The Chatsworth House

Wednesday, July 4th....!@#$!@#$ fireworks!
Dunston Hall, England
less rain, more sun

Tomorrow Sheffield! The Post Office for my battery pack, The Mossbrook School for some history, and the Mossbrook Inn for my free night...or free meal...or free coffee:)

Today was the Chatsworth House, home of the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire. It was incredible!! Like visiting the Louvre in many ways. But before I got there, I turned off the main road thinking I was going to some stables and met a fascinating man that used to work on the estate and is able to rent one of the "cottages" that are over the hill. And these cottages are stone McMansions. Blaze often is the instigation for conversation. He even gave me an idea for when I have to push her, how I can steer the front. He suggested using something stiff attached to the handlebar and I came up with my umbrella. Think it just might work.



So at the House, I did the full tour. I've learned that they are often worth the extra $$$ but I think here I should have passed it up. They had leaflets in most rooms with the same information she was sharing and she seemed to be running through the place leaving no time for us to look around after she gave her spiel. Then I took some time to tour the gardens which were unlike anything I've seen back home. Many different kinds of gardens, but my 2 favs were the rock garden with these enormous balanced rocks and the maze that many of us had a challenge figuring out.






Tonight I had a heck of time finding my camping spot. Nothing seemed right. EIther the grass was too long, too wet, too near the road, too public. Have faith. It will show up. And just when I pulled over to check out a wide shoulder, there it was: a grassy patch next to a garden center. Don't really know what it is. Folks have driven by, down the lane. Nobody's stopped to chat or ask me what I'm doing. Sometimes folks act like people camp in my places all the time.

It's been a wonderfully sunny evening, but there are threatening clouds on the horizon. Just enjoy it while it lasts.

We'll see what tomorrow brings!

BagLady


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

"Now I've Seen It All!"

Tuesday, July 3rd
Rowsley, England
Bet you can guess the weather:)

9 am Uncomfortable night's sleep indoors on a sagging old bed. Give me the earth any old day! But packing up was easier:).

And now I sit at an outdoor cafe having my morning latte watching the skies darken. But it's not raining right now:). Weather report is for light showers later.

I think a lot about traveling alone vs traveling with a partner. I get to do what I want but I don't have the interaction and laughter. I observe, like looking through windows into others lives. Where are they going as they pass by? What's their life like? Are they happy? Where am I going? What's my life like? Am I happy?



Deep, huh?!! I have a lot of time to think. Some have said that my journal entries are really long. This is my connection. These are my thoughts and memories. If I don't write it down, it will be lost. Perhaps I need to make an Executive Summary at the beginning if each journal entry:). What would you want it to include? I'm not reporting miles any more because I don't care. Don't worry, they're not very many anyways:).

7 pm What an incredible ride today! Following a cycle maps route and not following it because the roads weren't marked. Figuring out where I am is a puzzle that I'm enjoying. Even when I go miles out of my way. The scenery is so beautiful - reminds me of Wales here in the Peak District. But I did manage to get on a road that was so steep and muddy I had to...had to... push Blaze up several hundred yards. Didn't think it was possible, but ya do what you have to do. And I did it the same way I climb steep hills: push...rest...push...rest. I almost lost here though. If I didn't brace her panniers with my leg when we stopped (I couldn't reach the hand brakes from where I was) she'd start to roll backwards and we're talking STEEP!



The hard part is steering her from back there. I can't wait until she responds to voice commands. But we made it! My legs are feeling so so strong. And when people say (like they did today) "oh, there's a steep one ahead", I just smile and say "we can do it"! I think it's really easier to climb those steep ones on Blaze - slower, but easier.

The villages I went through we're so different than anything I've seen yet.



Houses built like stone castles right on the roadway all clustered together with no shops. They looked medieval. And they all seemed to be down a steep hill to get to them. Perhaps to be built near water.

