Up and Over

Jan 12, 2012
After Haast Pass

I did it! I cycled over Haast Pass! It wasn't that high, but it was very steep. It took me nearly 2 hours to climb it and it was only a couple of kilometers up. Slow and steady...not so steady:). Lots of stopping. I kept reminding myself that I would get to the top eventually. No different than a long hike. Ya just gotta keep moving forward. Beats going to the gym!!! And my legs always feel so much stronger afterwards. Little hills always feel easier.

Tonight's view from a DoC (Dept of Conservation) campsite was so incredible that I kept thinking it was a backdrop.



The photo doesn't do it justice but I tried up capture it. It's a view back to Haast Pass.

Food today. Coffee for breakfast. Lunch was red pepper tuna with mayo and avocado in a pita and Nutella on Digestives for dessert. Orange for snack near top of pass. Tomatoes, onions, green peppers and garlic over pasta. Nutella cookies for dessert. And a couple of swigs of my Christmas wine. Amazing how well that keeps. I'm stuffed!

I talked with this couple of locals here at the campground about Fiordland and biking there. First he said the road from Te Anau out to Milford Sound is the most beautiful road in NZ and I should bike it to appreciate it. Second he said the road south from Wanaka, although a shorter route to Queenstown was more beautiful yet hillier. I think in going to take it. I'm feeling a bit cocky having just come over Haast Pass today:)

G'night,

Pumped Up BagLady


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Still Heading South

Jan 8th,9th and 10th
Fox Glacier
Hwy 6 north of Haast



When I pulled into Fox Glacier Village the morning of the ninth, a biker pulled up while I was chatting with a couple of Brits. It was Kathleen from Ft. Collins, Colorado. She had taken the bus from Franz Josef because of the 3 steep hills. She's biking with her boyfriend, Adrian, and another friend, Ron.

(I don't care what anyone says, these effing sand flies are getting into my tent even though its all zipped up!)

While having coffee and sharing stories we made plans to cycle out to the lake for dinner. Then off to find accommodations for the night. Ended up at the same hostel, which was fun. These folks are in my age group unlike the other cyclists I meet. Nice change.

After settling in we cycled out to see the famous Fox Glacier. This one we could get pretty close to and had good views.



Because the weather for the 9th was heavy rains, I decided to book in for 2 nights. The weather actually was forecasting for a couple of days of rain so they were staying 2 nights and then taking the bus south to Haast during the 2nd rainy day. I couldn't decided what to do. Sometimes I have such indecision. I frustrate myself. I really want to pedal. The bus is a hassle if it will even take my bike. And there were already their 3 bikes going. I decided to stay put and cycle out after the weather improved.

And rain it did. All day. Non stop. But what fun a hot tub is sitting in the rain!

So awoke this morning...the day they are taking the bus...the day the forecast is for more rain the yesterday...the day the forecast says 100% chance of rain starting early in the morning. Awoke to no rain. Nada. Zippo. What's up? Do I ride? Why not? So I pack up and join L, A, and R down at the bus stop to say goodbye. Probably wont see them again until I come visit in Ft Collins...and I will:)




Then, as I'm riding out of town there's an electronic sign that says the road is closed near Makarora. This can't be happening! That's about 115 miles from here 3-4 days riding...at my slow pace. There is only 1 road down this west coast. One road. And between rain storms, bridge wash outs and now a slip (landslide onto road), I'm having one hell of a time biking down it.

I stopped at the only cafe along the road today and a group of people gathered there off a bus said we know about you:). They were on the bus K, A, and R had been on to Haast and had passed me on the road. Since the bus couldn't get through past Haast, they were going back to Fox Glacier. They also told me a bit more about the road closure. That it was a slip and that they weren't allowing bikes through and that it should be open in a couple of days. Hope they let me keep biking closer since it'll be a few days before I get near there. There's a mountain pass, Haast Pass - 563 meters, to cross first.






Snuggled in my tent at a boat launch to Lake Moeraki watching the hundreds of sand flies swarm the mesh and listening to the rain patter on the tent. But today...the day of the awful forecast...was a beautiful day for biking with no rain until now. Perfect.
I'm done with forecasts and weather maps. I'm going back to using a weather tree! If it's wet, it's raining. If it's white, it's snowing. If it's leaning to one side, it's windy...and if it's all lit up, the sun is shining! Never fails me!

Friday, Jan 11th
Haast New Zealand

The weather tree this morning said RAIN. I'm always amazed how I can sleep 10+ hours and still feel like I could sleep some more. Of course, the rain pattering the tent sure helped. But when it stopped I had to force myself to take advantage of it to get going. Didn't know how long it would last. Well...it lasted ALL day! And what a stupendous, glorious, fabulous, breathtaking day it was!



The morning started with black swans with orange beaks floating on the lake. Then it continued with awesome coastal views at every curve. I even took time for some beach yoga while waves were crashing ashore. And sun. All day sun! And I'm paying for it. A wan in a store even mentioned how brown I was. A bit too much today. Sun screen tomorrow. Ok.


