Strange.

I just finished listening to Robert Fulghim's "What on Earth Have You Done?" Love his writing and thinking style. So much good wisdom in there! Do check it out. Better yet, listen to it because he reads it and adds lots of emphasis and enrichment. Truly enjoyed!

Now I"m on to "Water for Elephants" by Sara Gruen. A good reader really adds to a story and they've got 2 for this one because the storyteller is both young and old.

Listening to audiobooks is delightful and makes me feel less lonely out here. Besides it really passes the time and enhances my listening skills, which are very weak.

BagLady


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The Day My Legs Got Stronger

Saturday, June 23rd
Lampeter, Wales
Welsh weather...what more can I say?



Its 6 in the evening and I'm sitting in my tent in a town park in the...drum roll please...RAIN! Can you believe it? Rain in Wales? Who'da thunk??? Every evening. I'm growing moss on my north side. I think I may actually be getting used to it, feeling constantly soggy, that is:)

Do most of you know Miller Hill in Canandaigua? Cyclists talk about it all the time. It's the hill to beat all hills because of its grade. After today, Miller Hill would be a piece of cake. I did Miller Hills again and again and again. 14% grades. On and on and on. I wanted to cry when the steep steep downhills came into the next village because I knew what was coming after it. I did cry once. I felt so defeated and depressed. I didn't think I could go up yet again another effin' hill! Ya know how often when you're biking the steepness of the hill coming up looks bad but when you get there it's actually flatter than first it seemed. Not here. Nope. What you saw was what you got. Straight up. These roads were cut in before switchbacks were even a glint in someone's eye. I felt like I was hiking the AT all over again. The part where ya can't quit in the woods. The part where you're dying but ya still go on. Step by step by step. Well I pulled from deep within and slowly, ever so slowly, 1.5 mph slowly, with granny stops every 10 strokes (if I could do that many), rest, and stroke, and rest again. I know I can. I know I can. I know I can. And I did! And I'm not quitting like I thought I would...earlier today. No. However long it takes, I'm crossing the Cambrian Mountains of Wales and biking to Sheffield. Now from there I may take a bus to the ferries do I can get to the continent sooner. That's highly likely. But I'm figuring I can be in Sheffield in a week to 10 days and still do all the sightseeing I love to do. All the chatting with the locals that eats up much of my day:) And besides. I like a challenge. And besides, I did it today, so I know I can do it tomorrow...and the next day. One pedal stroke at a time. I got to Maine. I can sure as heck get to Sheffield. And what doesn't kill me only makes me stronger. (I'm gonna have thighs like an Olympic speed skater when this trip is over:))

Speaking of locals, my day started off by meeting the farmer that owned the land I camped on. I was sitting on a rock having my morning coffee when a truck pulled up to the tiny opening and backed in. He gets out and we begin to chat. He had seen me climbing that hill the night before and thought perhaps that I was handicapped and also thought about stopping to see if I needed help. WHen he saw the bike this morning he then knew who I was...and said "That'll be 50 quid!" I thought oh no...here we go again. (and 50 quid would have been about $75!) He moved here from about 20 km away 50 years ago when he married. Dairy farm he had. But now he rents out the farm and buys back the milk to make cheese. Says it's so much easier to rent than to farm!

Then a short ways on after I started I saw a couple of teenage girls (Kathryn - I spelled it like my name, but I don't know how she spells is...and her twin sister, Maggie) with a horse. I'd had a couple of horses and riders trot by me so I asked if it was them. Then we talked about riding a bit and why the little girl (Sally) had rags tied in her hair to hold the curls. And I have to say she had the most beautiful head of red hair I think I've ever seen!!! "Our sister's getting married today!" Oh, how old is she? "We don't know." That had me perplexed. THen they called there mom, Lynn, over to see my bike and she explained that the sister was in her 40's and from a previous marriage. Oh...now I understand.