I pedaled and I smiled. I think one thing that helps is listening to audiobooks while cycling. It helps keep my busy mind busy. I'm listening to "Just Don't Fall" by Josh Sundquist, a Paralympic Skier. He's a very talented writer in this autobiography. I love his view of life when he was young - precious!

Camped in a parish rec site tonight. And got set up before the rain got heavier. The misty stuff is pleasant to cycle in and totally tolerable. Got it down! After I was set up a gent stopped by. I thought because I was here. Nope. He stopped by to do some training with his agility dog. Another interesting happening! I watched them work asking tons of questions. Jack is only 18 months old and been doing it for just 12 weeks. He was working on his jumps and weaves. The energy in that dog was palpable.


Ok. Getting long again. I'm off to read.

Quote of the Day: "Now I've seen it all!", said by a cyclist passing me on the road with my umbrella up:)

Hugs y'all. BagLady



- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Monkeys? Really???

Monday, July 2nd
(or Nov 2nd. Hard to tell by the weather)
Ashbourne, England



First was the monkeys. Little ones. Cute ones. I stopped to check out a garden structure not realizing it held monkeys. Got video but no pics. Sorry.

Then just rain. Mist. All day. And I was trying to go on back roads which meant at every intersection I needed to look at my map app. Confusing but idyllic roads.

What I've noticed most about the architecture over here is chimneys. Lots of them on a house. Big ones. Really tall. Reminds me of Mary Poppins when I see them:)


But as the day wore on and I realized I really wanted to be dry, the idea of staying in a hostel (or something cheap) began to grow. And it made it easier to tolerate the rain because I saw an escape! Get to Ashbourne. And I did by late afternoon. And the Tourist Office suggested this pub. Price was in my range -25 pounds (about $37). I'll take it! By the time I showered and cleaned my gear, all the shops had closed. 5 pm the streets are rolled up. Have to browse them tomorrow.



Dinner of mushroom and leek pie with peas and chips and bread and butter pudding for dessert.



Yum! I've blown my budget today eating out twice and getting a room!! But in 5 weeks this is my 5th night inside. And it's been the rainiest June in over 100 years! Guess I've earned it!

BagLady


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Rugby, My New Favorite Sport

Sunday, July 1st
really? really? what a cold start to July...brrr!!! but the evening has brought sunshine so not so bad...especially now that the gail-force wind has died down.

Moddershall, England



I found myself in the middle of the biking stage of a triathalon this morning:) Some thought I was actually competing!!!



Then I explored Isaak Walton ("The Compleat Angler" author)'s cottage and met the nicest women. I'm going to make a stab at their names, but forgive me and correct when I remember them wrong...Dorothy and Julianne. Not even close, am I? I usually write names down as soon as I depart so that I'll remember them for my evening journal, but I forgot to do it this time. Darn. The cottage was adorable with a rebuilt thatched roof too and gardens all about. And "Dorothy" was a wealth of knowledge about researching geneology to aromatic oils for arthritis. And talk about timing...this cottage is only open Sundays from 1-4 pm and I arrived on Sunday at 12:45! What luck! Beats arriving in Lampeter for the quilt exhibit a half hour late and the the gallery was closed for the next two days. Things are looking up.



Took this picture of Blaze today...I really do look the part of a bag lady:)

I have the sounds of a rugby match playing in the background by a group of Indians...interesting accent that is:) I pulled in here during a match and asked about staying. None of them are club members, the just have the key to the gate which they have to lock when they leave. "Go ahead and stay and chuck your bike over the gate in the morning." My bike isn't chuckable! Let me see if I can find an opening in the fence to get through. And I did...a gap in the hedge row. Blaze jumped a ditch getting in so I'm sure she can jump again in the morning.

About 60 miles to go to Sheffield but there's lots to see between here and there so, I'll be taking my sweet time. "Dorothy" gave me ideas of how to research Mossbrook in local records in the area, so I'll see what happens.