If you've been following my posts through the many crazy trips I've been doing, younger remember my comment regents cycling in our Pacific Northwest a couple of summers ago about the men were always driving the RVs? Well I've noticed just the opposite occurrence here. Most often women are driving. So often that it makes me wonder if there's a rental car discount if the woman drives. Nice to see though:)

I'm heading into the Southern Alps again. I was there, in a northern section, when I rode down from Arthur's Pass. Tomorrow I head over Haast Pass. It'll be slow going, I know. But I want to do it. I'm no wus. I'm just slow:).

Keeping up with food notes (I forget), today was coffee and a banana for breakfast, hummus and whole wheat pita and chocolate for lunch, and steamed cauliflower and pasta with Parmesan cheese and Nutella over Digestives (a biscuit/cookie). In between I had some candy and a packaged ice cream cone. I'll admit some days the meals are mostly snacks. Yesterday was like that. The sand flies make it hard to sit out and cook in the evening. I bug doped up tonight. But now I have to sleep in it a couple of nights before I get to shower it off. Yuck! I actually put it on at lunch today and that's probably why I burned. Just figured that out. I haven't burned in a long time. I know the Kiwis have told me the sun's different down here. But I haven't been burning...just my nose...and that I lotion up.

Tonight I'm back in the mountains near the Haast River with these peaks in every direction. Behind me are three incredible waterfalls! This sure beats a motel, hostel, or campground. Yup. Life is good! I can think of only one thing that would make this night better;)




Burnt BagLady




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Take Time to See the Beauty

Jan 6



Closest I've ever been to being taken out! Holy crap! (And I don't usually swear but...)

Heading down a wide open road. Good visibility both directions. Flat. See truck coming up on my tail. See truck ahead. Courteously, I take to the grassland stop to let them by. There is no shoulder, just white line then grass. I'm off the road maybe 10 ft. Of course, it's a law of physics, the trucks meet at ME! And my truck pulls left off the road!!!! Are you kidding me???? He missed me by a foot or two! That's all!!!!

There is a near washout where this highway parallels a river. So trucks on this side are whizzing past with rocks too trying to shore things up. And there are milk trucks hauling to Invercall on the southern tip because they can't get up to Hokitika to the milk processing plant. A lot if large farms are having to dump the milk.

But other than those trucks, the road is empty. Eerily empty. Pleasantly empty. My own road. So nice for cycling (when two trucks are passing right by my side:)).

I've been struggling with sightseeing things down here but I'm so not a tourist. I'm a traveller. I don't want to see what others are paying to see. I want to see the wonder that they are missing as they hustle from one tourist spot to another. And there is beauty everywhere if we just slow down and take the time to look. For example, right now I have a site no one else has ever seen. It's in this moment as I look back across _______ Lake to the glaciers to the south. And there are low lying clouds, an absolutely tranquil lake, birds chirping, and not a car on the road. Mine! All mine!!! And it's free!!!! Because I took the time to stop and look and listen and soak it up.


Monday, Jan 8th
Just shy of Fox Glacier Village

Yesterday I cycled into Franz Josef Village, did town chores, then ran into Ben and Laura who were taking a zero and sightseeing. The said the hike up to the glacier was amazing. I said a guide in town had told me about glow worms in a tunnel up the hill and I was going to check it out. I did. But someone on the way there said they were a long way down the tunnel and when I got up there and saw how small this tunnel was, I knew there was no way I would go in there. That's the only place I've ever had a panic attack. In a black tunnel in a science museum. What an awful feeling. Don't ever want to feel that again.

Back in town I decided to check out a backpackers that gave a 25% discount if you biked in. Great. I took the second cheapest dorm room because the cheapest was all booked. I walked into this cramped stuffy room with luggage all over the place and only a top bunk left and I knew I'd made a mistake. I'd rather be in my tent. Can I cancel? Lets see if I gave something else. For a $1.40 more I have a 5 bed dorm room with only one other in it. Great! Whew! And she never showed up so I had the room all to myself.

The shower felt fabulous...as usual. And after a wander about town and the realization that I wasn't willing to pay those restaurant prices to eat alone, I went back to the hostel and cooked up my eggs and my pasta and broccoli. And I brought cooked food with me today.

Ok. Today I made a glacier run. It was beautiful but didn't compare to those in the Canadian Rockies. Couldn't get up to it. But it was a nice hike. And the waterfalls were dramatic!






Knew I had a short hilly ride today to Fox Glacier Village and after the hike to the glacier it was early afternoon before I really left. What a grind! Where are my climbing legs? Oh I kept wanting to stop. So slow. And I had decided I'd just go to before the village to camp tonight and then plan to stay the next 2 nights in town during this next storm. So that's where I am tonight. Camped. But it feels like the storm is arriving early. The winds are picking up and gusting. I sure don't feel I'll stay dry if the skies open with these winds. Could be an interesting night. Why do I do this to myself? I think I like the challenge of seeing what I can cope with. And I'll get to town tomorrow and dry out. After the last big climb. (That's really why I quit here. And besides there's a great view of this river. Too bad it's the lumpiest camping spot I think I've ever had.)