(that's a picture of a picture I took with my Canon - I've figured out how to get some of my Canon pics into my blog)

She then showed me their pet foxes: Basil and Fern...acquired as pups when they were injured. I'd have been invited in for tea (and would have accepted for sure) but they had a busy day ahead and had to get going. Had it been another day I might have gotten to ride...it was the Starlight Riding Center, after all. Congratulations to your sister on her wedding day! Next time I'm in the neighborhood I'll stop in for that tea, Lynn:)

As you can tell from how this blog began, today was a tough, tough day. But there were moments that just warmed my heart and fueled my legs. People waving from their windows...of their houses! I was stopped on one of those hills adjusting something and I looked across the street and saw and man and women my age waving. So I waved backed. Then she motioned to see if I wanted a drink. I would have loved to have stopped, but I was going ever so slowly as it was and had talked to so many people today already and I didn't need a drink so I gave her a thumbs up and motioned "thank you" and cycled on. But I can tell you, it sure lifted my spirits seeing the smile on their faces and the generous offer of a drink. So without even saying a word to each other we had a connection and I was moved.

Later today a similar thing happened. Again I was stopped and again I was adjusting. I looked over across the road and a young dad is holding a baby showing him me out the window. I wave. I always wave to kids (especially ones down at my level) and Dad waved back and then in the corner I see the arm of Mom waving too. Thank you, strangers for cheering me up today. I sure needed it:)



I almost forgot to mention eating Chunky Cawl. It was a Welsh stew in a pastry pocket. And quite tasty. You should have seen the look on the young girls' faces when I mentioned I was a vegetarian as I ate it. "It's not vegetarian!" they exclaimed in a panic. I said I knew that but that I like to sample local foods and that meant eating meat. It won't kill me now and then. I'm not strict when I visit people's houses because I don't want them to go out of their way for me AND I want to experience their foods. I just don't cook meat at home.

And now goodnight:)

Battered BagLady

P.S. gonna try tent yoga tonight. My legs and hips need stretching and it's too wet outside. This should be fun:/

P.p.s. And the reason I came to Lampeter, the quilt exhibit comparing Welsh quilts up Amish quilts...the gallery is closed the next 2 days and I won't get to see it:(

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Cardigan, the Sweater and the Town

Friday June 22nd
near Newcastle Emlyn
rain morning then clear and mostly sunny!

11:00 am Cardigan coffee shop
Slept 12 hours last night then laid in bed for another hour angsting over the weather (rain...duh!) and how to get up the courage to venture out into it...arrgghhh! Why oh why did I leave my warm dry nest yesterday? But then again, when I put my hiker head on, life is good. I love the challenges...remember?!!! I do this because the cushy life bores me. That's why I couldn't stay yesterday.

Last night the rain started about 5 pm and let up at 11 pm. All night I heard the rain dropping from the trees onto my tent whenever the wind blew. This tent will not dry under all these trees.

So I dragged my sorry ass out of my sleeping bag and had to figure out what clothes the day required. How warm or cold...how wet or dry. How to stay cool but not cold. Cool enough not to cause hot flashes but warm enough not to cause freeze flashes. Have I mentioned my thermostat is BROKEN? Completely broken. Doesn't work on either end of the spectrum. If I'm the least bit warm, the hot guns fire and I'm sweating in no time...right over the top. And if I'm the least bit chilled, I'm frozen to the core. It's so hard to find that middle temperature and it requires a lot of adjusting of gear: coats, hats, gloves, pant legs etc. If there's something that affects my temperature you can bet it's been on and off my body several times during the day.

I got my coffee made and my gear packed up and started pedaling on up the hill. I camped halfway. Up and up. And I too got to point where my rear tire was spinning because the road was so steep and wet. That was the first time I've ever gotten off and pushed Blaze. And it was no easy task. First, the parking brake doesn't hold well so I was holding the hand brakes and trying to stand up on a very steep hill. Once up I had to release all the brakes and not let her runaway backwards. Yikes. Push! I had trouble finding my own footing. Get your back into it. Come on, wimp! We made it!