Ya know how in Rochester we say "if you don't like the weather, wait a minute it will change"? Well, here they say it...and mean it! I've never...NEVER...seen weather change so quickly from cold to hot, wet to dry, calm to windy and that's all in the same half hour! I never know what to put on to start the day or what to wear during the day. Whatever I have on is not right for the weather of the moment. I'd laugh about it if it wasn't so annoying.

A Tuckered BagLady


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Learning to Dance in the Rain

Saturday, June 30th
Newport, England
Rain, sun, rain, sun, wind, clouds, rain, sun...well, you get the picture:) and temps 50's, I'd guess because I never took off my jacket

My morning started when I heard the tractor mowing the rigby field where I was camped. What time is it?!! 9 am?!! I need to get out of here! So I packed up quickly, lucky that he was mowing another field, not mine, waved to the driver, and left. A mile up the road there was an Abbey... Haughmond Abbey. It was rather spectacular.



Why do these ancient ruins impress me so? I'm amazed in the effort to construct them. I'm amazed in the design. I'm amazed they're still standing over 600 + years later. What structures of today's building will be around 600 years from now? Anything?

That and the weather were today's highlights. I enjoyed the town of Newport, but was busy doing my usual town chores: wifi and eating. Had a Cornwall Pasty today. They're like a croissant with a filling. They were how the wives sent lunch with their husbands who were miners: last night's dinner cooked up in pastry - half dinner, half jam for dessert. I missed having them last summer in Michigan but I think it's the same thing (right Bluebearee?).

Funny sign today:



Since Fuat left I've been kidding when asked how long I will I cycle for? Either a year or until the end of the month...we'll see. Well, month's end has come and I'm still out here! This is similar to hiking a long trail in so many ways, but without the trail family. Friends I make I have to leave behind. And I get up each day and do it all over again: same thing, new road. It sounds so romantic when you read about it.

Tonight's campsite is the side of a farmer's field of hay. I don't think I'll be hassled here. I got set up between downpours... that's the tricky part of traveling through rain. I now appreciate how the class of '03 (the rainy year) of the AT (Appalachian Trail, for new readers who might not know)...how they coped and stayed with it. You learn tricks to keeping your dry stuff dry...and a little water isn't the end of the world. Bedroll and fleece jacket is in a dry sac that does not get opened in the rain - no matter what. The tent gets dried as best as possible in morning and works okay even when damp. The critical part to keep dry is the inside of the floor. Fold it in on itself to protect that surface. Even in it's sack on the back of my bike all day in the rain, it's dry enough when I get to set up. That surprised me!

Then during the day, keep the body warm even when wet and I'm happy. That's when my umbrella comes in ever so handy...and my new coat. I'm glad I persisted and found peace with the rain. Maybe even enjoying it.

Got a story to tell. The other day as I was saying goodbye to the Hall Family and they were getting loaded on their bikes, the skies opened up with a cloud burst. Lyra, the 4 yr old, was on the back of her mom's tandem already so I grabbed her down and nestled her under an eave with me to stay as dry as possible. "Why am I under here?" So you don't get any wetter, says I. "But I love the rain!" as she proceeds to run out into the heaviest of the downpour dancing in the puddles! Dance on, Lyra...and teach us all to "dance in the rain"!

And I think what I miss about being around children and old folks is the wisdom they have to teach those of us in the middle:)
You just have to be patient enough to listen.

Oh, ya, the observation of the day: Welsh houses are made of stone and English are made of brick. And many of the old homes are really large. I counted one with 6 chimneys today. This area isn't as I imagined England to be. Where are those quaint thatched roof cottages?

Doing more backroads tomorrow now that the land has gotten flatter and I won't be surprised by a 25% grade hill. I've been worried about that. The green, red, and even yellow roads have been so, so busy. Even the boackroad I took tonight has more traffic than I like on it. England is a busy place:)

My favorite flower is a poppy, I think and I found them growing wild along the side of the roads here. Beautiful!