Add to that I don't have the warmest of my gear. Just a 50* bag and it will be in the 40s tonight for sure. It's 5 pm and I'm in my wool thermals, a jacket with hood over them and wool sox. Not much more to add. Taking things to the edge it feels like. And liking what I find there:) I'll enjoy tonight more than last night in that comfy hostel even though I'll be cold, sleep on lumps, and possibly wet. But that shower now...that was nice:)

Food today: cowboy coffee at hostel, then a Danish from a bakery.

Hummus and crackers for lunch with dark chocolate for dessert. (Haven't found an organic chocolate yet. Cadbury's just doesn't cut it.)

Hard boiled egg and a banana for dinner. Maybe a precooked pasta snack later.

BagLady




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Get Real! Seriously???

Saturday, Jan 5th
On the banks of the Whataroa River



Yup, I'm on a different river. Ya just never know what a day will bring and that's sure true on the road. Got up fairly early, totally perplexed about what to do. Got no answers in my sleep. Couldn't just lie in my bag. Tired of not moving, not going someplace. Needed a plan. Got packed up and headed back up this rocky road I had come down. It was a chilly morning and I had 2 small creeks to cross. Maybe Blaze will just go right through them and I won't have to get off and push. The first one yes...but not the second. Brrr, that water's cold. Refreshing way to begin the day! Further up the lane I see a guy in a truck. So what's the story! Gonna be Tuesday, optimistically. (Or longer, I'm thinking.). Then he mentions that copters have been giving lifts over the river at 5:00 for $50 NZ. ($40 US). Fair deal, I think. Ya, they'll sling your bike underneath. OMG! Is that safe, I think. Good to know. Now more to ponder. How the hell will they sling this top-heavy loaded bike under a helicopter and land it on the other side and not damage it? I feel incapable of making this decision. Blaze is just too valuable to take these kind of chances. I'll hitch back to a town and either stay thee til the bridge opens or hitch to the top of the pass leading to the other coast...and who knows where I'll end up. Not optimal. But beats sitting here. Wish I had someone to bounce ideas off of. Bruce. My buddy. Maybe he can help me think about this. And I have service. Yippee. He says Go For It! They know what they're doing. It'll be fine. Ok. Deep breath. Ok. Lets go back down to the river and see who's there. Who's that coming down the road? Ben and Laura. We're gonna try to get a copter lift. Me too! Lets go get on the noon flight!! So down we go. Look there's a laundry truck and a copter picking up bags of laundry. Can you take us and our bikes over? Sure $50. Deal. But how's this going to work? Oh we'll put bags of linen in the bottom of the rope netting bag and stack your bikes on it. Sure. Is thus gonna work? Guess we'll find out! Ok. All loaded. OMG! The load is unbalanced! The bikes are tumbling! Everything is all jumbled! How will he drop that down without damaging our bikes?





We're all white as sheets standing there watching our prized possessions...our only possessions...get dangled from the bottom of a helicopter and flown across a river! Only in the movies! What will we find when we get over? Now our turn. A helicopter ride! Yippee! OMG it's lifting off! This is fabulous! I took a video. What a view from up there. In my next life I want to be a copter pilot. Yup!




There are our bikes. They've taken them out of the bag. Nothing major looks wrong. Laura's has a rear fender issue that got resolved. Ben's gear bag got ripped. And one of my mirrors broke off. Not bad considering what we thought was happening. Not bad at all. What a crazy exciting day! One of the many highlights I'm having down here:)))

So we cycled into the small village of Hari Hari for a celebratory lunch. Fish and chips! Yum. We high fived! We clicked bottles! We were pretty ecstatic! We're on the other side! We made it!! Time to pedal to the glaciers. And so we did. But not together. I'm too slow to bike with others but that's okay. They don't need me around and I like my alone time too. But it was fun having others to share that copter ride with.

So tonight I'm camped by another river at a Glacial Flights place. With the view of the snow capped mountains behind me. And a quickly glowing river in front. Idyllic. And a yummy dinner. "Mommy salad" my daughter, Dana, calls it. It's when I just put everything I have on hand into the mix. Tonight it was: red pepper, cucumber, tuna fish, apple, nuts and dried fruit, raw broccoli, garlic, cheese, mayo ('cause I lost my olive oil bottle...maybe it fell out) and vinegar. Oh ya! Delish! On a hard roll. To die for! And Nutella for dessert. Does it get any better?

WHAT A DAY!!!!!!!!!! Whodathunk????

Bubbling BagLady


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Down By the River

Friday, January 4th
On the banks of the Wanganui River
South Island, NZ



Well that plan was pretty much a flop. Got down to the bridge to find a swiftly flowing river and a major construction site with really no way to even chat anyone up. I decided to wander up the river along this back road always. The Wanganui Valley trek starts here...at least it used to. Completely obliterated. Roadway ends with a cliff to the river bed.



After I set my tent up back here, a quarter of a mile from the bridge, I saw a helicopter going over and coming back. Over and back. The road back is quite rocky with a couple of creek crossings so I rode and walked back to where I could see what was going in. They're moving supplies if some sort across. The other side is quite cutoff from things. I don't think I want them to sling Blaze from the bottom of a copter and besides they've got more important things to attend to than an American touring around.

So now I'm back in my tent at about 5:30. It's actually hot in here and some of those nasty sand flies managed to get in too. They're wicked. Remind me of black flies in the Adirondacks.