It was actually a beautiful morning for cylcing...in the light rain, I was grinning with happiness. The Welsh countryside is gorgeous: manicured pastures, tree-lined fencelines, the white caps on the bay in the foggy distance. And I'm right here!!

Some thoughts as I pedaled along:
- why do they have locked gates on cemeteries? Is that to keep the dead locked in or the living locked out?
- the roads have very high hedges growing out of very high banks...I couldn't see a view even if I stood up!

There were more thoughts that I so wanted to remember to write down, but they're gone now. I have great ideas while I'm pedaling...earth-shaking, life-changing...and I tell myself "Remember them!" And then when I have a moment to write them down...nothing...what were they? They're in there somewhere...think! Nope, not coming.

Sitting in a cafe in Cardigan, watching the sun break through out there. Making plans for this afternoon to go visit a castle.



7 pm winding my way to Newcastle Emlyn

Next time someone suggest you might want to go back around because of the hill up ahead, you might want to listen to them. I was not on the road I thought I was, even after talking to the guy, and have winded my way through the back hills not getting much closer to where I wanted to be. Oh well, c'est la vie!

After I left the cafe, with the waitresses suggestion, I went to see the cardigan on display.


She said it was done to honor the 900th birthday of the town. Can you even imagine a town 900 years old? Boggles the American mind! Well this cardigan was a knitted quilt of different buildings and scenes of the town. Most artistic and clever! Many kids helped too. She said a jumper her daughter had outgrown but dearly loved us unraveled and knitted into the cardigan. It was so amazing to see this enormous sweater hanging in an art gallery. THat's the stuff I travel to see.

Then I wandered out of town after chats and hugs with some women working in a 2nd hand shop. I was suppose to be finding the cycle path that went along the river to the next town and a castle I wanted to see. Asked 2 different guys, got 2 different instructions and following first one then the other, still didn't find the path and had to take the main road. Of course, I did see where the path came into the town on the other side!



Ok, this castle, built on the river, was between 2 neighboring "tribes" and had no friends. They had to leave via the river at high tide. It was from the 14th century and built of slate which is plentiful in this area. I sense the harsh conditions and violent lifestyles when I visit them. I can't fathom being a woman during that time - a beast of burden, for sure. THis one didn't have a tour, darn it all. I love the tours because so much information is shared and I know so little about that period.

The little villages I cycle through are right off a postcard. Window boxes with flowers, stone walkways and iron gates, and lots of children out and about.

Tonight I'm camped in a large circular cutout closed off except for the opening where I pulled in. It appears that this may be a pit of some sort where soil or rocks or gravel is dug out of the hill. I can't be seen from the road and I don't think anyone will need any soil tonight, so it seems a good place to be. Plus, I'm sheltered from any wind there may be tonight. After my supper of their version of Pasta Sides with broccoli (and my own added to it) I wandered up the hill further to a big field and for a moment had wished I'd cycled a bit further and camped up there...until I felt the wind, and then was glad I didn't.

I was biking along and saw this little stand of eggs for sale and couldn't resist buy a 1/2 doz.


Right from the farmer on the honor system...love it! So I boiled up 4 of them tonight for lunch tomorrow and a salad tomorrow night. Before my AT hike I researched about storing eggs out of the fridge and found fresh eggs can be stored on the counter for up to a month. So I travel with fresh eggs quite often in my pack or on my bike. And here eggs are not usually in the fridge, they're just sitting on a shelf. See, they know they don't need refrigeration.