Popping BagLady

p.s. wanna see one of the first modern houses I've seen here?



- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Beware of Journal Dates

Watch out for the dates. My posts got out of order when uploading I'm afraid.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Snowdonia National Park

Thursday, June 28th
Somewhere in Snowdonia National Park
Morning rain, afternoon sun. Getting to be a theme., thank goodness.

"Do you want to take a shower?"
"Are you kidding?"
"No, while the we're down having breakfast, make yourself at home."
"Do I smell that bad?" I joked:)

Thank you Talbot-Halls for the delectable shower and delicious breakfast and enriching company. I sure hope our paths cross again, some time, some place:)

I thoroughly enjoyed my time with this young family (ya, that was Emma who came over to my tent this morning with the offer). We had so much to share: similar interests and similar parenting ideas. And the girls...the girls. They came over to my tent this morning and figured out how to turn on my iPhones. I did not teach them any of the games, though!



"Strange place to camp" said a woman walking her dog this morning as I was packing up.
"This is where we bring the dogs for their walks!" Oh!!! That's the smell! They seem to be scooping the poop though as I didn't see any of that.:)

So after a cloud burst in which Lyra danced in the rain, stomping in the puddles, they were finally off to the beach. I wish I could upload the video I took of them leaving with Lyra waving goodbye from the back. Priceless.

Then I returned to the cafe because I finally had WIFI! As I was sitting outside at the cafe, the jeweler who repaired my mother's silver and turquoise bracelet clasp yesterday (even though his sign said "no alterations or repairs") stopped by, recognizing me. I told him I didn't manage to get out town yesterday, but I would today:) Love that small town feeling:)

What an incredible afternoon ride up into the Snowdonia National Park. The slopes on this high hills is vertical. I know my pics won't do it justice, but I took them just the same. Lush, idyllic countryside with steep, steep large hills. No mountains here, by my estimation. And the road (a green road - major) was delightfully graded. I met some young girls touring as I left town this morning and gave them some info about the route since they were heading south...and they said they'd taken a cycle path and found it incredibly steep. Scares me. I'll stick to roads. Can always hitch, if need be:)



Fanciest bathroom I've been in in awhile! Cloth hand towels, oh my!

Here's the inn the bathroom was in:



And, as usual, I didn't take any pictures with my phone of the countryside. Let me see if I can take a pic of a pic for ya'll.



Tonight's campsite is a nook off the main road in the woods where the owner has started to cut some of the wood. I know because he stopped when going by and seeing my tent.

"I hope this is all right that I'm camping here. Yes, just one night. I'll be gone in the morning. Thanks ever so much!"

Too bad it's a busy road and quite noisy, but that will calm down as the evening wears on and pick up early in the morning. Can't have everything. It's sunny out right now even though I'm in the woods. I can see it through the trees and that's good enough for me!

Off to start a new book that won the Book of the Year, British Book Awards. "man and boy" by tony parsons. One review said, "I cried five times and laughed out loud four." Sounds like my kind of book.

And that's all the news from the BagLady encampment.



BagLady

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Loitering, Lingering, and Lolly-gagging

Tuesday June 26th
Machynlleth, Wales (and don't ask me to pronounce it!)
Rain...what else? Yesterday was an anomoly - however that's spelled...


Worse campsite yet. It was getting late and I was getting desperate and it was raining and a big town was coming up. I'm right by a major road but back off yet in plain view and near all the road noise. Shut up in my tent with new lines strung above to dry things overnight and gear out each door...this place looks trashed. Amazing how all this gets packed up and fits on Blaze in a fairly orderly and consistent way.

New lost item: headlamp. Haven't needed here because I'm asleep before the sun sets, but the last time I remember using it was at the hostel in Bantry. Haven't seen it since and couldn't find it this morning. Backup is the headlight on Blaze since it's not getting any use on her.