And now I don't know what to do. The information I've gotten from a couple of sources is that Tuesday is the outlook. 4 nights away. I may have enough food for that long. But do I just hang out here reading and painting and napping? Or do I get a lift the 40 miles back to Hokitika tomorrow and wait it out there? I'll spend less money here. I'm already here. Oh I don't know. This is quite a predicament. I met one of the guys driving these big rigs so I'm pretty sure I can get a hitch to town, then back here perhaps.

Swat. Ouch. Slap. Scratch. How'd all these buggers get in here? Raid!! You'll all be dead! I'll win this!! But it's so bad out there, I won't be cooking tonight. Tunafish it is! I don't think staying here is the best idea. Ben and Laura headed back to the nearby lake. Course I don't know that it's any less buggy there. Maybe by the ocean with the breeze. It's sure hot all zipped up in here.

Frustrated BagLady



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Heading to the Washed Out Bridge

January 3rd
Coastal Highway 6
South of Ross
South Island, New Zealand



Yup I made it out of Hokitika! And it was a tough decision. I emailed Moa and Kiwi to see what they thought I should do: go north, go east, wait for repairs. Every time I looked at the map, nothing in any direction but south had much interest to me. I want to see the glaciers! I want to see Fiordland! Going around was a hard enough for folks with cars, but by bicycle practically impossible. And I had no desire to catch a bus. I want to bike!!! So this morning I awoke with the answer: bike down to the river and see what happens. Take enough food so you can camp out until its repaired. Why not? It's only suppose to be a couple of days before the have a temporary bridge in. So that's what I'm doing!!!

And after I stocked up at the grocery store -and am I stocked up!- I met a couple cycling south: Ben and Laura. They just met 5 days ago and started traveling together. Laura's a young Canadian woman (Toronto) who's been on the road since last summer having cycled down the west coast of the US into Mexico before coming here. Ben's a Brit who came here for a couple of months, like me. So I asked them their plan and told them mine. They hadn't decided and were headed for coffee to talk it over. See ya down the road, maybe!

And I did. They caught me down the road. (Everyone catches me:)). My positive attitude that I'd figure a way over the water inspired them to go for it. Love it. Further down the road I see a guy loaded coming my way. He said he'd come across the river. How??? Helicopter!!! How much? Free!...for an interview. It was a news copter. That's not going to happen twice. We'll just have to see what happens for me.

This guy has cycled tens of thousands miles. Amazing. Passes of Peru. Loves to push himself. He had some good stories.


I'm camped on a high point over the road with views of the coast (and sounds of copters overhead...lots of activity). And this annoying bird that's not afraid of me. Stones. Screams. Keeps coming back. I don't think it's a Kea. I've been warned they eat cars and bicycles. I seemed to have scared him away for awhile.

And that's all the news for today. And another glorious day in NZ it has been!!

Oh, I do want to mention all the caring drivers who bothered to stop and make sure I knew the road was closed. So thoughtful. One even offered me a lift in his truck, but it was such a beautiful day and I was in no rush, I declined graciously. The world is so full of kind people. Please stop listening to the news. It's tainting your perception of reality. Get out and meet some strangers TODAY! You won't regret it.

P.S. it's 7:04:). Some of you know what that means. For the rest, the time, when I check it, is most often 4 minutes after the hour. It's almost creepy how frequently it happens!

Roar of distant waves crashing to shore
Faint birds chirping
Grey light of cloudy setting sun
Quiet closed road
Remote
Alone
Calm
Unafraid
Restful
Rich
Blessed
Introspective



And I have to keep reminding myself "I'm in New Zealand!" Today's views remind me of Idaho without the shoreline.

Optimistic BagLady

Rained Out

Jan 1 and 2, 2013
Hokitika, South Island, NZ




I was quite sleepy not wanting to get up, just pull the bag over my head and sleep some more. And I did just that...cause I can:)

When I finally awoke, I found a wet tent, wet pants to put on, and a wet food bag. The ground cloth is a touch too wide I think and is catching the rain, pooling it underneath. Must fix that.

But the weather broke and I packed and headed out. But as I continued south, the rain picked up. And it's a bit chilly too..high 40's, low 50s, I'm guessing. I was beginning to mentally explore the idea of a hostel, or backpacker as they're called here. But you know me...hate to spend a nickel on a place to sleep. But I could use some wifi and always like a shower. And I like exploring a town. But I do like to camp too. Oh, let's just check some prices anyways. One place was nice but outside of town. Nah. $29/night. Wifi: $2 for 20 mb, I think.

The guy who owned the BBH in town met me at the door. $22 BBH rate and wifi was $5 for 100 gb for 24 hours. Sold! Mixed dorm room is fine with me...after sleeping with 9 men spooned together in a shelter on the AT, this is cake.

And as I listened to the rain slam the windows last night and the wind howl, I couldn't help this feeling of panic "what's getting wet?" I've camped in a lot of rain, but these past few days have been the worst I've seen. Torrential. Took out a section of bridge about an hour's drive south of here. Took trees down in Arthur's Pass, the road across the South Islandto Christchurch. Right now the only direction out is back north where I came from. Hmmm?