Oh, I took this pic of Welsh for y'all to see. I met a guy today that explained some of the letters: dd= th as in the, f=v, but ff=f....and that's all I remember:)


BagLady



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Can't Sit Still

Thursday, June 21st
Fishguard, Wales



9:00 am. Rain all night, dry morning, forecast for heavy rains this afternoon. What would you do? Been trying to decide whether to cycle on or stay put. If I cycle on, I know I'll get wet and have to probably set up in the rain. If I stay out, I stay dry, have bathroom and showers and a little store.... and WIFI! Haven't done much cycling this week but after getting drenched coming into Bantry last week, I'm hesitant to cycle out into the heavy rain again. This trip isn't about where I'm going, it's about where I am. And today, and likely tomorrow I'm on a cliff overlooking Fishguard Bay and the Irish Sea. Nothing wrong with that. I have a new book to start, 13 more books on tape, postcards to write when I find a new pen. Lots to do. And a nap to take! Don't forget that!! And whole it's dry this morning I may take a wander. And do some yoga. I'm on "holiday" and I might as well act like it;). Will I ever find my Type B personality? I know she's in there somewhere. No goals today. No doing, just being.






5:00 pm. How things change! I did some walking along the cliffs and when I got back, I checked the weather report again. It was do nice out it was hard not to be cycling. New report. Lighter showers expected. Asked the guy if I could have my 11 euro back so I could cycle on and he said okay. So I packed up and left about noon. New missing item: the buff I got on Nepal. Hope it's tucked in some corner of my gear. I love that buff. Bluebearee and Apple Pie know how long I hunted for "the right one"! It was a tedious and painful search through the many market stalls in Namache Bazaar. I hope she turns up tonight. (found her in my daypack pocket...that little devil!:))

Back up that hill. You remember "that hill". Why they're never as bad as they appear they will be going down, I've yet to figure out. Was true on the AT. In the evening it always seed like a long steep descent to the shelter and in the back of my mind I was dreading going back up in the morning...but alas, it was quick and easy!







Quaint cottages here!

I'm feeling a lot like a hiker tonight. A happy hiker. Ya know, the one for whom the skies break just long enough for ya to get a tent up and your gear and you inside BEFORE the down pour renews. The happy hiker eating cold tuna from the packet with stale bread and loving it. The happy hiker who has not 1 but 2 chocolate pudding cakes for dessert. Yup! Warm, dry, fed! Oh, does it get any simpler than that?

I am camped 15 ft from the side of the road in a bend of a steep hill out of Moylegrove, up the coast from Fishguard. This little nook has a gate leading to the Coastal Path, a National Park in Wales. Yes, good hiking here. And today I met one and saw two "walkers". Some camp, others go from B&B to B&B. That's what this guy was doing while photographing the coastline.

I didn't get 50 ft down the road when a cycle tourist headed the other way stops by. Lee Johnstone is cycling around the world too. Right now though he's doing the coastline of Great Britain to train and to pass the time until he can go to the Olympics in August. We may try and meet up later depending on where we are. He wanted to cycle with me...or me with him down to southern Wales, but I told him I'm too slow to cycle with anyone and I'm just getting my solo sealed under me.

So the rains did come but all is well. What was I afraid of this morning? No more waiting for rain. When it's dry, start pedaling. BTW, new coat was fabulously warm and dry. Happy, happy, happy.

Tonight I'm starting a new book, Lovely Bones, and going to sleep early. Not much else to do, but that's okay with me. I'm never bored when I'm around:)

Oh, and for all the quilters I know, tomorrow I'm off to Lampeter where there is a quilting museum I plan to peruse. Will share.

Another note. This hill where I'm sleeping is so steep and tight several cars have gotten stuck spinning their tires and had to back down. I can see headlights flashing into my tent might be an issue. Oh ya and one car gave me a friendly "toot toot" as he passed my tent. Warm, friendly folks here (too)!!!

Nearly soggy BagLady


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Heike, Philippe, Lena, and Felix

Saturday, Sunday, Monday, Tuesday June 16th thru 19th
Cork, Ireland
all the weather, all the seasons...and lots of rain! Until today which was dry and sunny and lifted the spirits.

We're heading to Cork today, about 65 km away and we promised Heike and family we'd be in tonight. It was an Irish day of cycling: lots of steep hills and constant temperature shifts as the we climbed and descended...Buff up, hood up, jacket zipped...then everything reversed. Lost my gloves I fear back at the library in Bantry I presume. I have rain mitts (silicone hand covers) that keep the chill at bay while I'm cycling...and the do a pretty good job of it. Just putting them on warms me up. Little touches make a big difference in managing my thermostat:)

One thing I've noticed is that the old manor houses seem to dot the countryside in either peach or pink or yellow. Bright spots on a grey horizon. The other thing is the smell of Ireland that dominates: the smell of manure. This is farming country after all.