Late, late start this morning. I do not even begin to pack up if it's raining. Nope. It's my rule. So this morning I didn't start until 11 am! I slept late, made coffee, read, slept some more...and awoke to silence. Ah, I love this pace. How slow can I go?

(There's a song playing on my iPod that is bringing tears to my eyes. I have a memory of Dana dancing with me in the kitchen to it and I cried then...too... Top of the World - Dixiie Chicks... I loved being their mom more than anything I've done in my life and so miss having them around all the time. But alas, they have lives of their own and I'm free to wander the world...)

ok, I digress...back to Wales and rain and ...

I was biking along the coast with the most spectacular scenery: green rolling pastures dotted with little white sheep, old stone houses with rosebushes winding up the sides, ancient cemeteries and churches, and off in the distance was the Irish Sea.

Also saw a sign for the steepest grade yet.



I'm sure glad I was going downhill. I do not even think I could have pedaled up that hill. I would have had to hitch a ride for the both of us.

Borth where I got lunch a wifi (not free) is a beach town, but today was not a beach day. Grey, overcast, and drizzling. But it had it's own essence to it and I enjoyed it just the same.

Then I pulled onto a "green" road. They're the largest roads on my Wales map. Lots of cars. No choice. Got to use them to get across the mountains. That's what the next couple of days brings. Today I had to cycle through road construction while it was raining. Oh, the cheers I got from the construction crew pedaling along with my silver umbrella up was priceless! Even some drivers gave me cheery beeps. LIfts my spirits immensely. So the next time you see a loaded cyclist, signal to her: thumbs up, a wave, or a cheery beep. It will make her day! Some days it's the energy of others that pushes us through.

I managed to have a successful day of loitering, lingering, and lolly-gagging around. Dropped the guilt and traveled to my inner voice. Great day even with the rain and the lousy camping spot and the car traffic (which is dimming as rush hour has passed).

My thumbs seem to be holding up as long as I don't do any writing. Tonight I did some postcards and holding a pen really irritates them...well, the right one. Not taking anything for them because I don't know what causes that skin reaction and I don't want anymore of it.

Enought babbling. I figured out I write at night for the company, so thanks for spending the evening with me.

BagLady


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Teenage Hooligans!

Friday, June 29th (2012...for when I'm reading this years from now and wonder...)
Shrewsbury, England
Rain in am...sun in pm...

9 pm. Late night for me to be starting my journal. Got lost in Shrewsbury and was going in circles, I found out. Thanks, Sam...for trying to orientate me:) I did finally - after another asking down the road and cycling down a one way with folks yelling at me, like I didn't know it...did finally find the road I wanted.

A kid, Ben, also tried to help me but I didn't believe he knew enough and my problem is explaining where I want to go: the yellow roadl, not the green or the red.

I'm camped in a clearing behind a sports complex...kinda in the bushes because I didn't want to be on the beautiful grass. It's sort of trail back through here that has been recently weed-whacked. Again, I'm in the dog walking area! Me and the dogs fighting for turf! This woman tried to walk down the path and was weaving around my tent. I apologized for being in her way and said I didn't want to camp on the sports fields. She said they'd probably arrest me! Well, maybe I'd get another shower! I know it's going to be much harder finding places as it gets more congested. I'll just have to play it by ear. (Another dog just waddled by:))

Did a lot of cycling today and got to another country: England. Feels different than Wales and different than Ireland. It's a bit more worn around the edges, but the people have been as terrific as ever.

Just when I crossed over the border...and you don't know when that happens without consulting a map...I came across "Hill Climb". What's this? I was needing a distraction anyways, so I pulled into this incredible park. Turns out it used to be part of some Lord's estate and now the 300+ walled acres just contains mostly deer and woodlands...and this 1 mile, twisty, turny, paved, one-lane race course for cars.



They are timed as to how fast they can navigate the climb and there are different classes for the different types of cars all the way up to Formula 1 cars. The record was something like 43 seconds. The guy let me walk part of the course. Pretty cool. Obviously it takes some definite good driving skills! Has anyone ever seen something like this in the States? Not I.