I'm staying again tonight at the hostel and perhaps tomorrow too. I'm tempted to wait for the bridge to be fixed do I can keep heading south. I may have to pass up the Kepler Track to keep close to schedule of getting back to Wellington by the 30th.

It's still pouring outside. Pelting the windows. Sure glad to be inside. And hostels are such fun:). Mostly young kids. Most interesting and independent travelers. All kids should travel the world in their 20s. It's a great foundation for life. And what moxie it develops.



Oh ya, had a tour today of the flooding. I was wandering town and saw this woman with an ice cream cone...on a cold and rainy day...come on! She was a local and offered to take me on a tour: mouth of the river and the boat that's run aground, flooding of the river over the road, up to the high spot for a view. Helen was a woman who'd had a long abusive marriage that she left 8 years ago. She's found a good man and happiness now. Thanks for sharing a but of your world with me



A Soggy BagLady...again





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Closing Out 2012

December 29th
Nelson, South Island NZ



I finally got to sleep after 10 pm. No more Energy drinks after 10 am. Around 5:30, I heard voices. I don't like to hear voices when I'm stealth camped. There's not suppose to be people around. These were young voices. Guys and a girl. Light. Laughing. I couldn't see out that side so I don't know where they were. They just quieted down and I went back to sleep. Awoke at a more reasonable hour...7 am...and while out taking care of business, I hear a gun shot. Holy shit! Is it hunting season here?

What a wet night! Nothing dried in the tent and there were puddles of water under my panniers. I used all my cloths: bandannas, towel, and sarong to mop things up. Much soggier than last summer. Not sure why. Smaller space is part of it. With my 2 person, double vestibule tent, my panniers stay outside giving me more room. I'm sure I'll get a rhythm going and figure out how to negotiate the challenges.

Packed up. Hauled the gear through the gate. Pushed the bike through. A flat! Back tire. I had just put a new tube in there because it was flat after the flight. I didn't check the tire though. And this morning there was a thorn on the inside...only...nothing outside...no hole or mark. So I used my tweezers and finally got it pulled out, patched the tube, and it's rolling so much faster. I probably was mostly flat most of the day. Oops.

I roughly knew this road had two hills on it and I only crossed one yesterday so...the big one must be ahead. The one that on a profile map was HUGE. Dread. Yesterday was hard enough. Oh well. It's morning. I'm refreshed. Lets go. Up. Down. Down. Down. No hill? I crossed it yesterday? Sweet!!!! So I rolled into Nelson along a delightful bicycle path along the water. And what's that green grassy park to my left? Hmmm. Tonight's campsite, perhaps. Don't want to pay for a hostel if I don't need to. Money is getting really tight. Having to watch every penny. NZ is not cheap.

Made a To Do List for today. First, get cash. Down to last $5. What? Unable to process? Again. Smaller amount. No go. Ok. This is not good. Can't view my account online and now can't access funds. Yikes! That makes the stomach roll a bit. Go to Internet cafe. Pay $4 for 30 minutes. Skype credit union. Funds too low. Make transfer. Cards ok. Go back to same ATM. No go. Arrghh! Try a different ATM. In luck! Flush for now.

Now what about a hotspot for my devices so I can have Internet anywhere. Tech shop. No can do with iPhone and iPad. Need laptop. Also found out that my 3G iPad doesn't seem to have a SIM card slot. Could someone let me know if a Wifi + 3G iPad (Verizon) has a SIM card slot? Or did I not get what I ordered? And I'm too far away to fix it. There are no Apple stores here. And things in the States aren't the same in the rest of the world. Not going to worry about that one.

If you aren't seeing updates it's because I can't find wifi. Maybe I'll have to go back to journaling on my old phone that has a NZ SIM card. It's got limited phone, text, and data allowance... But I could upload I think. If I have the app in there. Too much to think about.

Had a pleasant thing happen. I was sitting in Starbucks (you get 30 min with a purchase) checking mail, and my iPhone that's turned onto airplane mode rings! What's this! It's Avery Facetiming me. What a surprise. Turns out the credit union supervisor trying to resolve my login issue called her trying to get me. Since she's on the account, he was able to relay info about it to me. They had changed it to emailing a code. But when I tried to log in to see if it would work...it went right in! Yay!!! shhh. Don't tell them they turned off the new security. At least for now:))

Did all my errands and decided to camp tonight so I pedaled back to that park. Lovely spot. Gorgeous Japanese gardens where I'm hanging out now. So peaceful. Not cycling on today. Got a better offer. The guy I met a couple of days ago in Picton called and asked if I'd like a lift over some of these hills since he's having to drive this way to check out a boat motor. Of course i said "Sure:)". Maybe I'll get to hear the rest of the boat story. Needs a new motor? Hmmm.

It's getting chilly as the sun is clouded over. Guess I'll go scope out a spot for tonight's sleep.

Zzzzz:)



December 31st
Kumara, South Island NZ



(Yup thats a bridge that is shared by cars and...TRAINS!!!)

It's been a whirlwind couple of days. And such fun! Bruce picked me up in Nelson as I watched the rain pour heavily down, glad I wasn't going to be cycling in it. We took a quick tour up to Motueka where he has to measure something and then up to Kaiteriteri beach, voted the best beach of New Zealand. It was golden sand in a large cove with huge rock islands and turquoise water...but way to crowded for my tastes. Guess word got out! We spotted a smaller cove and looked for a road down to it. When we found it, there were signs everywhere about Private Road...Residents Only.. And Bruce proceeded to drive on down. My kind a guy:). I'm always accused of saying "But they don't mean me!" This was more my style: cozy and quiet. Got my feet wet on one coast, sorta.

(See photo at beginning of blog)

Then we drove on over to the West Coast and I got to see the area I wasn't biking. There's always a bitter sweetness for me when I'm driving over an area that I had expected to bike. I miss a lot of it, sadly so, because you just don't get the view. But I have lots of NZ to see and I got to bike an area I wouldn't have otherwise...you'll hear that story later.

First I have to tell you about Joe. This is his front gate.



Are ya getting an idea of this guy? He's a treasure! Bruce met him when he stopped in after seeing his gate. He's gotten to know him and stops by when he's in the area. Supposedly there's a boat motor he wants to buy but listening to the conversation between those two, they didn't really discuss that transaction. Joe collects antique Fords and I got to see his collection. I think there were 8 of them in mint condition, a couple that had never been refurbished. He even had a racer that he started up for me. After sharing a cup of tea we continued my guided tour of the area.



Besides being a competitive sailor on some 40ft something, he's an endurance athlete, I guess you'd call it. They have this annual event called the Coast to Coast. (You should google it.). I got to see the layout of this:

DAY 1
3 k run from beach
70 km bike uphill into the Southern Alps
26 km run up a rocky river bed

DAY 2
18 km cycle
70 km kayak
70 cycle to Christchurch

And there's also a One Day event also on the same course that you have to qualify for. Bruce has done them both. I was favorably impressed:)


(Feet in the ocean on the west coast...note the need for a jacket!)

After viewing all the different transition points for this crazy competition, we continued up into a wide open valley with the river flowing madly through it and mountains all around. Due to the continued drizzle of the day, we had dinner under the bridge. But the skies did clear and I got my first viewing of the stars in the Southern Hemisphere. I felt quite lost looking up. I think I need to get a star book and see if I can learn a few of their constellations.

Oh I forgot to mention that I was also watching the temperature drop on the dash as we drove higher into the mountains. It got down to the mid 40's...but I only have my summer bag with me. Good to 50*. Yikes! Had to break out the merino wool! But I was fine. Got just the right gear...makes all the difference

Cold, crisp evening air;snow-capped mountains; nearly full moon. Good job, Bruce! Couldn't have ordered up a more spectacular night camping in the mountains of New Zealand. It's one I won't forget!



Bruce, my tour guide and trail angel!

And then a rainbow the next morning!


So I said I was going to get to bike a different area. And this was it. I was going to get pushed off of Arthur's Pass today to cycle back down to the West. Coast and continue on my journey. A sunny morning didn't last and by the time we had breakfast and I charged up my devices, I'd delayed as much as possible, and it was "sprinkling" outside when we headed up to the pass. Dark, cold, and rainy. 42*. Brrr. And it's always colder blasting down a mountain. Oh well. Now or never. Got Blaze all loaded back up hoping I hadn't left anything in the van. Pack explosion is never easy and always makes me nervous that I've forgotten something. I also had to bundle up because it was going to be a cold run. Buff under helmet, gloves with rain mitts over, pants and socks, fleece and raincoat. I'm ready.



And off I went! I had to put my arm up to block the pain of the raindrops as they pelted my face. 16% grade it said. Wheeee!!!!! Quite a scenic and spectacular ride down for a ways. But it seemed to level out sooner than I expected, and wasn't as easy as I was led to believe. I had to pedal UP some dips and dives and didn't make it all the way back out to the coast before deciding to find a campsite around 6 pm. But the views were to die for and even though we'd driven up the road, it was all different views coming down.:) The forested areas along the road were far too dense to camp in. And there are some serious pricker bushes too. Down nearer civilization I found a back road that goes back to some kind of new large pipeline. Works for me. Hardest part is usually a challenge of getting the stakes in the ground. Rocks holding them are often required.

In for the night. Will be chilly again, I can tell. But I'm sure not in the 40's

Happy New Year! I'm sipping my wine and although alone this New Year's Eve, my heart is full of gratitude for an incredible 2012 and all the new friends I've made!!!!

Started in Hawaii.
Then California and Florida visiting my girls
Home to unpack and repack
Biking Ireland, Wales, England, Holland, Germany.
Home again
Maine and hiking 100 Mile Wilderness and touring the coast
Home to pack
Singapore, Malaysia, islands of Thailand, then.....

New Zealand!!!!!

What a year! Wonder what the Universe has in store for me next year....hmmm?

Can't wait to find out!

BagLady



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I'm a Pedaling New Zealand!

December 27th
Havelock, South Island NZ

Last night I took the ferry to the South Island. Some folks I met at the grocery store near Moa's suggested I could camp at the little town park just off the ferry in town. "By the time they go to kick you off, you'll be packed up to go." It took me a little while to find it because I came in at a terminal different from what the couple said. But my new Google map app has maps available even if it doesn't show me where I am...so I was able to find the right street, pulled into the park, find a spot behind the rose garden hidden from the bright light. Windy stormy night, but I was snug and happy to be camping:)

Breakfast in town brought engaging conversation with Bruce from Auckland who "accidentally bought a boat". Hope I get to hear the rest of that story when I get up that way next month:)

The road west is a rolling road with good grade that was totally doable. And the views were to die for...green mountains and waterways...beaches and turquoise water. And hydrangea grows wild here. Picked some and attached it to Blaze's nose. Saw some other loaded cyclists...some passed me quietly...others waved from the other side. Met a guy hiking and told him he needed to look into "ultralight". He had a huge backpack, a full front pack, a large tent dangling from one hand and a satchel in the other! And he'd come from Pitt Head which is probably about 100 kms from here. But he was happy and upbeat. I suggested when he got home that he should think about everything he took out of the pack...did he use it? how often? could something else have done double duty?

Got into Havelock, a coastal town, about 4:30 and the hostel said it had tent sites and free wifi. Well, I'm in the backyard next to the picnic table and the free wifi was 30 min free...then $4 an hour. oh well...I did get all my devices charged and that was needed.

I'm lovin' being back on the road and camping. Plus it's much cooler here...at least today. Christmas Day broke a 78 year record hitting 90*! Today was probably in the high 60's. And overcast. Great biking weather, for sure!

December 28th
Hwy 6 east of Nelson
In a gravelly clearing sleeping on rocks and stinging nettle:)

After a delightful first day, the 2nd day started off with issues first thing. (This is BagLady's Travels and Torments, so I get to bitch some time:)). My credit union has charged its security access and I'm locked out. It requires a texted code to your cell phone but the format doesn't allow for international numbers. Because it said I only had to do this once to recognize my device I thought I was all set when I skyped my daughter, Avery, and had the code sent to her phone and then she relayed it to me and I entered it. IN! Done! Not so! It doesn't recognize devices, it recognizes your device on the same location. But every day I'm on a different wifi network. Gotta redo every time. So I skyped the credit union trying to see if there was a work around and my Internet time ran out. Prepaid wifi. Not free in NZ. Another gripe of mine. No resolution. I guess if I want to review my account I have to schedule a call to Avery in her evening and at the same time have wifi access myself. Banks are my biggest issue traveling. Enough said. Shuck all that negative energy.

Tough ride today. Hills. And all of Malaysia was pretty flat so I feel very out of shape. The first long climb I was going only feet before stopping and resting. Slow and steady. Best part was I guessed wrong at how long the climb was and I was at the top before I expected. Pleasant surprise.

Rain is the other issue today. Out came the umbrella:). But it was quite heavy at times.

Around 5 o'clock I started looking for a spot to camp. I had seen great locations earlier in the day, but now nothing seemed to be showing. I'm in the mountains. No roads off to the side. Only deep ditches. No farms. And a major climb before Nelson is expected so when I started climbing and the rain got heavier, I was concerned about having to set up a strange tent in the rain. Trying to keep things dry us always a challenge when the outside of everything is already wet.

Do I see a mountain road winding up the hillside? It's got to have an entrance somewhere. That might work. What? It's gated? Arrghh! But there are large openings in the gate. Maybe I can unload Blaze and slip her through. Lets wander around and see if there's a place to camp. Not the smoothest ground. Lots of rocks and stinging nettle. Sorta flat. Will stakes go in? I'll make them! Rain's letting up. Let's try it. Pull the panniers. Carry them over. Pull all the flags and other paraphernalia had haul it to the "campsite". Lift Blaze's front wheels through. The seat's to high. Quick release and drop it back. There. She's through. That wasn't too bad. Now lets see about the tent. Rocks everywhere. Weeds. Thorns. Borrowed tent. Gotta take care. Tyvek dropcloth will protect. Stomp the weeds. Pound in the stakes with a rock. Barely go in. Get it up. Get inside with all wet panniers. Water everywhere. This tent is adorable and a backpacking model I love (Henry Shire's Rainbow Tarptent) but its smaller than the 2 person Big Sky tent I used in Europe last summer so there's less space for all the wet gear. And now that I'm inside, it's all cockeyed and not well set up. If it stops raining I'll try to fix it.

Dry off. Change clothes. Dry tent floor. Man, this has got to be the worst site I've ever had. Lumpy. Downhill. Wet clothes everywhere. And last night it looked so orderly. I'm out of control.

But dinner was good. Started with sips of wine. Yes! Moa's family gave me this great bottle of wine for Christmas that came in a plastic screw top bottle! Just made for hiker bikers! Definitely a treat after today. Then I had pâté on crackers. Yup! Can't come to NZ and not eat the meat! I've been enjoying it immensely!! And Nutella for dessert. Good thing I didn't plan on cooking tonight because the rain us not letting up.

As awkward as this spot is, I don't think anyone will see me and tell me to move. And I always manage to sleep somehow. The only thing I'm missing is a book. I left the heavy one I was carrying behind and the ones I thought I had downloaded to my iPhone don't seem to really reside on it. They seem to need Internet to come up. Guess ill have to listen to my audiobook tonight.

Oh, ya, the scenery...amazing! Steep, pointing mountains, lush hillsides, sheep, cows, and fast drivers coming awfully close. Can't say I wasn't warned. And I wear my helmet except when I'm climbing and just can't take the extra heat from it. We'll see if that argument holds with a cop:)

Tents leaking from one spot. Oh! Oh! Seems to be on a seam. I have sealer with me. Maybe I can seal it if I can mark it somehow. Hmmm.

Enough babbling. I've bored everyone I'm sure. Easy to tell when I'm alone, isn't it!

G'day...G'night...

BagLady




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Christmas Down Under

Christmas Eve, 2012
Wellington, New Zealand



Moa and me.


Kiwi and me.

I have been a bit amiss in writing my blog since I landed in New Zealand. Been busy! Been recuperating! Been socializing! Been relaxing. Been sightseeing. Been Xmas shopping, just a wee bit. Been reading books of local celebs. Been learning the mass transit system. Been doing laundry. Been collecting camping gear (since I arrived with little). Been learning the lay of the land. Been making reservations. Been meeting new people. Been hosted. Been roasted. Been hiking. Been biking (not much).

And I haven't left Wellington yet:)

After 4 fun filled days with Moa and Prue, eating wonderful food, running errands for equipment, joining holiday parties, and touring the local countryside...I moved over to Kiwi and Alison's house nearby. And again, great food, holiday parties, and tours of the countryside. It's been most fun catching up with Kiwi and Moa, reminiscing days on the PCT and hearing about the things they're doing now. And then to meet their wives was just wonderful. Two of the most delightful women you'd ever want to know. These guys done good:) I've never felt more at home and welcome...like part of the family. Thank you, Prue and Alison for all you two have done to make me feel comfortable and not a burden (even if I have been:))



Prue.



Kiwi and Alison.

They have this unbelievable native preserve that a friend of Alison's (that I met the other night) took me to. Zealandia. There was a natural area of regrowth with native plants around 2 dams and a decision was made to fence it in and remove all predators, like possums and mice and feral cats. And they've done it. And the bird population all over Wellington has dramatically increased. And we're not talking about a small area...over 500 acres!

Wellington is the cutest city. It's in a bowl that faces the sea, of course. And the roads are steep...so are people's driveways. It's not a town for cyclist unless you love hills. The houses are all different designs, built into the hillside, with lots of windows! Some are old and some are new and I love them all.

And, for all those friends who think I'm weird for leaving my front door open with no screen door...it's common practice here. I just live in the wrong place!

And the city is vibrant and clean and a joy to walk through. Mass transit by bus or train. Te Papa, the Museum of New Zealand is free! The modern buildings and walkways and gathering places near the water are all beautifully and interesting,y designed. A small city. Easy to get to and then get around with parks all around. I can see why people love this place.


Christmas Day



Christmas here is a day ahead of the US so that seemed a bit odd. After a quiet morning at "home" that always passes too quickly, Moa picked me up to join him and his family in their Christmas afternoon: picnic at the botanical gardens including improvised cricket, resting back at the house on the hottest Christmas since 1934...90*!, and then a scrumptious dinner of roast lamb and pork and ham. Yum! We had Christmas Crackers...and you don't eat them!...exchanged trinket gifts that were fun to play with...and had a cherry spitting contest! Quite the day of fun with a wonderfully loving family. Really a treat for me! Thanks to all for a merry Christmas!



Boxing Day. December 26th

Last day in Wellington for a month. Tidied up the Craig's house, packed up Blaze, called my daughters to wish them a Merry Christmas, and pedaled over to Moa and Prue's for a last afternoon and meal before launching off to the South Island. I felt so at home there, like part of the family. And I feel truly recuperated and prepared for this journey. Got my camping gear, guides, maps, food, and new hi viz pannier covers! Doing good!

I'm on the ferry right now and it's a foggy rainy night. Sure hope my return crossing is on a clear sunny day so I can enjoy the views. Not so tonight. Might as well catch a bit of shut eye. Tonight I land at and hope to camp right in town at a park.

I've had to prepare myself to be "self-contained" for freedom camping here, as they call it. No waste deposited. Scoop the poop. We do it for dogs, why not for humans. That's the plan, not to be disgusting. Hope I impress any officials who might stop me. Another rule is helmets required. Have to say I'm a bit frustrated by that one. And only for one reason: heat. Always an issue. And most heat is released through the top of the head. And I notice the challenge of staying cool wearing this darn thing. I don't think most people appreciate how awful it feels to be firing hot flashes. I feel sick. My cheeks burn. I want to rip my clothes off. It's awful. And doing anything to lower my body temperature feels like life or death. So that's why when I'm already warm and I'm exerting creating heat and the helmet is holding heat in my head and when I lift it I feel a touch of cool, then I want to rip it off. Can you understand just a bit better the dilemma I'm in? Just a bit. It's not a minor issue. It's major!

G'day


Kathryn

My Blog: www.thebaglady07.blogspot.com

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BagLady

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