We were biking past a DIY home store and I wanted to stop and see what they're selling for appliances, etc. Everything seems to be smaller here. Front load washers were selling for 300 euros...that would be about $400, half the price of back home. They had small fridges and stoves. Just what I would need to outfit a cottage home when that day arrives that I really settle down. I'm being drawn to owning horses again as I pet them by the side of the road. They were such a part of my childhood and I miss the contact. Would love to test my hand at raising a foal someday perhaps.

We hit the "burbs" of Cork at about 3 pm and had to wind our way through the city. Our maps are pretty useless but strangers offer the best option of getting suggestions of routes. We're never able to follow the directions all the way, often missing a turn ...take a left at the "take out office"...and having to ask again. Makes for wonderful conversation!

What a multi-lingual house we've landed in! Heike speaks German and English. Philippe speaks French and English. And the children understand all the languages because Mom speaks to them mostly in German and Dad speaks to them in French...and they respond in English! I don't know how those little brains do it, but they do.


The kids are great...good parenting pays off. They loved Blaze and spent quite a bit of time riding her around and around the cul de sac where they live. The other hit was my iPhone and some of the games on it. Felix spent 30 minutes one evening working on Trace where he had to draw lines for the little guy to travel on and not bump into the obstacles. What tenacity! Lena would spend quite a bit of her time outdoors running around the neighborhood with her friends and come in with the rosiest cheeks and biggest grin. It was nice to see children outside playing and not sitting with their faces glued to a sceen (other than my iPhone...oops...bad influence I am!)

I'm pretty exhausted tonight after traveling by bus for most the day and having to take drugs so I didn't get sick.

I'm hoping I can stay awake enough to catch ya'll who's not on Facebook with the news.

I'm traveling alone now. Fuat decided to fly to Oregon and bike across the US. He wasn't having any fun and didn't know if bike touring was for him. I think I had something to do with his unhappiness although he shared nothing with me in that vain. He has a way of dropping bombs on me. This time I was better prepared to handle it. I, also, found touring together difficult. I'm not having as much fun as I usually do and I'm not sure why. But I decided to try going on alone and see if I can figure this all out. I've always wanted to do this so let's just see if in reality it's as much fun as it sounded. The difference in cultures (although not dramatic) has an effect. I often have a hard time understanding people and get tired of having to ask them to repeat themselves so I smile and nod at whatever was said.

Back to the rest of the weekend. Sunday we all went out to lunch at the market by the harbor and tried to bike into the center of town, but the rains beat us down. Philippe took us in by car later so we could get some supplies. That's when I started the hunt for a real rain coat. I've got to figure out how to be warmer or I'll be hopping a plane home too:) And I did find one that I think will work well AND is cute. Critical, of course!


I"m just too tired to continue or the drugs are still in me, but I can't type another letter.

Goodnight, BagLady



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Hanging Around Bantry

Friday, June 15th
Dunmanway, Ireland (65 km west of Cork...we may get there yet:)!)

18 miles and didn't get started (the 2nd time) til 4:30 because we were waiting for the rain to stop!!!!

And that about sums up today.

Packing up and leaving the hostel early 'cause we couldn't get any coffee nearby...then off to breakfast at a little bakery and cafe. An Irish vegetarian breakfast of baked beans, sauteed mushrooms, grilled tomatoes, and two very fried eggs with toast. It was tasty...I was surprised. Then I wandered into some stores to learn about rain gear and a new metric for waterproofness. 8000mmH2O was one coat. I think mine's around 2000, if that. If I can find a Goretex that I like (that's important...not just dryness, but likeability, too) I'll get it. I need to stay drier and this is a rainy summer for all of Europe I'm a-hearin'.

Another problem is my Keen bike sandals are falling apart. The stitching is breaking away on the heel strap.



This morning I attempted a fix using dental floss and a needle, but it didn't hold up walking around Bantry today. So on my long list of things that need to get addressed in Cork is taking them to a shoe repair shop and sewn professionally. Fuat's gonna have his sandals glued there too.

So then, in Bantry to pass the time, we went to the library. Felt like a hiker for sure then, but didn't use the internet because they wanted to charge me. Not paying for it. Against my religion! The woman there told me that the organic cafe had free wifi. Two birds with one stone: free wifi and good food!


So after a couple of hours in the library catching up on the Irish news, we headed off to eat again. Can't do that too much, but I'm trying to keep the portions small during the day. Very hard to pedal in the position with a full stomach. Just doesn't work and feels awful. Then we got brave and ventured out of town because it seemed to be clearing up. Nope. Wrong. One mile down the road, the skies opened up and we headed back. Not doing it. Not biking out in the rain. Let's wait til 6 when the library closes and see what it's doing then. Worse case, we'll just bike out of town and set up camp. I checked the weather map on my free wifi and saw the weather pattern. A second bout of rain was coming after the clearing mid afternoon. Let's make our break around 4 and see if we can get some miles behind us before the next cloud burst. So off we headed. Oh, why is always so hard to get started? My legs are working too hard. But we managed to bike nearly 3 hours and got to the next town.

We're camped in the field of a trotter track. They were nice and left the bathroom unlocked for us., too.

Ooops! My tent is leaking. Rain is dripping on me!! I think this thing is on it's last legs. We usually use Fuat's new REI Quarter Dome. But it's wet from when we packed it up yesterday. I really like it, but it would be too heavy for backpacking. I hope I don't have to buy a new tent on this trip. i had to resurface the tent floor before we left. Guess I should have resiliconed the whole thing! Silnylon must have a limited shelf-life. Anyone know what it is?

So here we sit, listening to it rain...AGAIN. At least we're mostly dry and warm. We'll make it through another night and then we'll be spending a few days with new friends in Cork. Can't wait to meet Heike:)!

I'm testing the 2 theories tonight. 1) wool is warm when wet and 2) clothes dry in the sleeping bag. I wore my long johns when we rode down off the mountain yesterday and they got drenched. They didn't dry out over night and I kept them separate from my dry clothes in the pannier. So tonight I have soggy long johns on for sleep wear...hence the tests. So far, so good. I'm warm and I think they're almost dry.

I must say we're getting much better at reading our 2 maps. But it does take a team effort for us to get anywhere. It will be a real test of our map skills getting into Cork and to Heike's house tomorrow. I have the address but my map app wants to always put us on the main roads. There's a walking option but I can't always get it to route it right. I know there's much I don't understand about this map app and learning on the road without being able to google it is challenging. And of course, there are no instructions that I can find build into the app. Anyone else ever used Sygic Maps Apps?

Enough for tonight. I'm ready for sleep.

Oh, dinner, you ask? A salad of cukes, tomatoes, snow peas, and cheddar cheese tossed with oil and vinegar. And humus bought at the farmers market with brown bread. Then spelt brownies and chocolate cake for dessert. Fuat spends his time biking thinking about what we'll have for dinner and I'm glad he does! I'm the one who always makes sure we have something for dessert:)

And an update on the itching 'cause I know ya'll worry about me...talked to a pharmacist today and he said some of my itching was due to midgie bites (that's the no-see-ums I was talking about.) He said they can last up to a week. I got an antihistamine ointment and it's calming everything down. Much better than a pill. Do we have that? Better idea.

Ok, now...goodnight and hugs and love to everyone!

Bug-Bitten BagLady

p.s. got several albums of Roy Orbison on my iPod...he's got the best voice!!!!

p.p.s have been listening to the book Wild on my iPod. Read it! That girl can write AND she has a good story to tell. It's as much about her life before the trail as it is about hiking. She deserves the recognition she's getting!



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