Not all chews are good. I'm suffering with today's purchase which is sticky too much to my teeth...annoying! Got to have at least one torment!

It's about 100 miles to Sheffield. I planned out a route today on my map app. It's so hard to get it to give me the backroads. I have to keep putting in way points of little towns on the roads that I want to take. There's more than one way to skin a cat.

Well, this may have been a bad place to camp. Some guys just came by and slapped my tent. I stuck my head out to let him know that a woma
}"@:>@
>>>>*@#

10 pm. I had to pack up and move. Even though it was after 9 and I was all comfy in my tent, those boys were gonna be trouble. They pulled the cover off of Blaze and ran with it laughing. I don't feel safe. They were too brazen and they were drinking and it's Friday night. That was the fastest packing job I've ever done. It was dark due to heavy clouds and threatening rain again! Half hour later I'm camped a mile down the road in the side field of a Rugby Club. Hope they aren't earlier risers. Maybe I'll get to see them play. I'm in the country now and although I can hear the city noise, it's further away. Well, that was a first! As I left, I noticed it was across from an apartment complex. Not good. Teenagers are the worst. I hope my British experience improves. It's not off to a good start:(

Oh, before I forget. In Wales (and maybe here) you have to pay about 8 cents for a plastic bag at the grocery store. It's the law. And they say it has reduced bag requests about 80%. Didn't they do that in LA? My problem is I use those bags for garbage. I'll have to remember to get bags in produce for garbage.

Goodnight. Sweet dreams!

BagLady


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Emma, Ben, Lyra, and Sylvie

Wednesday, June 27th
Machynlleth, Wales
Rainy morning, sunny afternoon

Yup, same town, other end. This going slow is most enjoyable! Opportunities to do other things and share connections. Guilt free.

Lots of honks for me this morning from the many cars passing my spot by the roundabout. And all they could see was a soggy tent and soggy bike cover through the mist. Sure made me feel welcome. Since I was so close to town, packing up wasn't as difficult because I knew where I was getting breakfast! And when I got to town: market day! The street was lined with vendors. My lucky day! Found a veggie cafe and got scrambled eggs and toast and my latte...trying to hook up to wifi, when in comes a young family.
"We love your bike!"
"Are you touring too?"
"Yes with the 2 girls!"
"Please join me!"



So that's how this day begain. Ben and Emma, Lyra and Sylvie live in England and are biking to friends' house for holiday. They've been on the road for 4 days, camping too. Their daughters are 4 and 2. What brave young parents! They ride with Lyra on the back of a tandem and Sylvie in a trailer. Then after breakfast, some great info on the best route to Sheffield, and goodbyes, we went our separate ways. Small town. I kept running into them. They decided to get a room and go to the Center for Alternative Technology this afternoon which was just outside of town. May I join you?

Then after lunch we met up and cycled there. Fascinating place they started in a quarry 40+ years ago by local hippies, exploring sustainable building, heating, and growing methods. Now it's the largest alternative energy research and education center in Europe. This is something I have a strong interest in and know I need to find a way to do it. It feels right! The "where" is still a big question.

I had such fun. Lyra wanted me to sit beside her. What an honor that is! And later tonight after our pizza picnic in the hotel courtyard, while Lyra had mommy time, Ben, Sylvie and I went to check out the camping site Ben had found for me. Sylvie, who previously had not really acknowledged me, played tag with me. And she's fast! The smiles, the giggles, happiness is...

In the morning, we'll have our goodbyes, but I so enjoyed today and their energy, patience with their daughters, and interest in a sustainable future. A fascinating couple! Thank you, Universe!!! You done good!

Oh, and they introduced me a drink I really liked: lemonade and beer. (Although I think the lemonade was more like Sprite.) It's called a Shandy. Now that I can drink! Makes beer actually tasty:)

BagLady






- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone